150 Years in the Making Contents Introduction Chapter One: The Fabric of Ireland [Pre 1866] Chapter Two: Open for Business [1866-1973] Chapter Three: Life in the Mills [1873-1900] Chapter Four: A New Century [1900-1912] Chapter Five: A Titanic Order [1912-1914] Chapter Six: Linen in Recession [1914-1939] Chapter Seven: War Benefits [1939-1945] Chapter Eight: A Weaver’s Tale [1945 – 1950] Chapter Nine: Luxury Sells [1950-1961] Chapter Ten: Big Changes Ahead [1961 to 1973] Chapter Eleven: William Meets William [1973 – 1980] Chapter Twelve: Flying High [1980 – 2000] Chapter Thirteen: Unlucky for Some [2000 – 2004] Chapter Fourteen: A Tale of Two Cities [2004 – 2007] Chapter Fifteen: Administration Looms [2007 – 2008] Chapter Sixteen: A New Vision [2008-2010] Chapter Seventeen: The Tables Turn [2010-2014] Chapter Eighteen: Expansion & Growth [2014 - 2015] Chapter Nineteen: A Celebration Year [2016 onwards] 2 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making Introduction “Often people ask me how the Liddell name has managed to survive so long in a world which changes so quickly. When you look back over the last 150 years and not only look at the sheer magnitude of changes in technology and mass production, but also in the socio-economic landscape and British and Irish cultures, it’s astonishing to think exactly what Liddell has overcome and how the brand has grown. It hasn’t been easy, and there were times when it looked like Liddell might not make it, but it has always come back fighting. When looking at how exactly Liddell has survived for 15 decades, through two world wars and countless recessions, the answer is easy; our people. You only have to look back throughout Liddell’s history to know that our staff were always looked after and well respected; from the inception of a health scheme that ran to serve the factory’s employees long before the NHS was born, to the modern day friendly atmosphere we try so hard to maintain. In our business there are no egos or self-driven characters, we create an environment that allows our staff to grow, learn and develop their passions everyday – and that’s the way it’s always been.” Dan Wright, Current Chairman of Liddell 3 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making The man who started it all… Born in 1830, William Nicholson Liddell was described as a smart and intuitive businessman who had the utmost respect for his employees. Although William quickly became a wealthy man, he always sought to ensure his staff were well paid and well looked after. It is this objective of treating his employees as people, rather than workers, which would help see Liddell through 15 decades – and it is an objective we still maintain to this day. 5 Chapter One - The Fabric of Ireland During the 18th Century Ireland was widely regarded as the linen capital of the world… In 1784 the White Linen Hall was built in the city of Belfast, with local merchants attempting to take control of the trade from Dublin. The linen trade in Belfast played a pivotal role in the social and economic development of the city and the manufacturing of linen was the catalyst that saw Belfast grow from a small town into one of Northern Ireland’s flourishing cities. In the 1860s it grew rapidly, becoming one of the largest linen exporters in the world, earning the nickname ‘Linenopolis.’ 1. Images: 1. 19th Century Belfast 2. White Linen Hall, Belfast 3. Carting the flax to the flax hole for steeping 4. Carting the flax to the flax hole opposite Banoe Mills, Donacloney, where flax was grown 5. Steeping the flax in the flax hole 2. Did you know: One of the oldest ancient colonies famous for using flax and linen were the Egyptians who used the fabric for clothing and furnishing; it was mainly favoured due to its cooling qualities which allowed them to cope much more easily in the extreme heat. It was also used for mummification and burial shrouds; Egyptian mummies were wrapped in coarse linen as a symbol of light and purity and as a display of wealth. 