Aston Rowant National Nature Reserve Welcome to National Nature Reserve

What do you know about red kites, orchids and Nature’s lawnmowers? Their stories are just some of the discoveries waiting to be revealed to you as you explore the reserve.

Aston Rowant National Nature Reserve (NNR) lies on the north western scarp of the , within the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) overlooking the Vale of .

The NNR is characteristic of a Chilterns landscape. The majority of the NNR is chalk grassland, which is full of colourful wildflowers and insects. The remainder of the site includes areas of mixed scrub such as bramble and hawthorn, areas of juniper, and ancient beech woodland. © Natural /Jenny Crook Our wildlife treasure chests

There are over 200 NNRs in England which are carefully managed to protect the most important areas of our countryside, Whilst these are homes for wildlife, they are also places for people, offering visitors a first- hand experience of nature.

Nature’s lawnmowers

Grazing animals have been part of the Chiltern’s landscape for thousands of years. They are very effective at keeping wildflower-rich grassland in good condition and controlling the spread of young scrub, to stop it dominating grassland areas. We graze the reserve with around 300 speckle-faced beulah sheep, a small herd of feral (wild) goats, and sometimes cattle from neighbouring farms. © Natural England/Jenny Crook

In the right quantities, scrub can be good for wildlife as it provides food and a home for insects and birds. We have let some areas of scrub develop into taller, more dense patches, and these are managed manually by volunteers. A journey through time

Beneath most of the reserve lies approximately 100 metres of chalk. The chalk was formed about 350 million years ago from the compressed remains of microscopic sea creatures that lived in the warm, shallow seas that once covered this area.

Flint is another typical stone of the Chiltern Hills, which is much harder than chalk and was formed from silica in the remains of sponge-like creatures that also lived in the warm seas.

Human activity has been part of the Chiltern’s landscape for millennia. The is thought to have been in use for at least 3,000 years. During the construction of the M40, archaeologists unearthed a Saxon village and burial ground close to where junction 6 now stands and when the cutting was created, a Roman road was found which crossed over the ridge.

This history of human travel has created some striking features, such as the curious ‘sunken ways’ – remnants of eroded tracks that resemble wide-bottomed ditches. Like the M40 today, people used these ancient routes to travel through the landscape; farmers took their animals to market; merchants travelled between settlements with their wares; and woodsmen hauled timber and firewood down to the villages. It’s the pits!

The many pits and hollows on the reserve were once sawpits that turned timber into planks, or small quarry pits dug for flints used to build typical Chilterns houses and farm buildings.

Do you have time for wildlife?

We are always recruiting volunteers to help look after the site and assist with public events and school visits. Volunteers benefit from learning about conservation, developing new skills, keeping fit and also enjoying the social side of being part of a volunteer team. © Natural England

Volunteer installing juniper guards Learning through discovery

Aston Rowant has an exciting events programme with a unique range of interactive days out for all the family, which are often run in partnership with the Chilterns Conservation Board. Throughout the year you can find details of upcoming events on our notice boards.

We have produced a curriculum-linked teachers’ pack which is available on our website. The pack contains our popular Sensory Nature Trail which encourages children’s groups to get in touch with nature by using all their senses.

This place is for you, please look after it

Follow the countryside code, take litter home and leave gates as you find them. Keep dogs under control when walking amongst livestock. Please be considerate to others and clean up after your dog. Please do not have BBQs or campfires on site as they can damage the delicate chalk grassland. Leave the wild flowers for the butterflies and bees, and for others to enjoy. Please note that the site is for pedestrian access only unless otherwise marked. Travel

Why not leave your car at home and get to the site by public transport? If you are coming from Oxford or , take the ‘Oxford Tube’ bus and alight at , or if you’re coming by bus from High Wycombe, alight at Aston Hill.

If you do come by car, there are car parks on each side of the motorway. Our main car park is on the north side of the site and is signposted from the A40 near , whilst the car park is situated on the south of the motorway, and is shared with the Forestry Commission.

The Icknield Way which forms part of National Trail runs alongside the reserve and forms a link to a network of pathways within the site. When you have explored the reserve you could head down to Lewknor village to visit the information centre in St Margaret’s Church.

B4011 To Aylesbury

A418 M40 A4129 A40 A418 B4009 To B4445 Oxford Princes B4012 Risborough A329

A4010 B480 A40

y a M40 w e Aston HIGH g B4009 d Ri Rowant WYCOMBE To NNR B480 B482 Wallingford A4130 B481 0 5km

c Crown copyright. All rights reserved. A4155 Marlow Natural England 100046223 2009 B4009

Lewknor A40 Minor Road J6 Aston Hill Bridleway

Beacon Hill

Sunken Ways

P M40

Ridgeway Bald J5 Hill Beacon Hill Walk 250-275m Linky Down Walk 225-250m P 200-225m Old Road 175-200m Cowleaze Sheepcote Lane Walk 150-175m Wood Bald Hill Walk 0-150m Cherry Tree Walk Height above sea level Hill in metres Sunken Way Walk

This map is based upon Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office c Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and 0 500m may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. Natural England 100046223 2009

Get healthy at Aston Rowant NNR All 192 hectares of Aston Rowant NNR are open for exploration. The walks at Medical evidence shows that contact with Aston Rowant will help you towards the natural environment improves health your recommended 10,000 steps a day: and wellbeing, prevents disease and helps Beacon Hill walk is approximately people recover from illness. This evidence 2,440 steps also shows that experiencing nature in Linky Down walk is approximately the outdoors can help tackle childhood obesity, coronary heart disease, stress and 3220 steps. mental health problems. Spring The drumming of the woodpecker in the woodlands, trying to attract a mate is a sure sign that spring is on the way. The chiff-chaff is one of the first migrant birds to be heard on the reserve, and is named after its distinctive call. Keen birders should also look out for passage migrants such as wheatear and ring ouzel that can often be seen on Linky Down.

