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EDITOR’S LETTER

techno ROSE CALLAHAN

The other day I was in a store that had no traditional registers. Employees wielding devices milled around what was once the cash wrap, and when I walked up with an impulse purchase, they were happy to help me. But then the device didn’t work. So the “cashier” went into the back to get a new one. I waited patiently. That one didn’t work either. I offered cash, but she couldn’t take it. And in that moment my desire to impulsively make this purchase disappeared. The employee tried to con- vince me that it would be just “one moment more” as I watched the device slowly boot up. In the end I walked out empty-handed. Technology is great. It’s necessary. It’s crucial for small businesses. But we can’t be completely reliant on it. We must learn how to be flexible, use the technology to augment our ways of doing business, not rule it. I recently listened to a podcast about automated, driverless vehicles. The theory is that someday we will not own cars; instead the streets will be filled with driverless cars that we can get in and out of like ongoing taxis. It’s appealing, of course, but it’s also a little daunting. I’m not sure the world is ready to make that shift. And that is, I think, where comes in. People embrace and crocheting on the cover so they can do things for themselves, with their own hands. Yet yarn lovers have always BULL’S-EYE! been early adapters of technology—among the first to embrace blogging and to find Hit the mark with any one of the dozens of tweedy colors available in ways to use the Internet to enhance the wider yarn community rather than fragment it. Knit One Too’s Brae . This issue, we look at how working with your hands has benefits beyond those we The 60% /20% baby /10% /10% donegal is a know—that it fights depression, improves your mental health. It can have a real effect winner. www.knitonecrochettoo.com on, ironically, the math aptitude of children (the ones who will be creating our robot

Photograph by Marcus Tullis overlords?). We look at the ways technology has allowed for more autonomy when pub- lishing your own —but at what cost? I’d love to hear how you’re using technology in new ways while still maintaining the same personal touch that is the hallmark of a successful business. Don’t ever hesitate to email me at [email protected].

Erin Slonaker, Editor in Chief FOLLOW YARN MARKET NEWS MAGAZINE ON FACEBOOK

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features

36 I KNIT, THEREFORE I CAN The link between handcrafts and emo- tional well-being. By Carrie Barron, M.D.

40 GOING TO PRESS A look at self-publishing in the world. By Carol J. Sulcoski SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015 30 Kristine Vejar is celebrating the release of her new with a selection of special hand- kits. 10

MARCUS TULLIS

in every issue

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 8 MARKET REPORT 16 BOOK REVIEWS 18 YARN FORWARD 20 TNNA UPDATE

Developing Yarns that glimmer 22 YARN GROUP UPDATE gives Berroco’s Warren and shimmer are hot 23 & GROUP Wheelock the freedom this holiday season. 24 CYC UPDATE 44 to create. 18 25 26 SMART ONLINE 28 SMART MERCHANDISING 30 SMART LEGAL 32 PROFILE Loops, Tulsa, Oklahoma 34 COMPANY PROFILE ChiaoGoo 44 CELEBRITY INTERVIEW Berroco’s Warren Wheelock

“Knitting keeps me To self-publish or sane,” says the owner not to self-publish? of Loops, which is cele- That is the question. 32 brating its 10th year. 40 YMN1015-Westminster.indd 1 8/28/15 12:05 PM 006_YMSO15Masthead.REVISE:YMNMA05masthead 9/1/15 3:04 PM Page 6

Editorial Director TRISHA MALCOLM

Editor in Chief ERIN SLONAKER

Creative Director JOE VIOR

Managing Editor LESLIE A. BARBER

EDITORIAL Contributing Editors CAROL J. SULCOSKI LESLIE PETROVSKI

ARTANDPRODUCTION Online Production Manager JOE Senior Graphic Designer ALICIA MACKIN

ADVERTISING,EVENTSANDMARKETING Director of Advertising Sales DOREEN CONNORS (212) 937-2554, [email protected]

Accounts Manager REBECCA KEVELSON (212) 937-2557, [email protected]

Events Director GABRIELLE ALD (212) 225-9001, [email protected]

Marketing Manager BETH RITTER (212) 225-9006, [email protected]

Events Manager KARIMA AMIR (212) 225-9011, [email protected]

SOHOPUBLISHINGCOMPANY President JOINNIDES Publisher DAVID JOINNIDES Controller ELAINE MOWBRAY

CONFERENCEADVISORYBOARD JOAN LOOI, Sales BETSY PERRY, Classic Elite Yarns

Magazine Publishers of America Manufactured and printed in the of America

Yarn Market News™ is a trademark of SoHo Publishing, LLC. YMN is published three times a year, in January, May and September/October, in the U.S. and Canada. © 2015 by SoHo Publishing Company, LLC, 161 Avenue of the , Suite 1301, New York, NY 10013. No part of this book may be copied or reproduced by any means without written permission of the Publisher. Executive, publishing, editorial and adver- tising offices: 161Avenue of the Americas, Suite 1301, New York, NY 10013.

HOW TO REACH US TO SUBSCRIBE, CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR CANCEL A SUBSCRIPTION: visit www.yarnmarketnews.com or e-mail [email protected]

EDITORIAL COMMENTS: e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]

The next issue of YMN will mail on December 7. ¬

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SAVE THE DATE! SMARTSMART BUSINESS BUSINESS CONFERENCE CONFERENCE ATLANTA March 6–8, 2016 A three-day symposium featuring speakers and sessions devoted to providing the information needed to thrive in today’s marketplace. CONFERENCE INCLUDES: • VIP gift bag overflowing with relevant samples • Luncheon with guided networking topics • Cocktail party to meet fellow store owners • Gala dinner with inspiring keynote speaker ¬ • Atlanta–area yarn crawl VISIT WEBSITE FOR DETAILS

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MARKET REPORT BYCAROLJ.SULCOSKI CREATING YOUR SHINE M Rowan announced an exciting collections, Daytime and Evening, new collaboration with Austrian with Atkinson knitting in and crystal company Swarovski to pre- Kohlhoffer them on. (Atkin- mier in its fall 2015 collection. Part of son’s exquisite beaded wedding gown Rowan’s Create Your Style initiative, created much buzz at TNNA’s trade the collaboration will “celebrate the show in Columbus.) brilliance their crystals can bring to Each collection has its own pat- knitted garments while creating a tern brochure; accessory patterns from unique, personal effect,” says Linda both collections will also be available Pratt, consumer marketing manager as paid downloads via Ravelry.com. of Westminster . Also available is an accent yarn called The Create Your Shine program Kidsilk Haze Shine, consisting of features crystals in several key colors three plies of Rowan’s best-selling and sizes, along with curated collec- Kidsilk Haze twisted with a ply of tions of Swarovski beads and crystals strung with approximately 100 CHANGING OF in designer packages. Beads and 3mm Swarovski crystals. These 10- crystals can be knitted into the work meter balls will be used as accents THE GUARD or used as sewn onto on free patterns that will debut on est wishes to , award-winning author, journalist a finished design. Tospotlight this Rowan’s website later this year. teacher, fiber consultant and television host, has replaced versatility, Rowan designer Jennie Shipping begins October 1, with a B spring collection to follow in early and television personality Brett Bara as the show’s new host. Atkinson collaborated with Swarovski 2016. www.knitrowan.com Bara, who recently announced her Norville is a lifelong knitter and designer Marlene Kohlhoffer on two departure from the public televi- crocheter; her eponymous yarn sion show Knit and Crochet Now! collection was launched by Premier after an amazing eight-year run Yarns in 2008 and now features HOW SWEET IT IS as host. “It has been so much fun more than 20 individual yarns. Artisan dyer SweetGeorgia Yarns that SweetGeorgia releases and will to be part of [the show],” says Fans of KCN can binge-watch M announced that Tabetha Hedrick will design patterns herself. Bara. “I’ll miss the entire KCN all eight seasons of the show via an join the company as its new design “I’m excited to welcome Tabetha to family. I look forward to following All-Access Membership, which director for knitwear. Hedrick, a con- the SweetGeorgia family,” said Felicia the show.” Bara will turn her enables subscribers to watch shows Lo, founder and creative director of full-time attention to Brooklyn on demand, download all projects SweetGeorgia. “Her eye for design, com- Company, her craft and DIY featured in the shows, plus other bined with her experience in building studio offering classes, studio benefits, for an annual fee of tributing editor at Creative Knitting collections from start to finish, makes space and special events. $24.95. Learn more at www.annies magazine, will be responsible for man- her the perfect representative for our Deborah Norville (above), catalog.com/knitandcrochetnow. aging the patterns and collections brand.” www.sweetgeorgiayarns.com GOODWILL M Shira Blumenthal (left) was recently named company. I’ve dreamed of working for Lion Brand for as long as I can remember.” Brand Ambassador for Lion Brand Yarn Co. www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2VjAZ-N13BCG1_0ts6m8qVlJGzsNCnjz Blumenthal, daughter of Lion Brand’s President and CEO David Blumenthal, first starting working Designer, teacher and podcaster Marly Bird was named brand representative for at Lion Brand when she was a mere 5 years old. Red Heart in the spring. It’s a perfect fit for Bird, a longtime fan of Red Heart yarns. “On days I didn’t have school, I would be my “I started crocheting with Red Heart, and it’s the only yarn I used for a long time,” father’s assistant’s assistant. Officially I started she explains. Bird credits the brand with fostering a closer relationship with her working for Lion Brand, at the Lion Brand Studio, grandmother, an avid crocheter: “It allowed me to connect with my grandmother, in February 2013.” In addition to refining her because Red Heart is the yarn she always used.” Bird will continue creating YouTube knitting and crochet skills, Blumenthal teaches videos sponsored by the brand, contributing patterns to the Red Heart website, classes, visits guilds and schools, films educational videos for YouTube, and repre- representing the company at various fiber-related events, and expanding her in- sents the company at trade shows and other events. She’s especially excited about volvement, perhaps doing crochet- and knit-alongs. “I am very excited,” she says. her new YouTube series “Tea with Shira,” in which she invites viewers to share a “I love the customers I get to meet in person and online.” Get to know Bird in virtual cup of tea with her and a guest. “I’m a fifth-generation family member of this her introductory Red Heart video at www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hn6VUj1BxE.

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JOB WELL DONE

M Designer, author and yarn maven Debbie Bliss (right) was recently hon- ored as a Member of the Most Excellent BRIT KNITS Order of the British Empire for her distin- M Knitters and crocheters counting Lady Mary is a glittering DK-weight guished service to the hand-knitting the weeks until Downton Abbey’s chainette yarn; Lady Sybil is a sport- and . Bliss, who says she is new season begins can indulge their weight blend of , acrylic “overwhelmed” by the honor, cites the yearning for Grantham style with and ; and Branson is a chunky influence of her late mother, who taught Premier Yarns’ new collection of heathered wool/acrylic. Each yarn her to knit and always offered her yarns and patterns—a collection offi- comes in a palette of eight colors steadfast support. “I am accepting this cially licensed by the makers of the inspired by the vintage style of the award on behalf of all the fantastic knit- PBS series. In October, Premier will series, with a MSRP of $5.99 per ters and knitting teachers everywhere skein. support will be pro- also designed exclusive patterns, with introduce four yarns, each inspired who spread the word and encourage vided in the of free tear-off all proceeds going to Safe Passage. “Our by a beloved Downton character: sheets and free online patterns. new generations with their love of the roots as a yarn shop are here in the Pio- Matthew is a classic -weight craft.” www.debbieblissonline.com neer Valley, and we are extremely blessed wool/acrylic blend with tweed flecks; Learn more at premieryarns.com. Kathy and Steve Elkins, owners to have a wonderful local community of of Webs—America’s Yarn Store, were customers,” Kathy Elkins explains. “We honored with the Human Service Forum have a responsibility to give back to our 2015 Business Award for their longtime community.” www.yarn.com SWEET-HEART DEAL support of Safe Passage, a nonprofit Best wishes to Lisa Shroyer, who M Nadine Curtis of Be Sweet and Laurie Cook of Mango Moon recently organization working to end domestic announced in June that she was step- announced that Mango Moon has acquired the entire Be Sweet yarn line; violence and oppression in women’s ping down as editor of Interweave Knits distribution of Be Sweet yarns was transitioned to Mango Moon’s Michigan lives. Kathy, Steve and the entire Webs to take on a new position as content headquarters in the spring. Mango Moon will continue to offer the unique team actively participate in the Hot strategist for Interweave’s Knitting yarns Be Sweet is known for, including South African mohair, hand-dyed Chocolate Run for Safe Passage, the Group. Said Shroyer, “I’m sad to leave bamboo and the Simply Sweet collection, and plans to source yarns as Be nonprofit’s biggest fundraiser, both by the editorship of Knits, but this is the Sweet has done, working with job-creation programs in South Africa. fielding a team of runners and walkers right challenge and the right time for Says Cook, “This is an excellent fit for Mango Moon, since we work with who fundraise for the event and by me to step up as a leader.” At press spinners in Nepal and Indonesia who rely on their handcrafts to support them- matching every dollar that their team time, Shroyer’s successor as editor-in- selves and their children.” Curtis, Be Sweet’s founder, will serve as creative raises. Members of Team Webs have chief had yet to be named. consultant for the transitional period; she’ll then turn her full attention to her retail shop, 7 On Locust, located in Mill Valley, California. www.mangomoon yarn.com; www.7onlocust.com IN MEMORIAM Trudy van Stralen (1942–2015) M The fiber world mourns the loss of Trudy van Stralen, founder of Louet North America and an influential hand CLOSING CHAPTER dyer, weaver and designer. Van Stralen was born in Utrecht, M Melanie Falick surprised the learn Adobe Illustrator, take a sur- ; she and her husband Jan emigrated to Can- publishing world last spring when face design class, travel to India and ada in 1967. She was devoted to her family and raised she announced she was leaving , learn how to change a tire her children—Claudia, David, Julie and the late Wouter— Abrams/STC Books. Falick started and put up a tent, and on and on.” on a farm near Prescott, Ontario. When her children were her own imprint, Melanie Falick Falick has not ruled out a future school age, she started a small business called Hilltop Books, twelve years ago, publishing in publishing, but she is seeking, . Later, she founded Louet North America in the same such blockbuster titles as Weekend as she puts it, “some distance from location that Hilltop Wools operated from; the company is still located there today. Knitting, Handknit Holidays, Knitting the everyday grind of it so I can fig- Van Stralen’s talents were legion: She learned to knit as a girl in Holland; in in America and Knit Wear Love. ure out how to innovate successfully the late 1990s, she returned to with a passion, creating hand-knit Falick explains, “I want to take and contribute in more of a multi- designs and developing new yarns for Louet. She was especially renowned for time to rest/wander/breathe/explore media nature moving forward.” The her hand-dyeing skills, specializing in the use of natural dyestuffs, and her book and to think about the things I’ve STC Craft imprint will continue; Indigo Madder Marigold remains a classic reference on natural dyeing. She was always wanted to do, and see if I at press time, there was no word on also a skilled weaver and avid spinner, contributing designs to magazines includ- can make some of them happen: Falick’s successor. www.abrams ing Handwoven and Spin-Off. spend more time in the garden, books.com/imprints/stccraft 9 008-013_YMSO15MarketReport.FINAL:Layout 1 9/1/15 11:30 AM Page 10

