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South Georgia

South Georgia

SOUTH GEORGIA AND C heesemans’ e Cology s afaris eXPeDiTion log 2012 Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris EXPEDITION LOG Georgia and Falkland Islands 20 October to 9 November 2012

Aravind Krishnaswamy Carolyn Peterson Paul McKenzie Lesley Gretton Kjerstin Ferm Widlund Cindy Marple

Designed by Debbie Thompson and Kate Spencer Written by Dave Shoch, Pauline Carr, Joe Kaplan, Robert Rae and Kenneth Donaldson Images by Passengers and Staff “Goooooood morning shipmates. Partially cloudy, chance of rain.” The mellifluous tones of Ted, our expedition leader, drifted across the tannoy, announcing the start of our next day in this extraordinary place...

Cover Photo King Penguins at Right Whale Bay By Michael Viljoen

Back Cover Photo Risting Glacier at the end of Drygalski Fjord By Aravind Krishnaswamy

This Page Photo Elsehul ridgeline By Katrina Metherall

CoPYRIGHT NOTICE Copyright ©2013 Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris Photographers hold the copyright to their work.

ii Table of Contents Idntro uction

Introduction 1 For over twenty years, Cheesemans’ Ecology The Expedition 2 Safaris has operated the longest, most in-depth expeditions to the regions, a destina- Flights to Falklands and Embarkation 20 October 2 tion of supreme splendor and serenity that de- At Sea to 21 - 22 October 4 serves no less. We are honored that each of you South Georgia Island 6 chose to travel with us on this lifetime journey. Much time and effort was invested, most of it Elsehul 23 October 8 “behind the scenes,” to ensure that you have the Right Whale Bay and 24 October 10 same life altering experience that so many of Foruna Bay and Stromness 25 October 12 our previous expedition-mates declare. and 26 October 14 Our 25-day expedition started in , St. Andrew’s Bay 27 October 16 , on October 18, 2012 with 75 passengers and 13 expedition staff. On October 20 we arrived in Stanley, Falkland Islands, to board the Ushuaia, our home for the Drygalski Fjord and the South Coast 28 October 18 next 21 packed days. We explored wonderful South Georgia Island, our main ob- and Undine Harbour 29 October 20 jective, for ten days. Then it was on to Falkland Islands for three fast but full days. Salisbury Plain 30 October 22 We were sad to see our journey end on November 11, 2012, in Ushuaia, . Cooper Bay and 31 October 24 The success of an expedition is dependent on many factors including weather, sea and Right Whale Bay 1 November 26 conditions, and insightful planning. But the most important ingredient by far is the open attitude and persona of our expedition-mates. Our entire expedition staff At Sea to Falklands 2 - 4 November 28 is very grateful to each of you for making this a successful journey filled with spe- Falkland Islands 30 cial lifelong experiences that we all now share. This expedition has extended the 5 November 32 Cheeseman family with many new friends and strengthened it with many enduring friends. Steeple 6 November 34 I would also like to express heartfelt gratitude of your willingness to protect these 7 November 36 remote environments, each in your own way. Your generosity was especially shown At Sea to Ushuaia 8 - 9 November 38 by your generous donations in our auction to benefit the South Georgia Heritage Expedition Staff 40 Trust’s historic eradication effort on South Georgia. Postcards from the Field 41 Travelmate Photo Montage 42 Warmest regards, Ted Cheeseman List 44 Expedition Leader Friends of South Georgia Island 46

1 20 October 2012 Flights to Falklands and Embarkation Day 1

Meanwhile, the rest of the group enjoyed the first look at a new and diverse natu- ral history along the Stanley shoreline including the beautiful high-plumaged Dolphin Gull, Flightless Steamer , the exquisite Long-tailed Meadowlark with striking red under parts, and both Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatchers in display on a dilapidated dock. Duly noted was the ubiquitous House Spar- row, our first and only encounter of this human-commensal originally from Eu- rope but now found on all continents, save .

Embarking on the Ushuaia After a casual (for most) tour of Stan- Flying over the Andes in Chile Edmund Fellowes ley we transferred to and boarded our ship, the Ushuaia, where a champagne By Joe Kaplan Stanley toast by Ted Cheeseman, our Expedi- tion Leader, and an offer of help from Panic yielded quickly to a contingency Flights to Falkland Islands the group to share clothes and equip- Werner at Dinnertime Kjerstin Ferm Widlund plan to replace the essentials left sit- ment to those without, set the mood for “The flight you cannot miss” left Santi- ting on the runway in Punta Arenas. a great adventure. ago at 8:10 A.M. passing through Punta With the help of our transfer compa- Arenas and ending in the Falkland Is- ny, the unfortunate travelers were fer- lands. Though everybody made the ried via Land Rover to several stores flight, the same was not true for every in Stanley where the mad dash was on bag. Somehow, the luggage of four pas- to find socks, long-johns, rain-gear, sengers failed to show up at the Mount pants, shirts, boots, toiletries, and for Pleasant Airport – and this quickly the two staff members the quintessen- dampened the enthusiasm for our ar- tial requirement of any rival in the Falklands. guide: waders for wet Zodiac landings. Fortunately, the outpost of Stanley did right by these weary travelers. Ted welcomes everyone aboard Edmund Fellowes Katrina and Aravind Doris Beaman

2 Day 1 F flights to Falklands and Embarkation 20 October 2012

Third mate Enrique Hank Perry Rosie and Second mate Alan Aravind Krishnaswamy Taking a break from photographing Kjerstin Ferm Widlund

Captain Jorge Hank Perry Ted reviews plans with travelmates Hank Perry

3 21 - 22 October 2012 At Sea to South Georgia Days 2 - 3

By Dave Shoch the Falklands and South Georgia and 26 species from this unique family. one. runs over the South American conti- Staff members Rod, Marlene, Joe and Cetaceans were also in evidence, with Departing the Falklands nental shelf and seamounts like Shag Dave kept a constant vigil on deck, two Hourglass Dolphins riding the bow Departing Stanley we embarked on our Rocks, forcing upward a steady input of sorting out Royal and Wandering Al- of the Ushuaia Sunday afternoon. Nu- three-day voyage east to South Georgia. nutrients to fuel the diversity of life at batrosses, and spotting challenging merous blows of unidentified whales While we all keenly awaited our first the surface. species. Atlantic Petrel accompa- were also seen. landfall, our passages at sea were by no nied our ship. This is a fast-flying gadfly means superfluous bookends to our ex- At Sea Winds were generally from the west, petrel that on Tristan da Cunha plorations of the islands. around 30 knots. The sun occasionally Our first morning at sea we were greet- and Gough Islands in the South Atlan- poked through overcast skies. The inev- The sea around us offered an endless ed by black and white checkered Pinta- tic, and more typical of warmer waters itable forecast of “overcast with a chance procession of seabirds wheeling over do (or Cape) Petrels, who would be our north of the subtropical convergence. of rain” became a mantra – maybe this the waves, visible from deck or even constant companions from the begin- Also Gray-backed Storm-petrels, the is the place where Sting was inspired through the windows from the com- ning to the end of our expedition. The smallest oceanic bird seen on our trip, to pen the lyrics to “Heavy Cloud No fort of the lounge. This is a productive Pintado Petrel belongs to the tubenoses, seemingly hid among mats of floating Rain.” stretch of sea, where a massive flow of a family of truly oceanic with its . In fact on our first day out more cold Antarctic water is pinched between highest diversity in the southern hemi- than half of the kelp patches contained There were also plenty of activities sphere. By journey’s end we would see

Giant Petrel Aravind Krishnaswamy Pintado or Cape Petrel Paul McKenzie

4 Days 2 - 3 A at Sea to South Georgia 21 - 22 October 2012

Day 2 at Noon... Day 3 at Noon... Position: 52°15.1’S, 53°10.4’W, under Position: 52°58.0’S, 46°20.0’W, under sail. sail. Traveled: 170 nautical miles in 24 h. Traveled: 255 nautical miles in 24 h. Weather: Winds 10-25kn SW, 3-5m Passed about swell, air temp: 3°C (37°F), water temp: 4 A.M. 6°C (43°F), partial overcast skies. Weather: Winds 10-20kn SW, 2-4m swell, air temp 1°C (34°F), water temp: 2°C (36°F), partial overcast skies.

Antarctic Prion Elise Spata Black-browed Albatross Artie Morris scheduled to prepare for our imminent zone on earth. exploration of South Georgia. Expedi- Now over cold Antarctic waters, our tion staff gave a full roster of lectures observations changed. We saw covering photography and natural his- our first Kerguelen Petrel; this species tory. We also fastidiously vacuumed and was just recently discovered nesting in inspected all of our gear and reviewed March 2012 on the south coast of South bio-security protocols that would be Georgia at Shallop Cove, representing strict observance on all of our South the latest addition to the list of breeding Georgia landings. seabirds there. Also, two enterprising Early Monday morning, the seawater Snowy Sheathbills flew-in off the open temperature dropped from 6°C to 2°C ocean on Monday morning to hitch a in the space of a few hours, signaling ride on the Ushuaia, where they spent that we had crossed the Antarctic Con- the afternoon roosting on top of the Zo- vergence. On Monday evening, we set diacs on the back deck. our watches ahead one hour to South Georgia time, the least populated time

Snowy Sheathbills hitch a ride on the Ushuaia Elise Spata

5 South Georgia Island

St. Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia Aravind Krishnaswamy

6 South Georgia Island

Gentoo Penguin Denise Ippolito Elise Spata Penguin tracks Robert Rae

1. Elsehul 2 & 15. Right Whale Bay 3. Prion Island 4. Fortuna Bay

5. Stromness Antarctic Prion Elise Spata 10. Undine Harbour, 6. Grytviken and baggage! 11. Ample Bay and 14. Godthul 12. Salisbury Plain 5. Ocean Harbour 9. Cape Rosa Macaroni Penguin Bob Lewis 7. St. Andrews Bay Circumnavigation!

