Sailing to Mani and Beyond Join writer and Editor Jeremy Lewis aboard the Variety Voyager as we celebrate the life of Patrick Leigh Fermor, one of our greatest travel writers, in his beloved 14th to 23rd April 2015 in association with the Oldie Magazine Blue Mosque, Istanbul

atrick Leigh Fermor, who died in 2011 at the age of 96, is probably best known to the world at large for dreaming up and then perpetrating one Pof the most dashing and unconventional adventures of the Second World War: the kidnapping in Crete of a German General, who was bundled Istanbul across the mountainous spine of the island before being spirited away Canakkale Troy to Cairo and captivity. Rather improbably, Dirk Bogarde starred as Leigh AEGEAN GREECE SEA Fermor in the film of the book, Ill Met by Moonlight. TURKEY Athens

As proud as he was of his exploits as a guerrilla fighter in Crete, Leigh Fermor was also the finest travel Gythion Patmos writer of the twentieth century, and one of the great masters of English prose. A Time of Gifts, Between Kardamyli the Woods and the Water and the posthumously published The Broken Road, the trilogy in which he Vatheia described how, as an eighteen-year-old, he walked across Europe from Rotterdam to Istanbul, combined Rethmynon commercial success with literary acclaim; but he also wrote two classic books about Greece, the country CRETE he loved above all others and where he lived for much of his life. Roumeli was devoted to Greece north of the Gulf of Corinth, Mani to the bleak but beautiful country at the southernmost tip of the central prong of the . Both books are vivid, carefully crafted evocations of Greek life and culture, combining travel writing with brilliant insights into the history, art, culture, religion and people of his adopted country – not forgetting the food and drink, both of which loomed large in his travels. Guest Speaker There are few places in Greece that Leigh Fermor failed to visit or write about, but our voyage Jeremy Lewis worked in aboard the Variety Voyager will concentrate on two parts of the country with which he is particularly publishing for twenty-plus associated: the Mani, where we plan to visit the magical house he built near Kardamyli; and Crete, years before becoming a the scene of his wartime adventures. Leigh Fermor wrote with particular insight about the Byzantine freelance writer in 1989. He has element in Greek culture, and the cruise will end in Istanbul – which, as Constantinople, was the published three volumes of epicentre of Greek life and culture for over a thousand years, and the city in which Leigh Fermor memoirs, and biographies of concluded his pre-war ‘Great Trudge’ across Europe. Cyril Connolly, Tobias Smollett and Allen Lane. Shades of Greene, an account For this unique voyage we have worked closely with Jeremy Lewis who will accompany the cruise of Graham Greene’s siblings and cousins, was and writes: I got to know Patrick Leigh Fermor after he had chosen my first book of memoirs, ‘Playing published by Jonathan Cape in 2010; he is for Time’, as his book of the year in one of the Sunday papers, and he gave me invaluable help with currently writing a biography of David Astor, the my biography of his friend Cyril Connolly. I wish I’d seen more of him, since he is one of my literary editor-cum-proprietor of the Observer, also for heroes: we met from time to time in London, and I hugely enjoyed a long and very bibulous lunch with Cape. He has been the commissioning editor of him and his wife Joan in their house in Kardamyli. the Oldie since 1997. Ancient pithoi Knossos palace Iraklion

