COMPLIMENTARY

Wines of Distinction

CHALLENGING CONVENTION

ISSUE: #006 WINTER 2015 ISSUE: #006 04 12 Welcome Doing things All fur coat and Contents differently no knickers? Challenging the Laurie Webster from Matthew Clark | Vini | Winter 2015 Christmas is coming, the goose Contributors white table cloth tasting Las Bodegas gets is getting fat… Brought to you by the wine geeks at Matthew Clark behind the label @MatthewClarkLtd

Well, I’m not sure about the Siobhan Irons Sam Shepherd goose but our wine list has is one of our is one of our PLEASE NOTE certainly grown with over 40 buyers and after national wine THE CODES LISTED NEXT TO WINES new wines just added to our spending 9 years development ARE OUR PRODUCT CODES WHICH working in the specialist and has 14 16 CAN BE USED TO PURCHASE WINES. range to spice up your lists On-Trade followed Over ten years Parte della famiglia Leading the way PRICES QUOTED ARE LIST BOTTLE for winter. by a stint at of operational PRICE. THESE ARE CORRECT AT TIME Majestic, couldn’t resist getting even experience in bars and restaurants, Richard Smithson of Our bets on these Inside this edition of Vini, OF PRINT BUT MAY BE SUBJECT TO closer to the product by applying for now working to optimise wine Aqua Italia explains the essence top innovators in the CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. we catch up one of our new buying role. Three years later, every opportunities for all businesses of family partnerships world of wine producers, Casa Rojo, to day is still different and she loves the and concepts with Matthew Clark. see how they are injecting the feeling of finding that gem that will WSET Diploma graduate in 2013 make someone’s day and add that and a very keen interest in food, Spanish category with passion little extra to your wine list. wine, spirits and beer from around and creating a great buzz the world. around their wines. Zoe Coombs 19 22 25 is our wine Emmy Webster We look at who’s challenging development is our resident PR My princess of fizz Starter for 10 Reach for the moon the status quo in the world of specialist for the guru and spends Simon Grayson asks Sam Shepherd delves into What have the lads from South West, with most of her time what’s next for Prosecco our wine list with The New Moon Pub Co got wine, whether this is techniques, a passion for talking about, labels, educating, blending or just wine, she’s an writing about or his top 10 up their sleeves now? thinking differently, it’s all here integral part of the team, having tasting wine. Her as we delve into the vast space started with Matthew Clark in 2000 knowledge and thirst for the category of innovation we come across and working within the On-Trade is growing by the day. Her love for the since she was 18. The last couple On-Trade stems from having ran two every day. of years have seen her achieve her On-Trade outlets, she is content on WSET diploma and qualify as a either side of the bar! 28 31 32 Are you doing something WSET Educator. differently with wine you’d like Fiona Stephens Demystifying wine Discover, love, inspire Celebrating innovation to share with us? Or perhaps Tiffany Mogg is one of our Working our way through Save the date for our We catch up with M Restaurants you’ve got a different take on is our Wine national wine the misunderstood flagship tasting next spring on their recent accolades and Marketing development buzzwords of wine innovative ways something you’ve read in here … Manager. Having specialist and Get in touch, we love to chat all worked in the wine has worked in things wine! trade since 2007 wine retail, sales she counts herself and management in the Off- and Cheers! lucky “I work with such like minded On-Trade, both here and in New 36 people, some of which have become Zealand. I have had so much fun Simon the very best of friends”. Tiffany holds working with great people and great The rise of 0% her WEST Diploma and is a qualified wine. Wine is always a central factor The new consumers who are WEST Educator. of my travels; some of my most asking for less from their wine memorable moments have been in California on my honeymoon visiting the likes of Chimney Rock and Dominus and in Tasmania soaking up the sun, vineyards and Riesling!

Matthew Clark | Vini | 3 Wine Industry Everything in life is more interesting when you It spread like wildfire. Individual producers started understand more about it, so to understand this uprising constructing a collective voice that sounded so refreshingly Innovation in in South African wine, lets first look at the countries different from those we hear out of France, Australia, Italy recent vinous path. Ours is uniquely intertwined with and beyond… our human journey. This makes us different from many This was just the beginning. It had a direct impact on our other wine producing country across the world. . We started looking back to the past and It all kicked off with a seemingly unrelated event thousands discovered amazing wines and South African-specific of miles away. It began with the Berlin Wall falling, no longer blends from the 60s and 70s particularly. This in turn led was it appropriate or palatable for the West to prop up the to a renewed confidence in the crafting we had sometimes Apartheid regime, and around 6 months later the release of lacked before. But this time it wasn’t exclusive, arrogant Nelson Mandela was announced. The New South Africa was confidence – it was based on a humble remembering that SOUTH born and with it the opportunity to sell our wine globally. we are privileged custodians of our land. What a balls-up we made initially. It was left to an We began to realise that to be successful winemakers, Englishman, Roger Gabb, to create our first (and still our we only have to reflect our South African stories and largest) export brand – Kumala. But this isn’t surprising, we remarkable environment through our wine; nothing more. were still sifting through the rubble of ourselves, desperately We have many larger-than-life characters in our ranks. searching for what was positive; what we could believe in AFRICA And the renewed confidence we’ve discovered in the rubble going forward. By Bruce Jack of ourselves affords these characters a stage on which Flagstone Winemaker & Founder Around 2004 our generic marketing arm, Wines of South to bedazzle with innovative, delicious wines – now a truer Africa (WOSA), got their speed up with an unusual reflection of the land and the farmer. campaign that linked our natural biodiversity to our wine. There is an explosion of innovation currently Here are just a few of the people that I have found Initially this was seen as risky. Wine-centric commentators particularly inspiring in South African winemaking: happening in the South African wine thought we should concentrate on the differentiating style of our wine – part ‘new world sunshine’, part ‘old world industry; new regions are being opened elegance’. Many marketers thought Africa’s Big Five and – Charles Back pioneered many new different grape up for plantings, heralding vastly Table Mountain would serve as better communication tools varieties, including Viognier, Barbera, Tempranillo, etc… than our flowers. He also led the way in transformation on his farms and different soil types and climates. started the first wine brand JV with his farm workers. It was certainly challenging to link the biodiversity of our flora to our wine, although as a farmer I could immediately – Mariota Enthoven has kept the flame of Old regions are being re-invented see how the soil and climate affects both in very similar transformation burning bright through walking the talk on with hipster marketing. Ancient, ways – if our flora is so mesmerisingly distinctive, so Spier and hosting many mini-conferences, colloquiums should our wines be. Planting the ‘business of wine’ in the and discussions to further dialogue in this regard. forgotten blends are being ‘kingdom of flowers’ and expecting both to flourish seemed rediscovered like Cabernet a bit of a stretch though. – Rico Basson, the CEO of Vinpro has worked But something amazing happened, this initiative forced tirelessly over the last few years to create a sustainable and Cinsault, and a whole us to look from our farm gates, not outward towards the structure for the South African industry that embraces lot of new varieties have gold-paved streets of marketing make-believe, but back the challenges and helps support all the exciting, to the land that makes us different. It immediately, and emerging talent. found their way into bottle. effortlessly, allowed us to be proud again; even if initially it was pride in our flora, whose long-buried seeds were – The Newton Johnson at their metaphorically germinated by the revolutionary fire that eponymous estate near Hermanus have pioneered swept through our country. maritime varieties like Albarino. This new focus somehow started unlocking the stories – Neil Ellis was the first producer to buy in grapes and of our land which were untainted by Apartheid. It felt like produce a sustainable, premium wine offering, when at spring to me. Our re-awakened connection to nature may the time, only those who had inherited old, established have seemed incidental, but it was the spark we needed farms where able to do this. to re-fire our identity and our imaginations. With this transformation in the way we perceived ourselves and When great, South African wines all share an amazing each other, we started acting differently. combination of balance, complexity and deliciousness – this is what is getting so many people excited – there are The ‘wholesomeness’ of farming found new expression in more and more wines like these on the market. Pinotage, old stories. Fresh, always wry Afrikaans proverbs emerged. when great, is life-changing. Like Pinot Noir (its mother), We started to recognise elements of our national character this doesn’t happen often, but when it does it’s brilliant. woven into our communication – tenacity, boer maak’n plan, humour, generosity of spirit, fierce individuality, To try Bruce's wines along with other South African show contrarian opinions, wisdom, eccentricity, a deep-rooted stoppers, be sure to come along to our Discover, Love, love of the land... Inspire tasting at Tobacco Dock on Tuesday 8th March.

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4 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 5 Doing things customers to ‘Discover the Unexpected’. the wines they’ve tried on their smart phone Location, location, We wanted to show them that we have a or tablet. We also included our masterclass differently location range of wines that some people wouldn’t timetable and set up push notifications to We set out to find a venue that was expect us to stock, we highlighted many of update people on key things happening completely different to anywhere we’ve our boutique wineries and more niche wines throughout the day. By Rebecca Allan for our customers to discover. Demonstrating previously held tastings. London is a big Marketing Communications Manager that not only can we deliver wines, we can Our 2015 event theme, #WhyWeLoveWine city but in terms of quirky, large-scale event help our customers to sell them too, and for allowed us to create our own social media spaces, it’s surprisingly limited. But when we Watch the highlights from our 2014 and 2015 visitors to walk away at the end of the day campaign. In the run up to the event and events on our YouTube page. came across a relatively new venue, Tobacco thinking, ‘Wow, I didn’t expect that from on the day itself, we asked our customers, Dock in London’s East End, we thought it Matthew Clark’ and with a reinvigorated suppliers and staff to share why they love might just be the one we were looking for. passion for wine. wine. There was a lot of love! The Grade 1 listed venue was previously developed as a shopping centre but was What do you think of when you think of a trade wine tasting? For us, re-launched as an events space in October Digital age All about wine it used to be having 300 wines displayed on white-clothed trestle 2012. The fact that it was previously a retail There’s no escaping technology in this day Still at the heart of our tastings are our tables in a beautiful venue, some country maps on pop up banners space is what sold it to us. With glass fronted and age. We now use Cvent – the global wines. Over the past couple of years we’ve behind the tables and a tasting booklet for people to make notes on ‘shops’, we’d be able to really bring to life our leader in event registration software for our brought almost 500 wines and scores of our the wines they’ve tried. wines across a variety of different rooms and event management platform. This system suppliers to Tobacco Dock. allows us to manage our event customer create a customer journey that allowed our But what we strive to do as well, is share We’ve held many tastings like this over the years. Yes they were registration site and send out email updates, visitors to explore the world of wine. So much our passion, insight and knowledge to help as well as allowing us to quickly and easily always felt to be good events at the time, but in 2013 we decided so, that we decided to return for our 2015 our customers sell more. This year, we had a sign visitors in on the day via iPads. that we needed to shake up the way we deliver our trade tastings tasting and we’ll be back there in 2016. room dedicated to this – our Generator Bar. and that we’d start in 2014 by putting on our biggest London tasting At our 2015 tasting we also created an event We created this commercially focused zone yet and that we’d do it differently. So what did we do? app. This featured a directory of all the wines to look like a bar, and provided a fun and Our aim was simple. We wanted to make it at the tasting with information on prices, inspiring atmosphere for customers from all all about our customers, whilst drawing on what style of wine they are and our tasting outlet styles and venues. Our teams were on 2004, Veuve Cliquot La Grande the passion and knowledge of our producers. notes. The app allows people to save their hand to discuss profit changing steps, and Creating an Dame 2004, Krug Grande Cuvée. We also We wanted our customers and prospective ‘favourites’ and make their own notes on how to build a solid commercial wine list. experience bring together a range of experts in the trade People get so much enjoyment out of wine to share their knowledge with our visitors in and a tasting should be no different. We split our ‘masterclass’ room. Over the past couple our tasting selection into ‘zones’ and develop of years we’ve heard from Josh Eggleton, a theme for each to add some theatre to the star of Great British Menu and chef/patron event. From our Spanish villa in our Casa de of the Michelin starred The Pony and Trap, We’re pleased with the way we’ve shaken up our tastings. Vinos to our sparkling room adorned with Saturday Kitchen and MW Peter Richards, fairy lights and balloons to our Wondrous MS and all round expert Ronan But don’t just take my word for it – here’s what some of our World of Wine – think Willy Wonka and the Sayburn and many more. All so our visitors customers and suppliers have to say about them… Chocolate Factory. can hopefully go away learning something new that they can implement in their outlet. Laurie Webster Dominic Roberts Victoria Wood In 2014 we also offered some visitors Las Bodegas Head , South Lodge Hotel Restaurant One O One, Knightsbridge a once in a lifetime tasting experience, With so much to see and experience, all of which were led by either our wine- we’ve kept visitors fuelled for the day with a “I think this is a fabulous event, there’s a real “I’ve been a Matthew Clark customer for six “I thoroughly enjoyed the masterclasses, La makers themselves or distributors. These choice of street food served from vans on sense of theatre around the event today - so years. This is a brand new event with a whole Maison du Vin and the Las Americas. All rooms much so, I think Matthew Clark can teach new set up, it’s fantastic! There’s lots of new were interesting, but for my wine list these were experiences included a tasting by Laure the quayside of Tobacco Dock. From Mac the wine trade a lot about how to put on a items today and so much more to cover. Great the best. It was a great day; the venue was Colombo of Jean Luc Colombo Cornas n Cheese to the Wild Game Co to Spanish trade tasting - really great! We love what value, superior quality, a great array of wines. great, the masterclasses were very interesting La Louvee 2004, a tasting of a bottle of Pintxos, we picked a selection of food vans they’re doing at the moment, they’re pushing Matthew Clark are always willing to help me, (and nice and short) and the street food was a Mondavi 1982 and a vertical cuvée prestige that offer something different and enhanced boundaries, it’s excellent, a great event!” great quality products and value for money, great touch!” tasting including Cuvée Prestige Dom the wines on the day. Who says trade there’s so much to discover! Ruinart 2002, Cuvée Prestige Dom Perignon tastings are boring?