7. Gold Harbour

8. Drygalski Fjord & 13. Cooper Bay copyright Google Maps Chinstrap Penguin Bob Lewis O ur route around South Georgia

7 23 October 2012 Elsehul Day 4

Willis Islands where Captain Cook landed in 1775 Christer Widlund

By Artie Morris, Pauline Carr and Joe Kaplan

Shag Rocks Elsehul Marc Lombardi There was a thrill of anticipation run- ning through the ship as the Ushuaia ship at dawn and remained through- Sarah announced the first sight of South were speeding shoreward in our rubber bustled her way towards our landfall. out the morning. Almost humorous, Georgia. These were the , chariots. The precipitous green hillsides Shag Rocks lay astern, passed in the was watching the remaining stowaway the same landfall that Captain Cook above were dotted with thousands of night during our haste to reach anchor- Snowy Sheathbill join the snowy quar- had made back in 1775. Soon pristine breeding albatross. tet as they lapped the ship and provided white peaks were glistening in the dis- age and the first of many spectacular The black sand beach was home to sev- a wonderful study of this beautiful and tance, with a foreground of steep black landings. eral harems of Southern Elephant Seals often elusive seabird species (we’re talk- rocks traced with fresh snow. and some Antarctic Fur Seals – one of Our last morning at sea before arriving at ing about the petrel here!). South Georgia held some nice surprises. Elsehul the blessings of visiting so early in the season was that “furries” were few in Early morning brought (albeit, briefly) Land Ho! After lunch we all watched as Captain an encounter with both a Beaked Whale number and still pretty mellow before With a definite increase in the number Jorge skillfully brought his ship to rest the impending breading season. A cou- and two Sperm Whales. More satisfying of seabirds on the wing around the ship, at anchor in Elsehul. The crew worked were four Snow Petrels that joined the ple of weeks later and it would have been many of us were already on deck when fast to launch the Zodiacs and soon we impossible to land safely. On shore we

8 Day 4 Elsehul 23 October 2012

Gray-headed Albatross Clemens Vanderwerf

The “bazooka brigade” of big lens photographers settled in on the ridge Christer Widlund

wing swept close over our heads as they in peaceful, calm waters. Everyone reveled in the light breeze – consum- felt deeply content to have crossed the mate masters of the air, perfecting their ocean and finally set foot on this unique pair-flying skills as partners re-estab- and utterly amazing island. lished their pair bonds. Day 4 at noon... Light-mantled (Sooty) Albatross Graham Logen Position: 53°49.1’S, 38°47.8’W, under The “bazooka brigade” of big lens pho- sail. tographers settled in on the ridge and soon noticed Gentoo Penguins, Brown we later saw some awesome results from Traveled: 274 nautical miles in 24 h. Skuas, terns, Northern and Southern their efforts with both the Grey-heads Weather: Winds 5-20kn SW, 1-3m Giant Petrels, Kelp Gulls, Yellow-billed and the Sooties. Other folk took to the swell, air temp 0°C (32°F), water temp: (South Georgian) Pintail – all at inti- Zodiacs and had an easier but equally mately close quarters. 1°C (34°F), partial overcast skies. rewarding tour watching a stream of The highlight of this landing, however, Gentoo Penguins porpoising in from was rare access to a Grey-headed Al- the sea, as well as viewing the albatross batross colony; so all who could head- colonies from below and seeing King ed-up the slope to a ridge where these Penguins in an adjacent cove. Gray-headed Albatross Don Gutoski exquisite birds were most accessible. Back on the ship, we enjoyed dinner Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses on the

9 24 October 2012 Right Whale Bay and Prion Island Day 5

By Joe Kaplan Prion Island Arguably, one of the most unique sites Right Whale Bay we visit during our voyage, Prion Island Hitting the ground walking on our first functions as an island within an island full day at South Georgia, the Zodiacs at South Georgia. Its rat-free status began heading to shore at 5:30 A.M. benefits two special species that we en- Our destination, Right Whale Bay, countered here – Wandering Albatross hosts a small King Penguin colony (ap- and South Georgia Pipit. Others, such proximately 12,000 pairs), numerous as White-chinned Petrels, other div- Southern Elephant Seal harems, and a ing-petrels, and Antarctic Prions also picturesque landscape complete with benefit from this rat-free environment a braided waterfall feeding an ocean though remained safely concealed in side pool. Scattered ribs, skulls, and their burrow during our visit. vertebrate of long-dead whales served as a reminder of how far humans have The South Georgia Pipit, the world’s evolved in their relationship to South southernmost ranging songbird was Georgia’s wildlife. After a long day im- fairly common, though secretive, in the Southern Elephant Seal and the Ushuaia at Right Whale Bay Carolyn Peterson mersed with Oakum Boys (those brown tussock along the boardwalk. The pipit fuzzy immature King Penguins), Brown has become the poster child for the rat eradication effort on South Georgia by Kjerstin, Pauline and Tim overlooking Right Whale Bay and the Ushuaia in the distance Christer Widlund Skuas, ornery Antarctic Fur Seals, and fighting bull Southern Elephant Seals, the government and the South Geor- the smiles were wide as the day was long gia Heritage Trust, as this species is (and cold!). But wait, the day was only restricted to offshore islands sans . half over; a two-hour reposition of the While visiting Prion Island it is easy to ship over lunch took us to our afternoon understand the tremendous benefit that landing at Prion Island. turning back two-hundred years of rat occupation on South Georgia history will have for the pipit but also the nearly

Curious and Marco Chuck Bell Seal and penguin Fred

10 Day 5 R right Whale Bay and Prion Island 24 october 2012

32-million pairs of seabirds that depend on this island sanctuary for breeding. Once we arrived at the end of the board- walk our attention diverted from pipits to the spectacular Wandering Albatross. With adults absent from the colony this afternoon (gone to sea provisioning for their young), the nine gangly 8-month old chicks captivate us as they alternate between resting and exercising their South Georgia Pintail Kenneth Donaldson mammoth wings. These wings repre- sent the longest span for any species and soon will carry this cohort of albatross to a long – and hopefully prosperous – life harnessing the wind over the South- ern Ocean (see the 3 November log en- try for more on this species’ remarkable life and our chance encounter with a banded albatross from Bird Island). King Penguins Clemens Vanderwerf King Penguins at Right Whale Bay Aravind Krishnaswamy As we sloooowly left the Wanderers to head back to the beach we were once nity to encounter these species in the again courted by South Georgia Pipits, same place that details remain vague. along with nesting Southern and North- Again, the smiles were wide as the day ern Giant Petrel (though not with each was long, but this time the day is com- other), and South Georgia Pintail (the plete. world’s only carnivorous duck – hyper- bole for another entry). Back on the Day 5 at noon... beach Gentoo Penguins began return- ing from the sea to join their mates (a Position: 54°00.6’S, 37°40.8’W, at few already on ) and an immature anchor in Right Whale Bay. tern retaining some juvenile plum- Weather: Winds 5-15kn N, calm seas, age sparked discussion of how exactly air temp -1°C (30°F), overcast skies does one separate Antarctic from Arctic scattered snow. Tern? So few people enjoy the opportu- Immature Wandering Albatross on Prion Island Artie Morris

