Contents2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

EDINBURGH

NEIL WILSON Contents

Plan Your Trip Welcome to ...... 4 Top Sights...... 6 Eating...... 10 Drinking...... 12 Shopping...... 14 Museums & Galleries...... 16 Festivals & Events...... 18 Architecture...... 20 Views...... 22 For Kids...... 23 Tours...... 24 Activities...... 25 Four Perfect Days...... 26 Need to Know...... 28 Edinburgh Neighbourhoods...... 30

Exterior of the Building (p74) CORNFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK © 3

Explore Survival Edinburgh 33 Guide 161 Old Town...... 35 Before You Go...... 162 Holyrood & Arriving in Edinburgh...... 163 Arthur’s Seat...... 71 Getting Around...... 164 New Town...... 85 Essential Information.....165 West End & Dean Village...... 111 Stockbridge...... 123 Special Features ...... 135 ...... 36 South Edinburgh...... 147 Real Mary King’s Close...... 40 Worth a Trip National Museum Rosslyn Chapel...... 158 of ...... 42 Palace of Holyroodhouse...... 72 Scottish Parliament Building...... 74 Scottish National Portrait Gallery...... 86 ...... 88 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art..... 112 Royal Botanic Garden.... 124 Royal Yacht Britannia.... 136 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Edinburgh

Edinburgh is one of Britain’s most beautiful and dramatic cities, with its castle perched on the summit of ancient crags and the medieval maze of the Old Town gazing across verdant gardens to the elegant Georgian squares and streetscapes of the New Town. History and architecture are leavened with vibrant bars, innovative restaurants and Scotland’s most stylish shops. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights PHOTOFIRES/SHUTTERSTOCK Plan Your TripPlan © Top Sights

Edinburgh Castle Scotland’s most popular tourist attraction. p36 7

RODOLFO CONTRERAS/ALAMY Real Mary King’s Close Lost world beneath the streets. p40 © Plan Your TripPlan

National Top Sights Museum of Scotland Treasure house of Scottish culture. p42 FRANCESCO RICCIARDI EXP/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Edinburgh Neighbourhoods

Royal Yacht New Town (p85) E# Stockbridge (p123) Georgian terraces lined with Britannia A former village designer boutiques, wine with its own distinct bars and cocktail lounges, identity, stylish and plus Princes Street Gardens quirky shops and a and the perfect viewpoint of good choice of pubs .

and restaurants. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Royal Botanic1 1 Garden 1 1 1 1 1 E# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish National 1 1 1 West End & Dean 1 1 Portrait Gallery 1 1 1 E# Village (p111) 1 1 1 1 1 More Georgian elegance 1 1 Real Mary 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish1 Palac e of 1 1 1 # and upmarket shops, Scottish 1 1 1 1 1 E 1 1 1 Princes King's ParliamentE# Holyroodhouse leading down to the National # 1 1 Street Close 1 E1 1 E# Bu1ilding picturesque Dean Village Gallery of E# Gardens # in the wooded valley of the Modern Art E National 1 E# Museum of Water of Leith. Edinburgh1 1 Castle 1 Scotland 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 South Edinburgh (p147)1 1 A peaceful residential1 area1 1 1 1 1 1 of Victorian tenement flats 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 and spacious garden villa; 1 1 1 not much in the way of 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 tourist attractions, but good 1 1 walking territory and many 1 1 1 1 1 1 good restaurants and pubs. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Edinburgh Neighbourhoods

Leith (p135) Redeveloped Royal Yacht industrial docklands E# Britannia now occupied by restaurants, bars and Ocean Terminal, the city’s biggest shopping centre.

