Houston's Culinary Trendsetters

OCTOBER 2020

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OCTOBER 2020

PUBLISHER Kamilla Batchelor | [email protected]

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Gabriela De la Rosa | [email protected] Let's Eat! AD DESIGNER Evan Deuvall

OH, HOUSTON, ARE YOU IN FOR A TREAT. This month is all about food—the LAYOUT DESIGNER prettiest, trendiest, newest and tastiest foods we can find. Jayme Emery

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Houston is known for its oil and gas, sports teams and ethnically diverse population, Radhika Patel but what people are really starting to rave about is the food scene. As Houstonians, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS we are a gastronomically spoiled bunch - delicious cuisine from every country, eth- Yvonne Villegas-Vasquez nicity, and trend is literally just a short drive away. Craving a unicorn milkshake? Fajitas covered in gold? Crawfish so spicy you have to wear gloves? Yes, we have it all and people from all over the country are starting to notice. Houston has become the venerable culinary “cool kid” and we couldn’t be prouder.

On the cover this month are three chefs who are setting the standard for what a good dining experience is. Collectively, Chefs Justin Yu, Felipe Riccio, and Sash Kurgan lend their talents to nine restaurants scattered across the city. Even in a restaurant dense city like ours, their expertise stands out. CORPORATE TEAM This issue is full of great tips on everything from stress-free entertaining to grilling CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Steven Schowengerdt up a great weekend meal and even vegan snacks. We hope it excites your taste CHIEF SALES OFFICER Matthew Perry buds and inspires you to add something new to your culinary rotation. CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DeLand Shore ART DIRECTOR Sara Minor Stay safe and well! OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Janeane Thompson AD MANAGER Chad Jensen Happy eating, Houston. REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Eric Williams WEB APPLICATIONS Michael O’Connell

Gabriela De la Rosa, Editorial Coordinator 514 W 26TH ST., KANSAS CITY, MO

and Justin Yu Proverbs 3:5-6 CityLifestyle.com/RiverOaks Location: Rosie Cannonball River Oaks Lifestyle™ is published monthly by Lifestyle Publications LLC. It is distributed via the US Postal Service to some of the River Oaks area’s most affluent neighborhoods. Articles PHOTOGRAPHY BY and advertisements do not necessarily reflect Lifestyle Publications’ opinions. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent. Lifestyle Publications YVONNE VILLEGAS-VASQUEZ does not assume responsibility for statements made by advertisers or editorial contributors. Information in River Oaks Lifestyle™ is gathered from sources considered to be reliable, but the 4 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 accuracy of all information cannot be guaranteed.

INSIDE THE ISSUE OCTOBER 2020

FEATURES 08 King of the Grill Executive chef Joey Chavez shares a nostalgic recipe from his childhood with a modern twist.

10 The Art of Stress- Free Entertaining Restaurateur Benjamin Berg gives his favorite tips for a night of delicious fun.

18 On Our Radar: Ostia New American cuisine with undertones of Italian and Mediterranean flavors await at Ostia.

32 Houston’s Culinary Trendsetters Chefs Justin Yu, Felipe Riccio & Sash Kurgan on motivation, memories, and 32 cooking during a pandemic. 18 08

10 DEPARTMENTS 4 Lifestyle Letter

8 Times Past

10 DIY

14 Healthy Lifestyle

18 Hot Spot

22 Road Trip

28 Local’s Choice

32 Local Limelight

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Photo credit Kimberly Park EVERY CHEF HAS A FAVORITE DISH – SOMETHING THAT BRINGS BACK THE DELICIOUS NOSTALGIA OF THEIR YOUTH. For Brennan’s of Houston executive chef Joey Chavez, that dish is beef ribs. Chavez grew up with Sundays dedicated to King of two things, barbeque and yard work. After a long day of work, he watched his dad fire up the grill and cook what would eventually become his favorite dish. Chavez, who has been at the helm of well- the Grill known restaurants and cooked alongside notable chefs all over the country, decided to make his dad’s recipe his own and has served beef plate short ribs in nearly every BRENNAN’S OF HOUSTON EXECUTIVE CHEF restaurant he has worked in. JOEY CHAVEZ SHARES A NOSTALGIC RECIPE FROM HIS CHILDHOOD Smoked Beef ARTICLE GABI DE LA ROSA Plate Short Ribs 4 - 6 Beef plate short ribs Beef Cure: + 1 cup salt + ½ cup sugar + 1 cup ground coffee + 1 tablespoon ground thyme + 1 tablespoon ground coriander + 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper + 2 tablespoons granulated garlic + 1 tablespoon ground ginger