6 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 7 Trading up throughout the winter

By Fiona Stephens, Wine Development Specialist, National Accounts • Mix price points up so that customers are • Where possible only offer a mid-premium List Design encouraged to browse list and may be version of popular grapes, for example, There are so many ways you can design a tempted by alternative wines rather than rather than offering an entry level Chilean list which encourages customers to stop merely the cheapest Sauvignon Blanc by the glass and a New defaulting to house wine or ‘bar calls’, Zealand Sauvignon Blanc by the bottle, • Insert a generic grape variety such as such as Sauvignon Blanc, here are just a switch this around to promote higher sales Colombard, Trebbiano or Viura as entry few suggestions which I have successfully of your premium offering, or ditch the Encouraging customers to trade up is a goal and challenge level wine, rather than a popular variety. used with my customers. entry level all together. Iconic The Grand This separates price-led customers from for all businesses, all year round, but winter offers a unique Hotel have been working with this idea varietal-led customers and encourages and have taken it a step further with some set of hurdles and opportunities. those who are looking for key varieties Structure wines such as premium Pinot Grigio and to pay a little more for their Pinot Grigio, • Offer as many wines by the glass over the Malbec only being available by the bottle. Where wine is concerned this involves a 3 pronged attack: Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot etc. This has longest pricing ladder as your budget and Because they are high demand products, worked very well with Cotswold Inn Hotels ullage concerns will allow. I have recently the customer feels comfortable buying a whereby I moved the house Chenin Blanc stretched The Grand Hotel, Brighton bottle and is impressed by the quality level from entry point to mid-level and moved to offer more options by the glass; from in comparison to cheaper options they are the quality and price up on all known fours reds and four whites to nine of each. used to seeing elsewhere by the glass: a varieties. This has increased penetration Ensure all your Invest in staff Design and plan This has allowed them to offer a wider brave, bold move but effective in high-end throughout their list, but has still allowed variety of wines and as they have a large restaurants wine lists are training, making promotions that offer them to have a generic Spanish option restaurant and bar with a knowledgeable structured to offer them aware of alternative trade up at the entry point for those who are • If you have a short list with limited bins, team, they can deal with this without too 1 2 3 cost conscious offer as many wines by the glass as much wastage. They also offer a 500ml clear trade up options potential trade up options based on season, possible and fill your entry wines with carafe on more expensive wines that are • You can expand on this by only offering options so they can trends or holiday periods generic varieties or good value regional not available by the glass to reduce the house wine by the bottle to encourage options such as wines from Southern discuss with customers cost and risk of purchasing a pricier wine, glass sales of known varieties. Allowing France. Then put your Sauvignon Blanc/ but also to encourage customers to share room to add a few quirky wines by the why these wines are Pinot Grigio/Chenin/Chardonnay/Merlot/ a carafe of white with their starters and glass to whet their appetite without the risk Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec etc at slightly worthy of spending a red with their mains, to push the average of having to pay for a whole bottle only to higher price points. If you don’t want to spend up. I would strongly recommend find it’s not to their taste few more pennies on charge too much then put popular wines using carafes as they give you an extra at the top i.e. a good quality New Zealand selling tool with less risk of wastage Sauvignon Blanc or Argentinian Malbec

8 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 9 These are just a few tricks of the trade to help you to maximise your sales and margin potential and to enthuse staff and customers alike.

Widening a customer’s horizons by offering them something different and higher quality improves their experience, but more importantly promotes trust in your wine offering and allows you to have fun with your list.

Your Account Manager and Wine Development Specialist will be able to help you with all these suggestions and no doubt many more beyond this, so invite them in for a chat and boost your winter sales!

• If you group wines stylistically it becomes and regions will need to be hand-sold and ran a Californian Summer promotion on Design Food & Wine Pairing Training very easy for staff to understand why your teams need to feel comfortable with premium Californian wines, which have • Structuring your list into Good/Better/Best • Food and wine pairing on the menu and/ You can have the best offer in the world, someone who likes Sauvignon Blanc might these wines, so these should be focused enthused customers and the wines have options allows customers to pick the price or wine list is essential if you are a food- the most wine savvy customer base and like Sancerre or Gavi for example. on during training now won a spot on the main list bracket they are comfortable browsing led venue. If you can plant that seed a roaring trade of customers with a high I have recently been conducting training • This idea of using the weather to promote within, but also accentuates the quality of a premium wine matching a popular disposable income, but if your staff do for a national high street restaurant with trade up wines is key – the idea of using of the higher priced wines and tempts dish, chances are customers will opt for not feel confident in discussing trade up Promotions an Italian only list with some wines that the the southern hemisphere’s summer during them to trade up. There are a number of the wine and will be impressed at the options then your wine offering will fall flat The winter is a perfect time for promotions young staff base are unfamiliar with wines our winter to promote new world wines descriptors you can use which jazz up the establishment’s wine knowledge, which on its face. – you can make reference to the festivities like Fiano or Chianti. The list is structured that will bring a little sunshine into the G/B/B terminology – speak to your Wine promotes further wine discussions with and the weather and try your best to tempt Customers will then make a bee-line for in the G/B/B style but I mirrored this winter gloom can be very effective. Winter Development Specialist for help with this. staff and trust in the wine offering. I have people from their dry January goals! known varieties and classics, often choosing when tasting with the team and created warmer promotions work well too – subtle I have used this recently in a popular high recently been working with Center Parcs the cheapest option because it is not clear a very visual trade up chart for them that • Offer a promotion which covers all cues to warming spices and wines to street Italian chain with great success on their Conference & Banqueting List what they are getting extra for their money. showed the natural trade up wines for the drinking options, price points and enjoy with hearty meals, or by the fire, all and saw real mileage in adding premium • Alternatively you can structure your list Training is key! You do not need a team of Good into the Better category and Better occasions i.e. a fizz, a white and a red tempt customers to trade up and fend off options in the form of classics such as stylistically to make it easy for your staff , you just need an honest and into Best. This visual aid just simplified from either wines that are normally only the post-Christmas blues Chablis, Sancerre, Chateauneuf-du-Pape to encourage a customer to trade up to down-to-earth trainer, the right wines and an the options for the team, plus I threw in available by the bottle or new wines which and popular grapes such as Cabernet • Likewise, making connections to the a wine similar to the style they currently enthusiastic and willing sales force. some food icons to show which wines are quirky or slightly more premium. Sauvignon and Malbec. We also added festivities is vital. People are looking enjoy, but of higher quality. This also matched which foods to further assist their Importantly do not choose wines which some quirky wines for those who like • When training, it is important to try wines to treat themselves on the run up to means customers can easily see what recommendations. It’s a perfect reminder offer competition to your most popular something a bit different. What tied this side by side in terms of quality level and/or Christmas so focusing on premium wines style of wines suit their palate and then that can go on the wall in the kitchen or in wines i.e. if you have a Chilean Merlot altogether though was creating ‘perfect’ variety to emphasise the differences and and Champagne or sparkling offers with a feel comfortable trying something slightly the staff room by the glass, do not offer an alternative wine matches for each dish on their menu. make clear what the higher quality/priced real ‘treat yourself’ focus tempts everyone. pricier in the same stylistic field Chilean Merlot at a similar price point. This has enabled C&B events staff to sell wine offers over its cheaper competitor • Encouraging your teams to discuss their If you can ask your supplier for funding If you are sticking to the same grape, • Adding descriptors to take the risk out in the idea of food and wine pairing to favourite wines at varying price points for a few bottles to give away as tasting • Provide your teams with a toolbox of choose a more premium option or a Merlot of purchasing pricier and lesser known make it easier and quicker for customers with customers means that they are able samples, especially if you have a strong generic phrases focusing on how the from a different country wines, such as ‘if you like Sauvignon Blanc to decide on their ideal menu and wine list to talk honestly and confidently about local, loyal customer base, this will help premium wines offer richer and more you will love this…’, this helps customers for their event wines across your whole list and edge • Offer premium wines by the glass or whet the appetite for promotions complex flavours. If they can throw in trade up if they lack confidence discussing customers up a few price notches, rather carafe and make sure your advertising is • When refreshing your menu with winter a titbit about the wine being an award • Use promotions to inform you of wine options with staff than just very obviously promoting the appealing and your copy engaging. This favourites, matching these to ‘winter’ winner, from a well renowned producer, or what trade up options work for your most expensive wines on the list. Top removes the risk for customers of ordering wines will help boost sales and by perfect for winter dishes then you establishment, staff and customer base end classics such as Sancerre/Chablis/ a whole bottle and allows them to trade choosing wines which are not your most are onto a winner and use this knowledge to help you refresh Bordeaux/Burgundy will, to a large extent, up and treat themselves without having to popular will help give them exposure and plan your future lists sell themselves; premium options of dig deep for a bottle. This has worked very known wines and lesser known varieties well with The Grand Hotel. They recently

