12 Cooking Classes around the World 22 Breakfast at the Purple 25 Aperitif Wine on the Menu and More A Taste of at Benedetto 07

Pork belly with salsa di sapori forti Featured on pg 08

Volume 1, Issue 2 August 2017 www.gourmetbusiness.com

Contents August 2017 27 Features 07 Tuesday Night Marketing: A Taste of Ancient Rome at Benedetto Chef Michael Pagliarini partnered with Crystal King to delight diners with a three-course Ancient Roman Feast inspired by Apicius, a Roman gourmet and lover of refined luxury.

12 Cooking Classes Around the World Travel to Barcelona, Florence, Tokyo, and Oaxaca and learn from local chefs. Connect to cultures through cuisine.

22 Rise & Swine: Breakfast at the Purple Pig 14 Departments “We pay rent 24 hours a day. Why not use the restaurant as much as we can,” says Chef Jimmy Bannos. Everything they serve is made in house, 05 First Words including the ketchup. 06 Publisher’s Note 25 Aperitifs on the Menu Whether it’s walk-ins waiting for a table, a reservation early for their 20 Leadership Strategies to seating, or guests who want time with the bottle list, there are many Reduce Turnover scenarios where aperitif wines enhance a diner’s experience. 34 Managing your Restaurant’s 29 Producer Profiles Online Presence Great food starts in earth and water. Tour the Sabatino Tartufi truffle factory and learn the cost of black truffles and why white truffles are ten 22 36 NRA Recap times that. 41 WCR Recap 32 43 Readings

44 Santé Exposé 45 Submission Guidelines

46 Upcoming Industry Events

First Word Barcelona is a hugely popular destination hosting literally hundreds of thousands of visitors. With sites like Gaudi’s magnificent Sagrada Familia, and miles of beaches, it’s easy to fill a Gourmet Business publication a holiday with crowded attractions and never have an actual conversation with a local. I was determined to step off the well-trod path so I signed my Group Publisher Publisher David Spencer Vice President, Global Sales family up for a cooking class. [email protected] East Coast, International Around the globe, recreational (877) 438-4932 ext. 1 Brad Simon cooking schools provide visitors with [email protected] the opportunity to learn from local Editorial Director (877) 438-4932 ext. 12 chefs who acquaint them with the Deborah Norkin cuisine. Certainly, spending four hours [email protected] Associate Publisher Midwest, West (877) 438-4932 ext. 3 Joe Sgammato won’t make anyone an expert, but it [email protected] does introduce , techniques, Contributing Editor (917) 583-7405 and dishes in a way that ordering off a James Mellgren menu cannot. [email protected] Subscriber Services From the instant we stepped into the (877) 438-4932 ext. 5 [email protected] kitchen, Chef Candido maneuvered Creative Director twelve cooks of varying abilities like a Chaz Hanna maestro conducting an orchestra. All hands were needed to create what would be our lunch. As we worked, we laughed, shared stories, and drank wine. The time my family and I spent cooking together was the highlight of our trip. We had many excellent meals while in Barcelona, but I can state without question, the food we shared at Barcelona Cooking was the best we had all Corporate Offices: Gourmet Business & HousewaresDirect, Inc., PO Box 700, Weston, MA 02493 week — not just because it was delicious, but because the memory of the day is one we will carry with us long after Santé is a digital publication serving restaurant professionals. All Gourmet Business our tans have faded. media properties rely on product information submitted by the manufacturer, distributor or other representative in the featured editorial content. Gourmet Business is not responsible for any errors in the descriptions or prices appearing in any of Deborah Norkin our publications. Gourmet Business Santé is distributed free of charge to qualified specialty professionals in the restaurant and specialty verticals. Editorial Director, Santé [email protected] Publisher's Note The WOW factor. Giving here.” He put two and two together. There your guests more than are hundreds of restaurants I could go they expect creates a to, but this kind of treatment turns me lasting impression. Even into a return customer. Sure enough, on now, I remember going my next visit, CJ came to the table and out to dinner with my remembered not just my name, but the family to our favorite names of the people I was with. WOW. restaurant and one waitress that always When I’m treated like a VIP, not only do I remembered us. She return, but I’m much more likely to forgive welcomed us with a smile and gave extra and forget something that wasn’t perfect. helpings of rolls she knew we liked. She Usually the meal has to stand on it’s own remembered I liked American on my merits. That’s not a bad thing, but if the burger and that my mother wanted her soda total experience gives the customer the with extra ice. I didn’t just look forward to WOW factor all of a sudden the cost of the the food, I looked forward to seeing her. dinner becomes secondary the experience of coming to that restaurant is what As I take clients out to dinner on a regular remains in the mind of the diner. Word of basis, I notice servers that treat me like I’m mouth either positive or negative is very special. A waiter in the packing district powerful. in NYC stands out in my mind. Long before it became the trendy place it is today, Go for the WOW factor, I know it will Frank’s Steak House was open from 1:00AM pay off for you in the long run. Enjoy this until 3:00PM for truck drivers making issue; it is packed with great articles and deliveries. At 5:00PM the truck-stop diner products that you should be interested in disappeared to be replaced with tables and bringing to your facility. cloth napkins to become a fantastic steak restaurant. Until next time. A votré santé One evening, I came to Frank’s after the NY Auto show. CJ, the waiter, greeted us and Brad Simon showed us to our table. As he brought our Publisher, Santé cocktails he asked me if we we’d enjoyed Vice President, Global Sales the auto show. “Yes,” I said. “How did you [email protected] know we were there?”

“I keep a notebook in the back. I knew you were into cars and don’t live around Patina of bluefish agrodolce with cipollini, sultanas and nuts I Pentri ‘Flora’ Falanghina Beneventano IGT

TUESDAY NIGHT MARKETING A Taste of Ancient Rome at Benedetto Events are a great way to entice people to dine out on nights they might otherwise eat at home. For the corner bar, taco Tuesday or dollar-beer Monday might be enough to fill the tables, but for upscale restaurants, two-for-one coupons probably don’t fit into the marketing plan. A literary-themed event, however, can pique intellectual curiosity for diners and staff. Combining forces with a writer who has their own audience exposes a restaurant to a new clientele.

7 Santé Tuesday Night Marketing: A Taste of Ancient Rome Pork belly with salsa di sapori forti, boiled leeks, cabbage, and dill Last June, Michael Pagliarini, Chef/ taste like with an extraordinarily Molettieri Aglianico Irpinia DOC Owner at Benedetto in the Charles skilled and talented chef. She Hotel in Cambridge, MA, partnered was a fan of Chef Mike, so she with local author Crystal King. pitched him the idea. Both King’s novel, Feast of Sorrow, is a Benedetto and Giulia, Pagliarini’s story of ancient Rome told from first restaurant, focus on Italian the perspective of the chef of cuisine. “I’ve spent a lot of time Apicius, a legendary gourmand in Rome,” says Chef Mike. “I’ve from the time of Augustus and always been fascinated with Tiberius Caesar. King spent ten their layered approach years researching and writing the to seasoning. Turning back novel which is all about food, feasts the clock to the point where and luxury. King had done dozens the food isn’t recognizable of recipe re-creations but always as modern Roman cuisine wondered what the flavors would was fascinating.”