Mix all ingredients together. Rub beef ribs until completely covered and refrigerate over- night. Remove ribs from refrigerator. Pour off the marinade, rinse ribs well under cold water and pat ribs dry with paper towels. Turn grill on high heat and sear ribs over high heat until all sides of ribs have caramel- ized. Allow them to cool. After caramelizing all sides of the ribs, turn heat down to medium on two-thirds of the grill, leaving the burner under the last third of the grill where the meat will cook on low. Paint ribs heavily with BBQ sauce. Close lid of grill and allow the ribs to cook, checking every 10 minutes to make sure they don’t burn and applying more sauce if necessary. Cook ribs to medium, or when tender when

Executive chef, Joey Chavez. pressed down with your fingers. Remove ribs Photo credit Kimberly Park from grill, cover and rest for about 10 minutes.

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RESTAURATEUR BENJAMIN BERG SHARES HIS FAVORITE TIPS FOR A NIGHT OF DELICIOUS FUN.

ARTICLE GABI DE LA ROSA

10 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 HOSTING A SUCCESSFUL FÊTE STEPS/HOW TO IS QUITE AN ACHIEVEMENT FOR A HOME CHEF, BUT FOR A Create a great ambiance with music, 1 20-YEAR INDUSTRY VETERAN lighting, and candles. “Being in the LIKE BENJAMIN BERG, IT IS JUST ANOTHER DAY AT THE OFFICE. 2 Have champagne and wine ready restaurant Berg, founder and CEO of Berg to offer as people arrive. It sets the Hospitality, opened B&B Butchers & mood and puts everybody at ease. industry, I have Restaurant in 2015 and the restaurant has been a staple in Houston’s upscale 3 Have great appetizers passed or a passion for steakhouse roundup ever since. Berg on display when guests arrive so has since opened a second B&B they can snack on them. When I am hospitality. I love Butchers & Restaurant in Fort Worth entertaining in my home, a cheese and several concepts in Houston, and charcuterie platter from The being a part of including ultra-sophisticated Turner’s Butcher Shop at B&B Butchers & helping friends and a revamp of Café Annie - both Restaurant is always an appetizer. projects with James Beard award-win- Other universal crowd-pleasers are and family create ning chef Robert Del Grande. pigs in a blanket (you would be sur- After so many years in the hospi- prised how fast these go at a party) new and lasting tality industry, Berg takes the job of and mini crab cakes. infusing his guests’ experiences with memories.” fun and delicious food. Whether he is 4 Plan the meal out a few weeks at one of his restaurants or entertain- before, and make sure you accom- ing at home, he believes both are at modate any dietary restrictions. the heart of any good gathering. After so much forced time apart, the next 5 Always have plenty of ice and a fully Photo Credit Felix Sanchez time it is safe to gather should be as stocked bar. If it is a large party and, memorable as possible, so we asked in your budget, hire a server and bar- Berg to share his favorite tips on how tender to help. It makes the party feel to turn a fun evening into a party your more festive and causes less stress for guests won’t want to leave. the host, and the bartender also helps control the alcohol consumption.

Photo Credit Alex Wu

CityLifestyle.com/RiverOaks 11

HEALTHY LIFESTYLE

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Beautiful Smiles for Miles

INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNIZED COSMETIC DENTIST, DR. NED SHIMIZU GIVES HOUSTONIANS THE SMILES THEY DESERVE.

COSMETIC DENTISTS ARE IN DEMAND; ACCORDING TO A RECENT STUDY BY THE AMERICAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DENTISTRY, THE NUMBER OF COSMETIC DENTISTRY PROCEDURES HAS EXPERIENCED GROWTH IN EXCESS OF 200 PERCENT, AND DOL- LARS SPENT ON COSMETIC DENTISTRY HAVE DOUBLED IN THE PAST FIVE YEARS. Houstonians have a wide choice of cosmetic dentists to choose from, and Dr. Ned Shimizu, a Japanese native, is at the top of that list.