11 25 October 2012 Fortuna Bay and Stromness Day 6

By Kenneth Donaldson the loose fiber you get from untwist- Terns, and a on a “Goooooood morning shipmates. Par- ing an old rope, and it’s what you use rock, we hopped back in the Zodiac and tially cloudy, chance of rain.” The mel- to caulk a wooden ship. The boys who headed for another three-course lunch, lifluous tones of Ted, our expedition did the caulking, a process involving tar although some hardy souls stayed on leader, drifted across the tannoy, an- and fibrous bits of old brown rope, must the bay for maximum South Georgia nouncing the start of our next day in have emerged from a day’s work look- landside time. this extraordinary place. ing, well, not unlike the young King Penguins we could see, hence the name. Stomness Fortuna Bay So we trudged slowly, at penguin speed, Come 2 P.M. and excitement mounts The morning was cold (-1o°C) and up to the edge of the colony, found a as we wait to go ashore for a history Hans Jacob Opsahl overcast, but still and peaceful. Encum- nice stone to sit on, and were in no time hike: approximately retracing the very bered with many layers of warm, dry surrounded by fuzzy Oakum Boys, curi- last segment of Shackleton’s legendary clothing, encased in rubber boots, load- ous to see if we might regurgitate a nice crossing of the Island. Our route would ed with camera lenses, grappling with bit of fish. Or maybe just wanting to say take us from Fortuna Bay, up to a col tripods, girded and gloved, we called hello. of about 1,000 ft, past Crean Lake, and out our life-jacket numbers, the magic down into the abandoned sta- The time flew by, and so we needed password to the Zodiacs, and we were tion at Stromness, where Shackleton eventually to say goodbye to this Colo- off to Fortuna Bay. eventually found succor. ny, and head back via the six-foot ici- The bay was a long, arcing sweep of cles, the beautiful Kings on snow, the If you look at the photos in the won- stones and pebbles, with to Elephants on the beach, the terns and derful Grytviken Museum, you will see each side and a wide plain behind. All the , and indeed the Gen- that Sir , , along the beach at regular intervals too colony that had mountaineered up the Irish Giant, and did Cindy Marple were huddles of Southern Elephant to 300 feet elevation, for reasons best the whole traverse of the island in deep Seals, each with a three-ton bull and known only to the Gentoos themselves. snow. We did not. For us, the going his harem, all busy dozing. We landed Soon we came to the Reindeer herd, an was fairly easy, with light to moder- on the right-hand side of the bay, and extraordinary visitor to the islands, first ate snow from about 250 ft onwards. were immediately subject to inspection introduced by Larsen (the whaling en- Clouds clung to the hills, so all around by a number of curious penguins. And trepreneur) and looking quite at home was white, and we were fortunate to there, in the distance, set back from the in the snow and mountains. Slightly bi- have Tim and Pauline as guides. Having plain, was the King Penguin colony, zarre, but handsome nonetheless, and lived here for many years, curating the many thousand strong, with wave af- one presumes less damaging than other museum, their knowledge of the land ter wave of fuzzy brown Oakum Boys. introductions like the rat. and its history is exceptional. Hence we Or Kiwi fruits, depending which guide were told of Crean Lake, into which the After a last look at a couple of Antarctic you listen to. Oakum, it transpires, is unfortunate giant fell, piling misery on Reindeer Herd Robert Rae

12 Day 6 F fortuna Bay and Stromness 25 October 2012

the Station Manager’s house, where 18 had led, and where I doubt a thousand months before they wined and dined, others have followed, fulfilled for me a and made friends. They were not rec- key reason for making this trip. ognized. Upon hearing the words “My name is Shackleton” the Station Man- ager is said to have wept. Day 6 at noon... Position: 54°08.9’S, 36°47.6’W, at And so we reached Stromness but could not enter. Unlike Grytviken, the site anchor in Fortuna Bay. has not been made safe from rusting Traveled: 54 nautical miles in 24 h. ironworks and asbestos. But for me, Weather: Winds 5-15kn N, calm seas, the fact I could not enter Stromness on air temp 0°C (32°F), water temp: 3°C this cold, gray South Georgia afternoon (38°F), overcast skies increasing snow seemed only to add to the poignancy of and sprinkling rain. the walk itself. That we, in some minis- cule way, had walked where Shackleton History hike: following in Shackleton’s footsteps Elise Spata misery. We also heard tell of the party’s ley, the smallest, stayed at the top and pause at the top of the col, waiting and held the rope for the others. When his hoping for the 7 A.M. Stromness’ fac- turn came, he stuffed the end in a hole, tory whistle, which duly came, the first and followed. It is beyond reason, but sign of other human life they’d heard in the rope stayed put, and so he too made 18 long months. As we dropped down it to the bottom against all odds where the col, some people yomping, some we now gathered. They stumbled on, skiing, some coat-sliding, we could see Crean falling and almost severing an ar- the remains of the Stromness site com- tery with his ice axe. Think of it… After ing out of the misty white cloud cover, eighteen months and within sight of sal- but could not begin to image what this vation, to suffer such a near-calamitous must have been to Shackleton. We came injury. They walked through the station, down to the bottom of the waterfall, Worsley somewhere finding a pin, and where Pauline told us that Shackle- trying to make decent his ragged clothes ton’s group actually was forced to come in case ladies were present. People down the waterfall itself. They had one turned from them, not recognizing nor rope, but no means to secure it. Wors- wanting to look at them. They arrived at King Penguins at Right Whale Bay Paul McKenzie

13 26 October 2012 Ocean harbour and Grytviken Day 7

By Pauline Carr Grytviken The cross at Hope Point came into view Ocean Harbour as Ushuaia slid into , Another full day started early as our the administrative center of South Geor- bold captain and his relatively small gia. We passed the British Antarctic Ushuaia sailed into the narrow confines Survey base and came to anchor off the of Ocean Harbour, very seldom visited derelict whaling station of Grytviken, by ships. The harbor is spectacular with recently cleansed of oil and asbestos and the wreck of a sailing ship, the Bayard, Wreck of the Bayard Marc Lombardi Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses Don Gutoski made safe for us to see the enormous heeled over as to a freshening breeze but scale of the whale processing carried out in realty impaled on a pinnacle of rock and descend on inviting ering above us. Light-mantled Sooty over six decades and dispatching 54,000 beneath the surface since 1913. snow slopes to Albatrosses called from the cliffs and whales on the flensing platform. Whilst Our Zodiacs took some of our group where the ship would pick us up in time Antarctic Terns fished the sea. We had official paperwork was being complet- to photograph a colony of South Geor- for lunch. followed the route of returning whalers ed, scientists gave an enlightening talk carrying mail from Grytviken to Ocean about their work and then it was off in gian Shags making the sailing ship The rewards were a large and beautiful Harbour and the mail hut on the beach the Zodiacs to visit Shackleton’s grave decks their home. Other folk wandered iceberg aground in front of us, a splen- had been briefly home to some of En- in the whaler’s cemetery, for a toast to the shoreline photographing relics of did view of the largest glacier in South durance’s scientists in 1914. “The Boss”. This year the ashes of Frank a whaling station that was mostly re- Georgia, the mighty Nordenskjold, Wild, his loyal comrade and lieutenant, moved in 1920. Then a keen group of and a dramatic clearing of the mists to had been interred in a small grave to the walkers, snow-shoers and skiers headed see the very summit of the island, Mt. left hand of Shackleton - so it was dou- up to a 1,000 ft (300 m) pass to cross the Paget, 9,625 ft, almost 3,000 m, tow- bly poignant.

Panorama of Ocean harbour Karen Perry

14 Day 7 Ocean harbour and Grytviken 26 October 2012

Day 7 at noon... Position: 54°19.8’S, 36°22.2’W, at an- chor in . Traveled: 54 nautical miles in 24 h. Weather: Winds 0-20kn N, calm seas, air temp 0°C (32°F), variable skies from partly clear to light snow.

Storage tanks in Grytviken Chris Marsham

South Georgia Shag Bob Lewis

In the soggy field near the gravesite we “asado” barbecued by the ship’s crew discovered a drake Blue-winged Teal in on the side deck. The final treat was an company with the Yellow-billed (South excellent lecture by the South Georgia Georgian) Pintails – this miraculous Heritage Trust Director, Sarah Lurcock, observation represents only the second about the habitat restoration program observation of this North American – in particular rat eradication. Already Whaling artifacts litter the beach Robert Rae duck in South Georgia, the last from successful over a vast area including 1972! Grytviken, it will soon encompass the whole island and is projected to double We visited the fascinating museum the bird population as well as restoring and supported it by buying souvenirs. South Georgia Pipits to the mainland. Many of us were given guided tours of This wonderful project has been enthu- the whaling station and the museum. siastically supported by Cheesemans’ The post office was kept busy as we sent and several individuals made generous our postcards home and bought beauti- donations after Sarah’s talk. ful stamps for our collections. It was a very full day by the time we went back to the ship for a meaty Argentinean Cookers extracted oil from blubber Cathy Dean Derelict Whaling ship, the Petrel Werner Mayer

15 27 October 2012 St. Andrew’s Bay Day 8

While the landscape surrounding St. tusk–like teeth ready to clamp on a dan- Andrew’s Bay stands on its own, the area gling proboscis or penetrate a blubbery is perhaps best known for huge con- chest. centrations of wildlife; the King Pen- A plethora of scavenging giant petrels, guins rookery here is often cited as the gulls, and skuas frantically dueled over world’s largest and the nearly two-mile fresh placenta indicating where a seal long beach boasts South Georgia’s larg- pup had been born into a seemingly est concentration of Southern Elephant chaotic and dangerous world. Indeed, Seals. Add to this a supporting cast of 40% of seal pups do not survive their Brown (Subantartic or Falkland) Skuas, first year of life, an understandable sta- Snowy Sheathbill, Antarctic (Southern) tistic as one witnesses the reality facing Giant Petrel, Antarctic Fur Seals, Kelp these newborn seals. Gulls, and Light-mantled Sooty Alba- tross and one immerses in the magnum The King Penguin colony was dominat- opus of South Georgian unique natural ed by a mix of molting adults and crèch- history. es of Oakum Boys (and Girls?) awaiting the return of parents from sea as they King Penguin adult overlooking crèches of Oakum Boys Joan Poor Southern Elephant Seal beach-masters prepare for their final growth spurt be- actively defended their harems from fore fledging in November and Decem- By Joe Kaplan congeners, their low and guttural belch- teamed up for an interpretive nature ber. The King Penguin’s protracted chick ing reveals where the next challenge for walk, and the ever adventurous Tim and rearing period of over a year requires ju- St. Andrew’s Bay dominance is taking place and the next Pauline led an extended walk in boots, veniles to replace body mass loss during opportunity to catch sight of huge rivals An early start today (5:45 A.M.) and late skis or snowshoes to explore the sur- the bottleneck of a long austral winter. hurling their 5,000 to 8,000 pound bod- departure (7 P.M.) made for a “double- rounding landscape set against multiple Most exciting about the timing of our super-weaner” kind of day filled with glaciers and the 2,000 m peaks of Mt. ies at each other, mouths wide open, a bounty of activities and sights: Tom Roots, Mt. Kling, Nordenskjold Peak, led a photo workshop, Dave and Juan and Mt. Brooker.