Pam Ralston, co-owner of menu wasn’t a simple matter Benedetto and Giulia, was on of following a recipe.” He knew board from the start. “We’re he couldn’t replicate many of always looking for ways to the dishes and not just because push the boundaries of food certain ingredients, like silphium, and hospitality.” One challenge an herb in many recipes, is for Chef Mike was to translate extinct. Other ingredients, like ancient flavors into something flamingo tongue or dormice, his diners would enjoy. He even if available would hardly drew upon the world's oldest appeal to the modern diner. Chef cook book Apicius, which was Mike aimed to evoke the flavors the inspiration for Feast of of the lavish dishes with more Sorrow. “Apicius isn’t a typical familiar ingredients like seafood cook book. Coming up with a and legumes.

8 Santé Tuesday Night Marketing: A Taste of Ancient Rome Crystal King, Author Juan Munoz, Sommelier

Marsala wine custard with santa rosa plums, fresh summer berries, and honeycomb Cannonau, , wild fennel, black pepper, coriander, marsala

The combination of and in ancient Roman cuisine but it flavorings, especially garum, a wasn’t usually of great quality fermented fish sauce used as and was generally watered down a condiment in ancient Rome, and spiced. Today, ancient grape played heavily into the menu. varietals make some of the best “It’s been a lot of fun,” says Chef wine in . “There’s no need Mike. “I had to put myself in a to dilute or these wines,” completely different world of says Juan Munoz, Benedetto’s spices and techniques to execute Sommelier. Instead, King supplied dishes that are reminiscent of Munoz with a list of commonly- the time while taking the modern used seasonings and, along with palate into consideration.” Charles Coykendall, Bar Manager and Benedetto’s “Spiritual Wine played an important role Advisor,” experimented with

Anchovy and wild frittata with spiced honey and lovage Santé Tuesday Night Marketing: A Taste of Ancient Rome 9 Nasceta, orange blossom, cardamom, verjus, stone fruit Anatra all’Apicius with peppered radishes, roasted carrots and emmer farro Cortese dei Papi ‘Colle Ticchio’ Cesanese Del Piglio DOCG Umbrian lentils with steamed mussels, toasted spices, almonds, and sweet apple vinegar I Pentri ‘Flora’ Falanghina Beneventano IGT

different combinations until they success of this event, we’ve hit on a recipe they liked to be created a History of Italy dinner served with the first course. series diving into regional cuisine or elements of Italian cooking with Serving dishes family style fosters a historic point of view.” lively conversations and Crystal, Chef Mike, and Juan stopped by each table to chat and answer questions about the food, the wine, and the book. “It was a great way for us to connect with our guests and for them to connect Michael Pagliarini, Chef/Owner at Bendetto with each other. Based on the

10 Santé Tuesday Night Marketing: A Taste of Ancient Rome Your One-Stop In-Store Demo Solution! Highly Trained Staff Coverage In All 50 States Approved In Most Stores Complete Scheduling Demo Kit Fulfilment Comprehensive Reporting and much more! www.BusyBeePromotions.com Contact us today and let us get your 1 (888) 438-9995 demo program off of your plate. Cooking Classes Around the World: Barcelona Cooking, Barcelona www.barcelonacooking.net

By Deborah Norkin

Candido Cid, Tony Martinez, and street below. A butcher-block (meatballs with cuttlefish), Emma Valcarcel launched Barcelona dining and work table is set with Barelonetta Potato Bombs (deep Cooking in 2012 to share a unique all the ingredients to prepare the fried mashed potatoes stuffed cultural experience with travelers Catalan tapas menu of Pintxo with beef and vegetables), and visiting their beautiful city. Located de Sobrasada (sautéed sausage Gazpacho Andaluz (the classic with steps from Placa Cataluna on the with caramelized pears and blue sherry vinegar for zest and bread famed mile-long pedestrian mall cheese on toast), Mar y Montana crumbs for texture). of Las Rambla, Barcelona Cooking offers classes for groups of up to twelve in classic Spanish and Catalan cuisine.

A tour of La Boqueria, a market in existence since 1200, is offered with several classes. Chef Candido leads groups through row after row of stalls that hawk everything from snails to spices then gives a quick lesson (along with a taste) of what elevates a great jamón, the ubiquitous - cured ham, from merely a good one.

A narrow stairway leads to a kitchen with mosaic blue-tiled walls and windows that overlook the bustling

12 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Barcelona Cooking Classes Around the World: Barcelona Cooking, Barcelona www.barcelonacooking.net

Chef Candido expertly assesses homeland’s is evident been emptied, cooks bond, and people’s knife skills and assigns as he regales the group with emails and photos are exchanged. appropriate tasks. Once the stories about food and encourages The morning classes are perfectly preparation is underway, wine is participants to share their own timed to end so all the chefs can poured and the volume grows. It’s experiences. By the end of the four- stumble back to beds for well- as much a party as instruction. hour class, stomachs are near to earned siestas. Chef Candido’s passion for his bursting, many bottles of wine have

13 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Barcelona Cooking Classes Around the World: Desinare Cooking School, Florence www.desinaire.it

By Amber Gibson

Desinare is an archaic Florentine Barthel's Florentine workshop rooms and kitchens are elegantly verb meaning “to dine” and to dine and showroom is one of the finest appointed in a way that Williams- in Tuscan is a study in pure displays of interior design and Sonoma could only aspire to match. flavors and simplicity. There's no craftsmanship to be found in the It's upstairs, though, that the real better place to learn than off a small city. Step across the courtyard, magic happens. side street in Florence's bohemian decorated with colorful tiles, and Private and group cooking classes Oltrarno neighborhood. Riccardo into the showroom, where dining

14 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Florence Cooking Classes Around the World: Desinare Cooking School, Florence www.desinaire.it

for up to ten students are held on out. Tie on a crisp new apron and wrapped around chunks of cheese the second floor, with a customized it's time to get to work. Chef Maria and roasted with rosemary and menu to suit your interests. Love Valiani begins by taking students to cherry tomatoes. ? Learn to make gnocchi, the local market to pick out fresh pappardelle and ravioli from scratch produce. Next, visit the butcher Take turns helping out, whether all in the same day. Printed recipes, shop down the street to select it's rolling dough, shelling walnuts cutting boards and knives are laid the best veal to be pounded thin, or blending pesto. With kind encouragement and helpful instruction, even a novice will feel comfortable navigating the attachments and settings of the professional grade pasta maker machine. It takes a few hours to prepare the three- or four-course meal, but nobody ever goes hungry. Whilst cooking, indulge in local Pecorino Toscano cheese paired with Chianti wine. Cooking becomes a fun, convivial exercise with strangers becoming fast friends. Chef Valiani choreographs the morning impeccably, timing each dish so everything is ready simultaneously for a hearty lunch feast.