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Royal Botanic1 1 Garden 1 1 1 1 1 E# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish National 1 1 1 1 1 Portrait Gallery 1 1 1 E# Holyrood & Arthur’s 1 1 1 Seat1 1(p71) 1 1 Real Mary 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish1 Palac e of 1 1 1 # At the foot of the Royal Scottish 1 1 1 1 1 E 1 1 1 Princes King's ParliamentE# Holyroodhouse 1 1 1 Mile, contains the Scottish National # Street # Close E1 1 E Bu1ilding Parliament and the Palace Gallery of Gardens E# Modern Art E# National of Holyroodhuose, and is 1 E# the gateway to the craggy Edinburgh1 1 Museu m of Castle 1 Scotland parkland of Arthur’s Seat. 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Old Town (p35) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 A maze of narrow wynds 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (alleys) and cobbled 1 1 1 streets, strung out along 1 1 1 1 1 1 the , home to 1 1 the city’s main historical 1 1 1 1 1 1 sights. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Explore Edinburgh

Old Town...... 35

Holyrood & Arthur’s Seat...... 71

New Town...... 85

West End & Dean Village...... 111

Stockbridge...... 123

Leith...... 135

South Edinburgh...... 147

Worth a Trip g Rosslyn Chapel...... 158

Edinburgh’s Walking Tours c Explore the Old Town’s Hidden History...... 46

From Castle to Palace...... 48

A Walk Through ...... 76

Charlotte Square to Calton Hill...... 90

New Town Shopping...... 92

A Sunday Stroll Around Stockbridge...... 126

Colourful Victoria Street, Old Town (p35) JAMES HEATLIE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 35 Explore Y Old Town Edinburgh’s Old Town is a jagged, jumbled maze of historic masonry riddled with closes, stairs, vaults and wynds (narrow alleys) leading off the cobbled ravine of the Royal Mile, which links Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The restored 16th- and 17th-century Old Town tenements support a thriving city-centre community, crammed at street level with museums, restaurants, bars and shops.

Be at Edinburgh Castle (p36) for opening time, and plan on spending two hours exploring its many at- tractions before heading downhill along the Royal Mile, stopping off as the fancy takes you at the Scotch Whisky Experience (p52) and the Camera Obscura (p52) before enjoying a seafood lunch at Ondine (p56). Join a tour of the Real Mary King’s Close (p40) then spend the rest of the afternoon at the National Mu- seum of Scotland (p42). Get your photo taken beside the statue of (p55) before heading down to the (p47) for a drink, then dinner with a view at the Tower (p59).

Getting There & Around J Service 300 runs along the lower part of the Royal Mile from South Bridge to the Palace of Holyroodhouse; bus 6 links Hanover St in the New Town to the Scottish Parliament Building via Market St, St Mary’s St and Holyrood Rd. Buses 23, 27, 41, 42 and 67 run along the Mound and George IV Bridge.

Neighbourhood Map on p50

Grassmarket area JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sight A

Edinburgh Castle 1 MAP P50, A4 The brooding black crags of Castle Rock, rising www.edinburghcastle. above the western end of Princes St, are the very gov.uk reason for Edinburgh’s existence. This rocky hill Castle Esplanade was the most easily defended hilltop on the inva- sion route between England and central Scotland. adult/child £18.50/11.50, audioguide £3.50/£1.50 Today it is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric and popular tourist attractions. h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar, last entry 1hr before closing g23, 27, 41, 42, 67 Walking Tour c From Castle to Palace Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse Walk Facts and the Scottish Parliament are what make Start Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Scotland’s capital. This walk links the End Palace of city’s most iconic sights by following (mostly) Holyroodhouse the Royal Mile, the ancient processional route Length 1.5 miles; one hour followed by kings and queens travelling between castle and palace.

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0 400 m e# 0 0.2 miles ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 169 Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating p171 6 Drinking p172 3 Entertainment p173 7 Shopping p173