King Penguin colony at St. Andrews Bay Joe Kaplan and Chris Williams Oakum Boy begs for a meal Paul McKenzie Southern Elephant Seal challenger Edmund Fellowes

16 Day 8 S st. Andrew’s Bay 27 October 2012

visit was observing chicks molting out Day 8 at noon... of their brown juvenile down into adult Position: 54°26.2’S, 36°10.7’W, at feathers – a bizarre but fascinating (and variable!) transition. anchor in St. Andrews Bay. Traveled: 58 nautical miles in 24 h. By the end of the day, whether one en- Weather: Winds 0-10kn N, calm seas, gaged a full itinerary of wildlife obser- vation, climbing, or skiing air temp 0°C (32°F), clear skies at (or a combination of all) the feeling of dawn, increasing to high thin clouds. satisfaction and satiation was univer- Brown Skuas feud Karen Ireland Bloody beach-master Kenneth Donaldson sal. This good mood made the reality of building seas, which bounced the Ush- St. Andrew’s Bay Rosemary Hillis uaia like a little toy boat in the harbor, seem like another roadside attraction – hey, at least we avoided the katabatic winds that have been responsible for a different kind of interesting day in St. Andrew’s Bay.

Sunset at St. Andrew’s Bay Chris Marsham

17 28 October 2012 Drygalski Fjord and the South Coast Day 9

By Dave Shoch were perfect, with bright sun lighting the harbor walls above us and calm and Drygalski Fjord clear waters allowing us to see strands of Following a morning at sea rounding kelp straight to the bottom. The Antarc- , with sunrise-lit tabular tic Terns in the harbor were very coop- icebergs and masses of gathering sea- erative, closely approaching the Zodiacs birds offshore, we entered Drygalski and presenting themselves for point- Fjord. We began with a ship cruise to the blank shots. Larsen Harbour is home head of the fiord, hoping to wait out the to the northernmost colony of Weddell 50-knot winds for our scheduled Zodi- Seals in the world, and we counted 15- ac cruise up Larsen Harbour. Along the 20 of these Antarctic seals hauled-out way, Hugh Rose interpreted the unique geology, giving meaning to the massive granite rock formations looking down on us. The ice-filled waters at the base of the Risting Glacier at the head of Dry- Sailing in front of the Risting Glacier at the end of Drygalski Fjord Werner Mayer galski were host to numerous Snow Pe- trels, Cape Petrels and Antarctic Terns.

Weddell Seal Dan Logen

and sunning on the snow-covered banks gently sloping down to the shoreline. Snow Petrel Christer Widlund The Weddell Seal receive the prize as the most adorable marine mammals of Fortunately the winds abated while we the trip. We saw three mothers nursing lunched on the Ushuaia, permitting two-month old pups, evidencing con- us to launch the Zodiacs for a cruise tinued hope for this Antarctic outpost up Larsen Harbour. Cruise conditions that has been in decline; we also saw a Sailing down Drygalski Fjord Hank Perry

18 Day 9 Drygalski Fjord and the South Coast 28 October 2012

Risting Glacier ice Marc Lombardi on deck until the daylight waned. We dined at Undine Harbour South, after which the Ushuaia continued on up the coast as we slept.

Larsen Harbour Zodiac cruising Cathy Dean

Icicles Carolyn Peterson dead Weddell on the shoreline. At the tions ahead, Captain Jorge gave the okay head of Larson Harbour another curi- to proceed out of Drygalski Fjord and ous Weddell spy-hopped giving us the head northwest up the south coast, al- once-over as we stopped to see the foot lowing us all the rare opportunity to see of the glacier, with a unique columnar the Antarctic side of South Georgia Is- Day 9 at noon... ice formation stretching down to the land. Rounding Cape Disappointment, Position: 54°49.7’S, 35°59.1’W, at an- high tide mark. we encountered thousands of Antarctic chor near Larsen Harbour in Drygalski Prions, and many rafts of Black-browed Fjord. Sailing the South Coast Albatrosses loafing offshore from a Traveled: 57 nautical miles in 24 h. nearby colony. The procession of mas- Few expeditions to South Georgia are Weather: Winds 0-40kn, mostly local able to circumnavigate the island due sive peaks and glaciers stretching be- conditions, calm seas, air temp -1°C to the treacherous sea conditions along fore us defied all attempts of panorama the wind-blown and ice-filled south captures to contain the enormity of the (30°F), clear skies at dawn, increasing coast. However, seeing favorable condi- south coast. Almost everyone was out to high thin overcast.

19 29 October 2012 King Haakon Bay and Undine Harbour Day 10

By Pauline Carr

King Haakon Bay Shackleton country lay before us this morning. King Haakon Bay was the end of arguably the greatest small boat journey ever made – where Shackleton and his five companions made landfall after 16 rough days at sea including two storms. Here the exhausted men, literally dying of thirst, were able to set foot onto dry land and recover enough Light-mantled Sooty Albatross Rosemary Hillis to make the journey overland to enable the rescue of the 22 men marooned on . It was a rare privilege for our band of ad- venturers to watch the Ushuaia sail into Undine Harbour surrounds Christer Widlund the bay on this early morning and pick out the entrance to with our rat-free, the tussock was full of burrows for shelter in Undine Harbour. binoculars. Far distant we could also see of Blue Petrels and Antarctic Prions. So the shining glacier called the Shackleton we dare not walk too far on this fragile Undine Harbour Gap where the crossing of South Geor- Bloody Giant Petrel Carolyn Peterson ground – but it was enough just to step This harbor has proven to be a good gia had begun. Calm weather saw most on such hallowed beach. I read more port in a storm – although it was too of us boarding the Zodiacs to make the evocative passages from Captain Wors- windy for us to land immediately and it short journey through the narrow gap ley’s book to help us picture the survival took a while for the anchor to hold. So in the cliffs and land on the beach where story in all its extremes. we watched impressive williwaws (wind Shackleton’s men had fallen to their devils) spinning spume out from the knees lapping the fresh water from the The wind was already picking up as we high ground and waited for a modera- tiny stream. And there to the left was bounced back to the ship and a hearty tion in the conditions. By 3 P.M. a land- the narrow cave where the weary men breakfast but our projected landing ing was possible and we sped ashore to had laid out their four remaining sleep- deeper in the Bay had to be cancelled – split into different groups. Undine Har- ing bags and slept on dry land at last. it proved a wise decision as the wind be- gan to gust up to 60 knots and the Ush- bour is separated from our first landing Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses cir- uaia struggled against it as she headed at Elsehul by a narrow neck of tussock- cled overhead and, because this site is covered land so many of the photog- Cave Cove Chuck Bell

20 Day 10 King Haakon Bay and Undine Harbour 29 October 2012

raphers were delighted to get another Day 10 at noon... chance to photograph the Grey-headed Position: 54°04.7’S, 37°56.7’W, under and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses – this time in much more wind so that the sail along Southwest Coast of South aerobatics were even more impressive. Georgia. Tim and I led a hike up the Hope River Traveled: 126 nautical miles in 24 h. from where Tim’s advanced group could Weather: Winds 0-20kn, mostly local see Wandering Albatross nests from Snowy Footprints Doris Beaman Gray-headed Albatross Don Gutoski conditions, seas calm to 1-2m NW, air afar. The Hope River is the largest in temp 0°C (32°F), skies clear in SE, thick South Georgia but it was easily fordable in most places. The mountainscape was overcast along SW coast. most impressive with stark and almost entirely white peaks etched sharply against a dark-grey sky. Meanwhile those who had elected to stay on the beach were watching el- ephant and fur seals, South Georgian Pintails, Gentoo Penguins and even a solitary and very cooperative Chinstrap Penguin. In fact, on landing at the beach at Undine, sharp-eyed staff member Joe Giant Petrel Ildiko Szabo Kaplan declared that he would find a Chinstrap Penguin among the mul- titudes of Gentoos, and sure enough, within 20 seconds he spotted one. Some of the staff found a fresh and al- most intact Fin Whale skeleton on a reef, although it was not really accessi- ble to the Zodiacs. The bad weather had all but died away as we returned to the ship to complete our circumnavigation of South Georgia in the dark.

