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i Century r e formation ō injuku kōen Park Hyatt Park Chūō- USA USA $13.99 UK £8.50 Local Life Discover how to unlock the city with guides to areas that love. locals really the 4TH EDITION 4TH Published Oct 2013 First Published Sep 2007 ISBN 978-1-74220-581-6 9 781742 205816 Get straight to the heart of the city the heart of the to straight Get Top Sights The city’s must-see expert plus sights advice to make your better. even trip lonelyplanet.com PLUS • Maps for every neighbourhood • Walking tours and day planners • Packed with expert travel tips • 100% independent advice pocket-tokyo-4-cover.indd 1 TOKYO TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Rebecca Milner

-title-pk-tok4.indd 1 17/06/2013 11:53:13 AM In This Book

14 Need to Know 15 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Tokyo Getting Around Iidabashi & Around Ueno (p128) (p118) Tokyo’s most famous Need to Your Daily Budget Narita Airport is 66km east of Tokyo; the Tokyo’s public transport system – a tourist Tokyo A controversial shrine, museum, plus temples, more convenient is on the attraction in its own right – is excellent. It’s atmospheric hill with 111 shrines and residential 11 1 Tokyo old-world alleys and neighbourhoods where Know Budget less than ¥8000 city’s southern edge. However, some flights a good idea to get a pre-paid card Neighbourhoods1 111 National to Haneda arrive in the middle of the night (p192 ), which works on all trains and buses 11 hidden restaurants, a Museum time seems to have X Dorm beds ¥3000 Tokyo Sky Tree & QuickStart when a taxi (budget around ¥6000) is your and means you won’t have to worry about traditional garden and E# stopped decades ago. Asakusa (p142) For more information, X Bowl of noodles ¥800 only option. the stadium of Sensō-ji E Top Sights purchasing paper tickets. Shibuya (p74) Shinjuku (p104) E# The traditional heart of see Survival Guide (p 188 ) baseball’s Yomiuri X Free sights and cheaper museums The centre of Tokyo’s Tokyo’s biggest hub has Giants. Tokyo, a riverside A From Narita Airport L Train youth culture looks like X One-act tickets for kabuki ¥1000 the world's busiest train Tokyo E# district of ancient Currency Destination Best Transport The rail network, which includes 13 subway the set of a sci-fi flick, station, the city hall, a Sky Tree temples, old merchants’ Japanese yen (¥) with a collection of quarters and nostalgic Midrange ¥8000–¥20,000 Marunouchi (Tokyo lines (run by either or TOEI) sprawling park, and Rail (JR) lines, will take you giant TV screens, lurid shopping and nightlife. restaurants and bars. X Double room in a business hotel ¥10,000 Station), Shinjuku, Language pretty much anywhere you need to go. It’s fashion and crowds. E Shibuya Imperial Palace & Top Sights Japanese X Dinner and drinks at an izakaya (Japanese- the quickest and easiest way to get around, E# Marunouchi (Tokyo Tokyo Sky Tree style pub) ¥3500 Ginza, Roppongi, Keisei to though it doesn’t run between midnight and Ebisu Ueno, then subway Ryōgoku Station) (p22) Sensō-ji Visas X Mezzanine seats for kabuki ¥6000 5am. With a Suica pass you can transfer (Hibiya Line) Kokugikan History meets Citizens of 61 countries, including seamlessly between lines. modernity when the Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Korea, New Top End more than ¥20,000 Ueno Keisei Skyliner grounds of the Imperial Taxi Zealand, Singapore, UK, USA and almost all X Double room in a four-star hotel ¥30,000 Asakusa Keisei Skyliner to K Palace meet the Guide European nations, do not require visas to E# Taxis only make economic sense if you’ve skyscrapers of X Tasting course at a top sushi restaurant Ueno, then subway enter Japan for stays of 90 days or fewer. (Ginza Line) got a group of four; additionally, taxi drivers Imperial Palace Marunouchi. ¥20,000 E# Meiji- E rarely speak English and know only major jingū Top Sights X Best seats for kabuki ¥20,000 Money destinations. Still, they’re your only option Imperial Palace Post o՗ ces and some convenience stores A From Haneda Airport after midnight. 