THE LOWESWATER FELLS the Lake District?

Home , Burnbank Fell, Fleetwith Pike, Grasmoor, Great Gable, Hen Comb, High Stile

The Lake District? There can’t be any trails-less-trodden there, can there? Well, there are, judging by the footfall on these trails…. For a start, this is the north-west corner of the Lake District, probably the third least visited corner after the far-east (east of Haweswater and Kentmere) and the far-north (north of Skiddaw and Blencathra). Secondly, I followed my nose and found some paths that were definitely less-trodden and some out-of-the-way spots worth telling you about.

My trip was over four days in early March, 2018, straight after a cold snap that had covered the country in a blanket of snow and disrupted transport. However, I was able to get through to the Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater, for my stay. I can recommend their mid-week Winter Offer when you get Dinner, B&B at a reduced rate and the food is very good. All these trails start and finish there. Here’s a map of the area:

197: Low Fell

I chose Low Fell for my first trail because it’s got the reputation of providing one of the best views in the Lake District. Wainwright in ‘The Western Fells’ (Lincoln, first published 1966) recommends going up from the west, either over Darling Fell or up Crabtree Beck.

I set off intending to take the Darling Fell route but when I got to the turn for Thackthwaite where the map says ‘141’, I had a strong feeling to turn right and go up from the east. So I did. This choice turned out well for me…. (Photo 2325)

Photo 2325: Low Fell from near the Kirkstile Inn, with Darling Fell to the left The view in question is over Crummock Water and into the heart of the Lake District, lying to the south-east. So I took lots of photos in this direction as I went along (Photo 2326).

Photo 2326: Crummock Water from the lane to Foulsyke

Turning left at Foulsyke, you cross a field and enter a wood (Photo 2330).

Photo 2330: helpful sign towards the wood

The sun came out for me and I already felt this was the right way to go. It felt like another ‘first day of spring’ (I’d already had one on my previous trip to Orford – see Trail 195). Hopefully, my photos will give you a flavour of this (Photos 2332, 2333, 2334 & 2336).

Photo 2332 Photo 2333

Photo 2334: moody shot of Crummock Water Photo 2336: I turned up the hillside here

Through the wood, I had a refrain running around my head: “Just like coming home”, from the track ‘Tangent’ on Beth Orton’s 1996 ‘trip-hop’ album ‘Trailer Park’. I always have this feeling when I return to a well-loved place (I get it with the Isles of Scilly, too – see Trip 11). By the way, I found these words on her album sleeve when I looked up the details of ‘Tangent’ (I’m sure she won’t mind me quoting them):

“….gender is just an excuse, relationships shouldn’t just be an excuse, love is often an excuse, although sometimes these excuses are all we have to hold onto, death is the reason and living is the celebration.”

I’m not sure what it all means (excuses for what?) but it sounds good to me.

About 100m after you leave the wood, you can turn left up onto a bank. I left it until a bit later by the tiny waterfall in Photo 2336 where I joined the path up the hillside (Photo 2338). Once over an awkward, badly-maintained stile, you can take a rest (I needed one, anyway) on a mossy fallen tree-trunk (Photo 2347). A little higher up, the view over Crummock Water improves, before the slope of Low Fell gets in the way (Photo 2349). You also get good views down Lorton Vale to the north (Photo 2350) and across to Whiteside and Grasmoor in the east (Photo 2351).

Photo 2338: path up the hillside Photo 2347: mossy seat

Photo 2349: Crummock Water and Mellbreak Photo 2350: Lorton Vale

Photo 2351: Whiteside and Grasmoor Now the going gets steeper for a while as the path winds its way up a ridge of Low Fell. Fortunately, there is a fence which has clearly been used by fell-walkers to haul themselves up this section (much of the fence is falling over as a result). You emerge onto a saddle between the north and south tops of Low Fell. I turned left over a stile for the south top which promised the better views. I liked the view from the lowest point of the saddle (Photo 2355). The view from the first top with the main cairn is not as good as that from:

“The Furthest Cairn on the South Top of Low Fell”

