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JAMAICA: March 2016 Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 A Tropical Birding CUSTOM tour JAMAICA 18th – 24th March 2016 There are about 30 endemics in Jamaica (taxonomy dependent), and most are easy to see on a short trip. Jamaican Owl is one of the trickier ones, with this one seen just a 2-minute walk from our bayside villa! Tour Leaders: Sam Woods & Lyndon Johnson Report and all photos by Sam Woods/Tropical Birding Tours 1 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 INTRODUCTION Picture postcard images of Jamaica typically depict bikini-clad tourists relaxing on beautiful beaches. However, many are not aware that Jamaica is a rugged island boasting mountain peaks rising to 6,600ft (2200m), and home to rainforests too. It is here that we spent the most time, in order to chase after the 30 or so endemics (27-30 depending on taxonomy) on the island. Jamaica boasts an extraordinarily high number of endemic birds, considering the size of the country – Cuba is TEN times the size of Jamaica, and yet holds fewer island endemics. Furthermore, not even a week is needed to see them all on Jamaica, whereas a trip to Cuba rarely gets them all, and generally requires a stay of around 2 weeks. While many tourists fly into Montego Bay on the western side of the island, and experience little of the “real” Jamaica, when staying in all-inclusive beach resorts; we traveled purely in the eastern side of the island, spending five days birding, in two main areas, racking up the full compliment of specialties in the process-ALL the endemic bird species were seen. This allowed us to see parts of Jamaica that are sadly missed by other more generalist tourists, not least the pleasantly cool Blue Mountains, where the Lion’s share of the birds were added to our list, and where we also got to sample the revered and famously expensive local coffee, and were able to purchase some directly from the local supplier. The Blue Mountains were combined with the foothills of the John Crow Mountains further north, where the relaxed seaside location of Port Antonio, allowed us to combine personal images of the endemic birds with the classic images of Jamaica’s beaches referred to earlier. 2 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 While seeing the “full house” of Jamaican endemic birds was normal and expected, we also saw some other less predictable birds, like Caribbean Coot, West Indian Whistling-Duck, and a very popular American Flamingo near Kingston, which outranked all of the endemics for choice of top bird of the tour. While the latter was a less predictable highlight, birds like the tiny, strikingly beautiful “Robin Red Brest” (i.e. Jamaican Tody-photo page 2), “Old Man Bird” (Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo), “Old Woman Bird”, (Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo), and “Doctorbird” (Red-billed Streamertail-photo below), were all more usual highlights for this trip. We also saw a healthy contingent of American Wood Warblers, preparing the group for the forthcoming spring back home on the shores of Lake Erie in Ohio. To hear these regular attendees of Magee Marsh (Ohio), (touted as one of THE great warbler spots in North America), state ”this is as good as Magee!” at times, also reflected well on the great warbler viewing we had on this tour, with some 14 species seen well (including an endemic one all of their own-Arrowhead Warbler), along with an equally regular procession of specialty parrots, hummingbirds, flycatchers, doves, thrushes, and even a single owl and woodpecker only found on this idyllic Caribbean island. For these people looking for a quick getaway, to work their cameras on some new birds, and hoping to leave little behind, this tour fit the bill perfectly. They got the birds, got some good photos, and departed feeling like they had seen much of what Jamaica offers the birder in just a week in the country… 3 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 TOUR SUMMARY DAY ONE – of birding - (19th March): HELLSHIRE HILLS & HOPE GARDENS to the BLUE MOUNTAINS After an evening arrival, we were all keen to get out and see what Jamaica had to offer. We left near first light and traveled to Hellshire Hills, an area of dry, scrub-covered hills close to Kingston. To Kingstonians, this is home to some of the best “party” beach locations in the area, but to us, we were all about the birds. In particular, we were looking for a Caribbean specialty that only occurs in a couple of places on the island. While localized on Jamaica, the Bahama Mockingbird is often bold and conspicuous, so its habits, and its habitat, usually make it readily found on a short venture into the area. And