Vol. III Issue XI www.ulsanpear.biz May 2007 The Whale Museum Ilsan Beach The Lotte Wheel and more inside...

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Cover photo by JasonTeale FREE Ulsan’s 2nd Annual Charity Flea Market May 27th 무료 2 THE ulsan Pear

Hello Pear Readers,

As the weather slowly heats up, you can feel that spring is giving way to summer. As the weather changes, so too does things in our lives. Emergency Contact Numbers The Pear is going through a transition time right now. We’re saying goodbye to two valuable contributors, Deirdre Madden and Nicole Shirray. They are both hard working, dedicated individuals who did speak very slowly, and clearly. their best to improve life for you, the ex-pats of Ulsan. They will be sadly missed.

Do not panic, ask for English We’re also welcoming some new staff members. Say hello to Dan Gauthier, Shawn Hines, and Amanda Schimunek.

Ambulance 구급(Gu-Guep) On a final note, there is the 2nd Annual Ulsan Charity Flea Market 119 Fire 화재 (Hwa-Jay) on May 27th. Thanks to the hard work of the Pear’s Jason Teale, and Troy MacDonald of Benchwarmers, the event promises to be an excellent one, so be sure to make it out. 112 Police 경찰 (Gyeong-Chal) Thanks as always for reading, Kevin Forman 1366 Women Emergency CAll Editor-in-Chief

00799 International Operator ™ the Ulsan Pear Established 2004

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[email protected] THE ulsan Pear 3 In All It’s Grandeur ..The Ulsan Whale Museum

Shawn Hines Outside the museum, there is a The Ulsan Pear whaling ship that was constructed in 1977 and was decommissioned Ulsan is home to the Jangsaengpo in 1986, when whaling was Whale Museum south of Samsan- banned internationally. You dong. You can ride bus 246 that have the opportunity to explore will drop you off almost right in and crawl through the inside of front of the museum. the ship. Additionally there is a nice deck on the backside of the As a big whale fan, I had a difficult museum giving a wonderful view time walking through this of the Hyundai harbor. museum. It focuses on the early whaling industry that put Ulsan If you have some time on a City on the map in the early to weekend, hop the bus and travel mid 70’s. I was expecting to see a down to the museum. If you want museum dedicated to whales and to do some exploring before going found a museum that described to the museum, the web address Photo by Kevin Forman how whales where caught and is http://www.whalemuseum. processed for their meat. to equipment that was used for The entrance fee for the museum the days when whales where go.kr/eng/index.html. Take a look processing whale meat. From the is 1,000 won for adults, 500 won captured and processed, it does around, and the next time you The museum is located on the museum, you might be able to for children, and 700 won for have an impressive amount of happen across some whale meat, northern shore of the bay leading see whales during the migrating youth. It’s open from 9:30 am to information on various types of just say no. into Ulsan in the Nam-gu district. season as they travel up (or down) 6 pm each day according to the whales, what their diet is, and There are three floors of exhibits the coastal waters. website. Photos can be taken their migration habits. [email protected] ranging from prehistoric carvings with permission, which is easily asked.

The 1st floor is the kid’s hall that shows a large whale skeleton and parts of a whale. Also included is some history of the whaling industry and some of the tools that were used. The second floor is the whaling history hall, which is where the ticket office is located as well. The 3rd floor shows models of the Grey whale (Ghost whale) and showcases the parts of the whale and its food sources.

While the museum displays many items and pictures from 4 THE ulsan Pear Stress Relief Is A Walk Around Ulsan Grand Park

Justin Zinck Contributor

Being one of the many foreigners living and working within Ulsan, I can certainly relate to the stress and drudgery of everyday life here. Fortunately, I live and work in Ok-dong where stress relief is a mere walk through the park. By park I literally mean Ulsan Grand Park, which I believe to be the city’s ‘Pearl’.

