CHRISTIE BRINKLEY’S RETURN/12 DOLCE & GABBANA IN CHINA/18 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • April 15, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Natural High NEW YORK — Coty Inc. is betting the farm that mass market shoppers crave organic personal care products, with a new natural products collection from The Healing Garden. Called Organics, the venture is meant to provide a new marketing platform for the specialty bath brand. The first installment, Organics Wild Honey, will bow in July and could do up to $10 million in first-year sales. For more, see page 10.

Slimming Saks: Belk Said Near Deal to Buy Proffitt’s, McRae’s By Vicki M. Young situation said a tentative accord was agreement is completed and signed. Y BRYN KENNY NEW YORK — Splitting up its reached earlier this week, though a Belk, based in Charlotte, N.C., is department store group, Saks Inc. is purchase price could not be the largest privately held U.S. said to be close to an agreement to sell immediately determined. Saks is department store company. Proffitt’s and McRae’s to Belk Inc. publicly held and would be required An announcement is anticipated People with knowledge of the to disclose the sale when an See Belk, Page 16 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 WWD.COM House Approves Bankruptcy Reform By Kristi Ellis profits of the credit card industry.” Pelosi called the bill “harsh, punitive and WWDFRIDAY Beauty WASHINGTON — The House approved a major mean-spirited” and noted it would be particular- overhaul of the bankruptcy laws on Thursday, ly harsh on women, who are the largest single legislation long sought by retailers and credit group filing for bankruptcy. She argued there is GENERAL card companies, which requires more people fil- no evidence of widespread abuse of bankruptcy Saks Inc. is splitting up its department store group and is said to have an ing for Chapter 11 to repay at least a portion of protection. 1 agreement in principle with Belk Inc. to sell Proffitt’s and McRae’s. their debt. Lugar, however, said: “After seven years of The House easily passed legislation long sought by retailers and credit card The 302 to 126 vote completes Congressional hard work, this is an enormous victory for 2 companies aimed at overhauling the nation’s bankruptcy laws. action on the measure and marks a victory for American retailers and American consumers.” President Bush, who supported it in the face of Paul Kelly, senior vice president of govern- Estée Lauder is expected to unveil another step today in the venerable opposition from consumer groups. It will take ef- ment affairs for the Retail Industry Leaders of 2 brand’s continuing evolution by naming a slew of executives to new posts. fect six months after being signed by the America, said: “It’s fair to businesses to require BEAUTY: The FiFi’s were heavy on celebrities, but appropriately for a President. people who have the means to at least pay back 6 ceremony that will be televised in May, its biggest star appeared via TV. The measure, known as the Bankruptcy Abuse a portion or get on a schedule to pay back a por- Dolce & Gabbana opened its first store in mainland China at Hangzhou’s Prevention & Consumer Protection Act of 2005, tion of their debt. That’s what this bill will do.” EuroStreet, a new luxury mall on the shores of the city’s West Lake. creates an income-based test that excludes living Lugar, noting that a family of four living 18 expenses, but includes child support in deter- below the median income of roughly $51,000 mining an individual’s ability to repay. It re- would not be affected by the overhaul and could SUZY quires individuals who can afford to repay a sig- still file for Chapter 7, said: “We’ve always said Social Notes from All Over…Everyone wants Olivia Newton-John’s nificant part of their debt to do so under Chapter from the get-go the bankruptcy system is there to 4 HotPants, but she’s not giving them up…A Bronx paradise. 13 of the federal bankruptcy code, which re- protect those who truly need it, those who get quires repayment, instead of Chapter 7, through sick or divorced and need a safety net.” Classified Advertisements...... 19 which they can erase all of their debts. Debtors The legislation benefits retailers by increas- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is whose adjusted monthly income is more than 25 ing the limit on purchases of luxury goods or [email protected], using the individual’s name. percent of their unsecured claims or $6,000, services that can be shielded in bankruptcy. It WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 whichever is greater, would be barred from filing also makes it easier for merchants to approach FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. under Chapter 7. VOLUME 189, NO. 81. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one debtors in bankruptcy with reaffirmation agree- additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional The number of people seeking to wipe out ments that allow them to keep merchandise issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL debts in bankruptcy has more than doubled to bought on credit by renegotiating payment OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill 1.6 million a year in the last 10 years. Katherine schedules. Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Lugar, vice president of legislative and political There are a couple of wrinkles in the bank- Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at affairs at the National Retail Federation, said ruptcy rule changes that could create problems additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration an average household of four pays about $550 a for retailers who file for bankruptcy themselves. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, year in the form of higher costs passed on by ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR The bill sets a 120-day deadline for bankrupt SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR merchants absorbing bad debt. She said bank- tenants in shopping malls to decide whether DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is ruptcy filings have been skyrocketing, notably they will terminate their lease and it can be ex- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production among people making more than $100,000 a year. tended once for 90 days. While tenants now have correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, Opponents said the bill would strip protec- 60 days to decide about store occupancy plans, a please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully tion from the people who need it most. judge may extend the period indefinitely. In ad- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive House Minority Leader Nancy Pelosi (D., dition, a shopping mall provision in the bill these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Calif.) argued during the one-hour floor debate WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED would bar a retailer in bankruptcy from sublet- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND that the bill was “rewarding irresponsible corpo- ting a space to a tenant that doesn’t match the TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART rate behavior and fattening the already large mix of tenants in the center. WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Lauder to Tap New Team Quote of the Week “Quality of product is number one. By Julie Naughton Daniel new position June 1. Annese Alicia Valencia, who is vice If I were designing ready-to-wear NEW YORK — Two days after president of strategic planning, inking a deal with Tom Ford, will become vice president of right now, that’s what it would be Estée Lauder’s John Demsey sales and marketing, Latin Am- and Thia Breen are expected to erica and Hispanic markets, for about — real, true value. And I unveil another step today in the Estée Lauder, effective June 1. venerable brand’s continuing The new position integrates the don’t mean value for the price. I evolution by naming a slew of Latin-American and U.S. His- executives to new posts. panic markets, reflecting their in- mean value in terms of quality.’’ “We have a wealth of talent creasing market share of the — Tom Ford and ability in this organization, Lauder brand, said Breen, to and we are recognizing that and whom Valencia will report. rewarding it,” said Demsey, who “Alicia has been doing a lot of re- is global president of the Estée search in our Hispanic markets, Lauder brand and holds the seeing how we can communicate In Brief same role for MAC Cosmetics, to in the best way with this con- WWD on Thursday. “These exec- sumer,” said Breen. “The His- ● TAX TIME: As Americans rush to file taxes by today’s deadline, utives have all made long-stand- panic market is extremely impor- calls for a national sales tax were made again at a news confer- ing contributions to this brand.” tant to the brand and Alicia’s ap- ence on Capitol Hill Thursday. The FairTax legislation, spon- Daniel Annese, currently vice pointment reflects that.” Demsey sored by Rep. John Linder (R., Ga.) and Sen. Saxby Chambliss president of marketing for Estée agreed, calling the Hispanic mar- (R., Ga.), failed to get committee consideration last year and was Lauder North America, has been ket “a real area of opportunity” reintroduced in the House in January. It would replace federal named senior vice president and and “critical to Estée Lauder.” personal and corporate income, payroll and other taxes with a general manager of Estée Lauder vision around the world. He has Beth Zurn, who has most re- 23 percent personal consumption tax on retail sales of goods and International, effective June 1. an amazing way of ascertaining cently been executive director of services. Sandy Kennedy, president of the Retail Industry Annese, who will report to Dem- the marketplace and knows how talent development for corporate Leaders Association, which has 600 members, including Wal- sey, replaces Mark Loomis, who to mobilize resources and move management strategies and who Mart and Gap, said in a statement: “The new tax would signifi- has been named president of them to the next level.” is also a 12-year veteran of Clin- cantly depress retail sales and damage the economy by sharply Estée Lauder Japan. Replacing Annese as vice pres- ique’s educational department, curtailing consumer spending.” FairTax has 54 co-sponsors, but “Daniel has had a unique set ident of marketing for Lauder in has been named vice president of is not seen to be on a fast track to becoming law. of experiences in working on the North America is Marjorie Lau, education, North America, for the Estée Lauder brand,” said Dem- currently vice president of global Lauder brand, also a new role. ● NEW NIKE DIRECTOR: Nike Inc. named former Microsoft Corp. sey, citing Annese’s experience skin care marketing for the Her appointment is effective May chief financial officer John G. Connors to its board on Thursday, in skin care and fragrance mar- Lauder brand. Previous to assum- 1. Previously, a now-departed vice bringing the number of directors to 11. Connors, 46, spent 16 years keting, training and develop- ing that role, Lau was vice presi- president, Susan Flint, had over- at Microsoft before retiring in January. He subsequently joined ment and other areas. “His skill dent of skin care marketing at seen the brand’s educational pro- Ignition Partners LLC, a venture capital firm established by for- set and orientation in terms of Estée Lauder North America. Lau grams on a global basis; the two mer Microsoft and McCaw Cellular executives that invests in the development of the brand will report to Breen, Lauder’s roles have now been separated. A early stage software and technology companies. It is anticipated makes him a great partner in president of North American new global vice president of edu- Connors will serve on Nike’s audit committee, the company said. carrying out the Estée Lauder business, and will take over her cation has not yet been named. © Clinique Laboratories, Inc. Bey ond moisture, beyond SPF, thispatent-pendingformula helps skinrebuild itsnatural defenses. Meet thefuture. New Superdefense A llergy Tested.llergy 100% Fragrance Free. ™ Tr peAto osuie P 25. SPF iple Action Moisturizer clinique.com 4 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 WWD.COM Here Come the Brides ● Diva Demi ● Red Hot Chile