15 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Florence Cooking Classes Around the World: Seasons of My Heart, Oaxaca www.seasonsofmyheart.com

By Nneka M. Okona The southern state of Oaxaca in chefs looking to sharpen their A combination market tour and Mexico is known as the land of skills and learn some Mexican cooking class is held once a week a thousand moles. The region’s tricks of the trade, Seasons Of My on Wednesdays. After the tour and largest city, Oaxaca City, is Heart, a cooking school headed by an almuerzo (a light lunch), the one of unparalleled culinary renowned chef Susana Trilling, is day’s ingredients are presented. traditions and treasures. For the place to go. The students then prepare a five- course meal for dinner in a kitchen outfitted with warm yellow and deep blue ceramic tiles.

Seasons of my Heart provides cooking classes for novice cooks wanting to learn more about Oaxacan cuisine as well for chefs looking to deepen their skill set in a unique way.

A one-week chef’s intensive course is held four times a year with shifting themes centered around what produce is readily available. During this week, cooks prepare more than forty regional specialties.

16 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Oaxaca Cooking Classes Around the World: Seasons of My Heart, Oaxaca www.seasonsofmyheart.com

Discussions and lectures are led chocolate, which is shaped into of fellowship, but also as many by Trilling, who readily shares her bars by hand and made from Oaxaqueño (one-of-a-kind food expertise and passion for stoneground cacao beans, can be items) that their suitcases can hold. Oaxacan food. purchased at the school’s gourmet shop. Cooks take home not only Unique ingredients, like their knowledge of food and memories

17 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Oaxaca Cooking Classes Around the World: Tokyo Cook, Tokyo www.tokyo-cook.com

By Melinda Joe

Tokyo Cook is tucked away in the Japanese culinary fundamentals includes morning mentoring rear of Sougo, a contemporary including the principles of umami, sessions as well as the chance to Japanese restaurant in Tokyo’s Japanese pantry staples, and how work at the restaurant with the staff bustling Roppongi district. The to prepare the perfect dashi — a in the afternoons or evenings. school offers lessons in Japanese broth made with kelp and dried home cooking and shojin-ryori bonito flakes that is the cornerstone “Students can see the operation (vegetarian Buddhist temple of Japanese cuisine. The program side of running a restaurant in cuisine). These classes, conducted in Japanese with English-language interpretation, are geared toward non-professionals. The school also offers a series of two- to three-week intensive courses for international industry professionals looking to master sushi, tempura, or shojin- ryori — led by acclaimed chefs Yoshi Tezuka (Sushi Matsunozushi), Hitoshi Arai (Kagurazaka Tenko), and Daisuke Nomura (formerly of Michelin-starred Daigo, now executive chef at Sougo) inside the kitchens of their restaurants.

Tokyo Cook’s curriculum begins with

18 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Tokyo Cooking Classes Around the World: Tokyo Cook, Tokyo www.tokyo-cook.com

Tokyo,” explains Yoko Goto, who On a sultry morning in July, Hardy traditionally used for tempura in teaches home cooking classes Haryanto, a restaurateur from different areas of Japan. Later, he at Tokyo Cook and translates for Jakarta, accompanies Chef Arai to practices peeling and deveining live the chefs during the intensive Tsujiki market to source ingredients shrimp before carefully dipping them courses. “They also learn Japanese as part of his training. Haryanto in batter and deep-frying them in a hospitality first hand and can records notes as Arai explains the mixture of cottonseed and sesame interact with the customers.” different varieties of seasonal fish oil. Haryanto had signed up for Tokyo Cook’s tempura intensive to prepare for his new project: a chain of restaurants specializing in tendon (tempura over rice) that he plans to open in Indonesia.

“I want to bring the feeling of Japan to Indonesia. You can learn how to cook tempura in other places, but I wanted to go deeper into the food culture,” Haryanto says. “If my business is successful, I feel like Arai- san will be proud. This has been a very good journey for me.”

19 Santé Cooking Classes Around the World: Tokyo MANAGEMENT PERSPECTIVES: LEADERSHIP STRATEGIES TO REDUCE TURNOVER By: Justin Cohen

Turnover is like a dip in the stock market: common goals, direction, communication, Strategies to reduce turnover and keep around the orientation. Don’t let an you can reinvest after selling at a loss, and increased responsibility to help them your team intact: employee work for weeks before you reach but you’ll never get back that initial advance their careers. Employees want to out. An initial lack of rapport will negatively investment. Employees are investments. care about their jobs. They want to know Invest in Orientations impact their view of the business. When When team members leave, they take with they’re valued. Being a great boss means Staff retention starts with the first I was a GM, I was present for every new them the knowledge they’ve acquired nurturing these relationships. When impression. Orientation is your first employee orientation. After a tour and and you’re faced with bringing someone people like their boss, they’re less likely opportunity to build rapport with your staff introductions, I went through training new up to speed. It can be draining both to leave. future brand ambassadors. Create value materials, set expectations, and explained emotionally and financially especially when it seems all you’re ever doing is breaking in new staff.

Don’t underestimate the powerful value of the relationship between employee and boss. Why do people leave jobs? Certainly some employees leave for higher paying opportunities. Kitchen staff often leave to expand their experience base with different chefs and cuisines. Most, however, leave jobs for emotional reasons. Often it’s a disconnect or a problematic relationship with their supervisor. People don’t want to just work for someone — they want a connection with their leader. They want a mentorship that provides

20 Santé Strategies to Reduce Turnover it happened, and how to fix it. Reinforce Use the opportunity to educate your team your confidence in them moving forward. and to give a shout out to employees who There is so much power in interpersonal have gone above and beyond. Interact with communication in the restaurant industry your team. Have some fun. Quiz them on because of the highly sensitive service- the menu. “What’s your favorite entree?” driven environment. This type of interaction “Sell me your favorite Cabernet.” Reward builds lasting loyalty around your great answers with creative prizes. relationships and will definitely minimize turnover. Pre-shifts can cut off negative energy and create a focused and purposeful mindset. If Pre-shift Your Team you’re having fun, it’s likely they’ll have fun One of the most powerful actions a great too. Create an environment with character coach can take when leading a team to and energy and you’ll be rewarded with less victory is the pregame speech. Very few turnover and a happier staff. Employees are championships are won without a dynamic the roots of your restaurant. If you water boost from the coach. Begin your shift with and feed the roots, the entire restaurant our company’s values and policies. After the opportunities to coach and develop your an enthusiastic and defined pre-shift, just will thrive. necessary administrative information, I had team through five minute chunks of private as great coaches do. This sets the tone for lunch with each new team member. If other interaction. During service, interactions teamwork and camaraderie which are key Justin Cohen is the Vice President of Riot staff was around and had time, I invited are usually hasty. The Power of 5 forces for employee fulfillment. When employees Hospitality in Scottsdale, Arizona and is them to join us. I asked them how they got you to focus on one employee for five feel part of something larger than writing a book about leadership in the into the hospitality industry, about their minutes. If you want to acknowledge themselves, they’re less likely to leave. restaurant industry. family and hobbies. This simple personal remarkable service, instead of just saying investment shaped the morale of my “good job,” sit down with them for five business and will help you tailor the initial minutes to specifically explain how you relationships with your new teammates. felt and reinforce what happened. If you They will leave their first day with a sense of receive food compliments from your guests, connection to you and the business, a great don’t just say “Table 32 liked their steak.” first impression, and hopefully a sense of Take five minutes after the shift and tell pride and respect for their job. him how great the food has been. Tell him how much you value the level of pride the Power of 5 kitchen has in the food. Don’t just reprimand Leaders must continue to work to sustain an employee who makes a mistake. Sit the relationship that starts at orientation. down for five minutes at an appropriate The Power of 5 is about creating time and talk about what happened, why