Vatheia Monastery, Patmos

The Itinerary Day 1 London to Athens, Greece. Fly by where, as Leigh Fermor discovered on the very Day 4 Rethmynon, Crete. After breakfast arrive scheduled flight. On arrival transfer to the Variety last page of Mani, Paris and Helen spent their in Rethmynon for a morning visit of the Fortezza Voyager in Piraeus and embark. Sail this evening. first night together after he had stolen her away Castle, built by the Venetians for protection, from the King of Sparta. Alternatively there followed by a walking tour of the town. After Day 2 Gythion. During the night we sail along will be the option of a visit to the extraordinary lunch explore the Rethmynon Military Museum the eastern shores of the Peloponnese, reaching site of Mystras, the last Byzantine stronghold. of War which houses mementoes of Patrick Leigh Gythion in the morning. Our first call on the During lunch onboard we sail south along the Fermor’s most famous exploit, the kidnapping is to its north east corner. Mani’s eastern shore, looking out for the famous of General Kreipe* and then enjoy a scenic Mentioned often and favourably by Patrick Leigh towers, Mani’s most distinctive feature. At the drive to Gaios Kambos on the western edge Fermor, the crowded houses on their climbing southern tip of the peninsula we will sail close of the Psiloritis Mountains which is a renowned terraces present a pretty picture in the glow to the cave which was said to mark the entrance area for native Cretan plants - and early spring of the morning sun. The history of the place to Hades, into which the intrepid Leigh Fermor is the perfect time to see them. Our vessel will goes back to the classical period, when it was swam. Moor overnight in Gerolimin. remain in the port until midnight, providing an the main port of Sparta. During our morning opportunity for an after-dinner stroll in the town. ashore we will explore the town much as Patrick Day 3 Vatheia & Kardamyli. Close to the * Next year John Murray will publish, for the Leigh Fermor did, including the remains of a southern tip of Mani, Vatheia is an astonishing first time in book form, Abducting the General, Greek theatre and a Roman temple. Keep an village of crumbling tower houses standing atop Patrick Leigh Fermor’s own account of the eye out for the romantic island of Marathonisi a barren hill overlooking the sea. The towers kidnapping of General Kreipe in April 1944, and were home to feuding clans of brave we plan to have copies on board. who refused to succumb to Ottoman rule and Gythion harbour they built the fortressed tower houses to defend Day 5 Iraklion, Crete. During the night sail themselves against attacks from marauding along the north coast of Crete to Iraklion. From invaders, pirates and their own neighbours. After our berth it is a short distance to the Palace exploring the village and visiting the fascinating of Knossos, legendary home of the Minotaur. Diros Cave we will return to the Variety Voyager Wander round the site impressively excavated for a leisurely lunch as we sail north to Kardamyli, by Sir Arthur Evans, examining some of the 1300 an enchanting village where Patrick Leigh rooms adorned with lively frescoes where King Fermor and his wife Joan built a magical house Minos held court. Afternoon at leisure to explore by the sea, now owned by the Benaki Museum independently before we set sail in the late in Athens, who hope to restore the house for afternoon and head for the Dodecanese. use as a writer’s retreat. We set sail late this afternoon for Crete where Leigh Fermor spent Day 6 Patmos, Greece. Patmos has been called three years as a wartime guerrilla fighter, and the ‘Jerusalem of the Aegean’ and its religious remained particularly devoted to the island. significance dates from the arrival of St John on Patmos

Kardamyli

by Homer in the Iliad: one of these layers was finest of all Byzantine mosaics and wall paintings, found to have burnt objects in it, suggesting referred to in glowing terms in Patrick Leigh that the city was violently ransacked at some Fermor’s Mani. Enjoy an afternoon at leisure stage. The tour follows the excavations made before meeting this evening for our farewell by Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who dinner. discovered Troy and ‘Priam’s Treasure’, the jewels that, Schliemann claimed, were worn by Day 10 Istanbul to London. Return to London by Helen of Troy. Today, Troy sits in a remote, idyllic, scheduled flight. rural landscape, with the stone city dominating the plain for miles around, as if three millennia have passed in the blink of an eye. We will walk along the walls that held Helen of Troy and look down at the plain where Achilles dragged the dead body of Hector. Prices per person Based on double occupancy Troy, Turkey Day 8 Istanbul. Be up on deck before breakfast as we enter the Bosphorus, a marvellous Cat Deck Prices sight as Istanbul opens in all its magnificence. C Marina £3495 the island in 95 AD. Visit the small cave where Disembark after breakfast and transfer to your B Marina/Riviera £3695 St John received his revelation, the Medieval hotel for a two- night stay. In this bustling city, A Riviera £3895 village of Chora and the Monastery of St John straddling Europe and Asia, you will find some P Horizons £4095 the Theologian – a UNESCO World Heritage of the greatest buildings and works of art in the Owner’s Suite Horizons £4595 Site, and an exceptional example of a Greek world. This morning’s guided excursion includes C Marina for sole use £4495 Orthodox pilgrimage centre. Sail during lunch visits to the Byzantine six-century cathedral B Marina/Riviera for sole use £4695 past the island of Fourmoi and Samos, heading of Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmet Camii north along the Anatolian coastline. (Blue Mosque). The afternoon offers the chance Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, for a cruise on the Bosphorus or a visit to the seven nights aboard the Variety Voyager on a full board basis with house wine with lunch and dinner Today we call at Canakkale, underground world of the Basilica Cistern. Day 7 Troy, Turkey. onboard, two nights hotel accommodation in our gateway for Troy, where ongoing Istanbul on breakfast only basis, farewell dinner archaeological excavations have revealed nine Day 9 Istanbul. This morning your sightseeing in Istanbul, shore excursions, services of a cruise different layers of cities superimposed in rings continues with a visit to the Topkapi Palace – director and tour manager, guest speaker, transfers, on a massive mound rising above the Plain of residence of the early sultans and the Kahrie port taxes, airport taxes.. Ilium. It was to one of these cities, legend has it, Djami, a church-cum-mosque out by the Not Included: Travel insurance, visa. that the Greeks fought the Trojans as recounted Theodosian Walls. Here we will see some of the NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change. Variety Voyager The Variety Voyager is a newly built, private yacht which accommodates up to 72 passengers in 36 cabins. Built under the latest International SOLAS regulations and classified by the American Bureau of Shipping, the Variety Voyager guarantees guests safety with considerable comfort and elegance. If you find large resort-style vessels accommodating many thousands of passengers attractive then of course this isn’t the vessel for you. However, if you prefer a more peaceful life at sea and an atmosphere more akin to a private yacht then you need look no further.