Heidi Klum

Later, over dinner at Swifty’s, which seemed to be the center of the universe chockablock with everyone who is Demi Moore anyone in New York, Lee Thaw, of the social swim, was giving a dinner in honor ● of Venetian Heritage’s Lawrence Lovett for such as Pat Buckley; Nan Kempner; Olivia Newton-John is being offered big Doda Voridis, the Greek heiress who has money for the satin HotPants she wore in just arrived in New York; Patricia Suzy the movie “Grease,” but after 27 years, Patterson; Bettina and Ezra Zilkha; Judy By Aileen Mehle the actress is still not willing to give them and Sam Peabody; Pierre Durand, and up — even though they’re folded up in others too fashionable to mention. ● Social notes from all over: Charles and the bottom of her wardrobe. “There’s no Olivia Newton-John Camilla made their first official public way I’d ever sell them. I mean, I might Also at Swifty’s was Anne Hearst, who appearance together in Scotland since not be able to fit into them anymore but I was holding court about her rafting eye® their wedding day and were a boffo smash like to look at them and remember when I could. Every adventures in Chile from which she had just returned and hit. Camilla wore a long red jacket with a girl has a pair of skinny pants at home she can’t get into where she braved the mighty Futaleufu River and its tartan collar and a three-strand pearl choker that is anymore, right?” Sad, but true. gigantic rapids. The trip was organized by Robert F. almost a part of her. Charles wore a kilt as they cut the ● Kennedy Jr. and his wife, Mary, to call attention to the river’s ribbon to open a primary school near Birkhall, where As you read this, Heidi Klum is planning a summer plight. It is scheduled to be dammed up in 2013. Others on they are honeymooning at the palace of his late wedding to the singer Seal and is asking several of her the weeklong trip included Dan Aykroyd and his wife, Donna grandmother, Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. The favorite designers to submit sketches of wedding dresses Dixon; Kevin Costner’s 21-year old daughter, Annie; Julia townspeople cheered like anything and a group of that will accommodate her expanding body as the months Louis-Dreyfus, and Patty Smyth, who sang around the children presented Camilla with a bouquet of white go by. Presently, she is four months pregnant with Seal’s campfire every night to entertain the group, which included flowers, very much like the one she carried at her child and wants to marry before the baby arrives in her husband, John McEnroe, and ever so many children who wedding. C&C couldn’t have been happier and wore September. I’m sure you are all aware that Heidi already listened to ghost stories. Tell me again what fun it was. smiles as wide as Loch Ness itself. has a baby daughter, Leni, with Italian mogul Flavio Briatore, ● They are planning a visit to the U.S. as official and she thinks one child out of wedlock is enough. The Bronx Museum of Arts will transform itself into guests of President Bush and Laura Bush in the fall. As ● a tropical paradise on May 19 for its spring gala. Among for the Prince’s brood, Prince Harry has flown off to Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston wouldn’t say a word those expected are Anna Bulgari, Clarissa Bronfman, South Africa to spend some time with his girlfriend, about their relationship, but now that it’s over, they can’t Pilar Crespi Roberts and designers Narciso Rodriguez, Chelsy Davy, at a villa he rented in a vineyard near stop talking about it. Jennifer says being married to the Zang Toi, Joe Cheng and Maggie Norris. Mayor Cape Town. What fun! On May 1, it’s back to England sexiest man alive made her insecure and “when your Bloomberg is expected, too, because his company is the to join the army, where Harry begins his military parents split up like mine did, it’s impossible to delude sponsor of the evening. training at Sandhurst. His bro, Prince William, is yourself about fairy-tale romance and happy endings.” She ● continuing his romance with Kate Middleton. Recently feels the marriage brought up all the kinds of things she Tonight, at the Spike Gallery in Chelsea, Ronald Winston, the young lovers have spent several romantic had previously pushed to the back burner. “Brad is the Harry Winston’s son and the chairman of the board of the weekends alone at the lovely, secluded cottage given to kindest person I know and the sweetest goofball on the company his grandfather founded in 1888, is giving a party him and Harry by the Queen near her own palace at planet.” Some cute goofball she just dropped with a thud. for the pop artist Gerald Laing, a contemporary of Andy Balmoral. Actually, they’re clever to keep their ● Warhol, Larry Rivers and James Rosenquist. Ronald will be whereabouts as quiet as possible because after last Anne Hearst, chic-ed up in a black evening suit, there with his wife, Heidi, who recently presented him with Saturday’s wedding, Prince William becomes the most snapped up the portrait of her daughter, beautiful Amanda his first child, a son named Blaise. It is rumored baby Blaise eligible bachelor in the world as well as the most Hearst, at the party at ’s Madison Avenue can already tell a real diamond from cubic zirconia, but you sought after. store given to celebrate photographer Bryan Adams’ new know how people exaggerate. ● book, “American Women.” All the proceeds from the sale ● Demi Moore is acting a bit insecure and picky as she of the photographs went to the Society of Memorial Stephen Sondheim will receive a Lifetime models for photographer Mario Testino, who is shooting Sloan-Kettering Center. Some of the city’s Achievement Award at the Dramatist Guild of the new Versace campaign. Demi asked Mario to please loveliest women appear in the book, many of whom were America’s show and dinner on Monday at the Hudson avoid the angles that she thinks are not photogenic at the book party. In the hip-to-hip crowd were such as Theater. The co-chairmen, Kate Betts, Debra Black and enough. Wise and diplomatic Mario assured her that she Stephanie Seymour, Paula Zahn, Lauren Bush, Renee Claude Wasserstein, will watch scenes from “Who’s is beautiful from every possible angle — and soon Rockefeller, Aerin Lauder-Zinterhofer, Jane Pauley, Muffie Afraid of Virginia Woolf?”and the “25th Annual Putnam we shall see. Potter-Aston and a very pregnant Gwyneth Paltrow. County Spelling Bee.” Love Sondheim. Love his titles. © 2005 Cosmetics, Inc.

THE BEAUTY OF BEING YOU

A CAPTIVATING NEW FRAGRANCE BY LIZ CLAIBORNE 6 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM FiFi’s Star-Studded Night Out In the Winner’s Circle CONSUMER’S CHOICE AWARDS NEW YORK — The 33rd annual Fragrance Foundation Awards who has signed a veritable galaxy of stars in the last few years Cosmopolitan Magazine may have been heavy on celebrities, but appropriately enough — gave a good-hearted “no comment!” to deal-related questions Women’s: DKNY Be Delicious by Donna for an awards ceremony that will be partially televised in May, as he entered the ballroom before the awards ceremony began. Karan Cosmetics and Ralph Cool by Fragrances its biggest star appeared via TV. Meanwhile, actress Katie Holmes — who presented de- Men’s: Romance Silver by Ralph Lauren A taped thank you from Spanish heartthrob Antonio signer Carolina Herrera with Hall of Fame honors — decided Fragrances Banderas followed the star’s FiFi win for Best Men’s Fragrance, to stick to what she does best. “I enjoy other people’s fra- Popular Appeal for Spirit Antonio Banderas. The scent, pro- grances,” the actress said, “and sticking to what I do.” Cosmogirl duced by Puig Fragrances & Personal Care, had won kudos ear- There were also other moments of refreshing modesty. Women’s: Curious Britney Spears by lier for Best Packaging of the Year, Men’s Popular Appeal. Loftus said during his first pass on the stage that he was “going The irreverent Alan Cumming — a celebrity presenter and to thank my retail partners now, because I might not get anoth- Men’s: Adidas Moves Fresh for Him by creator of the recently released scent Cumming — had aspira- er chance.” Puig Beauty chief Manuel Puig modestly gave cred- Coty Beauty US tions of joining Banderas in the winners’ circle next year, jok- it to a host of collaborators — including the scent’s namesake, ing from stage that he hoped his fragrance would win next Miuccia Prada — as he picked up his company’s third FiFi of TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH OF year’s prize for “Best Package.” Uh, that’s Best Packaging of the evening, for best women’s fragrance, Luxe for Prada. And THE YEAR the Year, Alan. model Theodora Richards, a co-presenter with L’Oréal USA’s International Flavors & Fragrances’ Sensory Cumming was one of a host of notables — including singer Jack Wiswall, said of her co-presenter gig: “Someone was miss- Perception Ashanti; actresses Marisa Tomei, Katie Holmes, Sophie Dahl and ing, and I just filled in.” Of Wiswall, she said sweetly: “He was CERTIFIED FRAGRANCE SALES SPECIALIST Monica Potter; models Theodora Richards and Veronica Webb, up there holding my hand, making me feel more confident.” Joel Robbins of Sephora in Beechwood, and designers Carolina Herrera and Catherine Malandrino — to Meanwhile, in Bologna, Italy — where the Accademia del Ohio, and Diane Scagnelli of Sephora in walk the red carpet at the Hammerstein Ballroom last week, Profumo’s new president, Roberto Martone, presented the Manhasset, N.Y. where the big winners included Cosmopolitan Cosmetics with Italian FiFi’s — the evening belonged to Christian Dior’s Pure four FiFi’s and Coty and Puig with three apiece. and ’s L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme. HALL OF FAME AWARD At least one star sans a scent deal seemed anxious to join Pure Poison won honors for Best Advertising Campaign, designer Carolina Herrera and Arie Donald Trump, Sarah Jessica Parker and Sean “P. Diddy” Female, and Best Female Fragrance, while L’Instant de L. Kopelman, vice chairman of Combs in the world of celeb fragrances. Ashanti, who copresent- Guerlain Pour Homme picked up kudos for Best Advertising ed with Cosmopolitan Cosmetics’ Don Loftus, said backstage Campaign, Male, and Best Packaging, Male. Oro by Roberto RETAIL INNOVATION OF THE YEAR that she was “kinda, sorta” working on a scent. “The opportuni- Cavalli rounded out the winners’ list with an award for Best Bath & Body Works ty has presented itself,” the Versace-clad Ashanti said coyly, Packaging, Female. “and we just might take advantage of it.” With who? “Uh, I can’t — Julie Naughton and Matthew W. Evans, BEST PACKAGING OF THE YEAR PRESTIGE tell you yet.” The obvious suspect — Coty chief Bernd Beetz, with contributions from Stephanie Epiro, Milan Women’s: Shanghai by Horizon Beauty/Gary Farn Ltd. Men’s: L’Eau Bleue D’Issey Pour Homme by Beauté Prestige International

POPULAR APPEAL Women’s: The Healing Garden in Bloom by Coty Beauty US Men’s: Spirit Antonio Banderas by Puig Fragrances & Personal Care Inc.

ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR Print: Brit for Men by Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/Burberry Fragrance William Lauder TV: True Star by Toiletries Manuel Puig and Don Loftus and Andrea Jetta Joop and Carolina Herrera Jill Scalamandre Martha Brady and Ashanti Robinson Bernd Beetz EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE Eric Meade Michael Gould and Arie Kopelman COVERAGE Thoreux Rudasill Scent Bite: Elegant Bride and Elle magazine Scent Feature: Allure

BATH AND BODY LINE OF THE YEAR Chanel No.5 Seduction Collection

INTERIOR SCENT COLLECTION OF THE YEAR Specialty: Gap Scents Color Block Candles Prestige: Scented Candle by Cartier Philippe Benacin Scott Beattie FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME Sophie Fabrice Marisa Arpège by Lanvin Paris Dahl Weber Tomei, the FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR evening’s POPULAR APPEAL host, Women’s: The Healing Garden in Bloom with by Coty Beauty US Rochelle Men’s: Spirit Antonio Banderas by Puig Fragrances & Personal Care Inc. Bloom. PRIVATE LABEL/DIRECT SELL Women’s: Today Tomorrow Always Eau de Parfum by Avon Products Inc. Patrick Men’s: Liquid Karl by for Bousquet- Theodora H&M by Cosmetics Chavanne Richards Marc Rosen International Katie NOUVEAU NICHE Holmes Women’s: Burberry Brit Red by Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/Burberry Fragrance Men’s: Paul Smith for Men by Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/Inter Parfums

LUXE Women’s: Prada Fragrance by Puig Prestige Beauty Fergus Men’s: Burberry Brit for Men by Nicolas and Balfour Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/ Alexandra and Laura Burberry Fragrance Marcella Cacci Alison Farn Alan Cumming Mirzayantz Klauberg PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE © 2005 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Nature unveiled. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Coty Inc. Signs Soccer Star Zidane PARIS — Coty Inc. has just scored a new high-profile lated, repackaged and extended Active Skincare for spokesman. Men collection, introduced last year. Along with other The beauty company inked a long-term licensing new items, the line includes two products targeting men agreement with soccer star Zinedine Zidane to be the with sensitive skin: Face Wash gel and Face Cream. first global spokesman for Adidas beauty. He will be There are also new items for Adidas’ Personal Care the face for the Adidas Active Skincare for Men line line, including a hair and body shower gel and a mois- and is to represent Adidas’ antiperspirants for men. The Adidas turizing shower gel. The three spray deodorants in the The announcement confirms a report appearing in collection include nonwhitening formulas. Active these pages on March 1. Adidas also is rolling out a soccer-related beauty col- Zidane — among soccer’s leading players today — Skincare for lection, called Special Edition 2005 Blue Challenge for was chosen as the embodiment of the brand, Coty Men ad. men. It includes scent and skin care. Once the soccer executives said. season is over, the fragrance’s name will be changed to “He is a natural choice to be the face of Adidas simply Blue Challenge and the packaging will be Active Skincare,” said Bernd Beetz, chief executive changed, as well. It will then become part of Adidas’ officer of Coty, in a statement. “He has flair and style on portfolio. A special-edition scent to commemorate the and off the pitch, alongside a rare and exciting sporting upcoming World Cup will be introduced for spring 2006. talent; qualities that resonate with men throughout the In Europe, Adidas is the number-one men’s mass world today.” market fragrance brand with 11 percent market share “Zinedine Zidane is a long-term icon for young peo- sales-wise. Its fragrance business grows, on average, 10 ple all across the world,” continued Steve Mormoris, percent a year. senior vice president, international marketing, at Coty Starting this month, Adidas’ Personal Care for Beauty Europe, adding that Zidane has “global” and Women collection is hitting shelves around the world. “multicultural” appeal. It includes items conceived for various skin types, The first print advertisement featuring Zidane will including six shower gels, plus three 24-hour and one break in April, and the athlete’s images also will 24-hour-plus antiperspirant deodorants. Like with the appear on in-store displays. Zidane himself will be at men’s version, the sprays in this line include anti- some press events, too. whitening properties. The Zidane signing comes amid a major makeover at Mormoris. Recent introductions for Adidas included four Adidas, Coty’s top-netting brand, which is 20 years old. Part of the drive is meant for Adidas to build muscle women’s fragrances — Fresh Vibes, Floral Dream, While company executives would not discuss in the antiperspirant segment, where the main compe- Fruity Rhythm and Sensual Instinct. They were Adidas’ sales, industry sources estimate the beauty tition comes from Nivea and Dove for women and Re- launched last August around the world. brand generates more than $500 million in retail busi- xona and Sanex for men. “Our brand traverses many categories,” said ness a year. It reportedly clocks double-digit growth. Starting this month, Adidas is introducing a spate of Mormoris. “It’s very much a broad brand.” “It’s the biggest year for launches for Adidas,” said products tested on athletes. These include the reformu- — Jennifer Weil

Products from True Cosmetics Hails Power of Antioxidants True Cosmetics. By Rose Apodaca the gate last year to market the first line that incorporates mind, name, yet its availability is limit- body and wellness with cosme- LOS ANGELES — Admittedly, ed to prescription through der- ceuticals. I saw results very “Idebenone,” laughs Michelle matologists. And Q10 already is quickly — within two weeks, as a Balmer, the cofounder of True available in other cosmeceuti- matter of fact. Other lines usual- Cosmetics, “sounds like a lounge cals: Dr. Nicholas Perricone was ly take six to eight weeks.” singer. And it really is the star of among the first to praise its This month, True launched the line.” potential in 2002. a lactic acid treatment in client Along with the widening con- Yet its beauty applications spas. “It’s the acid of choice verts crooning the benefits of are only about to be tapped. because it’s multifunctioning this super-antioxidant, Balmer True Cosmetics bowed at acid, but with Idebenone,” and the three fellow industry ISpa late last fall, with the exclu- pointed out Balmer, “it reduces vets who founded True are seri- sive domestic rights to Ideb- inflammation without the red- ous about Idebenone’s use in enone for use in products sold ness and side effects some skin the skin care and mineral make- through spas and salon-spas. It otherwise undergoes.” up sold through the recently has since been claiming shelf On SkinStore.com, the spa- founded San Francisco-based space at Spa Mystique in Los affiliated site touts Tree’s Youth company. Angeles, the JW Marriott Starr Revealing Complex with 0.5 There is also a signature Moritz and later San Francisco, With the beauty world hail- Pass Resort & Spa in Tucson, the percent Idebenone as providing True aroma, created to reduce and she spent the last 13 years ing the potent synthetic form of Ritz Carlton New Orleans and the same results at a better stress and “lift the spirit” based establishing the Pevonia line the antioxidant coenzyme Q10 the Spa at Torrey Pines in La price than Prevage’s 1 percent, on ylang-ylang. through the western U.S. as the next wonder ingredient, Jolla, Calif. citing that clinical tests “show The cosmetic collection, en- Their longtime friend, Deird- it was only a matter of moments For Janis Chakler at Restore no significant difference in cased in sparkling hunter green re Burke, True’s president, also before products brandishing Spa in New York, the new aes- results.” A 1-oz. pump of True’s packaging, boasts both the envi- grew up in the professional skin Idebenone would emerge. thetician door by Albert Garcia is $90, with Prevage’s marked ronmental protection of Ideb- care arena, helping launch Prevage, created by Botox — brother to celebrity nutrition- down $16 on the same site to $99 enone and, those with minerals, Cellex-C and Jane Iredale Min- makers Allergan, was first out ist Dr. Oz Garcia — True “is the for the same size. a natural SPF of 17. eral Cosmetics, and helming The True line offers 0.5 per- Proceeds of the Altruistic sales at MD Formulations and cent Idebenone content in the Lip Shine, $18, are donated to BareEscentuals. She is also skin brightener to the sheer lip the Skin Care Foundation. CIDESCO licensed domestically gloss. There are also 19 tools and and internationally. But it’s not the only hallmark brushes custom-designed by Vice president of sales and of the line, which rolled out with co-founder Alphonse Wiebelt, marketing Celeste Winters, 30 stockkeeping units in the whose résumé includes work- whose career began as a licens- seven collections of skin care ing with Kevyn Aucoin, product ed cosmetologist at the makeup and 175 in color cosmetics. Many development at Trish McEvoy counter and moved up to formulations include antiaging and introducing Paula Dorf in Macy’s cosmetic buyer oversee- white tea and anti-inflammatory the west. ing Lancôme, Clinique and oth- green tea, as well as high-grade Formally created last sum- ers, rounds out the team. Her essential oil blends and, instead mer, True Cosmetics is the cul- executive stints in the spa in- of water, pure hydrosols. mination of “really just a bunch dustry include BABOR Cosmet- “Water might be the first in- of friends saying ‘One day…,’” ics and Bioceutix/MD Beauty. gredient in many products,” recalled Wiebelt, who shares The privately held company noted Balmer, “but it’s harsh. the vice president of develop- will not directly comment on Pure hydrosol — from lavender, ment and education title with first-year sales, but industry rose, chamomile — provides a Balmer. The former model left sources project True could do $2 lot more efficacy and benefits the casting calls to learn about million in its inaugural year from the product.” aromatherapy and spas in St. through its designated channels.

10 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Coty’s Earth-Friendly Endeavor: Organics

NEW YORK — Coty Beauty’s The Healing Garden will an old apothecary feel. What’s more, a logo calling out the piggyback off its aromatherapy heritage to launch its next percentage of organic materials in the product formula is pillar, Organics — one that the company anticipates will “rubber-stamped” on the label. For instance, the Wild redefine the brand’s role in the specialty bath category. Honey Body Mist, according to the label, contains 72 per- Organics will be the main thrust of The Healing cent organic ingredients. All products are designed to Garden’s advertising and promotional efforts next meet the California Organic Products Act 2003 guidelines year, noted Roslyn Griner, vice president of bath and for organic cosmetics, which requires products to contain body for Coty Beauty. The company will begin this ef- a minimum of 70 percent organic ingredients. fort with the introduction of The Healing Garden Org- The five-item line also includes two products previ- anics Wild Honey later this year. ously not found in The Healing Garden assortment: a Coty anticipates the Organics collection will account sugar scrub, formulated with organic honey and or- for 20 percent of The Healing Garden brand sales. And ganic sunflower oil for $8.95, and bar soap made of with more scent stories and a facial care collection in vegetable-derived ingredients for $5.95. A body wash the pipeline, the new platform could ultimately account and a body lotion, for $7.95 each, round out the Wild for 40 percent of brand sales, said Griner. Coty would Honey line. Coty upped the brand’s traditional price not break out sales, but industry sources estimate the points by $1 to cover the costs of the premium ingredi- line could reap first-year sales of $10 million. ents, said Griner. She added the company’s consumer The shift in focus is intended to revive sales growth. research showed that consumers are willing to pay an The Healing Garden’s total brand sales slid 7 percent extra dollar for organic products. to $41.2 million for the 52-week period ended March 20 The Healing Garden Organics will follow Wild in the mass market (excluding Wal-Mart), according to Honey with the October introduction of Fig & Lavender, Information Resources Inc. a collection that includes specialty items such as a The Healing Garden Organics Wild Honey is a col- room spray. The company also has an Organics facial lection of body care products formulated with certified care line planned for spring 2006. Industry sources esti- organic ingredients. “Honey is one of the oldest skin mate Coty will back the new line with a $4 million mar- care treatments known to man,” noted Paul Seplowitz, keting budget. vice president of product development for Coty Beauty. Print ads, which break in September beauty books, He went on to say that Cleopatra’s beauty regimen in- focus on the internal and external benefits of organic cluded honey facials and baths of honey and milk. products, said Kelley Woodland, Coty Beauty’s group The entry of Organics comes as The Healing Garden marketing director of bath and body. The ad states, continues to move beyond the confines of its original “Pretty, Healthy: Why not be both?” and goes on to pro- The print ad for The Healing Garden Organics Wild Honey line. aromatherapy positioning. Earlier this year, the brand claim, “It’s as good for your skin as it is for the planet.” — eyeing the burgeoning skin care sector — dropped cialty bath category at mass in the Nineties and plans It also will call attention to the line’s ties to The Nature its Spa Theraphy logo and renamed its skin treatment to do the same with organic personal care products. Conservancy, a nonprofit organization dedicated to pre- line Body Definition. It also nixed the tag line “Aroma The timing is right for mass retailers to clear room serving the Earth’s animal and plant diversity, to which Therapies for Your Mind, Body and Soul,” for its spe- on their shelves for organic personal care products, Coty will donate a portion of the proceeds from the cialty bath line and replaced it with the more practi- said Griner, citing the growth trajectory of Whole Organics Wild Honey line. On the retail front, the com- cal-sounding phrase, “Natural, Science, Wellness.” Foods Market. Whole Foods’ sales grew more than 22 pany will do in-store demonstrations. Wal-Mart will re- “We needed to redefine our role in the specialty percent last year, signaling consumers need to feel portedly merchandise the line on a four-sided display. bath category,” said Griner, adding that the Organics good about their purchases. In addition to giving consumers a specialty bath line ushers The Healing Garden into the wellness The Healing Garden Organics Wild Honey line, line they can feel good about purchasing, The Healing arena. She acknowledged trailblazers in the space, which will bow in July, seeks to tap into that same Garden Organics adherence to the California Organic namely Kiss My Face and Jason Natural Products, but “good for me, good for the environment” positioning. Products Act makes the line nearly impossible for im- reminded they have yet to proliferate the mass mar- The line’s packaging — brown bottles wrapped with porters to knock off. ket. Coty, on the other hand, helped carve out the spe- yellowed, faux-aged paper labels — was designed to have — Molly Prior