Near the second gate, (close to the Gongup-tap Rotary) is a lovely Korean bell. This is the site where many Koreans and foreigners alike come to ring in the New Year every January 1st with a concert and fireworks and the annual ringing of the bell. Also, during Christmas, the park’s main walk- way is lit up with thousand of mini-lights, covering the trees and the windmill, a breath taking sight Photo by Jason Teale that must not be missed. on your point of view, is a little in the park, but nonetheless it let my cautious tone turn you off; There are two entrances to the Adjacent to the bell, be it the known walking trail. The trail is is there, hidden like a ‘diamond this trail is lovely and the more bottom level of the monument beginning or the end depending not located on any of the maps in the rough’. Look for the brick difficult portions include side rails which allow you to go under the set in semi-circles to the left of to hold on to. Also, if you do not site to a tiny museum located the bell that make large steps; want to stay on the trail through inside. This museum holds war they are the beginning of the to the end there and many exits relics and some pictures of Ulsan trail. Before venturing onto this along the way, one near the war during the events of the conflict. hiking trail please note, this trail monument and another near the is not for the faint of heart. Even kid’s traffic park. With so much to offer and such a though older/retired people are beautiful location, in my opinion often seen traversing this trail, The War Monument is a large the Ulsan Grand Park is the most be prepared for a workout that is impressive stone spire and it can be beautiful location located in the well worth the effort once you see easily seen from the main walking core of the Metropolis. I urge the view from the lookouts. On area of the park, sticking out all my fellow foreigners to take a good day the entire trail may above the trees. This monument is advantage of this mostly free park take 2 hours. Wear good boots or very impressive and very patriotic. and all it has to offer. sneakers because this trail is well There are three levels to this worn and in certain sections it can monument; the bottom allows [email protected] be very steep and slippery. Do not you to enter the monument. Photo by Justin Zinck THE ulsan Pear 5 Stress Relief Is A Walk Around Ulsan Grand Park 6 THE ulsan Pear

Korean Cuisine : Gamjatang The Woman on the Beach

Justin Zinck should be enough time for the dish to be Chris Linton themselves with other people, the pettiness Contributor ready to eat. Contributor of these dealings and the consequences.

My first encounter with this delectable The technique for consuming this dish It has been quite a few months Hong is critical of the Korean male and delight was when my director took my varies, all that truly matter is the enjoyment without a review from here, often portrays men as indulgent, childish girlfriend and I out for our first Korean of the dish. The way I have observed the but it is good to be back. This buffoons. He is critical of women too meal, five months ago, and I have been consumption of this dish and have thus column has two alternating but the characters are never as asinine. hooked on it ever since. adapted for myself as follows. Once the dish goals: to review exceedingly “The Woman on the Beach” is quite is ready to eat, put one of the pork bones popular Korean movies which entertaining but it is also frustrating to The restaurant where we frequently go on your dish and consume the meat along Corner Koreans will recommend, and watch because the portrayals are so honest to eat this delight is located in Ok-dong, with some broth and cabbage. Finally once to suggest some great Korean and accurate. The males pout and posture called, what else, but Gam Ja Tang, On all the pork has been consumed, pour the films which may or may not and it is maddening though entertaining the main street of Ok-dong, going towards remaining broth into you bowls and mix be so popular. This month in a manner. It may explain why he is not , simply walk past the Lotteria and with rice. I have seen many variations of we return to one of Korea’s very popular in Korea but highly regarded the Art Box, and look for the white sign. For this, including one where fried rice is made most notorious film makers, abroad. Korean novices, Hong Sang-su and his latest like me, to locate film,“The Woman on the A Hong Sang-su movie is very simple in a Gam Ja Tang Beach” or “Hae Byun Eui story and direction. Hong makes movies restaurant, simply

Cinema Yeo-in.” with one camera, with ready-made sets and look for the white with the same actors and characters. His sign with the URL It must be said, right off the movies do not overlap in story but they www.gamjatang. bat, that this is not a film are often concerned with nearly identical com at the bottom which many Koreans have characters: men with jobs in the film of it. I have been seen. Hong is well known in industry and the women they meet. told there are Korea but his films are not. He many locations has been making movies for If films can be quaint, and they can, Hong of this restaurant ten years and many have said Sang-su is one of the greats of contemporary across Ulsan. that his best works are behind quaint social commentary. Check out “The

Korean Korean him (“The Day A Pig Fell In Woman on the Beach” and if you like it This dish, to the Well,” “The Power of you can readily pick up his previous two f r e q u e n t l y Gangwan Province,” “Oh, Soo-jung “) but movies at any video store. No, he is not translated as Pork this is a pessimistic view for such a young really popular but his European success Bone Soup, is director. “The Woman on the Beach” is makes him a point of pride and, therefore, often served in a signature Hong Sang-su movie, a film thankfully, widely distributed. 3 sizes: small, Photo by Jason Teale which can be identified a mile away as a medium and large. Hong piece. Thus, it is not a movie which [email protected] Medium was more most people want to watch after then enough for my girlfriend and I. The with the remaining broth, but this way work. Here is why. soup is a mildly spicy broth containing, seems to be the simplest. what else, bones of pork with substantial “The Woman on the Beach” meat upon the bone, and cabbage greens So, foreigners of Ulsan, get out there and is about two men vying for which adds a unique flavor to the entire try a bowl (or two) of Gamjatang on one of the attention of a woman. It is dish. Like many Korean delights, you must these chilly winter nights, I guarantee you quintessential Hong Sang-su. Yet, allow the pot to simmer over the element will feel warm and refreshed afterwards. in keeping with Hong’s overall once they bring it to you from the kitchen. vision, neither man really wants [email protected] I would say about half a bottle of soju the woman anymore than the woman really wants either of the men. The two men are trying to sleep with her and she seems resolved to sleep with one of them. It is a very trite situation but Hong keeps it interesting, humorous and even provocative. “The Woman on the Beach” expands beyond that initial night on the beach and its first three characters, but Green Printing does not stray far. It is about the indulgences which people allow THE ulsan Pear 7