A see also Collective/City Edinburgh resurrection men Observatory 97 International accessible travel book sculptures 82 costs 28, 166 Festival 18 165-6 Broughton 104 47 Edinburgh Sculpture accommodation 162-3 budget, see costs Cramond 141 Workshop 139 activities 25, see also Burke, William 55, 81 currency 28, 166 Edinburgh Waverley individual activities Train Station 163 Burns Monument 81 cycling 25, 165 Adam, Robert 20, 96, Edinburgh Zoo 97 98, 125 Burns, Robert 53, 56, 81 electricity 166 airport 163 D bus tours 24, 139 emergencies 165 Animal World 43 dangers, see safety entertainment, see bus travel 164 Index Anne Street 127 Dean Bridge 115 Entertainment business hours 166 Apprentice Pillar 159 Dean Village 115 subindex, 96 architecture 20-1 Dean Village area, see individual neighbourhoods area codes 167 West End C events 18-19 Arthur’s Seat 79, disabilities, travellers with 165-6 80, 76 Calton Hill 97 Arthur’s Seat area, Camera Obscura & 56 F see Holyrood World of Illusions Dr Neil’s Garden 79 festivals 18-19 ATMs 166 52-3 drinking 12-13, see Floatarium Spa Canongate Kirkyard also Drinking 129-30 subindex, B 56 Flodden Wall 47 car travel 165 individual bars 12-13, see also Floral Clock 89 Castle Esplanade 37 neighbourhoods Drinking subindex food 10-11, see cell phones 28, 168 Kirk bathrooms 168 80-1 also Eating 96 subindex, beer 12 Duddingston children, travel with 23 individual Biscuit Factory Village 77 neighbourhoods 139-40 56 City of the Dead 54 Fruitmarket Blackford Hill 151 99-100 Gallery 66 boat cruises 155 climate 162 body snatchers 45, 81, clubs, see Drinking, E Entertainment G subindexes Edinburgh Castle galleries 16-17 36-9, 38 cocktails 13 gay travellers 104 Sights 000 Edinburgh Festival Cockburn St 69 ’s Map Pages 000 Fringe 18 School 47, 127 170

