150 Years in the Making Contents

Introduction

Chapter One: The Fabric of Ireland [Pre 1866]

Chapter Two: Open for Business [1866-1973]

Chapter Three: Life in the Mills [1873-1900]

Chapter Four: A New Century [1900-1912]

Chapter Five: A Order [1912-1914]

Chapter Six: in Recession [1914-1939]

Chapter Seven: War Benefits [1939-1945]

Chapter Eight: A Weaver’s Tale [1945 – 1950]

Chapter Nine: Luxury Sells [1950-1961]

Chapter Ten: Big Changes Ahead [1961 to 1973]

Chapter Eleven: William Meets William [1973 – 1980]

Chapter Twelve: Flying High [1980 – 2000]

Chapter Thirteen: Unlucky for Some [2000 – 2004]

Chapter Fourteen: A Tale of Two Cities [2004 – 2007]

Chapter Fifteen: Administration Looms [2007 – 2008]

Chapter Sixteen: A New Vision [2008-2010]

Chapter Seventeen: The Tables Turn [2010-2014]

Chapter Eighteen: Expansion & Growth [2014 - 2015]

Chapter Nineteen: A Celebration Year [2016 onwards]

2 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Introduction

“Often people ask me how the Liddell name has managed to survive so long in a world which changes so quickly. When you look back over the last 150 years and not only look at the sheer magnitude of changes in technology and , but also in the socio-economic landscape and British and Irish cultures, it’s astonishing to think exactly what Liddell has overcome and how the brand has grown. It hasn’t been easy, and there were times when it looked like Liddell might not make it, but it has always come back fighting. When looking at how exactly Liddell has survived for 15 decades, through two world wars and countless recessions, the answer is easy; our people. You only have to look back throughout Liddell’s history to know that our staff were always looked after and well respected; from the inception of a health scheme that ran to serve the factory’s employees long before the NHS was born, to the modern day friendly atmosphere we try so hard to maintain. In our business there are no egos or self-driven characters, we create an environment that allows our staff to grow, learn and develop their passions everyday – and that’s the way it’s always been.”

Dan Wright, Current Chairman of Liddell

3 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

The man who started it all…

Born in 1830, William Nicholson Liddell was described as a smart and intuitive businessman who had the utmost respect for his employees. Although William quickly became a wealthy man, he always sought to ensure his staff were well paid and well looked after. It is this objective of treating his employees as people, rather than workers, which would help see Liddell through 15 decades – and it is an objective we still maintain to this day.

5 Chapter One - The Fabric of Ireland

During the 18th Century Ireland was widely regarded as the linen capital of the world…

In 1784 the White Linen Hall was built in the city of , with local merchants attempting to take control of the trade from . The linen trade in Belfast played a pivotal role in the social and economic development of the city and the manufacturing of linen was the catalyst that saw Belfast grow from a small town into one of ’s flourishing cities. In the 1860s it grew rapidly, becoming one of the largest linen exporters in the world, earning the nickname ‘Linenopolis.’

1. Images: 1. 19th Century Belfast 2. White Linen Hall, Belfast 3. Carting the flax to the flax hole for steeping 4. Carting the flax to the flax hole opposite Banoe Mills, Donacloney, where flax was grown 5. Steeping the flax in the flax hole

2.

Did you know:

One of the oldest ancient colonies famous for using flax and linen were the Egyptians who used the fabric for clothing and furnishing; it was mainly favoured due to its cooling qualities which allowed them to cope much more easily in the extreme heat. It was also used for mummification and burial shrouds; Egyptian mummies were wrapped in coarse linen as a symbol of light and purity and as a display of wealth.

6 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

How Linen Came 3. to Ireland

There are conflicting testimonials over whether linen was brought to Britain by the Phoenician traders or introduced by the Romans. However what we do know is that linen grew in popularity throughout the 14th and 15th centuries. Linen was especially favoured by the Tudors and we know from historic testimonials that flax (the plant from which linen is derived) was growing in abundance during this period.

In fact, during the Tudor reign, the popularity of linen grew exponentially and it was in great quantity and demand during this time. The material is even said to have been favoured by King Henry VIII.

4. Evidence of the flax plant in Ireland can be traced as far back as 1000BC. However, it wasn’t until Westminster Parliament prohibited the export of manufactured woollen goods from Ireland in 1699 that linen became Ireland’s core focus.