14 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 Dr. Ned Shimizu Shimizu practiced for seven years in Japan before moving to the United States. He quickly garnered praise and became the sole recipient of the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry's People's Choice Award in Houston. After graduat- ing from Loma Linda University, Shimizu received his Accredited Member status from the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry (AACD) in 2011. This prestigious Accredited Member status is awarded to only 414 cosmetic dentists globally and allows them access to the latest, most innovative methods and techniques in the field of cosmetic dentistry. Aside from dentistry, Shimizu has a passion for photography and regularly combines the two skillsets when working with patients. He under- stands the importance of function as well as creating an aesthetically pleasing smile. His ability to combine his passion for art and photography with technical expertise is an asset when working with his patients, "function is important, but you need to make it look nice too." An artistic eye allows him to create and shape the tooth while using cutting-edge technology to make sure teeth remain intact and in a healthy condition. Shimizu works with a microscope that has 10-15 times the magnification of typical loupes used in cosmetic dentistry. "This type of microscope allows for a better fit, and there are maybe three dentists other than endodontists in Houston that have this type of microscope." Shimizu's philosophy focuses on touching as few teeth as possible in a minimally invasive way to ensure the patient has good teeth to work with down the line. "I want to minimize intervention and touch a smaller number of teeth, which is better so that there is still some tooth to work with in the future." Although cosmetic dentists aren't seen as artists, Dr. Shimizu is the exception. His patients receive top-of-the-line, minimally invasive care with the eye of an artist and the technical expertise “I want to minimize intervention of someone at the pinnacle of their profession. "I'm doing what I like the best. I like cosmetic dentistry, and touch a smaller number of and I like photography." Besides exceptional ability, skill, local and global recognition, is there much teeth, which is better so that else you could ask for from your cosmetic dentist? there is still some tooth to work with in the future.”

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Jennifer Deaver Peterson, MD is a triple-board certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon through the American Board of Dermatology, the American Board of Cosmetic Surgery in Dermatologic Cosmetic Surgery, and the American Board of Facial Cosmetic Surgery. She was born and raised in Houston, TX, and graduated magna cum laude from Texas A&M University. Dr. Deaver Peterson completed her dermatology residency training at Texas Tech in 2009. In 2010, she completed a prestigious laser and cosmetic surgery fellowship program at Cosmetic Laser Dermatology in La Jolla, CA.

Tracy Katz, MD is board-certified through the American Board of Dermatology and has practiced cosmetic and medical dermatology in her native Houston, Texas for the past six years. She attended The University of Texas at Austin and graduated with Honors with a degree in Government and Biology in 2002. She then attended 550 Post Oak Boulevard, Ste. 550, Houston the University of Texas Medical School in Houston from which she graduated in 2007. Dr. Katz completed an internship in internal 713.497.1417 medicine at The University of Texas Medical School in Houston followed by residency in dermatology at The University of Kansas thepearldermatology.com in Kansas City, MO.

HOT SPOT

NEW AMERICAN CUISINE WITH UNDERTONES OF ITALIAN AND MEDITERRANEAN FLAVORS AWAIT AT OSTIA.

18 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 ARTICLE GABI DE LA ROSA On Our Radar: Ostia

Grilled shrimp with harissa. Photo Credit Jenn Duncan

HOUSTON'S RESTAURANT OF THE MOMENT, OSTIA, OPENED IN SEPTEMBER AND HAS ALREADY MADE A NAME FOR ITSELF IN THE CULINARY DENSE MONTROSE NEIGHBOR- HOOD. The casually elegant venue is the brainchild of Houston native Travis McShane, a University of Texas and CIA grad. For more than a decade, McShane has been cooking in kitchens nationwide under the tutelage of acclaimed chef Jonathan Waxman and ulti- mately ended up overseeing all culinary operations for Waxman's restaurants in New York City, San Francisco, Nashville, and Atlanta. Ostia, which means host in Italian, is McShane's first solo ven- ture, and although he has cooked all over the country, the decision to open his first restaurant in Houston was an easy one. "No matter where I have lived, I have always claimed Houston as home," said the chef. "It's a massive city full of culture and diversity with some of the most genuine people I've ever met. There are tons of restaurants and a lot of people who want to dine out, so the market is not saturated and allows healthy competition between chefs. Between the market, people, and my family, it was an easy decision to make." A confluence of Mediterranean and Italian inspired flavors from McShane's extensive travels fill the menu at Ostia. The chef focuses on local and sustainable food, with the cornerstone being season- ality and simplicity. McShane’s elevated flavor profiles coupled with the ambiance, created by star designer Jon de la Cruz of DLC-ID, could easily fit in a stuffy restaurant. However, McShane was ada- mant that Ostia have a neighborhood feel. "We want our guests to feel like they can come join us on an impromptu weekday evening yet still want to come to celebrate the special days in their lives," said McShane. "Ostia should feel like a place they can just come and have a great time no matter the occasion." As we are all drinking and carb-loading away the stresses of late, the promise of indoor/outdoor seating, delicious handmade pasta, and a robust beverage program are the prerequisites of a good dining experience. Prepare yourself Houston, because Ostia distinctly delivers on those and so much more.