The view down Crummock Water from here may be the best view in the whole of the Lake District, rivalling that in the opposite direction from Fleetwith Pike and the view from Bowfell (Photo 2357). It extends as far as Haystacks and Great Gable (Photo 2365). To the left, Robinson, Whiteless Pike, Grasmoor and Whiteside line up, while the High Stile Ridge, Mellbreak and the Loweswater Fells are to the right. Turning further to the right, you find Loweswater, with Carling Knott and Burbank Fell behind (Photo 2359); and turning further left, you can see right down Lorton Vale; behind you, to the north, you can only see a small bit of Low Fell top. The only advantage of the middle top of the three that comprise the south top of Low Fell is that you can see more of the rest of Low Fell. I apologise for comprehensively breaking my rule from the Introduction of not showing photos from my Spots for fear of spoiling your pleasure when you arrive but these views are too good to omit.

Photo 2357: view from the lowest cairn on the south top of Low Fell

Photo 2355: view from the saddle Photo 2365: Haystacks and Great Gable

Photo 2359: Loweswater, Carling Knott and Burnbank Fell

Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay still here for longer than ten minutes because it was so cold. On the way down towards Darling Fell, I was daunted by the prospect of climbing up another steep slope – for what? The views from Darling Fell wouldn’t be as good and the way down Crabtree Beck looked inviting with a visible path (Photo 2371).

Photo 2371: the way down Crabtree Beck Photo 2372: view down Crabtree Beck So I turned left at the beck (Photo 2372), past a sheep-fold on the right bank and followed a clear path round the lower slope of Darling Fell. Further on, this path headed too far right for my liking so, at a junction, I went more or less straight ahead down the slope (Photo 2374). This was now a sheep-track but you can find your way down through gorse and bracken (worse in summer) by using sheep-tracks (there were no boot-prints all the way down from here – only sheep droppings!). As a guide, I recommend sticking to the right side of the wood (Photos 2375, 2376).

Photo 2374: junction where I suggest going Photo 2376: sheep on the sheep-track straight downhill

Photo 2375: sheep-track going down by the wood, Hen Comb and Black Crag on the skyline

At the bottom, you come up against a barbed-wire fence but about 100m along there is a crossable gap in the fence that enables you to enter the wood. It’s easy to find your way down to the road by Loweswater (Photo 2378) – I was lucky enough to hit a gate next to a large sheepfold with a National Trust sign saying “Beware the Pinder”, whoever that is. From the road, there’s a nice view over Loweswater (Photo 2381), as you return downhill to the Kirkstile Inn (Photo 2387). On the way, you might see a red squirrel, if the sign is to be believed (Photo 2382).

Photo 2378: the way through the wood Photo 2381: over Loweswater

Photo 2387: the Kirk, the Kirkstile Inn and Photo 2382: I didn’t see one Mellbreak – don’t know where the stile is

Note that the OS map is completely out of date for this descent – even the 2016 version. The wood is not shown, except at the very bottom. Also, Wainwright’s suggested route from 1966 which goes up over ‘rough ground’ from 200m beyond Crabtree Farm (now called Crabtree Beck) is no longer feasible because it is now blocked by the wood. The nearest approximation would be my route.

Before coming on this trip, I didn’t have a favourite fell, even though I’d climbed most of them. Now I do: Low Fell. As its name implies, it’s not huge (about 400m) but size isn’t everything when it comes to trails – and fells for that matter (see my Introduction for more on this). Low Fell has the lot for me: pleasant approach through the wood; taxing climb which you get out of the way at the start; ever-improving views in several directions; a choice of interesting, appealing tops with to-die-for views; and a gentle descent down a scenic valley with a bit of route-finding – and a pub just down the road. Beat that, Scafell Pike. 198: Down by Crummock Water

This was my ‘rest day’ in between slightly longer and more difficult trails. I wanted to explore the area around the bottom end of Crummock Water: its outflow is to the north and gathers the waters of Loweswater and Buttermere into the River Cocker, which flows down Lorton Vale to Cockermouth. There, it meets the River Derwent, which brings down the waters of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Lake (you can see why Cockermouth is in danger of flooding after heavy rains).

Take the road leading south-east from The Kirkstile Inn, close to Park Beck, which flows from Loweswater into Crummock Water (Photo 2388). Turn right to bridge the beck and take a left towards Highpark. Look out for a left turn after about 50m (Photo 2391).