Undine Harbour Jeff eynoldsR Gentoo Penguin Artie Morris

21 30 October 2012 Salisbury Plain Day 11

By Joe Kaplan displayed and fed along the numerous small rivulets formed from the spring Salisbury Plain melt. An endemic of the We set out this morning to explore wider ranging Yellow-billed Pintail of Ample Bay, a seldom-visited part of the , the South Georgia form Salisbury Plain complex where Robert is known to scavenge seal carcasses dur- Murphy Cushman, an American orni- ing the winter, crowning it the world’s thologist with the America Museum of only carnivorous duck. This morning, Natural History, made the first detailed however, they seemed content dabbling studies of the iconic King Penguin, and in soft mud and grazing on streamside its unique 13-month breeding cycle vegetation in this park-like setting. Sit- (unique among penguins) a century ting quietly nearby invited incredibly ago. South Georgia’s timelessness was close opportunities for intimate obser- vivid this morning; fresh snow under- vations as these casually walked foot and rapidly changing light condi- past occupied with feeding and main- tions provided limitless opportunities taining pair bonds from potential ri- for compositions. vals. Their plaintive whistles and gentle lunges at each other seem at odds with A particularly blond fur seal, a 1 in their carnivorous ways. 1,000 event (and our third for the trip), Zodiac landing at Ample Bay Marge Robinson drew attention, as did numerous molt- With a pleasant morning behind us we ing King Penguins lining both sides of repositioned the ship a few miles away a small creek next to our landing site. during lunch to spend the afternoon at South Georgian Pintails were also very the more familiar King Penguin colony conspicuous in the morning as they on the plain between Grace Glacier

King Penguin Paul McKenzie King Penguins Edmund Fellowes King Penguin Michael Viljoen King Penguins Don Gutoski

22 Day 11 S salisbury Plain 30 October 2012

(named by Murphy for his new bride) endless biomass of feathers and bills on the north and Lucas Glacier on and wings. No matter the perspective of south. This area of Salisbury Plain rep- choice, the Salisbury Plain leaves a rich resents the largest area of level ground and indelible impression. on South Georgia and once the site of a proposed airstrip! Approximately 60,000 King Penguin pairs breed here and given the expanse of level terrain are very accessible for observation with molting adults and crèches of Oakum Day 11 at noon... Boys dominating the current “phenol- Position: 54°03.3’S, 37°23.3’W, at ogy” of the colony. anchor in near Salisbury Female and male Antarctic Fur Seals Paul McKenzie After time soaking up the colony ambi- Plain. ance, many of us headed off to explore Traveled: 71 nautical miles in 24 h. the tussock-covered slopes that rise Weather: Winds 0-20kn, mostly local above the plain. The immensity of the conditions, seas calm to 1-2m NW, air colony is beautifully framed from this temp 0°C (32°F), skies clear in SE, thick higher perspective. The surrounding overcast along SW coast. peaks provide a nice break from the high energy of trumpeting Kings and squealing young below in a seemingly

Exploring Salisbury Plain Cindy Marple Panorama of Salisbury Plain Aravind Krishnaswamy

23 31 October 2012 Cooper Bay and Gold Harbour Day 12

Macaroni Penguins in the tussock at Cooper Bay Kjerstin Ferm Widlund Climbing the hill at Cooper Bay Christopher Marsham

By Dave Shoch guins getting situated at their colony in phant Seal weaner (young) complete an the tussock, showing well in the fresh arduous climb up the snowy slope only Cooper Bay snow that continued to fall. While the to lose its hold on the insecure perch Today’s forecast was cold and wet. Dawn cold and wet contrived to seep through and inevitably slide back down the slick was greeted by Snow Petrels wheeling the seams in our outer shells, we were incline into Cooper Bay. through falling snow over the Ushuaia, warmed by nesting Gentoo Penguins Meanwhile, others enjoyed a trek on which was moored in Cooper Bay since entertaining us at the colony next door boots, skis or snowshoes led by Tim arriving the previous evening. After an and scooting through the snow up to Carr, and a Zodiac cruise along the early breakfast, the Zodiacs launched their colony. We also were mesmerized Cooper Bay shore offered views of the to carry us to shore, where we found a by a pair of Light-mantled Sooty Alba- only colony of Chinstrap Penguins on narrow space for landing between the trosses courting on the slope above, pre- South Georgia. many fur seals occupying the beach. senting close views from an observation From there, we hiked up the slope to point staked out by the expedition staff. find the newly-arrived Macaroni Pen- Some of us watched a Southern Ele- Macaroni Penguin Clemens Vanderwerf

24 Day 12 C cooper Bay and Gold Harbour 31 October 2012

Gold Harbour of the King Penguin colony, a fight sud- From Cooper Bay we returned to the denly breaking out at close range sent Ushuaia for lunch while the ship repo- our group scattering in all directions sitioned back up the coast to Gold Har- to get out of the way of the thundering bour. Landing conditions on the beach bulls. On the beach near the landing at Gold Harbour were constrained, to site, another bull suddenly appeared, say the least, and it took us some time leering just a breath-away behind one before we found an “opening” far up the of us who was obliviously bent over a beach. Our landing site was squeezed tripod, The ignored bull retreated, his among a crowd of bull Southern El- threats ignored. Southern Elephant Seal female Marge Robinson ephant Seals lightly snoozing on the As we packed up our dry bags at the end beach, occasionally waking from fitful of the day, we were treated to a pair of dreams of deep dark waters to assess courting Antarctic Terns, with the male us with one eye. Meanwhile the wean- delivering a procession of choice mor- ers took up residence in our pile of gear sels to his mate who was waiting expec- and dry bags. Not all the elephant seal tantly on a rock by the shoreline. bulls were so placid though. At the edge

Southern Elephant Seal bull Hans Jacob Opsahl Southern Elephant Seal bull Michael Viljoen

Day 12 at noon... Position: 54°47.3’S, 35°48.4’W, at anchor in Cooper Bay. Traveled: 81 nautical miles in 24 h. Weather: Winds 0-5kn, seas calm, air temp -1°C (30°F), snowing 1” accumu- lation per hour.

Gentoo Penguins mate Michael Viljoen Southern Elephant Seal young Phil Gretton

25 1 November 2012 Godthul and Right Whale Bay Day 13

By Pauline Carr herd of reindeer passed close to some of us and trotted through the penguin Godthul colony, penguins pecking at their heels, It had been a quiet night anchored in and clearly illustrating what we had Godthul – “Good Cove” – so we were been told about the damage they could keen to hit the beach once more. This do to the wildlife. time we landed on a shoreline strewn A couple of Zodiacs made the trip out with whalebones since this was the site to sea and around the headland to see of a floating factory ship between 1908 some Macaroni Penguins on their land- and the 1928/9 season. Relics ashore ing site at Rookery Bay. told some of the historic tale and I filled in the many gaps. A small, well-weathered iceberg was aground close to the beach so the Zodi- The scenery was again impressive, but a acs detoured to circle around it finding little gentler with less snow so the hik- a swarm of copepods swimming in its ers didn’t need skis or snowshoes on lee. Turquoise water above the iceberg spur made us dream of the tropics! As the ship sailed out we passed a much Tim overlooking Godhul Kjerstin Ferm Widlund larger impressive iceberg close to the entrance. No tropical hint here!

Leucistic Gentoo Penguin Dan Logen

their walk that passed many Gentoo Penguins on their nests. The damp air forced the birds to remain laying flat on their nests so we could not see any of their prized eggs. In one of the colonies a leucistic (pale cream) Gentoo Penguin was spotted and photographed – a rare and slightly bizarre sight. A sizeable Iceberg Marc Lombardi

26 Day 13 Godthul and Right Whale Bay 1 November 2012

Right Whale Bay Day 13 at noon... There was time for one last landing, so Position: 54°01.6’S, 36°59.6’W, under we decided on Right Whale Bay because sail to Right Whale Bay. of the protection it offered and the vari- ety of species. This offered everyone one Traveled: 60 nautical miles in 24 h. last chance to catch that final perfect Weather: Winds 5-40kn, seas calm to photo of a King Penguin or Southern 4m, air temp 2°C (36°F), overcast to Elephant Seal before we headed out into moderate rain. the ocean. Some hikers set off towards the waterfall at the southeast end of the long beach. It had been spectacularly frozen when we last visited on the first full day of our trip, but now it was in full spate as we clambered up the tussock for a great view over the colony of several thousand birds. All too soon we were making our way back down the beach to the awaiting Zodiacs. Ted wanted us to be in good time so the ship could re- sume her passage to the northwest and to our next destination in the Falkland Islands. What an amazing and success- Loading Zodiacs onto the Ushuaia Tamsin Davidson Antarctic Fur Seal skull Phil Gretton ful cruise this had been – the best part was it was by no means over yet.