England was getting increasingly frustrated with Ireland due to its success in exporting woollen goods which was making the country rich. This competed directly with the English trade and, as a result, Parliament stopped the export of woollen goods from Ireland and encouraged the manufacturing of linen instead.

Linen production continued to grow in Ireland, but it was the arrival of the Huguenots (most notably Louis Crommelin - an expert weaver who fled France to settle in ) who were credited with improving the linen process and developing the industry in Belfast throughout the 17th century. The Huguenots, escaping persecution in France, brought with them the skills and 5. knowledge in the manufacture of and linen.

In 1711, the Linen Board (A Board of Trustees of the Linen and Hempen Manufacturers of Ireland) was established to encourage, govern and extend the linen trade. The Linen Board helped grow the industry and introduced regulations to protect the industry and equally the Irish rivers from the retting process. The board lasted for 117 years.

It was said during the time that Ireland had one of the best climates in the world for not only growing flax, but also bleaching linen, which undoubtedly led to the quality and finish of becoming favoured around the world.

7 Chapter Two – Open for Business

After serving his apprenticeship from the age of 14 onwards, William Liddell set up ‘William

Liddell and Company’ Image: William Liddell in 1866 at the age of 36. factory 1866

Founded in Donaghcloney, Great timing: Due to the American Civil War (1861-1865) the shortage in the supply Ireland, the factory became of turned the majority to the use of linen, this quickly enhanced linen’s value in the largest Irish linen the market place causing profits to grow substantially during the years 1863-68. jacquard company William Liddell & Co had entered the market at a prosperous time and quickly began to in the country. capitalise on the growth of the linen trade.

What is linen?

Linen is a or fabric made from the flax plant, Linum Usitatissimum. The cultivated plant takes around one hundred days to grow from seed to mature plant with a height of between sixty centimetres and a metre. Using a process called ‘retting’ (controlled rotting) fibre strands that run up the inner bark of its stems are released from the cellular; in Ireland this was traditionally completed in water, rivers, ponds or specialised retting dams.

Flax was one of the first plant fibres to be used for making materials, which can be dated back to around 8000BC. Its fibres are among the longest and strongest of all natural fibres used by man, when wet they become stronger, dry quicker and resist decay better than most natural fibres.

Donaghcloney’s position on the made this the perfect place to grow and ret the flax, the river was used for the retting process whilst the acres of land around the factory grew the flax. Bleaching houses were built around the river to bleach the linen, Image: Flax plant ready for treatment (1908) which often took months at a time.

8 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

1. William Liddell & Family

William Liddell was led into the linen trade from the Nicholson family who were prosperous bleachers, it was with his Nicholson relatives where he served his apprenticeship to the linen trade at the age of 14. When he was 36 years old, William set up ‘William Liddell & Company’, with what his grandson Robin would later describe 2. as ‘outstanding ability and drive.’ It was William’s aim to make Liddell linen known around the world; it was an objective he more than achieved.

William lived to see not only his ambitions for the company attained, but also his four sons; William Junior, Harry, Robert and Charles all went on to achieve successful careers. Born in 1830 as William Nicholson Liddell, he married Georgina Morris in 1859 and had four sons who each followed him into the linen trade. It was his youngest son, Charles, who later took on the leading role in the factory. William Liddell died on Christmas day in 1901, and up

Images: 1. Flax plant ready for treatment (1908) until 2001 the Liddell business was ran by an 2. Carting the flax to flax hole for steeping (1908) ancestor of the original Liddell family.

‘A Man of Great Solitude’

William Liddell was a well liked character and well respected man in the local community. Not only was he the president and founder of William Liddell & Co but he was also a man who cared greatly for his workers. This was shown not only in his wages to staff, which were higher than average, but also through his creation of the Factory Society for the Sick; a form of health insurance for his factory staff. During his lifetime, William Liddell commissioned the build of new neighbourhoods around the factory, providing nearby accommodation for his workers to easily and safely travel to work.

Image: Factory Society for the Sick minutes

9 Chapter Three: Life in the Mills

In 1873 Belfast was the largest linen producing centre in the world, a position it held until the start of the First World War. By 1892, enough linen was being woven in Ireland to wrap a nine foot wide belt of cloth around the equator.

During the late 19th century, William Liddell & Co, like most mills at the time, employed mainly women, with the senior positions mostly filled by men. The light end of the work was done by the women and the heavy by the men, work that fell between the two descriptions was carried out by either sex.