Photo 2388: Park Beck Photo 2391: left turn with Grasmoor behind Follow what looks like a ‘holloway’ (but isn’t – Photo 2392) by the beck with mossy trees and banks on one side and a mossy wall on the other (Photo 2393). Out in the meadow, with Grasmoor and Crummock Water ahead (Photo 2394), you come to a standing stone on the right (Photo 2395).

Photo 2392: feels like a ‘holloway’ Photo 2393: mossy-sided path

Photo 2394: Grasmoor ahead Photo 2395: standing stone

Instead of ploughing straight ahead, turn right to climb a low knoll topped by a slab of rock:

“Rock on Top of Grassy Knoll above Standing Stone”

This spot affords all round views of the area around the bottom of Crummock Water, usually referred to, confusingly, as Loweswater. This vantage point does what Low Fell does but from a much lower angle. This time, I won’t load you with photos. Suffice to say that you can see right down Crummock Water to Haystacks and Great Gable, plus all the other mountains I have mentioned before. An additional bonus is that you can see up Lisa Beck to Hopegill Head between Whiteside and Grasmoor (Photo 2397). You also have a good view of the north end of Mellbreak over Highpark and a view of Blake Fell between Black Crag and Carling Knott. You are surrounded by rolling green pastures and stone walls, interspersed with patches of bracken and marram grass, and a bank of conifers beneath Scale Hill and Whiteside – and to top it all, there’s a stone seat in a mossy notch at the apex of the rock.

Photo 2397: Hopegill Head between Whiteside and Grasmoor

Now go straight ahead towards Crummock Water (the right fork in Photo 2395), over a stile, through a wooded bog, to a gate over duckboards (Photo 2405). Turn right here to follow a faint path down to the water’s edge, where you can pick up a bolder path along the shoreline (Photo 2406).

Photo 2405: right turn here Photo 2406: looking back along the shoreline

Past an old pumping station (Photo 2409), and across a footbridge (Photo 2411), you come to a grove of trees where I imagine lots of picnicking goes on in summer (Photo 2413). At the end of this is the outflow of Crummock Water (Photo 2422) where there are lots of weirs and maintenance paraphernalia. If you wish, you could cross a couple of bridges and take a forest walk courtesy of the National Trust.

I retraced my steps to the old pumping station and turned right to a bridge where there’s a triple choice: you can go back the way you came past the standing stone, you can go down a track towards Low Fell and return via Gillerthwaite, or you can do a mild trespass across a low fence (the map marks a footpath, not a public footpath) and return along the opposite side of Park Beck.

Photo 2409: old pumping station Photo 2411: footbridge & Crummock Water

Photo 2413: grove Photo 2422: outflow of Crummock Water

Of course, I chose the third option (Photo 2427) and had to find my way through a sheep-pen (not as easy as you might think). I had quite a surprise when, instead of fleeing my presence as sheep usually do, this flock lined up 5m behind me in battle formation and started bleating ferociously. I’ve never seen this ‘get out of our field’ behaviour before – tough nuts, these Herdwick sheep. I wish I’d taken a photo. This time, my return to the Kirkstile Inn was uphill (Photo 2428).

Photo 2427

Photo 2428 This trail was not as dramatic as the one over Low Fell but it was a relaxing stroll beside Crummock Water amidst towering fells, with a top-notch spot to boot.

199: High Nook

I thought I would climb Blake Fell on Wainwright’s route via Holme Wood and Carling Knott and return via High Nook and set off with that intention.

The way to Holme Wood gives a good view of the route ahead (Photo 2430) and passes the bottom of Loweswater (Photos 2436, 2440).

Photo 2430: Holme Wood & Carling Knott Photo 2440: Loweswater

Photo 2436: view over Loweswater to Low Fell, showing the way down for Trail 197

Just before Holme Wood, you pass Watergate Farm ((Photo 2441). As you enter Holme Wood, there’s a clear view over to Darling Fell and Low Fell (Photo 2442).

Photo 2441: Watergate Farm and Mellbreak Photo 2442: Darling Fell and Low Fell

You fork left immediately and start to climb diagonally through the wood. At the first cross- paths, I decided to turn left towards High Nook Tarn, not relishing the steep climb through the wood and the even steeper climb up Carling Knott. I could always go up Blake Fell from High Nook, I told myself. I also told myself that clouds seemed to be forming on the higher fells and I don’t climb fells in cloud – I can’t see the point.

