Sanabria: Paradise in No-Man’s Land

anabria is both privileged and condemned by its geography S and its history. A forgotten region, it has been both feared and coveted by its neighbors, who have ever had designs on conquest. Similar customs, myths, superstitions, and legends, and PUEBLA DE shared surroundings, mixed together in Sanabria to create an indefinite yet determined race. Perhaps more than anything else, SANABRIA Sanabria is a special way of living and being... and of resisting. And Its Parador It is very likely that its special geographical location was why the Sanabria of yesterday remained an attractive oversight of the past, and unjustly so. Sanabria is a natural reserve that has fostered many forms of life and ways of behavior.

It is not by chance that Sanabria continues to be a paradise lost, but one that has finally been found and regained. Regions such as Aliste and Sayago, together with Sanabria, continue to offer a wealth of opportunities to admire and study rural anthropology.

Nearby Portugal has been in an intermittent state of war throughout history. One such time was during the reign of Juan I at the end of the 14th century, shortly before the reign of the Queen of Castile, Isabel, I. Prolonged confrontations were also waged after the annexation of the kingdom of Portugal by Felipe II, a decision that would keep the two nations in painful check, as in a chess game, for nearly three decades (1640-1668). Many other events have taken place here over the years, including smuggling, as recently as the 1950's. The brave leader Viriato insisted, but to no avail, on having been born in these lands, even though this was not confirmed by history.

The province aspires to have been the ancient and mythical Numancia, or the site of the famous siege of Zamora by Sancho II in his murderous desire to win the coveted town from his own sister, Doña Urraca. And many other boastful stories have been told, many of them dismantled by the realism of recent historical research.

Literature has also found its home among Sanabria's landscapes, in which the ingenious knight errant Don Quixote lived adventures and misfortunes, according to recent research done by Mr. Leandro Rodríguez.

All of this, against the backdrop of truly unique surroundings –apparently gentle, but harsh as well. This is a landscape of holly oaks and rocky ground embraced by rivers and streams. The Tera River flows by on one side, and the peaks tower over the region, protectively. This is the most rugged area of Zamora, one which rises to an altitude of over 2000 meters and stretches out towards the lovely lands of Galicia.

The rivers of the area bestow their waters on numerous species of trees, including chestnuts and carballos, as oaks are called here. Many other species can be found in the fields and on the hillsides.

Numerous springs and streams dot the region's highest points, while its many lakes hoard the waters that arrive with Spring.

PUEBLA DE SANABRIA AND ITS PARADOR 1 A Place of Legends and Miracles

F or those travelers who are unaware, or who have forgotten, ground, as the village would be covered by water. And so it was: he we would remind them that this is a land of magic, spells, stuck his staff in the ground and said: and legends. Some believe, and others do not, but most people feel respect, if not fear, for such tales. The town's origins date back to the "Here I plant my staff time of the Reconquest, when the need arose to repopulate these areas here a spring is born which had been devastated by war. But Sanabria has other origins as here I plant my sword well. here a stream of water is born"

The Parador, built in 1945, is perched like a balcony over this And so the entire village was covered by water, except for the oven, beautiful town, whose existence was first recorded in the Council of which became an island that can still be seen today. All the Lugo of 569. inhabitants of Sanabria know that if they are in God's favor, they will 's houses, with their slate roofs, are reminiscent hear the bells of the submerged church of Villaverde de Lucerna ring of Galicia and León, and are watched over by the well preserved, but early in the morning on the day of San Juan. This is the story of this somber, 15th century castle. The town is definitely worth a visit. miraculous lake, which even Unamuno wrote about:

Visitors are strongly recommended to spend some time walking "Submerged bell tower around the lake and the villages on its banks before undertaking more of Valverde de Lucerna adventurous excursions. the sound of eternal agony beneath the waters of oblivion..." The village of Mercado del Puente (literally, "Bridge Market") is just a few minutes from the Parador on the way to the lake. The The walk continues in the same ambience of curses and name comes from its superb medieval bridge and the Monday market mysteries. We soon come across a group of white houses that appear that attracts many people from the Sanabria area.