the reverse is also true. In the areas Around Ulsan: No Walk In The Park I went to where a community The Woman on the Beach center was, the park was generally Stuart Lewis assumed that if the neighborhood associate and play there, but I have I learned that many parks in the clean and a positive feeling was Contributor “dong” office and police station yet to see a family having a picnic, area have a group that offers to be evident. In other areas, a sense of were right next door, the playing badminton or doing any responsible (at least unofficially) disinterest and a negative attitude Although Ulsan is widely known neighborhood playground would of the other usual family activities. for keeping the area clean and safe, was dominant. As a result these for being an established industrial be well looked after by the city However, now that the weather and controlling negative elements. places tended to result in dirty, city, Ulsan has many aspects that of Ulsan. I guess it doesn’t pay to has warmed up, the neighborhood Although the “go stop” element unsafe and completely unappealing are attractive and picturesque. make assumptions. “soju gang” has started to take was there, there were not countless in every way. As well as the widely publicized up residence (at least on the broken bottles around and the “Twelve Scenic Areas of Ulsan”, My neighborhood’s public weekends) in the pagodas around. playground was a safe place for Although the proverb “When in the amazing Ulsan Grand Park playground brings to mind I can always be sure to count on all. With a few other stops in Rome, do as the Romans do” is and the beautiful area adjacent more memories of the Rodney them to be either passed out next between, my final two stops were very applicable in many aspects to the KBS art hall, there are King riots in LA than those of to their green bottles, or playing in Daldong and Mugeodong. In of living in a foreign country, just lots of other places to take your my childhood. In addition to “go stop” and yelling obscenities each of these playgrounds, the because those around may seem to girlfriend/boyfriend or family the broken soju and beer bottles at each other while my three year area was clean and seemingly well have little respect for their home or on the weekend and enjoy the all over the stone pathways and old son is climbing on the jungle cared for. Strangely enough, next community, doesn’t mean we need beauty of nature in Korea’s gym. to each of these was an important to follow suit. In the same way as biggest industrial city. The Good... Unfortunately, most of At first I thought And The Bad. these areas are on the “road I might be being well traveled”, and would too critical, so I usually be best suited for decided to check a weekend excursion or a out some of the day off. As far as simply parks/playgrounds having a coffee in a public in Ulsan. As well as park with a friend or the one close to my taking the kids out to the current residence, playground after school, (in ByeongYeong, Ulsan’s public parks often not far from the tend to be a completely McDonalds) I different side of the coin. decided to look at a couple of Having lived in South others. The first I Korea for a while, a couple chose was one in of years ago, I made the WooJeongdong, choice to eliminate my about a block “no permanent residence” Photo by Jason Teale away from the Photo by Jason Teale status and put down the HanGyo, an “key money” for my own place. the sand play area, it is graced ancient Korean school complex Besides the apartment itself and with garbage and construction that is now a landmark in Ulsan. community building such as a I was taught about nature, I’ve the obvious financial aspects, a lot leftovers including spray paint Although this too was not a park church or school. People were started to do at my community of different factors were important and other combustible items from out of a Disney film and had its out talking, playing and generally park, trying to leave the place in the area we chose, such as the the nearby apartment complex negative points, one interesting enjoying themselves. cleaner than I found it. Maybe location of schools, shopping and in progress. Finally, as awkward point was the fact that this park the sight of a foreigner walking the like. However, one area I did centerpieces, a smashed television is adjacent to a senior citizens Perhaps the most important thing around picking up broken bottles not look at closely enough was and stereo system lay shattered at center, and is taken care of by this park-hopping taught me is will raise a few eyebrows. the suitability of the parks and the bottom of the slide. As far as the community members. While that although people tend to be playgrounds in the area. I simply people go, the usual groups of kids talking to members of this center, products of their environment, [email protected] 8 THE ulsan Pear Coney Island Meets Korea: A Day at Ilsan Beach