The path leads to the southern edge of Holme Wood after about 200m, affording lovely views to the left (Photos 2448, 2449). After ½k, you leave the wood and descend on a track heading straight for Black Crag (Photo 2452).

Photo 2448: Hen Comb & Black Crag Photo 2449: Whiteside, Grasmoor, Mellbreak

Photo 2452: descending to High Nook with Black Crag behind, tarn just visible below

On reaching High Nook Beck, you can see the lay-out of the area: High Nook Tarn is on a plateau above the beck, which is fed by two streams coming down from the cols on either side of Blake Fell (Photo 2457). I took a right here to check out the way ahead and found myself hoping that there would be cloud on Blake Fell – in other words, I wasn’t really up for climbing it. The clinchers were to see the zig-zag path up the ridge between the two streams (Photo 2458), which looked every bit as steep as Low Fell, and to feel a keen wind which would have been even keener on the tops. So I baled out and headed for High Nook Tarn which turned out to be a delight – much more attractive than it looked from a distance.

First, you have to cross the beck (Photo 2459); then you go through a ‘gateless gate to nowhere’ where there is no fence (Photo 2464). To your right, there’s a rise which would be covered in bracken in summer:

Photo 2457: two streams at High Nook Photo 2458: zig-zag path up to Blake Fell

Photo 2459: High Nook Beck, Low Fell and Whiteside Photo 2464: ‘gateless gate’ & tarn

“On Top of the Rise to the South-West of High Nook Tarn”

This spot provides great all-round views of the High Nook area: firstly, of High Nook Tarn itself, still with some ice on it after the recent cold snap (Photo 2468); also down the valley to Low Fell and Lorton Vale; across to the brown-layered hump-back of Carling Knott; and up towards Blake Fell; Black Crag rises above you, living up to its name with a dark-brown crest of rock and heather above its lower slopes of light-brown dead bracken.

Photo 2468: High Nook Tarn from the rise Obviously (to me, anyway), I had to walk round High Nook Tarn, which required some judicious route-finding through or around boggy patches – but it was worth it : some of the mosses were exquisite (Photos 2472, 2476) and the views over the icy water were delightful (Photos 2477, 2478, 2479 & 2481).

Photos 2472, 2476

The sun flickered between the clouds as I was leaving, offering a few sun-dappled shots of the descent to High Nook Farm (Photos 2489, 2490).

Photo 2489: Holme Wood, High Nook Beck and Low Fell

Photo 2490: the track down with Loweswater just visible and Low Fell

I liked the farm and the farmer on his tractor, with whom I exchanged wordless bows as we each in turn allowed the other to pass first (Photos 2496, 2497 & 2499).

Photo 2496: High Nook Farm Photo 2497: his and hers?

Photo 2499: the Lakes are a working environment, as we are constantly reminded

A few arty-farty shots and a retrospective view of High Nook on the way back completed a wonderful day (Photos 2502, 2503, 2504 & 2505).

Photos 2503, 2504: patterns on a wall and a close-up of the mosses and lichens

I congratulated myself on not submitting to the windy rigours of Blake Fell and on instead relishing the manifold charms of High Nook. Even now, I have to remind myself of my walking philosophy that I don’t have to climb every mountain or reach some predetermined, far-off destination but can wander wherever my whim wills me.

200: Around Mellbreak

Again I abandoned a well-researched plan in favour of a more enjoyable alternative. My plan had been to go up Mellbreak by Wainwright’s ‘highly recommended’ route A, which winds its way diagonally up the steep north face (see A. Wainwright, The Western Fells, 1966, Mellbreak 5). However, I asked around at the Kirkstile Inn and met a young waitress who had gone up that way the day before. She told me the path was steep and slippery because of the melting snow with a few patches of (avoidable) ice. That put me right off so I then considered Wainwright’s route C, which goes up from Mosedale to the saddle between Mellbreak’s two tops, also steep but not so slippery. I decided to decide when I got to the turn-off halfway up Mosedale.

Going south from the Kirkstile Inn, you get a good view of the inn in its setting (Photo 2514) before passing Kirkhead, a cluster of buildings which appear to comprise posh old house, farm and posh new house, which pretty much sums up Lake District dwellings (Photos 2515, 2516 & 2517). Further along the lane, you can study Wainwright’s route A (Photo 2519) and there’s another vantage point to view Loweswater (Photo 2523).