Racer Ron Brut Re-created by Helen of Troy Capps and his NEW YORK — Brut, a name that has its Shave Gel for Normal Skin includes ucts. Last year, Gillette launched the son. endured within the fragrance industry shea butter. Each is priced at $3.29 for men’s skin care line Complete. That’s for decades, is being reinvented. 7 oz. An 11-oz. Balancing Shave Cream, not to mention the existing Neutrogena First launched in department stores priced at $1.99, also uses vitamin E. Men collection, product launches in the 41 years ago as Brut by Faberge — then Moisturizing After Shave Balm, which past year by brands such as Old Spice as Brut 33 at mass in the late Sixties — features shea butter, is priced at $5.99. and current and future introductions by what’s now simply called Brut has been These four items, all aloe-based, join the likes of Axe and King of Shaves. retooled and infused with a new look, Brut’s existing products: a cologne, an With $10.5 million in sales last year, new products and some serious mar- aftershave splash, a deodorant and an excluding Wal-Mart, Brut was the num- keting muscle. antiperspirant. ber-three brand behind Axe ($60 million) Helen of Troy, the $475 million appli- All told, the venture could drive a 30 and Old Spice ($17.8 million) in the men’s ance and personal care firm, acquired percent rise in sales this year for Brut, shaving lotion, cologne and talc category, the rights for Brut in the which does an estimated according to Information Resources Inc. U.S., Canada, Mexico and $75 million in retail sales As part of a marketing campaign begin- Puerto Rico for $55 million volume in the Americas, ac- ning this month and running through from Unilever in fall 2003. cording to industry sources, yearend, Brut will sponsor the Dodge The brand is now part of 67 percent of which is gen- Stratus funny car driven by Capps. The Idelle Labs, which is Helen erated in the U.S. NHRA drag racing season began in appear in magazines such as People, of Troy’s three-year-old skin Marc Broccoli, director of February and the green Brut car is among Sports Illustrated, Car & Driver, Out- and hair care division. men’s category marketing at the newest on the circuit. While Brut is door Life, GQ and Cargo. Brut’s past marketing ef- Idelle, called the Brut initia- backing Capps himself, the effort also in- Industry sources speculate that the forts have aligned the likes tive a “skin care approach.” cludes a wider sponsorship of the NHRA campaign is worth about $20 million. of Mickey Mantle, Moham- He added, “We are capitaliz- and visibility at races and related events. As Broccoli sees it, Brut is embark- med Ali, Joe Namath and Troy Aikman ing on the male skin care trends going on Local radio spots for Brut will be run ing on the next step of “an evolution, with the brand. Today, Helen of Troy’s today. Men are more attuned to not only in markets visited by the racing series. not a revolution.” There’s the “poten- plan to resurrect Brut includes an al- protecting [their skin] but also preserv- The effort also will include a “very tial” for a new Brut scent next year, he liance with the National Hot Rod ing their appearance.” extensive print campaign,” said Broc- noted. While International Flavors & Association and a sponsorship of drag Plus, “you’re seeing a proliferation coli, featuring an ad that will picture Fragrances is the main supplier of fra- racer Ron Capps. of stockkeeping units coming out into Capps with his son and carry the tag grances for the brand, details of any fu- A relaunch of Brut is expected to be the men’s category.” line, “New Generation. Same Values.” ture scents have yet to be determined. completed at mass by the end of this Indeed, the Brut relaunch stands to — in a way a metaphor for the rebirth of “We have a stewardship of the exist- month. In addition to making subtle de- further heighten competition within the the brand, Broccoli contended. Some ing brand,” said Broccoli, to which he sign changes to Brut’s medallion logo, men’s category at mass. L’Oréal Paris single-page ads will feature the Shave wants to remain true. “Brut has a place Idelle has introduced the brand’s first just unveiled a men’s grooming and Gel for Normal Skin and the Moistur- in men’s grooming and has always had a shaving products. Brut’s new Shave Gel anti-aging line, while Nivea for Men re- izing After Shave Balm along with place there.” for Sensitive Skin boasts vitamin E and cently introduced new treatment prod- Capps’ race car and crew. Visuals will — Matthew W. Evans

12 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Banderas Has Spirit for Women’s Scent NEW YORK — Women adore Antonio Banderas. Now America will find out if they McConaughey in advertising for Stetson, but the brand doesn’t bear his name. want to wear a scent bearing his name. Will women want a scent fronted by a man who is known for acting rather than Fresh from victory for Spirit Antonio Banderas for Men at last week’s Fragrance designing? PUIG has the research to support that they do. “Women want him. Men Foundation’s FiFi Awards, PUIG Fragrances and Personal Care North America is want to be like him,” said Gregory Black, senior marketing manager at PUIG. rolling out a female companion. “I’ve fully invested myself in this partnership with Extensive research finds that Banderas appeals to both men and women of all ages. PUIG and I’m thrilled to be introduc- An added extra is his fame among ing my second fragrance in the U.S.,” Spirit Hispanic consumers whom more and Antonio Banderas said in a statement. Antonio more retailers are attempting to lure. Spirit Antonio Banderas for Men Banderas “My roots in Spain are very important took honors for Men’s Fragrance of the for Women; to me and in everything I do I want to Year in popular appeal as well as best an ad for be an ambassador for Latin culture,” packaging in the mass category. The the new said Banderas in a release. scent ranked in the top 10 of mass fragrance. Advertising for the women’s scent market brands last Christmas against picks up where the man’s spot left off. stalwarts such as Drakkar Noir and Banderas is dancing in a club and Cool Water, according to data from catches the eye of an attractive Information Resources Inc. woman. “We’re playing off of the men’s ad and adding the women’s scent to make the campaign consis- tent,” said Black. In addition to na- Critical Mass tional television, the campaign in- By Faye Brookman cludes national print, cable and in- store promotions that will break in October. Displays will feature Spirit Antonio Banderas for Banderas and his female complement. Women will reach mass retailers this There will also be account-specific ve- fall and buyers hope it will bring the hicles. The company is receiving pub- same celebrity wattage to women’s licity from events such as sponsorship mass scents that the logo delivered in of Aspen’s annual Winterskol Festival men’s. The category could use the star and fireworks in January. power. According to IRI data for the More than $12 million is ear- 52 weeks ended Jan. 26, 2005, women’s marked for marketing and sampling mass market sales (excluding Wal- Pedro Escudero, Vince Colonna and for Antonio Banderas fragrances. Mart) declined 3.4 percent to $483 mil- Gregory Black of PUIG Fragrances. Spirit Antonio Banderas for Women’s lion. Men’s during that same period packaging is shapelier than the men’s increased 4.2 percent to $389 million. and in pink rather than red. The scent Spirit Antonio Banderas for Men is considered a modern Oriental with was the initial foray by PUIG into the citrus and plum top notes, a fresh flo- U.S. market, but the company plans to ral heart and a woody Oriental polish. grow into a “major player with new in- “In research, women all loved the novations in 2006,” according to Vince bottle and thought Antonio would Colonna, executive vice president and know what a woman should smell general manager of PUIG Fragrances like,” said Black. The focus groups of and Personal Care North America women said the package would catch Inc., a subsidiary of PUIG Beauty and their eye immediately and draw them Fashion Group. toward the fragrance. “The men’s scent set the tone, gave Pricing for the women’s scent is in us credibility and a strong founda- line with the men’s. A 1-oz. eau de toi- tion,” said Colonna. Industry sources lette spray is $21.50, a 5-oz. body lotion say the women’s version could eclipse is $9 and the 1.7-oz. EDT spray is $30. men’s sales and hit $30 million. ERICH ANTHONY JOHNSON PHOTO BY PUIG is working with retailers to Combined, the two scents will produce sales of at least $50 million, sources said. In enhance the ambience of mass market fragrances. Integral to that effort has been Europe and Latin America, the PUIG Antonio Banderas Seductive fragrances fran- an acrylic fixture created by The Royal Promotion Group. chise encompasses four fragrances as well as aftershaves, shower gels and balms, Although Spirit for men was an existing scent in Europe from PUIG, the with sales in excess of $50 million. women’s version was created for the U.S. debut. According to Pedro Escudero, di- Celebrity-endorsed fragrances are finally filtering into the mass market rector of marketing, PUIG has plans to extend the men’s franchise and import with Curious from Britney Spears and Jessica Simpson’s Dessert leading the other European success stories as well as unveil new innovations in the beauty way. But Antonio Banderas is, according to retailers’ recollections, the only category. PUIG also markets and My Scene body sprays and fine fra- celebrity with men’s and women’s offerings. Coty is using hunky Matthew grances in the U.S.

