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17633393.Pdf Auteur en uitgever hebben deze wereldwijzer met de grootst mogelijke zorgvuldigheid INHOUD samengesteld. De informatie is echter aan veranderingen onderhevig. Wij zouden het zeer op prijs stellen veranderingen, correcties en suggesties te ontvangen zodat deze in een volgende druk verwerkt kunnen worden. Auteur en uitgever aanvaarden geen enkele aansprakelijkheid voor de gevolgen van foutieve of gewijzigde informatie. Voor informatie en opmerkingen wat betreft reisboeken is het adres: Elmar, afdeling Reishandboeken, Delftweg 147, 2289 BD Rijswijk. E-mail: [email protected] Voorwoord 9 Kalamata Internet: http://www.uitgeverijelmar.nl (circa 80 km) 66 ACHTERGRONDEN 11 De opgravingen 68 Landschap 11 ROUTE 1A: Ligging 11 Thouria – Dirrachi – Klimaat en reistijd 13 Leptini – Neochori – Flora en fauna 14 Kalamata Het verleden 17 (circa 50 km) 69 Mythologie 17 ROUTE 1B: Beknopte geschiedenis Messini – Kefalinos – van de Peloponnesos 18 Kopanaki – Platania – De bevolking 24 Figalia – Sidirokastro – Vlag en volkslied 26 Kalo Nero Volksfeesten 27 (circa 75 km) 70 Taal en geloof 28 Pylos en noordelijk Iets over de inrichting van Pylos 72 van het kerkgebouw 30 ROUTE 2: Cultuur 32 Pylos – Korifasi – Literatuur 32 paleis van Nestor – Bouwkunst 33 Chora – Gargaliani – Romeinse periode 34 Filiatra – Christiani – Byzantijnse periode Chora – Pylos (324-1453) 34 (circa 85 km) Frankische en Alternatief: vanaf Filiatra Venetiaanse periode 37 langs de kust naar Economie 37 Marathopoli – Petrachori – Gialova – Pylos (circa 95 km) 72 PRAKTISCHE INFORMATIE 39 De eilanden in de baai van Van A tot Z 39 Navarino 75 Colofon Tishli-Baba 76 Helonaki 76 Wereldwijzer Peloponnesos is een uitgave van BEZIENSWAARDIGHEDEN 61 Noordelijk van Pylos 76 © Uitgeverij Elmar B.V., Rijswijk – 2009 Het zuidwesten 61 Schiereiland Messenia 81 Tekst: Henk Buma Kalamata en Antiek ROUTE 3: Fotografie: Henk Buma, Branco Cardoso e.a. Messini 64 Pylos – Methoni – Vormgeving omslag: Wil Immink, Sittard ROUTE 1: Finikounda – Koroni – Lay-out: Branco Cardoso Kalamata – Thouria – Aris – Longa – Petalidi – Kaarten: Grafisch Atelier Stenchlak, Tienhoven Eva – Valira – Mavromati – Rizomilos – Pylos Antiek Messini – Zerbisia – (circa 90 km) 81 ISBN 978 90389 18709 Meligalas – Meropi – WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 5 24-09-2008 09:34:30 6 PELOPONNESOS De Mani 88 Ag. Petros – Vourvoura – De Buiten-Mani 90 Tegea – Tripoli – ROUTE 4: Achladokambos – Kiveri – Kalamata – Areopoli – Astros – Ag. Andreas – Githio – Sparti – Leonidio Kalamata (circa 250 km) (circa 200 km) 90 Verkorting: Githio – Sparta 93 van Tripoli via Eleochori Sparta 94 naar Astros Bezienswaardigheden in (circa 175 km) 116 en om Sparta 94 De Argolida 121 Oriëntatie in Sparta 97 ROUTE 9: Sparta – Kalamata 98 Nafplio – Ligourio – De Binnen-Mani 103 Epidauros – Adami – ROUTE 5: Pelei – Karnezeika – Areopoli – Pirgos Dirou – Iria – Drepano – Paliros – Kokkala – Nafplio Kotronas – Passavas – (circa 90 km) 121 Githio Nafplio 121 (circa 100 km) 103 Epidauros 128 ROUTE 10: Het zuidoosten 108 Ligourio – Didima – ROUTE 6: Portoheli – Ermioni – Geraki – Vrontamas – Galatas – Skala – Molai – Palaia Epidauros – Monemvasia – Ligourio Limenas Geraka – (circa 160 km) 132 Richia – Metamorfosi – Molai – Apidia – Het noordoosten 137 Geraki ROUTE 11: (150 km) 109 Nafplio – Tiryns – Argos Geraki 109 – Mycene – Dervenakia – ROUTE 6A: Nemea – Korinthos – Verlenging: Isthmia – Epidauros – Richia – Paralia en/of Dimena – Arachneo – Monemvasia – Neapoli Ag. Triada – Nafplio (circa 70 km) 112 (circa 175 km) 137 ROUTE 7: Tiryns 138 Geraki – Ag. Dimitrios – Argos 140 Mari – Poulithra – Mycene 141 Leonidio – Kosmas – Nemea 147 Geraki De opgravingen van (circa 100 km) 114 Nemea 148 De oostkant van de Korinthos 149 Peloponnesos 116 Het moderne Korinthos 149 ROUTE 8: Isthmia 154 Leonidio – Tiros – Kustroute en het oude Ag. Andreas – Kastanitsa – Nemea 155 WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 6 24-09-2008 09:34:30 INHOUD 7 ROUTE 12: Krestena – Archea Korinthos – kustweg tot Olympia – (Linaria, Tripiti, Derveni – Rozena – Kallithea) of (Krestena, Evrostina – Mosia – Kallithea) – Andritsena Stymfalia – Galatas – (circa 100 km) 162 Nemea – Korinthos Archea Olympia 163 (circa 150 km) 155 Geschiedenis en mythe 164 Het woeste binnenland 158 De rouw van Kalavrita 172 ROUTE 13: ROUTE 15: Tripoli – Mantineia – Akrata – Trapeza – Levidi – Orchomenos – Kalavrita – Klitoria – Vlacherna – Vitina – Spilia – Likouria – (Langadia) – Dimitsana – Archea – Pheneos – (Lousios-kloof) – Seliana – Egira – Stemnitsa – Karitena – Akrata Megalopoli – (Likosoura, (circa 100 km) 172 Likeo) – Tripoli (circa 120 km) 158 Het noordwesten 177 Andritsena, Vasses en Patra (Patras) 177 Olympia 162 Rio 180 ROUTE 14: Egio 181 Karitena – Andritsena – Vasses – Kopanaki – Over de auteur 185 Perivolia – Nea Figalia – Register 186 Zacharo – afslag naar SPECIALE ONDERWERPEN Wie was Pelops? 13 Spartaanse wetten 95 De hyacint 14 De familie De Villehardouin 102 Myceense vendetta 19 De avonturen van Telephos 118 Thukydides 20 Helden in Nafplio 126 Beroemde opstandelingen- Polykleitos van Argos 131 leiders 23 De dood van Demosthenes 134 Griekse gastvrijheid 26 Theseus 135 Bedoeling en opzet van De Myceense beschaving 138 de Griekse tempel 34 Heinrich Schliemann Een kleine bierhistorie 45 (1822-1890) 142 Retsina 46 Het Kanaal van Korinthos 150 De Messeense oorlogen 66 Palaimon, godenzoon 154 De zeeslag in de baai van De Stymfalische vogels 157 Navarino, 1827 74 Rondom de berg Likeo 161 Het beleg van Sfaktiria 75 Het beeld van Zeus van Telemachos 77 Phidias 170 Modon 83 Dertien december 1943 174 Roemruchte Manioten 88 Het prinsdom Achaia 182 WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 7 24-09-2008 09:34:31 8 PELOPONNESOSLANDNAAM 9 OPGENOMEN KAARTEN Peloponnesos, ligging 10 Route 6 109 Peloponnesos, algemeen 12 Route 6A 112 Peloponnesos, fysisch 15 Route 7 114 Typen zuilen en kapitelen 35 Route 8 117 Peloponnesos, spoorwegen 58 Route 9 122 Peloponnesos, provincies Nafplio 124-125 en autoroutes 62 Epidauros 129 Peloponnesos, Route 10 133 bezienswaardigheden 63 Route 11 137 Kalamata 65 Burcht Mycene 144-145 Route 1 en 1A 67 Archaia Korinthos 151 Route 1B 70 Route 12 156 Route 2 72 Route 13 159 Paleis van Nestor 79 Route 14 162 Route 3 82 Olympia 166-167 Route 4 91 Route 15 173 Mistras 99 Route noordwesten A 178 Route 5 104 Route noordwesten B 179 WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 8 24-09-2008 09:34:34 10 PELOPONNESOS 11 NEDERLAND N ACHTERGRONDEN � P A R O E U GRIEKENLAND � N � Thessaloníki Thasos Samothraki Limnos GRIEKENLAND Skiathos Sporaden Lesbos Skiros Evia ATHENE Chios EGEÏSCHE ZEE Samos Ikaria Peloponnesos Leros Kos Kalymnos Simi Astypalaia Nisyros Dodekanisos eilanden MIDDELLANDSE Rodos K r e t a Karpathos ZEE Iráklion Kassos 0 100 km PELOPONNESOS, LIGGING WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 10 24-09-2008 09:34:38 10 PELOPONNESOS 11 ACHTERGRONDEN LANDSCHAP Ligging De Peloponnesos is het meest zuidelijke deel van het vasteland van Grie- kenland en wordt in het noorden begrensd door de Golf van Korinthos en het Kanaal van Korinthos (dat in 1893 deze regio van schiereiland tot eiland maakte), de Egeïsche Zee en de Ionische Zee. In het Noordwesten ligt tussen Rio enAntirrio een gloednieuwe brug die vooral is bedoeld voor verkeer uit Midden-Griekenland naar de Peloponnesos. De Peloponnesos is half zo groot als Nederland en wordt bewoond door slechts 1,5 miljoen mensen. De meesten van hen leven van de landbouw, in mindere mate van de visserij. Het toerisme echter neemt hand over hand toe en vormt een nieuwe, goede bron van inkomsten. Het eiland is uitermate bergachtig. De bezoeker wordt in het binnenland geconfronteerd met zeer bochtige wegen en weggetjes, waarover slechts spaarzaam verkeer voorkomt. Eenzaamheid alom met af en toe een dorp- je, dat er schijnbaar verlaten bijligt. Op enkele plaatsen kronkelt in het voor- en najaar een rivier, die land- en tuinbouw mogelijk maakt. De bergen zelf zijn op de hellingen begroeid met duizenden olijfbomen en hogerop met naald- of loofbomen. Tot diep in het voorjaar zijn de hoogste toppen met sneeuw bedekt. WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 11 24-09-2008 09:34:42 12 ACHTERGRONDEN LANDSChaP 13 N L Rio � Egio Patra �G G Diakofto G G Akrata naar Xilokastro G Athene ® G Kanaal van Kyllini Kalavrita Korinthos � Korinthos Kastro � G �Gastouni G Istmia � Amaliada Nemea G Olympia Vitina Levidi G Mycene Pyrgos G� � G G Argos G Tirins Ligourio Methana � G G G GEpidauros Krestena Dimitsana Tripoli Andritsena GNafplio Poros � � G Zacharo G Karitena G G Iria G G Galatas Ionische Vasses G Megalopoli Kranidi G Kalo Nero G Dokos Portocheli G Zee Kiparissia G Hydra Spetses Filiatra G Leonidio G Kosmas Messini G Poulithra Chora G G Sparti G Egeïsche G G Patalidi Kalamata G Geraki Pylos G Zee G Limenas Geraka G Pigi Skala G G Finikounda G Methoni G Molai G Koroni G Sikea G Githio G G Epidauros Limina G Areopoli G Monemvasia G Kotronas Gerolimenas G G Neapoli G Porto Kagio G Vathia ACHAIA KORINTHIA Kythira ILIA ARKADIA ARGOLIS MESSINIA LAKONIA N MIDDELLANDSE L ZEE PELOPONNESOS, ALGEMEEN WW Peloponnesos 01 Branco.indd 12 24-09-2008 09:34:43 12 ACHTERGRONDEN LANDSChaP 13 De bergen lopen meestal steil in de zee af (Mani), waardoor van brede zandstranden geen sprake is. Die liggen wel langs de westkust, de noord- kust en de noordoostelijke kust langs de Golf van Argolis. De naam Peloponnesos is afgeleid van die van de mythische, beroemde en beruchte held Pelops. Het tweede deel van het woord is Grieks voor ‘eiland’ (nisi). Wie was Pelops? Pelops was de zoon van koning Tantalus, die bekend is gebleven als naamgever van de ‘tantaluskwelling’ een onverdraaglijk lijden, veroor- zaakt door gebrek aan voedsel en drinken. Hij had namelijk de goden op de proef willen stellen door hun een stoofpot voor te zetten, waarin grote delen van zijn zoon Pelops waren verwerkt. De misdaad werd ontdekt en Pelops werd weer tot leven gewekt, zij het dat er in zijn linkerschouder een stukje ivoor moest worden geplaatst, omdat de godin Demeter in haar achteloosheid een hap van de maaltijd had genomen. In de buurt van het antieke Elis dong hij later naar de hand van de dochter van koning Oenomaus, Hippodamea genaamd.
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