Photos 2514, 2515, 2516 & 2517

Photo 2519: route A goes over the scree and heather to the first bump, then up the ridge – note the wispy cloud near the top, a useful excuse for not going up a mountain

Photo 2523: I think this is my best shot of Loweswater

The lane continues past a wood with Mosedale Beck to the right and with Little Dodd and Hen Comb on the far side of the valley (Photo 2525). Beyond the wood, Mosedale opens out before you with Gale Fell brooding at its end (Photo 2527). Note a lone tree ahead (Photo 2531).

Photo 2525: Little Dodd & Hen Comb Photo 2527: Mosedale, Hen Comb and Gale Fell

Photo 2531: lone tree, Gale Fell and the upper end of Mosedale, i.e. Mosedale Moss, a bog

When you reach the turn-off for route C up Mellbreak, you can decide whether it’s worth it for slightly different views over Crummock Water, Buttermere, the Loweswater Fells and the Grasmoor group from those from Low Fell. Studying the steepish route (Photo 2533), I decided it wasn’t and continued on a circum-navigation of Mellbreak, a good decision as it turned out.

Photo 2533: the steepish route C up Mellbreak is the path between the two becks Now head for the tree (Photo 2534) along a boggy path. The tree, strangely, is a holly and there are two low rocks to sit on beneath it (Photo 2537). After your rest, pay attention, please. Do not take the lower sheep-track from the tree (Photo 2538). That way lies an hour of pain. Instead, you should look for – and find – the path on the map that traverses the slope upwards from the tree before descending after crossing a ridge. I mis-read the map and thought the path descended from where I estimated the tree to be and spent an hour wading through the boggy outskirts of Mosedale Moss. I kept thinking I had found the path but they were only sheep-tracks. The only compensation was some variegated mosses (Photo 2540).

Photo 2534: the lone holly tree Photo 2537: Hen Comb from under the tree

Photo 2538: the path not to take Photo 2540: one of the many mosses

There were also good views up to Floutern where I had been before from Ennerdale (see Spots 103, 104 under ‘Around Ennerdale Water’) but these could have been seen from the proper path (Photo 2541), as could most of the view down Mosedale to Darling Fell and Low Fell (Photo 2543). The nature of the terrain can be seen from this photo of Mellbreak, taken from halfway along the boggy path (Photo 2546).

I eventually met up with the proper path at a gate where four paths and two fences meet high above Scale Beck. If you, too, miss the path for some reason, head for Red Pike, sticking out above the gully where Scale Force is hidden (Photo 2553).

Photo 2541: Floutern Tarn is hidden in the fold beneath Great Borne

Photo 2543: down Mosedale Photo 2546: the reeds are the give-away

Photo 2553: Red Pike sticking out I took a much-needed rest on the stile by the gate and when I had recovered, I appreciated what a magnificent spot this is:

“Stile by the Meeting of Four Paths above Scale Beck”

You have climbed quite high up, without really noticing it, and are in the middle of a circle of outstanding scenery: first to catch your eye is probably the view over Buttermere to Fleetwith Pike and Robinson (Photo 2557); then there’s Grasmoor, peeking over the ridge of Scale Knott; next comes the south slope of Mellbreak, the easiest way up, followed by Hen Comb, whose south slope takes your eye to Floutern, now with Floutern Cop in full view and with Great Borne behind; lastly, there’s the steep rise of Gale Fell, leading round to Red Pike. I loved everything about this spot, especially after trudging through the boggy wastes of Mosedale Moss and, to improve my mood, the sun came out in fits and starts.

Photo 2557: Robinson, Buttermere and Fleetwith Pike

Here I met a fellow-hiker who had just come up from below and advised me that the path down to Scale Force on the other side of the valley was steep and that it would be better not to cross the beck here but to cross it on a bridge lower down. That’s what I set out to do. Just below my spot, I noticed an elegant rock draped in vibrant moss (Photo 2627). The path down brings Crummock Water into view and takes Buttermere away (Photo 2567). On drawing level with Scale Force, I remembered that I had visited it once before when coming down from the High Stile Ridge and had regretted the detour. The waterfall may be high but most of the time it’s just a dribble (Photo 2574) so this time I didn’t bother going up to see it at close quarters (Photo 2575).