10 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 11 Extending A techno list From kitchen the reach of Wine lists already appear on to list tablets and as apps, technology the wine list offers the list space and an Communication from the opportunity to provide more kitchen, through the list and to Remember the disengaged the consumer will undoubtedly consumer … whilst not a fan of information, which paper just “Would you can’t match. A list that could improve a consumer’s enjoyment the wine list, the disengaged if it means a more appropriate consumer can be reached be searched by grape variety then cross-referenced against wine is enjoyed with a particular by taking the message off dish. If the wine list can help the page. The use of a linked a food-match or from which a winemaker could speak is here the consumer to pick wines offer (food and wine perhaps) that go well with the food that can be communicated now, but will become more common. ordered, assisting a better by serving staff or as a stand- match, it would both enhance like to see alone feature on a bottle, the customer’s experience and blackboard or technology increase profits. The wine list platform may be used to carry of the future will have to be the message. A training list better at capturing, holding and The wine list is a front-of- distributing this knowledge as house document that ‘talks’ and when required. to customers and staff – the best already provide elements the wine list?” of training to both. However, there is plenty of opportunity for A weather list development, maybe technology By Simon Haywood, Wine Category Controller will drive this function of the Seasonality has been reflected list. Using the list as a powerful in restaurant wine lists for some sales document, providing time now; with guest wines and guidance rather than just being half-yearly reviews to adjust When it comes to the moment of selecting a glass or bottle of wine in a restaurant a passive directory, is the the red/white/rosé balance. way forward with or without a However, it may be worth or at the bar, I suspect consumers fall into three camps – excited and engaged; technological input. developing a wine list to address phenomena like snow in May disinterested and unengaged or bewildered and maybe even slightly terrified. or t-shirt weather in November. Will technology address this, With this in mind what is the best way to offer up a wine list to the consumer? and if so, will it dial in to order more bottles of spicy Shiraz or Obviously there are still lists around like luminaries such as Gérard Basset MW & refreshing Riesling from the wine What does a this, but mercifully they are supported by MS and the publications Harpers Wine supplier as a result of a change wine list do? knowledgeable wine service staff and & Spirit and Wine Intelligence report that in the weather? sommeliers that can provide the (missing) consumers prefer wine lists to be laid Understanding the role of a wine list, is detail to aid the selection of the right wine. out by style/taste, ideally with information the first step in being able to increase its about food matching. effectiveness in gaining sales from each A robotic list of these consumer types. The wine list The present Understanding and acting upon what influences individual consumer’s buying If robots can build cars carries out a multiplicity of tasks; amongst The average Great British wine consumer decisions is now becoming the norm; … surely they can make other duties it holds an outlet’s range (if there is such an individual) is pretty wine lists now regularly feature a range of recommendations, take orders together, provides crib notes for sales switched on when it comes to wine mechanics. A good example is detailing and serve the wine … I’ve staff who might not even drink wine, and definitely happy to experiment and wine awards, whilst not everyone is googled ‘robot sabrage’ but not offers a marketing opportunity to increase switch wines. Compare the popularity of influenced by them, perhaps one in seven found a reference to a bottle of profits and can even acts as a quality Malbec or Prosecco these days against will trade up to a better wine on account Champagne being opened this indicator to knowledgeable customers. Liebfraumilch, or an ‘overly-oaked’ of an award featured in the list. Therefore, way yet, surely it’s just a matter Australian Chardonnay of previous As it is such an important and hard- including awards alongside some food and of time… decades. Whether it’s an ‘engaged working document, every effort should wine matches in a list arranged by style, will explorer’ looking to add a new Italian be made to maximise its efficiency, now appeal to a wider range of consumers. develop its capabilities and to innovate; grape, such as Pecorino, to his or her so that the wine offering is communicated repertoire; or a ‘newbie’ to the world of to customers in a way that helps them find wine who would like to try something The Future similar, but better, than the wine they the wine that best suits them and So what about the future? Well I think that regularly purchase; consumers want the the occasion. the communication trend will continue, right information to help them find these and consumers will both receive and wines on a restaurant wine list. The past react to better quality information when Today’s wine lists are much better than making a decision as to which wine to Without dwelling here too long, the wine those of the past, they do contain more buy. If the list is already separated by list of the past was a geographically information and are often structured in a style, with appropriate headings, food arranged list of titles and prices, little or way that helps both discovery and avoids matches and has some awards featured it no help was given to the consumer, it was unnecessary disappointment. It’s now is probably doing a good job. But, what’s expected that the consumer would know well documented as to what consumers coming next… what a good sommelier would know. are looking for in a wine list. Research by

12 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 13 It never ceases to amaze me how Possible Possible often I’ve met wine producers who Keywords Keywords Elegant Strong are absolutely brimming over with Reliable Proud passion and enthusiasm for their Trustworthy Bold products; they’ve made the most Modern Confident Simple Clear wonderful wines, have often spent Clear Concise a small fortune along the way and Muscular then... “Oh! I need a label!” 1. Brand Name 2. Brand Icon In this business we all know the The Puro stripe, label can have a huge impact on 2. Brand Icon not unlike the Serbal Bush Argentine polo kit whether or not people will actually Illustration 1. Brand want to buy the bottle so it should Name 3. Grape Variety never ever be an afterthought. and Vintage Likewise, how many times have 4. Producer 3. Grape Variety 5. Region, and Vintage you been given a stunning looking Country bottle of wine, something with 4. Producer 5. Region, real wow factor, only to have Country opened the thing to find it’s all fur coat and no knickers, so to speak! All fur coat Very disappointing. We all do our best to cater logically for the Let’s consider for a moment what a wine your head around, and also stands a better the design process. Crucially, Serbal Malbec needs and wants of our customers as we see label is actually made up of (importantly, we chance of standing out from the crowd. I call is indeed a more elegant, more restrained style them, and instinct ultimately has a part to play are talking about front labels here, not back this the hierarchy of messages that will be of Malbec, whereas as Puro is far more robust when putting together a wine offering. The labels, which is where we usually find the present on most, if not all, good wine labels. and ‘in your face’, as is the label design. There and no subjectivity of wine, and design, adds further mandatory / ‘legal’ information for any given Simply put, this is how consumers remember is also a direct correlation between the name complication - expertise is valuable of course, wine). There are usually some basic items of wines. People live busy lives; why make it more Puro and the fact that this wine is certified but opinions are paramount and passions often information that are common to most labels: difficult than necessary for them to remember organic and is therefore, conceivably, more spill over into heated debate. A label design • Brand/Producer Name which Argentine Malbec or which New Zealand ‘pure’. The name Serbal, on the other hand, should be integral to what’s in the bottle, like Sauvignon they liked the last time? refers to a bush that is native to the Uco Valley the introduction to a really good book or the • Brand Icon – often a graphic device such in Mendoza and grows amongst the vines - a knickers? as an illustration that represents the brand As a very simple rule of thumb, I always ask: opening scene of a really good movie, never less direct but very honest and genuine brand Is it easy to say? Is it easy to remember? the be-all-and-end-all, but certainly enticing and • Grape Variety/Varieties concept. Not just a ‘made up story’. If the answer to both of these questions is indicative of what is to come. The pitfalls and opportunities • Vintage yes, that’s a good start! There are obvious For me, the word Serbal leads the charge for One of the challenges for label designers, like • Region/Country exceptions, of course. Casillero Del Diablo for this wine. It’s probably how most people will presented by wine label design. winemakers, is everyone and their dog has an example doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, but remember it. Puro, on the other hand, has a opinion, and every opinion counts. The label is This list is not exhaustive and sometimes, most consumers will remember the ‘little devil’ very large and clear brand name, but what I a fundamental part of the decision whether or but not always, the above items will also be icon on the label, and that is probably how many think is most striking - and most memorable - is By Laurie Webster, not to buy. This is true not only in the traditional accompanied by information about the alcohol consumers recognise this particular wine brand. the stripe, the brand icon. For both wines, and retail environment but also in bars and content and the bottle size, though this is all good wine labels, it is the combination of When considering wine label design, and restaurants where wines are merchandised in commonly confined to the back, particularly these messages, and a balanced approach Las Bodegas therefore wine sales, brand owners need to exciting and enticing ways in order to present a with more modern approaches to design. to depicting them that makes the labels work. decide what the most important messages are smart, tempting wine offer to customers. Everything else is down to personal choice. Now, imagine these various items as the and take it from there. Wine buyers in turn need So, how do we cut through the minefield of graphic equaliser controls on a stereo sound to decide which of those messages are the I’ve presented these two wines side by side subjectivity? How do we ensure an exciting or system (readers of a certain age who grew ones that will best appeal to their customers, a number of times at Matthew Clark tasting ‘trendy’ looking wine range and, conversely, up in a pre-digital age will find this easier and therefore lead to strong sales of every wine events and it is fascinating to see who is how do we avoid the pitfalls of opting only than others). Or, imagine them as the musical in their range. drawn to Serbal and who is drawn to Puro. for ‘safe’ options that we feel will not scare instruments playing in a small orchestra. If Often, but not always, the conversation leads The concept of the message hierarchy can people away. As with most things, as with wine you turn all the controls up to 10, or ask all the on to which label their customers would be be illustrated very simply by looking at a itself, the answer comes in taking a balanced musicians to play fortissimo, the result will just most drawn to. couple of labels, Serbal Malbec and Puro approach but not, in my view, trying to appeal be a loud noise with no definition; the listener Malbec from Argentina. Same grape, same A really good wine range, large or small, should to absolutely everyone. If you go down that will find it difficult to appreciate what is going country, but two very different wines with very be engaging and interesting. Equally, it should road you could end up with a watered down on and could turn off very quickly. different personalities and, therefore, two very be easy to use. It should give people clear offering, a range that doesn’t say very much In the same way, if all of the visual elements different labels. choices, visually and stylistically. The wine about you and your business and, as I always on a wine label are regarded as being equally labels in that range should say something about say, the only thing you get from standing in the • Puro Malbec 2013 important and are thus all ‘turned up to 10’ the wines and, more importantly, they should middle of the road is being run over! the label isn’t going to make much sense. • Serbal Malbec 2013 say something about the place they are being The good news is, you don’t need to go there. Something has to take top dog position. It I wasn’t personally involved in designing these sold in. The options available to the UK on-trade are could be the brand, it could be the grape, or a labels, but it is easy to see how each presents All this sounds fairly obvious, I’m sure, but virtually limitless and, really, there’s no excuse piece of brand iconography, it might even be a very different ‘look and feel’ and could appeal it’s worth taking a step back and taking a for not taking the time to really think about your the country in some cases. But in choosing to different consumers. I have added some really good look at your labels from time to wine range and how it is presented because what comes first, and what consumers keywords to each that I feel might describe the time to make sure they are doing the job you getting it right is, frankly, good for business. therefore see as the key message, a good labels or be useful to a designer when starting wine label becomes much more easy to get want them to.

14 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 15 It’s all about quality and never compromising on quality whether it be staff, wine or food.

Let’s start from the beginning, when did you first What do you think are strengths of the MC offering? start working with Matthew Clark? The people. The promotions, entertainment and Bob ‘Champagne I have been with Matthew Clark for the last 35 years. Bobby’ Underhill have also helped! Matthew Clark have exceptional wines at good prices but it’s also about two way Wow! How has your business changed/grown since loyalty for me and being able to have a giggle along the way! the early days with Matthew Clark? I was in Hotels back then, but around 20 years ago I opened the Do you think Matthew Clark has adapted first Aqua in Welshback (Bristol) which at the time was a modern and grown with the industry? European with a classic British twist. It was the first and the Most definitely; they have brought new products and new blood biggest contemporary restaurant in Bristol. Back then you really into the business, we have you – a Wine Development Specialist only had Bernie Inns or owner driver restaurants and bistros. looking after us which we wouldn’t have had 10 years ago. Harveys was the most prestigious restaurant in Bristol at the time. What relationships have you built up with Aqua operated as it was for 10 years before we bought our Matthew Clark people over the years? second site in Bath, which was running as a traditional Italian restaurant at the time. We decided not to change the menu to I’ve made some good friends at Matthew Clark, it’s unusual to Parte della begin with, and then slowly introduced some more modern Italian have the continuity of people/friends in a business (at this point dishes which worked really well. This is when we introduced the he nudges Simon Jerrome Purchasing Director in the ribs and same menu to Welshback and created the brand Aqua Italia. says ‘like this cheeky chappie here!’….) The brand was born then but has developed over the last 10 years What does the future look like for Richard Smithson across our 5 current sites, which is soon to be 7. By Zoe Coombs and the Aqua group? Why have you continued to work with us Our business is based on personality and strong family values. famiglia as your business has grown? We are going to continue our steady growth and remain an Ian Smith. independent family run business, with no more than 12 sites, as at that point you need to run operations out of a head office and I I caught up with Mr Richard Smithson of the Aqua Italia Really? am not interested in that. It’s my business and I want to be proud Well, there has been lots of changes at Matthew Clark over those of it – I don’t want to cut corners to make more money – that’s group, who is arguably one of the best operators out years but there has been one consistent for me and that is Ian just not me. It’s all about quality and never compromising on there in the On-Trade and asked him a few questions… Smith. There are a few very good people I have worked with: quality whether it be staff, wine or food. Ian, Pete Hanna, Simon Jerrome and Victoria Neale. These people have kept me in because they have sorted out any problems I have ever had, other suppliers would have said ‘No’ when these guys have said ‘Yes’. 16 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 17 Codorníu, Chalk Hill, Esporão, Spain McClaren Vale, Alentejo, The Codorníu family go back a Australia Portugal long way (a really long way!) It was 1551 when Jaume Codorníu Born from a desire to understand Some innovations aren’t just started producing still wine in just how much influence a wine orientated and in 2010 Soellner, the Penedès region, making winemaker has when making Esporão became the first wine them one of oldest family run a single vineyard wine, Tom company in the world to sign the Wagram, companies in the world. Harvey formulated a plan to give Countdown 2010, a worldwide You could argue the reason they six winemakers the opportunity initiative whose objective is to halt Austria have endured is their spirit of to make small batches of wine the loss of biodiversity at a local, Innovation can come in all discovery and willingness to do from a single vineyard of Shiraz national and global level. With shapes and sizes and our organic things differently. allowing each winemaker to climate change in mind, another producer Soellner based in choose all the winemaking sustainable commitment has been Wagram in Austria have begun As far back as 1872, Josep variables from when to to encourage the cultivation of a using recyclable screw caps, made Raventos applied the Traditional through to the barrels used for wide range of original indigenous with 50% wood and 50% plastic Method, borrowed from Errazuriz, ageing, thus the Alpha Crucis grape varieties with a view to with a glass seal inside. These Champagne, to produce Cava Winemaker Series was born. Chile helping discover alternative actually use a lot less energy to (then called Xampagnet) using plantings for the future, and this produce and Toni Söllner believes a classic blend of Penedès First produced in 2008, noted The Errazuriz winery was first is in addition to planting a 9 that as the bottle is sealed with varieties. Almost a century later Australia wine critic James established in 1870 by Don hectare vineyard with a collection glass on glass, the threat of cork in 1985, Codorníu were the first Halliday has given these wines Maximiano, who recognised of over 200 Portuguese and taint is removed and the condition to introduce Chardonnay into their some fantastic scores, frequently the potential of the Aconcagua foreign varieties that are in of the wine should be perfect in Cava blends, then in 2000 they awarding them an outstanding Valley’s Mediterranean climate danger of becoming extinct. each and every bottle. launched the first 100% Pinot Noir 94-96 points. Incidentally, Chalk for quality wine production. This Rose Cava. Finally, in 2010 they Hill are also pioneers of the pioneering spirit runs through the The first Portuguese wine were the first to produce a Blanc Italian Barbera variety in Australia, family and Errazuriz have been producer to start using FSC de Noirs Cava known as Reina which has gone on to be one of responsible for a number of firsts certified corks, in 2013 they Maria Cristina. their most awarded wines in the in the Chilean wine industry, received just recognition for last decade. such as the development of their environmentally minded hillside and coastal vineyards approach, winning the coveted Denis at Aconcagua Costa, taking and prestigious Sustainability Dubourdieu – regionality in Chile to the next of the Year Award at the Drinks level and prompting Aconcagua Business Green Awards. There Château Torres, Costa to be recognised as a new isn’t space here to detail all the denomination of origin (DO) by ongoing projects at Esporão Reynon, Spain Domaine Chilean wine law in 2012. (involving all manner of things including endangered birds, Bordeaux Recently voted the World’s Most Vacheron, Chief winemaker Francisco saving water and renewable Admired Wine Brand by Drinks Baettig is now championing a Though Bordeaux-based, Denis energy) but needless to say this International, the Torres family Sancerre, purist approach to winemaking, considers himself born into white producer is leading the way in are known for blending heritage allowing the character of each wine making – it’s what his father the environmental responsibility with innovation, beginning with France. individual terroir to show in his and grandfather made. Often category. planting non-traditional Spanish Following a visit to California wines, with the aim being to focus described as wine’s most famous varieties such as Chardonnay in the 1960s Jean Vacheron on elegance, balance, lower scientist, his skills are highly The wine trade is often accused of lacking innovation, but the reality is is reality the but innovation, lacking of accused often is trade wine The