Amanda Schimunek fire-roasted sweet potatoes, go see And if you walk toward the The Ulsan Pear the sweet potato vendor at Ilsan ocean on the main street, Beach. He’ll hook you up with you’ll find the best-kept secret Step right up! Step right up! Test a big bag for 3,000 won; they’re of Ilsan Beach nightlife: a your strength! Take your best shot delicious and fun to peel and eat second-floor sojubang in the and win a prize! Whether you while you walk around and check last building on the left. It go by day or by night, there is a everything out. doesn’t look like much from carnival of fun right under your the outside, but inside is nose at Ilsan Beach. There are public restrooms under where it gets interesting. the big triangle (you can’t miss For less it) and from there it’s The entire seating area is t h a n about a 20- actually a huge fish tank. As 3 , 0 0 0 you enjoy your beverages and w o n , snacks, hundreds of you can brightly colored fish play air swim right under you. There’s even a plastic alligator to float by and scare you occasionally. You can order kiwi and grape soju (kiwi is kiwi, Photo by Amanda Schimunek but grape is “podo” in Korean) and whatever you order to drink comes with a nice spread of side dishes. The service is great and there’s a view of the water. In the summer, the floor- to-ceiling windows open to let in the ocean breeze. Photo by Amanda Schimunek hockey, get a The best part of this package, slushie, drive go-carts, hit however, is the price. Service for the batting cages, practice your two, which includes two pitchers shooting aim, throw darts at minute walk up to of flavored soju plus refills on balloons, and sample a variety of Ulgi Lighthouse and Daewangam side dishes, will cost you about video games and cheap thrills. Yes, Rock, which are among the twelve 10,000 won. How can you beat there is a claw machine. It’s only scenic places to see in Ulsan. The that? The next time you’re feeling 500 won, and you know you want path up to these two sights is lined bored, drag yourself and some to. There aren’t too many things with more food vendors, games, friends down to Ilsan Beach; a better than a grape slushie and a and little shops. good time is guaranteed to find Photo by Amanda Schimunek game of air hockey at the beach. you. When it gets dark, you can buy Of course, the question on fireworks from almost any vendor everyone’s mind is: What’s the age and set them off right on the beach. [email protected] limit for the go-carts? Well, there If you’re thirsty for more, you’ll isn’t one. Adults are more than find that Ilsan Beach is home to a welcome to make complete fools number of bars and nightspots. of themselves in miniature tanks… and why not eat a corn dog while doing so?

A f t e r Photo by Amanda Schimunek sundown, Ilsan Beach comes alive with vendors offering an a w e s o m e a s s o r t m e n t of street food. You can get roasted chestnuts, corn on the cob, and bundaegi ( o t h e r w i s e known as s i l k w o r m larvae, a Korean f a v o r i t e ) . I f Photo by Amanda Schimunek you’ve never tried Photo by Amanda Schimunek THE ulsan Pear 9 Coney Island Meets Korea: A Day at Ilsan Beach Riding the Lotte Wheel...Loads of Fun For All! Jim Saunders Samsandong with their The Ulsan Pear smoke appearing from behind the hills. See the It’s always there, illuminating the way to Bangeojin, with the morning, afternoon and night sky, ships sitting in the Taehwa the iconic Lotte Wheel. It’s also estuary. Look out towards something that many seem to put Mugeodong for the best off doing in the city. You’ll walk by view with mountains it so many times throughout your beginning out in the stay here that an attitude of “it’ll distance. Look over Shinae be done eventually” prevails. and up towards Bukbu for the urban sprawl. When the time finally comes to see the view from the top, of Korea’s With clear weather it’s “highest height” attraction (at 106 worthy of the admission metres), actually going up and onto price. the wheel is a rather simple affair. Ride the elevators just inside the Upon finishing a ride, if doors to the right of the 7/11 to you have kids, the motley the seventh floor and be deposited collection of amusements out onto a slightly sad, dated and await; a train, a pirate jaded roof top amusement park. ship and merry-go-round. Tickets are purchased from the Given the quality of them booth to your left (2,500 won for though it’s best to steer the wheel only). clear.

Some rules to abide by before Depending on the hour embarking: Number one, don’t of day loud, intrusive romp. Number two: “enjoy Lotte techno music pumps from Wheel attraction with your family speakers across the roof and lover” - which depending top – which can spoil the on your interpretation of the ambience somewhat. translation could mean both at the same time. It is an attraction then that can wait in Ulsan. Up to four people fit into a pod It’s not spectacular but that is equipped with heating/ there are decent views. air conditioning, binoculars and Choose a good day with an a radio. Comfortable it is, but option for coffee or food perhaps not for four. For a special afterwards. It makes for couple, well, it’s just fine. a nice itinerary with your family and/or lover in tow. A full rotation of the wheel is It’s “Everyday happy day” around fifteen minutes, which is on the Lotte Wheel! enough time to take in the four distinct directions of Ulsan. The [email protected] industrial districts sit so close to Photo by Jim Saunders 10 THE ulsan Pear The Pear’s Events Calendar FOR May 2007 THE CUT-OUT & KEEP GUIDE TO FORTHCOMING EVENTS ACROSS ULSAN Events Calendar Contact Information PHOTO OF THE MONTH Buddha Statue at Namhae by Ryan Schwab Tombstone Jeff @ 010-2870-6626

