How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A Thousand Years of Recipes by David Friedman and Elizabeth Cook © David Friedman and Elizabeth Cook, 1988, 1990, 1992, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2011 ISBN: 978-1-460-92498-3 Copies may be purchased online from https://www.createspace.com/3565795 If you wish to reproduce or reprint anything in this book, you may do so subject to the following conditions: 1. The material should be accompanied by a credit line giving the source and author. 2. Any article or recipe that is quoted must be quoted in full, with no changes, deletions, or additions. 3. If you are making more than 100 copies, you must first get permission from the author. 4. Recipes may be quoted on web pages, provided that the source is credited. We would appreciate a link to the online version of this volume, at the URL below. http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/To_Milk_an_Almond.pdf To the memory of Marion Walke Introduction trust a secondary source that does not include the primary, since you have no way of The Society for Creative Anachronism is a knowing what liberties the author may have group that does historical recreation from the taken in his “interpretation” of the recipe. Middle Ages and Renaissance. Some of its The volume also contains a number of events are feasts. When I discovered it, about related articles—what foodstuffs were forty years ago, it struck me that medieval available when, how to produce a medieval feasts with diners in medieval clothing ought feast, and much else. It is a selection from a to have medieval food. longer volume intended for readers active in I found collections of English recipes from the SCA, a Miscellany covering medieval the fourteen and fifteenth centuries compiled cooking and much else that has gone through by nineteenth century enthusiasts, along with a nine self-published editions and will shortly be translation of a thirteenth century Arabic available in a tenth. For readers unfamiliar cookbook published in a scholarly journal in with the organization, it is worth explaining the nineteen thirties. Over the years since, my that members adopt “personae” with period collection of sources has expanded, in part names, some of which appear here. Mine is a through translations by fellow enthusiasts, North African Berber named Cariadoc from among them my wife and daughter. about 1100 A.D. Most period recipes omit inessential details such as quantities, temperatures, and times. Enjoy. You take some of this and enough of that, cook it until it is done, add a bit of something else David Friedman and serve it forth. The problems of getting from that to something that tastes good make cooking from Two Fifteenth Century Cookery If you would like to discuss any of the Books more interesting than cooking from issues raised in the articles, exchange recipes, Fanny Farmer. And you end up with a dish volunteer to translate cookbooks, or that, as best you can tell, nobody else has made correspond with us on any other subject, our for the past five hundred years. Think of it as address is: experimental archaeology. This volume contains the result of my and David Friedman and Betty Cook my wife’s efforts, assisted by lots of other (Cariadoc and Elizabeth) people, at working out period recipes. Each 3806 Williams Rd., recipe starts with the original or a translation San Jose, CA 95117 of the original, followed by information on [email protected] how we make it. One of the things I have www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/ learned from reading secondary sources on Medieval.html historical cooking is that you should never Table of Contents Introduction 0 Recipes 1 Sources for Recipes ......................................................................................................................... 1 Early Period 1 English/French 13th-15th c. 1 English 16th-17th c. 2 German 2 Italian, Spanish and Portuguese 2 Islamic and Indian 2 Chinese 3 Other 3 Ingredients ......................................................................................................................................... 4 European Dishes .............................................................................................................................. 9 Bread 9 Vegetables 11 Seafood 19 Soups 22 Poultry 25 Meat Dishes 31 Meat, Cheese and Egg Pies 40 Desserts, Appetizers, Etc. 46 Drinks 64 Sauces 65 Pasta, Rice, etc. 68 Miscellaneous 72 Islamic Dishes: Middle East and al-Andalus ......................................................................... 75 Bread 75 Meat with Sauce or Stew 76 Fried Dishes 93 Dishes with Legumes 99 Dishes with Grains, Bread, or Pasta 101 Oven Dishes and Roasting 108 Relishes & Dips 111 Deserts 113 Drinks 125 Odds and Ends 125 Indian Dishes ................................................................................................................................ 