actually quite different; look a little more closely and you find that there there that find you and closely more a little look different; quite actually and Cabernet Sauvignon in 1966 returned determined to practice alcohol and good fruit purity, sought after and he can boast is a rich tradition of endeavour and discovery which continues to this day. day. this to continues which discovery and endeavour of tradition a rich is

Pioneering families, winemakers, and scientists continue to develop industry industry develop to continue scientists and winemakers, families, Pioneering and introducing cold fermentation the latest methods he had which should offer the possibility a long list of prestigious clients changing techniques, technology and practices, changing the way we think think we way the changing practices, and technology techniques, changing

about grape growing and wine production. Here we celebrate some of the the of some celebrate we Here production. wine and growing grape about to produce a fresher and fruitier learned about during his visit. of longer cellaring potential. who all utilise his winemaking key innovators from a selection of our own producers. own our of a selection from innovators key style of white in 1970. This embracing of New World expertise including the Châteaux of Haut Bailly, Cheval Blanc and Cut to the present and we find techniques demonstrated radically d’Yquem. an enlightened approach to their forward thinking for the time. impact on the environment – they This family run estate were one Dubourdieu has always been recently pledged to the WCP of the early converts to organic interested in scientific innovation (Wineries for Climate Protection) and then shortly after, biodynamic but is particularly renowned to reduce their carbon footprint techniques in the Loire Valley, for his research into white per bottle by 20%, as well and have been a member of the wine vinification and over the as making all their buildings SIVCBD (Syndicat International past decade has discovered sustainable. Furthermore, they des Vignerons en Culture Bio- the link between wine aromas have agreed to recycle and Dynamique) since 2004. and the metabolism of yeasts. recover all materials to reduce The SIVCBD is a union of He has also done research waste, use only renewable winegrowers who apply into the aromas that wood energy, conserve biodiversity biodynamic techniques throughout ageing produces and identified and to limit their use of chemicals. their property, and have received constituents responsible for It’s fair to say this family don’t Biodyvin approval. the premature oxidation of shy away from what they see as white wines. their corporate responsibilities and that being ‘organic’ as is the fashion at the moment simply isn’t enough; being sustainable is just as important. Leading the way 18 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 19 favourite ones are below. have gathered attention, and my wouldn’t previously that gems hidden lead exciting to new discoveries and can experimentation This conventions. challenging just or techniques varieties, new things, whether it bewith grape are not innovate afraid to and try that are pushing boundaries and who and Rioja, and wines winemakers to and staples of Bordeaux, Burgundy moving away rules from the familiar massively the few last in years, changed has industry wine The innovating bediscovered. to wines it, and there are always new, exciting, because you can’t stop learning about wine, my answer always is the same – timeEvery I get asked about why I love TO ONES grape as well. An enticing nose of of nose enticing An well. as grape Furmint of the version adry making by different something trialling been have winery Béres built newly The this. just than adaptable more far is Tokaji make to used grape Furmint the But region. the from comes that wine dessert sweet, rich, the with Tokaji synonymous is name The Furmint Dry Tokaji Béres dry. and long is Finish mouth. the in texture oily interesting an and peach) and (apricot fruit stone with exciting, be to continues palate The nose. the on notes fruit tropical with you surprises wine this recognise!) (see, you one Riesling and Zuri Hondarrabi from Made ones. international alongside varieties local the byusing forward steps huge making been have wine this behind team the varieties, grape of indigenous use the to due region, the indeed and of Spain, outside unknown Relatively Spain. in country Basque the from is wine this that is name indecipherable the for reason correct…No..?this The pronounce you if 5points I’ll you give –£11.61*29939 Goianea Txakoli Uno By Judith Nicholson WATCH 20 |Matthew Clark|Vini 29130 –£19.65*

thousands of years, but the country country the but of years, thousands for wines made has Romania –£6.34* 29006 Noir Pinot Daciana finish. the at acidity racy bythe balanced well is all but sugar, residual the from sweetness some with fruits, stone with rich is palate the pineapple; and lychee of rose, aromas recognisable easily Pronounced, Pinotage. and Blanc Chenin just than more is Africa South that single-handedly, almost prove, can wine this and forward, aleap certainly is Cape Western the in aGewürztraminer Making details. more for labels the You check can person. that after named being wine each with winery, Nederburg the shape and create to helped that key figures the highlight to created was from comes wine this that range Heroes Heritage The Africa! South it’s from but It’s aGewürztraminer, –£11.54*29059 Gewürztraminer Lady Beautiful The fruit to bring a refreshing balance. arefreshing bring to fruit peach and melon enough but acidity, and minerality striking dry,is with palate The almond. and of herb hints expressive with apricot and melon

29006 29059 concentrated effort, with a cherry acherry with effort, concentrated areally is Barbera Hill Chalk The grapes. Italian native of the some are moment the at thriving especially be to seem that ones The varieties. grape unusual more with experiment to starting are of wine-makers anumber and Sauvignon, Cabernet and Shiraz well-known from on moving is Australia gem! a hidden becoming stop to going rapidly is it much so range this about I talk 28541 –£15.25* Chalk Hill Barbera spicy cinnamon notes perfectly. notes cinnamon spicy and fruit cherry black the matches and astringent, quite as seen be otherwise could that awine to fruit strawberry of rounded dimension extra an brings It fermentation. before days ten for of Carbonic use innovative and new the is apart it sets really What making. wine fine and accessibility of example agreat is Noir Pinot Daciana the and accessible, more it make to helping is ones native than rather varieties international with Experimenting borders. the over escape to managing wine of great parcels more with potential, making wine its for recognised be and show to starting just only really is

28908 29939 28908 –£19.43*28908 Beerenauslese Noir Pinot Opitz Willi stone fruits and toffee apple. toffee and fruits stone caramelised apricots, and figs dried of palate sweet alusciously with wine amber adark produces It barriques. 18 for in months matured then and vine, the on shrivelled almost are they so of October, end the until picked aren’t grapes The Beerenauslese. Noir Pinot of the form the in result afantastic with up came and wine asweet make to Noir Pinot using experimented he varieties, grape wine sweet traditional the from away Moving region. Burgenland the and country the in done be can what see to boundaries the pushing really is who aman is Opitz now, Willi but awhile for wines dessert fantastic making for known been has Austria a Barbera. from expect you finish crisp racing, that and spice peppery and floral of hints raspberries, and fruit of red palate abright you, and captivates instantly that nose redcurrant and

28541

*Bottle list price 29130 Matthew Clark|Vini | 21 2008 and, boom, out of nowhere in comes Prosecco Superiore DOCG of producers now is to show the world Rocco strive to use only the best DOCG Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene that there are differences and to give fruit in their wines, with the popular extra Prosecco and, quite literally, consumers Superiore DOCG can only be made in consumers reasons to stay engaged dry style giving a richer and rounder just can’t get enough of it. What makes it so the Treviso province of Veneto on the and to trade up. There are a number of mouthfeel without losing any of the fresh hills between the towns of Conegliano wineries putting energy and focus into acidity that makes it a stand out drink. quality, not just in terms of the liquid, but special and how has it established itself so and Valdobbiadene. Producers from Andrea Bocelli’s family have partnered also how the product is presented, to Valdobbiadene have recently tended with the Trevisiol family, who have run quickly in our restaurants, bars and lives? make that drinking occasion even more to skip the mention of Conegliano the longest continuously operating family memorable for the consumer. on their front label, calling their wine Estate in Valdobbiadene, to produce a Is it a contender for the royal throne Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. of Champagne? Certainly not. It has a There is also the smaller Asolo Prosecco Matthew Clark is constantly Superiore DOCG, produced near the kingdom all of its own, centred around the town of Asolo. reviewing its Prosecco range and a few, recent breathtakingly beautiful towns of Conegliano While the bulk of Prosecco DOC is and Valdobbiadene, at the foothills of the grown on low-lying plains in an extended additions, have really area covering 20,000 hectares, Prosecco demonstrated just which Prealps, in Veneto, Northern Italy. Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore direction Prosecco is DOCG is grown exclusively on hillside heading in. vineyards in a far smaller growing area totalling 6,586 hectares. The steepness Our recent alliance with Bottega of the hills of Valdobbiadene means that wine lauded by Wine Spectator for its The key to this wonderful drink lies in production, a semi aromatic white grape Prosecco DOC combines wines made from premium everything, from pruning to picking, is finesse and delicacy. its sheer simplicity. Unlike Champagne, called Glera (the appellation does not Prosecco DOC can be Spumante (fully DOCG fruit with amazing freshness, principally done by hand. The manual Cava and Crémant, the bubbles in allow for the production of sparkling rosé sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling) aroma and clean acidity, with I could go on and on. Prosecco are a result of secondary or red wines, despite popular belief). aspect, especially for the harvest, further and Tranquillo (still). Prosecco DOC spectacular packaging. The wines are Ultimately, watch this space. Invest in (or sometimes primary) fermentation in increases quality. Sales outside of Italy, where Prosecco Spumante is the most famous and really an extension of the character quality when it comes to Prosecco. stainless steel tanks (Charmat method), has long been appreciated as an apéritif popular variety. Prosecco DOC Frizzante Last year in the UK, sales of Prosecco that created them. Sandro Bottega Although the entry level wines are with the dead yeast cells not desirable and social drink, have hit double digit has a light, spritz like fizz. Prosecco DOC grew by just over a staggering 50%, both is someone who lives his life in vivid winners, the market is drawn to that in terms of having effect on the flavour of growth every year since 2008, an Tranquillo is a still wine, with no bubbles reaffirming our love affair and showing colour, full of imagination and creativity. enhanced experience. Bottega Gold for the wine (autolysis). Prosecco is all about incredible trend. The rules and regulations and rarely found outside of the region. that more and more of us are being His personality is evident in every a celebration or Rocco for an apéritif. clean, fresh fruit flavours, easy drinking introduced to this wonderful drink every bottle of wine that his family business governing its production underwent a Depending on their sweetness, in and it’s affordable, which is undoubtedly day. We’ve seen this before with Pinot produces and the range is set to expand Perhaps we’ll see some experimentation major overhaul in 2009. accordance with the EU sweetness a huge part of its success. The joy is in Grigio, now showing signs of slowing to incorporate new ways of thinking with bottle fermentation (the DOCG of wine regulations for terms used to its drinkability. Until the 2008 vintage, Prosecco was down in the wake of more complex and including single vineyard wines and regulations allow for it) in the near future. protected as a DOC within Italy, as indicate sweetness of sparkling wine, Maybe additional grape varieties will be Up until the 1960s the wine was pretty interesting wines that are engaging innovative, select parcel blending. Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Proseccos are labelled “Brut” (up to introduced and new sites planted. What much indistinguishable from the sweet customers and pulling them along to Prosecco di Conegliano and Prosecco di 12 grams per litre of residual sugar), Fantinel, with whom Matthew Clark is certain is that the region is not resting Asti Spumante of Piemonte. Since then, the next stages of their wine journey. Valdobbiadene. From 2009, this has been “Extra Dry” (12–17 g/l) or “Dry” (17–32 have a long standing relationship, have on its success and we’ll continue to see improved production methods and promoted to DOCG status to further g/l). Proseccos labelled with another, What next for Prosecco – will it launched a single vineyard wine ‘The the type of innovation needed to keep this shifting market trends have led to what protect the name, and an association non-protected designation, such as challenge the belief, in some circles, One and Only’, a wine awarded a is now a high standard of sparkling, region’s wines at the top of their game. of traditional Prosecco growers is “IGT-Veneto”, are generally cheaper that it is limited in what it can produce, Bronze medal in the Sommelier Awards, dry white wine. Since 2009, the name advocating a protected designation of and of a more varied quality. stylistically? Let’s face it, there’s a lot of which exhibits a depth of flavour that ‘Prosecco’ applies only to the region and origin status for Northern Italian Prosecco ‘ordinary’ Prosecco around, and whilst shows the winemaker’s dedication to the wine produced within it and not to the under European law. this is not a bad thing in itself, the focus pushing the boundaries beyond ‘normal’. name of the only grape allowed in its