Photographing King Penguins on the shores of Right Whale Bay Cindy Marple Antarctic Fur Seal Lesley Gretton

27 2 - 4 November 2012 At Sea to Falklands Days 14 - 16

By Dave Shoch the stern. A diehard group was lined up along the rails underneath the Zodiac At Sea deck to meet them, where we rapid-fired The Ushuaia carried us westward for the thousands of megabytes of close range three-day return journey to the Falk- photos. So close that we could even read land Islands. Through much of our pas- the band on one bird’s leg – #485, which sage, heavy swells, wind and fog made we later discovered from Andy Wood of for less than inviting conditions out the was a fe- on deck so many of us stayed inside to male Wandering Albatross born on Bird work on photographs or quietly endure Island in 1982! Andy gave us details on bouts of mal de mer. Those brave souls the remarkable life of this albatross: who did venture out took in the intense “A Wandering Albatross carrying moods of the Southern Ocean, and the plastic ring Black 485 (B485) is in- remarkable aerial proficiency of its ma- deed in our database of birds from rine birds. Bird Island. B485 is a female band- Our first day at sea, Friday, November 2, ed as a chick on the island in 1982 marked our last day in the cold waters (the Falklands conflict cohort!). She south of the Antarctic Convergence. In first returned to breed in 1990/1991 a fitting goodbye, a pair of Snow Petrels but her chick died. She returned escorted the Ushuaia all day long, oblig- in 1991/1992, 1992/1993 and ing photographers by repeatedly sailing 1993/1994 but the chick failed in all point blank just off the rails of the upper these years in early may. However in decks. The Snow Petrels seemed to take 1995/1996 she was successful in fledg- a fancy to the Ushuaia – one was even ing a chick, and again in 1997/1998, seen to drive away a Pintado Petrel that 1999/2000, 2001/2002, 2003/2004, had ventured too close. We also saw our 2005/2006 and 2007/2008. In all last Kerguelen Petrels, ending the day these years from 1990/1991 on- with an impressive count of 25. Late in wards she paired with a male carry- the afternoon Shag Rocks could be seen ing metal band 5109603. We would on the horizon far off to starboard. have expected her to return to breed in 2009/2010, and she did, but her On Saturday morning, November 3, we partner did not (and has never been awoke to heavy fog and building seas. seen again). However she found a The “Big A’s”, Wandering and Royal Al- new mate in that season (metal band batrosses, made repeated close passes at Southern Royal Albatross Christer Widlund

28 Days 14 - 16 At Sea to Falklands 2 - 4 November 2012

servers that remained were rewarded Day 14 at noon... with the sudden appearance of a White- Position: 53°51.0’S, 41°11.7’W, under headed Petrel arcing briefly out of the fog and rain. This gadfly petrel of New sail to Falkland Islands. Zealand and the southern Indian Ocean Traveled: 173 nautical miles in 24 h. waters is a rare visitor to the South Weather: Winds 10-30kn, seas 1-4m, Georgia region, and this was one of very air temp -1°C (30°F), overcast to clear- few seen on over 20 years of Cheese- ing in the afternoon. mans’ trips here. These waters north of the Antarctic Convergence and nearing Carolyn photographing seabirds Joan Poor the Falklands also marked the entrance Snow Petrels Cindy Marple of new species like Slender-billed Prion, Sooty Shearwater, Atlantic Petrels, and Day 15 at noon... 4005422) and again successfully increasing numbers of Royal Albatross- Position: 53°11.6’S, 49°23.3’W, under fledged a chick. Her new partner was es, including at least one Northern Roy- seen for the first time in that season al. Some of our most dramatic “sight- sail to Falkland Islands. (previously unringed). As expected, ings” were produced by the wind itself Traveled: 298 nautical miles in 24 h. B485 and 4005422 have a on – in the afternoon, from the comfort- Weather: Winds 10-30kn, seas 1-4m, Bird Island now (ie. 2011/2012), and able interior of the bridge we watched air temp -1°C (30°F), overcast to clear- their chick is likely to be fledging very the relentless procession of swells and ing in the afternoon. soon - it was alive and banded on the waves, with spray breaking spectacu- Joshua and Sarah Aravind Krishnaswamy 5th September. larly across the bow of the Ushuaia. So, when you [Don Gutoski and Marine mammals were also seen dur- Werner Mayer] photographed B485 ing the passage at sea. Small pods of she would have been foraging to feed Hourglass Dolphins put in occasional Day 16 at noon... her chick at Bird Island. She is a appearances, teasing us by momentarily Position: 52°37.0’S, 55°48.0’W, under very successful and experienced bird, seeming intent on approaching to bow sail to Falkland Islands. and I hope will have gained enough ride, then quickly turning away and Traveled: 230 nautical miles in 24 h. knowledge to keep well clear of the disappearing. On Sunday November 4, Weather: Winds 5-60kn, seas calm longline fishermen.” over the course of the morning those to 7m, air temp 3.5°C (38°F), clear to The weather deteriorated further and of us stationed at the bridge saw three heavy overcast. our group gradually began to leave the or four Fin Whales briefly surface and outside deck and return to the warm blow. lounge. However, a few stalwart ob- Marco editing photos Aravind Krishnaswamy

29 Falkland Islands

New Island, Falkland Islands Werner Mayer

30 Falkland Islands

Gentoo Penguins Michael Viljoen Rockhopper Penguins Marge Robinson

Steeple Jason Island

Magellanic Penguin Cindy Marple

New Island

Sea Lion Island

copyright Google Maps

Rockhopper Penguin Don Gutoski O ur route around the Falkland Islands

31 5 November 2012 Sea Lion Island Day 17

Imperial Shag Don Gutoski Blackish laps up blood Edmund Fellowes Rockhopper Penguin Elise Spata South American (Magellanic) Snipe Cindy Marple

By Pauline Carr seeing very different species on one expanses of beach as most of us headed they shepherded all sizes of chicks from hand and some of the same on the other off for the main of the day – Rock- day-old upwards. Everywhere we were Sea Lion Island hand. Apart from the familiar Gentoo hopper Penguins. watched, not to say harassed, by bold What a joy to wake up this morning in Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals, and inquisitive Striated Caracaras ready Although the Rockhoppers were the completely flat water and surrounded there were suddenly heaps of wee shore to pounce if we laid any item down even goal, the 10 km round trip hike crossed by kelp fronds. A totally different land- birds and . Confiding Tus- for a moment. Gloves, camera bags etc. a variety of habitats and we were re- scape of the flat Falkland Islands just sockbirds inspected our boots, busily were equally at risk as sandwiches and warded with beautiful sightings of wa- broke the horizon - as well as the bolder searching the shore for grubs and inver- even drink boxes! terfowl on Long Pond – clearly breed- outlines of Sea Lion Island dead ahead. tebrates. Two-banded Plovers, White- ing season was in full swing. All around A detour to the coast saw South Ameri- rumped Sandpipers and Rufous-chest- A white sand beach cushioned the Zo- us, Upland and Ruddy-headed Geese can Sea Lions, Flightless (Falkland) ed Dotterels scurried across the wide diac landing and immediately we were were whistling their evocative calls as Steamer Duck, Kelp Geese and endemic

Rockhopper Penguin colony on Sea Lion Island Aravind Krishnaswamy Flightless (Falkland) Steamer Ducks Werner Mayer Cobb’s Wren Graham Logen

32 Day 17 S sea Lion Island 5 November 2012

Black-browed Albatross skull Doris Beaman Upland Goose female Jeff eynoldsR Flowers Karen Ireland Striated Caracaras Joshua Ong

Cobb’s Wren. The Grass (Sedge) Wren that these sturdy little birds could find Back on the ship we heard that some was also sighted, although more of- their way out of boiling surf up rocky lucky few had witnessed a pod of orcas Day 17 at noon... ten heard with its beautiful trilling call stairways that would daunt the most kill a Southern Elephant Seal – remind- floating out of the tussock. The keen able rock climbing human. Rock Shags ing us that this deceptively mellow and Position: 52°25.1’S, 55°48.0’W, at “botanists” among us found any num- and colonies added to the gentle island also represented nature in anchor near Sea Lion Island. ber of interesting plants, some edible, spectacle. the raw. Traveled: 137 nautical miles in 24 h. some medicinal, and some just bizarre. Leaving the keenest photographers be- Weather: Winds 0-15kn, seas calm, Eventually a spectacular coastal site for hind, we headed for Sea Lion Lodge – air temp 3.5°C (38°F), light overcast to the Rockhoppers lay before us – a natu- welcome haven of civilization, tea, cakes partially cloudy skies. ral arch extended beyond the nesting and shopping! sites and it was little short of a miracle

Southern Elephant Seal Robert Rae Don Gutoski Magellanic Oystercatchers C. Marsham Rockhopper Penguin with Joan Poor