21 Santé Strategies to Reduce Turnover RISE & SWINE Breakfast at The Purple Pig

Diners desperate for a fix of Chef “It took only a couple of months Jimmy Bannos, Jr.’s inventive before we were ready to roll,” says porcine creations regularly wait Bannos. hours for a table at The Purple Pig in Chicago. Bon Appetit included In retrospect, adding breakfast it as one of the 10 Best New makes perfect sense. More Restaurants in America in 2010. operating hours means more Bannos was named James Beard’s revenue and a healthier bottom Rising Star Chef in 2014. By every line. The incremental cost is the measure, this restaurant is a extra hours for the staff. Since The success. Why, then, would they Purple Pig already serves lunch, add breakfast? the crew need only come in a few hours earlier for the 8-10:30am Chef Bannos says it was born service and they can still sleep in from a simple observation. During on the weekends — breakfast is a partner’s meeting someone Monday-Friday only. noted there wasn’t a great place for and breakfast on An unexpected benefit of the their block. The team quickly breakfast shift is that it provides developed a concept and a menu. an ideal training ground for new

22 Santé Rise & Swine: Breakfast at the Purple Pig n

chefs. “Two hours a day, five days It’s been a learning curve for a week is a low-stress way to get everyone. Bannos had no cooks used to the kitchen and how experience with serving breakfast we do things here. Its a great low- but he knew he wanted to offer pressure situation,” says Bannos. something different. “Everything This training is important because we serve is completely from everyone in the kitchen must get scratch; bagels, breads, English along. “The line is very tight. We muffins, cream cheese. It’s all have seven people in a tiny space. made here,” he says. Of course We won’t tolerate anybody that the coffee is special as well. The doesn’t have a good attitude and Purple Pig serves Counter Culture isn’t a nice person,” says Bannos. Coffee. “It’s hands-down the best

23 Santé Rise & Swine: Breakfast at the Purple Pig coffee I’ve ever had in my entire orders, then customers pay, take life. It’s also something people a number, and fix their coffee. If can’t buy on their own. It’s they choose to dine in, the orders only wholesale.” are delivered to the table. About half of customers take their orders It seems to be working. Since to go. their first breakfast service in May, lines have grown and it’s Bannos hopes that a morning stop easy to see why. It’s quick; you at The Purple Pig will become part can get in and out in fifteen of people’s morning routine. With minutes. It’s delicious; everything his trademark inspired offerings, is house made, even the ketchup. no doubt, it will. It’s reasonably priced; the most expensive item on the menu is a www.thepurplepigchicago.com Fried-Egg English Muffin with butter, at $9.95. Customers step up to the counter to check out the menu. Coffee and selections are displayed under glass on the bar. Barista’s take

24 Santé Rise & Swine: Breakfast at the Purple Pig APERITIF WINES ON THE MENU BY SHANA SOKOL

owadays, guests are looking to have that traditional meal WHAT IS AN APERITIF? N for an experience, rather than progression without including just a meal, when eating out. With hard ,” says Shannon a trend towards slower, more Tucker, Wine Director and General Aperitivos are a popular tradition leisurely dining, aperitif wines Manager at Foreign Cinema in San in Italy; these low-alcohol sips, are an opportunity to add to the Francisco. often paired with small bites, customers’ evening. “are a nice way to treat yourself Here’s how a few beverage to a ton of and erase the Let’s be honest: we’re a nation of directors around the country day, so to speak,” says Horn. cocktail drinkers, built on a history incorporate these quaffers into Classically speaking, an aperitif of speakeasies and three-martini their list, and how it can work for “should make you salivate, set lunches. However, those high- your establishment. the palate, and get you ready alcohol starters are not conducive to a thoughtful night out. “The average martini contains twice to three times as much alcohol as an aperitif; you’re not setting yourself up for a nice dining experience, you’re probably getting closer to that point where you stop drinking faster,” says Chris Horn, Wine Director at the Purple Cafe in the Seattle area.

Although cocktails still dominate the American dining landscape, “Not everyone wants to start with a gin and tonic, or a martini. There’s a lot of opportunity (above top) Foreign Cinema, San Francisco (above bottom) Rachael Lowe, Spiaggia Restaurant, Chicago (left) Carlton McCoy, Element 47 Restaurant, Aspen Colorado Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu 25 (left) Rachael Lowe with Spiaggia's wine offering (below) Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle

to eat,” says Carlton McCoy, ON THE LIST marks certain pours on her by- MS, Wine Director at The Little the-glass list as appropriate for Nell, which includes Element47, Awareness of aperitifs is a big aperitifs, so the staff can verbally in Aspen. The wines are usually first step in getting customers create a menu to complement the high acid and refreshing, which to understand this category. At printed list. opens the category up to a Purple Cafe, Horn puts them front variety of options. Some still and center on the wine list. “A lot Creating a named category wines, such as a dry Riesling or of people have the habit of first also helps define the wines for a Gruner Veltliner, fit the bill. sitting down and asking to see the a customer. “I have a section Champagne is another classic cocktail page, but we want them with about 10-12 offerings,” says example, as bubbles whet an to see aperitifs first. I think either McCoy. “People go, ‘ok, this is appetite. Beyond wine-list staples, people haven’t been exposed to a thing, let’s try something.’” grape-based , such as them or haven’t considered them.” Dry, fortified wine sales were Lillet, are mainstays on European Tucker works closely with her staff nonexistent at Element47 before wine lists. Sherries, especially to help get customers interested the dedicated aperitif section was fino sherries, offer a delicious in these refreshing starters. She created. “We can’t say we doubled salinity. Rachael Lowe, Beverage Director at Spiaggia in Chicago, notes that aromatized wines, particularly vermouth, make for a refreshing start. Many beverage professionals cite Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine that blends slightly fermented grape must and cognac, as a favorite. Sake is finding a place outside of Japanese restaurants when offered as an opening drink.

26 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu (left, below left) Element 47 Restaurant, Aspen Colorado (below right) Foreign Cinema's outdoor seating area

or tripled anything, because it IT’S A CONVERSATION some marcona almonds to taste was zero; now we’re selling them,” with it. Once a guest trusts you, says McCoy. Lowe found that by once you give them an experience incorporating something familiar, Introducing these wines to diners they weren’t expecting and really such as a glass of champagne, offers the opportunity to enhance a enjoyed, they’re likely to trust you into the list establishes a comfort customer’s experience; it’s another with the rest of the experience,” zone; once the guest has their touchpoint of customer service says Horn. bearings, they may strike up a that carries throughout the meal. conversation about other items “It’s a great first exchange — oh, McCoy greets guests with, and open themselves up to tasting you’ve never had a fino sherry “‘Welcome to Element47, can I something completely new. before? Let me give you a little and start you with a Champagne, a cocktail, or an aperitif?’ When I first added that sector of wines by the glass, servers weren’t sure how to deal with it or how to introduce it. But it adds legitimacy [to the category] when it’s in your introduction spiel.”