SHISEIDO PROMOTION: Linda Ten Eyck has been Brinkley’s Second Act as CoverGirl Face TOP NOTES appointed vice president of NEW YORK — Love is timeless, and apparently, so is beauty. sales operations for Cosmetics (America) Ltd. Ten Christie Brinkley, 51, is returning to CoverGirl, the brand that Eyck was formerly senior executive director of retail helped launch her famous face nearly 30 years ago, in a deal that will operations. In her new post, Ten Eyck will identify synergies put her as the spokeswoman of a new makeup line. Details of the line within the sales administration department and also oversee were not revealed, but mass beauty buyers at a recent cosmetics trade inventory planning and forecasting. Ten Eyck, who has been show said it would target older women. One buyer said that Procter & with the company for seven years, now reports to Heidi Gamble, CoverGirl’s parent, would cross-promote its Olay brand with Manheimer, president of U.S. operations for the New York- the new cosmetics line, by touting it as one with skin benefits. based arm of the Tokyo-based beauty giant. P&G would not comment on the line, saying only that Brinkley had signed a “multiyear contract…to promote upcoming new products.” PACKAGING STARPOWER: Liza Minnelli will host Marc The move marks Brinkley’s first campaign for the brand in almost Rosen’s Pratt/Luxe Pack award dinner on May 10 in New 10 years. She was CoverGirl’s face for 20 years. York. The honoree will be Bath & Body Works and its chief “CoverGirl is part of my DNA and I’m thrilled to be back with ‘fam- executive officer Neil Fiske. ily,’” Brinkley said in a release. “I’m excited to promote products de- veloped for women like me who seek a fresh, natural beauty look and BRANCHING OUT: A little more than a year after launching want good-for-your skin products. I’m looking forward to working exclusively in Walgreens stores, Pavés’ namesake hair with the brand at a time when there is so much innovation.” care collection, Pavés Professional Flawless, rolled out to Brinkley will be featured in an upcoming national print and TV ad all 150 Ulta doors this month. The specialty retailer has campaign for the new CoverGirl line. Anne Martin, vice president of allotted 2 feet of shelf space for the celebrity hairstylist’s Global Cosmetics and Beauty Marketing, Procter & Gamble, said line of nine sulfate-free cleansing, conditioning and styling Brinkley’s “fresh, flawless skin and carefree smile” is still very much products. Pavés Professional will remain “semiexclusive” what women look for in beauty today, making her an obvious choice to at Walgreens for 2005, but it is able to expand into retail doors where the drugstore chain does not directly represent the new line. Christie Brinkley — Andrea Nagel complete, said a Pavés Professional spokesman. PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY FABRIZIO FERRI SYMBIOSIS MAKESTHEFINERFRAGRANCE shall wedance? 14 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM Extracts Expo Welcomes Newbies

NEW YORK — In an industry of giants, the Extracts trade show gives smaller handmade body creams — Extracts marked their very first trade show. Several beauty companies a hospitable venue to get noticed. In recent years, the exhibitors commented that while traffic stalled somewhat over the weekend, percentage of first-time Extracts exhibitors has grown, reaching nearly 50 they were pleased with interest they received from buyers, particularly percent at the spring show. That figure was up from 38 percent from the international retailers. The event, organized by George Little Management, previous year. In all, 132 companies — which includes 64 new exhibitors — attracted 5,300 attendees, including buyers from Nordstrom, Bed Bath & showcased their wares at the natural beauty and wellness expo held at the Beyond and Target. Among the rows of established players and entrepreneurs, Jacobs K. Javits Center here April 8-11. For some fledgling companies — such several new notable takes on beauty and wellness emerged. as the men’s grooming line Scruff New York and Naked Paint, a range of — Molly Prior

GLITTERATI SCRUFF NEW YORK Mor Cosmetics, the Australian-based beauty Men’s grooming lines can be just a little too fancy, noted Peter company that hit U.S. soil last year, unveiled a Tarulli, creator of Scruff New York, a new men’s care sultry, shimmering collection called Glitterati. collection that made its debut at Extracts. “Less is more,” said The line — inspired by the around-the-globe Tarulli, a former district manager for The Art of Shaving, who travels of its founders Dianna Burmas and Deon helped open the retailer’s concept store in the Time Warner Iuretigh — includes four “destinations,” named Center at Columbus Circle. “Right now, this is where men are,” Tahitian Bronze, Moroccan Gold, Ibiza Disco and he added, pointing to his line of seven straightforward skin Icelandic Snow. Each destination comprises a lip care products. The line’s name and minimalist packaging, ties gloss, shimmer puff, eau de parfum, body into Tarulli’s mission of creating an approachable “personal maintenance” line that highlighter and body cream. Prices range from tends to common skin concerns. The product assortment includes 2/Wash (mild $18 for the lip gloss to $40 for the eau de parfum. cleanser); 2/Scrub (exfoliator); 2/Smooth (ultralight moisturizer); 2/Shave (shave gel); Fred Segal managed to get the entire line last 2/Heal (aftershave spray); 2/Hide (eye balm) and 2/New York, a “city defense lotion” holiday, but Mor is currently courting specialty designed to manage oil and shine. The company will donate a portion of the and high-end retailers for Glitterati’s major proceeds from 2/New York to the Multiple Sclerosis Society of New York. Products, launch this summer. Mor is stipulating that which Tarulli said are ripe for specialty shops and apothecaries, range in price from retailers buy a minimum of two destinations. $18 to $30. The goal is to get Scruff in 40 doors by yearend.

AROMACHOLOGY LITTLE TWIG Fruits & Passion, a familiar sight at Extracts show first-timer Lenie Ramos dreamed up Little Twig after her sister snubbed Extracts, introduced , a line her nose at the bubble bath Ramos had bought for her niece. A glance at the ingredient of products designed to create a sense of list revealed that the product contained substances that can irritate young skin. Soon well-being through essential oils. “We’ve after, Ramos — a graphic designer by training — got to work on formulating a mild, all- taken a category that has been natural bubble bath. In the two years since launching Little Twig, Ramos has built a 10- oversaturated and fine-tuned it,” said item collection of natural baby products. Ramos said she consulted with pediatricians Heather David, Fruits & Passion’s and parents to develop the formulas, which are free of mineral oil, talcum and sulfates director of business development, USA. — ingredients that can be harmful to a baby’s skin. The products, which range in price The essential oils are available in their from the $6 caterpillar washcloth to the Baby Basics gift set for $44, have already found purest form or can be blended with a home in high-end retailers such as Fred Segal and ABC Carpet & Home. New Aromachology’s neutral bath oil or massage oil. For those who aren’t well versed in additions to the line include Diaper Cream: Soothe, Travel essential oils and their benefits, Fruits & Passion concocted a range of preblended Basics Gift Pack — stocked with mini versions of baby wash, bath oils, foaming baths, massage oils and floral waters. Each product is formulated lotion, diaper cream, baby powder and a bath mitt — and to solve a specific problem, such as the Respiratory Congestion Foaming Bath and Scrubby Bug Bath Mitts (available in ladybug or bumble Sore Muscles Massage Oil. The assortment of 10 Pure Essential Oils ranges from the bee). Ramos attended Extracts to introduce the brand to a $12 Sweet Orange (said to calm and improve concentration) to $18 for Rosewood wider market and attract some sizable retail accounts in the (said to relieve anxiety). The bulk of the products sell for between $20 to $22. In process. As part of ramping up the company’s public June, the line will nab shelf space in all eight California-based Burke Williams relations effort, she also plans on attending the upcoming stores and Whitney Chemist in New York City. Extracts shows, scheduled for Aug. 13-16 and Nov. 13-15.

In other show news: Naked Paint, the brainchild of two at the show. The line, which is primarily sold in spa begun a bulk program for spas…Principessa — the ex-dot-comers, has expanded its handmade body care and specialty shops on the West Coast and in the Italian word for “princess”— launched at the fall line with the introduction of Figment Body Crème. The Midwest — save for The Plaza hotel — now boasts a Extracts show in 2003 as an assortment of luxurious $30 cream is formulated with shea butter, evening fresh, feminine logo. Standout products include Soy spa products. Founder Trish Lucarino said women primrose oil and sweet almond oil. Naked Paint’s $35 Body Sheen, Sugar Glow and Soy Body Whip in scents adored the fresh, floral scent of the products so much Belly Butter, a maternity cream designed to minimize such as Poppy and Chamomile Flower & Red that she bottled it up. The pure oil, called stretch marks and dryness, is the line’s Orchid…Practical Nature, cofounded by holistic Piccolo Perfume, comes in a delicate tiny vial with a bestseller…Skin An Apothecary showed off a new look healing expert and massage therapist Nelle Davis, has roller applicator housed in an equally small tin for $35. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

gig or working with a private client — his list Diamond, co-president of Conair Corp., is includes Jennifer Lopez and Renée Zellweger. overseeing the brand. Scünci, which is based He’d also like to play more of a consulting in Hatboro, Pa., holds the leadership position role, giving advice on certain hairstyles and in hair accessories in food, drug and mass SNIPPETS making sure everyone who “walks out the door stores with more than 50 percent market looks amazing.” Oribe is still also focusing on share, according to Information Resources BOUND: Oribe has just opened his his product line, which he recently expanded Inc., and is Conair’s largest acquisition to South Beach salon, a one-story, 2,500- into 12 items, including shampoos, date. It’s expected that Scünci’s headquarters square-foot structure located on 1627 Euclid conditioners and moisture creams, adding on will be kept, and manufacturing will continue Avenue at Lincoln Road that took more than to a pomade he created in the Nineties. His as it is “at the moment,” according to the The new Oribe salon in South Beach. one year and almost $1 million to build. The newest item will be a pomade without grease. company, as Conair is assessing “the best sleek, modern salon’s most outstanding way to move forward with the Scünci brand to thick hair with tightly wound curls and is feature: a liquid floor, which is made to look CONAIR BUYS SCUNCI: The Conair Corp. and make a seamless integration.” designed to calm frizz with a silicone- like diamonds. Oribe, who’s kept a house in acquired Scünci International’s hair enriched formula. Curlkarma will retail for Miami for several years, decided to start a accessory business late last month for an SAM’S THE MAN: Hairstylist and salon owner $12.95 and Curlinterrupted for $14.95 at salon there for a change of pace; his undisclosed amount. Conair, which is based Sam Brocato is adding two new products to salons in the U.S., the U.K. and Canada Manhattan salon closed in 2004. in Stamford, Conn., plans to expand the his 30-item hair care line. Both address curly beginning this month. In other Brocato news, “I wanted a break from the salon business Scünci brand into hair appliances, Conair’s hair, one called Curlkarma and the other, the stylist, president and artistic director of in New York,” Oribe said. category of expertise, according to the Curlinterrupted. The first is an energizing Brocato America has received the Lifetime Prices start at $60 for a blowout and go to company. Conair also plans to increase cream designed to enhance wave and curl Achievement award this year at the North $400 for a cut with Oribe. The hairstylist said Scünci’s presence overseas. Nearly all of with moisture. It is best for fine to medium American Hairstyling Awards, which he plans to be in the salon at least one day a Scünci’s employees, including Lester Kaplan, hair with soft, delicate curls that are dry and recognizes outstanding contributions to the week when he’s not freelancing an editorial Scünci’s president, have been retained. Ron fragile. Curlinterrupted is meant for medium hair and beauty industry. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 15 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