The course of the Tera River leads into a spectacular glacial lake with crystalline waters. These mysterious waters have inspired many a story and legend, such as the one about the miraculous appearance of the Lake itself:

Many, many years ago, where the lake is today, there was a village called Villaverde de Lucerna. A beggar arrived one day asking for alms, but no one would help him except for two women cooking bread who took pity on him. They put some dough in the oven to bake for him, but the loaf grew so big that they could not get it out of the oven. The beggar, who was Jesus Christ himself, warned the women to escape to high

2 PUEBLA DE SANABRÍA AND ITS PARADOR incongruous in these surroundings. This is Ribadelago, built in church and other institutional lands), and what remains dates from the 16th 1959 after the original town was flooded when the dam in the and 18th centuries. mountains burst. Many of the locals claim that this was another punishment and warning to unbelievers and sinners. There are other villages, such as Pedrazales, and on the edge of the Park. Leaving behind legend, but not history, we reach San Martín de Castañeda, a Cistercian monastery of which there are records dating back to before the year 1000. It fell into ruin after the Desamortización (sale of

Adventures on Lakes, Rivers and Snow

here is much more to Sanabria than its impressive lake, and February. For less experienced riders, there are one-hour excursions T there are many opportunities to indulge in adventure sports, that follow the Tera River. leaving the car behind in favor of lungs and legs. Many places of ecological interest can be found in the area, including: Through the snows of La Plana. For lovers of snowy landscapes and hiking, there is a spectacular route that can be taken all year The Lake and Waterfalls in Sotillo. round. It starts from La Laguna de los Peces, continuing down to El The Source of the Tuela River. Chozo and then up to La Peña The Lakes of La Sierra de Cabrita, from where there is a Porto. magnificent view of the Trevincas La Forcadura. and Moncalvo Massifs. The climb Carambilla Canyon. continues up to El Alto de La Calabor Valley. Plana at an altitude of over 2000 Valley. meters, where one encounters a The San Martin Cave. polar landscape with snow dunes. The Trevincas Cirques. The full trip takes about 5 hours to complete. Ermines, wolves, golden eagles, and red-legged partridge all live Murias by bicycle. This is side-by-side in the high mountains probably one of the most beautiful among the juniper shrubs and trips in the area for mountain heather. The lower slopes are biking. The itinerary starts in covered with chestnuts, oaks, holly, Murias, and then continues on to and yew trees, providing shelter for Vigo de Sanabria. After crossing wild boar, deer, dormice, and mountain cats. The many rivers and the Forcadura River, we reach Pedrazales, from where there is an lakes are home to martens, polecats, and otters, as well as trout and excellent view over the Tera Valley. The trip takes about 3 hours. other fish. Through the Tera Canyon. This is a favorite mountain route that Sanabria can also offer the more methodical but active tourist a is both beautiful and spectacular. However, certain precautions must range of organized adventures. An introduction to some of the be taken and it is not recommended for children. It should only be programmed activities are listed below. More information is available attempted between May and October, as the ground can be very at the Centro de Interpretación (Interpretive Center) and the slippery at other times of the year. It is reached by road from San Castañeda Monastery. Martín de Castañeda to Chanos de Anta, where you can leave the car. Cross the stream and follow the path that leads through the oak Still water boating. An easy but fascinating trip in a boat or a woods and to the caves. The descent into the deep valley is gentle, canoe on the Tera River. From the Reservoir you can surrounded by pools, rocks and superb panoramas. At the end of the begin your excursion on this river, which has its source in one of the canyon there are beautiful pools and the Poza de Ninfas Waterfall. largest glacial lakes in . For fishing lovers, the season from mid- The trip takes around 5 hours. April to the end of July offers a unique opportunity to experience this age-old sport.

Horseback riding through Sanabria. There are many different routes for horseback riding. One option is to leave from the surprisingly lush area of Pedrazales, towards Limianos and Sotillo. This route ends at the base of hill that climbs 400 meters up to the site of the Sotillo Waterfall; the waterfall can only be reached on foot. This route cannot be taken during the period from December to