1 Kabuki-zaE# have international ATMs. Credit cards are Destination Best Transport 1111 H Bicycle 1 accepted at major establishments, though Useful Websites Marunouchi (Tokyo to Tsu ki ji it’s best to have cash on hand. Bicycles are good for getting around quieter 111 Fish Station), Ueno Hamamatsuchľ, then 1 E# Tsukiji Fish Market X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ Market neighbourhoods where traffic is thinner; 11 Roppongi japan) Destination information, hotel book- JR E# & Ginza (p32) Mobile Phones Hills ings, traveller forum and more. some guesthouses have bicycles to lend. Tokyo’s classiest Local SIM cards cannot be used in overseas Ebisu, Shibuya, KeikyŚ Line to neighbourhood, with phones and only 3G phones will work in X Go Tokyo (www.gotokyo.org/en/index. Shinjuku Shinagawa, then JR N Boat department stores, Your keys to under- Japan; rentals are available at the airport. html) Tokyo’s official site covers sights, Yamanote Line Tourist boats run up and down the Sumida- Roppongi & boutiques, gardens, events and tours. Roppongi Tokyo Monorail to gawa; they’re not cheap or efficient, but the Akasaka (p48) teahouses and high-end Legendary for its restaurants. Time X Metropolis (http://metropolis.co.jp) Arts Hamatsuchľ, then views are lovely. E Japan Standard Time (GMT plus nine hours) and entertainment listings. subway (Ľedo Line nightlife, this Top Sights from ) J Bus forward-looking Tsukiji Fish Market Harajuku & Aoyama Ebisu & Meguro neighbourhood is also Plugs & Adaptors Ginza, Asakusa KeikyŚ Line to Sen- In central Tokyo, the train beats the bus 9.9 Kabuki-za (p88) (p64) the place for Plugs have two Á at pins; electrical current is gakuji, then subway times out of 10 for efficiency. Advance Planning Home to Tokyo's A collection of funky cutting-edge art, 100V. North American appliances will work; (Asakusa Line) grandest Shintō shrine, architecture and design. Worth a Trip others will require an adaptor. X One month Book tickets for kabuki, K Car neighbourhoods, with E sumľ and the Imperial Palace tour; make this nexus of tradition stylish boutiques, E Top Sights Top Sights From Considering the traffic, convoluted city lay- and trends swarms with reservations at top-end restaurants; book L unexpected museums Roppongi Hills Ōedo Onsen Monogatari Tipping out, exorbitant parking rates and efficiency shoppers and luxury standing the city – your hotel now and you may lock in a Tokyo Station, the (bullet train) and excellent Tipping is not common practice in Japan, of the city’s public transport, most Tokyoites brand architecture. Sumō at Ryōgoku better rate. terminus, is serviced by the JR Yamanote restaurants and bars. though top-end restaurants will add a 10% don’t even have drivers’ licenses. We don’t E Kokugikan Line and the Marunouchi metro line. There Top Sights service charge to your bill. X One week Scan web listings for festi- recommend driving here. are taxi ranks in front of both the Maru- Meiji-jingū Ōedo Onsen Mt Fuji vals, live music shows and exhibitions. E# Monogatari we help you decide nouchi Central and Yaesu Central exits. what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

