Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Fairy Glen, Snowdoina

Today, we would be leaving south Wales and going north – the territory more closely associated with the legends of , Cerridwen, , and .

At breakfast, one of the ladies on our trip, Pamela Dansforth, came up with a profound insight inspired by Robin Heath’s lecture the night before.

She wondered if the reason Celtic chieftains wore torques around their necks and arms was because it emulated the palisade - the protective embankment around the fortified village, with its two outposts on a rise at the gate. The torque might have signified the Chief’s rank, and role as the guardian of the village.

 Celtic torque charm

We travelled north to Mid Wales, leaving the sacred regions of and Pywll behind.

From: http://www.4hotels.co.uk/uk/images/wales-north.gif

Parliament house, front (from wikipedia) Parliament House, rear (my shot)

We stopped in Machynlleth in Powys, the site of Owain Glyndŵr’s Welsh Parliament in 1404. The city is considered to be the capital of Wales by loyalists to the Welsh cause.

Display inside Parliament House

We passed through the small village of Tre Taliesin, the famous site where the great bard was discovered in a fishing weir. We pulled over, and sure enough, along the river we saw a fishing weir billowing out!

Fishing weir billowing out from the banks of Dyfi Estuary near Tre Taliesin

Home near Tre Taliesin

We stopped for lunch at the Pen-y-Bont Hotel and Restaurant, right on Tal y Llyn, a beautifully scenic lake. The proprietor, Brian Matthews, turned out to be another marvelous storyteller, regaling us with tales of the area and bringing out artifacts he’d collected.

Tal y Llyn

Pen-y-Pont Restaurant below Outdoor lunch

Brian Matthews, displaying his replica of an ancient sword

Replica of a Bronze Age sword that was found nearby

Brian gave us a spontaneous talk about the magic of this area under Cadair Idris – the local sacred mountain. He showed us a photo of a shield and a replica of a sword that had been found nearby, possibly votive offerings. The valley is formed in a V shape, which is symbolic of the womb, and Brian felt that it held a sacred feminine energy. There was a church dedicated to Saint Mary nearby, built over an even older site. Nearby was a pilgrim’s path that led to another holy site – Shrewsbury.

Legends say that spending the night on Cadair Idris risked madness or death, a common theme which probably helped protect sacred places.

St. Mary’s Church, below Cadair Idris

A photo of an ancient shield Brian had on display Cadair Idris

Continuing our way north through the spectacular Welsh countryside

The magificient scenery we passed through was mesmerizing. We were approaching the Snowdonia range of mountains now, higher and more rugged than in the south.

Northern Wales

Northern Wales

Northern Wales

We travelled along the river Conwy, north.

Northern Welsh village. Note the slag heaps (from the mines) to the upper left

We stopped to stretch our legs, climbing up to Dolwyddelan Castle. The ruins were built around 1210-1240 as a stronghold in Snowdonia for the princes of Gwynedd.

Dolwyddelan Castle

Mara Freeman on the ramparts of Dolwyddelan Castle

Castle Interior

Dolwyddelan Castle

Cave above the Conwy River in Fairy Glen. Perhaps where lived?

Mara led us to another amazing site – a Fairy Glen by the River Conwy. These woods and caves housed Merlin in his aspect of Wild Man (Myrddin Wyllt), when he distanced himself from court and lived as a hermit.

Hawthorn, a tree sacred to the , called Huath in the Ogham. This tree is often associated with Faeries in .

Waterfall in Fairy Glen

Along the Conwy River inside the Fairy Glen

Betws y Coed

Betws-y-Coed is a small hamlet located in Snowdonia National Park. Originally a monastery built in the 6th Century, at a point where three rivers meet – the Conwy, Llugwy and Lledr.

Welsh Cottage in the village of Betws-y-Coed, Snowdonia

Betws y Coed

Trigonos Retreat Center

Tired and hungry after a long day of touring and riding from the south to the north of Wales, we were very grateful to arrive at our home for the next few days. The center is another choice place with it’s own gardens and gourmet cooks.

Lentils, vegetables and rice Spinach

Potatoes Fruit and fresh cream

A board of local artisan cheeses I had a little of everything. Then seconds. Then . . .

Stuffed and exhausted, it was time for bed.

Resources:

Mara Freeman’s Celtic Tours: www.celticspiritjourneys.com/

Betws-y-Coed: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betws-y-Coed

Welsh Mythology: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welsh_mythology

Blodeuwedd: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blodeuwedd

Lleu Llaw Gyffes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lleu_Llaw_Gyffes

Cerridwen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceridwen

Taliesin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taliesin

Machynlleth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machynlleth

Owain Glyndŵr, Prince of Wales: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Owain_Glynd%C5%B5r

Tre Taliesin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tre-Taliesin

Tal-y-llyn Lake: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tal-y-llyn_Lake

Pen y Bont Restaurant: http://www.pen-y-bonthotel.co.uk/

Cadair Idris: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadair_Idris

River Conwy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/River_Conwy

Dolwyddelan Castle: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolwyddelan_Castle

Merlin as the Wild Man: http://www.celtnet.org.uk/gods_m/myrddin_wyllt.html

Betws-y-Coed: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betws-y-Coed

Lodgings:

Trigonos Retreat Center: http://www.trigonos.org/

Camera:

Nikon Coolpix P100 (with 26 zoom)