33 6 November 2012 Steeple Jason Day 18

By Robert Rae 76 passengers aboard the Ushuaia. sengers and the careful guiding of the This is the first Tuesday in November staff in negotiating the wet and slippery Steeple Jason and the world pauses to await the elec- conditions of our landing created many tion of a U.S. President. And 10,000 Many enjoyed the luxury of a good worthy candidates for Cirque du Soleil! miles away in Australia, a country night’s sleep in the smooth waters of the Armed with briefings that detailed the pauses to watch the result of the world’s Islands as we made the 13- boundaries of albatross colonies, the richest horse race, the Melbourne Cup. hour sail last night from Sea Lion Island adolescent behavior of the “Johnnie But here in the East Falklands, we pause to this clear bright morning at Steeple Rooks” and the schedule for Tim and to absorb the sheer beauty and splendor Jason. The swirling clouds of Black- Pauline’s assault on Mt. Steeple Jason, of the world’s largest colony of Black- browed Albatross provided a tantalizing our assembled groups marched onward Black-browed Albatross Michael Viljoen browed Albatross. Long after the results taste of the morning to come. Zodiacs to the expectations of large colonies of of Presidential elections and horse races were launched, lunches assembled and Black-browed Albatross. are forgotten, the memory of this first breakfast conversations shortened to Tuesday in November will be embedded beat the scheduled 8 A.M. first landing. Negotiating the tussock grass brought in the minds, and laptop images of the back memories of Humphrey Bogart At the landing site, the skill of the pas- pulling the boat through the swamps in the film the Africa Queen. But after our struggles, we were very pleased with our rich reward – nesting albatross within our camera lenses! We were treated to hours of an up-front, close and personal interaction with these majestic birds in all varieties of displays – birds on eggs, birds courting and birds wheeling in a sky thick with wildlife. Black-browed Albatross Phil Gretton Those not focused skywards enjoyed the diversity and color of moss and li- chen along with the first signs of micro- blooms from a variety of semi-alpine flowers and orchids that clung close to the ground to avoid the blasts of Ant- arctic air. Tim and Pauline’s walkers were reward- ed with excellent sightings of a pair of O verlooking Steeple Jason Paul McKenzie Black-browed Albatross Don Gutoski

34 Day 18 S steeple Jason 6 November 2012

Peregrine Falcons. During the day a select few had the opportunity to meet the staff from the Falkland Island Wildlife Trust. They were on the island to count the num- Day 18 at noon... ber of nesting Gentoo Penguins and to Position: 51°02.5’S, 61°13.0’W, at an- count the entire population of albatross. chor near . All in 2 weeks! The preliminary news is Traveled: 142 nautical miles in 24 h. that the population of both species ap- Weather: Winds 0-15kn, seas calm, air pears to be either stable or increasing moderately. temp 4°C (40°F), clear skies to heavy overcast and rain. As the morning progressed the light and the weather turned. The wind changed, temperatures dropped and rain started Falkland Lady’s Slipper (endemic) Rosemary Hillis falling. Our loss was a win for the many nesting albatross as the moisture in the soil enabled many to collect mud to make repairs on their nests. For many, the changing weather signaled the start of an exodus back to the landing site Black-browed Albatross Aravind Krishnaswamy and the Zodiac ride back to a warm and dry ship. South American Sea Lions provided an appropriate farewell com- close to the birds, the sheer bravado mittee. of the Johnnie Rooks, the color of the mosses and sedges, the peace and quiet Back onboard, laptops emerged from of the eastern side of the island were the gloom, camera memory cards were all mentioned. However, they couldn’t downloaded and the exhaustive process be matched by the sheer majesty of the of photo-editing and mastery of the Black-browed Albatross. delete key commenced. Conversations of the day’s highlights and lowlights In the early evening before dinner, sea- ensued with comments on the weather birds amassed offshore, including hun- fading to the joys of a fine morning dreds of Sooty Shearwaters and our first on Steeple Jason. The ability to be so Great Shearwaters of the trip. Overlooking Steeple Jason Joshua Ong

35 7 November 2012 New Island Day 19

By Pauline Carr for a bouncier ride, or walking the seven kilometers around and over the hills. New Island Those of us who walked were able This, our last landing, was voted one to look down on the cluster of small of the very best! The Ushuaia had an- houses surrounded by gorse and mar- chored overnight in Ship Bay on New vel at the hardiness of people who used Island so we were well rested after a to live on this most isolated island. At peaceful night and eager to extract ev- the small museum, and shop, we met ery last moment out of this final visit. Georgina Strange whose father had Landing on another perfect white been instrumental in creating the New beach, we scrambled up a grassy slope Island nature reserve through the New inhabited by Magellanic Penguins and Island Conservation Trust. Close by onto a rough Land Rover track that led the stone building was a gentle spot in to a steep-sided amphitheatre of birds the sunshine to watch Kelp Geese and – Rockhopper Penguins, Black-browed other shore birds and muse on the three Albatross and Imperial Shags. It was a very full days in the Falklands. But it truly amazing sight. was still not over as we walked a short O verlooking the north coast of New Island Fred Wales Tim led a hike up to the rocky head- track across the “”, as the Falkland lands across narrow ridges to wonder- grasslands are called. Along the way, ful lookouts over the ocean and colo- scarlet-breasted Long-tailed Meadow- nies. We descended to a long white larks made a colorful contrast with the sand beach where we found a midden bright yellow gorse banks. of sea lion skulls and bones to remind At the end of the track was another us of a murkier past on the Falklands. A amphitheatre of wildlife, again giv- well-earned mid-morning snack saw us ing the photographers amazing access close by a good-sized Gentoo Penguin to portraits and to birds on the wing colony. Just as we were about to leave, in perfect windy conditions for flight five Peale’s Dolphins came into the bay, photography. A gulch of steep tussock, three of them only a wave’s width from large boulders and huge slabs of rock, the beach. gave a tenuous route down to the wild Three options found folk either return- coast where “Rockies” were landing and ing to the ship for a comfortable jour- a few were threading their laborious ney to the next landing site at the settle- routes, hop by hop, up to the colonies. ment, or following the ship in Zodiacs Many of these Rockhopper Penguins HIking across New Island Christopher Marsham Magellanic Penguin and hikers Alan Lillich

36 Day 19 New Island 7 November 2012

Day 19 at noon... Position: 51°43.7’S, 61°16.9’W, at anchor near New Island. Traveled: 44 nautical miles in 24 h. Weather: Winds 10-30kn, seas calm, air temp 4°C (40°F), clear skies to light overcast.

Rockhopper Penguin Don Gutoski were just chilling out by some patches of water where several others were in- Rockhopper Penguins Christer Widlund dustriously bathing prior to drying on the sun-warmed rocks. A fur seal briefly not last longer but the town of Ushuaia engrossed us with an appearance on a called and our onward flights awaited. rocky slab before it swam away on some We all felt philosophical as the anchor unknown mission. was finally hauled aboard and we head- ed out into the ocean for the last time. As we meandered back to the land- ing site, we all felt utterly fulfilled by Rockhopper Penguin Denise Ippolito Rockhopper Penguin Alan Lillich our journey and regretted that it could

Panorama of Ship Bay, New Island Doris Beaman

37 8 - 9 November 2012 At Sea to Ushuaia Days 20 - 21

By Dave Shoch Attendance was high for Rod and Tom’s Peale’s Dolphins made brief appear- the on Thursday, 8 No- photo critique and the much-anticipat- ances at sea after leaving the Falklands. vember, evening, we passed close by a At Sea ed post-expedition slide shows, where And the seabird parade went on. As we commercial fishing vessel with an im- These were our last days of the expedi- we could all see the incredible accom- rounded the eastern tip of Tierra del mense flock of seabirds in attendance tion. It was sad to see our expedition plishments of long, patient hours on- Fuego, with Staten Island to our east, that quickly took up the Ushuaia as its soon come to a close, but we felt satis- shore. the Ushuaia was escorted by squadrons new host. The call went out on the ship’s fied that we made the most of each oth- of Sooty Shearwaters. The first signs of loudspeaker and we all went out on er’s company to revel in our triumphant Ushuaia the South American continent appeared deck to view one of the southern ocean’s exploits in this remote part of the world. The adventure continued during our in the form of Imperial Shags and Chil- unique spectacles – swirling around the sail back to Ushuaia. Hourglass and ean Skuas. Heading into the mouth of ship, literally thousands of Cape Petrels, Black-browed Albatross, Southern Gi- Sailing back to Ushuaia Hank Perry

Doris on the bridge Marge Robinson

Carolyn and Rita Christer Widlund

38 Days 20 - 21 At Sea to Ushuaia 8 - 9 November 2012

ant Petrels and White-chinned Petrels, Day 20 at noon... and at least 15 giant Royal Albatrosses. Position: 54°00.5’S, 64°03.0’W, under The Auction sail to Ushuaia. Friday we spent anchored in the Beagle Traveled: 175 nautical miles in 24 h. Channel, where we had arrived ear- Weather: Winds 10-80kn, 1-6m swell lier than scheduled ahead of a storm from the west, air temp 6°C (44°F), now raging over the waters we had just overcast with rain. crossed. Anticipation had been run- ning high that day for the auction, held onboard to benefit the South Georgia Day 21 at noon... Heritage Trust’s historic rat eradication Position: 55°01.3’S, 66°44.7’W, under effort on South Georgia. Many gener- sail to Ushuaia. ous donations were made, including a Traveled: 161 nautical miles in 24 h. copy of Antarctic Oasis signed by Tim and Pauline Carr and Prince Phillip, Weather: Winds 5-30kn, 1-3m swell three beautiful prints from the expedi- from the west, air temp 0°C (32°F), tion by Artie Morris, a private Adobe snow to sunshine, variable. Lightroom tutorial by Aravind Krish- Photographers on the bow Hank Perry naswamy, just to name a few. The air during the event was electric courtesy of white-hot auctioneer Joe Kaplan (Joe, quit your day job!) and expectations were far exceeded. By the end of the auction we had collectively raised over $13,000, achieved in large part with a $5,000 match contributed by one of us. For some perspective, this amount will fund the equivalent of over 200 acres of rat eradication efforts on South Georgia. It will be a fitting legacy of our expedi- tion, and yet for us surely just marks the beginning of a newly-inspired commit- ment to conserve this crown jewel of the Antarctic. Cape Petrels Alan Lillich Mob of seabirds follows the Ushuaia Paul McKenzie