so it proved; after 90 minutes on site we had seen at least five of them (photo below), along with our other main avian target, several Stolid Flycatchers, which headed up a list of specialty flycatchers on the cards for the tour. Several Jamaican Mangos at the site kick started a hummingbird list comprised of 4 endemic species. Supporting cast was provided by a handful of waterbirds, like Tricolored and Little Blue Herons, Common Gallinule, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, and an Osprey to compliment the songbirds. A short stop at a local sewage works produced American Crocodiles, Yellow- crowned Bishops, and Glossy Ibis. 4 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 Our final stop of the morning was Hope Botanical Gardens. We passed the Bob Marley Museum on the way, illustrating the island’s position as the birthplace of Dance Hall and Reggae music. Our visit to Hope Gardens was essentially, as this is often the best place to see the endemic Yellow-billed Parrot. As if to illustrate this, as we pulled into the parking lot, the harsh calls of several Yellow-billed Parrots were heard resonating around the car park! It took a little longer to actually see them though (photo below), as finding a green parrot hiding in amongst a sea of green leaves took some doing! After enjoying prolonged views of the parrot, we entered the gardens, noting a number of Zenaida Doves parading around on the lawns. We headed straight to a specific tree, (seeing a handsome White-crowned Pigeon on the way), where a Northern Potoo had recently been nesting. Initial searches indicated the birds may have moved away, as Lyndon announced they were not on their “usual” perches. However, persistence paid off, and Lyndon eventually found a ghostly white juvenile bird perched high in the canopy of this massive tree ( photo next page). The same tree was also buzzing with American Wood Warblers, with Northern Parula, 5 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 American Redstart, Bay-breasted, Black-and-white, Palm, Prairie and Cape May Warblers all featuring there. The same productive tree also hosted a singing Vervain Hummingbird, which is the second smallest bird in the World, at just 2 inches (5cm) long (i.e. a US dollar bill is 3 times the length of this bird!). After lunch in a restaurant in Kingston, we left the sweaty lowlands behind, and climbed up into the Blue Mountains, passing by the army base at Newcastle, where several Antillean Palm Swifts were seen on the wing. We gradually made our way up to Silver Hill Gap, and our base for the next two nights-Starlight Chalet. On the way up we saw the first Jamaican Pewee, which was to become a tour regular. After checking in, and gawking at the procession of Red-billed Streamertails visiting the chalet’s feeders, we took a walk along the road nearby, finding one of the key birds of the area, the so-called “Mountain Witch”, otherwise known as Crested Quail- Dove, perched within the forest. We also saw our first Jamaican Tody, undoubtedly one of the avian highlights of any trip to Jamaica, an endemic species, and an endemic family to the Caribbean. In the evening, we visited a regular spot for the endemic Jamaican Owl, which had recently nested in the area. As darkness drew in, the long begging screeches of the young bird were heard, and after a short period of panic, we managed to get several views of the bird, which still showed some downy feathers on its head. DAY TWO – of birding - (20th March): THE BLUE MOUNTAINS (Silver Hill Gap, Section & Woodside) We opened the day right within the grounds of Starlight Chalet, actually watching the birds right from the balcony shortly after dawn. Several lights in the garden, act as a magnet for birds, and endemic birds at that, near dawn, when birds come in to pick off the insects drawn in by them during the night. It was a lively opening, with Jamaican Tody, Jamaican Elaenia, and Sad and Rufous-tailed Flycatchers all in attendance, while an Ovenbird walked around the flowerbed below, and a Black-throated Blue-Warbler foraged on the garden lawn! After breakfast we took a stroll nearby, and ran into one of the missable endemics, in the form of a Jamaican Blackbird, in an area where they are not usually found, a good early score. 6 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page Tropical Birding Trip Report JAMAICA: March 2016 The last part of the morning was spent at Woodside, where a Greater Antillean Elaenia, several “Glasseyes” or White-eyed Thrushes, Greater Antillean Bullfinch, and a marvelous male Yellow-shouldered Grassquit, were all seen, the latter one of the most underrated of the island endemics (photo right).
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