A typical working week in the Donaghcloney factory was up to 55 and a half hours, this was actually less than the average weekly hours clocked by mill workers around at the time, who elsewhere were often expected to work above 60 hours per week, with only one hour each day for lunch. As a mill worker for William Liddell & Co, you could expect your working day to run Images: from 6am to 5.30pm, with 45 minutes for breakfast and 45 minutes for lunch. 1. Yarn reeling room On Saturdays the workers were required to work half a day, (1908) at 12:30pm. 2. Flax spinning room (1908) The mill employed children as young as eight years old, most of whom worked part time. A typical day for an eight year old worker in 1866 was half 3. Employee Contract a day working in the mill followed by half a day in school. In 1901, the legal book starting age was raised to 13. By 1907, there were over 3000 young people working in Belfast.

1. 2.

10 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making 3.

11 Chapter Three: Life in the Mills

Employees Matter: The Factory Society for the Sick

The Factory Society for the Sick was set up in 1877 to ensure the health of William Liddell’s factory workers; William knew that by looking after his staff, they would return the favour with skilful, quick work. Records cease on this society in 1913, presumably because of the war.

In 1877, William Liddell hired a doctor to work solely for this Society and therefore his workforce, his wage was £15 a year. When an employee died, the society would put £1 (or sometimes £2) towards the burial of the person. The society was formed from 11 senior members of the factory, who met once a week to discuss updates and finances, up until the records cease.

After William Liddell’s death on Christmas Day 1901, the minute book of the Factory Society for the Sick was documented as detailing the loss the Society and factory for their president.

In these minutes, he was described as a man of ‘sterling worth, to whom the welfare of his working people was matter of great solitude.’ It continued that this was witnessed ‘not only by the establishment of the Society, but the general immeasurable acts of kindness and generosity to very many.’

The transcript ends ‘We feel as well that his sons will prove worthy success much like their honoured father, we desire to offer our sympathy with his sorrowing widow and his family in their bereavement.’

Image: Minute book ‘He was a man of sterling worth’

Liddell Heads to New York

John O’Hare started working for William Liddell in 1879 at just 12 years of age, in 1892 he emigrated to New York where he was responsible for taking William Liddell & Co to the American market. As Liddell’s Western Representative, O’Hare lived and worked in New York right up until his death from influenza and pneumonia in 1919. In his 40 year career with the company, O’Hare saw Liddell expand successfully into global markets and was a huge catalyst in building Liddell’s brand in the US.

12 1. Did you know:

In 1896 William Liddell & Co produced a printed catalogue for its customers which shows us that not much has changed over the years. For example, Liddell’s Ivy Leaf table linen is still around today and is very similar to the linen that would have been offered 120 years ago. How many other products in the world today have stood the test of time?

2.

1. Linen products and sizes 2. Towelling products 3. Table linen

3.

The Ivy Leaf product is still available to buy today Chapter Four – A New Century

During the 19th century people flooded into Belfast to work in the new linen mills. By the start of the 20th century, the city was producing and exporting more linen than anywhere else in the world.

William Liddell & Co was especially prospering, driven by and the factory’s perfect position on the River Lagan, providing export routes to the rest of the world. By now the company had its own offices as far afield as Belfast, London, Melbourne, Toronto, Christchurch New Zealand, Shanghai, Yokohama Japan, Buenos Aries, Rio De Janeiro and Capetown, South Africa.

1903: William Liddell & Co featured in Century Magazine

In 1903, Liddell placed an advert in Century Magazine. The American magazine was the largest periodical in the country covering cultural, political and religious topics.

The magazine ceased publishing in 1930, and this particular ad goes on to become Liddell’s oldest surviving advert to date.

14 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

1908: Franco 1. British Exhibition

In 1908, William Liddell & Company took part in the Franco British Exhibition winning a gold medal award for bringing linen from the field to the home. The gold medal status brought the company global recognition and inspired the company to rename its award winning linen, to its ‘Gold Medal Collection.’ This now vintage linen can be found in auction houses around the world.

What was the Franco British Exhibition? 2. The Franco British Exhibition was the largest exhibition of its kind in Britain and the first international event to be sponsored by two countries; Britain and France. The exhibition attracted eight million visitors and celebrated the Entente Cordiale; an agreement made between Britain and France which resolved a long history of colonial disputes. The large public fair was held in an area of West London near Shepherd’s Bush (now known as the White City) - the area got its name from the network of elaborate exhibition buildings which were all painted white.