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Road Trip Ready

22 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 Photo Credit Courtesy of Chevrolet

IN THE WAKE OF CORONAVIRUS, WE HAVE ALL BECOME GERMAPHOBES WHICH HAS LEFT MANY DITCHING THEIR PASSPORTS AND AIRLINE DRINK TICKETS FOR TRIPS A LIT- TLE CLOSER TO HOME. Industry experts agree that it could be several months or even years for people to feel completely safe flying again and until then – road trips are back in a big way. While planning your next road trip, why not make it an eco-friendly one by choosing an outdoor location, an eco-friendly car, and all-natural snacks. As Houstonians, we have an abundance of road trip locations where we can get away from the daily freeway grind and opt for a peaceful setting. The best part of a road trip is the ride, and this could be a great opportunity to try out an electric car. The Chevrolet Bolt EV is an all-electric vehicle that offers an EPA-estimated 259 miles of range on a full charge. It seats five, is as easy to charge as a cell phone, and comes standard with several safety features like 10 airbags and an HD rear vision camera. You will look great gliding up to any one of these fantastic green spaces in the Houston area.

Brazos Bend State Park is located 45 miles from downtown Houston. The state park is a great place to fish, bike, or hike and you can even reserve a camping spot to spend the night. One of the best things about Brazos Bend is the alligators which can be observed in their natural habitat year-round.

Sam Houston National Forrest is located 50 miles north of Houston between Huntsville and Conroe. One of four National Forests in Texas it is a great place for star gazing, camping, or getting out on the water at Double Lake Recreation area. Rent a canoe or kayak and hit the water.

Galveston Island is so close to downtown Houston that you can be feeling the island breeze in about an hour. There are several parks to choose from including East Beach, Stewart Beach, and if you feel like island hopping – you can head to Bolivar Peninsula.

CONTINUED >

CityLifestyle.com/RiverOaks 23 ROAD TRIP (CONTINUED)

Photo Credit Sinfull Bakery

snacks

Now that you have your car and locations settled, it’s time to find the perfect snacks for your eco-road trip. Sinfull Bakery has been a Houston favorite since it hit the food scene in 2010. All the baked goods from Sinfull Bakery are vegan and made from scratch with all-natural and mostly organic ingredients. There are so many delicious Sinfull Bakery snacks to choose from it will be easy to find the perfect vegan snack for your Houston road trip.

Strawberry Cream Cheese Kolaches from 1. Sinfull Bakery make a great breakfast or afternoon pick-me-up and nothing says Texas quite like a kolache.

2. Sinfull Bakery has several delicious cookie flavors to choose from. You'll love their large size - they are perfect for sharing.

3. Vegan cinnamon rolls for breakfast, lunch or dinner, please! What makes Sinfull Bakery cinnamon rolls special? They weigh in at 2 pounds each and you won't want to miss their specialty flavors.

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CityLifestyle.com/RiverOaks 31 LOCAL LIMELIGHT Houston’s Culinary Trendsetters CHEFS JUSTIN YU, FELIPE RICCIO AND SASH KURGAN ON MOTIVATION, MEMORIES, AND COOKING DURING A PANDEMIC. ARTICLE GABI DE ROSA LA | PHOTOGRAPHY VILLEGAS-VASQUEZ YVONNE DETAILS: Restaurant: Theodore Rex, Squable, Better Luck Tomorrow, Public Services Wine and Whisky Justin Yu Position: Chef/Owner