24 Imperial Palace & Marunouchi (Tokyo Station) Imperial Palace 25 126 Worth a Trip An Afternoon in Akihabara 127

߶߄㨪߻ࠞ y Top Tips 1 Explore ‘Electric Town’ Pop into @Home Cafe (@ ࡈࠚ; www.cafe-athome.com; 4th-7th fl, 1-11-4 Don’t Miss f Tours, leaving from Before Akihabara became otaku- Top Sights Local Life Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; drinks from ¥500; the Kikyľ-mon gate, land, it was Electric Town – the NijŚ-bashi & the Palace Moat place for discounted electronics and h11.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10.30am Sat Imperial Palace The original moat, dating to the Edo-jľ period, run twice daily from An Afternoon in Akihabara ⊞ዬ; Kľkyo Monday to Friday where early computer geeks tracked & Sun; dJR Sľbu Line to Akihabara, Electric wraps around the palace grounds. Even if you skip down obscure parts for home-built Town exit) for a game of moe moe jankan The Imperial Palace, residence of Japan’s emperor, (10am and 1.30pm), but 1 Map p26 , A2 the tour, you can walk along the edge of the moat machines. ⑺ (rock, paper, scissors), maid-style. occupies pride of place in the city centre. It also only in the mornings Akihabara Radio Center ( to see NijŚ-bashi, one of Japan’s most famous from late July until the ⪲ේ࡜ࠫࠝ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯; 1-14-2 Soto-Kanda, occupies the site where Edo-jľ, the Tokugawa %3213-1111 bridges, an elegant succession of stone arches used 5 Shop at Mandarake Complex end of August. Getting There Chiyoda-ku; hhours vary; dJR Yamanote shľgun’s castle, once stood. While the palace is for formal ceremonies and receptions. Akihabara (‘Akiba’ to friends) is the centre of If you want to get an idea of what http://sankan.kunaicho. Tokyo’s otaku (geek) subculture. But you don’t Line to Akihabara, Electric Town exit), a war- closed to the public, visitors can take a free guided f You must sign up in otaku obsess over, a trip to Mandarake Explore go.jp/english/index.html L The JR Yamanote have to obsess about manga or anime to enjoy this ren of stalls under the train tracks, tour of the grounds. The Imperial Palace East The Imperial Palace advance through the ߹ࠎߛࠄߌࠦࡦࡊ࡟࠶ࠢ and Sľbu Lines stop quirky neighbourhood. It’s equal parts sensory keeps the tradition alive. Complex ( Garden, open without reservation and also free, Chiyoda, Chiyoda-ku The present palace, modern but traditional in Imperial Household ࠬ at Akihabara; Electric overload and cultural mind-bender. In fact, as the ; www.mandarake.co.jp; 3-11-2 Soto-Kanda, preserves some of the original castle masonry style, was completed in 1968, replacing one built Agency’s website: http:// admission free Town exit is the most otaku subculture gains more and more influence 2 Play vintage arcade games Chiyoda-ku; hnoon-8pm; dJR Yamanote Line and is an attractive retreat from the bustle of in 1888 and destroyed during WWII. If you take sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/ convenient. on the culture at large, Akiba is drawing more visi- In Akihabara a love of the new is tem- to Akihabara, Electric Town exit) will do the downtown Tokyo. english/index.html. dMarunouchi Line to the guided tour, you’ll walk past a few of the outer tors who don’t fit the stereotype. pered with a deep affection for the old. trick. It’s eight storeys of comic books b The Hibiya Line Ľtemachi, exits C13b buildings, including the plaza where the public f The Imperial Palace ࠬ࡯ࡄ࡯ࡐ࠹ and DVDs, action figures and cel art. stops at Akihabara; Super Potato Retro-kan ( or C8b gathers on 2 January and 23 December for a rare East Garden is closed on take exit 3. ࠻࡟࠻ࡠ㙚; 1-11-2 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; public appearance by the imperial family. Mondays and Fridays, h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; 6 Use a vending machine

HARALD SUND / GETTY IMAGES © so it’s easier to book a dJR Yamanote Line to Akihabara, Electric Town Akihabara has a love affair with vend- Fujimi-yagura tour on those days, but exit) is a retro video arcade where you ing machines. Look for those dishing The three-storey watch tower Fujimi-yagura it means missing the can play on some old-school consoles. out canned bread and rómen, while (ን჻⷗ᰊ), whose name translates to Mt Fuji garden. Gachapon Kaikan (ࠟ࠴ࡖࡐࡦળ㙚; 0 100 m Tokyo Keep, is one of the few remaining structures of the e# 0 0.05 miles f #¡ 3 Eat at Marugo %5209-6020; www.akibagacha.com; 3-15-5 former castle. It was constructed in 1659 and is the Be sure to snag a free Suehirochō English audio headset Akiba is known for its b-kyŚ gurume Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-8pm Mon- highlight of the guided tour of the grounds. Anoth- Fri, to 10pm Sat, to 7pm Sun; dGinza Line to for the tour. #þ6 (b-grade gourmet) – comfort food done er keep, Fushimi-yagura (ફ⷗ᰊ), was supposedly i i 1 Suehiro-chľ, exit 3) has hundreds of gach-

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Imperial Palace East Garden p b #þ C i 5 H x Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; meals from ¥1400; Not far from NijŚ-bashi, o e KANDA-