Benchwarmers Troy @ 010-9961-7647

Writer’s Group Dee @ [email protected]

Wonshot Wanderers F.C. Phillip @ 011-9322-3629

Martial Arts Training Events Calendar Guide Ki Mizu Ryu Martial Arts Certified Belts and Certificates Sports English Instruction www.imasgroup.us Bar Activities [email protected] Free Alcohol! Photo of the month is a contest sponsored by Benchwarmers. Each winner receives a 20,000won tab. Send your photo to: [email protected] Culture Ulsan Tigers Soccer home Artistic shots or Konglish signs are welcome as submissions. games played at Munsu Stadium Other

MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 1 2 3 4 5 6 Writer’s Group @ Mc- Spanish Film Viewing Wonshot Wanderers Kenzie’s 10:30pm (see April issue Online) Game 8:40pm @ Ul- san University Pitch View Prints of the Works of Italian Masters May 5th to June 20th at Hyundai Arts Center Gallery

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Viewing Wonshot Wanderers Pub Quiz @ (see April issue Online) Game 2pm @ Mipo Benchwarmers 8pm Pitch Ulsan Tigers Home Game 3pm Wonshot Wanderers Game 2pm @ Archery Pitch 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Writer’s Group @ Mc- Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Ulsan Pear Submission Wonshot Wanderers Kenzie’s 10:30pm Viewing(see April issue Deadline! Game 11:40am @ Online) Nongso Pitch Family Concert May 18th @ Hyundai Arts Center 8pm Tickets 1,000 won

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Viewing Ulsan Tigers Home Pub Quiz @ (see April issue Online) Game 5pm Benchwarmers 8pm Wonshot Wanderers Game 7pm @ Ulsan University Pitch

28 29 30 31 Writer’s Group @ Mc- Poker @ Tombstone Kenzie’s 10:30pm Latin Dance Class at Hyo Jung Dance Academy in Mugeo Dong Marion Ramirez from Puerto Rico. Thursdays 9:30pm -10:30pm Fridays 10:30 am- 12pm [email protected]

Writers Group @ McKenzie’s Bar: Share your short stories, Running poetry and music. Or just come and listen. [email protected] Hash House Harriers meet every second Paintball Mountain Bike Club - UMTBC Sunday at the The Ulsan Ugly Playboy Rugby Rock Climbing - Most Saturdays Can organize paintball days for Jung Sang Young, Samchuly Bicycle Foreigners compound in Team are back. Interested? Con- and some mornings. groups of twenty-five to thirty. Bangeojin at 10am. between Gongeobtap and Taewha tact Benchwarmers at ulsanrockclimbing@googlegroups. Contact Benchwarmers. Rotaries. 052-260-3000. [email protected] com THE ulsan Pear 11 Take a Breath of Fresh Air at Hakseong Park

Ryan Schwab park there are several monuments Silla era. It is the oldest bell-shaped At an elevation of approximately Hakseong Park is also a great place Contributor commemorating the battles that stupa in the nation and depicts the 50 meters, the top of the park is to simply sit and view the diverse have taken place between the 12 oriental zodiac animal heads just high enough to rise above activities of Ulsan’s citizens. On Hakseong Park is less of a foreign occupiers and ancient with human bodies. the smog and exhaust fumes that any given evening, the top of the mountain and more of a really big Ulsanites. However, the most well blanket our fair city, and provides hill abounds with happy young hill in the middle of metropolitan known monument in the park is a But if monuments and stupas aren’t a refreshing break for the lungs. people in love, happy old people Ulsan. This historically significant bell-shaped stupa that is believed your cup of tea, then you can visit There are several different paths swilling soju, people playing site was once the location of a to have been carved around the Hakseong Park for arguably its that lead to the top of the park and sports, praying, or teenagers taking Japanese fortress and within the 9th century, during the late unified most valuable treasure – fresh air. combined with the several hundred a break from their busy schedules steps it takes to get to there, the to simply hang out with friends. climb makes for a great workout. The park is roughly located at The humble summit of Hakseong 67 Hakseong-dong Junggu, or Park is also well treed and allows down the street from the E- for a romantic panoramic view of Mart department store (formerly the city. There is also some fitness Walmart). In the middle of an equipment, including those giant industrial metropolitan city, hula-hoops, for those who are Hakseong Park is a refreshing inclined to supplement their fresh elevated oasis. Check it out, your air with a little additional outdoor lungs will thank you. exercise. [email protected]