optimism now, more spending going on, and I think the magazine will reflect that in the future.” Pop Sci’s Whiz Kid MEMO PAD Interestingly, the magazine just unveiled a new logo with the word “budget” downplayed and “living” in larger, more prominent type. NEW YORK — Singling out stars David Remnick PODIUM FATIGUE: By all accounts, Miller’s departure is entirely in a room full of potential Attendees of this year’s amicable, though. She and Welsh appear to have poachers isn’t exactly the best National Magazine agreed to disagree. Miller will be staying on at the staffing strategy. But that didn’t Awards got to see an magazine through April to close the May issue, and stop Popular Science editor in awful lot of New Yorker chief Mark Jannot from prais- while she will take some time off to travel, several editor David Remnick — editors who’ve worked with her said they think ing Mike Haney during this perhaps a bit more than week’s National Magazine she’ll be back to something “ambitious and some would have wished. entrepreneurial” within a few weeks. — S.J. Awards. After winning the new (And, no, we don’t mean award for best section, Jannot Vanity Fair’s Graydon passed most of the credit along WALKEN FOR PEACE: Who knew Tony Danza had a Carter, who lost to his to the young Haney, who was thing for international diplomacy? The talk show hired as an assistant editor Condé Nast counterpart in three categories. Both host was front and center at Thursday’s panel fresh out of Northwestern’s magazines are part of Advance Publications Inc., discussion on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict hosted Medill School of Journalism in parent of WWD.) Prior to this week’s ceremony, by The Week magazine. Adding to the random December 2003. Marlene Kahan, executive director of the American celebrity factor were Philip Seymour Hoffman, Daniel It wasn’t as if Jannot didn’t Society of Magazine Editors, which dispenses the Day-Lewis and Christopher Walken, the latter sporting know any better. Just last year, awards, sent an e-mail to finalists, asking those a glorious silver pompadour and looking, as usual, Scott Mowbray — who was then The current issue of Popular Science. who were nominated in multiple categories to like he had just popped in from another dimension. editor of Popular Science but consider, for variety’s sake, bringing along writers to Moderated by Harold Evans, The Week’s editor at has since been promoted to Time4 Media’s editorial director — accept their own awards. Remnick didn’t, although large, the panel consisted of former Secretary of won the magazine’s first ASME for general excellence and he did bring director of photography Elisabeth State Henry Kissinger thanked his design director, Dirk Barnett, from the stage. Two Biondi, who was nominated in the photo essay- and ambassador Dennis months later, Barnett left for Premiere. photo portfolio category but didn’t win. The result: Ross. Together, they According to Jannot, Haney, now associate editor, had vowed to his five trips to the podium. A New Yorker represented a spectrum win his first ASME by age 30. Since the plucky 29-year-old just spokeswoman said Remnick did not remember of opinion ranging, in checked that off on his to-do list, WWD caught up with him to talk getting Kahan’s request but would be delighted to about “How 2.0” and the Popular Science tradition of passing Kissinger’s words, “from let writers accept on the magazine’s behalf in the A to B.” Both agreed on around a Patrón bottle post awards. Here’s a shocker: the over- future. That would certainly be a nice way to Philip achiever abstained. — Sara James the need to abandon recognize their contributions. Printing a masthead Seymour gradual negotiations in wouldn’t hurt, either. — Jeff Bercovici Hoffman WWD: So what’s a respectable tequila shot count for a first-time favor of a and comprehensive peace ASME winner? Christopher GLOVES GO ON: Don’t cut plan. “Unless both Mike Haney: I’m not a big tequila drinker, so for me, it’s zero. Walken Teen Vogue publisher sides have agreed on WWD: How many phone calls have you received since Gina Sanders off in line where they want to go, it’s going to be impossible to Wednesday? for the salad bar. make the decisions that have to be made,” M.H.: I’ve received a few congratulatory phone calls from friends, Sanders and her Kissinger rumbled. Other spectators included Tina and my mom and dad are pretty excited. But that’s about it. publishing staff recently Brown (aka, Evans’ wife), Fox News’ Geraldo Rivera, brushed up on their former special prosecutor Kenneth Starr and former WWD: So no job offers yet? Teen Vogue publisher Gina boxing skills at Monkee Micky Dolenz. Speaking of random. — J.B. M.H.: No. Sanders lands her punch. Gleason’s Gym in Brooklyn, with trainers NEW SETTING FOR DIAMOND: Kerry Diamond, who has WWD: Science isn’t exactly a sexy magazine subject. What made Lennox Blackmoore, Delem Parsley and Don Saxby. been beauty director of Harper’s Bazaar since you want to work on a science title right out of J school? Sanders, who organized the outing to celebrate the August 2001, is joining the Lancôme division of M.H.: My background isn’t as much in science as it is in tech. I’ve magazine’s strong ad performance in February, March L’Oréal USA as vice president of public relations, long been a fan of gadgets, so it was a huge thrill to come here and and April, even got in the ring with one of the gym’s reporting to Edgar Huber, president of the Luxury work on this section and this magazine, which has had an amaz- prize fighters. Her sparring partner was Wezley Hobbs, ing turnaround in the last few years. Products Division. “I’ve literally been doing a Queens-based boxer who, just last week, won the newspapers or magazines since the third grade,” New York Daily News’ Golden Glove title for 165- Diamond said. “I’m the kind of person who loves WWD: What was the how-to behind “How 2.0”? pound novice at Madison Square Garden. (Teen M.H.: The section was already conceived when I was hired. Mark new challenges.” Vogue, like WWD, is part of Advance Publications Inc.) Prior to joining Bazaar, Diamond was on the [Jannot] and Scott [Mowbray] had come up with the general idea and “They was eager to learn,” Hobbs said in true had some of the stories and columns in mind. We launched very beauty editorial staff of WWD, first as prestige boxer-ese of the Teen Vogue staffers. “Some of quickly. About a month after I was hired, we closed the first issue. beauty editor and then as the founding editor of them were working out aggression. Maybe they Beauty Biz magazine. She wrote one book, “Kevyn WWD: As a tech editor, do you actually have to read instruction have stress at home, and this was relieving it. And Aucoin: A Beautiful Life,” and collaborated on manuals cover to cover or do you skim like everyone else? some were just happy to be in the gym having fun. another — “Beautified” by “Queer Eye for the M.H.: I don’t even look at them until something’s almost broken. “I spar with a lot of people,” Hobbs continued. Straight Guy” Kyan Douglas. She has also worked Then if I’m frustrated and turning bright red, I might open one up. “Names don’t stick with me, but faces do. There with hairdresser Sally Hershberger on her soon-to-be was this one lady, she had a shorter haircut and published book, “Shagg.” WWD: Does that mean you just have the tech gene? Or can the glasses. I don’t remember her name. But she At Lancôme, Diamond will succeed Suzie layperson learn TiVo, too? looked like she fought before, like out in the street Davidowitz, who is being promoted to senior vice M.H.: I think it’s absolutely something the layperson can learn. or something.” — Sara James president of corporate communications for The magazine is written for people who don’t consider them- L’Oréal USA, reporting to Rebecca Caruso, selves experts. All you need is a curiosity about [gadgets] and a BLOWING BUDGET: Last week’s announcement that executive vice president of corporate willingness to play with them. Sarah Gray Miller would be stepping down as editor communications and external affairs. Her last day in chief of Budget Living perhaps wasn’t as much at Bazaar will be May 13. — Pete Born WWD: Do you ever get calls from friends to hook up their DVD of a shock to her staff as originally reported. players? Several sources at the magazine said they weren’t DEEP FOCUS: It’s been a long wait, but the second M.H.: Yeah, I get those calls. “Should I buy an iPod?” or “What’s surprised to see Miller giving notice because she’d the best TV?” It’s nice to be in this part of the business. issue of Influence is finally here. Chuck Close, seemed disenchanted with editorial input from the Bruce Weber, Wolfgang Tillmans, Eve Fowler, Hilton publication’s business side in recent months. Als and Adam Gopnik are among the contributors to WWD: Which is harder: Getting pictures off of a cell phone, set- Chairman and publisher of Budget Living Don ting up WiFi or filing your taxes online? the oversized magazine, which made its debut a Welsh spoke fondly of M.H.: I would argue that all three of those are fairly manageable year ago and explores the nature of art and tasks. But getting a really good picture from a cell phone, that’s Miller before creativity. For the new issue, founder Raul Martinez tricky. acknowledging a possible chose to delve into portraiture. “I had felt that in change in direction for photography, images have been getting so technical WWD: Now that you’ve got the ASME by 30, what are you aiming the magazine. “It’s a and manufactured, but at the same time, I kept for next? different world today,” he hearing from people, ‘Can you keep me real?’” said M.H.: It’s all downhill from here. I just want to keep doing good said. “We launched two- Martinez, who is chief executive of ad agency A/R work here. And keep winning awards. I think [Mark Jannot] is on and-a-half years ago, Media. “One starts questioning what is real and number seven, so I’ve got a long way to go to follow in his foot- right after the World what isn’t — what does a true portrait convey and steps. Trade Center attacks. I can it be taken?” A magazine that can answer think there’s more questions of that metaphysical caliber must be WWD: So who gets custody of the Ellie? You or Jannot? ▲ Budget Living’s new logo. considered a bargain — even at $10 a pop. — J.B. M.H.: It will be on display in Mark’s office. But he has nice win- dows, so I can look in anytime and get a peek. 16 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 WWD.COM Belk Near Deal With Saks Inc. Continued from page one sellers, oftentimes more hopeful than realistic, ask for the higher price thinking that within the next week, perhaps as soon as today, financial and real estate sources said. Belk maybe a bidding war might push the dollar amount even higher. is said to have been eyeing Proffitt’s for quite some time. More recently, it began looking at Yet others who have looked more dispassionately at the sites — they know the mar- McRae’s and Saks’ Parisian division, real estate sources in the department store sector said. ket place and are consulting with retailers on projects, but not in connection with a Neither Saks Inc. vice chairman Steve Sadove nor a Belk official would comment. purchase of the Saks nameplates — also have noted that many of the stores are “so-so” A deal for Proffitt’s and McRae’s would expand Belk’s retail influence in the and that they wouldn’t be worth the “capital expenditures” needed to upgrade them. Southeastern states where it already operates. Parisian, while considered the better When Proffitt’s and Saks Holdings merged in 1998, there were concerns over expec- name within the Saks department store group, has units in both the Southeast and the tations regarding a savings of $60 million to $80 million over a two-year period after Midwest. A Belk acquisition of Parisian, however, would move Belk into the Midwest, a the merger from synergies in MIS, logistics, finance and transportation. And the pitch move that some real estate sources said didn’t appear to be in the cards. A piecemeal sale of the Belk posted an 11.3 percent increase in net income SAKS INC. STORE PORTFOLIO to $124.1 million and an 8 percent boost in sales to nameplates would raise several $2.45 billion for the year ended Jan. 29. This compares with net income of $111.5 million on sales of $2.25 bil- UNITS STORE LOCATIONS questions: Does this mean Saks lion in the previous year. Belk opened 14 stores in Bergner’s 14 Midwest 2004, adding 964,300 square feet, and completed eight 10 Midwest already has buyers lined up for renovations and three expansions. Many people in investment banking, hedge fund and Carson Pirie Scott 30 Midwest the other nameplates? Is the credit markets had expected a push by Saks for the sale Club Libby Lu 41 National of its entire department store group, and had placed a Herberger’s 40 Midwest rest of the department store valuation of $2 billion to $2.5 billion for the entire oper- McRae’s 30 Southeast ation. Saks has been looking for a buyer for the depart- group going to be sold by store Parisian 38 Southeast ment store operation since January. Saks’ sale of Proffitt’s would represent the first step in an unravel- Proffitt’s 22 Southeast location, with the ones not sold ing of the nameplates that Proffit’s Inc. built before it Younkers 48 Midwest acquired Saks Holdings Inc. in September 1998. That being closed? purchase resulted in Proffitt’s changing its corporate Enterprises 109 name to Saks Inc. In addition to Proffitt’s, McRae’s and from both camps to shareholders was that the then-$3.5 Parisian, the department store division includes the billion Proffitt’s and the $2.5 billion Saks Holdings nameplates Bergner’s, Boston Store, Carson Pirie Saks Fifth Avenue 57 National would create a moderate-to-upscale retail powerhouse. Scott, Club Libby Lu, Herberger’s and Younkers. Saks Off Fifth 52 National When the deal was announced in July 1998,