22 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 23 Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV drinkable just by itself. 40% Chardonnay 18730 – £42.83* with the remainder mainly Pinot Noir and a little Meunier. There is a little extra This is a relatively new creation from dosage, around 17g/l which doesn’t create Taittinger, finished with an extra touch of overt sweetness, more of a rich and soft sweetness, it can be enjoyed from the texture. Balance is the key to this wine and start of the day right through until the end I think its spot on. This blend from 30 crus of the evening. It’s such a versatile wine has flavours of orchard fruits and ripe citrus that I could see it working with almost any and a finish that is still crisp, refreshing Starter dish or afternoon tea. The wine is also very and more-ish. Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment, variety. Barrel-fermented, the wine has a Casablanca Valley 11778 – £12.01* very complex toasty nose. On the palate there are big tropical flavours and lots of My wine of choice on Christmas day last grapefruit with a buttery texture. The finish for year – perfect with your turkey dinner. This has great length and is very elegant. You 1went down (almost) too well. Easily passable can certainly drink this on its own but some as a good quality Burgundy if tasted blind. roast white meat will bring the best out of This is a great Chardonnay from the cool the wine. Casablanca Valley, perfect for growing this

Chateau de Fesles Chenin Blanc nearly often enough. In a similar way to the Sec, Anjou 29121 – £11.14* Nocturne, there is no real overt sweetness here, just a rich mouthfeel, balanced by This is an incredible wine which has refreshing acidity. The wine spends about Sam Shepherd intrigued me from my very first sip. Chenin a year in a combination of and a little Blanc has to be one of the world’s great 2 acacia wood creating the silky texture. Nationals Wine varieties, capable of creating ethereal dry Packed with zesty citrus flavours and a Development Specialist or unctuously sweet beauties. The sec hint of toast, this is a truly unique wine that style is also something I come across not deserves its place on any good wine list.

As a kid, we very rarely had wine in the house. I remember an interview for a new job for a The odd box of hock or lacklustre bottle of regional bar manager in 2008, where I was asked basic French red at Christmas was about as fancy as questions on wine and couldn’t give any reasonable Baigorri Rioja Blanco, Barrel Fermented and aged in new French oak, the it got. So, wine certainly wasn’t on my radar of answers. I think my own ignorance was the key Fermented 29601 – £14.64* nose is filled with subtle stone fruit, elegant toasty-ness and a plethora of sweet spices. interesting commodities to pursue further. driver in tasting and learning as much as possible A stunning example of how the winemakers The palate is complex with a creamy texture My first job in the trade was in a pub aged 16. and I soon discovered the existence of WSET, who of Rioja can take the Viura grape variety, at first, balanced by a clean citrus finish and 3often responsible for wines of subtlety and I faked my date-of-birth on the application form opened up the world of wine to me. a lovely long length. I could, no doubt, polish create a complex, intense and rewarding in order to get hired. Something you wouldn’t get a bottle of this off just by itself but I think it The opportunity to join Matthew Clark came in wine. Baigorri are renowned for mixing away with these days! Throughout college and would be a great match for game terrines 2014 after six years with Living Ventures. I have tradition with state-of-the-art technology. and aged charcuterie. into uni, I had a couple of waiter and bartender loved every minute since, because I get to work jobs which I absolutely loved. with amazing people and producers. I have picked I was then given a choice; continue at uni or take out the following ten wines as absolute belters Eileen Hardy Chardonnay, ten months to create a near perfect acid a job as restaurant manager. I took the latter option. for this time of year. The season’s delights are all Tasmania-Yarra Valley structure. The nose has great depth with full of belly-busting big flavours, so I like to match 28180 – £23.05* stone fruits accenting the vanilla and precise 10wines that stand up to this. use of oak. The palate and finish are Like so many of the great Aussie wines, precise with everything seamlessly falling Eileen Hardy is a multi-regional blend. Top together and integrating in harmony. The quality fruit is sourced from the cool regions length is well over a minute and each sip of Tasmania and Yarra and fermented is a discovery4 of new flavour combinations. in French oak. Around 65% of the wine I think I know what I’m having with my undergoes malolactic and the remainder Christmas dinner this year…. is blended together and aged for around *Bottle list price 24 | Matthew Clark | Vini 5 Matthew Clark | Vini | 25 Tierra Fuerte Graciano, Mentrida in the best Rioja wines, probably due to its 28422 – £9.67* very low yields. This wine is deep, dark and powerful with a very pronounced nose of My #1 hidden gem of the whole portfolio. black cherry, ripe strawberry and toasty A wine that made me think ‘wow’ when I oak. The tannin is soft and well integrated first tasted it. When I think of Spain, the first and with good acidity which makes for a region that pops into my head certainly isn’t pleasing finish. I was lucky enough to taste Mentrida (near Madrid) and the first grape the new 2012 in Spain recently, which I variety isn’t Graciano. Tasting this wine will think raises the quality bar of this wine place both in the front of your thoughts. again. Incredible value. Graciano seems to only be used sparingly

Te Awa Syrah, Hawkes Bay wines of the Rhone Valley, rather than 29086 – £15.04* the fruit monsters of South-Australia. Aged in large oak barrels for 14 months. Hawkes Bay is the oldest wine region of The wine is elegant and precise with an New Zealand. Wine making began in the underlying savoury spice backbone. Lots of 6early 20th century on the well-draining character, full of pepper, liquorice and game. gravel soils which Syrah thrives on. Style Well restrained, yet powerful, as Syrah wise, this is classic Hawkes Bay Syrah, should be. I would accompany the wine which to me, is closer in style to the great with slow cooked lamb and seasonal root vegetables, delicious.

La Roncaia Refosco, a top Amarone. The aromas are similar to Colli Orientali Friuli 27136 – £22.36* the fresh mince-meat mix before it’s baked in the mince pies, ripe cherry and lots of La Roncaia is located in the north east of sweet spice. The wine is good to drink Italy around 5 miles from the Slovenian straight away but there is a definite punch border, 250 metres above sea level. I love of tannin, so 7might be worth decanting for the label of the wine which shows the an hour or two to soften. Even though the contours and hills of the region. The grapes wine is very full bodied and high in alcohol, are hand-picked and allowed to partially the finish is still fresh and crisp, as you might dry before fermentation and receive 18 expect of a wine from the region. months ageing in oak. When the cork is first popped, the aromas remind me of

Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim, I think at this stage of its development, Vintage Port 10381 – £26.81* I would find it almost impossible to tell this apart from the more prestigious declared 8So, during the season I gorge myself to a years though. The 2004 is still really level close to explosion on a daily basis, I youthful, so it still has a great life ahead. It find it necessary to close the curtains on still has quite heavy tannin, so could benefit an evening with Port. Why? Maybe it’s just from some air a couple of hours before purely greed but perhaps it’s just because drinking. Having said that, it really is drinking Reach for Port is so darn tasty. This wine from Dow’s well now. Baked soft fruits are underpinned is made in great years where the vintage is by a menthol and clove character. Enticing not quite good enough to be ‘declared.’ and yummy. Bring on the cheese! the moon By Tiffany Mogg

Sandeman 20 Year Old Tawny As expected, this is a wine of great New Moon Co, established by restaurant Port NV 22350 – £31.98* complexity. Cooked and dried fruits explode onto the nose and palate. stalwarts, Paul Newman and David Mooney, Tawny Port is probably my favourite Even though you know it’s old, the is behind seven successful venues across the of all the fortified wines. There is just characters still seem incredibly fresh. north-west. Their goal is to bring pubs back something about it that seems to drag 9 Rancio flavours have started to develop to life through a greater customer experience me into the glass, whizz me around on too, adding to the complexity and across the board, I caught up with them to find a carousel of flavour explosion and leave morphing every sip into a different out some secrets to their success. me wanting more at the end of a bottle. sensation. A personal favourite with This is the kind of wine I find myself Christmas pudding.