MARKET REPORT THE WHOLE KIT AND CABOODLE

Kristine Vejar, of the hand-dyeing company and Oakland, California, yarn shop A Verb for Keeping Warm, is celebrating the release of her new book, The Modern Natural Dyer (Abrams/STC Craft), with a selection of special kits. Vejar explains, “While natural dyeing is becoming increasingly pop- ular, it can be a challenge to source the materials needed. We wanted to make it easy for shop own- ers to take part in the fun and fascinating practice of natural dyeing.” Kits are packaged in durable, kraft--covered and include everything— yarn or fabric or other item to be dyed, embellish- ment, plus all and other agents required for natural dyeing—needed to complete the project. Four kits will be offered with a MSRP of $30; Vejar plans to add more kits in the future. For wholesale information, visit www.averbforkeepingwarm.com. Cocoknits premiered a new Care Kit, designed with one-piece sweater construction in mind. Julie Weisenberger explains, “As the trend for seamless sweater construction continues, is M Kits are it this fall—perfect impulse purchases to often the same as hand-washing. This kit allows you keep by the register or to make gift giving easy for to gently wash your garment [a bottle of Eucalan the craft-challenged. and two fine- zippered bags are included], roll Fans of Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander , and it in a huge, absorbent towel, then lay it out on the popular Showtime series inspired by them, will an absorbent grid (in either inches or centimeters).” want to out Lion Brand’s licensed Outlander Kits also include a pop-up dryer that allows air to kits, releasing this fall. Kits include Lion Brand yarn circulate around the garment, reducing drying time, and accompanying patterns, photographed and and a storage bag. MSRP is $75; kits are avail- styled with full-on Gaelic flair. able on a wholesale basis. www.cocoknits.com

DIY KNIT-CESSORIES IN MEMORIAM Lisa Grossman, Tsarina of Tsocks (1957–2015) M Knitters who Toencourage knitters to experiment have admired the with creating their own unique knitted M The fiber industry lost a bright light when designer Lisa Grossman, better beautiful knitted jewelry, Skacel is sponsoring a contest. known as the Tsarina of Tsocks, passed away peacefully at home. Grossman jewelry of Pavia Says Chuck Wilmesher, director of was a talented fiber artist, specializing in what she termed “Art for the Feet,” Lewis—who uses new product research and development, creative and often challenging designs inspired by literature, history, decorative minia- “Knit up something gorgeous and folklore or whatever took her fancy. Among her most popular designs ture knitting nee- unique on the necklace, and then email were Shark Week, cleverly crafted that look uncannily like twin sharks dles and yarn to us one clear, well-photographed picture devouring the wearer’s feet (one from the top, one from the bottom); make her striking showing it off.” Skacel will select 10 Firebird, with a vivid phoenix design; and Willow Ware, featuring a delicate pieces—can now make their very own favorite necklaces and give each of the blue and white pattern reminiscent of . Grossman was a talented knit- . Lewis collaborated with selectees an Addi Click set of their ter who took a lengthy hiatus from the craft, founding her own Skacel Collection and Addi to create choice; one grand prize winner will also business and exploring the worlds of dance, food scholarship and writing, to two necklace bases with strong magnet- receive $500 worth of HiKoo yarn. name a few. She returned to knitting with a vengeance, adopting the moniker ized closures that allow easy fastening Entries must be received by November “Tsarina of Tsocks” in to the great Russian novelists. Longtime friend and removal. The necklace bases are 13. Top 10 winners will be notified by Barbara Bonn describes Grossman as “engaged with the world and every- available in two sizes, in Addi Natura or November 20; the Grand Prize winner thing in it, curious and knowledgeable about everything from breeds Addi Turbo needle styles. Simple garter will be announced December 4. Read to Bollywood movies. Since I’ve known her, I always wanted to be Lisa when is all it takes to make a unique contest rules at www.skacelknitting. I grew up.... I wanted that varied a collection of talents, that kind of inde- piece of knitted art. com/diy-knitcessories. pendence and vision, and that much courage to see visions become reality.”

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TNNA TEN AWARD WINNER: IN MEMORIAM FREDERIKKA PAYNE Grace Cooper (1945–2015) M M Congratulations to Frederikka Payne, winner of and Steinbach Wolle, along with patterns (including Knitters and crocheters across the country were the 2015 TNNA Tribute to Excellence in Needlearts the Effectiveness by Design line by Michelle saddened to hear of the passing of Grace Cooper, (TEN) Award. The TEN Award recognizes individuals Wyman), and more. founder of Atelier Yarns in San Francisco. Cooper who represent the finest in the needlearts industry Payne also hand-dyes yarn under the name Ogier taught knitting and crochet in the Bay Area for and who personify and uphold the TNNA mission Trading; at first, she focused on dyeing yarn used for many years before opening her own shop in 1991. statement. Payne owns Aurora Yarns, a wholesale hair and but is now expanding Amanda Madlener, Cooper’s niece, recalls how her distributor of yarns, patterns, buttons and swifts into the knitting and crochet market. Payne has been aunt sought a fresh start in California following a instrumental in creating a TNNA presence (called that has been in business for 32 years. divorce: “She took everything she had in the Payne first dipped a toe into the world of “the NeedleArts Zone”) at the national Maker Faire world and put it into her own yarn shop. Everyone when she was 8, when she taught her- festivals, two-day family-friendly events that take told her she was crazy, but she ended up building self how to embroider; she next explored crochet, place throughout the U.S. “We estimate that we’ve a successful store.” Although Cooper had had a and knitting. Payne opened a yarn store taught more than 15,000 men, women and child- when she was 22. She recalls, “I had a great time ren how to knit, crochet, needlepoint, cross-stitch successful career in advertising, crafting and, in and learned a lot but had to close four years later due and spin,” says Payne, who chairs TNNA’s Maker particular, art were longstanding loves. “She to illness.” She decided to continue in the industry Faire committee. “And at least 850,000 people have learned needlepoint, weaving, beading—she did as an importer, eventually founding Aurora Yarns. been exposed to the needlearts by our being at it all,” Madlener says. But Cooper’s skills as a busi- Aurora currently distributes yarn lines by King Cole Maker Faire.” www.aurorayarns.com nessperson were just as important. “So often it’s hard for people to wear both , but Grace was very savvy.” Cooper’s impact on the fiber world is long-lasting; some of her former students have MAKING HIS PITCH gone on to their own careers in the industry. “She was the personification of her name,” says M Eisaku Noro, founder of Noro Yarns, and his son Takuo were honored guests at the 11th Madlener. “She was funny and sweet, and she Annual Stitch-n-Pitch at Safeco Field in Seattle in July. The senior Mr. Noro threw out the game’s made other people feel good. I only started to un- first pitch, then signed books courtesy of Knitting Fever and event sponsor Pacific Fabrics. Ap- proximately 30 local shops sold yarn, fabric and other stitch-related goodies at a special market- derstand her legacy when I heard from people place at the stadium. Attendees received a tote bag along with their ticket purchase. Although how Grace had changed their lives.” Atelier Yarns the Mariners lost to the Arizona Diamondbacks, stitchers relished the opportunity to enjoy and Atelier Marin will continue Cooper’s legacy, baseball and their favorite crafts, meeting other local knitters, crocheters and quilters, and of helmed by her daughter and niece, respectively. course getting in a little shopping during the seventh-inning stretch. www.atelieryarns.com

STAR-POWERED SHOPS

people’s reactions to the yarn: What do they like about the different fibers, and which colors attract them most? A bricks-and-mortar store lets us interact directly with our customers, and I can take their feedback directly into the new products we design.” Noted knitting instructor Amy Detjen is a staff member and will be teach- ing classes at the KnitCircus Studio. Spiro will also offer felting and hand-dyeing classes, retreats, book signings, classes from other well-known fiber teachers, and pop-up stores from other indie fiber businesses. www.knitcircus.com If you, too, are never not knitting and find yourself in the central coastal Califor- nia area, stop by Alana Dakos’s new shop. Dakos, author of Botanical Knits and individual patterns under the brand Never Not Knitting, recently took the plunge, moving her wholesale business to dedicated space and opening up a small store- front. “Owning a retail shop has been a fantasy of mine since I learned to knit,” M Jaala Spiro began her foray into the knitting world as editor and publisher of the explains Dakos. “My goal is to support and showcase the work of independent e- KnitCircus. She then turned her attention to hand-dyeing, specializing in hand- artists. We currently don’t have the room to function as a full-service yarn shop, painted gradient and self-striping yarns produced under the KnitCircus name. Now but I am hoping that it will still be a fun stop for knitters—a place for them to find Spiro has opened a bricks-and-mortar location in Madison, Wisconsin, allowing some uncommon specialty items.” Dakos also hopes that dipping a toe into the KnitCircus fans to purchase her unique striping yarns—along with a carefully curated retail waters will give her a better understanding of what her own wholesale cus- selection of other products—in person. Why opt for a retail location? One reason tomers are looking for. Currently, Never Not Knitting is open from 1 to 3 P.M. on was space—Spiro’s hand- business was bursting at the seams. Spiro also is looking weekdays and by appointment. Dakos is hoping to add special events, designer forward to more customer contact: “The piece missing for me was getting to see visits and book signings. www.nevernotknitting.com 008-013_YMSO15MarketReport.FINAL:Layout 1 9/1/15 11:31 AM Page 12

MARKET REPORT POWER TO SCORE BIG WITH SCOREBOARD M Football fans and those who knit for them, eligible to win prizes including KAL yarn, THE PODCAST mark this on your calendar: Skacel Collection needles and customized tote bags; participating is teaming up with designer Michelle “Knit retailers will receive marketing support from Purl” Hunter for the 2015 Scoreboard Knit- Skacel, as well as the chance to win in-store along. Participants will create a hand-knit cowl prizes for customers and employees. “Few in HiKoo Simplicity yarn, in their favorite team things in life bring a group together and kindle colors, with rows inspired by the score of each excitement quite like a football game,” says game. (Participants can add an optional third Skacel’s marketing director, Rob Delmont. color to contrast with the stripes representing “And when you add knitting to the mix, it only each game.) Participating knitters will be gets better.” www.scoreboardkal.com

M Want to hear more about the inner workings of SQUARED AWAY the fiber industry? Tune in to Power Purls, a new pod- cast hosted by Creative Knitting Editor Kara Gott M Crochet maven Jenny King wants to get Warner. The podcast premieres October 1, with sub- you squared away—into a stylish, well-fitting sequent episodes appearing biweekly, available via garment that you’ve hooked up yourself. King’s iTunes and Stitcher Radio. Warner hopes her own new Get Squared series of videos explains the knitting experience and her position as an industry in- method, which uses the ubiquitous sider will bring a fresh take to the knitting podcast, as its starting point but requires no complex which will feature candid conversations with schematics. By combining the method with just knitwear designers and yarn company reps as well two easy-to-take measurements—bust and arm as everyday knitters who have compelling personal circumference—crocheters can create garments stories. “This podcast is not about just another knit- that fit beautifully, using any weight of yarn. Ex- ting pattern. I want to go deep and find out what re- plains King, “This technique is foolproof—there a pullover, cardigans and a . “My technique ally makes each guest tick,” says Warner. Topics will is no gauging the pattern and no sewing, which allows for an infinite number of garment designs include strategies for starting a career as a designer; most crocheters hate.” Get Squared introductory that will fit you perfectly to be created,” King an Ask the Editor Q&A segment; yarn company spot- classes are available online or stored on a USB declares. “One Get Squared convert has already lights; and conversations with designers and . stick that actually looks like a and made 10 different garments just from the introduc- Visit www.powerpurlspodcast.com for more info. include instructions for five garments, including tory patterns.” www.jennykingdesigns.com

IN MEMORIAM PASSPORT TO ZEALANA Marinke “Wink” Slump (1984–2015) M Zealana has a story to tell—about preservation and protection M The fiber world mourns the death of popular cro- and its unique line of yarns created in New Zealand. Enter Passport, a chet author and designer Marinke Slump, known new magazine that provides patterns and yarn information, along to her legions of fans as “Wink.” Slump took her with a healthy dose of inspiration. Cirilia Rose, Zealana’s brand am- own life after a battle with severe depression, said bassador, explains the purpose of the magazine: “We make highly her sister, writing on the designer’s , A Creative unique yarns, and they do take a bit of explaining. The conservation Being. Based in the Netherlands, Wink learned to story is included in every issue, alongside trend pieces, interviews, crochet from a book and developed a winning com- yarn and book reviews, and whatever catches our eye that particular bination of bright colors, geometric designs and a season.” The free magazine also includes a tear-off strip featuring fresh sensibility—a style she described as “hippie yarn samples that readers can detach and take to their local yarn boho chic.” Her first book, Boho Crochet, was pub- shops. Each issue focuses on three Zealana yarns, with patterns for a lished by Martingale in February; her second book, larger and smaller item made from each, allowing the reader to opt Crochet Mandalas, published by Dover, is scheduled for a project that her budget and time constraints. Says Rose, for release this fall. Visit the memorial website to “Zealana fans are far-flung and so is the team, so we chose the name share memories at wink.muchloved.com. Passport to reflect the wanderlust that can inspire.” Passport is avail- able at Zealana stockists or via digital download at www.zealana.com.

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Events to keep you in stitches this fall. (For more, visit YMN CALENDAR www.yarnmarketnews.com.)

September 25–27 October 3–4 October 23–25 November 7 15th Annual Northern Michigan Vermont Sheep & Wool Festival KnitEast 2015 East Texas Fiber Festival Lamb and Wool Festival Tunbridge Fairgrounds The Algonquin Resort Pickers Pavilion Ogemaw County Fairgrounds Tunbridge, Vermont St. Andrews By-the-Sea, Lindale, Texas Lower Peninsula, West Branch, vtsheepandwoolfest.com New Brunswick, Canada easttexasfiberfestival.weebly.com Michigan kniteast.com lambandwoolfestival.com October 3–4 November 7–8 Wool Festival at Taos October 29–November 1 FiberMania September 25–27 Kit Carson Park Geeky Puffin Knit Palooza Josephine County Fairgrounds New York City Yarn Crawl Taos, New Mexico The Gillis Centre Grants Pass, Oregon Manhattan to Brooklyn taoswoolfestival.org Edinburgh, sojaa.com/page/4109/fibermania yarncrawlnyc.com geekypuffinknitpalooza.blogspot. October 3–4 co.uk November 7–8 September 26–27 Fall Fiber Festival & Montpelier The Fiber Festival of New Oregon Flock & Fiber Festival Sheepdog Trials October 30–November 1 Mallary Complex at Eastern States Clackamas County Event Center James Madison's Montpelier Annie’s Craft Festival Exposition Canby, Oregon Montpelier Station, Virginia Grand Wayne Convention Center West Springfield, flockandfiberfestival.com www.fallfiberfestival.org Fort Wayne, Indiana thebige.com anniescraftfestival.com September 26–27 October 3–4 November 7–8 Southern Adirondack Fiber Michigan International October 30–November 1 The Royal Challenge Festival Alpacafest Southeastern Fair Georgia National Fairgrounds Washington County Fairgrounds Summit Sports & Ice Complex Western NC Agricultural Center & Agricenter Greenwich, New York Dimondale, Michigan Fletcher, North Carolina Perry, Georgia adkfiber.com alpacafest.org saffsite.org georgia-alpaca.com

