Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Fairy Glen, Snowdoina
Today, we would be leaving south Wales and going north – the territory more closely associated with the legends of Taliesin, Cerridwen, Blodeuwedd, and Lleu Llaw Gyffes.
At breakfast, one of the ladies on our trip, Pamela Dansforth, came up with a profound insight inspired by Robin Heath’s lecture the night before.
She wondered if the reason Celtic chieftains wore torques around their necks and arms was because it emulated the palisade - the protective embankment around the fortified village, with its two outposts on a rise at the gate. The torque might have signified the Chief’s rank, and role as the guardian of the village.
Celtic torque charm
We travelled north to Mid Wales, leaving the sacred regions of Rhiannon and Pywll behind.
From: http://www.4hotels.co.uk/uk/images/wales-north.gif
Parliament house, front (from wikipedia) Parliament House, rear (my shot)
We stopped in Machynlleth in Powys, the site of Owain Glyndŵr’s Welsh Parliament in 1404. The city is considered to be the capital of Wales by loyalists to the Welsh cause.
Display inside Parliament House
We passed through the small village of Tre Taliesin, the famous site where the great bard was discovered in a fishing weir. We pulled over, and sure enough, along the river we saw a fishing weir billowing out!
Fishing weir billowing out from the banks of Dyfi Estuary near Tre Taliesin
Home near Tre Taliesin
We stopped for lunch at the Pen-y-Bont Hotel and Restaurant, right on Tal y Llyn, a beautifully scenic lake. The proprietor, Brian Matthews, turned out to be another marvelous storyteller, regaling us with tales of the area and bringing out artifacts he’d collected.
Tal y Llyn
Pen-y-Pont Restaurant below Outdoor lunch
Brian Matthews, displaying his replica of an ancient sword
Replica of a Bronze Age sword that was found nearby
Brian gave us a spontaneous talk about the magic of this area under Cadair Idris – the local sacred mountain. He showed us a photo of a shield and a replica of a sword that had been found nearby, possibly votive offerings. The valley is formed in a V shape, which is symbolic of the womb, and Brian felt that it held a sacred feminine energy. There was a church dedicated to Saint Mary nearby, built over an even older site. Nearby was a pilgrim’s path that led to another holy site – Shrewsbury.
Legends say that spending the night on Cadair Idris risked madness or death, a common theme which probably helped protect sacred places.
St. Mary’s Church, below Cadair Idris
A photo of an ancient shield Brian had on display Cadair Idris
Continuing our way north through the spectacular Welsh countryside
The magificient scenery we passed through was mesmerizing. We were approaching the Snowdonia range of mountains now, higher and more rugged than in the south.
Northern Wales
Northern Wales
Northern Wales
We travelled along the river Conwy, north.
Northern Welsh village. Note the slag heaps (from the mines) to the upper left
We stopped to stretch our legs, climbing up to Dolwyddelan Castle. The ruins were built around 1210-1240 as a stronghold in Snowdonia for the princes of Gwynedd.
Dolwyddelan Castle
Mara Freeman on the ramparts of Dolwyddelan Castle
Castle Interior
Dolwyddelan Castle
Cave above the Conwy River in Fairy Glen. Perhaps where Merlin lived?
Mara led us to another amazing site – a Fairy Glen by the River Conwy. These woods and caves housed Merlin in his aspect of Wild Man (Myrddin Wyllt), when he distanced himself from court and lived as a hermit.
Hawthorn, a tree sacred to the Celts, called Huath in the Ogham. This tree is often associated with Faeries in Celtic mythology.
Waterfall in Fairy Glen
Along the Conwy River inside the Fairy Glen
Betws y Coed
Betws-y-Coed is a small hamlet located in Snowdonia National Park. Originally a monastery built in the 6th Century, at a point where three rivers meet – the Conwy, Llugwy and Lledr.
Welsh Cottage in the village of Betws-y-Coed, Snowdonia
Betws y Coed
Trigonos Retreat Center
Tired and hungry after a long day of touring and riding from the south to the north of Wales, we were very grateful to arrive at our home for the next few days. The center is another choice place with it’s own gardens and gourmet cooks.
Lentils, vegetables and rice Spinach
Potatoes Fruit and fresh cream
A board of local artisan cheeses I had a little of everything. Then seconds. Then . . .
Stuffed and exhausted, it was time for bed.
Resources:
Mara Freeman’s Celtic Tours: www.celticspiritjourneys.com/
Betws-y-Coed: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betws-y-Coed
Welsh Mythology: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welsh_mythology
Blodeuwedd: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blodeuwedd
Lleu Llaw Gyffes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lleu_Llaw_Gyffes
Cerridwen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceridwen
Taliesin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taliesin
Machynlleth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machynlleth
Owain Glyndŵr, Prince of Wales: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Owain_Glynd%C5%B5r
Tre Taliesin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tre-Taliesin
Tal-y-llyn Lake: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tal-y-llyn_Lake
Pen y Bont Restaurant: http://www.pen-y-bonthotel.co.uk/
Cadair Idris: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadair_Idris
River Conwy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/River_Conwy
Dolwyddelan Castle: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolwyddelan_Castle
Merlin as the Wild Man: http://www.celtnet.org.uk/gods_m/myrddin_wyllt.html
Betws-y-Coed: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betws-y-Coed
Lodgings:
Trigonos Retreat Center: http://www.trigonos.org/
Camera:
Nikon Coolpix P100 (with 26 zoom)