taking a sniff on, in the empty glass. *Bottle list price 1026 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 27 That’s a lot for two business men to have under their belt, can you let us know any ‘secrets to your success’? I’d have to say that we employ the right people who share our committed vision and drive; to be a market leader by giving a top notch experience to people through good food and drink. We want Dave and I are living the dream and it’s great to Our industry changes very quickly, we like to be our customers to remember us and tell all their be able to do that with one of your good friends. leaders of the pack, so we work closely with our family and friends, to say ‘hey, guess where I ate Since we opened our first site just over four years suppliers such as Matthew Clark who can come in last night?’ We definitely bring our personalities ago, The Lord Binning, we’ve taken New Moon and provide up-to-date products, knowledge and to our sites and the staff play a massive part in Company to such dizzy heights and who knows advise on what’s going on in the market. Our staff that too. It’s no surprise that they’re bubbly and where that will lead us. We give our customers sample all the menus and drinks and whether a outgoing, some can be a bit edgy, but overall a fantastic experience and are so proud of our table of 4 or 35, Dave and I know our guests will they’re passionate and know our products inside ethos; serving quality food and drink, mixed all be treated the New Moon way. out. We can’t ask for more than that. with the finest sourced ingredients and making Without the right staff and the right product stunning dishes with our own signature twists. So you credit much of your success knowledge we would not have expanded the way to your staff? we have and are. We have an open door policy; Friends and business don’t always mix, our staff know we are approachable and their how do you make it work for you, and We hire staff we see something special in – thoughts and feedback matter. how do you divvy up the chores? special people for special places. They’ve got

similar traits; they’re young, experienced, chatty, We’ve got a combined 30 years experience within So what’s next for the New Moon Co? vivacious and knowledgeable. They’re not afraid our industry and both bring valuable areas of to come to us with ideas about how we can thrive The New Year has a lot in store for us. We expertise. Of course, we have our strengths and more. We know we can open sites, put the right are looking at several new sites in Liverpool, weaknesses; David is a phenomenal Chef, his people in and find more opportunities. We’ve got Manchester and a few other top secret areas! passion for sourcing top ingredients is second to over 250 people working for us. We spin a lot We get around six offers for sites on the table none and he’s great with our customers. I look of plates but keep them spinning! Our winning per month, but for us it’s about that gut feeling. after the business side of things for the most formula is to stay positive, employ the right people It’s that gut feeling which led to us developing our part. We’re both hands on and wouldn’t have and have a very strong passion to succeed. Our eighth site, our second in Knutsford, called The it any other way. Each day sees us at about staff buy into this, we buy into this and we know Bronx, it is due to open in November 2015. three different sites – we’re visible and have an Do you rely on attracting new customers So you’re treated well then? What’s our customers see it too. open door policy. We have head of department with tools such as social media, or is the best way, you have found, that we You have personal experience, gut meetings every Friday, rotating around each site. repeat custom more important? really show off our range to you and get This time of year is so busy for outlets instinct and a great team…is there The unit managers tell us exactly what’s going on. Across our estate repeat business happens in you excited about our drinks offering? like yours, how do you cope with group anything else you would recommend abundance, but we don’t sit back and rely upon it. Matthew Clark have very kindly arranged several Our business is everything, our baby. Everything bookings or large parties – we all know for aspiring newcomers to the on-trade We want all our guests to experience and discover supplier trips which have been key to discovering we do is a joint effort and it’s that ethos we push they can be difficult to manage? to help pave their way? New Moon in the best way possible and to keep new products, and gaining a fully-rounded product across our staff. Our success is all part of the We do take the bigger groups and parties – for us We’ve built our business with key people, great returning time after time. knowledge that we then in turn can filter down combined team effort of what some may call our it’s all about giving customers the complete New sites and wonderful products. I have to say the line to our staff. It’s no secret David and I like dysfunctional family! We give our customers Moon Company experience. We give them great though; social media is vast becoming such a What about those troughs in trading a drink, it’s a perk of the job, and the staff know a fantastic experience food and drink in a relaxed atmosphere that they huge part of New Moon. As an example of how times, any gold nuggets of advice to that we share our success. It’s been known once Oh so you’re right in the thick of it can kick back and be themselves in. We’ve got a and are so proud of our useful it can be, we have The Rushton Grill at get bums on seats? or twice for us to have an impromptu staff wine- all the time then? strong team of hosts and BDMs who can easily ethos; serving quality The Old Blind School in Liverpool; it is the biggest With January fast approaching we do offer 50% tasting to sample some of the new discoveries David often jumps on expo, which makes amazing deal with big groups and parties. Sometimes food and drink, mixed grill in the north-west and made the national off food, which has always worked and kept us we find on supplier trips. This massively helps viewing. We want to entertain our guests and see guests not turning up on time or forgetting what with the finest sourced papers with over 4 million hits in over 24 hours! busy during leaner times. our customers’ experience resulting in great the passion our chefs have, and this definitely their pre-orders are can be a massive challenge, ingredients, making All our sites their social media giving it sales across the board. It also gives us both a shines through. I’m often on front of house but you just have to have a good team that stunning dishes with our a unique personality, and it helps us to directly As simple as that then!? Have you personal connection which we find invaluable. chatting to our customers, hearing their thoughts are prepared and cope with quick change and own signature twists speak to current customers. Social media also always worked with Matthew Clark, Keep them coming! and feedback. We have a phrase, ‘the failure of ad-libbing. We try to remain as flexible for our allows us to engage with new potential customers. or have we managed to ‘win you over’ success’, deep at the heart of our core training customers as possible. It really is a must these days. over another drinks company? Do either of you have and both David and I are very hands on for that any favourite wines? I started working with Matthew Clark over reason. It can be surprising to guests when they Do you train your staff to cope with Either personally, or for Wow that’s an enviable following, 30 years ago when it was still called Grants of realise we’re the owners. We get a lot of comments this sort of thing then? your business/customers? how does this engagement with those St James, my representative was Tim Nutter. back about how it gives a sense of approachability. Our staff are trained intensively for two week customers drive them into your outlets? However, New Moon have worked with you for a Both of us love great periods by our company trainer. Then they go into We’ve got VIP loyalty cards, offer local business good few years and we have an amazing working wines, a great perk of What has been your proudest a site, we have in store trainers that pick up their discounts and been known to run the odd wine relationship. Your customer service, commitment the job! Our current achievement? training needs. Every day is a school day! Staff evening or 50! and dedication to New Moon is second to none. personal favourites Overall our biggest success has been our growth. training is key to our success and is paramount Together we work out the many concepts that are Soave Classico, We would never have dreamed that four years ago to moving forward. Each site has an IST and we We see our sites as our kids with their own make us New Moon. We’re a young company that Bolla (11997 £6.81*) we would have eight sites across the north-west also have a full-time company trainer based in our personalities; different needs and different dreams big and you nail any brief we give you. and Te Awa Left with several more in the pipeline, and this is only head office. customer bases that need to be individually Field Albariño, the beginning! We’re living the dream. nurtured. For example at Beef & Pudding in We’re going to be opening The Bronx, our second Gisborne (29080 Manchester we offer an express lunch menu that place in Knutsford soon, this is going to be a wet Highlights have included us opening the doors to £10.41*). appeals to local businesses that need a quick bite led venue – a first for us. Our concept is to serve The Old Blind School in Liverpool with over 220 to eat. We offer breakfast seven days a week at quality and tasty cocktails in a unique night spot, On that note, you’ve reminded me covers; our biggest site to date and took us to The Old Blind School, and at The Lord Binning in with a down and dirty theme. Matthew Clark is that great wines are also a perk of my another level. The city has taken us to their hearts Kelsall we have a market-place menu. We try to helping us achieve this with the vast portfolio of job. Looking forward to the next part and we’re seen as a culinary powerhouse. We’ve meet the demands of our local customers. stock, even bringing new brand suggestions to of the adventure in our partnership! made the national press several times since June the table. 2015. These days it’s not uncommon for the odd Cheers guys! TV camera crew to show up! We were so chuffed We have a great working relationship with Dave to win The Cheshire Business Awards 2014. It’s Kelly too, he is our Wine Development Specialist, great to receive that recognition in our home area. he’s a pleasure to work with and his knowledge Wow so much… I obviously can’t pick just one! base is wide and varied, just what we need. *Bottle list price

28 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 29 The wine industry is often criticised for using jargon and terms that have relatively undefined meanings. Buzzwords have their uses and certainly add a little something when trying to pitch one wine against the other. However, often the consumer rather than the ‘wine expert’ loses out, often being left, talked down to, with assumed knowledge, and perhaps too embarrassed to ask. In a new series for Vini, we will be tackling some of these buzzwords and explaining in plain English what they mean and the effect on wine. Simon Haywood

ALTITUDE The phrase ‘high-altitude 500 metres would seem fairly day-time temperatures) falls almost equal in importance. alongside altitude that make steep hills cannot be farmed vineyards’ is increasingly being high, whilst in Argentina 500 as the altitude increases. This Mountains can affect vineyards quality wine production viable. by machine. All picking, used as a marketing term on metres is considered quite low. effect has opened up potential planted close to them; whilst The cost of providing pruning, and protecting of wine labels, but what effect Practically all the vineyards vineyard areas which were the Vosges Mountains protect resources to farm vineyards the precious grapes has to does it actually have and what in the Mendoza region of previously considered too hot Alsace from westerly rain- at high altitude is also a key be done by hand and labour does it bring to the wine? Argentina are planted between for viticulture, in hotter areas bearing winds, making it one factor to consider and will is an expensive resource. Firstly what constitutes 600 and 1,100 metres above of Spain, Greece or South of France’s driest regions; most definitely have an effect Vineyards in extremely high ‘high-altitude’? Apparently sea level - so already there is a Africa for example. However, the Andes creates a rain on the cost of the final bottle. only one association, the grey area on what qualifies as height and climate are not the shadow over vineyards in Whilst snow melt provides altitude areas such as Elqui in European Centre for Research, ‘high-altitude’. only factors to be considered Argentina necessitating water for a ‘natural’ irrigation Chile (2,000 metres above sea Environmental Sustainability The effect of altitude on the when searching for the perfect irrigation – not something system in months without level) also tend to be isolated and Advancement of Mountain vine and vineyard varies with location to plant a vineyard. needed in Alsace. Mountains rainfall (Irrigating vines is so labour is hard to come by Viticulture (CERVIM) has had a other factors such as latitude The closer to the equator you in Chile and California channel often not permitted in many as well, recruiting from further go at defining the term, setting and the landscape. It is get, the warmer the average fog, mist and clouds over protected quality vineyard away adds further to the its use for vineyards that are generally the case that average annual temperature is to start vineyards that benefit from areas across the world) there overall production expense. a minimum of 500 metres diurnal temperatures (the with; and humidity levels, their cooling influence. In short is a cost to farming close to above sea level. In Europe difference between night and aspect, and rain protection are it’s a culmination of factors the snow-line. Vineyards on

30 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 31 “When the plant is exposed to the most dramatic conditions, it produces more quality.”

The advantage of farming The big advantage is that around the mouth. These richer fruit flavours. vineyards at altitude do offset vineyards on slopes at raised acidity levels tend to be Vineyards in the mountains of Join us at these extra costs. Sunlight high altitude get more created in grapes that ripen in Western Cape of South Africa is a basic requirement for solar radiation, whilst cooler temperatures – such as also benefitting from cool or in Andalucía in Spain will growing most plants, if you those found at altitude. temperatures, particularly at rightly advertise the fact that can increase the luminosity of night, this slows down the Vineyards at high altitudes their wines are grown at ‘high the sunlight and the number grapes ripening process, that are steep and exposed altitude’ as they expect the of sunshine hours that a plant, which in turn increases also tend to be quite windy enlightened consumers to such as a grapevine gets, the production of flavour places. Wind, providing it’s know it equates to intensified the more it flourishes and compounds in the skin. At the not too strong, is often a flavours in the wine whilst the fruit will more fully ripen. same time that these flavour desirable vineyard factor, not being overbearingly Well-ripened grapes means compounds are developing intense flavours in wine. At the sugars are ripening, this particularly in hot or coastal alcoholic with jammy fruit. altitude, with less atmosphere, tends to happen slower as vineyards as firstly it inhibits Altitude has also opened the intensity, or UV properties, well, the result is that the disease in the grapes by up wine production in parts of the sun is increased. Also grapes are often harvested cooling the vines down and of the world never thought the diurnal temperature range with fully-ripe flavours before removing moisture in the air; possible such a Bolivia and the sugar levels have risen to is increased as the ‘thinner’ secondly it also thickens the the Himalayas in China. With levels that would make the atmosphere at altitude skin of the grapes, or can both qualitative and viability wine very alcoholic – say 14 to make the grapes smaller and advantages associated with cools quicker once the sun 15 %ABV. These more elegant is sets. These wide diurnal wines with complex flavours more concentrated. Thick high-altitude grape farming temperature ranges heavily also have a more pronounced grape skins results in deep we can certainly expect to see influence the quality of the and attractive acidity, which colouration and high tannin in more of it in the future. wines produced. beautifully carries the flavours red wine, as well as darker,

Salentein Primus Malbec, Flagstone Time Manner Place Tenuta del Porconero Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina Pinotage Reserve, Breedekloof, Falanghina, Campania, Italy 25085 £26.98* South Africa 29005 £29.80* 29115 £9.37* The Uco Valley is considered one of the Winemaker Bruce Jack has more than The winery and vineyards of San Salvatore Save the date 8th March 2016 top wine growing areas in Argentina, the just steep slopes at 700 m above sea level are situated in the heart of the Cilento grapes for Primus are grown 1150 metres to manage here. His precious grapes, National Park, 500 m above sea level. above sea level on low-Yielding vines. from just a small vineyard plot, are regularly Certified organic and exclusively adopting The palate is full bodied with a complex ransacked by baboons, who enjoy nothing biological processes and biodynamic aroma of red and black berries, and spices more than a breakfast of Pinotage fruit! practises, the wines from this producer such as clove and black-pepper, yet it’s all exhibit character and freshness. remarkably well balanced with freshness It seems that nothing can stop these huge to carry the weight of the fruit. creatures. After building an electric fence I particularly like the Falanghina for its floral to try and keep them out, Bruce witnessed tones on the nose, with dried herbs, citrus A perfect example of the complexities a large adult baboon throw a little one at high notes and stone fruit on the palate. that can be achieved when using altitude the fence to see where it sparked! The in your favour. Wine-maker Jose Galante crafty creatures soon figured out that (previously of Catena Zapata for 30 years) mountain fogs dampened the ‘shock “Stunning tasting, Nominated for: says “when the plant is exposed to the factor’ and so still feast on the exceptional most dramatic conditions, it produces wine grapes when the weather is in their probably the best I’ve ‘In-House Event more quality.” favour. Only 1,200 bottles of this vibrant and exacting wine are made each year, so attended in my life” of the Year’ I’m afraid it’s still you against the baboon for consumption, and I’m not joking. *Bottle list price

32 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 33 Celebrating innovation with M Restaurants The restaurant and drinks industry’s finest gathered at Vinopolis to celebrate a year of achievement. We are delighted to report that one of our lovely customers made it an historical night winning two awards. M won Best New Restaurant 2015 and sommelier extraordinaire Zack Charilaou also won Best UK Sommelier 2015 in the Harpers Awards. Michelle and the buying team caught up with Zack Charilaou over some celebratory fizz to discover the secrets of their success and what innovation means in the sommelier’s world.

