Manufacture of Leather

Manufacture of Leather By ALLEN ROGERS, Ph. D. PRATT INSTITUTE, BROOKLYN, N. Y. MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER Parts 1-3 393 Published by INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK COMPANY SCRANTON, PA. i\bl\o^U T6ns Manufacture of Leather, Parts 1. 2, and 3: Copyright, 1922, 1909, 1902, by Inter- national Textbook Company. Copyright in Great Britain All rights reserved Printed in U. S. A. ^ International Textbook Press Scranton, Pa. 80050 ; CONTENTS Note.—This book is made up of separate parts, or sections, as indicated by their titles, and the page numbers of each usually begin with 1. In this list of contents the titles of the parts are given in the order in which they appear in the book, and under each title is a full synopsis of the subjects treated. MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 1 Pages Heavy, or Firm, Leathers 1-45 Intoduction 1- 3 Definitions and classification; Hide structure. Treatment of Hides 4-18 Soaking; Cold-sweat system; Warm-sweat system; Lim- ing; Unhairing and fleshing; Leidgen unhairing machine; Deliming; Plumping the hides. Sole-Leather Manufacture 19-45 Methods of tanning; Oak leather; Oiling and drying; Rolling; Treatment of the hides; Bleaching; Union leather; Quick sole-leather tannage. MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 2 Heavy, or Finn, Leathers— (Continued) 1-42 Sole-Leather Manufacture— (Continued) 1-3 Oak-tanned belting leather; Harness leather. Vegetable Tanning Materials 4—21 Classification of tannins; Wood and bark extracts ; Ott bark mill ; Williams' patent bark shredder ; Vat leach- ing. Analysis of Tanning Materials 22-35 Analysis of bark, wood, etc. ; Teas percolator extractor Determination of non-tannins ; Analysis of tanning extracts ; Analysis of tan liquors. Analysis of Leather 36-42 Determiation of moisture ; Determination of ash ; Deter- mination of oil ; Determination of nitrogen ; Determina- tion of water-soluble materials ; Determination of glucose. iv CONTENTS MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 3 Pages Limp, or Light, Leathers 1-54 Process of Manufacture 1 Automobile and Upholstering- Leathers. 2-0 Stoning jack; Splitting machines ; Daubing; Embossing. Bag, Case, and Strap Leather 10-17 Stuffing materials; Hand and drum stuffing; Fat-liquoring; Whitening. Side Leathers 18^20 Shoe, Glove, and Fancy Leather 21-27 Working out skins; Shaving; Staking; Seasoning; Sur- facing. Vegetable-Tanned Calfskins 27-29 Vegetable-Tanned Sheepskins 30-31. Hogskins ^^ Tawing • 32-34 Oil Tannage • 35-37 Chrome Tanning 38-48 Two-bath chrome-tanning process ; One-bath chrome- tanning process; Fat-liquoring; Box calf; Matt calf; Glazed kid ; Chrome patent leather. Dongola Leather 48-49 Leather Dyeing > 50-52 Measurement of Leather 52-54 MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER Serial 416A (PART 1) Edition 3 HEAVY, OR FIRM, LEATHERS INTRODUCTION 1. Definition and Classification.—The term leather is applied to the product obtained by the treatment of hides or skins of animals with certain reagents that convert the animal tissues into a tough, opaque, pliable, and fibrous substance which is not subject to putrefaction. 2. The pelts of animals come to the tanner in four con- ditions : green or market (fresh from the animal) ; green salted (when salt has been rubbed on the flesh and the skins placed in piles to cure) ; dry salted (same as green salted but after- wards allowed to dry) ; flint, or dry, hides (usually stretched and allowed to dry in the sun). According to their size, these pelts are divided into three general classes, namely, hides, kips, and skins. Hides comprise the coverings of larger animals such as the cow, horse, camel, and walrus. These are used for heavy leather manufacture such as shoe soles, machinery belting, harness, and other purposes where stiffness and strength are required. They are also often split for the pur- pose of producing shoe leather, bag, case, strap, automobile, and furniture leather. Kips are the undersized animals of the same species. Skins are obtained from small animals such as sheep, goats, and calves. Kips and skins are used in the COPYRIGHTED BY INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 2 MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 1 manufacture of light leather for shoe uppers, pocketbooks, bookbinding, gloves, and fancy articles. Both hides and skins are graded according to weight and imperfections, the latter being in the nature of cuts, brand marks, hair slips, and grubs. Diseased hides are some times found and are a source of great danger to the tanner. 3. Hides are obtained from the various slaughter houses over the country and are known as domestic, or native. They are also obtained from other parts of the world and are usually known by the name of the country from which they originate. hide: structure 4. Analysis of Skins.