September 26–27 October 5–11 November 5–6 November 13–15 Masham Sheep Fair Spinzilla Men’s Midwest Knitting Retreat Knit Fit! Masham, Ripon various locations Circle Pines Center Ballard Community Center North Yorkshire, U.K. spinzilla.org Delton, Michigan Seattle, Washington mashamsheepfair.com mensknittingretreat.com/ knitfitseattle.com October 7–11 scheduled-events.html September 26–October 4 The Knitting & Stitching Show November 13–15 Shetland Wool Week Alexandra Palace November 5–9 Carolina Fiber Frolic Shetland Islands , U.K. Camp Stitches Community Center shetlandwoolweek.com theknittingandstitchingshow. Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort Sapphire, North Carolina com/london and Spa carolinafiberfrolic October 1–4 Santa Ana Pueblo, New Mexico The Harveyville Project October 15–17 knittinguniverse.com/Camp November 14–15 Fall Yarn School Creativ Festival Maryland Alpaca and Fleece Harveyville, Kansas Metro Toronto Convention Centre Festival November 6–7 harveyvilleproject.com Toronto, Ontario, Canada Ozark Fiber Fling Howard County Fairgrounds csnf.com The Conference Center West Friendship, Maryland October 2–3 Steelville, Missouri marylandalpacas.org Manitoba Fibre Festival October 17–18 ozarkfiberfling.com Red River Exhibition Park New York Sheep & Wool November 26–29 Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada The Knitting & Stitching Show Festival November 6–8 manitobafibrefestival.com Dutchess County Fairgrounds Columbia Gorge Fiber Festival Harrogate International Centre Rhinebeck, New York Fort Dalles Readiness Center Harrogate, U.K. October 2–4 sheepandwool.com The Dalles, Oregon theknittingandstitchingshow. Vogue Knitting LIVE Chicago columbiagorgefiberfestival.com com/harrogate Palmer House Hilton Hotel October 17–18 Chicago, Illinois Fiber Fusion Northwest November 6–8 November 27–28 vogueknittinglive.com Evergreen State Fairgrounds KnitXperience, A Knitters Delmarva Wool and Fiber Expo Monroe, Washington Retreat Northside Park October 2–4 fiberfusion. Graves Mountain Lodge Ocean City, Maryland Kentucky Wool Festival Syria, Virginia woolandfiber.com 48 Concord Caddo Road carodanfarm.com Falmouth, Kentucky kywoolfest.org

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BOOK REVIEWS BYCAROLJ.SULCOSKI

M Big Knits on working with hand-painted yarns, cupcake, root beer float and party tical stripe—then branch out into the By Martin Storey knitters will find a mix of designs ). Worsted-weight yarn and whimsical. Cow-pattern sweater? St. Martin’s Press; $26.99 for the whole family, including unisex embellish- Sherlock Holmes–inspired deer- ISBN: 978-1250061911 accessories, charming kids’ cardis ments ramp stalker? Pierrot-style cowl and hat? Martin Storey’s exquisitely crafted and adult . Silhouettes are up the cute Check, check and check. But just designs are among the most popular loose and comfortable, with interest- factor without because the patterns are doggone patterns published by Rowan, the ing details like pleated bands, adding fiddli- adorable doesn’t mean they aren’t venerable British yarn company. In oversized cable edgings and broken- ness. Lots of thoughtfully this collection, the designer turns his up stripe patterns enlivening the de- photographs, designed. Bliss attention signs. Plenty of garter and stockinette including shows how to plus-size make these garments accessible even closeups and inset photos demon- specific styles knitwear, to less-experienced knitters. strating special skills (making a pom- differently and the de- pom, attaching a balloon stem) help shaped dogs, signs reflect M Wrapped in Color guide the reader along. A brief skills and she sizes his very ele- By Maie and Taiu Landra section includes instructions on many patterns gant, very Sixth&Spring Books; $17.95 embroidering embellishments and rather than adopt a one-size-fits- appealing ISBN: 978-1936096848 assembly tips. all approach. Of course, the canine sensibility. The Landras’ yarn company, Koigu models steal the show, their sweet Storey Wool Designs, has a rabid following M Crocheted Mitts and Mittens furry faces made even cuter by Jo wisely observes that not all plus-size among yarn aficionados, and with By Amy Gunderson Clark’s wry . women have the same body type, good reason: Their exquisite yarns set Stackpole Books; $21.95 meaning that not every garment will the bar for quality and in a ISBN: 978-0811714105 M Splendid Apparel flatter every woman. He includes an market saturated with artisanal hand- Gunderson, creative lead at Universal By Anna Zilboorg introductory section dividing designs dyes. This collection of 30 shawls Yarn, follows up her book of knitted XRX Books; $28.95 into categories, giving suggestions made exclusively in Koigu yarns gives mitts and mittens with a handy sequel ISBN: 978-1933064307 as to specific body shapes suited the Koigu col- of crocheted designs. Twenty-five Anna Zilboorg observes that while to particular styles. Patterns include lector fresh patterns give crocheters a wealth of knitting is “devoted to making useful flowing wraps with or cable de- inspiration techniques to try: crochet, things,” is “devoted to signs, cropped garments like boleros to pull skeins a touch of , shells, bob- making useful things beautiful.” Her and shrugs, tunic-length styles and from stash bles, lace—it’s all here. Many of the latest book focuses on mixing the mid-length designs, along with some and cast on. designs are aimed at women, but two, with splendid results. The author boxier hip-length sweaters; a few Maie Landra several options, including a pair believes that embroidery should accessories round out the collection. takes the of robot-themed mitts and tweedy enhance the beauty of Knitters who love classic British laboring oar Underpass rather than dominate it. She eschews knitwear but need a more expansive with design, crafting stoles, wraps and mittens, would obvious size range will certainly want to shrugs using lace motifs, dropped please men, types of check out this book. stitches, eyelets and mesh that show too. Closeup brightly col- off her yarn’s glorious hues. She is photos of back ored embel- M Color Wheel Knits ably assisted by other designers, in- and palm of lishment By Veera Välimäki cluding her daughter Taiu and grand- each pattern are (lazy daisy Cooperative Press; $26.95 daughter Kersti. Yarn weights include a thoughtful flowers, say) (print + pdf) the ever-popular fingering-weight (and helpful) detail; large charts mini- for subtler ISBN: 978-1937513672 KPPM and DK-weight Kersti, as well mize eye strain; and 30 pages of stitches, finding just the right place Designer of the wildly popular Color as designs in Koigu’s newer lace technical information give hookers all in the center of a cable or along the Affection shawl, Välimäki draws inspir- and chunky weights. the info they’ll need to create a ward- edge of a lace pattern for a delicate ation for her first book from all the robe of stylish, cozy-warm hand gear. or columns of embroidered shades of the rainbow—or, as she pre- M Happy-Gurumi stitches. The book begins with em- fers to look at it, the spokes of the By Vanessa Chan M Woolly Woofers broidery basics, including diagrams color wheel. Martingale & Co.; $22.99 By Debbie Bliss and tips on yarn and selection. Patterns are ISBN: 978-1604684810 Lark Crafts; $17.95 The remainder of the book explores organized ’s appeal is easy to under- ISBN: 978-1454709121 five types of embroidered knitting: into chapters stand: Its single-crochet stitch is Debbie Bliss adores dogs—her two adding stitches to , cables, all- based on the simple to do, projects require small (beagle and Parson Russell terrier) over patterning, lace and traveling color of the amounts of yarn, and the end result and everyone else’s. So how does a stitches. Each section includes multi- yarn used— is utterly adorable. Chan’s collection designing legend express that doggy ple swatches exploring how embroi- blues and of 20 toys is divided into three chap- love? With a book of adorable, stylish dery can add to a stitch pattern, along greens, reds and pinks, gray and ters: the great outdoors (patterns sweater patterns for contemporary with garment patterns that illustrate brown, and yellow—and Välimäki has include a bumblebee, daisy, sun and canines of all shapes and sizes, of the possibilities. The book succeeds sourced some gorgeous hand-painted hot-air balloon), animal friends (, course. Patterns riff on Bliss’s favor- at educating and inspiring and is yarns for her sample garments. After turtle and ostrich) and party time (no ite classic sweater styles—cabled sure to lead to a creative some helpful background information celebration is complete without a Aran, , , guernsey, nau- in embellished knitwear design.

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M Knit the Sky stitch, with both easy and more tasy and science fiction for stitch- M Handknits by Machine By Lea Redmond challenging knits. Size ranges run ing inspiration. And what fertile By Susan Guagliumi Storey Publishing; $19.95 from S to XL territory it is for the designer Self-published; $38 ISBN: 978-1612123332 for sweaters; who calls herself “Joan of Dark.” ISBN: 978-1503065758 Lea Redmond wants to change the accessories Whether your tastes run to Dr. Guagliumi’s way knitters think about patterns— are mostly Who, Harry Potter, Sherlock Holmes manual on ma- or at least the way they approach one size fits or Game of Thrones, Carr’s book chine knitting is their knitting projects. She hopes that all. Many of has cleverly designed patterns to perfectly timed: they will pay less attention to paper the yarns keep a geeky knitter’s needles There just aren’t and more to their own lives and the will be unfa- clacking for light years. A fez and many resources world around them, then record that miliar to an bow tie à la the Eleventh Doctor, a for those inter- new awareness in their knitting. American knitter, so familiarity with stuffed direwolf from Winterfell, ested in all Her book is as much a meditation on yarn substitution or advice from a multisided dice for gamers, Chthulu the places a good mindfulness as it is a pattern book, savvy shop owner is a must. fingerless gloves—Carr and her can take them. And she is up for although you’ll find a handful of basic contributors have mined all sorts of the challenge, instructing readers in patterns in the back. Eschewing the M Handknits From Norway pop-culture sources to create an need-to-know skills like traditional “technique plus pattern By Karen Marie Vinje outstanding collection of geek chic. and shaping and specific techniques chapters” model, Redmond focuses Trafalgar Square Books; $24.95 Patterns range in difficulty from like lace, knitting and en- on inspiring readers to record the ISBN: 978-1570766879 easy to ad- trelac. While she notes the difficulty passage of time in their knitting (she Love Scandinavian style? Interested vanced; of appealing to her two distinct audi- suggests knit- in stranded knitting? If so, check color charts, ences—machine knitters who know ting a out Vinje’s collection of designs, ample very little about hand knitting and segment each chock-full of folk-inspired sweaters photographs hand knitters who know very little time your child using classic Norwegian motifs. and detailed about machine knitting—Guagliumi grows an inch, Vinje’s mission is to preserve Nor- directions masterfully bridges the divide. Espe- for a portable wegian knitting techniques for make re- cially helpful are photos comparing “height chart”), future generations, and she begins creating techniques done by hand and by memorialize with patterns for favorites like the these distinctive patterns eminently machine and placing a machine-knit special places (work -sized Setesdal sweater and a distinctive doable. Better yet: Carr rounded up swatch and a hand-knit one side by swatches while on vacation, then red-and-white Fana . Stars, all-star models to delight her audience, side. If you’ve ever wondered how to join them for a memory-triggering yokes, lice patterns—they’re all including Joel Hodgon of Mystery expand your machine-knitting skills scarf or throw), and tune in to nature here, some used in very traditional Science Theater 3000, René Auber- or been tempted to cross over from (select a yarn color that matches ways, others incorporated into jonois of Star Trek: Deep Space Nine, hand to machine knitting, pick up each day’s sky and knit a row a day more trend-conscious styles. A Lopi- and sci-fi/fantasy luminaries Neil a copy of this book before you even to create the Sky scarf). The whimsi- style yoke adorns a short dress Gaiman and George R.R. Martin. take your machine out of the . cal illustrations add extra charm to (which can also be worn as a tunic), Redmond’s message that we should stranded motifs are used along strive to add meaning and emotion with beads into every knit and purl stitch. for a sassy I BESTSELLER WATCH with M Perfectly Feminine Knits matching Here’s what topped the bestseller lists By Lene Holme Samsøe mitts and the first week of July 2015: Interweave/F+W; $26.99 hat, a ISBN: 978-1632500830 vest takes Amazon Knitting List Danish designer Samsøe has a Setesdal 1. A Good Yarn, by Debbie Macomber (Harlequin/MIRA) knack for balancing delicate, grace- patterning 2. Curls: Versatile, Wearable Wraps to Knit at Any , ful touches—a gossamer drape of and up- by Hunter Hammersen (Pantsville Press) mohair, a swirl of lace—and classic dates it in pink and purple. Most gar- 3. Cast On, Bind Off, by Leslie Ann Bestor (Storey Publishing) design. The third book in her Femi- ments are designed with women nine Knits series, Samsøe’s latest in mind (although some size ranges Amazon Crochet List features a collection of women’s will seem limited to a U.S. audi- 1. A to Z Crochet: The Ultimate Guide (Martingale) sweaters and accessories. The de- ence), while a few designs include 2. The Granny Square Book, by Margaret Huber (Creative Publishing Int’l) signer has a lovely sensibility, pair- men’s versions. ing natural-fiber yarns in complex, Barnes & Noble Needlework & Fiber List muted colors with clean lines and M Geek Knits 1. Crochet One-Skein Wonders, by Judith Durant & Edie Eckman (Storey) interesting details. The 25 patterns By Joan of Dark 2. The Knitting Answer Book (2nd ed.), by Margaret Radcliffe (Storey) are mainly sweaters and wraps, St. Martin’s ; $21.99 3. Cast On, Bind Off, by Leslie Ann Bestor (Storey Publishing) but you’ll also find smaller projects ISBN: 978-1250051387 4. Workshop, by Margaret Radcliffe (Storey) including mittens and hats. Tech- After exploring the knitted potential 5. The Crochet Answer Book (2nd edition), by Edie Eckman (Storey) niques include basic knits and purls, of the roller and nerd cultures, lace, bobbles, cables and garter Toni Carr turns to the world of fan-