What white grape varietal is leading in terms of What innovation will we encounter in the sommelier’s innovation? Terroir driven Sauvignon Blanc will be world, what are you championing? I’m on a mission to the white I will be championing. There is immense make wine accessible to all. I’m hoping we as sommeliers experimentation in the vineyards with Sauvignon will start to put wine lists together for our customers, not Blanc, they are treating the grape much like they for our peers in the sommelier’s world. Future wine lists would Chardonnay from Burgundy. We are seeing the will be easy to navigate, feel safe but allow for exploration. emergence of single vineyard plots and oak ageing. There will be a glossary of terms which will be down to earth and use adjectives that are relevant and are more What red grape varietal is leading in terms importantly, fun. of innovation? Cabernet Franc, particularly from Argentina. Cabernet Franc has almost been How is your experience working with Matthew discarded in its birthplace Bordeaux and Argentina has Clark? My perceptions have been totally changed. become the perfect ‘orphanage’ for Bordeaux grapes. I initially thought that a large corporate company would Most of the Cabernet Franc was planted before the not provide the service a small independent may provide. 1900s and is pre-phillaroxea. The wines are super I must say you have shrugged off that perception and your delightful and elegant to drink making them a perfect service is intimate, warm and personable. Your efficiency choice at lunchtime. has totally surpassed expectations.

Martin Williams (ex Gacho Grill CEO) opened the multifaceted venue M in Threadneedle Street in December 2014.

M Restaurant is a stunning venue space, split into the can find the fully private VIP dining room, a drinkable Grill dining area and a Raw bar, the upstairs hosts the art installation and a photo booth. cocktail bar, private dining spaces and the secret M Victoria Street opens on December 5th and will M Den which is fabulous fun with a Playstation, include a spectacular wine store. whiskey lockers and a foosball table. Downstairs you

34 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 35 The Vini Wine Movies

Wine definitely wasn’t left on the cutting room floor Tell us a little bit about popular in a very short period of Casa Rojo: Our team are a time. We were voted among the when it came to these flicks … We composed our young and passionate group of most important in brands on impact top 12 here at Vini HQ. wine lovers. Founded in 2010 and consideration wine company in headed up by Laura Muñoz and Spain in 2015 in the wine industry. CASA ROJO Sideways Jose Luis Gomez (economist IE We have had great success in luxury (2004) MBA postgrade, sommelier and high end chain stores that are often Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church, Virginia Madsen 1 winemaker by the UMH). With hard to approach and hard to get 20 years’ experience managing into, such El Corte Ingles and Club Withnail & I (1987) wineries, selling wine and working del Gourmet. They listed our seven Richard E. Grant, Paul McGann, Richard Griffiths 2 in vineyards, they then decided MASTERS wines (this is unique and historic, to set up their own business with since no other company has seven Live and Let Die (1973) a different perspective, using all wines listed there) and we are there Roger Moore, Yaphet Kotto, Jane Seymour their experience in love, design, today, in less than one and a half 3 viticulture, pleasure and fashion. years after the presentation of The Wine Gurus, we are second in sales A Good Year (2006) Please explain the concept in their stores, after the Vega Sicilia Russell Crowe, Abbie Cornish, Albert Finney of Casa Rojo? How did you 4 Group. come up with the concept? OF ART Mondovino (2004) Casa del Rojo is the name of a wine With General Manager, José Luis Gomez In other parts of the world we are created by Laura’s great-grandfather also in the coolest wine stores in the Albiera Antinori, Allegra Antinori, Lodovico Antinori 5 in 1920. This was the inspiration in world (Wein & Co in Austria, Husted the beginning of this project. Today, Vin & Troeffelsvin in Denmark, A Walk in the Clouds (1995) we at Casa Rojo consider a bottle of Nicolas in France, Lavinia in Spain, Keanu Reeves, Aitana Sánchez-Gijón, Anthony Quinn 6 wine to be a masterpiece of art. Sansibar in Germany, Les Genereux Art and innovation; causing pleasure in Holland and Aeon in Japan). From The Year of the Comet (1992) to the eyes, nose and taste to the Aruba to Kazakhstan, we export Penelope Ann Miller, Tim Daly, Louis Jourdan new generation of consumers. to 34 countries, and are listed in 7 Spain is a very traditional and classic some of the best restaurants of the wine sector and we think that with world; NOMA (best restaurant in the The Secret of Santa Vittoria (1969) our labels, packaging and concept world), The Jane (2 stars Michelin Anthony Quinn, Anna Magnani, Virna Lisi 8 we can create a revolution to shake Belgium), Can Dani (1 star Michelin things up. Ibiza), Can Roca Gastronomy French Kiss (1995) UCAM, Kempinski Vienna, to name We have experienced an Meg Ryan, Kevin Kline, Timothy Hutton a few. 9 overwhelming response so far ex-Chateau Haut-Brion) to growers, How did you select the including write ups in the best wine from sommeliers (such Fran labels/names? Smoking How do you see your concept Bottle Shock (2008) guides, 17 gold medals for the best Hidalgo, 3rd best sommelier ASM) marijuana…(laughs)… Well, no, influencing the wine market Chris Pine, Alan Rickman, Bill Pullman 10 wines of the world in their categories to journalists, from designers (such they just come to our team after we in the future? We have opened and mentions in international design Miguel Angel del Baño) to film finish each project in a very natural a new door in a classic industry. The Great Gatsby (1974) contests. The Wine Gurus project makers (such Adrian Otero). All of and non-forced exercise of matching We are the first company to succeed , Mia Farrow, Bruce Dern features winemaking oriented to us are wine lovers, all of us have the the result, the wine that we have in mixing three concepts: Terroir, 11 develop the intensity and the taste same target and wish: to generate produced, with the right naming fashion and design and we will of the most important grapes and high quality pleasure in every bottle and dressing. It is the easiest part keep on working to improve our Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) terroirs from Spain. The project created by Casa Rojo. of all since we understand that the wines, whilst keeping an eye on the Audrey Hepburn, George Peppard, Patricia Neal 12 came up as a result of a clear branding has to match the wine, the fashion industry to react to what’s How did you select the demand of a consumer not in terroir, and the story. Each project going on, and developing more regions? We were very rigorous love any more with boring wines, takes four to five years so we have attractive presentations every year in our selection process and the classic images and old fashion a bit of time to create the perfect for our wines. seven projects were all selected for communication tools. wrapping. There is always a reason for a number of reasons: terroir, quality We have the recognition of a wine, for a project, and that reason How did you and the rest of and age of the vines, size of the magazines, journalists, national TV would always be linked to a concept. the team all meet? The Casa vineyards, quality and honesty of the channels, but the most important for You just need to find it out... Rojo team (in the picture) is formed owners, location, grape variety, us, we have an amazing recognition by different professionals around type of wild yeasts on skin, the What has been the reaction from the consumer, who is perfect the wine world, all with different winery, their market expectations, to your wines so far? We are and wise...always. perspectives. From winemakers marketing strategy, global offer, overwhelmed about what is going (special mention to Patrick Meraz, time available from our master on around us and the noise we are Interview by Siobhan Irons winemakers (Jose Luis and Laura) creating. We have become etc etc, I could go on… 36 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 37 Here at Matthew Clark we Torres Natureo Muscat have four de-alcoholised 24465 – £5.90* wines on our list – all of Natureo white wine is made with 100% Muscat grapes. which use this favoured As you might expect the Muscat aromas really are pronounced, Spinning Cone Column the wine is very floral reminiscent (SCC) which means they all of elderflower, with green apple and peach tones. Very refreshing retain the actual smell and and silky to drink. taste of a wine. By Tiffany Mogg

The wine snob in us says that there is no point in drinking Although born of necessity in Scotland, on our list; red, white, rose and sparkling, Torres Natureo Rose it does demonstrate the potential these all of which use this favoured Spinning 26528 – £5.90* de-alcoholised wine, it doesn’t taste as good so why bother? products have in other areas where Cone Column (SCC) which means they all My personal favourite of the range perhaps drivers would otherwise turn to a retain the actual smell and taste of a wine. is made with Syrah and Cabernet soft drink or water. When looking at our Sauvignon grapes, which receive Well yes, you’re right, it certainly is unmistakably different to Hurrah! sales across the whole of the UK we can 24 hours of maceration with the the regular stuff, let alone a ‘good’ bottle of wine. But, that see this effect is particularly pertinent in Here comes the science bit; The Spinning skins and must before to provide that all important wine like food orientated outlets where the food Cone Column state of the art technology is flavour and tannin. It is a vibrant doesn’t mean it should be disregarded all together. is complemented by the drink choice. a gas-liquid contact column that separates pink colour with ripe red berry Interestingly particularly in hotels, which selectively volatile compounds in liquids notes on the palate. In my humble I assume are hotels out of city centres based on a dual extraction process. First opinion it’s the most ‘wine’ like of 1 the three. I’ve purchased several In the UK 36% of wine drinkers are buyers of lower a reason given by a massive 11% of drinkers, music with ‘destination restaurants’, whereby the aroma (flavour) of the wine is separated alcohol wine and 20% are open to buying it if they to your ears surely for any On-Trade outlet? bottles myself and drunk it quite at least one person in the booking always out. Then, the wine, free of aroma, passes merrily. haven’t already. Whilst 62%2 of wine consumers could has to be the designated driver. Demand Here at Matthew Clark (never behind on a drinks through the SCC again to eliminate the find a reason to be interested in low-alcohol products. will only increase over the approaching alcohol. The original aroma fraction is then 3 trend) we have a plethora of non-alcoholic drinks to Out of the 29 million regular wine drinkers in the UK festive period. added back into the wine. It is a highly Torres Natureo Syrah those are some compelling numbers to be considered. choose from, and notably the wine is gaining some serious sales traction. With the drop in Scotland’s There are several ways to remove alcohol selective molecular distillation process 26527 – £5.90* The reasons cited by those questioned to drink or drink drive limit, we are seeing a corresponding from a fermented liquid; some wineries which totally avoids any thermal damage The red is made with 100% look out for low/no alcohol wines are in the main increase in the consumption of non-alcoholic wines just add water, diluting the alcohol to an or stress to the wine. Syrah grapes which are treated fairly obvious; health benefits, lower calories, north of the border. Since the new legislation was accepted ‘low level’, however, as you exactly as any ‘normal’ Syrah The winemaker can therefore: would be in the winery, even concerns over drink-driving (particularly pertinent this introduced on 5th December 2014, Matthew Clark can imagine this just results in a diluted • Separate all of its delicate, receiving 4-6 months French oak time of year) but perhaps more surprisingly, some has seen the volumes increase rapidly as consumers liquid with no character. You can also filter ageing prior to being stabilised, people actually prefer the taste. The lower cost is protect their driving licenses without compromising out alcohol, but this changes the overall volatile aroma components filtered and de-alcoholised. It has appealing, and staying ‘in control’ with an adult drink their desire for great tasting wines. The chart below structure and makes the acidity and tannin • Remove the alcohol from this charming hedgerow fruit flavours were also all listed. Being able to ‘drink more’ was also illustrates the phenomenal growth. appear harsher as well as filtering out the and a juicy palate, keeping it light de-aromatised portion and easy going. desirable elements such as flavour. • Suffer no loss or damage to the flavour Matthew Clark de-alcoholised 9l volume Prestige hotel Quality food led Quality hotel Value food led Some low alcohol wines have had fruit juice or grape must added, again to dilute • Restore the aroma/flavour compounds 300 the alcohol element but add some flavour to the de-alcoholised wine too, but this turns it into another drink 250 • Enjoy the “best of both worlds”: Codorníu Zero altogether, and thus loses any desirability for full ripe flavours, yet softness on 29794 – £4.80* 200 someone that has an appreciation of ‘wine’ the palate This delightful bubbly has more and is looking for a serious alternative. similarities to an Asti than a 150 The added sweetness also then makes Wine is such a delicate and temperamental Cava, in that it shows lashings