In 1908 the factory was way ahead of its time, with beautiful fabrics on sale and even a designing room completing bespoke 3. branded linen for many hotels and hospitality establishments. It’s a service Liddell has offered for over 100 years.

Images: 1. Liddell Franco-British Expo brochure (1908) 2. Damask Tablecloths (1908) 3. Damask Tablecloths (1908)

15 Chapter Five - A Titanic Order

On April 10th 1912, the Titanic set sail on her maiden voyage across the Atlantic Ocean with the finest Liddell linen on board. Just four days later, the ship went on to make history as it claimed more than 1,500 lives.

During the early 20th century, William Liddell & Co was the preferred linen supplier of bed linen, table linen and bath linen to the Oceanic Steam Navigation Company (OSNC), owners of the White Star Line. William Liddell supplied the whole line of OSNC’s vessels, including Titanic’s sister ships, the Olympic and Britannic. It resulted in a contract worth around £250,000 in today’s money that would have been repeated two to three times a year.

Did you know:

OSNC was headed up by overarching parent company J.P Morgan. Interestingly, J.P. Morgan himself was booked to travel on the Titanic, but cancelled at the last minute.

Each of the three sister vessels would have had major differences between the first, second and third classes. A first class ticket on the Titanic would have ranged anywhere from 30 pounds to 870 pounds; if you were to buy a first class ticket for the Titanic today you would expect to pay an average of around $70,000.

16 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

17 Chapter Five - A Titanic Order

When she set sail, Titanic had on board:

• 45,000 napkins • 25,000 towels • 15,000 single sheets • 15,000 pillow cases • 7,500 bath towels • 7,500 blankets • 6,000 table cloths • 4,000 aprons • 3,000 double sheets • 800 quilts

Image: Titanic First Class Dining First Class Dining on the Titanic

It is well known that on board Titanic were some of the richest men and women in the world and therefore a first class ticket offered the ultimate in luxury and was unlike any experience aboard a ship to date. Dining was one area which the Titanic took very seriously, in fact, after Captain E. J. Smith, head chef, Charles Proctor, was the highest-paid crew member on board.

There would have also been notable differences in the linen between the classes; the table linen in first class would have been embezzled with the Oceanic Steam Navigation Company logo, whereas the linen in second class would have had the White Star Line logo embroidered in the centre. Similarly the crockery would have also differed between the classes with patterns Image: Replica of Titanic table setting relating to the White Star Line only used in second and third class dining rooms.

First class passengers had the highest number of dining options, the largest of which was the dining saloon located on D deck; this was considered the smoothest Head Chef, area of the ship and so the perfect place for a first class meal. Stretching the entire width of the ship (114 feet), it could seat up to 500 people. There was also an a la Charles Proctor carte restaurant located on board as well as a French- Second highest paid crew member on board inspired café, the Cafe Parisien.

18 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Image: Titanic First Class Dining Image: Titanic First Class Bedroom

Image: First Class Menu

19 Chapter Six – Linen in Recession

During the First World War, the Irish linen industry entered recession. Many factories in the country struggled and as a result laid off thousands of men who had no other option but to join the war.

Between 1914 and 1918 over 200,000 Irish men served in the First World War, during this time the production of linen went into decline. Whilst many industries flourished during the war, for example, Harland and Wolfe (builders of the RMS Titanic) recruited an additional 20,000 workers to help produce military vessels, the linen industry did not thrive as expected.

The recession was due in part to the halting of flax supplies from Belgium and Russia, but also because people just didn’t buy ‘quality goods’ during war times. As a result many factories closed or laid off workers who went on to join the war effort. Around 35,000 Irish men perished in the war and sadly did not return home.

However, by the end of the war the linen industry started to return as normal, due largely to the increase in demand for aeroplane cloth which proved popular as the war went on. Linen went on to become a more prominent aspect of military planes during the Second World War.

20 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Business as Usual 1.

With the industry thriving once again, by 1919, William Liddell & Co employed more than 1,000 people in its linen mills, including 150 people from the local village. William Liddell continued to commission the build of new neighbourhoods built entirely around the linen mill, most of which still stand today in the village of Donaghcloney.

In 1921, the Irish linen industry boasted almost one million spindles, 37,000 looms, with over 70,000 employees representing around 40% of the registered working population. Over 100,000 people and families were dependent on the linen trade. However, not all was plain sailing and by the end of the 20th century only 10 linen mills would remain in Ireland, employing just 4,000 people.