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BOOK REVIEWS

M : comes up with all sorts of cute and aimed at imitat- advanced offerings featuring 99 Step-by-Step Methods clever projects using simple knitted ing other types stranded colorwork, smocked brims, By Judith Durant cords, from accessories (necklaces) of lace; edgings; cables and textured stitchwork. Al- Storey Publishing; $16.95 and room décor (mobiles) to wear- and . though the title focuses on beanies ISBN: 978-1612123318 ables (hats). Adorable models, clear While a few proj- and looser-fitting numbers, you’ll Knitters who directions and tips for freecycling add ect patterns are also find other shapes, including a rely on one to the charm. Bring this one out on a included—notably cap, tried-and-true rainy day and get those kids hooked the lovely gloves earflap hat method for in- on knitting. that appear on the cover—the and turban. creasing and book is more of a technical manual Hats are shown decreasing can M Beaded than a pattern collection. on models of break out of By Anniken Allis all ages, making their shaping rut Stackpole Books; $24.95 M Solveig Larsson’s Knitted this a great by perusing the plethora of choices ISBN: 978-0811714570 Mittens source for gift presented in this handy spiral-bound Knitters who haven’t yet explored By Solveig Larsson knitting or for charity-oriented stitch- book. Durant, author of the best- the way that beads can beautifully Trafalgar Square Books; $22.95 ers always in need of warm head- selling One-Skein Wonders series, complement their lace projects will ISBN: 978-1570767029 wear. Yarn gauges tend toward the ably demonstrates myriad ways to surely be tempted by this collec- Larsson draws on the landscape, worsted and thicker categories, widen or narrow knitted fabric, point- tion of elegant wearables by Norway folklore and, of course, knitting tradi- meaning these tantalizing toppers ing out distinctive features of each native Allis. Lace-knitting newbies tions of northern Sweden to create can be finished in just a few hours. and recommending potential uses. can get up to speed on basic tech- this collection of 40-plus mittens. The book is sensibly organized, niques, then explore patterns that The author assumes that the reader M Modular Crochet breaking down increases, for exam- are helpfully has a basic knowledge of mitten By Judith Copeland ple, into neutral increases (ones that graded making, providing a single prototype Dover Publications; $24.95 don’t lean in a particular direction), by difficulty. pattern in the beginning, then giving ISBN: 978-0486796871 right- and left-leaning increases, multi- As one might cast-on stitch numbers and charts for In keeping with its mission to keep stitch increases, and centered double expect, the individual designs. Nature-themed good books in print, Dover has re- increases, while decreases are shawls, cowls patterns pre- issued this fascinating 1978 title organized by the number of stitches and stoles dominate in the exploring the possibilities of modular they do away with—one, two or take center form of flowers, crochet. Copeland views each gar- multiple. Separate chapters address stage, but feathers and ment as a series of rectangles that decorative increases and decreases Allis adds variety by including options leaves—plus a can be joined in a simple way to as well as special shaping techniques. like fingerless gloves, a poncho, a reindeer, frog make construction easy and efficient: Closeup photos of stitches on the bolero and a vest. Lace- and finger- and hedge- Garments are started with a length needles and finished swatches help it ing-weight yarns predominate, under- hog for good of chains that run vertically down all make sense. A terrific skill-builder standably, given the small diameter measure—but geometric motifs, the center of the body. Rectangles for rookie knitters, Durand’s guide of most beads, and Allis uses lush crosses and stars round out the de- are added to either side of the chain is likely to teach even experienced handpaints as well as a striper or two. signs. Photographs of the Swedish to build the sweater, adding each knitters a few new tricks. Her enthusiasm for adding sparkle countryside, vignettes about local piece modularly. By sticking to this and shimmer to shawls, and history and notes on design inspira- simple struc- M Fun other lacy projects shines through tion make leafing through the book a ture, and By Vickie Howell on every page. pleasure. The beautiful, often intri- emphasizing Quarry Books; $19.99 cate colorwork and lovely cuff varia- the try-on- ISBN: 978-1631590702 M Crochet Lace: Techniques, tions should inspire mitten lovers to as-you-go Knitters and Patterns and Projects create pair after gorgeous pair to nature of crocheters By Pauline Turner keep fingers toasty warm. the process, who spend Dover Publications; $19.95 Copeland time with ISBN: 978-0486794570 M Knitted Beanies & Slouchy Hats promises cus- children know It’s always a pleasure to see an infor- By Diane Serviss tom fit without the need for a tradi- that the mation-packed reference book back Stackpole Books; $19.95 tional written pattern. Inexperienced desire to learn in print, like Pauline Turner’s guide to ISBN: 978-0811713788 crocheters will love her easy-to- how to create , first published in Etsy superstar Serviss, better known follow directions, which break down things out of yarn starts young. But it 2003. Turner starts with the fundamen- to craftheads by her brand name the process into discrete steps, and can be frustrating when children who tals, laying out historical and contem- Pixiedust, has racked up more than large accompanying photographs. are intrigued by knitting don’t have porary approaches to crochet, along 25,000 sales of her charming hand- The remainder of the book explores the developmental patience or neces- with ways in which to hold the hook, knit hats. Now Pixiedust’s fans have the potential of Copeland’s approach, sary motor skills to handle both sticks yarn selection and basic stitches. the means to make their own. Ser- giving diagrams for different neck and . Enter Vickie Howell’s latest Next is an exploration of ; viss gives the hat-hungry a smor- shapes, hoods and sleeve lengths, book, devoted to finger knitting, the crocheted motifs (squares, circles, gasbord of 31 designs to pick from, then presenting options for mixing craft of using yarn wrapped around fin- pineapple and more); joining motifs; basics like a slouchy stockinette up yarn and stitch patterns to create gers to create knitted I-cords. Howell Irish crochet; crochet techniques number with garter ridges and more different looks.

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YARN FORWARD SweetGeorgia Yarns CashLuxe Spark Specs: Dozens of colorways; 80% superwash merino/10% cashmere/10% Spark; 420yds/115g Gauge: Approx 30 sts = 4" (10cm) on size 1 (2.25mm) needles Distinctions: CashLuxe Spark is a glittery new addition to SweetGeorgia’s popular CashLuxe line. Soft and with a hint of sparkle, it’s special enough for night-on-the-town garments and comfy enough for everyday wear.

> Projects: The soft drape, rich colors and threads of glitter make this yarn for a shawl or wrap.

Prism Yarn Radiant Petite Madison Layers Specs: More than a dozen colorways; 73% merino/ 7% cashmere/10% /10% Spk; 372yds/100g Gauge: Approx 26 sts = 4" (10cm) on size 3 (3.25mm) needles Distinctions: Radiant Petite Madison, a single-ply stunner, is the sparkly baby sister in Prism’s popular Madison line. Prism’s unique “layers” dyeing tech- nique means that color is dyed over color so skeins > have subtle variegation that doesn’t pool or stripe. Projects: Choose multiple colors and show them off in a patterned or striped shawl. All that Glitters By Holly Ruck Crystal Palace Yarns Gold Rush Specs: 7 colorways; 59% cotton/20% wool/13% nylon/ 8% metallic; 85yds/50g To celebrate fall’s Gauge: Approx 14 sts = 4" (10cm) on size 10 (6mm) needles Distinctions: Gold Rush’s bulky strands combine a cotton impending holiday core and wool overlay. As you knit, the soft black or white core season, we lets strands of gold peek through the self-striping color. The outcome is vibrant color that catches the light. look at yarns that Projects: Hats, shawls, fingerless mitts and cowls will show- offer shimmer and case the sparkle and variegated colors of Gold Rush, but why sparkle. not consider a lustrous sweater as well? < <

Trendsetter Yarns Firefly Specs: 9 colors; 38% polyamide/21% acrylic/19% alpaca/14% /8% merino; 165yds/50g Gauge: Approx 14 sts = 4" (10cm) on size 9 (5.5mm) needles Distinctions: Sturdy and bouncy, Firefly feels built to last. The rich hues in this line pair well together, so consider it for colorwork. Projects: At 165 yards per skein, Firefly is just right for one-skein knit or crochet projects.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS TULLIS

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Knit Cast Away Specs: 6 sparkle and 12 regular colorways; 68% wool/19% mohair/10% silk/3% polyester; 68yds/100g

Gauge: Approx 8 sts = 4" (10cm) on size

11 (8mm) needles > Distinctions: Each skein of Cast Away, woven together by artisans in India, can have as many as 10 colors. The fibers create a yarn that’s alternately thick and thin—and incredibly soft. The variegated thickness is the perfect show- case for the array of colors in each skein. Projects: Just right for keeping away the win- ter chill, Cast Away is perfect for hats, cowls, scarves, wraps and even mittens. >

Artyarns Silk HiKoo by Skacel Mohair Glitter > Simplicity Metallic Specs: Dozens of colorways; Specs: 6 colors; 53% super- 60% super-kid mohair/40% wash merino/27% acrylic/17% silk with ; 312yds/25g nylon/3% metallic; 117yds/50g Gauge: Varies; suggested Gauge: Approx 20 sts = 4" needle sizes of 3 (3.25mm) (10cm) on size 5 (3.75mm) through 5 (3.75mm) needles Distinctions: Light and Distinctions: HiKoo has the feathery with a well-blended softness and depth of your sparkle, Silk Mohair Glitter favorite well-loved sweater. feels plush and opulent. The The loose twist creates an mohair gives it just enough easy drape that’s evenly shot fuzzy texture to make it warm through with bright silver. The and inviting, while the silk fact that it’s machine-washable adds a gentle luster. is a bonus for this fun, afford- Projects: Use this for drapey able yarn. lace tops and shawls. Projects: The soft texture is

just asking to be stitched into

slouchy hats, comfy scarves > and projects for little ones.

Universal Yarn Universe Specs: 10 colorways; 42% Cascade Yarns /41% combed cotton/ Venezia Glamour 9% glitter/8% polyamide; Specs: 6 colors; 65% merino 246yds/50g wool/30% mulberry silk/ Gauge: Approx 28 sts 8 5% polyester; 96yds/100g = 4" (10cm) on size 2 Gauge: Approx 13 sts = 4" (2.75mm) needles (10cm) on size 10 (6mm) or Distinctions: Universal 11 (8mm) needles Yarn celebrates 10 Distinctions: Venezia years with this new Glamour, a shimmery bulky, yarn, which feels like knits up quickly on the recom- a party and looks mended size 10 or 11 nee- like a glittery night sky. dles (6 or 8 mm), making it The thread-like quality of perfect for weekend projects. Universe is both delicate and The silver strands offer a bit sturdy. Be sure to firmly block of extra texture and mesh your finished piece to showcase well with shiny mulberry silk. the loveliness of this unique yarn. Projects: Thick hats, fingerless Projects: Use Universe for lacy mitts, and long, wrapping pullovers, shawls, cowls or even cowls will be on-trend with as a carry-along yarn. Crocheters Venezia’s sparkle. > will love its firm twist.

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THE NATIONAL NEEDLEARTS ASSOCIATION BY PATTY PARRISH, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Fresh, Fabulous and Forty!

NNA celebrated a major milestone at the Quest. All of these programs are huge ben- exponentially over the past two events, is our the summer show in Columbus in May: efits to our members and our organization. Immediate Delivery option, similar to “cash Our needlearts trade organization At our summer show, we always host an and carry.” Exhibitors are allowed to sell prod- turnedT 40. As I walked the convention center awards presentation for The Excellence in ucts at wholesale directly to retailers at our hall and showroom, I began to list in my head Needlearts (TEN) and the Business shows. Currently, 51 percent of exhibitors are all of the amazing shows, events and con- Award. The TEN Award is given to a person selling product at our show, which is a 27 per- sumer programs TNNA has been a part of in who has been an active member of TNNA. cent increase since we started the program at that time. I quickly lost count. I am so proud of This year’s recipient, Frederikka Payne, owner our Phoenix show in January. Exhibitors are what the members and this organization have of Aurora Yarns, was honored especially for her able to get their new products in the hands of been able to accomplish over the years. work with Maker Faire. She has volunteered retailers immediately—a huge benefit to both Our TNNA board, retail council, product seg- as the coordinator of our successful consumer retailers and exhibitors. ment groups and member sections are staffed outreach program at these events, which has Thank you to our members who have entirely with volunteers who make things happen taught more than 20,000 people how to knit, supported TNNA through the years. I’d like to not only at the shows but during the months crochet, cross-stitch, needlepoint, spin and encourage those who are a part of this won- in between. It is incredible what can happen weave. This year’s yarn Business derful needlearts community but not a TNNA when an organization of dedicated people with Awards winners were TNNA wholesale mem- member to join our organization. Membership a passion for what they do are put to task. ber Soak and TNNA retailer member & affords you the chance to participate in our The evolution of TNNA is impressive— Purl’s Creative Nook and Knittery. [Their win- amazing shows. Join our organization and everything from consumer-outreach programs ning company profiles, with details about their enjoy the next 40 years with us. Show date like Stitch to Win, Stitch N’ Pitch, The Needle- award-winning programs, will be featured in reminder: Winter show, January 9–11, arts Zone and Maker Faire to show initiatives the January 2016 issue of Yarn Market News.] 2016, San Diego. Summer show, June 11– like Building Better Business, Sample IT! and A new twist to the show, which has grown 13, 2016, Washington, D.C.

TNNA, founded in 1974, is a professional organization representing wholesalers, manufacturers, distributors, designers, publishers and other companies supporting the needlearts industry. For more information, visit www.tnna.org or call (800) 889-8662. YMN1015-TNNA.indd 1 8/28/15 12:02 PM 22_YMSO15YarnGroup.FINAL:Layout 1 9/8/15 10:45 AM Page 22

YARN GROUP STEPHANIESTEINHAUS,CHAIR Continuing to Build

NNA’s Yarn Group has accomplished a that our supply chain includes consumers; the show floor. lot in the past year. We made it our mis- without them, revenue doesn’t flow through • Help create webinars and other virtual edu- sion to build on the success of TNNA our businesses. Retailers can’t grow and benefit cation opportunities. T President Beth Casey’s tenure and from TNNA if they don’t have the revenue I often hear, “Why should I join Yarn Group?” bring ideas from the strategic plan to life. We’ve to get to the show. Exhibitors can’t bring more I will admit that in my first five years in this in- increased membership, developed strategic pro- exciting products to market without revenue dustry, I wondered as well. But then it occurred grams to make TNNA trade shows a more mean- from retailers. Our industry’s cycle travels from to me: Yarn Group is not AAA. I shouldn’t be ingful experience for both buyers and exhibitors, consumer to retailer to designers and educators expecting 24-hour roadside assistance for my and brought new leadership to the Yarn Group through to exhibitors. To leave one group out $50 membership fee. Yarn Group membership is executive committee and TNNA board. of our thinking is to weaken the entire chain. an investment in the successful growth of the The highly regarded Building Better Business As Yarn Group continues its work, we will industry in which I make my living. Our increas- Seminar was the direct result of the Yarn Group be looking for bright, serious volunteers to help ing Yarn Group membership allows us to build Strategic Planning process: Members expressed with some of the tough and rewarding work a better show, make better businesspeople of a desire for business-enhancing classes, so a to follow. We’re looking for volunteers to work our colleagues, create more consumers for our committee of powerhouse educators was formed with our cochairpersons to: products. And there’s the $800 in products that to bring the program to life. Also, nearly 200 • Grow Yarn Group membership and grow retailers can from the Quest and the people participated in the Quest at the Columbus show attendance as part of the Membership potential 200 new business contacts exhibitors trade show, and those who visited all the Quest Committee. can meet along the way. Those are some pretty exhibitor booths received more than $800 in • Create and staff show initiatives like the tangible benefits—though not the only ones. treasures, from skeins of yarn to project kits. Lounge, Café, Quest and Show as Yarn Group will never be “done.” We have Now we must move on to marketing yarn to part of the Trade Show Initiatives Committee. so much we can accomplish together. If consumers. It’s time to create and implement a • Create social media campaigns and a you’d like to be involved, send me an email strategy to bring more consumers to Yarn Group website as part of the Marketing Committee. at [email protected]. I’m looking for- member products. As a retailer myself, I know • Serve as much-needed worker bees on ward to working with you. 023_YMSO15SpinWeave.FINAL:Layout 1 9/2/15 11:00 AM Page 23

SPINNING & WEAVING GROUP

BYCHERYLNACHTRIEB,CHAIR Joy Is What We Do

haring joy is written right into the and donated nearly $20,000 to TNNA’s Needle- weaving teachers for free until December 2017, mission of The Spinning and Weaving arts Mentoring Program, a program that also at which point you must be a TNNA member S Group. We believe that if we share supports SWG’s educational goals. Spinzilla would and a member of SWG to maintain your listing. our passion for the crafts, others will grab onto not be possible without the dedication of the If you are interested in being added to the list, that joy, and our marketplace will thrive. SWG Spinzilla committee: Liz Gipson (Yarnworker), visit www.spinweave.org/teachers-directory; is a product segment group of The National Liz Good (Spinner-at-Large), Constance Hall click on “submit a listing,” fill out the form, NeedleArts Association. We advocate for the (Dyeology), Andrea Marquis (Yarn Superhero) include two references, and submit your listing crafts of spinning and weaving within the larger and Rita Petteys (Yarn Hollow). To learn more for review. SWG is actively promoting this list yarn market. Formed in 2002 as the Spinning about this event and to keep up with the 2015 and working with the larger TNNA organization and Weaving Association, the group merged with happenings, visit www.spinzilla.org. to elevate the profile of educators and other TNNA four years ago under the leadership of The second initiative—to establish a Spinning service providers in the industry. Dave van Stralen of Louet. Since that time, the and Weaving Teachers Directory that elevates I urge you to become a member of SWG. organization has realized two long-term goals. the visibility of teachers within these crafts— The more members we have, the stronger our The first was to create a consumer event that was realized under the guidance of Jane Patrick collective voice. SWG provides a forum for those would bring more people to the craft. Spinzilla of Schacht Company. The biggest who want to learn more about spinning and was born in 2013 as a fresh consumer event barrier shops face in bringing in or expanding weaving products and services or those who whose goal is to drive traffic to member busi- their offerings of spinning and weaving products have a newly formed business and want to nesses. It allows spinners of any level, from is finding qualified teachers or promoting the connect with wholesalers, retailers and service anywhere in the world, to participate in a friend- teachers they already have. Many conferences providers who specialize in this area. Together ly competition to see who can spin the most want to add spinning and weaving to their we can grow. To learn more about the Spinning yarn in a week. Since its inception, spinners lineups but don’t know where to begin. This and Weaving Group's Mission, the Teachers have spun more than five million yards of yarn registry is open to all qualified spinning and Directory or Spinzilla, visit www.spinweave.org.