PUEBLA DE SANABRIA AND ITS PARADOR 3 Along Romanesque Banks, among Craftsmen

T he best route to approach the town is the road from Zamora. here in the 16th century. In any case, the Zamora-Sanabria trip, or vice versa, is highly recommended. Spectacular views, art, history, excellent The journey continues along the Negro River, famous for its trout, gastronomy, and crafts can be found along the road during a journey and then alongside , whose buildings hark of around an hour and half that is full of pleasant surprises. back to the times of the local nobility. These houses are a good example of the original architectural style of the area, with their slate The road out of Zamora crosses the so-called Tierras de Pan tiles and elegant balconies. (Bread Lands), a flat landscape of ochre and reddish soil. The next stop is , if only to admire the unusual The first point of call is Tábara, where there is a magnificent 12th Romanesque tower that overlooks the village. The church and tower century church. It is also said that the famous and influential were built at the beginning of the 13th century. Monastery of San Froilán was built here towards the end of the 10th century. At its height, there were some six hundred monks and Nearby, the Cernadilla Reservoir, fed by the waters of the Tera, nuns living here. This was also the home of the Mozarabic Saint of spreads out like an enormous mirror covering an area of 23 Tábara. Remains of the kilometers. Finally, we find Santa Maria Church, the unusual Requejada founded in 1132, still stand. area, dotted with numerous Nearby is Moreruela de villages and hamlets hidden Tábara, which has another away, out of the cold. The interesting Romanesque area is known for its church that was probably excellent crafts using ash also a monastery. Next, and alder woods. travelers will find themselves in the Carballeda region, prelude to nearby Sanabria.

Rionegro del Puente and the Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Carballeda, patron saint of the region, are also close by. The intrepid conqueror, Diego de Losada, founder of Caracas, the capital of Venezuela, was baptized

Towards Braganza: The Road of Contraband and Smugglers

nce O at the Parador, travelers have many other, no less interesting Having got this far, it's worth the extra effort to visit Braganza in trips to choose from. An excellent option is the road to the neighboring region of Tras Os Montes, where all sorts of bargains Calabor, where water again plays a starring role. Miraculous sulfur can be bought, in bronze and cloth. A wealth of true stories are also and mineral springs abound, whose waters have been popular since told here, mainly about curious or savage smuggling activity, the 18th century. depending on the case. If you are interested in learning more, ask how and where the lighter flints, tobacco, and coffee were taken across the The Raya de Portugal (Portuguese border) is to be found here, as border. Cars would be smuggled, unassembled, in order to be well as another frontier village, called Rihonor de Castilla in Spain reassembled on the other side, and there was also a trade in and Río de Onor in Portugal, which is on the road to Ungilde Portuguese laborers, who would be returned to their side of the border leading to Braganza. For centuries, the inhabitants have been so in the dead of night, totally disoriented, by Spanish truck drivers... confused about where the border falls, that languages and customs But times were different then. have also become confused.

4 PUEBLA DE SANABRÍA AND ITS PARADOR “Enjoy Hunger at the Tables of Sanabria”

This popular saying –"Enjoy hunger at the tables of meat and pig's ear, a good chunk of chorizo seasoned pork sausage, T Sanabria"– is true and easily confirmed by visitors, either and a few other things. here in the Parador, where excellent regional cuisine is offered, or in one of the many other places nearby offering meals or Or Sanabria-Style Octopus, made with slices of boiled octopus appetizers to share. dressed with plenty of garlic and just a pinch of hot paprika.

You can be sure that every dish served here will be made with Or, to whet the appetite, an appetizer of local Sanabrian ingredients produced locally, Sausages, Cheeses from Zamora either around the lakes or in the or a few pieces of local Cecina valleys or on the banks of any of (dry cured beef). the rivers...Or even in the land around at the base of the There are excellent game dishes mountains. Old recipes have been in season, such as turtledove, revived, even some that had been partridge, hare, rabbit, and quail. lost in the chasms or the At times, visitors can enjoy stews mountaintops of time. and sausages made with locally caught big game, or wild boar Sanabria produces most things cecina, for example. in abundance, and all are exquisite. All of these dishes will be accompanied by wines from the Visitors should ask for Tera River basin, with a local eau recommendations, and are likely de vie to finish. to be told to try such dishes as Los Habones, a hearty stew made with broad beans, pork

Parador de Puebla de Sanabria Avda. Lago de Sanabria, 18. 49300 Puebla de Sanabria (Zamora) Tel.: +34 980 62 00 01 - Fax: +34 980 62 03 51 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Text: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar

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