Photos by Jason Teale 12 THE ulsan Pear Volunteering In Ulsan : Easter Feast of Love 2007

Colin Neilson work planning the decorations to come, but not everyone had The senior pastor of the church, celebrated the season together in Contributor for the hall, and posting posters transportation, Taehwa Church along with several church elders, harmony. The food was wonderful, and handing out invitations all provided a free shuttle service to arrived to lead the group in and the company even better. What do you get when you bring over Ulsan. Many student groups the event, again organized and prayers of thanksgiving, and the people from thirteen different posted information about the operated by volunteers who just English Music team lead everyone Thanks to the efforts of a number nations and at least three different events on websites dedicated to wanted to make sure the event was in a series of joyful songs while of volunteers from around the faiths together in one room? On different national groups living everything it could be. everyone waited for all to arrive. world all living in our fair city, the

April 8th, 2007 at Taehwa Church in Ulsan. Many students from the When the dinner itself started, event was a complete success. U lsan in Ulsan, you get the second annual University of Ulsan, which boasts At 5:00 on April eighth, the hall there were about 60 people filling Easter Feast of Love. Organized a large population of foreign was already bustling, and more the hall. In these days of tension, mistrust, by Pastor Kevin Pope, this now students, spread the word among people were arriving. Due to and often outright hatred, it is very annual event brings Koreans their different groups. English some traffic problems, one of Among the attendance were nice to see people coming together together with foreigners living teachers passed along information the buses was late, so the event people from America, Australia, to show that we can resolve our in Ulsan for a time of fellowship at popular hang-outs for foreign began with a short worship service Bangladesh, Canada, China, India, differences and live in peace with and community worthy of the workers in the city. People city- to celebrate Easter, the time of Korea, Mongolia, New Zealand, each other, no matter where we holiday. wide were busy letting everyone Jesus’ resurrection and more Pakistan, The Philippines, come from, what we look like, or know what was coming. Since generally Spring time, a time of Russia and Thailand. Every one what we may believe. ou t Of Organizing an event of this many people in the city wanted reawakening and rejuvenation. sat together, ate together, and nature is no small task. A group of volunteers met at 3:00 to begin preparing the hall in Taehwa Church, which was used just moments prior for a Sunday English worship service. Thanks to the help of several hard workers, tt in g both Korean and foreign, the hall quickly took shape and looked festive. Balloons hung from the Ge ceiling and walls, colored papers and decorations adorned every table, and many symbols of rebirth and rejuvenation from around the world were hung to remind participants of Spring and Easter. The dinner itself was a catered all you can eat buffet, but even there volunteer efforts were seen. Since some of the celebrants were Muslim and Hindu, some special dietary restrictions had to be accommodated. As such, Kevin Pope worked in advance preparing Halal and vegetarian dishes for all.

In the days leading up to the event, volunteers were hard at Photo by Kevin Pope THE ulsan Pear 13 Volunteering In Ulsan : Easter Feast of Love 2007 Planes Trains and Buses...How to Escape from Ulsan

Shawn Hines Attached to the department store to have some knowledge of the to change The Ulsan Pear is the Ulsan Express Bus Terminal. or take a Korean trains at These buses are mainly for the friend to translate, the destination Dong- A kind of silly title for long hauls like , Daegu, and fare board is entirely Korean. Station to a daunting subject. Cheonan. There are three price the KTX. Planes, trains & buses levels for each bus, Ordinary (the If buses are a bit too slow for your Currently the make up the major cheapest), Special (a bit more needs, try the Ulsan Train Station. station has

U lsan travel choices for expensive, but has less seats on Telling the cab, “Ulsan Yuk”, will a paper that

Korea, and knowing a bus and more comfort) and get you there. The train station states trains, how to use them can the Midnight Special. A trip to offers many destinations around departure and mean the difference Seoul on an Ordinary bus will Korea, going north or south. The arrival times between having cost 19,700 won, a Special bus station has three types of trains; as well as spending money and is 29,300 won and the Midnight links to the KTX, which is the destinations, just spending a lot of Express costs 32,200 won. fastest train traveling to some of but it’s in your money. the major stops. The Saemaeul, Korean. (I Across the street, is the Ulsan which is the medium speed train, am currently ou t Of Buses are the Intercity Bus Terminal. This the Mugungwha, the slowest train. trying to

cheapest of the terminal has buses for all other While the KTX offers speed, you redo the page three transportation destinations in Korea. The price sacrifice some comfort. Both the in English choices available. range for these buses can vary Saemaeul and Mugungwha are for future They offer a depending upon time of year or more comfortable and roomy, but travelers…) comfortable ride in holiday, so be aware that ticket stop more often along the way. For relative peace, while prices do change. It would be good destinations north, you may have the prices The prices for