A piecemeal sale of the nameplates would raise SOURCE: SAKS INC. WEB SITE. COMPILED BY AMY S. CHOI Proffitt’s was trading around $40 a share, while Saks several questions: Does this mean Saks already has Holdings was trading in the $29 range. In September of buyers lined up for the other nameplates? Is the rest of the department store group the same year, just before the merger went into effect, shares of Proffitt’s traded going to be sold by store location, with the ones not sold being closed? Might Saks elect around $25 and Saks closed in the $23 range. to keep some nameplates, such as Parisian and Club Libby Lu? Fast-forward to 2005, Saks Inc. is trading on the Big Board near its 52-week high of One credit source who has been keeping tabs on Saks noted that there may be a $19.27, compared with its 52-week low of $11.61. Shares of Saks closed on Thursday at paucity of buyers for some of the remaining nameplates, particularly since those stores $18.84, up 26 cents, with almost 3.8 million shares changing hands versus a three- are in localized markets. month average trading volume of nearly 1.5 million. “I’m not sure who would want Carson Pirie Scott in Chicago,’’ he said. “The same is As for the intervening years, Citigroup Global Markets analyst Deborah Weinswig true of Bergner’s in Illinois and Boston Store in Wisconsin.” wrote in a research on “Roadmap to Retail Deals” dated April 13: “Although the There also could be another wrinkle to the sale of the remaining stores, one that original merger had been intended to upgrade Proffitt’s portfolio of department would impact both valuation and the dollars that eventually would be added to Saks’ stores, not only were the stores not upgraded, synergies and cost savings were also coffers in the event of a sale. not realized as a result of the merger.” The department store group operates stores in tertiary markets, sometimes Saks in July 2000 had contemplated a spin-off of Saks Fifth Avenue. That was never referred to as C and/or D locations. The widely circulated valuation among financial accomplished because of recessionary issues and concern over bondholder reaction circles is that those C and D locations are worth about $70 to $75 a square foot. Some regarding possible allocation of debt. real estate professionals dispute that figure, judging the value to be more in the range In the last year, a new management team was named to head up the SFA division, of $30 to $35 a square foot. which last month unveiled a luxury battle plan that emphasizes shoppers’ needs as the To be sure, real estate professionals paid by retailers for their help in acquiring linchpin in redefining Saks’ retail image. new store sites are likely to lower valuations to push down the purchase price. And —With contributions from David Moin

magazines like Vogue and Elle and I feel nothing but disgust. I just Theft Hits Polo Shares find it repulsive — the whole sensibility. I find ordinary women on Fashion Scoops the street more interesting. All those bony women give me the NEW YORK — Shares of Polo Ralph Lauren on creeps. They just look like coat hangers.” Maybe the cartoonish Thursday fell 3.3 percent in trading after the SAHARA NIGHTS: Penélope Cruz Penélope party invitation should have been a tip-off. A balloon above disclosure that the credit card information of and Ralph Lauren still have a Cruz Crumb’s name read “I’M NOT HERE TO BE POLITE!” some customers may have been compromised. thing for each other. When Cruz Polo’s stock closed at $37.18, down $1.28, discovered she would be A RHINO NAMED ECKO: Ecko, the rhino. in New York Stock Exchange trading. attending a premiere for her Marc Ecko might very well “Since being informed in fall 2004 that new movie, “Sahara,” in be the only person in the some credit card information of its cus- Madrid, she phoned Lauren fashion business to have a tomers may have been misappropriated, and asked him to make a baby rhino named after Polo Ralph Lauren has worked diligently “special dress” for her. Given him. The International with law enforcement officials and credit that Madrid is her hometown, Rhino Foundation and the card companies to determine the origin and and her family and beau, San Diego Zoo’s Wild the extent of the compromise,” a Polo Matthew McConaughey, would Animal Park named a spokeswoman said Thursday. be in attendance, Cruz wanted recently born Indian rhino “The company did learn that certain cred- to wow the crowd. Ralph after the clothing designer it card information may have been retained obliged — happily whipping up as part of a joint initiative and stored in its point-of-sale software. The a custom-made strapless dress geared at saving the world’s Indian rhino population. Marc Ecko and company took immediate steps to purge this of organza tulle with cap Ecko Unlimited made an initial contribution of $150,000 to IRF as data and cure the problem. The company is sleeves and hand-beaded with part of a larger multiyear financial commitment and overall confident that its credit card system is se- gold sequins for the former face partnership effort to double the populations of the Indian, black and

cure, and that our customers’ credit card in- of Polo. WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Sumatran rhinos, three of the planet’s most endangered species. The formation is properly protected,” she added. rhino has been the official logo of the Ecko brand since its inception The Wall Street Journal reported that OUT OF FASHION: Cartoonist Robert Crumb is the antifashionista. He 12 years ago. criminals may have obtained access to the was the guest of honor at a party Tuesday at the Stella McCartney information of 180,000 cardholders of store, but spent most of the night tucked away in a corner taking in AIR TIME: Christian Lacroix, who just unveiled chic new navy General Motors-branded Master Card credit the Big Band tunes. Unimpressed by the hipsters checking out his uniforms for Air France, has a much more casual approach to his cards issued by HSBC Holdings PLC who cartoon for a customized $175 McCartney T-shirt, Crumb turned own in-flight wardrobe. “I only wear wide pants and sweats, shoes used the cards to shop at Polo stores. They his attention to Vince Giordano’s Nighthawks. The music, after all, that are easy to take on and off and always a scarf or a large were notified by HSBC that they should get was his call. Crumb, 61, has no urge to extend his run in the shawl,” he said. “I try to avoid clothes that are too tight, shirts or new cards. designer world. “I’m not interested in fashion; I think it’s all silly,” jeans.” As for his favorite traveling accessories: “I take all kinds of —Vicki M. Young he said. “The whole thing just seems freaky to me….I look at these homeopathic medicine and pills against jet lag,” he quipped. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 17 WWD.COM Daffy’s Downtown Digs Murakami’s Take on Fashion By Sharon Edelson president of the Alliance for Down- NEW YORK — Three days after the opening of the town New York. “There is very high exhibition he curated at the Japan Society here, NEW YORK — Marcia Wilson, purchasing power here. The pri- artist Takashi Murakami was on a tight schedule, president and chief executive of- vate sector wage is over $100,000.” giving a private tour of the show, “Little Boy: The ficer of Daffy’s, began looking to Real estate brokers said rents Arts of Japan’s Exploding Subculture.” open a store in lower Manhattan along Broadway range from $55 a Murakami has collaborated with Louis Vuitton more than four years ago and was square foot to $75 a square foot. designer Marc Jacobs on several distinctive hand- scheduled to see a retail space in Neil A. Lipinski, senior man- bag collections. The first, colorful logo patterns, the World Trade Center on the aging director at Colliers ABR, some with eyeballs, was followed by cherry blos- morning of Sept. 11. represented Daffy’s and the soms. For spring-summer 2005, he designed smil- Now, as lower Manhattan re- United Federation of Teachers, ing cherries. Louis Vuitton anticipated selling builds following the devastation, which owns the building. about $345 million worth of Murakami products in the discounter is set to open today Daffy’s is planning to open an- 2003, making the artist something of a celebrity. In ZACKPHOTO BY SECKLER at 50 Broadway. At 18,500 square other store in August in White Japan, he sells his work on factory-made watches Takashi Murakami with “Three Pairs From Three feet, the store is smaller than a Plains, N.Y. Gary Beitbart, the and T-shirts while his art is bought for six figures. Triplets” by Yoshitomo Nara at the Japan Society. typical Daffy’s unit. “Our women’s company’s chief operating officer, With his hair pulled into a bun and wearing a saw the fake Vuitton handbags with my designs. wear selection here will be a little said the goal is to build 25 stores in black Patagonia vest and a shirt by Haath, an Then I felt, yes, I succeeded in this project. With bit edgier,” Wilson said. the New York region within the Issey Miyake protégé, Murakami shared his the fakes, I succeeded in blurring the line be- Daffy’s will be open seven days next two years. views on art and popular culture and where fash- tween high and low. a week. The company kept some of “We’re in an expansion mode,” ion fits into his life. Murakami answered some WWD: What do you think of today’s fashion? the 1929 building’s original fea- Wilson said. “We’re looking to ex- questions in English and deferred others to an T.M.: Designers are so creative. To be able to tures, including the wooden stair pand in Manhattan, the boroughs interpreter. He appeared friendly and talkative, make twice a year or more is amazing. I rail, marble floor and decorative and New Jersey.” nothing like his depiction as an aloof superstar: receive so much inspiration from them. From my ceiling, while adding new signage, Weisbrod said 330,000 people collaboration with Louis Vuitton I have begun to open racks and shelves for display- work in lower Manhattan, and there WWD: Louis Vuitton has had unqualified suc- look at the fashion industry in general and ing accessories. Sales are project- is a resident population of 33,000. cess with your designs. How do you view the learned a lot about technique and the process of ed at $500 to $600 a square foot. “What you’re seeing is signifi- collaboration? brand-making and the making of a happening and A few years ago Daffy’s would cant change on Broadway,” he said. Takashi Murakami: With Louis Vuitton, my collab- creating a real trend of the times. have been a fashion island in a sea “It’s a street in transition. It will be- oration started through sheer luck. One day I re- WWD: Who are your favorite designers? of banks and other financial serv- come a major retail thoroughfare.” ceived a letter from Marc Jacobs. One of my fe- T.M.: My favorite designers are Marc Jacobs and ice retailers on Broadway. But Weisbrod anticipates that the male assistants knew the name and went kind of Issey Miyake. I went to Marc Jacobs’ show on that’s changing. Nine West and Ann World Trade Center site will be a crazy. She said he was a cool designer. I took the Feb. 9. It became a big happening when the Taylor opened on Broadway, as did major retail destination when re- opportunity to collaborate. Now I understand the show was delayed for 90 minutes. Men’s Wearhouse and Borders construction is completed. impact and significance of the fashion industry. WWD: Have you ever thought of designing apparel? Books Music & Cafe. Hickey “The Port Authority is now As an artist, I wouldn’t pursue it, but if someone T.M.: I was, at one point, thinking of developing Freeman is opening a shop at 111 working on an rfp [request for approached me I would consider it. a line of kids’ clothing but I don’t have the time Broadway in June focusing on its proposal] for a master retail WWD: Should there be a clear line between art now. Two big sportswear companies have con- custom-made suits. lease,’’ he said. “The stores at the and commerce? tacted me about opportunities. I can’t say the “Lower Manhattan is under- Trade Center will be very high- T.M.: Initially, I had a resentment of the quality of names. But it’s not my interest to do something served by 1 million to 2 million end and I’m confident a depart- the printing on the leather of the Vuitton hand- so similar to what I’m doing. It looks like Part II. square feet,” said Carl Weisbrod, ment store will be part of that.” bags. That year I went to the Venice Biennale and — S.E.