You will see a wide range of trees and shrubs in blossom in spring. These include the lovely white flowers of whitebeam and wayfaring tree; and the woods come to life with bluebells that were once thought to be enchanted – people believed that fairies were summoned by the ringing of bluebells. © Natural England/Dr Chris Gibson

Yellowhammer – can be spotted in hedgerows and singing on fence posts. Its song is said to sound like ‘Little bit of bread and no cheese’. Summer In summer, Aston Rowant NNR is the place to be. Breathe in the scent of thyme, basil and marjoram as you watch butterflies take to the air all around you. Amongst them are the silver spotted skipper – a small, rare butterfly, which is a strong, fast flyer; the chalkhill blue – an attractive silvery-blue butterfly that can be seen feeding from purple flowers; and the marbled white – a distinctive black and white butterfly that drops its eggs on the wing. © Natural England/John Martin

Common spotted orchid – can be found throughout the grassland, its colour can vary from white through to dark pink. Pyramidal, greater butterfly, frog, bee and fragrant orchids can also be found on the reserve. © Natural England/RG Silverwood

Chiltern gentian – in August and September there is a spectacular display of this nationally scarce plant. World’s smallest farms Examine the grassy bumps dotted over the grasslands to discover the world’s smallest farms, with the highest number of farmers and livestock! There are around 100,000 of these ‘farms’ on Aston Rowant; they are in fact ant-hills, many them are over a hundred years old.

The farmers are yellow meadow ants; workers which feed the colony by farming greenfly that live on the roots of plants that surround an ant hill. The greenfly suck up plant juices and turn them into a sugar rich honeydew which the ants ‘tickle’ out of them to feed to others.

Each ant hill has a queen which lays eggs continuously, and there are around 5,000 ants in each mound. We estimate that there are 500 million yellow meadow ants at Aston Rowant, and that’s not counting the 20 other types of ant that are present! © Natural England/Robert Barber Autumn Fungitastic! The name of our annual fungi foray says it all about Aston Rowant in the autumn. You can discover a range of fungi of all shapes and sizes from the spherical King Alfred’s cakes, through the range of delicate bonnets to the foul smelling stinkhorn. You are likely to see the common puffball which starts out covered in tiny warts that become a thin brown skin from which the spores erupt; or a spongy fungus called birch polypore that was once used to sharpen razor blades.

Autumn is also the time to see the brightly- coloured berries of whitebeam and hawthorn and glimpse ripening nuts on the hazel trees. You may see the redwing – an autumn/ winter visitor that feeds in fields and hedgerows and is often seen in flocks with fieldfare. © Natural England/Robert Barber

Porcelain fungus – Also known as poached egg fungus. It has a glistening white slimy cap. Winter Winter is here but the reserve is more alive than you might imagine! This is the best time to see birds of prey on the reserve and the more secretive woodland animals as the trees have lost their leaves. You can watch red kites all year round at Aston Rowant, although winter is the best time to see them.

The dark green of the yew tree is distinctive in the landscape even when covered in snow! The roe deer can occasionally be seen at dawn and dusk by quiet visitors and you may also spot herds of the larger fallow deer. Muntjac deer can be glimpsed in the wooded areas and their unusual ‘bark’ is often heard at dusk.

Juniper – a recovery programme for juniper is ongoing on the reserve as the bushes are home to many rare insects. The berries of juniper were once used to flavour gin or as an alternative to pepper. © Natural England/Robert Barber Red kites – an old friend back for good Red kites were once common across Great Britain, but they were hunted to extinction across England and Scotland by the end of the 20th century as people believed they were killing lambs and game birds. In fact, red kites are mainly scavengers, unable to kill anything larger than a young rabbit.

There are now over 300 pairs of red kites breeding in the Chilterns, following a 5 year re-introduction scheme that has proved a great success. © Natural England/Helen Olive

Other birds of prey The buzzard is slightly smaller than the and is dark brown in colour with a creamy white underside. The tail is fanned as opposed to the forked tail of the kite. Kestrels are much smaller and can be seen hovering over the downland. © Natural England/Paul Keen, Avico

Front cover photograph: Chalk Grassland © Chilterns Conservation Board

Natural England is here to conserve and enhance the natural environment, for its intrinsic value, the wellbeing and enjoyment of people and the economic prosperity that it brings. © Natural England 2009 ISBN 978-1-84754-135-6 Catalogue Code: NE169 www.naturalengland.org.uk Natural England publications are available as accessible pdfs from: www.naturalengland.org.uk/publications Should an alternative format of this publication be required, please contact our enquiries line for more information: 0845 600 3078 or email enquiries@ naturalengland.org.uk Printed on Defra Silk comprising 75% recycled fibre.