HOW DO YOU SPREAD YOUR TIME ACROSS DO YOU FEEL THAT YOU ARE SCRUTINIZED MORE DIFFERENT CONCEPTS/KITCHENS? THAN OTHER CHEFS BECAUSE YOU HAVE SO It’s hard to map out exactly how my days or weeks will MANY ACCOLADES? HOW DO YOU STAY OUT FROM go concretely, but I’d say that my time in the kitchens is UNDER THAT? based on seasonal needs or just plain “putting out of the Of course, some expectations come with the amount of fire” (ideally figuratively, not literally) in the kitchens. I’m attention that we’ve been lucky to receive, but I take it as fortunate to have very talented chefs on-site at all the dif- a charge to continue to push and consistently over-deliver ferent restaurants and bars, so I can sort of draw a loose on expectations. Whether it is food, service, guest com- blueprint of where I need to be at a particular time. fort, or small bits and touches to make every experience memorable, we’re continually self-scouting for areas we JAMES BEARD AWARD WINNER – DOES IT STILL can improve on. THRILL YOU TO HEAR THAT EVEN 4 YEARS LATER? It’s still crazy to me. It was an unforgettable experience WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MEAL? that you only dream about and never think that you might I had spent most of my life saving to cook for free and actually get there. It was amazing to hear my name, be on learn in European kitchens when I ate at the Sportsman that stage looking across a sea of captains of the industry outside of London. From the simplicity in its food, the and celebrate it with my restaurant family and the city that restaurant’s unassuming nature, to how every bit and raised me. That being said, I refuse to let it be paramount piece of the dining experience was curated – it was a meal of my career. I’ll never forget.

32 River Oaks Lifestyle | October 2020 WHAT GOT YOU INTERESTED IN COOKING? Growing up, my family would get together often, and my grandma and my dad would spend the whole day cooking. I saw cooking as an essential thing to do, and I took a lot of interest in it. Early on, I told my parents I wanted to be a lawyer and a chef on the side. After I took one criminal justice class, I quickly realized I didn’t want to become a lawyer and instead, I looked into the culinary program at my high school. I went straight into culinary school after graduation and besides a short hiatus to study wine, I’ve been cooking.

YOU HAVE TRAVELED QUITE A BIT IN YOUR CAREER - WHAT INTERNATIONAL SENSIBILITIES DO YOU BRING TO YOUR DISHES? I am originally from Mexico City, but I grew up in Veracruz. My parents are of Spanish and Italian origins, so I grew up surrounded by three different cultures. As a teenager, I moved to Houston and as an adult, I lived in Europe. All these things have undoubtedly influenced my palate and the way I see food.

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU LEARNED AS A CHEF DURING A GLOBAL PANDEMIC? I think our entire culinary team learned the value and importance of serving people in our restaurants. Most of us are chefs, because we love cooking and because we love cooking for people. Takeout has been a survival tool for most restaurants, but it is not enough to feed the drive in our hearts and minds to cook day in and day out. Seeing people enjoy each other’s com- pany while eating the food we prepared is key to our DETAILS: industry’s survival. Restaurant: Rosie Cannonball, Montrose Cheese&Wine, March Restaurant, Goodnight Charlie’s WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MEAL? Position: Chef/Partner My most memorable meal so far was at Reale in Abruzzo, Italy. The three-star Michelin restaurant is led by Niko and Cristiana Romito, a brother and sister team. Located in Cassadonna, a 16th-century former FELIPE monastery turned into a 6-bedroom hotel. Chef Niko’s RICCIO way of viewing flavor is a continued inspiration for me. CONTINUED >

CityLifestyle.com/RiverOaks 33 LOCAL LIMELIGHT (CONTINUED)

DETAILS: Restaurant: Doris Metropolitan Position: Chef, Co-owner (Culinary Director) SASH KURGAN

HOW IS THE FOOD SCENE IN HOUSTON DIFFERENT remaining open-minded. We were forced to think outside FROM OTHER PLACES YOU’VE WORKED? the box within such a short time, and the ability to adapt to Houston’s food scene is very dynamic – I feel like it the evolving situation is the real test. would take years to explore the diverse culinary scene Houston has to offer. We’re fortunate that we live in such WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MEAL? a strong multi-cultural city with unique cuisines that accu- My most memorable meal took place in Tuscany, Italy, rately reflect those ethnicities – especially in China Town. at a beautiful farm called “poggio del Castagno.” I was 23 years old, and it was my real first farm to table feast. I was HOW DO YOU STAY CREATIVELY INSPIRED on a gorgeous farm with the beautiful people who ran it, IN THE KITCHEN? and together we spent the entire day cooking. Nothing In today’s world, it’s like a huge amusement park for was rushed, and you could feel that a significant part of chefs. Cooks can learn and get inspired by searching the dinner was the time you used to make it, the complete internet, which takes away from the craft and makes the opposite of the fast world I was used to and living in. It world a much more accessible place. You can now travel was the longest and most satisfying meal I ever had, but it the world and get inspired sitting on a chair in your room. wasn’t all about eating, it was about gathering.

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU LEARNED AS A CHEF DURING A GLOBAL PANDEMIC? The most important thing that I’ve learned from the pandemic is the ability to be flexible, but creative while

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