—At first glance, the pelts of various animals appear to have little in common. On closer examination, however, a very close similarity will be observed. In structure, all animal skin is made up of several readily defined layers. The skin is not merely a covering for the animal, but also serves as a container for nerves and secretive glands, and as a bed, or ground, for the hair, or fur. It is made up of two principal layers : the epidermis, or cuticle, and the corium, or tnie skin. These two layers are totally distinct in structure, origin, and functions. 5. The epidermis is a thin covering of the true skin and is entirely removed before the tanning operations begin. In life, the upper, or external, part is being constantly worn away, falling off in the form of dry scales. The interior part of the epidermis is made up of numerous living nucleated cells ; as the surface of this layer is reached, these cells become flattened and finally dry up and form the exterior part of the epidermis and ultimately drop off as dead scales. These cells, which renew the horny external tissue of the epidermis, are in turn renewed by vessels situated in the corium, or true skin. The epidermis does not combine with tannin and is therefore removed, laying bare the true skin, which is known to the tanner as the grain. ; MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 1 3 6. The corium, or true skin, is the skin with which the tanning agents combine to form leather. There is an inter- mediate albuminous layer between the corium and the epidermis. Both layers are composed of interlaced bundles of fiber running across and above one another and parallel to the surface of the skin. These fibers are surrounded by fluid matter, which serves to keep the skin in a moist and pliable condition. On removal of this fluid the fibers alone remain, and if dried by a gentle heat they assume a horny appearance and become in substance about one-third of the raw hide. The corium determines the quality of the leather that can be made from a hide. Its thickness, flexibility, and strength are reproduced in the leather. Between the fibers of the corium is an albuminous substance called coriin: in a dry state this holds and connects the fibers. The connective tissue of the corium gives form to the skin, the intercellular substance, coriin, lying between the fibers. When boiled with water, these connective tissue fibers form glue, losing their organized structure, and making a homo- geneous jelly. 7. The intercellular substance is probably a decomposition product of the connective tissue. This coriin is soluble in lime water and other alkaline solutions ; frequent treatment of the skin with these reagents withdraws fresh quantities of soluble matter with every treatment. This fact should be noted in connection with the liming of skins to remove the hair. Dilute inorganic acids swell the connective tissue. The swelling of the skin by acids is made use of to facilitate tanning it not only makes the skin more sensitive for the reception of the tanning material, but also effects the disintegration of the fiber bundles into individual fibers, thereby increasing the surface. 8. The under skin is made up of loose connective tissue, embedded in which are the sweat and fat glands, the blood vessels, and muscular fiber. Fig. 1 shows an enlarged micro- scopic transverse section of the skin in which the Malpighian net, or lower layer of the epidermis, is shown at d ; the corium, 4 MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 1 iat h ; the lobules of adipose tissue, at m ; the external orifices of the sweat glands, at a'', a hair folHcle, at 3/; a shaft of hair in the hair follicle, at ^ ; a hair papilla, at i. At / is illustrated the connective tissue of the under skin, showing the sweat glands a, with the ducts c, through which the sweat passes to the surface of the skin; at k is shown a hair bulb, and at e are shown openings of the seba- ceous glands. The horny outside layer of the epidermis h shows hair, as at f, or wool at different places. The Fig. 1 hair is not embedded immediately in the surface, but in the capsules, or sacs, being continuous with the epidermis and reaching down to the corium. TREATMENT OF HIDES 9. Some operations in the manufacture of leather are fol- lowed, with more or less variation, in all branches of the industry, and, to save repetition, these will be treated generally, variations being noted in descriptions of the tanning processes necessary for the production of specific kinds of leather. These variations are so numerous that it will be impossible to enumerate them all, but enough will be noted to indicate what latitude exists in the application of the general principles involved. 10. Soaking-.—Whatever may be the class of hide in use at the tannery, the first operation is that of soaking. MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, PART 1 5 This is always done by means of water, with or without the addition of chemicals.

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