Your Cabin/Suite The 68 metre Variety Voyager accommodates up to 72 guests in 36 cabins, 28 of the cabins are located on the Marina and Riviera decks and the eight staterooms are located on the Horizons deck. Cabins and staterooms are spacious and sizes range from 16m2 to 28m2. Cabins on the Marina deck feature two oversized portholes and cabins on the Riviera and Horizons decks feature large windows. All cabins have en-suite marble bathrooms, individually controlled air conditioning, a mini fridge, safety deposit box, flat screen television and DVD player. Bathrobes and toiletries are also provided.

Your Space Public areas are spacious and finely decorated. The Main lounge is located on the Riviera deck, adjacent to the reception area and is tastefully designed and furnished. It offers ample comfortable seating and is fully equipped with an AV system for onboard lectures and presentations. On the Marina deck is the internet area and a small library offering a variety of books and magazines as well as computer stations for internet access. The contemporary Dining room seats all passengers in one sitting and has floor to ceiling windows. It extends to the adjacent open deck where meals can be taken ‘al fresco’. The Sun deck is a large area of outdoor space with Balinese beds and sun loungers. Here you will also find the Horizon Bar & Lounge, an open-air area on the Upper deck offering stylish shaded seating and music in the evening. There is a spa and fitness suite located on the Marina deck offering massages, sauna and fitness equipment. The Balinese Spa Supervisor also provides hair, face and nail treatments.

Your Dining The glass enclosed dining room seats 75 passengers and allows for spectacular views around you, while dining in an elegant environment. It extends to the adjacent open deck, also seating 50 passengers and allowing for breakfast, lunch or dinner to be taken “al fresco”. Food is served at the table or a hot and cold buffet is offered which also includes an “a la minute cooking” section. Owner’s Suite Twin Cabin Category P

Restaurant Twin Cabin Category B

DECK PLAN Sun Deck Dining Sun Deck Bar Spa

Life Onboard Part of the joy of a cruise aboard the Variety Voyager is its capability to Deck Plan dock in small ports or drop anchor in any suitable spot, unlike the large ships which can only dock in the larger ports with all the supporting infrastructure necessary to service the vessels. With a maximum of only 72 guests, our trips ashore will be a pleasure as we explore with local guides. Onboard the atmosphere is informal with ample public space to relax with a book or to join new found friends to discuss the day’s events. Throughout the vessel you will find unobstructed views and the professional crew of 28 will ensure impeccable service.

Lounge

2 Chester Close, Belgravia, London, SW1X 7BE NC-009-310314_S +44 (0)20 7752 0000 | [email protected] | www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Cover image: Mani peninsula.