For the time being, William Liddell & Co continued to prosper, surviving The Great Depression and growing substantially during the Second World War.

2.

Images: 1. Liddell gold medal linen set (est.1930’s) 2. Liddell gold medal linen box (est.1930’s)

21 Employee Profile

Employees and the War

During the First World War, many of William Liddell & Co’s able bodied men left the company to join the fight. One such man was Willis Rogers, who in 1914 took a leave of absence from his job as an apprentice in the Donaghcloney factory to join the war effort. Rogers returned to the company after service in 1919 where he continued to work for many more decades, before his death in 1941.

Whilst joining the war as a signalling officer, he left as Lieutenant and was awarded the Military Cross at just 21 years of age for distinguished bravery and devotion to duty at the Battle of Ypres. Rogers survived being blown up and risked heavy fire to tend to his fellow men. When the war was over, Rogers’ career followed a similar path of success. Shortly after the war ended, Willis and his brothers emigrated to the US, where he was promoted to Secretary to the Company in William Liddell’s New York premises. It is estimated that as many as 4.5 million Irish men and women arrived in America between 1820 and 1930 to live ‘the American Dream.’ And Willis certainly did that up until his death in a car accident in 1957.

Image: War memorial report

Image: Willis Rogers front centre with cane

22 Chapter Seven – War Benefits Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Linen production in the Second World War flourished due to high demand and government price controls. Not only did the demand for linen increase, but the factory was also used to produce additional ammunition for the war.

During the war the use of linen in military aircrafts increased as unbleached Irish linen were used to cover the control services (rudders and ailerons) of many military planes. Linen was used not just because of its lightness in weight but also because it could be stretched around the intricate shapes of the control surface.

23 William Liddell’s Munition Workers 1943

During the Second World War William Liddell & Co hired The workers were paid bonuses to work as fast as they munition workers to help with the war effort; throughout could to ensure the ammunition was produced quickly this period the factory was not only producing more and for battle. They worked an average of 47 hours per week more linen, but also everything from bombs and bullets to and were paid an average of £5 per week, with a bonus of parachute harnesses and gun covers. around one or two pounds depending on how quick they could work and how much they produced. Most factories in Britain were put on war department contracts, which saw them focus on producing as much In today’s money this works out at around £210 per week ammunition as possible for the war. But linen was also with a bonus ranging between £40 to £120 per week. rising in demand and manufacturing changed to focus on making items such as aircraft wing fabric and uniforms. Irish linen continued to be so widely used in aviation that when Winston Churchill flew to the Yalta Conference in In fact, linen was so widespread that during the war it Moscow, 1943, the walls of his aircraft were adorned in was claimed that it was used in every operational aircraft luxury Irish linen. made for the RAF, including famous war planes such as Hurricanes, Spitfires, Lancaster Bombers In 1944 there were 105,000 acres of flax being produced and Wellingtons. with 60,000 workers in the Irish industry.

Image: Munition Workers wages (1947)

24 Chapter Eight - A Weaver’s Tale Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Weavers were very skilled workers who were paid well for what they did. By the late 1940s, mechanical advancements in shuttle looms meant that weaving was now much easier and faster than before. Image: Shuttle loom

A loom is an apparatus that is used for making fabric by weaving cloth, the loom works by warping threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of weft threads. Over time we have had much advancement in loom mechanics, but the general purpose has always been the same. 1940:

Loom workers had the security of fixed hours and generally were held in high esteem in the factory, their job was to keep the loom running to capacity and be quick to identify and solve any problems quickly and efficiently. With fixed hours and good wages the job was highly desired, but often were the first to be laid off in times of struggle or famine. However, working as a weaver wasn’t without health problems. Women were obligated to tie their hair back with scarves and often inhaled the dust causing lung problems. The factories were noisy and so weavers developed their own language called ‘mee-mawing’ which was a form of speech exaggerated with movements to allow lip reading accompanied by mime.

Did you know:

Towards the end of the 1940s, records show that William Liddell’s weavers were paid an average of £2 per week, which equated to around £104 per year. In today’s money this would be around £84 per week, with an annual salary of £4,300.

25 Image: Weavers’ Ledger (1947)

26 Chapter Nine– Luxury Sells Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

After the war, the Irish linen industry started to decline rapidly as the demand for cotton and easy-care fibres saw consumers turn away from the more formal fabric. 1.