᧲ᓮ⧞ h E The Imperial Palace East Garden ( ; Kľkyo n HANAOKA- 7 Shop at Yodobashi Akiba g ō ō o h11.30am-3pm & 5-8.20pm; dJR Yamanote Cafe 1894 (p29 ) does t Higashi-gyoen; admission free; h9am-4pm Nov-Feb, to -d h CHŌ u The modern avatar of Akihabara Radio ō S Line to Akihabara, Electric Town exit) serves

r h 4.30pm Mar-Apr, Sep & Oct, to 5pm May-Aug, closed Mon & Fri light lunches, coffee i S Center is Yodobashi Akiba (࡛࠼ࡃࠪࠞ #æ up delicious tonkatsu (deep-fried pork year-round; dMarunouchi Line to Ľtemachi, exit C10) is the and cake. #4 #Ø2 cutlet) and has a loyal following. ࡔ࡜Akiba; www.yodobashi-akiba.com; 1-1 Kan- The best things to only corner of the palace grounds open to the Sushi restaurant Nu- da Hanaoka-chľ, Chiyoda-ku; h9.30am-10pm; public without a reservation. You can see the mazu Uogashi (p30 ) is #ú3 #þ7 4 Visit a maid cafe dJR Yamanote Line to Akihabara, Shľwa- massive stones used to build the castle walls and a short walk from the Maid cafes – where waitresses dress as tľriguchi exit), a monster electronics store can climb on the ruins of one of the keeps. The Imperial Palace East french maids and treat customers with beloved by camera junkies. But for all K #æ ᄢᚻ㐷 a 1 £ entrance is via the gate Ľte-mon ( ); take a Garden. KANDA- n # Akihabara giggling deference as go-shujinsama the modern conveniences, Yodobashi da token on arrival and return it at the end of your AWAJICHŌ -ga (master) – are an Akiba institution. Akiba feels like an old-time bazaar. visit. wa see and do, Imperial Palace neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

164 Contemporary Architecture in Omote-sandľ 165 180 Best Shopping & Markets Best Shopping & Markets 181 Best Walks 1 Omotesandľ ing glass facade of the ing strips of concrete 7 Prada Building Hills National Art Center take their inspiration The most internationally Best (p 54 ). Contemporary Andľ Tadao’s deceptively Tokyo from the zelkova trees famous structure on this below; what’s more im- Shopping & deep Omotesandľ Hills strip is the convex glass Architecture in 4 Louis Vuitton pressive is that they’re (2003) is a high-end fishbowl that Herzog Markets Building also structural. Omote-sandľ shopping mall spiralling and de Meuron designed CHRISTIAN KOBER / GETTY IMAGES ©