tt in g Photo by Shawn Hines are more a Saemaeul or e a s i l y Mugungwha you can rent a car through Avis affordable train are comparable with bus or Hertz, but you must have an Ge for those prices. If you are looking for faster international driver’s license with on a tight budget. The travel time, this may be your you. Also there is a tourist desk downside is time; to best choice. During busy seasons that has many of the Ulsan City go from point to point or holidays, it is much better to guides, maps and even copies of may take a bit longer. buy your ticket early as the prices The Ulsan Pear! If time isn’t a worry, change drastically depending upon this would be the best your destination. With all the opportunities for choice. Ulsan has two sightseeing, Ulsan has some bus stations; both are If you’re traveling to Seoul or points great choices for modes of travel. located next to the Lotte outside Korea, the Ulsan Airport Whether you take a plane, train, or Department Store in has Asiana or Korea Air flights to bus, you will surely be comfortable Samsan-Dong. (Telling China, the Philippines, Japan and and won’t have sell a kidney to get a cab driver, “Lotte other points beyond. Tell a cab where you are going. Beck-wha-jom” will get driver, “Ulsan gong hang”. Both you there. Watch for airlines offer pamphlets that have the big ferris wheel.) flights and departure times and [email protected] Photo by Shawn Hines a price guide. Inside the airport 14 THE ulsan Pear Enjoying Fine Galbi Dining At Twins Restaurant Jim Saunders The Marinated neck (4,000 won), with a Galbi restaurant. These The Ulsan Pear the mainstay of the menu, is one sides seem to have an increased item that should be tried. Don’t quality about them, perhaps due It’s bright, busy and let the name put you off ordering to their presentation in the bowls. b u s t l i n g . W h i c h , - strips of tender meat dripping in Drinks remain fairly priced along with its cleanly the marinade barbecue juicily over ranging from 1,000 – 8,000 won. kept premises, is a the grill. It’s delicious. The meat is Beer and Soju start at an agreeable

R amyeon sure sign that there’s reminiscent of home and to some 3,000 won. something good it is the closest you’re going to get going on. Sprinkle in to a good steak without a trip to Given its location next to the some rather tender a western chain restaurant in the Hyundai Department Store and Galbi cuts, great city. behind the Arts Centre, it is a tasting side dishes and place foreigners can easily get to. a clientele consisting For those who want something Its foreigner friendly atmosphere of both Koreans and more substantial, marinated rib is what I particularly liked about Foreigners. Twins meat is available (from 15,000 Twins upon reflection. Restaurant is that little won). Other items include cold bit above the rest of noodles (4,000 won) and the Usually one of the biggest hurdles Beyond the Galbi restaurants obligatory plain rice in a bowl a foreigner has to over come upon in Bangeojin. (1,000 won). The price includes all meeting Korean food for the first of the side dishes usually associated time is its seemingly inherent spiciness. The meat itself is not spicy. Some of the side dishes are, but you can pick and choose which ones you eat. Because of this, Twins serves as a gentle introduction to food here. A halfway house, so to speak, between the extremes of spice.

Yet it’s not just an introduction the Photos by Jim Saunders country’s food but And even if you’ve been here a Getting there: Twins has two also of eating etiquette while then it is still a great place locations. The one reviewed here and dining style. The to go eat. is located directly behind the relaxed atmosphere Hyundai Arts Centre with one is especially useful if Mrs. Choi Hyun-sook, the more restaurant at Ilsan Beach. out with Korean co- owner, talks about giving a good Telephone (052) 201-7666 or workers or colleagues, atmosphere and delicious meat. (052) 235-6766. Urgent? Reach wanting to make a good Herself and her army of staff Twins on their cell-phone 010- impression. Long legs? deliver on this talk. Twins earns 3877-1929. Don’t worry. Tables itself a positive recommendation. Photo by Kevin Forman and chairs are available. [email protected] THE ulsan Pear 15 Enjoying Fine Galbi Dining At Twins Restaurant Come and Experience a World Taste of China at Chai Kevin Forman pot of Chinese tea. You can The Ulsan Pear add some of the steamed Chinese bread (no beans Coming to the Far East, one inside!) for just 4,000 won. would expect a variety of different On the evening that I visited, Asian foods to be prevalent in my dining companion and I Korea. However, it is sometimes tried a peanut based chicken difficult to find authentic Chinese dish, and a more Koreanised food in Ulsan. Fortunately, Chai Chinese dish, jjam-bong. solves this particular problem The chicken dish featured quite nicely. a variety of vegetables, as well as generous amounts of Located in Samsandong, Chai chicken and peanuts. The employs chefs who have been jjam-bong was fairly typical imported from China to prepare of the fare you’d find in a the delicious and varied cuisine. Korean Chinese restaurant, except that it was not the Photo by Jason Teale With a goal of providing a middle slightest bit spicy. the customer satisfied, the food menus as the present time. As If you’re looking for a more style Chinese food (not too can be made so that it will not such, knowledge of Korean or traditional Chinese dining expensive but not too cheap) your Therein lies one of the best points sear your tastebuds. The chicken dining with a Korean friend is experience, Chai is the place to dining experience begins with a of Chai. In an attempt to make dish has a great deal of small chili recommended, unless you’re an go in Ulsan. peppers, and probably would have adventurous sort. been just as tasty without them. [email protected] The restaurant also has some menu items that are suitable for a vegetarian diet, so none of your party will be left out.