Lowe finds that using descriptors such as “bright, beautiful and seasonal” builds anticipation for aromatized wines. Verbalizing how it’s served, such as “The Lillet is poured over ice and served with a little twist of orange,” also manages expectations.

27 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu Understanding a guest’s interested in it and build the drinking it. With an aperitif, you 4 Wine Directors share the aperitifs they like to drink. preconceived notion of these wines popularity.” think, ‘ok, what now?’” By starting helps steer the conversation. As with something refreshing, the Horn points out, many people Not everyone needs to take this chances of diners ordering a bottle Chris Horn’s Picks associate vermouth and sherry as strategy, though. Lowe points out are higher. kitchen pantry items, so “the idea that because these sippers are CARPANO ANTICA VERMOUTH of having them in cocktails evokes naturally lower alcohol, the price Aperitifs are more than a prelude KOPKE WHITE PORT the feeling of ‘are you kidding me? to guests should naturally be a bit to dinner; by offering a wide range I cook with that!’” By introducing lower than a cocktail, and thus of sips, you set the tone for the EL MAESTRO SIERRA FINO SHERRY customers to handcrafted products more accessible. evening and signal to guests they and telling the story behind them, should settle in for the experience. you can start to change perception Looking at the meal holistically also Interesting and varied choices Carlton McCoy’s Picks and build a kinship between the figures into the cost. “It should be reflect the quality of the rest of the DOLIN BIANCO ON THE ROCKS customer and the wine. the first thing you eat or drink when wine list and build anticipation for WITH AN ORANGE SLICE you arrive so you’re inspired to the next drink that goes in the glass. eat or drink more,” says Tucker. “If It’s an opportunity to excite guests APEROL SPRITZ HOW TO PRICE THEM you start with a Manhattan, which with something new and build a FRENCH 75 COCKTAIL is heavy and richer in taste, your relationship, one that will carry on Both Horn and McCoy mark their mouth is a little more fried after for many more meals. aperitifs up less in order to make the category more appealing. Rachael Lowe’s Picks Although this strategy may seems counterintuitive to helping the LILLET bottom line, “The reality is, it’s all MANTINO VERMOUTH added value because they wouldn’t have purchased it at all if the price COCCHI AMERICANO was high. You’re going to win either way,” says McCoy. “Just like you Shannon Tucker’s Picks don’t do uniform markups — you might mark a super-popular wine NORMANDIN-MERCIER PINEAU DE CHARENTES up more — if it’s something you MAURIN QUINA really want to hand-sell, you take less of a margin to get guests APEROL AND SODA Photo Credits: Foreign Cinema — Ghost Media, Inc. (right) Element 47 Wine Selection Purple Cafe — Purple Cafe and Wine Bar Spiaggia — Anthony Tahlier Photography 28 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu Little Nell — Jessica Grenier, Gibeon Photography PRODUCER PROFILES: SABATINO TARTUFI

Few foods evoke such a feeling , and some changes have powerful emitted by of luxury and mystique as truffles. been introduced, truffles are still the and alerts the handler The image of a lone forager and unearthed the way people have who deftly, and carefully, digs up his prized pig tromping at dawn been hunting them for millennia. the truffle. This unique procuring through mist covered woods to The fungus grows on the living process, along with the truffle’s unearth the lumpy treasure is not roots of certain species of , short shelf life, has made prices merely a romantic picture. Though chestnut, , poplar, and prohibitive and has kept truffles most have been replaced by trees. The or pig smells out of reach for many restaurants. However, recent now make what was once available only to a select few, an option for everyone.

Sabatino Tartufi has been on the forefront of truffle production since 1911. A family owned company, they started with a small tract of land in , Italy and are now one of the world’s largest producers of fresh and manufactured truffle products.

“Truffles elevate every dish,” says their CEO Federico Balestra. “Our goal is to transport everyone’s taste buds to Italy one truffle at a time.”

29 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu All of Sabatino Tartufi’s truffles come from Europe and Australia. TRUFFLE MYTHS: They partner with an extensive network of reputable individual Truffles are aphrodisiacs. Truffles emit powerful purveyors and farmers. European pheromones which sexually arouse pigs. Humans truffles make their way to their assumed they would do the same thing for them. Italian facility in Montecastrilli, in Wrestling with a horny pig to get a truffle is Italy’s Umbria region. Those not dangerous; now it is more common to use specially distributed in Europe, travel to their 60,000 square foot facility in West trained dogs to detect truffles. Haven, CT. Ancient people believed truffles were formed when “Our facility in Connecticut is larger lightning struck the earth. than our European one because in Europe, the foodservice market is Greeks and Romans believed they gave eternal mostly interested in fresh truffles. health to body and soul making them a prize In the US, professionals and consumers are eager to try new ingredient to the upper classes. products,” says Balestra. The Catholic Church banned these so-called “devil’s New products are, of course, fruits” during medieval times because of their important but their primary hypnotic, aphrodisiac-like qualities. business is fresh truffles. “When you cook with fresh truffles, you’re creating art,” says Balestra. Black truffles have a hard, bumpy shell

30 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu TRUFFLE WARNINGS:

which protects them but not Many truffle products do not contain truffles so with white truffles. “They’re If something is too cheap, it probably has chemical like ticking time bombs,” says compounds that mimic truffle flavor. Balestra. “If they get dropped, they’re destroyed.” White truffles are delivered to the European Beware of black-market truffles facility within a few hours after Less desirable truffle varieties are sprayed with scents and passed off as the real deal. Chinese being underground, and they arrive truffles look the same on the outside, but have at their final destination within in one day. White truffles can be held little taste. for three days before the quality starts to diminish. Black truffles can last seven. Truffle crime abounds

As with any pricey product, tax evasion, night- There are about 200 species of time heists, counterfeits, and sabotage are not truffles generally categorized into uncommon. Truffle dogs are often kidnapped. black and white but only four are During harvest season in truffle producing sought after. For black, the desired regions of , police put up road blocks and species are aestivum vitt, search suspicious cars. and Tuber uncinatum which both at about $100 a pound, and , which costs

31 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu BLACK TRUFFLES VS. WHITE TRUFFLES: around $800. Only one white truffle BLACK species, pico, at around $4,000 dollars a pound, — Shelf life of 5-7 days is prized. Each truffle has its own — Cultivated in truffle plantations around flavor and aroma characteristics. the world