100 the beverage lose its food compatibility. To thing, changing the natural balance always of tropical fruit and apple, with a summarise, these processes are accepted risks robbing it of its vinous authenticity. pleasing touch of well-balanced sweetness. The off-dry element 50 but quite harsh, and as well as removing The SCC system really is the best way of means that it’s an absolute the alcohol they also remove flavours and maintaining aroma and flavour. 0 winner for a lunch time serving mouth feel, which is what makes these Our range of low/no alcohol wines come with a spot of cake, or served in beverages identifiable in the first place. the evening as an aperitif. from arguably the two most innovative MAT JulyMAT JulyMAT MAT May MAT May MAT JuneMAT JuneMAT MAT April MAT April Or of course, for those that MAT March MAT March

MAT August MAT August Thankfully, there is one last option wineries in Spain, if not the world. Torres MAT JanuaryMAT JanuaryMAT MAT OctoberMAT OctoberMAT

MAT February MAT February MAT actually do like a sweeter tipple MAT November MAT November MAT MAT December MAT December MAT MAT September MAT September MAT available. It’s technical, it is more expensive and Codorníu. The still wines come from but won’t admit to it, the “yeah and requires serious investment, but it’s Torres and all have just 0.5% abv. The I definitely prefer Prosecco to also by far the best. Here at Matthew fizz as you might expect hails from Cava Champagne” gang. Why not try it as an alternative to Bucks Fizz? 1. Wine Intelligence, Sept 2014: Lower Alcohol Wines 2. Harpers report, July 2014: Low-Alcohol Wine 3. Wine Intelligence, Sept 2014: Lower Alcohol Wines Clark we have four de-alcoholised wines champions Codorníu, with 0% abv. *Bottle list price

38 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 39 Like many of you I’m sure, my Christmas dinner plate always ends up with such a titanic array of flavours, that it is a difficult On the twelfth day... meal to match wine. I tend to find something indulgent that would suit the main player on the plate (for me that’s definitely the meat) that I wouldn’t normally drink. So whether it’s traditional turkey, goose, lamb, beef or nut roast ...my true love that will be donning your table this year here are a few of my suggestions to enjoy with your feast. There’s a wine for most palates and pockets sizes! tantalised my tastebuds By Zoe Coombs

Pinot Gris Alsace, Herencia Altés Cupatge Côtes du Rhône, Vidal Reserve Chardonnay, Altos de Losada, The Federalist Visionary Portrait Range, Syrah-Garnatxa Negra- Les Abeilles Blanc, Hawke’s Bay Mencía, Bierzo Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley Domaine Zinck Samsó, Terra Alta Jean-Luc Colombo 29098 £10.71* 29946 £15.16* 25534 £19.13* 1 26942 £10.56* 2 28418 £7.12* 3 25877 £9.49* 7 8 9

Dry with a refreshing palate that carries the Look what happens in Spain when you This stunning wine from the Northern This beautifully balanced wine for me shows Wow. This new addition to our list is a This wine has made the list as it has been aromas of greengage, green apple and a combine the Côtes du Rhône grapes Rhone ‘god’ Jean Luc Colombo, is not only a how wonderful the marriage of Chardonnay modern interpretation of the Mencía grape the wine of choice at our Christmas table touch of spice and smokiness beautifully to Garnacha (Grenache), Syrah and Samsó! delicious blend of Clairette (which gives this and oak can be. The oak barrels were variety with plenty of fruit and weight on the for the last couple of years. It’s an all-round a finish with a well-balanced richness. The A blend of a third each of Syrah, Garnacha particular wine the freshness that you don’t selected to give a subtle flavour adding palate. The grapes come from low-yielding enjoyable wine that has bags of body and grapes were grown on clay-silt soils on hills Tinta and Samsó; with the Garnacha Tinta always find in white CdR), Grenache, Viognier to the natural complexity gained from an bush vines that are between 50 and 100 layers of flavours partially due to the 15 with a near perfect south-easterly aspect. grapes coming from the low-yielding bush and Roussanne, but it has another ‘feel good extended maturation on the lees. This wine years old, grown on quartz and slate soils in months in oak barrels and partly down to This is a stunning wine for a wide range of vines that grow in the vineyards around the factor’ … for every bottle sold 10p goes to from Hawke’s Bay shows ripe tropical fruit, a the Bierzo region in north-west Spain. Here, the ripeness of the grapes and the perfect starters including the old favourite of smoked village of Batea. It shows a blackberry and the British Bee Keeping Association. Another complex minerality and elegant finish which at altitudes of over 500 metres the grapes conditions in the Dry Creek Valley. It is fruit salmon on blini, and it also has enough violet fruit character with notes of oak spice, reason to feel good whilst slurping over the is great with poultry. ripen slowly until they are hand-picked and forward with blackberry and black cherry oomph for the main course, particularly if you a small amount of oak-ageing is employed festive period! It has beautiful intense floral eventually aged in French oak for 15 months. aromas and spicy notes; the palate is favour goose or even gammon. It’s not just and around two months in French oak aromas and flavours of candied lemons. On the nose there is plenty of toasty balanced and mouth-filling with a rich texture me who thinks it’s good: International Trophy barrels. This is a zany, unhinged, medium- and long finish. The elegant, savoury, berry- Off Dry Over £15 (2012) Decanter World oak character overlaying a heady mix of bodied red, which you can drink with turkey Bay of Fires Riesling, blackberry, cassis, cherry-cola and lavender; fruit flavours are excellent with game, wild Wine Awards 2014 & GOLD (2011) Sommelier and all the trimmings. It will duck and dive mushrooms, rich chicken and beef dishes. Wine Awards 2014. Tasmania the palate is firm but with sweet tannins and beautifully as it negotiates this incredibly Bay of Fires Pinot Noir, 29190 £10.40* an elegant, silky finish. This is a red meat diverse palette of flavours. Tasmania kind of wine. 29187 £11.0 6 * Gonzalez Byass Noe, Kleine Zalze Vineyard 10 Pedro Ximénez Selection Chenin Blanc, Pouilly-Fuissé Pinot Noir Vin de France, Muy Viejo Stellenbosch Les Petites Pierres, 6 Bouchard 22066 37,5cl £21.68* 12098 £7.30* Louis Jadot Aîné & Fils 4 27099 £21.43* 29336 £7.05* 12 5 With a bright green hue, this Riesling flaunts 11 a bouquet of fragrant aromas featuring fresh Bright red in colour, this wine displays lime coupled with subtle hints of musk. The complex aromas of sweet ripe red berry fruit juicy, vibrant palate shows luscious citrus and alongside star anise, cinnamon spice and a crisp mineral acidity, ensuring drinkability This wine tops off my Christmas meal with floral nuances. Although elegant and supple, whilst young. At Bay of Fires, they choose Hand-harvested premium quality grapes one last splurge of indulgence One of the the wine shows remarkable power, intensity to blend grapes harvested from a number from some of the oldest vines on the estate world’s oldest and rarest dessert wines Louis Jadot buy from over 40 growers and length on the palate; this is framed by of premium regions across Tasmania; the It’s so tricky to make budget French Pinot are used to produce this elegant, full- with a staggering 430 g/l residual sugar. around the five villages of Fuissé, Pouilly, ripe, moderate tannins and a sweet blueberry grapes for this wine come from the Derwent Noir taste this alluring and genuine because bodied wine. The initial fermentation is in This wine has a powerful bouquet, oozing Solutré, Vergisson and Chaintré, and take fruit character which is complemented by and Coal River Valleys, regions that are they invariably end up rather weedy and stainless steel before being transferred to heady aromas of concentrated raisin, fig, immense care in controlling the production spice notes. The grapes are sourced from relatively cool and dry, producing wines that hollow. This raspberry and red cherry French oak barrels, which is what gives this coffee and Christmas spices finished with and maturation in oak barrels of this great the Derwent River Valley, Coal River Valley are perfumed, elegant and complex. concoction is heavenly, light, refreshing particular Chenin blanc its edge for me. With a taste of sweet, plump, cooked fruit. Drink wine. 40% of the blend is barrel-fermented and East Coast growing regions. Whole and pretty. The clever touch of oak gives it its stacks of flavour it works really well with with Christmas pudding and mince pies, or and aged for five months which gives it the bunch pressing and separate handling of fruit nobility, too. This is a light red for those of flavoursome white meat and poultry such poured over vanilla ice cream for a lighter yet superb richness and depth of flavour that parcels and ferments allow for a final blend you who can’t handle the heavyweights — as turkey with tasty stuffing. Again its not still indulgent option! just me who rather likes this wine: The 2008 makes it great for hearty Christmas fayre. of great complexity; a wine showing both the and it is spot on when served with turkey or a won Gold and the International Chenin Blanc richness and elegance that is so desirable traditional goose. Trophy at the IWC awards in 2009 and the from cool-climate Tasmania. current 2014 vintage won Silver. *Bottle list price

40 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 41 In each issue we will endeavour to answer some of the wine related queries you might have – anything and everything from grape to glass. If you have a We've got a dedicated team of Wine We've won “Best question you’ve always wanted to ask and never Development Specialists who spend every National Wine have, here’s your opportunity. day working with our customers to develop supplier” in the Email us at [email protected] their wine offering – tasting, training and PMA's Publican show casing new wines and so much more! Choice Awards Do all red wines benefit from I have one more space to fill decanting? Can I decant white on my wine specials list for wine as well? the winter – what would you Originally decanting was used to recommend? Did you know We were voted Our boutique beer separate the wine from any sediment Due to an increase in demand for we have over “Best Drinks range has over in the bottle, in the days before premium Italian and Spanish wines 400 wines which Supplier” in the 80 hand picked winemakers carried out clarification. we have recently added 40 new are exclusive to Chefs' Choice products from Usually associated with finer bottles wines to our portfolio – given the the On-Trade Awards 2015 around the world of red, today, most wines are only current trend for wines from these decanted if they are deemed to countries I would recommend be fully mature and/or if a deposit exploring some of these new has formed as part of the natural options; particularly aromatic whites We offer a free We won over We have over maturation process. from Collio in Italy like Friuliano menu engineering 650 awards for 4000 products Many would argue that decanting and Malvasia which work well with winter salads, cheese and shellfish. service for our our wine range for you to helps to aerate the wine as well, customers? in 2015 choose from releasing the aromas and softening From Spain I wouldn’t hesitate to particularly tannic and youthful recommend a Monastrell, a rich red wines – there is much debate on this packed with fruit – a little oak ageing provides a touch of spice making subject however! As far as dining out We ensure every member Wine on premise UK 2014 is concerned, I think there is a sense it a great partner for hearty stews of theatre around decanting a wine and even quaffed solo it’s a great of our sales team are put awarded us “Distributor of that can enhance your customers’ drinking winter warmer. through WSET training the year” experience and certainly most wines are going to be consumed within an hour or two so it is unlikely to be very detrimental to the wine. We offer next day You can get your We have over Decanting a white can be desirable delivery if you statements and 100 ciders to

for all the same reasons as Did you know... order before 1pm invoices online choose from decanting a red, particularly with regard to rich and oakier styles – it’s not seen very often though, perhaps because keeping a decanted white We offer single We offer free You can place at the correct serving temperature bottle picking delivery your orders online can present its own complications. Ask your Sommelier

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42 | Matthew Clark | Vini Matthew Clark | Vini | 43 Cover image: Portia, Faustino’s newest winery in Ribera Del Duero designed by Norman Foster. Image courtesy of Nigel Young, Foster & Partners.