The goal of the Spinning & Weaving Group is to ensure a vibrant marketplace by promoting the joys of handspinning and weaving. Learn more at www.tnna.org/page/SWGHome. 024_YMSO15CYC.FINAL:Layout 1 8/31/15 2:31 PM Page 24

CRAFT YARN COUNCIL BYMARYCOLUCCI,EXECUTIVEDIRECTOR When Life Gives Yo u Lemons...

’ve written before about Craft Yarn Council’s learn more about their stress-reducing and When we asked for her help, she came back Changing Global Health One Stitch at a mood-boosting effects. We also sponsored to us with the phrase “When life gives you I Time initiative, which we started in 2013 to several giveaways. lemons…” The many layers of the reference educate the world about the health benefits of Our posts shared data from CYC’s consumer were a perfect fit. Squeeze a stress ball to knitting and crochet. research, including the fact that of the 3,100-plus reduce stress, squeeze a lemon to yield lemon- We began by aggregating existing research crocheters and knitters who participated, 85 ade—so why not stitch that lemon to begin and compiling interviews with hundreds of percent reported that these crafts reduced stress with? Chan contributed patterns for lemons in needleworkers. We published articles, press and 68 percent said they improved their mood. both knit and crochet, and she also completed releases and a video. As a result, we’ve counted We also created images suggesting ideal times a how-to-crochet video to go with the lemon. more than 200 placements in mainstream media to pick up these crafts, such as when you are The posts, the project, the images and a about the benefits of these crafts and more than with friends, home watching TV or on your lunch video netted big returns for our initiative. Our 70 placements among industry publishers and hour at work. With every post, we engaged our Facebook “likes” jumped 12 percent, to bloggers. Conservatively, our message has audience in comments and with calls to action. 12,704; followers grew from 40 to reached more than three million consumers. We made a special video about the de-stressing 770; and YouTube subscribers to CYC’s channel Because so much of our research shows benefits of knitting, interviewing avid knitters increased 27 percent, with more than 4,300 that participating in knitting and crocheting is a who have felt the benefits firsthand. But the most views of the stress video alone. and stress-relieving endeavor, we introduced the fun component was the Lemon Stress Ball Pinterest followers also increased. CYC plans second phase of our initiative, #StitchAwayStress, designed by Twinkie Chan. to continue its health/wellness campaign to via social media in April, which is National As you may know, Chan is a master at trans- broaden the reach of the industry and engage Stress Awareness Month. Throughout the lating food items into crochet. (Her whimsical new consumers. Find out more about our month on our Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest designs include ice pops, carrot sticks, cupcakes, ongoing efforts at craftyarncouncil.com/health and Twitter pages, we posted fun and unique pizza and more.) But she hit on a bit of by and join the conversation on our Facebook ways to use these crafts to unwind and to combining the idea of stress balls with lemons. page, facebook/craftyarn council.

The Craft Yarn Council was formed in 1981 to raise awareness about fibers. Visit craftyarncouncil.com or knitandcrochet.com for more information. 025_YMSO15Ravelry.FINAL:Layout 1 9/1/15 11:43 AM Page 25

RAVELRY BY MARY- BROWNE, VP OF OPERATIONS AND DO-GOODER Bundled Up

avelry’s new Bundles feature offers from your group’s Bundles tab. Ravelers are tured to build excitement. a new way for our users to organize making Bundles to organize patterns and Promote Your Classes: Bundle together proj- R their Ravelry pages. It allows you to projects in their favorites by category or theme, ects and patterns for an upcoming class, along create organized groupings of anything you can create groupings of pure inspiration and even with the recommended yarns for students to add to your favorites on Ravelry: patterns, proj- as wish lists. Shop owners can do all that and purchase. ects, yarns, stashed items, forum posts, ads more. A few shop-specific ideas for Ravelry Knit- or Crochet-Alongs: Since you can add and more. You can create bundles for your per- Bundles include: projects, yarns and patterns to the same Bundle, sonal Ravelry , your Ravelry group or (if Customer Project Gallery: Create an online the feature can be a great way to show off you are a designer) on your designer page. We showcase to highlight your customers’ Ravelry customer creations made during a shop knit- or are developing ways to discover and highlight projects and show off the beautiful things being crochet-along. Group the featured patterns Bundles created by users throughout the site. made in your shop. together with the yarns they purchased from As with all Ravelry features, yarn store own- Showcase Shop Exclusives: Use Bundles as you and the finished participant projects. ers are using Bundles to share what is happen- an online catalog, grouping together patterns or All of these shop-centric Bundle options ing in their shops with the communities they’ve yarn colorways that were designed exclusively work equally well created through the Bundles cultivated online. You can set up a Bundle for for your store. tab of your Ravelry group or as a personal your shop in your shop’s group (just click on the Highlight Shop Samples: Virtually share your Bundle in the favorites section of your shop “create bundles” button on the Bundles tab shop’s samples with a Bundle that includes account, so feel free to set them up using on your main group page) or on your shop’s the pattern and yarn you used for the sample whichever option works best for your shop. Ravelry profile by adding an item to your Ravelry together with the Ravelry project for the fin- We hope you love using the Bundles feature favorites and then clicking on the option to ished object. to organize and showcase all kind of special create a Bundle from there. You can also select Trunk Shows, Events and Sales: If you’ll be groupings of yarny goodness. If you have or update Bundles later and change the cover hosting a trunk show or special sales event, questions or suggestions, please let us know image by editing them inside your favorites or bundle the patterns as well as the yarns fea- in the For the Love of Ravelry forum.

For more information about In-Store Pattern Sales and other Ravelry services for local yarn shops, please visit ravelry.com/yarnshops. 026_YMSO15SmtOnline.FINAL:Layout 1 8/31/15 2:38 PM Page 26

SMART ONLINE

Screen Time BYTARASWIGER

Ways to incorporate social best for his shop: “We definitely hear from our reg- your posts. For Barbra Pushies, “Social media ulars about Facebook, and we get messages at is important to our business, so I make it the first media into your days. least once a month asking questions. Tourists also thing I do every day.” You can use software to onnecting with clients on social media tell us they saw us on Facebook, so we know it’s a schedule your posts throughout the week [see strengthens the loyalty of current custo- useful tool.” Choose the tools that highlight what sidebar], so you only need to spend time thinking mers and introduces your shop to new your business does best. If you’ve got gorgeous of new content once or twice a week. I like to do C new products coming in, show them off with Insta- this Monday morning, after I make my plan for ones, and doing so can be easy, fast and fun. Ac- cording to the Pew Research Center, 76 percent gram. If you host weekly events, advertise them the week, but you can plan to do it during any tradi- of women use social media regularly and 52 per- on your Facebook page, which will allow your cus- tionally slow time. You can also schedule messages cent of adults use more than one social media tool. tomers to RSVP (and invite their friends). Consider as soon as you plan an event. When you finalize So your customers are out there, waiting to hear using Twitter for interactions with customers. your class calendar for the month, load tweets and from you. But how do you find the time for it? Next, plan for how often you’ll use each tool. Facebook posts to roll out from now until the class The solution is to keep it simple: Make a plan Will you post a new picture to Instagram once a takes place. The important thing is to give this a for how and when you’ll use social media, sched- day and share something on your Facebook wall place on your calendar, so it’s sure to get done and ule it into your workday, and make sharing a part twice a day? When will you add upcoming events? you’re not rushing around at the last minute. of your normal workflow. How often will you share a new blog post or news- Remember to schedule time for replying to any letter? Create a schedule for yourself. comments your followers leave. You may not have Make a Plan Now that you’ve decided which tools to use time for every reply, especially as your audience First of all, determine which social media tools and how many posts you’ll make in a week, think grows, but you should answer every relevant ques- you’ll use, how often you’ll use them, and the kind through what you’ll share. Always keep your cus- tion about your shop. If someone wants to know of content you’ll be sharing. Barbra Pushies of the tomers in mind. What do they want to see? What when you’re open or if you carry a specific yarn, Yarnover Truck in southern California decided to kinds of stories, pictures and links will interest your social media tool is serving as customer sup- schedule posts because “having things pre-sched- them? You don’t have to generate all of the content port. You wouldn’t leave someone hanging on the uled saves me a ton of time and lets me focus on out of your own head. Share your customers’ phone for an hour, so don’t make them wait too other things.” Making these decisions ahead of pictures and projects, link to stories you’ve found long to get a response on social media. Schedule a few times throughout the day to check for Tools to help you schedule your social media posts questions and answer them. Make It Part of Your Flow Buffer: An app and a browser plug-in, this tool lets you compose a quick social media One easy way to make time for social media is message from any page you want to share, quickly. It integrates with iPhones and to use the tools as you’re going about your daily iPads, so you can send to Buffer as easily as you send a page to email. work. When you get a new shipment of yarn, snap CoSchedule: A Wordpress plug-in that shows up at the bottom of your blog post a picture and post it immediately. When a cus- editing screen, so that you schedule social media posts about your blog post. Be sure tomer comes in with a newly finished project, ask to schedule more than one. her if you can take a picture to share (include her Edgar: A tool that lets you schedule posts more than once. You can create a queue username as well). When a class begins (and that will re-share content at different times—allowing those who may have missed it ends), take a photo of the students and ask them earlier in the day to still see it. Barbra Pushies recommends this tool: “Edgar has to share their own pictures as well. These off- been a lifesaver for scheduling out posts.” the-cuff posts can fit around your scheduled, pre- Latergram.me: An app that sets reminders to post Instagram posts you’ve already planned content. By combining the two, you’ll created. (It will not post them for you.) know your pre-scheduled content still has you ScheduGram: A web-based service that allows you to upload pictures, filter them, covered if you get very busy, but you get the ben- create posts and then schedule those posts. efit of sharing things in real time—and perhaps ViralTag: A service that integrates with many storage solutions (Dropbox, Google pull in a few customers who want to check out Drive) to schedule Pinterest post. that just-opened shipment of yarn. With a schedule and a plan for incorporating social media into your daily workflow, connecting time will save you the stress of not knowing what online, and post news from your suppliers or other with your customers online will become one of to do and will ensure that you stay consistent. local businesses. Remember that your role on social the best parts of your day. You don’t need to use every social media tool media isn’t just to post ; it’s also to connect currently available. Instead, choose one or two that with your customers. Re-share their posts, leave Tara Swiger is the author of Market Yourself, a system for your customers are using the most. Not sure? Ask comments and introduce them to each other. And creating a marketing plan for your creative business. Get them. Rik Schell of Purl’s Yarn Emporium in Ashe- don’t forget to reply to their questions. a free Resource Guide with more great scheduling tools ville, North Carolina, discovered Facebook works The final step is to schedule a time for writing plus tips when you sign up at TaraSwiger.com.

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SMART MERCHANDISING Curate, Don’t Overstimulate BYHEATHERGOOCH

ake a hard look at your aisles, end caps and display tables. Have you crammed Stocking smart will help keep clutter in check. in too much stock? Does the store look messy on days that see heavy traffic? Or is still clear to walk through.’” shop reorganizations since I’ve opened, but each does the opposite end of the spectrum “One thing I notice,” Hart says, “is that if yarn time it feels as though I’m improving the space.” apply?T Are vignettes so artfully (and perhaps starts to look disheveled—a hank of yarn becomes sparsely) displayed that customers are afraid to untwisted or a ball has become a sloppy mess— An Ongoing Process touch anything? it is much less likely to sell. Even if I were to take Pat Kirtland teases that the local fire department Yarn shop customers are creative, visual and that ball and rewind it, and even if it were on clear- has a way of keeping the store layout on the tactile. As The National NeedleArts Association’s ance, it will not sell unless someone needs that straight and narrow, what with their habit of mak- most recent industry survey advises, it’s impor- last ball to match her project. Customers like their ing impromptu inspections and requiring 30- tant to “prepare a feast for their eyes” when yarn to be new, even at a bargain price.” inch-wide aisles. To maximize the space of shop, merchandising your shop. Kirtland ensures her shop is always clean, but housed in a 225-year-old building, she goes verti- she admits that on any given weekday, there might cal with her displays. “I have tall ceilings, and I Know Thy Customer be a box or two of new yarn on the floor waiting place the models around the top of the shelving,” Pat Kirtland, owner of the Yarn Barn in Anderson- to be unpacked. “The comments I get from my in- she says. “I took out the top row of the original ville, Virginia, has been a yarn-shop owner for more person customers are that they feel more at home,” shelving so that neither I nor a customer has to than 45 years. An Ohio native whose original store she says. “I even encourage children to handle climb to get to the yarn.” was located in a tight-knit rural community, she built a reputation for running a place that was likely to have everything her customers wanted and little Five Steps to Paring Down SKUs that they didn’t. “In Ohio, I knew all of my custo- On his blog, Bob “The Retail Doctor” Phipps details a five-step process for streamlining mers and their knitting styles,” she says. your Stock Keeping Unit inventory and thus adding profitability back into your shop: In fact, Kirtland says, any underperforming Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) in her first shop was 1. Look at your inventory categories’ sales figures, by month and by year-to-date. likely the result of purchasing a product she 2. Within each category, look at the bottom 20 percent. liked personally, without taking the tastes of 3. Cancel all orders to replenish the bottom 20 percent. her core customers into account. “I didn’t care 4. Come up with a sale (or perhaps a kit, workshop, sample or class) to clear them out. whether it sold, as it was mine, all mine,” she 5. Use the money saved on not reordering to add to your Top 2 categories of merchandise. quips. “And if it didn’t sell, I made a sample from it to boost yarn sales.” Source: RetailDoc.com/blog/skus Kirtland relocated to Virginia in 1997, where she’s found bricks-and-mortar yarn-shop owner- ship to be an altogether different experience. Her main competition here is Wal-Mart, whose yarn the yarn, as they are our future customers.” Hart notes that at her shop, the checkout offerings are displayed on one side of one aisle. And when Kirtland feels a tug of guilt over the clut- counter can quickly become a catchall if it’s not Kirtland gets a kick out of seeing the looks on the ter, she says it’s important to remind herself that kept after on a regular basis. “It’s like coming faces of first-time customers, many of whom every box eventually will be put away. home at the end of the day and throwing your are not used to seeing so much fiber in one place. mail on the counter—the space just asks for A feast for their eyes, indeed. Review and Rework clutter,” she says. “I don’t think I’ll ever have a completely Every time she’s expanded the space in the In addition to daily tidying, Hart says keeping clutter-free store, because my brain just doesn’t two-and-a-half years she’s owned Warm ’n Fuzzy, the store looking fresh is key: “Has that mannequin work that way,” she admits. “But on the other Rebecca Hart has taken the opportunity to tidy or that shelving unit been in the same place for hand, I personally think I’ve survived this long up, rearrange and review her shop layout. “I ab- years? Are you running out of space in one section because we are not a pristine store. People tell solutely love doing this,” she says. “I've added of the shop but have empty shelves in another? me all the time about being in stores where bookcases, rearranged them, squished or con- Does your shop have an overall organization?” they’re afraid someone will smack their hands if densed yarn to make more space, and used bas- Kirtland agrees, noting that each store needs they touch anything.” kets, pegboards, wall space, etc., to find more to define its own personality: “We are all different, In Cary, North Carolina, Rebecca Hart, owner and more room—all while trying to keep clutter and it’s rather boring to go into stores that are all of Warm ’n Fuzzy yarn shop, has gotten quite a to a minimum.” laid out the same way. Isn’t it more fun to discover different response to her shop, in which she Every time Hart gets a new order in, she re- something new when you turn the corner?” aims to accumulate as little clutter as possible: arranges the cubbies so that all of the yarn can be “Customers regularly say to me, ‘Wow, you've attractively displayed together. “Sometimes it Heather Gooch is a Cleveland–based writer. She focuses gotten so much more stock in, but the space feels like Tetris,” she jokes. “I've done a few major on the needlearts industry at her site, PositiveYarn.com.