In truffle-producing areas, truffle — Black crusty exterior hunters keep locations secret and — Famously from the Perigor region of France poachers are severely punished but also found in Italy, , US, New Zealand, with heavy fines and jail sentences. The odds of finding black truffles and Australia. are somewhat increased by — Flavor is less than white but still strong the process of inoculating their into certain trees. “Truffle — $100 or $800 a pound depending on species Plantations” can produce slightly more per acre when compared to yield in the wild. This unfortunately WHITE is not the case for the more — Shelf life of 2-3 days flavorful and aromatic white truffle. Attempts to inoculate trees with — Strong flavor often described as cheesy, white truffle spores have failed garlicky, yeasty making them even rarer — and therefore much more costly. The — Cannot be propagated black truffle is harvested in Europe — Smooth, delicate, thin skin in the summer but now, with New Zealand and Australia producing — Found only in Italy — $4,000 a pound 32 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu truffles in their summers (North and truffle soy sauce. Their most won numerous prizes including American winters), more are popular product, Truffle Zest, is FABI 2017, an award given by the available year-round. White truffles also their newest. Truffle Zest is National Restaurant Association, are still available only in the winter. a powdered form of truffle. It is and is used in over ten recipes in low sodium, and gluten free and Oprah Winfrey’s Food, Health and Truffles not sold fresh are used can be sprinkled into sauces or Happiness cookbook. It has been for Sabatino Tartufi’s products on pizzas, even scrambled into featured in cooking segments on which include truffle , eggs. This patented product has The Chew and The Rachel Ray Show, and by Stephen Colbert. It is used both in foodservice and by consumers to easily and economically, give a dash of the flavor prized by chefs and gourmands the world over.

For a free sample, call (212) 920-4656 or email [email protected]

33 Santé Apertif Wines on the Menu Managing Your Restaurant’s Online Presence By Kim Laging

Good morning, Chef. Today you regardless of what fires need to be important thing to do is to will be asked to create delicious put out for the day. determine the best candidate to food, run the kitchen, order take on the task. Odds are there’s product, and make sure everyone Cultivating and maintaining someone in your restaurant that shows up for work. You also an online presence should be has an interest in social media. need to log on to your computer, considered an investment. You’ll It might be the chef or general monitor social media in real time, need to invest either time or money manager, but it could be the host, update your website, and answer (which, as we all know, is really the or one of your servers who’s taken all online inquiries. same thing). Your time is valuable. classes in communications. To Many tasks can be done in house some, the internet is confusing So while you’re doing this— who but advanced features probably and overwhelming. To the is stirring the sauce???? require professionals. At a minimum, bartender with a blog, it might be your restaurant should: business as usual. In the past, advertising for restaurants was simple and 1. Create a mobile responsive It is, however, important to optional. You didn’t have to be website and update regularly. remember: this is complicated. an expert. Your local paper or Technology is ever-changing. 2. Keep track of customers email radio would help design the New social media sites are and text information. ad. All you had to do was pay. launched all the time. All aspects Those days, my friend, are over. 3. Claim and start or continue social of your digital marketing efforts Today, successful restaurateurs media sites. should be tracked and used understand internet marketing to enhance future campaigns. must be done consistently For this option, the first and most Internet marketing software and

34 Santé Managing Your Restaurant's Online Presence Managing Your Restaurant’s Online Presence

outsourced online marketing is making machine. Several vendors burden of social media off your designed to work cohesively to offer software to help you track all plate so you can get back into the Today all restaurant operators must have: ensure that you deliver the right kinds of customer relationship data, kitchen and make sure the sauce message to the right customers even helping you remember to “Call is stirred! 1. A mobile responsive website (the major at the right time to influence their Mrs. Smith to rebook little Jimmy’s search engines rank you lower if not) purchasing habits. birthday party.” Kim Laging is a Channel Manager at Spillover Marketing. 2. An active marketing plan to build a loyal This is, likely, is more than your Marketing is a two-way street. She provides expert digital bartender with a blog can handle. Getting the word out is important. marketing for restaurants allowing customer base If there isn’t someone within your Hearing what’s being said about restaurateurs to focus on what’s organization who can reliably and your restaurant is even more critical. important; creating wonderful 3. A way to regularly communicate with professionally take on this task, One bad review can have more of meals and serving their guests. customers online consider bringing in outside help. an impact than ten great ones. Do you have an idea of the sentiment A successful online marketing circulating on the internet about 4. A system of collecting and effectively using effort requires specialized your restaurant? Do you know customer data. expertise. Many companies offer what’s is being said online about the benefits of a complete online your staff and your food? marketing department at a 5. Enough time to constantly update and fraction of the cost of a full-time If you can’t answer these questions, manage the entire scope of their online employee. There is technology maybe it’s time to consider bringing presence. available to turn your marketing in professional help. The best part efforts online into a money of hiring an expert? They take the

35 Santé Managing Your Restaurant's Online Presence RECAP: NRA & BAR 17 SHOWS

ew industry events compare like Tony Abou-Ganim, Brian At this conference, attendees know to the scale and scope Van Flandern and Charles Joly to bring comfortable shoes, a bag F of the annual National crowned Chad Brown the “Star for swag, and an appetite! Here are Restaurant Association show at of the Bar” for his Bitter Sweet some product highlights. McCormick Hall in Chicago, the cocktail, made with Armagnac, nation’s largest exhibition space. Kronan Swedish Punsch, Aperol, To see all the vendors that There are plenty of lectures and Cocchi Americano, and a dash of attended, check out the NRA’s events but the real reason to come Peychaud's Bitters website at nra.com is to see, and taste, all the products. Even with four days, it’s a challenge to visit every one of the more than 2,000 vendors representing more than 900 product categories.

Attendees had even more reason to celebrate this year. BAR 17, a show dedicated to all things alcoholic, ran alongside the NRA show giving attendees a taste of what’s new behind the bar. It showcased products, both alcoholic and not and hosted informational and entertaining sessions on The Main Stage. World renowned mixologists

36 Santé NRA & BAR 17 Recap 1 3

Everything from ingredients to 3 Forno Bravo technology to equipment to No need to hide your pizza oven in massage chairs to Chicago hot the back of the kitchen. Completely dogs were on display. Here is a customizable mosaic exteriors make recap of some of the standout these ovens works of art. Forno products that could take your Bravo pizza ovens are designed restaurant operation to the for pizzerias, restaurants, cafes next level. and caterers in a range of sizes and styles to meet virtually any restaurant requirement. 1 StockChiller www.fornobravo.com Safe soup and stock preparation is

vital to your kitchen’s success. With an ingenious design, StockChiller 4 Hestan can cool a five-gallon container Design a kitchen you’ll be proud 4 from 190F to 40F in eight minutes. to display. Choose your stations www.StockChiller.com from dozens of options and pick from 12 colors to match your decor. The Hestan Team has spent years 2 DishTemp By ThermoWorks listening to what chefs really want Designed to ride along with a 2 and have reinvented the restaurant load of dishes, the DishTemp kitchen with inventive and insightful Plate Simulating Dishwasher design. It is beautiful and functional. Tester accurately records the www.HestanCommercial.com max surface temperature in a commercial dishwasher. Engineered with molded-in, water-tight seals, it comes with a calibration certificate and a one- year warrantee. www.thermoworks.com