Photo 2627 Photo 2574: Scale Force Photo 2575: the way up to Scale Force

Photo 2567: Whiteless Pike, Crummock Water and Robinson

At the bottom of Scale Beck, the valley opens out to embrace the head of Crummock Water (Photo 2578) and you can find your way on vague paths to its shore , seeing more and more of its length as you go (Photos 2584, 2586). Once there, you can pick up a proper path along its shore (hooray!) and after maybe 300m you arrive at Low Ling Crag, a small peninsula jutting out 100m into the Water (Photo 2588):

Photo 2578: head of Crummock Water Photo 2584: along Crummock Water

Photo 2586: reflections in Crummock Water Photo 2588: Low Ling Crag and Grasmoor

“Knoll on the End of Low Ling Crag”

The very shape of the crag is in itself beautiful, even before you have raised your eyes to the more distant views: it has two small, grey, curved beaches leading to a grassy knoll. Unfortunately, no seat is provided unless you want to dangle your feet over water (I’d find it difficult to get up from there). The other views, as you would expect, are down and up the length of Crummock Water (Photos 2589, 2594), up to the High Stile Ridge to the south-east (Photo 2599), up to Rannerdale Knotts and Whiteless Pike to the east (Photo 2595), across to Grasmoor in the north-east and up to Mellbreak in the north-west; added to which, some of the reflections in the Water are worth lowering your eyes for (Photo 2598). If we’re talking Crummock Water, this has to be the spot. For me, this was the highlight of my whole trip: on one of my beloved promontories, out in the middle of a placid lake amidst the mountains of one of my favourite places, the Lake District, on a shiny afternoon with just enough cloud to make the sky interesting but not so much as to obscure the tops. Again, I apologise for showing so many photos from this spot but I feel their quality justifies breaking my rule yet again. I trust you agree.

Photo 2589: down Crummock Water Photo 2594: up Crummock Water

Photo 2599: the High Stile Ridge Photo 2595: Whiteless Pike and Rannerdale Knotts

Photo 2598: Low Fell and cloud reflection As you leave Low Ling Crag, you get a lovely view over it to the south-east (Photo 2600). Almost immediately, you are onto a flagstoned path through boggy ground (thank you, National Park, or whoever). From here, the paths are obvious, if not always straightforward, being up and down and round and about rocky bits of the shoreline (Photo 2605).

Photo 2600: Low Ling Crag with Rannerdale Knotts, Robinson and Fleetwith Pike

Photo 2605: looking back to show the somewhat higgledy-piggledy path

The terrain flattens out towards the north end of Crummock Water but I could not see where the path splits until much later than is shown on the OS map. Anyway, eventually, it does split (Photo 2611). I took the left path over the ridge to return straight to the Kirkstile Inn but you could continue along the shore. Once over the ridge, you descend gradually to Highpark which makes a nice photo against Mellbreak (Photo 2616). Then it’s back along the already trodden road to the Kirkstile.

Photo 2611: the split in the path Photo 2616: Highpark and Mellbreak

I like quoting Wainwright – he is an engaging writer, as well as a superb draughtsman; he says of route A up Mellbreak: “The upper part of the path is a joy to follow: steep, but no difficulties” (Mellbreak 5). Paraphrasing the great fell-walker, I would say of this trail (providing you avoid the Mosedale bog): “The whole path is a joy to follow: not too steep but varied, with enough minor difficulties to keep you entertained and two exceptional spots on the way”. Better than slogging up Mellbreak, anyway.

Thus ends my jolly around the foothills of a less-frequented corner of the Lake District: I cannot recommend these trails highly enough – each one a joy in its own way, not scaling the dizzy, windy, cold heights but exploring the fells and the lakes from a less elevated height. As I have said elsewhere, the best views are not necessarily from the tops of mountains and, now that I’m 73, I shall be doing a lot more of this ‘half-way up hiking’ in future: upcoming trips this year to Wenlock Edge & the Clee Hills (Shropshire), Corsica, Valmalenco (near Piz Bernina), Macugnaga (near Monte Rosa) and La Gomera (Canary Islands), hopefully all trails less trodden.