George IV Bridge 60 food 81-2 Millennium Clock entertainment 65-7 George Street 91 itineraries 76-7, 76 Tower 43 food 56-7, 59-62 Georgian House 96 sights 72-5, 79-81 miniature coffins 81 itineraries 46-7, ghost tours 54 transport 71 mobile phones 28, 168 48-9, 46, 48 Gilmerton Cove 150 walks 76-7, 76 money 28, 166-7 history 58, 60 Gladstone’s Land 53 73 moneychanging 166-7 shopping 67-9 Gloucester Lane 127 Holyrood Park 80 Mons Meg 38 sights 36-45, 52-6 golfing 25 Honours of monuments 21 transport 35 Grand Gallery Scotland 39 motorcycle travel 165 walks 46-7, 48-9, (National Hutton’s Section 77 Museum of 46, 48 52 One O’Clock Gun Scotland) 43 I museums 16-17 37, 102 Grassmarket 47 music 64, see also opening hours 166 itineraries 26-7, see grave robbers 55 Entertainment also individual Our Dynamic Earth subindex Great Gallery neighbourhoods 80 (Palace of Holyroodhouse) N P 73 J National Great Hall Jacob’s Ladder 77 Palace of Monument 98 Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh John Hope Gateway National Museum of 72-3 Castle) 38 125 Scotland 42-5 parks 88-9, 124-5 Great Hall (Scottish 54 Index National Portrait Nelson Monument 97 Parliament Hall 56 New Town 85-109, Gallery) 87 L People’s Story 54 Green Man 159 94-5 Princes Street 14 language 28 Greyfriars Bobby drinking 103-5, 107 Princes Street Statue 55 Lawnmarket 58 entertainment 107-8 Gardens 88-9 54 Leith 135-45, 138 food 100-3 Prisons of War drinking 142-4 history 98 Exhibition 38 47, 55 food 140-2, 143 itineraries 90-1, public holidays 167 shopping 144-5 92-3, 90, 92 pubs 12-13, see also H sights 136-7, 139 shopping 92-3, Drinking subindex 108-9 haggis 10 transport 135 sights 86-9, 96-100 Q Hare, William 55, 81 Leith Links 139 transport 85 Heriot Row 91 literature 106 Queen’s Drive 77 walks 90-1, 92-3, Hermitage House 151 live music venues, Queen’s Gallery 80 see Entertainment 90, 92 Hermitage of Braid subindex nightlife 12-13, see 151 R also Drinking, highlights 6-9 M Entertainment Radical Road 77 hiking 80 subindexes Raeburn Place 127 history 58, 60, 98 markets 15, 116 Rankin, Ian 81, 91, Hogmanay 19 Mary, Queen of O 106, 107 Scots 73 holidays 167 Real Mary King’s Meadows, The 150 Old Calton Burial Holyrood 71-83, 78 Ground 98-9 Close 40-1 Melville restaurants, see drinking 82-3 Old Town 35-69, Monument 91, 99 50-1 Eating subindex entertainment 83 drinking 62-5 171 resurrection men South Edinburgh 147- T entertainment 55, see also body 57, 148-9 119-20 snatchers drinking 154-6 taxis 164-5 food 115-18 Ross Bandstand 89 entertainment 156-7 telephone services shopping 120-1 167-8 Rosslyn Chapel 158-9 food 151-4 sights 112-13, 115 tenements 58 Royal Botanic shopping 157 transport 111 time 28 Garden 124-5 transport 147 West End churches tipping 167 Royal Mile 58 Spark, Muriel 106 89 Royal Scottish toilets 168 St Andrew Square 99 whisky bars 13, see Academy 96 top sights 6-9, see also Drinking St Anthony’s Chapel Royal Yacht also individual subindex 77 Britannia 136-7 neighbourhoods Writers’ Museum 53 St Bernard’s Well tourist information 127, 129 S 168 Z St Cuthbert’s Parish tours 24, 54 safety 167 Church 89 zoos 97 trams 164 Scotch Whisky St Giles Cathedral Experience 52 49, 52, 64 transport 29, 163, 164-5 5 Scotsman Steps 66 St John’s Church 89 Eating 89 St Margaret’s Chapel U Scottish National 37 A Gallery 96 St Margaret’s underground vaults Aizle 151 60 Scottish National Loch 77 Amber 61 Index Gallery of Modern St Margaret’s Well 77 Union Canal 155 Art 112-13 St Stephen Street B Scottish National 127 V Portrait Gallery Bon Vivant 102-3 Stevenson, Robert vegetarian 86-7 Brew Lab 152 Louis 53, 91, 106 travellers 11 Scottish Parliament Buffalo Grill 153 Stockbridge 123-33, Victoria Terrace 47 Building 74-5 128 viewpoints 22 Scottish Poetry drinking 131-2 C Library 81 visas 28, 168 food 130-1 Café at the Palace 73 seafood 11 shopping 132-3 Cafe Milk 118 shopping 14-15, see W sights 124-5, 129 Cafe Modern One 113 also Shopping walking tours 24, 25 transport 123 Cafe 113 subindex, Holyrood Park walks 126-7, Cafe Portrait 87 individual 126 76-7, 76 neighbourhoods Stockbridge New Town 90-1, Cannonball Colonies 127 Restaurant 57 Shore, The 139 92-3, 90, 92 Castle Terrace 115 Sir 106 Stockbridge Market Old Town 46-7, 48-9, 127 Chop House Leith 141 South Bridge 60 46, 48 Stone of Destiny 39 South Bridge Vaults Stockbridge 126-7, Contini 100 47 150 126 Surgeons’ Hall Water of Leith 113, D Museums 150 130 David Bann 60 weather 162 Dishoom 100 Sights 000 West End 111-21, 114 Dogs 87 Map Pages 000 drinking 118-19 Dome 101-2 172

E N U H Edinburgh Farmers Market 116 Nok’s Kitchen 131 Urban Angel 100 Hemma 82 Number One 101 Holyrood 9A 64 W F I O Wedgwood 59 Field Southside 152 Indigo Yard 118 First Coast 151-2 Ondine 56-7 White Horse Oyster & Seafood Bar 59 Fishers Bistro 140 J P Wings 61 Witchery by the Jolly Judge 64 G Paul Kitching 21212 Joseph Pearce’s 104 101 Castle 59 Gardener’s Cottage 100 Pitt 141 K 6Drinking Gateway Restaurant Kay’s Bar 131 127 Q A Kenilworth 107 Gordon’s Trattoria 41 Quay Commons 142 Abbotsford 105 Kilderkin 82-3 H R Antiquary 131 L Henderson’s 103 Rhubarb 81-2 Auld Hoose 155 Last Word Saloon 131 Henri of Edinburgh 130 Royal Deck Tea Room 137 B Lioness of Leith 143 Liquid Room 64