around a sunken central Evoking a stack of for (2003). TRAVELASIA /GETTY IMAGES © Prada Tokyo is the trendsetter for the rest of Japan, and 2 The Walk atrium. It replaced an clothes trunks, Aoki 6 Spiral Building its residents shop – economy be damned – with ivy-covered pre-WWII Jun’s design for Louis Maki Fumihiko’s post- Nezu Museum Omote-sandľ, a broad, tree-lined boulevard 8 an infectious enthusiasm. From quirky fashion to between Harajuku and Aoyama, is known for its apartment building (to Vuitton (2002) features modernist Spiral Build- Finish the walk at the cutting-edge electronics, antiques to traditional offset panels of tinted ing (p95 ) is worth a de- upmarket boutiques designed by the who’s who of considerable protest); Nezu Museum (p93 ), glass behind sheets of crafts, Tokyo has many ways to tempt your wal- (mostly) Japanese contemporary architects. This the low horizontal de- tour down Aoyama-dľri. remodelled in 2009 metal mesh. let. Merchandise is generally of excellent quality, The Best stretch of prime real estate functions as a design sign pays homage to the Constructed in 1985, it by Kuma Keng ľ. The showroom and is full of architectural eye candy. and not as wildly expensive as you might think. original structure. predates everything else bamboo-lined entrance Worth a All of the buildings on the route are contemporary, Tod’s Building Mitsukoshi department store (p44 ) 5 on this walk. The patch- is likened by the archi- though the final stop Nezu Museum is a modern work, uncentred design y Top Tip Trip 2 Dior Building Climb onto the tect to the pathway that Shopping Tokyo For proof that take on the traditional Japanese villa. is a nod to Tokyo’s own Across the street from elevated crosswalk to leads to a traditional Tokyo is famous for its fashion tribes, each of f Department Best Local Isetan Tokyo’s most Tokyo’s centuries- mismatched landscape. fashion forward depart- Start Omotesandľ Hills; dHarajuku Omotesandľ Hills, the better admire Itľ Toyľ’s teahouse, which gives whom has a preferred stomping grounds. Ginza stores and other Shopping old artisan tradi- Inside, a spiralling pas- ment store. (p115 ) flagship boutique for construction for Tod’s the visitor time to ad- has long been Tokyo’s premier shopping district large retailers have Don Quijote An all- tion is still alive Finish Nezu Museum; dOmote-sandľ sage doubles as an art Dior (2003), designed (2004). The crisscross- just his or her mood. and is home to many high-end department stores tax-free exemption night treasure trove of and kicking, take gallery. Length 1.5km; one hour by Pritzker Prize winner and boutiques. Rival Harajuku, on the other side counters for foreign miscellaneous oddities. Best Traditional a trip to 2K540 SANAA (composed of of town, has boutiques that deal in both luxury tourists spending (p107 ) Shops ࠕ #¡ Aki-Oka Artisan ( Sejima Kazuyo and fashion and street cred. Shibuya is the locus of more than ¥10,000; Meguro Interior Shops Kamawanu Colourfully ࠠࠝࠞࠕ࡞࠴ࠩࡦ 5 Take a Break Gaienmae ; Nishizawa RyŚe), has the teen fashion trend machine, while nearby you’ll need to show Community Interior- dyed cotton. (p72 ) On Omote-sandľ, between Harajuku and Aoyama, www.jrtk.jp/2k540; 5-9 HARAJUKU JINGŪMAE e# 0 200 m Shimo-Kitazawa has the city’s highest concentra- your passport. of Tokyo a filmy, white exterior 0 0.1 miles design district. (p 72 ) Isetatsu Gorgeous, Ueno, Taitľ-ku; hhours Anniversaire Café (p100 ) has an attractive patio that seems to hang like tion of vintage clothing stores. Ebisu and Meguro that is perfect for people-watching. #¡ Meiji-jingū-mae 11 printed paper. (p141 ) vary; dGinza Line to a dress. The exterior is 111 are known for small one-off shops selling artsy Best for Fashion Best for Souvenirs Suehirochľ, exit 2). In 11 made entirely of glass 111 fashions and homewares. this minimalist ba- #æ1 Dover Street Market TľkyŚ Hands Cute Best Shopping and a thin grey sheath, #æ2 11 For one-stop shopping, Shinjuku is your best zaar, set up under iji-dōri Comme des Garçons stationery, gadgets and Streets which acts as a semi- #æ3 KITA- bet: here you’ll find department stores, electronics Me and other avant-garde beauty products. (p 84 ) the JR Yamanote AOYAMA Ameya-yokochľ Vintage permeable veil protecting #æ Om outfitters, book stores, record shops and fashion- Line tracks be- 4 o Japanese labels. (p44 ) Souvenir from Tokyo the refined interior from te able boutiques. Akihabara is the place to go to market in Ueno. (p137 ) et #æ5 -s Aoyama-dōri tween Akihabara tre an Sister Hipster boutique One-of-a-kind local art- the urban tangle outside. t S d source anime and manga related goods. Ueno and Takeshita-dľri Trend-set- and Okachimachi Ca ō with the latest labels and ists and designers. (p 63 ) JINGŪMAE MINAMI- Asakusa have many stores selling artisan crafts, ting fashion alley. (p101 ) Stations, you’ll find The city’s GARY CONNER / GETTY IMAGES © SHIBUYA-KU #¡ Omote-sandō vintage finds. (p84 ) 3 Japan Nursing AOYAMA both traditional and contemporary. young creators Association Laforet Harajuku land- Best Department Best Bookstores peddling all kinds Antiques & Flea Markets mark filled with kooky Stores The glass cone of of handmade #æ6 #æ7 Tokyo’s biggest and best antique market is the clothes. (p102 ) Daikanyama T-Site the Japan Nursing Mitsukoshi Classic Designer digs for books. wares. Ľedo Antique Market (p 30 ), held on the 1st and Okura Beautiful indigo- department store with Association (2004) is i (p73 ) ōr Kot 3rd Sunday of the month. Some shrines and tem- dyed clothing and acces- an excellent food hall. classic Kurokawa Kishľ, d a- tō- On Sundays Art books m d ples also host regular flea markets; for listings, see sories. (p72 ) (p 168 ) the architect who later ōri #æ8 oya . galore and artsy station- designed the undulat- A Metropolis (http://metropolis.co.jp/listings/) highlights Omote-sandľ, Harajuku (p94 ) ary, too. (p102 ) in handy lists Best Walks Tokyo’ Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