39 E xpedITION Staff

Ted Cheeseman Issy Douvartzidis Hugh Rose Hank Perry Lynne Hoole Christer Widlund Joe Kaplan Chris Williams Juan Manuel Salcedo Artie Morris Pauline Carr Fred Wales

Dave Shoch, Rod Planck & Joe Kaplan Ildiko Szabo Dave Shoch Juan Salcedo Ted Cheeseman Vibeke Breiting Tom Murphy Rosie Metherall Rod Planck Arthur Morris

Marco Restani Robert Rae Marlene Planck Joe Kaplan Tim Carr Doris Beaman Tim & Pauline Carr Dan Logen Sarah Doty Joshua Ong Ted Cheeseman & Hugh Rose Rosie Metherall

40 po stcards from the field

Southwestern coast, South Georgia Alan Lillich St. Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia Luz Torrez Right Whale Bay, South Georgia Marc Lombardi New Island, Falkland Islands Carolyn Peterson

O cean Harbour, South Georgia Christer Widlund St. Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia Cindy Marple Undine Harbour, South Georgia Hank Perry Steeple Jason, Falkland Islands C. Marsham

Larsen Harbour, South Georgia Doris Beaman Salisbury Plains, South Georgia Michael Viljoen Imperial Shag Denise Ippolito New Island, Falkland Islands Fred Wales

41

10-Nov

9-Nov √ √ √ √ √ 8-Nov √

7-Nov √ √ 6-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 5-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 4-Nov √ 1 √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √

3-Nov 25 1 √ √ √ √ √ √

2-Nov 25 1 √ √ √ √ √ √ 1-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 31-Oct √ √

30-Oct √ √ √ √√ √ 29-Oct √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √√√√√ √√√√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 28-Oct √ √ 100

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24-Oct 4 √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 62 √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 23-Oct √ √ 1 11 √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√ 22-Oct √ √ √ √ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√√√ √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ √√ √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ √ √ √

21-Oct 20 √ √ 20-Oct √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ E T A D Y T B LIS

IES C E (page 1 of 2) P S Blue Petrel Rockhopper Penguin Kerguelen Petrel Kerguelen Shearwater Greater Sooty Shearwater White-headed Petrel Petrel Atlantic Slender-billed Prion Slender-billed Prion Antarctic King Penguin Fairy Prion Fairy Prion unidentified Storm-Petrel Wilson's Imperial Shag Shag "South Georgia" Gentoo Penguin Gentoo Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Gray-backed Black-browed Albatross Black-browed Chinstrap Penguin Chinstrap Black-crowned Night-Heron Black-crowned Silvery Grebe GooseRuddy-headed Upland Goose Kelp Goose Speckled Teal Rock Shag Pintail South Georgia Silver Teal Silver Blue-winged Teal Southern Albatross Royal Northern Albatross Royal Magellanic Penguin Penguin Macaroni Albatross Wandering Chiloe Wigeon Duck Crested Duck Steamer Falklands Gray-headed Albatross Gray-headed Light-mantled SootyLight-mantled Albatross Southern Petrel Giant Northern Petrel Giant Pale-faced Sheathbill Pale-faced Common Diving-Petrel Common Diving-Petrel South Georgia unidentified Diving-petrel Diving-petrel unidentified Cape (Pintado) Petrel (Pintado) Cape White-chinned Petrel Southern Fulmar Snow Petrel Snow

44 44 10-Nov √

9-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ 8-Nov √ √ √ √ √ 7-Nov √ √ √ 6-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √√ √ √ √ √√√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √√ √ √ √ 5-Nov √ √ √ √ √

4-Nov √

3-Nov √ √ √ 2-Nov √ √ √

1-Nov

31-Oct

30-Oct √ √

29-Oct √

28-Oct 15

27-Oct

26-Oct

25-Oct √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 24-Oct √ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√√√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 23-Oct √ √

22-Oct √ √ √ √ 21-Oct √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 20-Oct √ √ E T A D Y T B LIS

IES C E (page 2 of 2) P Hudsonian Godwit Magellanic Snipe Skua (Falklands) (Antarctic) Brown Turkey Vulture Turkey Red-backed Hawk Falcon Peregrine Caracara Striated Southern Caracara Blackish Oystercatcher Magellanic Oystercatcher Plover Two-banded Dotterel Rufous-chested White-rumped Sandpiper S Duck Steamer Flying South Polar Skua South Polar Chilean Skua unidentified skua unidentified Kelp Gull Dolphin Gull Gull Brown-hooded South American Tern unidentified dolphin unidentified Seal Fur Antarctic Antarctic Tern Antarctic Sperm Whale whale unidentified Orca beaked whale unidentified Dolphin Commerson's Dolphin Peale's Dolphin Hourglass unidentified fur seal unidentified Southern Seal Elephant Fin Whale Fin Black-throated Finch Black-throated Black-chinned Siskin House Sparrow unidentified tern unidentified Correndera Pipit Correndera Pipit South Georgia Wren Cobb's Wren Grass Blackish (Tussock-bird) Cinclodes Ground-Tyrant Dark-faced Thrush Austral (Falkland) Meadowlark Long-tailed South American Sea Lion Seal Weddell Reindeer (Caribou) European Hare European

45

/ Total value: ______Total Zip Code Date Expiration . All sponsors receive a certificate. receive . All sponsors $140 per hectare Email: [email protected] • Website: www.fosgi.org • Website: Email: [email protected] Donations directly into our account should be sent to: Alpine Bank, 711 E. Valley Valley to: Alpine Bank, 711 E. should be sent our account into directly Donations Please check this box if you do not wish to receive FOSGI updates. FOSGI receive do not wish to if you q Please check this box (number)______hectares x $140 each = Date for anyone who cares about preserving our natural world. our natural about preserving who cares anyone for 970 704 9178 (USA) / 970 948 0778 (USA) / +44 (0) 1382 229792 (UK) / 970 948 0778 (USA) 970 704 9178 (USA) Through Friends of South Georgia Island (FOSGI) of South Georgia Through Friends And remember…a hectare of South Georgia makes a unique and appreciated gift a unique and appreciated makes of South Georgia hectare And remember…a Sponsor a Hectare of South Georgia Credit Card Number Card Credit Please make payable to “Friends of South Georgia Island” and send it with this form to the address below. the address to Island” and send it with this form “Friends of South Georgia to payable Please make threatened wildlife and studies to help us understand how best to protect the island’s wildlife. the island’s protect to best how help us understand to and studies wildlife threatened If you would like to receive our updates by email, please ensure your email address is included above. We use email as it is quicker and cheaper – use email as it is quicker We is included above. email address your email, please ensure by our updates receive to like would If you Friends of South Georgia Island, 25 Dakota Meadows Drive, Carbondale, CO 81623 Friends of South Georgia Island, 25 Dakota When you sponsor a hectare (or more) of South Georgia you help support work to conserve endangered and endangered conserve to help support work you of South Georgia (or more) sponsor a hectare When you I would like to sponsor I would like Help give South Georgia back to its birds for only for its birds back to South Georgia Help give Friends of South Georgia Island is a US 501(c)(3) tax-exempt nonprofit organization dedicated to raising funds for the conservation of South Georgia. of South Georgia. conservation for the raising funds to dedicated organization nonprofit Island is a US 501(c)(3) tax-exempt Friends of South Georgia leaving us with more money to spend on our conservation work. We guarantee that your information will never be made available to any other party. any other party. to available be made never will your information that We guarantee work. spend on our conservation to money us with more leaving Payment Options: Payment Method): (Preferred Transfer q Wire Island. Name: Friends of South Georgia Bank phone: 970 927 3653. Account 81621, USA. 101, Basalt, CO Ste. Road number: 102103407. Number: 55200008332. Routing Account q Check: Card: q Credit Card Name on Credit card) 3 digits on the back of your Security Number (the last Signature Address Street State City Billing Phone Billing address & phone if different from above: Name be on the certificate wish it to Name(s) as you Phone # Address City/State/Zip clearly) (please write Email address this form obtained you us where Please tell

46 SOUTH GEORGIA AND FALKLAND ISLANDS

EXPEDITION LOG 20 October to 9 November 2012

Cheesemans’ Ec ology Safaris (800) 527-5330 20800 Kittridge Road www.cheesemans.com Saratoga, California 95070 USA [email protected]

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