Index I Bailie Bar 131-2 S Lucky Liquor Co 104 Ivy on the Square 102 Bennet’s Bar 154 Blue Blazer 118 Scottish Cafe & M K Restaurant 103 Bongo Club 62 Scott’s Kitchen 60 Bramble 104 Malt Shovel 64-5 Kalpna 153 Scran & Scallie 130 Brauhaus 155 Kanpai Sushi 115-16 Seasons 103 BrewDog 62-3 N Kitchin 140 Serrano & Manchego Nobles 144 142 C L Shebeen 116 Cabaret Voltaire 62 O La P’tite Folie 117 Shore 141 Café Royal Circle Oxford Bar 107 L’Escargot Blanc 116 Söderberg (The Bar 103 Locanda de Gusti 151 Meadows) 152 Caley Sample Room P Loudon’s 152 155 Paradise Palms 64 Lovecrumbs 117 T Canny Man’s 156 Pear Tree House 155 Taisteal 130 Carriers Quarters Port O’Leith 144 M Tea Rooms at 143-4 Edinburgh Castle CC Blooms 104 Maison Bleue at R Home 116 37 Checkpoint 63-4 Martin Wishart 140 Terrace Cafe 125 Clark’s Bar 105 Regent 83 Maxie’s Bistro 62 Timberyard 115 Cumberland Bar 107 Roseleaf 142-3 McKirdy’s Steakhouse Tower 59 Royal Dick 154 116-17 Tuk Tuk 153-4 G Mums 57-9 Twelve Triangles 140 Ghillie Dhu 118-19 Museum Brasserie 43 Guildford Arms 104 173

S Summerhall 156 G Mr Wood’s Fossils 69 120 Museum Context 69 Salt Horse Beer Shop Galerie Mirages 133 120 & Bar 63 Geoffrey (Tailor) Voodoo Rooms 108 O Sandy Bell’s 62 Inc 68 Whistle Binkie’s 66 82 Godiva 68 Ocean Terminal 145 Sofi’s 143 Golden Hare Books Stockbridge Tap 131 7Shopping 132 P Sygn 119 Palenque 109 21st Century Kilts 93 H Pie in the Sky 69 T A Hannah Zakari 68 Teuchters Landing 144 Harvey Nichols 93 R Alchemia 93 Tigerlily 107 Ragamuffin 68 Alistir Wood Tait 93 I Royal Mile Whiskies 67 V Annie Smith 133 Ian Mellis 133 Voyage of Buck 118 Armstrong’s 67 S Assai Records 120-1 J Scottish Gallery 109 3Entertainment B 93 Sheila Fleet 132 Bannerman’s 66 Stockbridge Market Backbeat 157 John Lewis 109 66-7 132 Bill Baber 67-8 Joyce Forsyth Cameo 157 Designer Knitwear Blackwell’s Bookshop 68-9 U Index Caves 65 68 Edinburgh Festival Underground Solush’n K Theatre 157 C 69 Edinburgh Folk Kilberry Bagpipes 69 Cookie 69 Club 83 Kinloch Anderson 144 V Filmhouse 119 Covet 93 Valvona & Crolla 108 Henry’s Cellar Bar 120 Cruise 93 L Jam House 107 Curiouser and Liam Ross 121 W Jazz Bar 66 Curiouser 108 Life Story 108 Wonderland 121 King’s Theatre 157 D Lighthouse 157 120 Dick’s 132 M 120 F McNaughtan’s Bookshop 109 Royal Oak 65 Flea Market 145 Meadows Pottery 157 Stand Comedy Club Flux 144 108 Miss Bizio 132 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 176 Our Writers

Neil Wilson Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guide- books for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snow- boarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Our WritersOur Contributing writer: Sophie McGrath

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