However, William Liddell & Co with a strategy of targeting the top level luxury hospitality customers bucked the trend and continued to grow throughout this period of uncertainty. The 1950s therefore saw Liddell take on high profile customers such as:

RMS Arcadia – P&O’s largest liner at the time servicing the route between the UK and Australia

SS Orsova – Orient Line; the fastest liner at the time, built by the Oceanic Steam Navigation Company in 1948

BOAC Comet 4 – the world’s first commercial jetliner built in the UK

Spirit of Progress – the premier express passenger train on the Victorian Railways in Australia, running from Melbourne to the New South Wales

The Dorchester Hotel – notorious with the rich and famous, the five star luxury hotel was established in 1931

2.

Images: 1. William Liddell & Co ad (est.1950’s) 2.RMS Arcadia

27 1950:

During the 1950s demand for lesser quality, bulk fabrics continued to rise, with hospitals and hotels preferring to purchase cheaper, easier to care for synthetic fibres. However, quality were still in demand for the luxury hotels, restaurants and airlines which preferred to offer traditional Irish linen to their guests, and also get a one up on competitors who offered cheaper fabrics.

In 1961 William Ewart & Sons received a visit from the Queen during her tour of Northern Ireland. During her visit the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh completed tours of one of the oldest industries (linen) at the William Ewart & Sons factory, and one of the newest, the factory of International Computers and Tabulators Ltd.

For nearly 100 years, William Ewart & Sons had been a direct rival of William Liddell & Co, but the two companies go on to merge just 11 years after the Queen’s visit.

Elsewhere, production of linen in Ireland was still on the decline and between 1961 and 1962 two of Northern Ireland’s largest linen mills closed. Despite many government initiatives attempting to revive the linen industry, the trade never fully recovered. By 1964, one third of Northern Ireland’s mills had closed, however both William Liddell & Co and William Ewart & Sons were still prospering and adapting to huge changes and demands in the linen market.

28 Chapter 10 – Big Changes Ahead Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

During the 1960s and 70s, huge changes were happening not just in the linen industry, but in factory production all over Britain. Many mills struggled to keep up with rising costs and cheap overseas labour and were forced to close their doors for the last time…

Producing linen is expensive; the cost derives not only from the difficulty of working with the fibre, but also because the flax plant Emergence itself requires a lot of attention. Therefore, manufacturers have always been looking for ways to produce the thread for cheaper, as a result of during the 1960s an industry shift saw many linen mills move abroad to cut production costs. Not only did linen mills struggle because of the move of production to cheaper countries, The trend of moving the processing of the linen abroad carried on but the introduction of Polyester and the right up until the end of the 20th century. Not only was Ireland failing growing preference for cotton saw a shift in to compete with the foreign industry, but the growing popularity of the way linen was being used. cotton and easy-care fibres meant that linen was beginning to fall out of favour. In the 1960s, polyester became the fabric of choice in an economy that wanted everything As factories were losing money it was even more important that produced quickly, cheaply and easily. It was they figured out how to cut costs. Mill closures were happening all hailed as a ‘magic fibre’ by 1960’s marketers around Britain, most noticeably in and Northern Ireland. who said it ‘needed no ironing, never Textile mills moved to lower-wage, industrial countries such as India, wrinkled and washed well.’ They also claimed Bangladesh, China and Latin America, where labour was much it ‘could be worn for 68 days in a row and still cheaper in comparison to Western Europe. This was a huge hit for the look good.’ UK market which saw almost one mill a week close throughout the 60s and 70s.

Throughout the 80s and 90s major retailers followed suit and those that weren’t utilising foreign labour began to struggle.

29 Fashion Inspires Linen

During the 1960s and 70s, William Liddell & Co started producing linen in a variety of bold colours and patterns to keep up with changing trends. Taking inspiration from the world of fashion and the swinging 60s, linen became brighter and more daring to cater for the boom in colourful, psychedelic clothing. In the beginning of the 1960s, fashion was very conservative, but as the decade wore on young people began to look for ways to be different and express themselves.

Whereas fashion houses used to cater for more mature and elite members of society, the 1960s and 70s saw them start to focus on young people as the growing power of the market became too big to ignore.

Linen also began to follow the changes in the market, and William Liddell & Co for the first time incorporated the styles and colours from the fashion world into their linen.

