Pocket Edinburgh 5
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Contents2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd EDINBURGH NEIL WILSON Contents Plan Your Trip Welcome to Edinburgh.......4 Top Sights ............................6 Eating .................................10 Drinking..............................12 Shopping ............................14 Museums & Galleries .......16 Festivals & Events .............................18 Architecture ..................... 20 Views ................................. 22 For Kids ............................. 23 Tours .................................. 24 Activities ........................... 25 Four Perfect Days ............ 26 Need to Know ................... 28 Edinburgh Neighbourhoods .............. 30 Exterior of the Scottish Parliament Building (p74) CORNFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK © 3 Explore Survival Edinburgh 33 Guide 161 Old Town ........................... 35 Before You Go .................162 Holyrood & Arriving in Edinburgh .....163 Arthur’s Seat ..................... 71 Getting Around .............. 164 New Town .......................... 85 Essential Information ....165 West End & Dean Village ......................111 Stockbridge .....................123 Special Features Leith ..................................135 Edinburgh Castle ............. 36 South Edinburgh .............147 Real Mary King’s Close ......................40 Worth a Trip National Museum Rosslyn Chapel ...............158 of Scotland ....................... 42 Palace of Holyroodhouse .................72 Scottish Parliament Building..........74 Scottish National Portrait Gallery ................ 86 Princes Street Gardens ............................. 88 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art .... 112 Royal Botanic Garden ... 124 Royal Yacht Britannia.... 136 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Edinburgh Edinburgh is one of Britain’s most beautiful and dramatic cities, with its castle perched on the summit of ancient crags and the medieval maze of the Old Town gazing across verdant gardens to the elegant Georgian squares and streetscapes of the New Town. History and architecture are leavened with vibrant bars, innovative restaurants and Scotland’s most stylish shops. PHOTOFIRES/SHUTTERSTOCK © p36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Publications Planet ©Lonely Edinburgh Castle attraction. popular tourist most Scotland’s Top Sights Top 6 Plan Your Trip Top Sights 7 RODOLFO CONTRERAS/ALAMY CONTRERAS/ALAMY RODOLFO Real Mary King’s Close Lost world beneath the streets. p40 © Plan Trip Your National Sights Top Museum of Scotland Treasure house of Scottish culture. p42 FRANCESCO RICCIARDI EXP/SHUTTERSTOCK EXP/SHUTTERSTOCK RICCIARDI FRANCESCO © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Edinburgh Neighbourhoods Royal Yacht New Town (p85) E# Stockbridge (p123) Georgian terraces lined with Britannia A former village designer boutiques, wine with its own distinct bars and cocktail lounges, identity, stylish and plus Princes Street Gardens quirky shops and a and the perfect viewpoint of good choice of pubs Calton Hill. and restaurants. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Royal Botanic1 1 Garden 1 1 1 1 1 E# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish National 1 1 1 West End & Dean 1 1 Portrait Gallery 1 1 1 E# Village (p111) 1 1 1 1 1 More Georgian elegance 1 1 Real Mary 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish1 Palac e of 1 1 1 # and upmarket shops, Scottish 1 1 1 1 1 E 1 1 1 Princes King's ParliamentE# Holyroodhouse leading down to the National # 1 1 Street Close 1 E1 1 E# Bu1ilding picturesque Dean Village Gallery of E# Gardens # in the wooded valley of the Modern Art E National 1 E# Museum of Water of Leith. Edinburgh1 1 Castle 1 Scotland 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 South Edinburgh (p147)1 1 A peaceful residential1 area1 1 1 1 1 1 of Victorian tenement flats 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 and spacious garden villa; 1 1 1 not much in the way of 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 tourist attractions, but good 1 1 walking territory and many 1 1 1 1 1 1 good restaurants and pubs. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Edinburgh Neighbourhoods Leith (p135) Redeveloped Royal Yacht industrial docklands E# Britannia now occupied by restaurants, bars and Ocean Terminal, the city’s biggest shopping centre. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Royal Botanic1 1 Garden 1 1 1 1 1 E# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish National 1 1 1 1 1 Portrait Gallery 1 1 1 E# Holyrood & Arthur’s 1 1 1 Seat1 1(p71) 1 1 Real Mary 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Scottish1 Palac e of 1 1 1 # At the foot of the Royal Scottish 1 1 1 1 1 E 1 1 1 Princes King's ParliamentE# Holyroodhouse 1 1 1 Mile, contains the Scottish National # Street # Close E1 1 E Bu1ilding Parliament and the Palace Gallery of Gardens E# Modern Art E# National of Holyroodhuose, and is 1 E# the gateway to the craggy Edinburgh1 1 Museu m of Castle 1 Scotland parkland of Arthur’s Seat. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Old Town (p35) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 A maze of narrow wynds 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (alleys) and cobbled 1 1 1 streets, strung out along 1 1 1 1 1 1 the Royal Mile, home to 1 1 the city’s main historical 1 1 1 1 1 1 sights. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Explore Edinburgh Old Town ..........................................................35 Holyrood & Arthur’s Seat ..............................71 New Town .........................................................85 West End & Dean Village ............................. 111 Stockbridge ................................................... 123 Leith ................................................................ 135 South Edinburgh .......................................... 147 Worth a Trip g Rosslyn Chapel ........................................................ 158 Edinburgh’s Walking Tours c Explore the Old Town’s Hidden History ................46 From Castle to Palace ..............................................48 A Walk Through Holyrood Park .............................. 76 Charlotte Square to Calton Hill ..............................90 New Town Shopping ................................................. 92 A Sunday Stroll Around Stockbridge .................. 126 Colourful Victoria Street, Old Town (p35) JAMES HEATLIE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 35 Explore Y Old Town Edinburgh’s Old Town is a jagged, jumbled maze of historic masonry riddled with closes, stairs, vaults and wynds (narrow alleys) leading off the cobbled ravine of the Royal Mile, which links Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The restored 16th- and 17th-century Old Town tenements support a thriving city-centre community, crammed at street level with museums, restaurants, bars and shops. Be at Edinburgh Castle (p36) for opening time, and plan on spending two hours exploring its many at- tractions before heading downhill along the Royal Mile, stopping off as the fancy takes you at the Scotch Whisky Experience (p52) and the Camera Obscura (p52) before enjoying a seafood lunch at Ondine (p56). Join a tour of the Real Mary King’s Close (p40) then spend the rest of the afternoon at the National Mu- seum of Scotland (p42). Get your photo taken beside the statue of Greyfriars Bobby (p55) before heading down to the Grassmarket (p47) for a drink, then dinner with a view at the Tower (p59). Getting There & Around J Service 300 runs along the lower part of the Royal Mile from South Bridge to the Palace of Holyroodhouse; bus 6 links Hanover St in the New Town to the Scottish Parliament Building via Market St, St Mary’s St and Holyrood Rd. Buses 23, 27, 41, 42 and 67 run along the Mound and George IV Bridge. Neighbourhood Map on p50 Grassmarket area JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sight A Edinburgh Castle 1 MAP P50, A4 The brooding black crags of Castle Rock, rising www.edinburghcastle. above the western end of Princes St, are the very gov.uk reason for Edinburgh’s existence. This rocky hill Castle Esplanade was the most easily defended hilltop on the inva- sion route between England and central Scotland. adult/child £18.50/11.50, audioguide £3.50/£1.50 Today it is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric and popular tourist attractions. h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar, last entry 1hr before closing g23, 27, 41, 42, 67 Walking Tour c From Castle to Palace Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse Walk Facts and the Scottish Parliament are what make Start Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Scotland’s capital. This walk links the End Palace of city’s most iconic sights by following (mostly) Holyroodhouse the Royal Mile, the ancient processional route Length 1.5 miles; one hour followed by kings and queens travelling between castle and palace. ¤# York Place t t S S een h Qu t i Rd St Andrew e t NEW TOWN L n l Calton e l ¤#Square g i Hill h 1 1 P 1 1 1 St Andrew erloo l Re y 1 at1 1 1 1 1 e St Sq W b ge 1 1 1 1 1 b '€ eor A G 1 1 1 1 1 1 St No Rd es 1 a1lton 1 1 1 8 Princes rinc C H # P rt S0t 000 1 1 1 1 1 1 o £# h r 0T000 1 1 #7 ¤# s 0h000 B Waverley 1 1 1 e W 00e 0E0ast Princes St 0000 ri E Market St M Station 1 1 y 0000Gardens d ) 0000 ile n g M #6 ou al 1 1 1 oy d e t (R t St igh S n ke H d ar d M #5 S R 00000 t od Castle 00 00000 M ro #300 0000000 a ly S o Gardens 00 00#400000 r H 0000000 o y B0000000 ' ~ 00000 u s & a t S #2 n te h t #1 k wga o B C Tce S n ri T to t OLD s t h hn et s S d o k1 1 1 1 r g J r e TOWN e a b r m 1 1 1 m e s a P as Ch D r 1 1 1 1 l G Greyfriars Ni e s ' 1 1 1 a c n Kirkyard s P o e Holyrood 1 1 1 1 a ot l e s n Park 1 1 1 0000 o u 00Br0is0to t c e n Q 1 1 1 1 0000 e 0000 r S 1 1 1 Sq r 0000 o 0000 t Lauristo1n P1l 1 1 Ed0in0bu0rg0h w University LAURISTON 0 400 m e# 0 0.2 miles ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 169 Index See also separate subindexes