190 Survival Guide Getting Around 191 192 Survival Guide Essential Information 193

Hľmeikan (www. ¥3110, 1½ hours). Seats ¨ Taxis Run at about but averages about 45 cially around Ueno and ¨ A ride on a municipal ¨ It’s best to have cash on GPS systems, so have numerous private com- lines are conveniently kae), also available as a Discount Cards homeikan.com) Beauti- are reserved, but tickets ¥25,000 from Narita to minutes to most points in Asakusa) have bicycles to bus costs ¥200; there are you as not all taxis take an address or a business muter lines. colour-coded. smart phone app, is a life- can be purchased imme- the city centre – naturally the city centre. The last lend or know where you no transfer tickets. credit cards. card for your destination saver: it calculates routes ¨ Tokyo Handy Guide fully crafted, 100-year-old ¨ The line you’ll probably ¨ Tickets are sold from diately before departure, we don’t recommend bus of the evening leaves can rent one. handy. by speed and fare. (www.gotokyo.org/book/ wooden ryokan, near ¨ The Megurin Commu- ¨ Look for taxi ranks in use the most is the JR vending machines near if available, from ticket this. for at tokyo_handy_guide) oՖ ers Ueno. ¨ Sumida-kľen Bicycle nity Bus (߼ߋࠅࠎ; www. front of all major train Yamanote Line, the city’s the automated ticket ¨ Most train stations counters near the arrival 12.30am; buses start up small discounts (around Parking Lot (㓈↰౏࿦ city.taito.lg.jp/index/kurashi/ stations and hotels. Train & Subway elevated loop line that gates. Look for the newer have multiple exits. Look Sukeroku no Yado Sada- gate in either terminal. again around 5am. ¥100) to many museums; Haneda Airport 㚢ベ႐; Map p148, C3; 1-1 y Best for… getting runs through many key touch screen ones that for maps in the station chiyo (www.sadachiyo. kotsu/megurin/index.html; ¨ You can also hail a cab pick one up for free at ¨ Keisei Skyliner (੩ᚑࠬ ⠀↰ⓨ ¨ A taxi to the city centre, Hanakawado, Taitľ-ku; ¥200; around the city e՗ ciently. sightseeing areas. have an English option. that show which exits co.jp) Gorgeous old-world Haneda Airport ( one ride/day pass ¥100/300; from the street – taxis most tourist information ࠞࠗ࡜ࠗ࠽࡯; www.keisei. ᷼; %5757-8111, international which is your only option h6am-8pm; dGinza Line hevery 15 minutes, 7am- are closest to major area oasis in Asakusa. with their indicator in red ¨ Tokyo’s train network ¨ Try to avoid rush hour ¨ Fares are determined centres and many ac- co.jp) Trains zip twice an if you opt for a Á ight that landmarks. terminal 6428-0888; www. to Asakusa, exit 5), next to 7pm) runs around Ueno are free; green means runs approximately 5am (around 8am to 9.30am by how far you ride; commodation venues. Annex Katsutarľ hour, 8am to 10.15pm, gets in before dawn, aver- tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp/en; the Tokyo Cruise Pier in and Asakusa. taken. to midnight and includes and 5pm to 8pm), when there should be a fare Ryokan (www.katsutaro. to (¥2400, ages about ¥6000. Asakusa, rents city bikes ¨ Grutt Pass (www.rekibun. Survival Ľta-ku) On the southern ¨ Highway buses headed Japan Rail (JR) lines, ‘packed in like sardines’ is chart above the ticket com) Minamalist, modern 45 minutes), where you (¥200/day). Picture ID is ¨ Cabbies usually don’t or.jp/grutto; pass ¥2000) is edge of Tokyo and much to the Mt Fuji area leave 13 subway lines – four an understatement. machines. If your journey can pick up the subway. required. speak English and have a good deal if you plan ryokan with friendly more convenient than Tokyo Station from the Shinjuku operated by Toei and nine involves lines run by Essential Trains also stop at Nip- trouble À nding all but the ¨ All train stations have to hit a lot of museums. managers in Yanaka. Narita. Tokyo Station is the ter- Highway Bus Terminal by Tokyo Metro – and diՖ erent operators, you’ll pori Station for transfers most well-known spots. English signage and the Information Valid for two months, ¨ Tokyo Monorail minus for the shinkansen Boat (ᣂኋ㜞ㅦࡃࠬ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞; need to purchase a trans- to the JR Yamanote Line. Fortunately many have it oՖ ers discounted – (᧲੩ࡕࡁ࡟࡯࡞; www. (bullet train). y Best for… combining Map p108, B2; %5376-2222; fer ticket. Get tickets from the and sometimes free – sightseeing with transport. www.highwaybus.com/html/ Business Hours counter at Narita Keisei tokyo-monorail.co.jp/english) ¨ Connect here to the ¨ If you can’t work out admission to more than Arriving In Runs frequently, gp/foreign/en/access/index. Exceptions to the follow- Station in either terminal. JR Yamanote Line or the ¨ Tokyo Cruise (᳓਄ how much to pay, one 70 museums in greater html; 1-10-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Train Passes ing hours are noted in the 