30 Employee Profile Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Jack Whan – Head Designer at William Liddell 1965 –1977

In 1965, William Liddell & Co hired Jack Whan as their Head Designer. The design department at this time, based in Crumlin Road Factory, was made up of 14 people. At his permanent disposal Jack had a batch of six looms, a weaver and winder; he was responsible for the designs later seen on British Airways Concorde and was the main contact for Marks and Spencer’s. Jack was also tasked with designing cloth for the German Chancellor; the final product was 20 yards long and had the Bonn and Belfast coats of arms woven at alternate place settings.

Jack also worked on many creations of his own, which always had international markets in mind. Working closely with Liddell’s research team, Jack was directly involved in testing new fabrics and organising full production runs. Not just a designer, Jack also nurtured relationships with some of Liddell’s biggest customers, and always designed cloth to suit customers’ desires. He later moved on from Liddell and would go on to design fabrics for leading fashion houses such as Ralph Lauren, Versace, Paul Costelloe and John Rocha. He retired from the fashion world in 1995.

31 Chapter 11 - William Meets William

As factories continued to close and fold, two once rivals decided to join forces to keep linen production in the company.

William Liddell merged with William Ewart & Sons, ending one of the largest rivalries in linen trade history.

Linen continued to struggle and two once rivals decided that the best course of action to save the production of linen in Ireland was to join forces. As a result, the merger of William Liddell & Co and William Ewart & Sons ended more than a century of trade rivalry. Once each other’s biggest competitor, now they would work together to continue the processing and production of linen in Ireland.

The two companies were then acquired as part of the larger Coats Group, which was one of Europe’s largest textile groups, employing more than 70,000 people and manufacturing in 35 countries.

This amalgamation and the network of overseas opportunities saw the now named ‘Ewart Liddell’ digress into cotton and polycotton products. The newly merged company was still based in Donaghcloney, .

32 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

1980s: Ewart Liddell underwent a major modernisation and re-equipment programme.

In an attempt to keep itself above a dwindling industry, Ewart Liddell invested heavily in technology in the 1980s. The aim was to use new and developing computer technology to improve its entire production process, undergoing a major modernisation and re- equipment programme to give itself a one up on its overseas competitors.

The installation of a new computer aided design suite meant a substantial reduction in the time taken to create logos, crests and custom designs. The company also introduced new, high speed Rapier Jacquard looms which further reduced turn around time.

Did you know:

One of the oldest ancient colonies famous for using flax and linen were the Egyptians who used the fabric for clothing and furnishing; it was mainly favoured due to its cooling qualities which allowed them to cope much more easily in the extreme heat. It was also used for mummification and burial shrouds; Egyptian mummies were wrapped in coarse linen as a symbol of light and purity and as a display of wealth. 33 Chapter 12 - Flying High

Throughout the 80s and 90s, Ewart Liddell took on some of its most high profile customers to date; showing it wasn’t all doom and gloom in Ireland’s textiles industry.

1980s:

In the 1980s, Ewart Liddell Linen could be found in luxury department stores such as Harrods, House of Fraser, Marks & Spencer and Bloomingdale’s in the US.

Typically a supplier to hospitality and transport, this decade saw Ewart Liddell take its linen and cotton products to the retail market. True Irish cloth still carried weight in the market, then even more so since the closure of numerous factories to linen production abroad. The fabric was high quality and superior to the cloth being imported from overseas and so there was no shortage of retail outlets throughout the world wanting to sell real Irish linen.

Image: Harrods department store, London

34 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Flying High

1980s – Ewart Liddell supplied 14 of the world’s leading airlines, including Emirates, Air New Zealand and Qantas. Hospitality clients include Raffles Hotel, Singapore, The Mandarin Hotel, Hong Kong and the world famous Ritz Hotel, London. It employed 250 people from the local village.

In the 1980s/1990s, Ewart Liddell supplied British Airways Concorde with linen napkins and cushion covers. Entering service in 1976, Concorde flew for 27 years before being retired in 2003. At its maximum speed the plane could fly faster than twice the speed of sound.

Late 1990s – Ewart Liddell supplied the Savoy Hotel, London with the finest Irish table linen.

1999 – Continuing its pursuit in luxury hospitality, Ewart Liddell adorned the Burj Al Arab, opening the door to a new world of opulence and luxury in the Middle East.

