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Roumier drew inspiration from his father ‘From Christophe Roumier and grandfather. His grandfather Georges’ Visitors to Domaine Georges Roumier covet wines are particularly eye-opening – showing Bourgogne a taste of Musigny Grand , but only a purity and incredible freshness even 60 years minuscule quantity is made. So, it is arguably on. He looked to other great winemakers, too, rouge to the Christophe Roumier’s Chambolle-Musigny seeking inspiration not only from their premier cru, Les Amoureuses, that achieves techniques but also from their philosophies estate’s the highest profile at his demure domaine on crafting great, ageworthy Burgundies. in a back corner of this appellation. Roumier met Henri Jayer in 1980, before he grand crus, Whatever the wine, from Bourgogne was well-known, and met Jacques d’Angerville rouge to the estate’s grand crus such as at around the same time. Jacques Seysses of Roumier is Bonnes Mares and Ruchottes-Chambertin, , with his belief in the use of Roumier is known for a style marked by whole-cluster berries, also influenced him. known for a finesse and purity. The wines are sometimes Nonetheless, Roumier’s initial work at the firm early on, but they deliver the ageability domaine focused on changes in the : style marked that Burgundy lovers crave. monitoring vine vigour, limiting production, One reason for this is that Roumier knows improving grape health, abandoning chemicals by finesse his vines – mostly very old – very well. He and harvesting later. The resulting fruit led to has made wine only at his family’s domaine. adaptations in the winery. The refinement of and purity’ Yet his potential influence on the wine many small details at every stage led to a new world was initially unclear. His father was level of greatness in every bottle. not interested in working with him, and The story seems deceptively simple. Roumier was drawn to science. However, it is painstakingly accumulated Eventually, this led him to the study of inspiration, intuition and introspection vinification. Previously, he knew nothing of – along with the blessing of brilliant family the scientific side of the cellar. Roumier – that has led Roumier to inspire so became fascinated with the process of many of the world’s best winemakers today. fermentation, the composition of wine and Christy Canterbury MW the process of wine’s evolution. Though not an easy relationship, Roumier ‘In a region with so many extraordinary sites, joined his father in 1981. He produced his Christophe Roumier defines, for me, the extent to first ‘real’ vintage which an individual can elevate an already – where he called famous terroir. His quiet thoughtfulness and the shots – in 1984, relentless drive for quality have always impressed though his father me. He is the epitome of dedication.’ Anthony remained on board Hamilton Russell, Hamilton-Russell Vineyards until 1990. ‘Never over-extracted or lean, Christophe’s wines Left: Christophe are pure pleasure; balanced, elegant and true to Roumier and (below) their origins. He is an extraordinary talent who bottles of his Les makes wine with great feeling and real common Amoureuses 1er Cru, sense.’ Véronique Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny ➢ Photograph:Michel Joly

32 | July 2015 • DECANTER