5.15am to midnight, to Marunouchi subway line ࡃࠬ; Map p148, C3; Suijľ easy trick is to buy a Tokyo; purchase at any of Tokyo ¨ Keisei Main Line (੩ listings. Hamamatsuchľ Station for points around the Shinjuku-ku; h6am-11.30pm; Suica (www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/suica) This is a prepaid train pass À tted with ticket at the cheapest the a՗ liated museums. ᚑᧄ✢) TokkyŚ (special Bus; http://suijobus.co.jp) (¥470, 25 minutes), city centre, from 5am to dJR Yamanote Line to an electromagnetic chip. To use it, swipe it over the card reader on any auto- fare (¥130 for JR; ¥160 Banks 9am to 3pm Mon- y Top Tip For the best Water buses run up and express) trains run the where you can transfer to Shinjuku, west exit). Reserve for Tokyo Metro; ¥170 way to get to your accom- midnight. down the Sumida-gawa matic ticket gates. It works on all city trains, subways and buses, and makes day to Friday Electricity same route as the Sky- the JR Yamanote Line. tickets online in advance. Guide modation, see p 188 . (), roughly transferring between multiple lines and calculating fares a no-brainer. Get one for Toei) and use one liner twice an hour 10am Bars 5pm to late Monday ੩ᕆ of the ‘fare adjustment’ to 9pm. This budget ¨ KeikyŚ Line ( twice an hour between from a ticket vending machine at any JR station; note that Suica cards require to Saturday ✢; www.haneda-tokyo- 10am and 6pm, connect- Taxi a ¥500 deposit, refundable when you return it to a JR window. machines, near the exit Narita Airport option costs ¥1000 and access.com/en/transport/) ing Asakusa with Hama- y Best for… late nights gates, to settle the diՖ er- Boutiques noon to 8pm takes 1½ hours to Ueno Getting Suica & N’EX (Narita) or Suica & Monorail (Haneda) packages, available Narita Airport (ᚑ↰ⓨ Airport Express trains rikyŚ Onshi-teien (¥720, and groups sharing the ence at the end of your Clubs 10am to 5am ᷼ or Nippori. at either airport from the JR EAST Travel Service Centers (http://www.jreast. journey. ; 0476-34-8000; www. run frequently, 5.20am Around 35 minutes) and Odaiba cost. Thursday to Saturday ¨ ࡝ࡓࠫ co.jp/e/customer_support/service_center.html), are an excellent deal com- narita-airport.jp/en; Narita- Limousine Bus ( to midnight, from KeikyŚ (¥1520, 50 minutes). ¨ You’ll need a valid train ¨ Flagfall is ¥710. After Department Stores shi, Chiba-ken) is 66km ࡦࡃࠬ; www.limousinebus. Tickets can be purchased bining a prepaid Suica card with discounted transport to and from the airport. Haneda Station to Shi- Bicycle 2km the meter starts ticket to exit the station, east of Tokyo. co.jp/en) Coaches depart immediately before 10am to 8pm Tips and tricks nagawa Station (¥400, y Best for… exploring to clock an additional Day passes Can save you money if you plan to cover a lot of ground in one so make sure to pick it up regularly from Narita, departure, if available, at ¨ Narita Express (N’EX; 16 minutes), where you local neighbourhoods. ¥100 for every 350m day. You’ll need to get one that covers the rail lines you’ll be using, and pur- when it pops out of the Museums 9am to 5pm 7am to 10.30pm, for any pier. ᚑ↰ࠛࠢࠬࡊ࡟ࠬ; www. can transfer to the JR (and up to ¥100 for every chase it from one of the station windows on those lines: entry gates. major hotels and train ¨ Cycling is an excellent Post O՗ ces 9am to 5pm jreast.co.jp/e/nex/index.html) Yamanote Line. two minutes you sit idly stations such as Shinjuku way to get around some ¨ Tokyo Metro 1-Day Open Ticket costs ¥710 (child ¥360) and covers Tokyo ¨ Tokyo’s competing rail Restaurants lunch Trains run approximately ¨ Limousine Bus Bus in tra՗ c). It adds up lines can make getting (¥3000, 1½ hours). Get of the fringe neighbour- Metro subway lines. 11.30am to 2.30pm, every half-hour, 7.30am Coaches connect Haneda y Best for… getting quickly – À gure around from point A to point B – tickets from the Limou- hoods, though the tra՗ c dinner 6pm to 10pm; to 9.45pm, to Tokyo Sta- around residential neigh- ¥2500 for a ride from ¨ Common 1-Day Ticket costs ¥1000 (child ¥500) and covers both Tokyo sine Bus counter near with major hubs such as is not for the faint of in the cheapest, most tion (¥2940, 53 minutes), bourhoods and out of Ginza to Roppongi. Metro and lines. larger restaurants stay the arrival gates at either Shibuya (¥1000), Shin- heart. economical way – a little with branches heading juku (¥1200) and Tokyo the city. ¨ Tokyo Combination Ticket costs ¥1580 (child ¥790) and covers JR trains confusing. Jorudan (www. open throughout the 100V/50Hz terminal. ¨ Some budget ac- to Shinjuku, Shibuya or Station (¥900). Travel in Tokyo and all subway lines. jorudan.co.jp/english/nori- afternoon. for a seamless, commodation (espe- Shinagawa stations (all time depends on tra՗ c hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