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The Dolce & Gabbana store in Hangzhou. Dolce & Gabbana Land in China By Lisa Movius Hangzhou, Ethan Allen and Bentley dealerships, and several other hotels and malls still under construction. Dolce & Gabbana’s existing neighbors at EuroStreet include HANGZHOU, China — Dolce & Gabbana just keeps rolling. a French restaurant and Swarovski and Hailives stores. In the next several months, Releasing estimated financial data for the first quarter of 2005 as it opened a store the 376,670-square-foot compound will add shops for Armani, Armani Casa, here, the company said its earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and allowances Ermenegildo Zegna, Omega, Alviero Martini, Hempel and Giadanio A. Paladini. climbed 12 percent to 135 million euros, or $174.1 million at current exchange, on a 15 Located about 75 miles south of Shanghai, Hangzhou enjoys a symbiotic cultural percent increase in wholesale revenues to 1 billion euros, or $1.29 billion. EBIT rose and economic relationship with that city, but has a larger role as the capital of 9 percent to 109 million euros, or $140.6 million, while consolidated revenues grew 20 Zhejiang Province. Zhejiang, the most prosperous area of the emerging Yangtze River percent to 700 million euros, or $903 million. Delta, is home to 46.8 million people and, along with Hangzhou, contains the impor- Meanwhile, the company has taken another major stride by opening its first store tant port cities of Ningbo and Wenzhou. With a written history dating back 2,200 in mainland China at Hangzhou’s EuroStreet, a new luxury mall on the shores of the years, and famous for the scenic West Lake, or Xihu, hilly tea plantations and count- city’s famous West Lake. less temples and museums, Hangzhou is one of China’s most popular tourist destina- The company chose Hangzhou, among China’s most affluent cities and a prime tions, attracting some 30 million visitors a year. tourist destination, because of its thriving retail climate. It also was the first area in Along with tourism, the city also boasts strong manufacturing and information China to enact World Trade Organization rules allowing foreign enterprises to wholly technology industries, with GDP growing 15 percent to $23.26 billion. According to the own their retail operations. Dolce & Gabbana plans to use Hangzhou as a base to Hangzhou Bureau of Statistics, the city’s population of 6.4 million has an average an- gradually expand in China, with openings in Shanghai and Beijing slated for 2006. nual disposable income of $1,558, very high by Chinese standards. The combination of The 7,500-square-foot store, which opened earlier this month, occupies a three-story local wealth, the Zhejiang tourist influx and tourist spending has created a ripe retail building and features the designers’ women’s, men’s and accessories collections. environment in Hangzhou. Women’s wear is on the ground floor and men’s on the second, with both areas being Hangzhou Tower, the city’s largest and most successful luxury mall, sees foot traf- about 2,150 square feet. The 1,300-square-foot third floor is a VIP area featuring premi- fic of 30,000 to 50,000 shoppers a day, and last year reaped profits of 1.8 billion yuan, um products and leads into an outdoor patio that will be used for events and exhibitions. or about $225 million, according to its director, Tong Minqiang. Wang Lan, editor of The design by Ferruccio Laviani is dominated by black glass, interspersed with win- Zhejiang lifestyle magazine Exquisite Life, said all of Hangzhou’s retail properties dows, and with flourishes such as whimsical purple glass Murano chandeliers and silver operate in the black and are quite successful. chain curtains. The walls of the VIP area are lined with fur, reputedly pelts from south- Dolce & Gabbana’s Hangzhou flagship is part of the small chain of stores it oper- ern China’s SARS-notorious civet cat. ates throughout Asia. The company opened in Japan only three years ago, and The group now has 87 group-owned stores worldwide. launched a Hong Kong boutique in June 2004. Domenico Dolce observed, via e-mail, According to a spokesman, the company established the wholly owned Dolce & that “China is certainly a key market, where we plan to establish very important oper- Gabbana Hangzhou Ltd. in January this year, making it “the first Italian fashion com- ations. But, apart from figures and business, this is a country where presence is im- pany to obtain the retail license to operate in China without local partners.” The flag- portant, a country you need to get to know. The Chinese are a bit like Italians: They ship in Shanghai and the shop in the Beijing Palace Hotel planned for 2006 also will are very hard workers, are very fast and have good taste. Tellingly, they boast a great be wholly owned. Since 2000, the group has followed a policy of total verticalization culture of fashion, textiles and colors.” and control of both production and distribution. The company spokesman added that Dolce & Gabbana will stress brand position- Via e-mail, Stefano Gabbana told WWD: “We have always proceeded step-by-step ing in the immediate future, with a focus on men’s wear. In regard to China’s rampant in all the new markets we have scouted and this policy has definitely turned out to be piracy of branded goods, “we are well aware of the seriousness of this issue and…are a winning one, if we see the results we are obtaining.” proceeding with caution, taking all necessary precautions both from a production and He said that, while the group has plans to expand further in China beyond the legal safeguarding point of view in order to restrict the impact of this phenomenon.” Shanghai and Beijing openings, it is premature to fix dates. The Hangzhou opening was attended by several group executives, including the The EuroStreet mall is Hangzhou’s newest luxury property, and part of a larger de- newly appointed Giacomo Santucci, previously head of the Gucci brand who now is velopment of the Hubin Road area, which also includes the new Hyatt Regency Dolce & Gabbana’s commercial, licenses and retail director. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 2005 19 WWD.COM

A fall-winter look by Angelo Tarlazzi Returns for Act Two in U.S. Tarlazzi.

By Miles Socha lazzi are Jimmy’s in Brooklyn, mate. The factory also produces Ultimo in Chicago. Takashimaya in Manhattan and for brands such as Rochas, Re- Among the best-booking styles PARIS — Angelo Tarlazzi, a de- Jamie in Nashville, which are gina Rubens and Lilith. for fall are ribbon-trimmed, signer who gained fame in the among the two-dozen retailers that Two years ago, Tarlazzi shawl-collared pantsuits in gray Eighties for his dramatic evening- picked up the line this season. stopped showing his collection on jersey, a black jersey and taffeta wear and flyaway dresses, is out “Our customers tend to re- the runway during Paris Fashion evening coat and a turtleneck to conquer America — again. spond well when we bring back Week, which reduced his industry sweater-cum-poncho that recalls Although absent from the a collection they had a fond profile. However, he said elimi- Tarlazzi’s famous batwing styles market for about a decade, memory of,” said Penne Weidig, nating the exorbitant expense from the Eighties. Wholesale Tarlazzi is making new inroads collections buyer at Tootsie’s in helps him keep the pricing sharp prices range from $185 to $250 for at top specialty stores with his . “The knitwear pieces vis-à-vis his competitors. knitwear, $150 to $295 for skirts clever knits and tailored jer- sold right away.” “It’s better to sell well and and $515 to $555 for pantsuits. seys, priced slightly under com- Italian-born Tarlazzi, who concentrate on sales,” he said. Market sources estimate the parable European collections. launched his label here in 1978, “Our prices are our advertising.” label generates wholesale vol- “When I started, the first buy- has been operating under the Tarlazzi distributes his col- ume approaching 6 million ers who came were the Ameri- radar as the company changed lection to about 150 specialty euros, or about $7.7 million at cans,” Tarlazzi recalled during hands and regrouped. Its owner stores in Europe and Japan. The current exchange. an interview at his showroom is Deniaud, a French construc- U.S. represents only about 10 Tarlazzi started his fashion here. “These are the people who tion group. percent of sales, but the goal is career with the Roman house of are passionate about the fashion Tarlazzi credits its factory in to reach 30 percent in the com- Carosa. He has also worked as a business.” the Brittany region of France, ing years. designer at , Laura He said they are also realis- which employs 49 people, for In support of the U.S. push, Biagiotti and Basile. After tic about clothes that are easy to being able to control quality and Tarlazzi has organized a pro- launching his signature label, sell for women ages 30 and up — ensure timely deliveries that are gram of trunk shows next he also was the haute couture his target. so essential to building a fashion month, taking in such stores as designer at and a

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