126 Chinese Dishes ............................................................................................................................. 129 Index of Recipes ........................................................................................................................... 131 Additional Material on Period Cooking ............................................................................... 135 Cooking from Primary Sources: Some General Comments 135 Late Period and Out of Period Foodstuffs 138 Scottish Oat Cakes: A Conjectural Reconstruction 145 Hildegard von Bingen’s Small Cakes 146 To Prepare a Most Honorable Feast 147 To Make a Feast 150 An Islamic Dinner 155 How to Make Arrack 157 A Dinner at Pennsic 158 1 Recipes The sources of these recipes range, with a London Antiquaries by John Nichols, 1740. few exceptions, from the sixth century to the The recipes are from the early 15th century. sixteenth. The original, or an English Curye on Inglysch: English Culinary translation of the original, is given in Manuscripts of the Fourteenth Century chancery font, followed by a list of (Including the Forme of Cury), edited by ingredients with quantities and, usually but Constance B. Hieatt and Sharon Butler, not always, additional instructions. For a few published for the Early English Text Society of the less readable early English recipes we by the Oxford University Press, 1985. Still in also give a modernized version of the original print as of 2010. text. The only intentional modifications we The Forme of Cury, A Roll of Ancient have made are to modernize the spelling in English Cookery, ed. S. Pegge, printed for the some recipes and to omit the medical Society of London Antiquaries by John comments which Platina (routinely) and the Nichols, 1780. This is English c. 1390; for a authors of the Andalusian cookbook later edition see Curye on Inglysch above. (occasionally) include in their recipes. Constance B. Hieatt, An Ordinance of How well worked out the recipes are Pottage, Prospect Books, London, 1988 (15th varies; some we have been doing for many c. English). years, others are the result of one or two tries. Constance B. Hieatt and Robin F. Jones, Before serving to anyone other than close Two Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections friends and fellow cooking enthusiasts, try the Edited from British Library Manuscripts recipe out at least once and adjust it to taste. Additional 32085 and Royal 12.C.xii, Speculum v. 61 n. 4, pp. 859-882, 1986. Sources for Recipes Referred to below as “Anglo-Norman.” Le Menagier de Paris, 1395, tr. Janet Hinson (Lady Mairoli Bhan); also translated Early Period as The Goodman of Paris, Power and Coulton, Anthimus, De Observatio Ciborum, tr., but with only selections from the recipes. translated by Shirley Howard Weber, Recipes from Power and Coulton are given as published by E. J. Brill Ltd, Leiden 1924. This “Goodman;” recipes from Hinson are given as is a letter on the subject of diet, written in the “Menagier.” Page references are to volume II sixth century by a Byzantine physician to of the collection of source material we used to Theoderic, King of the Franks. It includes sell. The Hinson translation is webbed at: several recipes. www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbo Apicius, The Roman Cookery Book, tr. oks/Menagier/Menagier_Contents.html Barbara Flower and Elisabeth Rosenbaum, A Noble Boke off Cookry Ffor a Prynce George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd., London, 1958. Houssolde, ed. Mrs. Alexander Napier, 1882 This is a recommended translation and (c. 1470). includes the Latin original. The earlier Chiquart, Du Fait de Cuisine, 1420, tr. by translation by Vehling is not recomended, as Elizabeth from the French original published he changes the recipes considerably. by Terence Scully in Vallesia v. 40, pp. 101- 231, 1985. There is also a published English/French 13th-15th c. translation by Scully. Elizabeth's transation is Ancient Cookery from A Collection of the webbed at: Ordinances and Regulations for the www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/ Government of the Royal Household made in Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/ Divers Reigns from King Edward III to King du_fait_de_c_contents.html William and Queen Mary also Receipts in Ancient Cookery, printed for the Society of 2 Pepys 1047. Published as Stere Hit Well: Andrews, Mallinkrodt 1967. (Both Platina and Medieval recipes and remedies from Samuel Kenelm Digby were published as part of the Pepys's Library. Modern English version by “Mallinkrodt Collection of Food Classics.”) G.A.J. Hodgett. The modern English version Reprinted by Falconwood Press, 1989. Page is unreliable but the book includes a facsimile numbers given herein