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SMART LEGAL Don’t Borrow Trouble A primer on commercial lending. BYTOMSPERANZA

ost businesses need to borrow loans is that use of the loan proceeds (new equip- wildly from bank to bank, and without studying money from a commercial lender ment, store or plant upgrades) will benefit the them carefully (or engaging a lawyer) you may from time to time. It may be borrower for a longer period of time, so it makes be overlooking unfavorable terms or passing by M tempting to whip out a credit card sense to spread out the repayment period over the chance to get a better deal. Even if the bank to meet your need for capital, but before you do, a longer period. refuses to change its terms, you should only sign consider the pros and cons of bank financing. loan documents if you fully understand what’s Collateral Damage included in them and make sure you comply with Go With the Flow The main difference between a credit card and a all the terms during the course of the loan. While certain operating expenses like rent, pay- bank loan is collateral. You grant the lender a secu- roll and utilities come due every month, cash rity interest in an asset (the collateral) that the bank flow, particularly in the yarn industry, is highly vari- can foreclose on and then sell if you fail to repay Keep an eye out for the common traps con- able—most of the yarn for cold-weather knitting the loan. Outside a business setting, the collateral tained in “standard” bank loan documents, must be ordered in summer, when customer usually is part of the overall transaction—a car loan such as: traffic is generally lowest. A bank-issued line of is secured by the car itself, for example. In theory, credit can enable you to more easily manage the a commercial loan or line of credit can be secured No right to notice of default or cure periods. seasonality of sales by letting you borrow funds exclusively by your business assets (store fixtures, If you commit a default under your loan when sales are slow and repay the outstanding plant equipment, inventory, accounts receivable), documents, you will want a requirement balance using the cash generated from the peri- but banks will often find such assets insufficient. that the bank give you notice and an oppor- ods when yarn is flying out the door. Instead, banks will typically ask a small business tunity to cure the default. Many form loan A typical line of credit is a revolving loan, similar owner to personally guarantee repayment of the documents omit these provisions. in structure to a credit card: The borrower is given loan and to provide security for the guarantee in a maximum amount that can be borrowed, repaid another form—usually a mortgage on the owner’s Unreasonable reporting requirements. and then reborrowed. Bank lines of credit are house. For a bank to approve a commercial loan Most loan documents require periodic pro- typically for an initial term of one year and will be with a personal residence as collateral, you’ll need duction of business and personal financial renewed annually by your bank, assuming your sufficient equity in your house. It’s possible to use statements to keep the bank informed, business continues to thrive. Often a commercial other assets that you own as collateral for a bank but an obligation that financial statements line of credit will be required to be fully repaid loan, like a 401K account, a brokerage account that be audited by an accounting firm may be (“zeroed-out” in banker speak) for at least a brief includes stock investments, or a life pol- overkill for a small business. period of time during each annual term. icy with significant current cash value. Lines of credit usually have a floating interest Vague events of default and/or unfair rights rate that’s tied to some external benchmark rate— Loan Document Pitfalls to terminate (and call) the loan. for example, the prime rate plus 3 percent. The Once you reach a deal with your banker on the Beware of banks reserving the right to de- exact rate will depend on the bank’s assessment basic terms, the bank will produce a commitment clare a default or call the loan if “the bank of risk, determined by the financial condition of letter or term sheet outlining those terms and deems itself insecure” or “changes in law your business and the quality of the collateral. the various closing conditions. Common closing or federal reserve regulations” increase the conditions include a list of specific loan docu- cost of the loan to the bank. Coming to Terms ments, title and lien searches confirming that you Significant one-time purchases, or capital expen- actually own the collateral being offered, title Broad rights of the bank to interfere with ditures—acquiring a POS system, updating insurance if a mortgage is involved, and business the operations of the business even without , renovating your sales floor, expanding and/or personal financial statements. an event of default. your space to increase overall sales—are usually For a small business loan, banks often use pre- Loan documents provide that the bank has difficult to finance from normal cash flow. An printed forms. Make sure to read these documents the right to step in to make certain deci- otherwise healthy business that wants to kick-start carefully before you sign them. Commercial loan sions about the borrower’s business if the its growth may turn to a bank for what is called documents are not written in plain English, the way loan is in default (e.g., collect and negotiate a “capex loan.” Unlike lines of credit, which are a standard car loan is, and the consumer protections accounts receivable; determine how pro- usually granted and renewed on an annual basis created by state and federal laws for house and ceeds of an insurance claim are to be used). and require only monthly payments of interest car loans do not apply. Your banker may suggest Beware of provisions that permit the bank before they expire, loans for capital expenditures that you don’t really need a lawyer because the to get involved even prior to an event of are typically structured more traditionally, as a term documents are “standard” or that the bank will re- default. loan (over, say, three to seven years) with a fixed, fuse to negotiate their provisions in any significant not floating, interest rate and required monthly way. Although all commercial loan documents have Tom Speranza practices corporate and intellectual payments of principal. The theory behind capex certain common elements, their terms can vary property law in Philadelphia.

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NEW YORK SAVETHE DATE!

JANUARY 15–17, 2016 NEWYORKMARRIOTTMARQUIS

KNIT-COUTURE FASHION SHOWS MORE THAN 150 CLASSES & LECTURES INSPIRING KNIT 20+ HOURS OF BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 032_YMSO15RetailProfile.FINAL:Layout 1 9/1/15 1:50 PM Page 32

RETAIL PROFILE Celebrating BY DARYL BROWER 10 Ye a rs LOOPS

Shelly Brander believes that the busier you are, the more you should knit. And Brander knows busy. For the past 10 years, she’s been at the helm of Loops, a fabulously fashion-forward yarn shop instantly recognizable look, from the exterior keeps them coming in. It has a healthy list and a signage and the streamlined displays of fiber and high open rate, which Brander attributes to careful in Tulsa, Oklahoma, while patterns to the website and the shop’s car, a curation of hot projects and yarns, tie-ins to store simultaneously juggling Mini Cooper completely covered in a stockinette- trends and runway looks, and interviews with three kids (all of whom were stitch decal. Obviously she learned the rest of designers. The style is light and engaging, and, the business well: Six years into the venture she like the shop’s blog, visually appealing. “It makes under the age of 5 when opened a second shop, hoping to entice knitters readers feel a part of something,” she says of she started the shop), two from the other side of town. “At the time, the the newsletter. She’s equally committed to giving dogs and a successful ad city was split in two by construction,” she says. knitters who can’t make it to the shop the same But running two stores was challenging—even personalized experience. The Loops Club, a agency, Branders, Inc. for someone as driven as Brander. Last Septem- monthly knit-along, mails members an original “Knitting is what keeps me ber she consolidated the dual shops into one, knitting kit each month and gives them access to opening in a bigger, better space. “We’re in our Loops instructors and in-store support by way sane,” she says. forever home now,” she says. of email, Instagram, a private Ravelry page and Inside, it’s easy to see why Brander wants more. Five hundred knitters signed up for the rander picked up her first pair to stay put. The space is stunning: open and airy, first club; a second is now in the works. of needles at 16 and fell totally and with inviting seating and artfully arranged collec- Other yarn shops have come and gone since instantly in love with the knitting tions of yarn and sample garments. A huge chan- Loops first opened in 2005. It’s not something process. The patterns and yarn se- delier adds an upscale note, and the Hot Loops Brander worries about. “I used to watch what lections at the shops, however, left wall—a row of yarn-filled cubbies topped with other shops were doing, but now I think collabor- her uninspired. “They were just kind photos and sample garments—puts the on-trend, ation is better. Stores need to support each other,” Bof meh—itchy wools and acrylic baby blankets,” effortless projects Loops customers crave front she says. “Whether it’s [happening] across town she says. Still, she kept it up, knitting away as and center. “The pattern and all you need to make or across the country, teaching new people to she launched a career in advertising, learning the it are in one spot, so you can walk in and find your knit is good for me. Those new knitters are even- of copywriting, marketing, producing and project quickly,” Brander explains. tually going to find us.” branding, eventually opening Branders with her Looks aren’t everything, of course. Brander And, thanks to Loops, Brander has finally found husband. She was still knitting and still having believes that walking into the store should be the those knitwear designs she craved as a teen. “Our trouble finding something she really wanted to best part of her customers’ day, and she works customers, our staff—we all inspire each other,” make when she got what she calls a “crazy hair.” hard to facilitate that. “I tell customers, ‘It’s your she says. “It’s so affirming.” “I decided to open a yarn shop,” she says. awesome time,’” she says. And awesome it is. So Brander wrote a business plan and set There’s the yarn, “delicious” fibers from Blue out to find a space. She found one, in a high-end Heron, Mrs. Crosby, Mirasol and more; original Loops QUICK designs created by her staff of 18, skilled and per- GLANCE shopping center. She thought Loops would be a 6034 South Yale Avenue sonable professionals whom Brander refers to as perfect fit; the shopping center’s owner did not. Tulsa, Oklahoma 74135 her Loops Troops; and a healthy roster of classes. “He kept saying no,” Brander recalls. So she www.loopsknitting.com made him a cashmere scarf, delivering it to his The latter is extensive, and Brander revamps the Years in business: 10 townhouse on Christmas Eve. “The day after offerings monthly. She’s also lowered the class Square footage: 3,000 New Year’s, I had a lease,” she says, laughing. fee and made the structure more free-form, selling Staff: 18 But getting a storefront wasn’t her biggest punch cards so customers can drop in when the HOURS: problem. “I didn’t know anything about running urge hits them. “It’s not a moneymaker,” she says Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. a store,” she admits. “I learned on the .” of the instruction, “but it keeps the energy level Tuesday, Thursday:10 a.m.–8 p.m. What she did know was branding. “That’s up, keeps customers excited about making things Saturday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. something we did well from the beginning,” she and keeps them coming to the store.” Closed Sunday says. The store has a sleek, sophisticated and Loops Scoop, the store’s e-newsletter, also

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COMPANY PROFILE Celebrating 10 ChiaoGoo Ye a rs

Needles for the “highly skillful and crafty.” By MARYAM SIDDIQI

t comes as no surprise to ChiaoGoo that there’s company launched its products. Aside from the Address: 2160 Orpington Drive, some confusion about the pronunciation environmental features—bamboo is a hardy, re- Troy, Michigan 48083 of the company’s name. For the record, say newable natural resource—the needles appeal Employees: 4 “chow-goo” and you’ve essentially got it right. particularly to novice knitters because, as Mulcahy Fun Fact: When Leon Zheng and I Wendy Zhang founded the company “People murder the name all the time, but the explains, “they’re not as slippery, so you don’t more we teach them how to say it, the more it have stitches dropping off the needles. And some in 2005, they were working out of the will catch on,” says Juliana Mulcahy, ChiaoGoo’s people enjoy knitting with bamboo more because basement of their house. “They had sales manager. “It means ‘highly skillful and crafty they’re not as cold as metal.” Plus, she adds, boxes full of knitting needles; their lady’ in Chinese,” she explains—an homage to “They don’t make that metal noise, that click- warehouse was their garage,” Juliana founder Leon Zheng’s mother, the inspiration for clack, which can annoy people.” Mulcahy explains. Eventually, the this premium knitting and crochet tools com- Two years in, the company expanded its business took over the house, and the pany. “She was a knitter and gave him guidance offerings to include those noisy stainless-steel Zhengs bought another house to live about what the products should be like. She needles, though not without some trial and in. It was only in June 2013 that the was the needle tester,” Mulcahy says. error. “I’ll be honest,” Mulcahy admits. “Our company moved into an official com- Zheng grew up in , attended college at first line of stainless-steel circulars [didn’t meet mercial space. West Virginia University and completed a Ph.D. our specs] in terms of quality. But we have in mechanical , then went on to get greatly improved them, and our Red Lace cir- a job at General Motors. In other words, not a cular line is currently our bestseller.” depends on the yarn that’s popular at any given knitter. It was only when he and his wife, Wendy Sales of ChiaoGoo needles are now split evenly time,” she says. Zhang, decided to launch a side business that between bamboo and steel. “We sell directly to The company also offers a small line of spe- ChiaoGoo was born. “He talked with his brothers, both distributors and retailers around the world”— cialty needles with designs that are heat-trans- who are still in China, and they realized they had everywhere from Canada to Japan, Australia to ferred onto the bamboo so they won’t come off a natural resource in their backyard,” Mulcahy , Israel to Brazil. on yarn or clothing. “Those are just a few of the says. The Zheng family is based in Lin’an, the ChiaoGoo remains a lean operation: Aside from fun things we wanted to bring in, something to bamboo capital of China. They researched what the two founders and Mulcahy, the company has catch people’s eye,” Mulcahy explains. The “I they could do with the valuable resource so only one other employee, so it often relies on Love Knitting!” model—needles with cats motifs close at hand and, making the most of the Zheng customer inquiries to spur product development: and painted beads—is meant to inspire children matriarch’s knowledge, started to manufacture When someone asks if they have a particular to knit. “We thought, Who wouldn’t want to knit and sell bamboo needles. needle or if they’ve ever thought about carrying a with needles with polka-dot cats on them? But At the time of the company’s launch, in May model, the creative process begins. we’ve found that a lot of adults love knitting with 2005, two other major brands were selling bam- “We rely a lot on our knitting friends and our them as well,” Mulcahy says. representatives. They’re our source of knowledge And six years ago, ChiaoGoo created their in terms of product development,” Mulcahy says. Find the Cure single-point needles. “We were Once a decision is made, product evolution is an trying to think of something different do with a efficient process. “It’s easy for us to introduce needle, and it happened to be October—Breast a new product because we are in touch with our Cancer Awareness month. We wanted some- manager, Leon’s brother, often,” thing that was geared toward finding a cure, Mulcahy says. “It’s easy to communicate with because unfortunately everybody knows some- them. They know what we need, what we want. one who has or has dealt with breast cancer,” So we can add a new product fairly quickly—I Mulcahy says. The needles have a pink miracle think quicker than most.” on the cap; the company donates a per- In her eight years as sales manager, Mulcahy centage of those sales to the organization has seen certain trends go out of favor, only to Living Beyond Breast Cancer. cycle around again. Large single points are one ChiaGoo celebrates its tenth anniversary such example. “Eight or so years ago, chunky this year, and to commemorate the event, the boo needles in the United States. “But,” Mulcahy yarns were very popular, and needle manufac- company is hosting several giveaways on its says, “there were only two. And so the Zhengs turers were having a hard time keeping up with Facebook and Ravelry pages. It’s been a busy felt they had a chance to break into the market.” demand. Leon saw this as an opportunity,” she 10 years—so much so that Zheng has taken a With Leon’s brothers overseeing manufactur- says, making a variety of large-size single points leave of absence from GM and is working for ing in China, and Leon and Wendy taking on a available. Mulcahy notes that particular interest ChiaoGoo full-time now. “We have grown that sales role from their base in Troy, Michigan, the in those sizes is once again increasing. “It all much,” Mulcahy says.