2-how-to-pk-tok4.indd 2 18/06/2013 2:53:04 PM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Tokyo 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Tokyo . v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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2-how-to-pk-tok4.indd 3 18/06/2013 2:53:16 PM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Tokyo 21 Tokyo Top Sights ...... 8 22 Imperial Palace & Tokyo Local Life ...... 12 Marunouchi (Tokyo Station) Tokyo Day Planner ...... 14 32 Tsukiji Fish Market & Ginza Need to Know ...... 16 Tokyo Neighbourhoods ...... 18 48 Roppongi & Akasaka

64 Ebisu & Meguro

74 Shibuya

88 Harajuku & Aoyama

104 Shinjuku

118 Iidabashi & Around

128 Ueno

142 Tokyo Sky Tree & Asakusa

Worth a Trip: Sumō at Ryōgoku Kokugikan ...... 46 Hanging out in Shimo-Kitazawa ...... 86 An Afternoon in Akihabara ...... 126 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari ...... 156 Mt Fuji ...... 158

3-contents-pk-tok4.indd 4 18/06/2013 2:57:06 PM The Best of Survival Tokyo 163 Guide 187 Tokyo’s Best Walks Before You Go ...... 188 Contemporary Architecture in Arriving in Tokyo ...... 190 Omote-sandō ...... 164 Getting Around ...... 191 Asakusa Shitamachi ...... 166 Essential Information ...... 193 Historic Marunouchi & Ginza ...... 168 Language ...... 198

Tokyo’s Best… Architecture ...... 170 Temples & Shrines ...... 172 Parks & Gardens ...... 173 Galleries & Museums ...... 174 Food ...... 176 Sentō & Onsen ...... 178 Traditional Theatre & Dance ...... 179 Shopping & Markets ...... 180 Nightlife & Live Music ...... 182 Pop Culture ...... 184 Gay & Lesbian ...... 185 For Kids ...... 186

3-contents-pk-tok4.indd 5 18/06/2013 2:57:11 PM 4-quickstart-pk-tok4.indd 6 18/06/2013 2:58:33 PM 7 QuickStart Guide Tokyo Top Sights ...... 8 Tokyo Local Life ...... 12 Toyko Day Planner ...... 14 Need to Know ...... 16 Tokyo Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Tokyo

Tokyo is a city forever reaching into the future, resulting in sci-fi streetscapes of crackling neon and soaring towers. Yet it is also a city steeped in history, where you can find traces of the shōgun’s capital on the kabuki stage or under the cherry blossoms. It’s a tapestry of sensorial madness unlike anywhere else in the world.

Shinjuku (p104 ) MARC FERNANDEZ DIAZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

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