The restaurant is a bit pricey, and it is better for groups to go and share dishes. They offer course dinners, and they also have a lunch menu that starts at 9,000 won. The lunch menu is available from 11 am to 3 pm, Monday to Friday.

Chai is open 7 days a week, from 11 am to 4 am. It is located across the road from the back entrance to Lotte Cinema. The front door is red, and Chai can be recognized by it’s lack of flashing neon lights.

It should be noted that the Photo by Kevin Forman restaurant has no English Photo by Kevin Forman THE ulsan Pear 16 So Long, and Thank you Ulsan Next Issue: Deirdre Madden as visitors, we make an impression true; Korean often ignore you, or The Ulsan Pear on the Korean people. Sadly, all are downright rude to you if you Foreign Correspondent too often it’s an impression of are just a stranger on the street. drunken or obnoxious Waygooks But if you stop to talk, or are As I sit in the Foreign harassing the locals. We should introduced, you will be welcomed Correspondents Club in Phnom make an attempt to leave a good into the fold. I’ve often found Penh, Cambodia, I have time impression on our hosts, by myself being fed ramyeon or soju to reflect upon my two years in becoming involved in our host by strangers just because I took the Korea, and realize the life lessons community. This can be by taking time to stop and ask a question. I learned there. martial art or dance classes, or it can be through volunteering at the My final advice is to take advantage Fun doesn’t just happen. If you local orphanage or soup kitchen. of your little time off, and explore wish to fully enjoy the time spent the country around you. Korea living in a foreign country, you The other side of this is that as is nothing if not full of surprises. must put some effort into it. visitors we should realize that not From the wonders of nature to Join in the activities and events everyone here speaks our language peaceful temples in remote valleys coordinated by the other ex-pats but that is OUR problem, not to a tiny shop in a back alley of or get out there and put on an theirs. If I can’t communicate some random small town that event yourself. my needs to the ajumma at the sells exactly the thing you’ve been supermarket, it’s my fault for not looking for for ages, you just have If you’ve got an idea but don’t know learning to speak Korean, not hers to look and you’ll find it. how to get it started, try asking for not knowing English. the people who’ve been around a In two years in Ulsan I’ve seen while, like Troy at Benchwarmers Appreciate the amount of English many people come and go. Some or the Tombstone guys. They’re that is offered here, and then try to leave with happy memories and always very supportive of people learn to read (very easy) and speak even some reluctance, and others who want to make Ulsan a fun (not very easy) some Korean so can’t seem to get on the plane fast place to be. that you can better interact with enough. The difference between the world you’re living in. these two groups is the first The Ulsan Pear was started by learned to make the most of their one guy who had an idea, and If you want to know about Korea, time here, and the second just Get Out There! then rounded up some friends befriend a Korean. If you take a complained about how it wasn’t who were willing to help. Joel left Gumdo class, join a rock climbing like home. Being Active. Ulsan nearly 3 years ago now, but gym, or join any type of organized The theme of our June issue is the Pear is still trooping on. Why activity with a shared interest, So make the decision to be part Know something fun to do? A really exciting place to visit? An ac- not leave your mark on Ulsan you will have an automatic pass of the first group, and have fun, tivity that you want to share with others? Then tell us all about it! by doing something people will into a genuine Korean experience. make friends and explore the All contributions are welcome, and other topics will be accepted as remember fondly? Friends of mine who studied world around you. You didn’t get well. martial arts have been invited into on a plane and fly for a day to be Possibly the most important lesson circles of friends, and had amazing in a place just like home. I have learned and re-learned in my experiences most of us miss out Please send 500 words (and an accompanying photograph) time in Korea is that we are guests on. A Korean man once told me [email protected] to [email protected] before May 19th. If you have any in someone else’s home. There are that Koreans are very shy, but are questions, please feel free to ask! two sides to this. One side is that very friendly. I’ve found this to be