37 Santé NRA & BAR 17 Recap 1 QWater 4 Villeroy & Boch 5 1 Specifically designed for the Their new line, Amarah adds hospitality industry, Q water offers sensuous colors and distinctive a unique filtration system that filters artisan simplicity to modern tap water then dispenses Still and catering. It features a natural Sparkling Q water into reusable color scheme with a brushstroke glass decanters. Both economical look and earthy structures that and eye-catching. are reminiscent of the desert www.qwater.ca sun, plus porcelain designs with sculptural elegance that provide an enchanting contrast to the 2 AUS- by Solidteknics artisan style of the décor. Seamless one-piece Australian www.villeroy-boch.com commercial pans. Seamless 4 construction eliminates rivets, and joints for improved hygiene 5 Sorrento Plus Double and multi-generational durability. Wall Mugs by Zwilling Seasoned iron is all-natural and non- These mugs maintain the toasty stick with no coating to break down. temperature of hot beverages and This pan is indestructible and has a keep cool drinks at temperature multi-century warranty. for a long time. They’re mouth- www.newmetrodesign.com blown by skilled artisans and constructed of high quality, durable, borosilicate glass. 3 Luminara They’re microwave, freezer, and Candles offer a flattering glow but 2 3 dishwasher safe. lighting votives is time consuming www.zwilling.com and may be hazardous. These rechargeable tea-lights have flames that dance and flicker realistically. A charging base holds up to 48 lights. With integrated timers and a remote control, these tea-lights are both beautiful and convenient. www.Luminara.com

38 Santé NRA & BAR 17 Recap 1 2

1 Kafa Forest Coffee by 3 Truffle Zest Lavazza by Sabtino Tartufi This unique single origin product This 2017 FABI award winner has an is grown in uncontaminated intense truffle flavor. This versatile and naturally fertile soil. Coffee powder can be sprinkled or mixed cherries are chose by hand. A into everything from pasta to new roasting process guarantees chicken and sauces to soups. It is a perfectly round cup. gluten free, Non GMO, No MSG, and www.lavazza.com Allergen Free. 4 www.sabatinotruffles.com

2 Beyond Meat This 2017 FABI award winner is 4 AUI Fruit Chips & 100% plant protein but looks, Chocolate cooks, and satisfies like real AUI’s collections include everything ground beef. It is cholesterol-free, you need to put a perfect and 3 gluten-free, GMO-free and 100% dramatic finishing touch on dishes delicious. both savory and sweet. From white www.beyondmeat.com chocolate maple leaves that look like they were plucked from a tree to translucent fruit chips, and crunchy freeze-dried fruits that pack a of flavor. secure.auifinefoods.com

39 Santé NRA & BAR 17 Recap 3 1

BAR 17

1 Get Hot Tequila 3 Brooklyn Organics Leave the salt and lime to the other Ginger Ale brands. Get Hot Tequila brings you USDA organic, Kosher, low-calorie, quality and premium flavor that doesn’t zero , non-GMO, and caffeine need garnishing. This 100% agave, free. A zingy ginger ale with a habanero-infused tequila reposado, is good bite in five new flavors. 4 perfectly balanced and perfectly spicy. Gently sweetened with plant- www.gethottequila.com based Stevia. www.drinkbrooklynorganics.com

2 Smokin’ Mary Bloody Mary Mix 4 Cognac Maxime A combination of garden-fresh TRIJOL USA tomatoes, a blend of savory spices, and With amber flashes of mahogany 2 a hint of hardwood smoke blends into and a floral bouquet that develops a deliciously different Bloody Mary mix. into spicy aromas on the palate, It’s extra-thick consistency makes it a this multiple award winning great cooking ingredient. cognac is rich, complex and the www.smokinmary.com perfect end to any meal. www.maxime-trijol.com

40 Santé NRA & BAR 17 Recap WCR Conference 2017 Women Chefs & Restaurateurs Gather To Eat, Drink, and Lead at National Conference By Melanie Young

iversity, gender equality and mentoring and fostering leadership Ladies of the Civil War to the Cattle building leadership roles for roles for women. Queen of Texas. D women were key topics at this year’s Women Chefs & Restaurateurs Veena Prashad, founder of Project Educational and business Conference May 6-8 in Seattle. The Feast, discussed the role of food empowerment sessions were on the conference theme, “Join Us at the as an important cultural connector menu during day two at the Seattle Table: Eat, Drink, & Lead,” set the for building bridges of acceptance Central Culinary Academy. Legal tone for inspiring speeches and and shared examples of how her expert Wendy McGuire Coats, Fisher presentations to address key issues nonprofit creates meaningful & Phillips LLP, addressed negotiation faced by females in the industry. The programs to train and employ skills in the workplace. Ti Adelaide all-women roster of guest speakers refugees and immigrants for roles in Martin, co-owner of Commander’s included leading restaurateurs, chefs, the food industry, noting “We are all Palace in New Orleans, discussed legal experts, designers, marketers, bonded together by humanity.” creating a brand and building a educators, activists and historians. legacy. Dawn Fitzgerald, Senior Food historian Ana Kinkaid Director of Marketing Services at James Beard Award-winning underscored that “women in the Sysco Corporate, shared the latest Chef Maria Hines, whose Seattle food business have been the technology trends for running a restaurants include Tilth, Agrodolce bedrock of our country.” Her successful hospitality business. and Young American Ale House, gave presentation, The Green Tureen, The issues of tipping policies and the keynote opening speech on day provided examples of the many staffing shortages featured a panel one at the W Seattle Hotel. Maria roles of women in food and its with Amanda Cohen, Dirt Candy, shared her professional journey from economy throughout America’s New York; Karen Neugebauer, Forte kitchen worker to restaurant owner history, from the she-merchants of Chocolates; and Jessica Largey, and emphasized the importance of Dutch New Amsterdam to the Cake Simone, Los Angeles, moderated