6 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making How Linen Came 3. to Ireland There are conflicting testimonials over whether linen was brought to Britain by the Phoenician traders or introduced by the Romans. However what we do know is that linen grew in popularity throughout the 14th and 15th centuries. Linen was especially favoured by the Tudors and we know from historic testimonials that flax (the plant from which linen is derived) was growing in abundance during this period. In fact, during the Tudor reign, the popularity of linen grew exponentially and it was in great quantity and demand during this time. The material is even said to have been favoured by King Henry VIII. 4. Evidence of the flax plant in Ireland can be traced as far back as 1000BC. However, it wasn’t until Westminster Parliament prohibited the export of manufactured woollen goods from Ireland in 1699 that linen became Ireland’s core focus. England was getting increasingly frustrated with Ireland due to its success in exporting woollen goods which was making the country rich. This competed directly with the English trade and, as a result, Parliament stopped the export of woollen goods from Ireland and encouraged the manufacturing of linen instead. Linen production continued to grow in Ireland, but it was the arrival of the Huguenots (most notably Louis Crommelin - an expert weaver who fled France to settle in Ulster) who were credited with improving the linen process and developing the industry in Belfast throughout the 17th century. The Huguenots, escaping persecution in France, brought with them the skills and 5. knowledge in the manufacture of silk and linen. In 1711, the Linen Board (A Board of Trustees of the Linen and Hempen Manufacturers of Ireland) was established to encourage, govern and extend the linen trade. The Linen Board helped grow the industry and introduced regulations to protect the industry and equally the Irish rivers from the retting process. The board lasted for 117 years. It was said during the time that Ireland had one of the best climates in the world for not only growing flax, but also bleaching linen, which undoubtedly led to the quality and finish of Irish Linen becoming favoured around the world. 7 Chapter Two – Open for Business After serving his apprenticeship from the age of 14 onwards, William Liddell set up ‘William Liddell and Company’ Image: William Liddell Donaghcloney in 1866 at the age of 36. factory 1866 Founded in Donaghcloney, Great timing: Due to the American Civil War (1861-1865) the shortage in the supply Ireland, the factory became of cotton turned the majority to the use of linen, this quickly enhanced linen’s value in the largest Irish linen the market place causing profits to grow substantially during the years 1863-68. jacquard weaving company William Liddell & Co had entered the market at a prosperous time and quickly began to in the country. capitalise on the growth of the linen trade. What is linen? Linen is a yarn or fabric made from the flax plant, Linum Usitatissimum. The cultivated plant takes around one hundred days to grow from seed to mature plant with a height of between sixty centimetres and a metre. Using a process called ‘retting’ (controlled rotting) fibre strands that run up the inner bark of its stems are released from the cellular; in Ireland this was traditionally completed in water, rivers, ponds or specialised retting dams. Flax was one of the first plant fibres to be used for making textile materials, which can be dated back to around 8000BC. Its fibres are among the longest and strongest of all natural fibres used by man, when wet they become stronger, dry quicker and resist decay better than most natural fibres. Donaghcloney’s position on the River Lagan made this the perfect place to grow and ret the flax, the river was used for the retting process whilst the acres of land around the factory grew the flax. Bleaching houses were built around the river to bleach the linen, Image: Flax plant ready for treatment (1908) which often took months at a time. 8 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making 1. William Liddell & Family William Liddell was led into the linen trade from the Nicholson family who were prosperous bleachers, it was with his Nicholson relatives where he served his apprenticeship to the linen trade at the age of 14. When he was 36 years old, William set up ‘William Liddell & Company’, with what his grandson Robin would later describe 2. as ‘outstanding ability and drive.’ It was William’s aim to make Liddell linen known around the world; it was an objective he more than achieved. William lived to see not only his ambitions for the company attained, but also his four sons; William Junior, Harry, Robert and Charles all went on to achieve successful careers. Born in 1830 as William Nicholson Liddell, he married Georgina Morris in 1859 and had four sons who each followed him into the linen trade. It was his youngest son, Charles, who later took on the leading role in the factory. William Liddell died on Christmas day in 1901, and up Images: 1. Flax plant ready for treatment (1908) until 2001 the Liddell business was ran by an 2. Carting the flax to flax hole for steeping (1908) ancestor of the original Liddell family. ‘A Man of Great Solitude’ William Liddell was a well liked character and well respected man in the local community.