34 YMN1015-Westing.indd 1 9/9/15 9:16 AM 036-039_YMSO15Health.FINAL:Layout 1 9/2/15 11:35 AM Page 36 I knit, therefore I can The science behind knitting and psychological health.

By Carrie Barron, M.D.

“And now, when with each piece of handwork I do, I connect with the centuries of women who cultivated their inner lives and expressed them through the humble works of their hands.” —Susan Gordon Lydon, in The Knitting Sutra: Craft as a Spiritual Practice

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I came upon the Bohus Stickning company operated from mitigates against depression and anxiety Ye a rs a g o , book Poems 1939–1969. [psych.princeton.edu/psychology/research/ of Color: Knitting It would be interesting to know when jacobs/publications.php]. Those studies in the Bohus Tradition and the Women Who Emma first learned to knit. Research suggests were not done on humans, but one might Drove This Swedish Cottage Industry, by that kids who master hand-based skills have extrapolate. Wendy Keele. At age 17, as an exchange stu- a better chance at developing self-esteem There are additional advantages to knitting dent in Sweden and a novice knitter, I was and finding success—practically, emotionally as far as mental health is concerned, when entranced by the array of hand-knit sweaters. and intellectually. Emma turned her limitations viewed through the six “mature defenses,” As I thumbed through the book, the patterns (volatility) to strengths (intense drive) and or qualities of mental health, as described in stirred, but the story of Emma Jacobsson, streamlined her artistry, practicality and com- the classic Kaplan & Sadock text Synopsis of creator of a knitting company, was the true passion into a tour-de-force knitting company. Psychiatry. I find that three of these healthy lure. This woman, who lived from 1883– Handmade pieces conjure a rich inner feel- modes of living in particular manifest in knit- 1977, achieved greatness as an artist, knitter, ing. Colors, texture, imperfections, the wool ting: altruism, anticipation and sublimation. entrepreneur and social servant after being scent, clicking needles and rhythmic hand move- When we knit, the item we’re making is treated by Sigmund Freud. ments stimulate the senses. Whether you often intended as a gift for a loved one or a Emma’s outcome is one we therapists create or just behold it, the homespun piece cat- person in need—this is altruism. I myself hope for—the emergence of an authentic, alyzes mind, imagination and mood. Let’s talk received thoughtful hand-knit gifts in honor empowered, creative self. Born in Austria to about the psychological, physical, practical and of my mother’s love of wool hats after she an established glovemaker and his wife, intellectual benefits of knitting and crocheting. died, and charity organizations that accept Emma wanted to study botany at the univer- handmade items are thriving on knitters’ and sity, much to her father’s displeasure; he Psychological Health crocheters’ generosity. believed it was best that she continue in a Scientific studies show that knitting and cro- Knitting involves selecting, planning, pre- “feminine” field. Emma did not see cheting have real psychological benefits. paring, managing time and organizing a as an adequate means of self-support. process for a desired outcome. This is antic- Their conflict led her father to call his friend ipation. Anticipation implies self-mastery, Freud for a consultation. Emma—smart, tem- discipline, focus and a proactive mind. If one pestuous, perfectionistic and volatile—was an Repetitive motor is too reactive—pulled hither and yon, yarns apparent interpersonal challenge. Freud said, slipping and balls rolling—stress ensues and “She is a very strong personality that is not activity boosts one can feel frayed. Anticipation is a healthy easily influenced, and she should be allowed form of taking control. to follow the course of her choice.” serotonin, a neuro- The third quality is sublimation, which is That course led her to work at a botanical about turning raw to refined, primitive to prod- institute in , where she met and uct, instinct to realization, or, as knitters and married a Swedish philosophy student named transmitter that crocheters do, strands to a sweater. Channel- Malte Jacobsson. In 1912 they married and ing agita, focusing energy, winding skeins, relocated to Bohuslan, Sweden, so Malte mitigates against purling mittens and final rows leads to could take a position as a professor. In a few pride, satisfaction and a sense of empower- years he became governor. Tradition dictated depression and ment. As psychologist Sonya Lyubormirsky that Emma accept wifely duties, so she said in her book The How of Happiness, “Find relinquished her academic work. Ironically, it anxiety. a happy person and you will find a project.” was because of this role that she found a Finished projects are a form of sublimation, source of self-support through the arts, via her but sometimes sublimation is just about company, Bohus Stickning (Bohus Knitting). Researchers including Harvard cardiologist transforming raw talent to real skill. In that How did it begin? In 1937, a group of Dr. Herbert Benson, author of The Relaxation sense it is about owning a personal quality stonecutter wives came to her because work Response, found that knitting lowers pulse, rather than producing a product. for their husbands was scarce. Their suffering blood pressure and stress. Knitting can keep families needed income. Emma decided to the muscles and ligaments of the hands in Positive Mind States and Flow start a knitting company that would supply shape according Dr. Alton Barron, a hand sur- Psychologists talk about positive mind states, socks, gloves and ornaments created by the geon and coauthor of my book The Creativity and many of them are conjured by the kind women for the locals. Because the products Cure. (He’s also my husband.) Neuroscientist of handwork that knitters and crocheters take were useful and finely rendered, they sold Dr. Kelly Lambert demonstrates in her book part in—things like daydreaming, spontaneous well. Lifting Depression that meaningful hand thought, quiet mind, being in the present, These innovative, able and artistic women use elevates mood. “Meaningful” can mean sense of purpose, distraction, goal-oriented moved on to high-end sweaters with original anything from tending to one’s home to knit- process, feeling of effectiveness, sense of con- patterns, and the company flourished. Emma’s ting a sweater. trol, creativity, and immersion and flow. Day- art training helped her critique the work, and Recent research also suggests that knitting dreaming elevates mood and boosts brain her perfectionism demanded quality in design, may even be used as a treatment for the anxiety capacity. University of New Mexico researcher execution and materials. She insisted that that surrounds eating disorders [www.ncbi. Dr. Rex Jung discovered that when the mind the women leave their homes for a week nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19367130], and Princeton wanders along deviant paths, new neural cir- to attend retreats, where they would undergo University psychologist and researcher Dr. cuitry arises. When we knit and the movement training and hone their technique—rare for Barry Jacobs found that repetitive motor activ- becomes second nature, the mind slips into women at the time. The highly successful ity boosts serotonin, a neurotransmitter that pleasing, unplanned (continued on page 38)

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I knit,therefore I can (continued from page 37)

places. Similarly, scientist and surgeon Dr. Charles Limb demon- positioned can foster a feeling of defeat and subsequent avoidance or strated that improvisational thought stimulates brain pleasure centers. inhibition—it can shut a child/mind down. Spontaneous ideation for adults provides joys that are reminiscent of Mastering one phase prepares you for the next, more advanced, one. spontaneous play for children. Cementing hand-based skills primes the mind for future cerebral chal- The crafter’s “quiet mind” conjures calm inner states and creative lenges, as well as for building character traits. Learning to tolerate a pro- thought. In her book Quiet, Susan Cain shows the value of the quiet mind longed process via making things teaches delayed gratification, which for productivity, innovation and peace. Peace is also brought on by the is also a predictor of life success. Delayed gratification was explored in state of “being in the present,” a tenet of Eastern philosophy and a requi- the now-infamous Stanford Marshmallow Test, in which children were site of knitting and crocheting. Yoga and meditation require a present focus given the option of eating one marshmallow now or two marshmallows that abates anxiety and depression, and those practices are considered if they waited up to 20 minutes. valid treatments for these ailments. One can deduce that knitting delivers It may seem paradoxical that making things at age 8 leads to greater a similar mind-set and result. But even as knitting can bring on peace with cerebral faculty at 18, but psychology researchers Robert and Michele being in the present, it can also offer distraction from troubling circum- Root Bernstein studied award-winning scientists and found that the com- stances or offer a sense of control that combats helplessness. Studies mon thread was childhood that involved tinkering. Though per- have shown that routine is psychologically pro- haps parents may feel anxious if their child tective in trying times. My former psychoanalytic is knitting rather than solving math prob- professor Dr. Richard Druss, who specialized in Though perhaps lems, it turns out that knitting might just be treatment of medically ill patients, shared this with the best basis for a career in mathematics. me when I had a client who was dealing with a parents feel anxious if Other thought leaders have studied how debilitating illness. manual action breeds cognitive prowess. Knitting provides a goal or a sense of purpose their child is knitting In his book Frames of Mind, Harvard because it is a project with a beginning, middle professor Howard Gardner out- and end. The poet Goethe wrote, “Whatever you rather than solving lined nine different forms of intelligence: can do or dream you can do, begin it. Boldness has musical, verbal, logical, visual, interper- genius, power and magic to it. Begin it now.” math problems, it sonal, intrapersonal, naturalistic, existential When you begin your task, the pulse quickens and turns out that knitting and bodily kinesthetic. your mind gets organized. And of course, one of Knitting, of course, falls into the bodily the results of that is the feeling of effectiveness— might just be the best kinesthetic category. We all possess each its step-by-step nature feeds into that feeling. form of intelligence to greater or lesser de- Once the technique is mastered, knitting allows basis for a career in grees; identifying the best form for a given for immersion and flow. During flow, a peak human person can determine whether they flourish experience, time falls away and euphoric moments mathematics. or fail. Some people use the body to move emerge. Flow follows from absorption in a desired through, understand and solve a problem. task. This mind-state was first described by psychol- They think best with the body. ogist, researcher and writer Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi A study by an education research [www.ted.com/talks/mihaly_csikszentmihalyi_ on_ company concurs that hands-on projects flow?language=en]. influence cognitive capacity. When phys- Finding the personal habit or that creates ical learning was integrated into lessons, flow can be the secret to a satisfying life. Creative children were more curious and engaged. action elicits flow. As pediatrician and psycho- Here are the findings: 90% of teachers analyst D.W. Winnicott said, “It is creative apper- said that hands-on projects help students ception more than anything else that makes the understand basic ideas as well as broader individual feel that life is worth living.” concepts; 85% of the teachers said that students work cooperatively on hand- Education and Intellectual Prowess crafted projects; 82% of teachers said that handcraft projects help their There are myriad benefits to knitting as far as psychological health for students apply information in new or different situations; 54% of adults is concerned, but there is another, more nuanced, advantage to teachers said this approach is particularly well suited for students who knitting, especially in children: Knitting and crocheting actually foster learned more effectively in nontraditional approaches—visual or kines- cognitive development and can be the basis of a solid education. thetic learners, slow readers or writers and non-native English speakers, Swiss psychologist Dr. Jean Piaget outlined the stages of cognitive for instance. [www.craftyarncouncil.com/classbenefits.html] development. Optimal intellectual capacity depends on successful management of each phase. We will focus on the phase of Concrete Knitting and Self-Esteem Operations as it applies to knitting and crocheting. Concrete Operations Erik Erikson, psychoanalytic researcher, clinician and Harvard professor, occurs at ages 7 through 11, and it involves learning in concrete rather outlined eight stages of the life cycle. Of particular interest to those dis- than abstract ways—handling objects and mastering basic skills rather cussing knitting is the “industry versus inferiority” phase, which occurs than playing with ideas. between ages 5 through 12. Like Piaget, Erikson found that kids who When concrete thinking is the biological dictate, it is best to honor master concrete skills in this phase are set for a robust future. They are a concrete learning method for optimal intellectual results. Children in less likely to feel inferior and more likely to feel competent. He wrote, this stage only solve problems that apply to actual (concrete) objects or “Children are at the stage (aged 5 to 12 yrs) where they make things events, and not abstract concepts or hypothetical tasks. In our current on their own. The child’s peer group will become a major source of the academic climate, many kids are pushed to abstract or deductive child’s self-esteem. The child now feels the need to win approval by thought before they are biologically able, and this can defeat the intellec- demonstrating specific competencies that are valued by society, and tual purpose. Grappling with problems for which you are not organically begins to develop a sense of pride in his accomplishments. If children

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are encouraged and reinforced for their initiative, they begin to feel industrious and confident in New their ability to achieve goals. If this initiative is not encouraged—if it is restricted—then the from child begins to feel inferior, doubting his own abilities and therefore may not reach his poten- tial. Some failure may be necessary so that the Nicky Epstein child can develop some modesty. Yet again, a balance between competence and modesty is necessary. Success in this stage will lead to the virtue of competence.” Enchanted My friend and colleague Lynn Lutomski, for Knits director of the Irvington, New York, Children’s Center for school-aged children, is concerned about how play has become a “four-letter word” and how there is too much emphasis on per- fect performance rather than a learning process. “Our program runs a knitting club,” she says, “where boys and girls ages 5 to 13 have the opportunity to knit while sitting around a table, chatting about anything that comes to mind. Each child works on a blanket, a sweater or a personal masterpiece. Each creation is loaded with holes, dropped stitches, repairs and imper- fections—a glorious reminder of childhood. Each stitch represents personal style, accom- plishment and growth.”

Crafting as a Human Need Just as the Arts and Crafts movement followed the , the Do-It-Yourself move- ment surged after the technical revolution. Why pay $120 to make a sweater when you can buy one for $20? Because meaningful hand Mystical, Magical Costumes for 18-inch Dolls use, deep process and concrete outcome, five- 25 sense experience, and “Look Ma, I did it my- self” are high points of the human condition. They offer the unique and precious pleasure of an autonomous act. We used to need to make 25 Mystical, for practical reasons. Now we need to for psy- chological reasons. Magical Costumes for As much as we love tech for connecting, researching and quick results, the pace is fast, 18-inch Dolls the messages mount and the stress rises. Keeping up can feel like an inhumane demand, yet not keeping up is risky for many people. Fall under the spell of Speed can be a form of oppression. Some peo- Nicky Epstein’s newest ple spend all waking and sleeping hours with a device in hand. We can become physiologically collection of fantastical addicted to the ping. We cannot let go, yet costumes inspired by interrupted sleep and overstimulation can cause your favorite anxiety, depression and stress. Perhaps relin- quishing devices and picking up needles for a storybook characters. time each day can enhance health. So much of well-being is about balance. So much emerges Paperback with flaps from stillness, quiet and moving hands. ISBN 978-1-936096-92-3 128 pages • $19.95 Carrie Barron, M.D., is a board-certified psychia- trist/psychoanalyst on the faculty of New York’s Columbia College of Physicians and Surgeons. She at PsychologyToday.com and is co- Nickyv author of The Creativity Cure: How to Build Happiness with Your Own Two Hands. Epstein Books sixthandspringbooks.com 040-042_YMSO15SelfPublish.FINAL:Layout 1 9/3/15 11:22 AM Page 40

Going to Press: A Look at Self-Publishing in the Fiber World

By Carol J. Sulcoski

Ben Franklin did it; so did Jane Austen, Virginia Woolf and Walt Whitman. If you’re considering joining the ranks of the self-published, read on for a look at today’s indie book market.