(right) Leslie Mackie, Owner of Macrina Baker, in Seattle is shown with a volunteer. Photo credit: Melanie Young 41 Santé WCR Conference 2017 by Angela Stowell, CEO, Ethan Ranch in Malibu, provided tips to generous food presentations by Stowell Restaurants, Seattle. An create healthy plant-based dishes. sponsors including FOH (Front of afternoon of individual and group Chef Natasha MacAller, author of the House), Sysco, Callebaut and mentoring sessions provided Spice Health Heroes, prepared spice- many other sponsors collaborating attendees the chance to hear from infused healthy twists to cooking with local chefs. The opening night thought leaders and experts who with Idaho potatoes. Seattle-based party at the W Hotel showcased share their experiences and advice. mixologist Kathy Casey discussed women chefs from the Pacific beverage trends, and pastry chefs Northwest and winemakers from Sustainability, healthy eating, Natasha Capper and Eleanor Woodinville Country. Attendees and food trends were covered Chow Waterfall presented fresh also glammed it up for the cameras in several sessions. Chefs Xinh interpretations for contemporary with complimentary professional Dwelley, Xinh’s Clam and Oyster desserts. headshots provided by Chefs Roll House, and Diani Taylor of during day one. family run Taylor Shellfish Farms While the topics were serious, demonstrated how to prepare a there were plenty of breaks and One of the perennially popular variety of shellfish dishes. Nina opportunities for some light-hearted events is Food Games led by Chef Curtis, Executive Chef at The imbibing and networking thanks to Elizabeth Falkner with Chef Maria Hines, which took place on day one. Three teams of chefs went head to head in a friendly cooking competition led by celebrity Capital Cider; Deb Taylor, Staple Chefs and Restaurants stands chef coaches. Judges included and Fancy and others. A chocolate for: , advancement, Mixologist Kathy Casey; Vintner dessert extravaganza featured and connection of women in Nina Buty, Buty Winery; and Leslie a decadent selection of gelatos, the culinary industry. For more Mackie, Macrina Bakery. brownies, cupcake, truffles and even information visit The grand finale was SEAttle to chocolate-shaped fish. www.womenchefs.org. Table, a reception at the Seattle Aquarium sponsored by Callebaut, A defining moment at the — Melanie Young has spent more Sysco and Koerner. It featured 20 closing party was a pop-up than 25 years working in food, female chefs and pastry chefs from auction that raised more than wine and hospitality and is Co the including $17,000 in donations for the Host of the iHeart Radio show, The Tamara Murphy, Terra Plata; Zoi organization’s scholarship program Connected Table LIVE! Antonitsas, JarrBar; Julie Tall, and underscored what Women

(top) Veena Prasad, Founder/Executive Director, Project Feast (left) Tamara Murphy, Chef. Terra Plata Photo credit: Melanie Young WCR Conference 2017 Santé 42 Readings

Although most wine books are written and rarely use perfume or cologne. by industry insiders, Bianca Bosker They are not, however, “super tasters.” started this book as a “civilian,” the Almost anyone, she claims, willing to term sommeliers reserve for those with engage in constant training can learn to limited wine knowledge. This memoir distinguish the subtle differences in acid, recounts her yearlong quest to become alcohol, sugar, and chemical compounds a “somm,” a mission some found in a wine. But this is just the beginning. worrisome. “When you inform your “Tasting” includes not just physical friends and relatives that you have left senses but also contextual knowledge your stable job as a journalist to stay of everything from grapes, terroir, and home and taste wines,” she writes, “you winemaking method, to how the wine will begin to get concerned phone calls.” is served. “Wine expertise comes by to calibrate “mineral.” Yes, this happens. With the tone thus set, the reader is paying attention, sensing clearly, and “We savor with our minds,” notes Bosker. taken immediately into the wine world. then imposing meaning onto those She describes how the service, the fellow A sommelier competition was, “…like the physical sensations… To appreciate all the diners, the location, and the occasion are Dork Westminster Dog Show, with booze…” subtleties of wine, it’s important not just all as important as the wine itself. Working She describes her failures at spitting, to be a super taster, but to be a at a Manhattan wine bar, Bosker distills this A wine-fueled adventure among opening a bottle, and pouring, and she super-thinker.” into her goal: “…each night at Terroir, it was obsessive sommeliers, big bottle learns why somms are so obsessive my chance to take people on a journey of hunters, and rogue scientists who about what they do. Bosker guides the reader through the their own.” taught me to live for taste cascade of metaphors that somms use Somms work 60 hour weeks, meet to describe flavors, like saddle leather, “Unleashing your senses,” Bosker writes, By Bianca Bosker on days off for blind tastings, deny forest floor, freshly mown grass, baked “begins by just paying attention and Review by Tod Dimmick themselves foods with strong flavors, earth, and mineral. Imagine licking rocks applying yourself with gusto.”

43 Santé Readings: Cork Dork SantéExposé

Just outside of Atlanta, there’s an attraction need treats, too. At the petting zoo we were the stars called Stone Mountain. While the main draw of of the show as we quickly dispatched our carrots and Stone Mountain is a giant carving of the Confederate celery then handed off the rest to the kids around leaders on the face of a huge granite outcropping, us. We were, however, mostly excited to feed the many attractions had sprung up around it. In the mountain lions. We made our way to their enclosure, early 1990’s, there was a zoo with a petting zoo. At opened the package containing the beef tenderloin the time, I worked at a fine dining restaurant in and tossed it over the moat and into their cage. While downtown Atlanta. One beautiful spring day, the it was magnificent watching those large cats tear at Executive Sous Chef, the Pastry Chef, and I (lead that tenderloin, what I will remember most is the cook) were all hanging out. As it was Sunday and Pastry Chef walking around that petting zoo with a restaurant was closed, we decided to take a trip out full tenderloin stuffed down his pants. to Stone Mountain. Having started our Sunday with — Anonymous. a couple of cocktails and a few other things, we felt we should not go empty-handed. We went to the restaurant and grabbed carrots, stalks of celery, and Send your story (anonymous or not!) to: a whole beef tenderloin, because the mountain lions [email protected]

44 Santé Exposé Plus 00 A Brief History of Santé 00 Rosé Takes Flight Rosé 00 How Not to Get Sued 17 00 Lightening up the Menu Takes Flight and More

Creating a Restaurant Entree by Harvest Featured on pg 00 Plus that Endures 06 A Brief History of Santé Harvest Restaurant 12 Creating a Restaurant that Endures 08 Rosé & Charcuterie by Flight Wine Bar 30 Lightening up the Menu Featured on pg 19 and More

Volume 1, Issue 1 Volume 1, Issue 1 May 2017 May 2017 www.gourmetbusiness.com www.gourmetbusiness.com Santé Submissions Santé is on the look out for industry professionals to contribute features.

Do you have a story to tell? Do you dabble with writing about food and beverage? Share it with Santé. If we like your pitch, we’ll help you develop it for publication. For our Santé Exposé column, we want in-the-trenches stories from cooks, bartenders, managers, and waitstaff.

Tell us the best of your worst. The stories that are hard to believe are always the most fun to read!

[email protected] Upcoming Industry Events

Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show Winter Fancy Food Show September 10 - 12, 2017, Orange County Convention Center, January 21 - 23, 2018, Moscone Center, San Francisco Orlando, Florida

International Restaurant & Foodservice Show FStec 2017 of New York September 17 - 19, 2017, Anaheim Marriott, Anaheim, California March 4 - 6, 2018, NYC Javits Center, New York, New York

MUFSO 2017 Nightclub & Bar Convention/Trade show October 1 - 3, 2017, Hyatt Regency Reunion, Dallas, TX March 26 - 28, 2018, Las Vegas, NV

HFTP Annual Convention 2017 Women Chefs & Restaurateurs National October 25 - 27, 2017, Omni Orlando Resort, Orlando, FL Conference April 21 - 23, 2018, Minneapolis, MN

18th Conference on LGBT & Hospitality November 1 - 3, 2017, 2017, The Park Central, San Francisco Craft Brewer’s Conference & Brew Expo April 30 - May 3, 2018, Nashville, TN

Restaurant Finance & Development Conference November 13 - 15, 2017, Cosmopolitan Las Vegas, Las Vegas, Nevada

46 Santé Upcoming Industry Events