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In 2001, a knitwear designer named Cat Bor- Putting a Contract Out tional publisher, describing her designs for dhi self-published a booklet called Socks When Julie Turjoman had an idea that she hand-knit letters with faces, names and Soar on Circular Needles. From an outsider’s believed would make a fantastic knitting backstories. “They really liked my alphabet standpoint, it appeared a long shot for the book, she took the traditional route: She plushies,” recalls Church, “and loved the bestseller list: A mere 44 pages, the booklet prepared a book proposal and circulated it idea of the stories I’d written about them. was devoted to a seemingly arcane topic, a among several literary agents. “I soon got a They also were pleased that I had a knitting specific method for knitting small circumfer- call from one who found the topic exciting,” blog, but they were looking for someone ences in the round. But the slim volume Turjoman recalls. “She found me a pub- with an established following. They urged me struck a chord, and Socks Soar went on to lisher, and about a year later, Brave New to work on increasing my online presence sell more than 100,000 copies and triggered Knits was born.” Turjoman’s approach was and said they’d like to discuss publishing the a revolution in the knitting industry, demon- the standard one for many years: A designer book once I reached the numbers they were strating that not only was self-publishing a with a good idea for a book could either looking for.” Church was heartened that knitting-themed book possible; it could also contact a publisher directly by sending the publisher liked her concept, but she was be extremely profitable. a query letter or written proposal or could unwilling to put her idea on hold. “I saw this approach a literary agent to see if the agent as a positive response,” she reasoned. “So was willing to work on the designer’s be- I went ahead and did it myself.” half to solicit offers from publishers. Competition for landing a book deal was Process and Product steep, and most ideas didn’t make it past Even authors who have no trouble securing the original query. If a publisher seemed in- a publishing contract sometimes turn to terested, however, or a literary agent agreed self-publishing. Julie Turjoman, for example, to take the proposal on, the designer next very happily accepted a contract with Ro- had to create an extensive written outline, dale, a niche publisher seeking to expand its providing representative patterns and sam- presence into hand-knitting titles, and de- ple text along with marketing and biograph- scribes her editor as “thorough, patient and ical information. Only then would the pro- really great about explaining unfamiliar pub- posal end up in front of an actual acquisitions lishing details to me.” After Brave New

Ka-ching (Getting Your Digits?)

It’s tempting to look at extremely designers, or the cost of tech editing—while others do not. successful self-published authors— Advance money helps compensate an author for any income think Ysolda Teague and Cat Bordhi—and assume that foregone while working on the book. Self-published authors one of the advantages of self-publishing is financial. do not get any money until they start selling the actual book, Make sure you completely understand the costs and benefits and any income will have to offset any initial expenses. of self-publishing compared with a traditional publishing • If you hire a literary agent to represent you, you’ll be obliged contract. Things to keep in mind: to pay the agent a percentage of any royalties you receive in • Royalty rates vary among authors and publishers. A traditional exchange for access to traditional publishers. Self-published publisher may offer between 6 and 12 percent of sales, subject authors, of course, need not worry about agency fees. to various exceptions and conditions, and the author does not • A self-published author must front the entire cost of producing have to pay any production costs; self-published authors keep a book, including, at a minimum, photography, model fees, whatever profit they make but are responsible for all costs. supplies, fees for tech editing and other professionals, design • Most traditional publishing contracts offer an advance—a pro- work and, if a print run is produced, printing costs. Hunter jected amount paid against future royalty earnings—before the Hammersen estimates a budget of $10,000 to $15,000 is nec- book is published. Some contracts require the author to pay essary for each book she self-publishes, whereas traditional certain costs out of the advance—say, fees to contributing publishers do not require their authors to pay production costs.

Self-publishing has come a long way since editor. The parties still had to hammer out Knits came out, however, Turjoman realized then. In the early days of the new millennium, numerous details like publication date, ad- that although she was proud of the finished when Bordhi was writing her booklet, self- vance and royalty figures, and style issues. book, it wasn’t exactly the one she’d set out publishing as it exists today simply wasn’t Should an agreement be reached, the to write. For her next book, she decided, she possible. “The tools for doing it yourself didn’t author would turn to the work of actually would contribute more of her own designs exist. You couldn’t even use the Internet to writing the book, then wait months before and maintain greater control over the finished Google ‘self-publishing,’” Bordhi says, “be- holding the final product in her hands. product—everything from the choice of photo- cause the Internet as we know it now didn’t The appeal of self-publishing—getting graphs to the weight of the paper used. exist.” Traditional publishers and readers were right to work on a book and avoiding pro- After attending a retreat for self-publish- only vaguely familiar with the concept of vanity tracted negotiations, uncertainty and the pas- ing authors sponsored by Cat Bordhi, Turjo- publishing—companies that would print a sage of time—seems obvious. For designer man began working on Knits That Breathe, customer’s book for a fee but provided little in Dani Church, who self-published The Secret a collection of breezy women’s garments the way of support or marketing—and looked Lives of Letters, the desire to strike while designed for hot climates and wearers who down on books that weren’t produced by an idea was hot was the primary incentive always run warm. “I designed all the proj- traditional publishing houses. for self-publishing. Church contacted a tradi- ects myself, chose all the yarns, decided

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Going to Press (continued from page 41)

the book’s color palette and wrote all the pattern drafts,” Turjoman To Market, to Market explains. “The whole look and feel of KTB was my vision, and it was im- You’ve designed the patterns and hired the sample knitters; your pro- portant to me that the photo shoot location and styling convey the ‘cool fessional photographer is done and the layout is letter-perfect. Now it’s and breezy’ sensibility of the projects. Knitter comments and reviews time to sit back and rake in the money, right? Not exactly. One of the most made it clear that this effort really resonated.” Turjoman went on to self- difficult aspects of self-publishing is the harsh realization that you as the publish another book, A Head for Trouble, confident that she “didn’t author are entirely responsible for the marketing and distribution of your need a mainstream publisher to interpret and package my work for the book. Traditional publishers have a vast network of resources for getting knitting public.” books onto retailers’ shelves—sales reps, marketing teams and relation- ships with large book distributors, to name but a few. But self-published Caveat Publisher authors have to do everything themselves. While the benefits of self-publishing are easy to appreciate, prospective For some, the practical realities of book distribution are sobering. Take authors do need to keep in mind the many traps that exist for the un- the distribution of print books, for example. Apart from their cost, which wary. Hunter Hammersen, whose seventh self-published book, Fine is substantial—Hammersen estimates that about half her total budget Things for Plain Occasions, arrives this fall, jokes, “The best thing about for producing a book goes toward printing self-publishing is that you get to make all the costs—you’ll need to store all those books, decisions, but oddly enough, the worst thing then somehow get them into the hands about self-publishing is also that you get to E-book vs. Print? of potential purchasers, including retailers, make all the decisions.” and access to traditional outlets for selling One of the many decisions a self-published In addition to writing patterns and pro- books can be blocked for those who self- author must make is whether to produce an ducing samples, a self-published author is publish. Even if your garage is big enough e-book only, print book only or both. For most responsible for producing high-quality photos; to hold a good-sized print run, you’ll self-published authors, a print run is the single ensuring that patterns are tech-edited and have to fulfill orders and ship out those biggest expense; by releasing a pdf version clear; writing and proofreading copy and in- books, which are heavy and thus expen- only, an author can costs in half or more. structions; creating the book’s layout; selecting sive to mail. To avoid the practical difficul- Many self-published authors report robust a printer; planning and managing distribution; ties of storing and shipping print copies, sales of e-books; Julie Turjoman estimates that and marketing the book. Each of those tasks Dani Church opted for a print-on-demand e-books outsell her print books by a factor of involves many layers of decisions amid a con- publisher—Amazon.com’s CreateSpace at least two to one, but this is not the case for stantly changing—and expensive—landscape. platform. Church sells a pdf version everyone. Other reasons in favor of going e-only: To end up with usable, attractive photographs, of her book via her own website and Rav- the cost of shipping books, particularly abroad; for example, a self-published author must elry.com, with print copies printed by avoiding the need to store books and ship either have the technical knowledge to take her CreateSpace as they are ordered through them to distributors or retailers; and eliminating own photos or hire a photographer; select Amazon and shipped directly to the pur- the risk of being stuck with unsold print books. and hire models (or work with the photogra- chaser. Hammersen and Turjoman both That being said, many authors and pub- pher to do so); decide how to style each de- opted to do print runs, working with lishers firmly believe that print books are nec- sign, including the models’ makeup, clothing well-known distributors to reach more essary. Without a print book, certain promo- and hairstyles; scout locations for photogra- buyers, including local yarn shops and tional events—book signings, for instance—are phy shoots and obtain necessary permissions; larger book retailers. impossible, and retailers who do not have do any retouching or reshooting; and provide Once you’ve solved the distribution the capacity to sell pdfs simply cannot sell the the appropriate technical files to the printer question, you’ll have to turn your attention book to their customers. As Hunter Hammer- or book designer. And each of those deci- to marketing, a huge and crucial part of a sen, who offers both print and electronic sions impacts the final look and feel of the successful book. , owner of options, observes, ”Many people really love book in ways both subtle and obvious. Cooperative Press, notes, “Independent paper books and want to have a physical When faced with such a daunting to-do designers who have the most success object to hold.” list, prospective authors need to be realistic with [self-publishing] share a few common about their strengths, as well as areas in traits: They don’t release a book and just which they might need help. Dani Church cautions, “All your hard work expect it to sell itself. They have multiple activity streams to promote it, will do you no good if you don’t generate a professional-looking, eye- such as classes, stand-alone patterns, trunk shows, guild presentations, catching book that has really good content. You have to recognize your technique videos and social media activity, including blog or social limitations and get folks on board to help you achieve this.” Church, media tours. They also reach out to other designers, knitting publications who worked for many years as a video and film producer, had a cadre of (from print to podcasts to online only) and previous customers. They friends to consult. She hired a graphic-designer friend to do the layout make promoting their project a priority.” for the book and used professional tech editing as well as a content edi- Not all designers have the industry connections to get their books into tor to minimize the chance of errors and create the most professional large-circulation magazines for review, teach classes nationwide or pro- book possible. duce expert-quality videos to help reach potential buyers. Even those who Hunter Hammersen also relies on professionals to supplement her do sometimes balk at the enormity of getting a self-published book on own talents, but exactly whom she hires varies by book. (She hired a the shelves of an LYS, let alone a bookstore. Designer Brooke Nico re- graphic designer to lay out her earlier books, for instance, but has since flects, “When I started thinking about doing a book, I knew that traditional learned how to do it herself.) Hammersen’s advice: “Your books must publishing was the best choice for me. I wanted to concentrate my ener- be able to hold their own on the shelf next to the books published by gies on those things I do best, which is design clothes and write good pat- the big guys, and the way you do that is to hire help when you need it. terns, and let the experts focus on layout, marketing and sales. One of the If in doubt, go with the more polished choice, even if it’s more expen- reasons I chose this career path is the fact that I really love my work, and sive. Don’t do something yourself unless you are absolutely sure you I want to enjoy every day of it, focusing on my own particular skills.” can do it at a professional level.”

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THE MASTERS WHEEL OF FORTUNE

Those of us who work with business can be cyclical, and we knew there would be both good times and hard times ahead—some- and love yarn often say thing that is true for most businesses. that fiber is in our blood, YMN: How big is the company today? What but Warren Wheelock of about the size feels “right” to you? Berroco may have more WW: Our principal markets are the U.S. and Canada, of a claim than others. though we have established a number of retail accounts in as well. Our feeling is that one His family has been in doesn’t have to be the largest to enjoy and excel in the industry since 1809; this industry. We and our 20 employees have a hands-on work style. We don’t want to drift from that these days, he and his work ethos, and so a small business approach is a wife Caroline lead the good fit for us. yarn-focused business YMN: I hear you enjoy developing new yarns. from its headquarters in Why does that appeal to you? end consumer, and so we have to support them Rhode Island. YMN’s Erin WW: Since I don’t have a creative bone in my body as best we can. Unlike 30 years ago, we now have Slonaker sat down with with regards to fashion and design, the challenge the ability to communicate directly with the con- of developing yarns from the technical side provides sumer via our website, e-newsletters and social the Wheelocks to find me a certain creative freedom. We develop many media platforms. With the inspiration of our great out more. more yarns than we could ever purchase. Most just design team, we hope we can help drive the con- don’t come out as expected. But once in a while, a sumers into the shops. The shop owners are our YMN: You are the sixth generation of Wheelocks few make it into the collections. ambassadors, and we have to partner with them to work in the . What’s it like to for our mutual success. be the guardian of such an august tradition? YMN: Where do you seek inspiration for the yarns and their colors? WW: It really makes the work experience more en- DEVELOPING NEW YARNS WW: Now you should be talking with Caroline. She riching. There’s a certain comfort working in the same FASCINATES“ ME. industry as my ancestors. One could argue that it’s works with our in-house design team and creates all the Wheelocks know how to do. Ironically, having color palettes that suit the market. Inspiration is look- “ family and legacy in a certain line of trade is now the ing both forward and backward. We have color serv- YMN: Your design department is renowned. exception, when it used to be the norm. I had the ices from Europe that tell us what’s coming down When did you start to focus your attention privilege of working with my parents, uncles and a the pike. But we also look back historically at what there—or has it always been a primary focus? first cousin—I wouldn’t have wanted it any other our retailers and their consumers have purchased. WW: We’ve always had a focus on design within way. Now, though, there’s just Caroline and me. Berroco. I would say to everyone that we are a YMN: How have you seen the industry change design company that happens to sell yarn. We’ve YMN: Is there a plan in place for the next gen- over the years? been very lucky over the years to employ talented eration of Wheelocks to join the company? WW: The market has become much more seg- design directors including Margery Winter and WW: The jury is out on that question. At the mented over the years, both in terms of the suppliers Norah Gaughan. And now we are very fortunate to moment, our son is a math teacher for Teach for and the customers. So it requires a company such have Amy Christoffers leading our design team. America and our daughter just graduated from as our own to have a much greater breadth and variety college. Caroline and I run the business for our- of brands and yarns within our collection to satisfy YMN: When you’re not in the office, what do selves, and I guess one could say that we would everyone’s needs. However, that means that we have you like to do? be open to the idea if either child expressed an to carry more lines and more colors and develop WW: Both Caroline and I like to keep physically ac- interest. However, it’s not an expectation. more patterns—all of which require more investment. tive. And so whether we’re road bike riding, hiking, We think of ourselves as a kind of Ben and Jerry’s of running or skiing, we seem to always find some- YMN: Why did you and Caroline reincorporate yarn. Whether you’re looking for plain vanilla or rocky thing that makes our muscles ache. We do escape as Berroco to focus only on yarn? Was there road, we’ve got a yarn to suit. many weekends throughout the year to the White something about that time or the public’s inter- Mountain National Forest, where we have a get- est in 1987 that spurred that decision? YMN: What do you think is the most important away and get to play. WW: No, we did not have any inside track or strategic factor for the industry’s future viability? Are reasons to focus on yarn. Truth be told, it’s what we there ways you are positioning Berroco for YMN: Do you knit English or Continental? knew best, especially since Berroco had established continued longevity? WW: I can knit and purl. Caroline is an excellent knitter itself as far back as 1979, the year I joined the com- WW: We have to help our bricks-and-mortar retailers and knits mostly for herself and for gifts. Being natively pany after college. We already understood that the be successful. They represent the front line to our French, she has a preference to knit Continental.

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