Burj Al Arab Famous Hotel

Known as the world’s most luxurious hotel, Dubai’s seven star Burj Al Arab offers the ultimate in extravagance. Outside the hotel lines a fleet of Rolls Royces all waiting to take guests to their required destinations in the city. The Burj’s suite-only accommodation offers discreet, in-room check in, a private reception on every floor and a host of personal butlers for the super rich. Nothing is spared in the building of this hotel, as the original architects make use of over 8,000 square foot of gold leaf and more than 30 different types of marble. Upon its opening in 1999, the Burj Al Arab offered its guests an indulgent night’s sleep in Ewart Liddell’s finest linen sheets.

35 Chapter 13 – Unlucky for Some

Come the new Millennium, whilst Ewart Liddell should be celebrating the turn of another century, the company was still struggling momentously to keep up with competitor pricing and suffered serious investment neglect from its parent company.

Still owned by Coats Viyella, Liddell entered a difficult stage. In the early 2000s, Coats went through a massive restructuring process and decided to sell off many of its ‘concerning’ textiles subsidiaries. Ewart Liddell, with its specialist luxury product and small target audience was seen as a growing concern. The company had been neglected for so long that to update the brand and bring it into the 21st century would have required considerable investment that Coats Viyella wasn;t prepared to make. As a result, Coats put Liddell up for sale.

Ewart Liddell was quickly snapped up by Baird McNutt, a 100 year old Irish fashion linen supplier which saw potential in the brand and a new direction for its own textiles portfolio. As a supplier to the retail market, James Baird (MD) saw an opportunity to target home furnishings and take his company into a new market. Baird McNutt drops the Ewart name and renames the company Liddell Limited, a brand which still carried significant weight in the luxury hospitality market.

36 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Baird soon realised that Ewart Liddell was seriously neglected from its former owners, with old fashioned machinery and jacquard sheds; by now, the world had changed and the company needed serious investment if it was to stand a chance of growth.

Baird McNutt sold Liddell’s famous Donaghcloney factory and land which allowed the company to make significant investments. However, the new parent company struggled to focus on both its own proposition and improving Liddell’s outlook, realising that it was perhaps in a little over its head taking on such a specialist brand in an unknown and unfamiliar market.

In an effort to turn his focus back to fashion and retail, Baird put Liddell up for sale once more. The move highlighted the importance of investment into businesses to facilitate growth.

During this time, current owner Donald Liddell, retired, becoming the last in the line of Liddell family members to take the company reigns.

Image: Liddell’s Donaghcloney factory

37 Chapter 14 – A Tale of Two cities

In 2004, the ailing company was acquired by Hilden Manufacturing Ltd, a similarly heritage rich textiles business based in Oswaldtwistle, Lancashire. The new acquisition brought together two famous cloth producing Image: Clifton Mill, Lancashire counties.

Liddell was still a very attractive business; despite the Very much part of the cotton boom which saw Lancashire hardship and neglect the company had many high profile and Britain become the world’s largest exporters of the customers that continued to support it during periods of fabric, weaving in the county suffered a similar fate to uncertainty. The brand was significant within the luxury Belfast when 74 mills closed within just four years due to market and continued to produce high quality products production rivalry from abroad. for an esteemed market sector. Despite the lack of investment into the company over the years, the quality of Liddell’s products never fell. In 2004, Hilden was one of very few companies still

weaving and dying in the Lancashire county. The Now it was the task of Hilden to bring the brand company had three large mills in Accrington, Lancashire back to life… – just a stones throw away from where it all began in

Oswaldtwistle more than a hundred years before. Although established in 1874, the Hilden brand can be traced back to the 18th century, when James Hargreaves, However, whilst the company board still boasted the a local textiles merchant, invent the . The rich Hargreaves name, behind the scenes Hilden was Spinning Jenny was a pioneering multi- spinning also struggling with overseas competition. In 2005, the frame which revolutionised the weaving industry at the business made the intuitive decision to start importing time. It was his descendants, who having grown up with cloth from the Far East, whilst turning the focus on its UK Hargreaves’ passion and enthusiasm for textiles, went mills to finer finishing and detailing. on to set up Hilden Manufacturing Ltd. The company grew throughout the years, with much investment going The project took five years to complete… into refining its technical expertise and expanding its but not all goes to plan. performance range of textiles for the commercial laundry and hospitality market.

38 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Elsewhere in the North-West of England, a revolution in textiles was beginning…

In 2005, Vision Support Services Group Ltd was established by entrepreneur, Dan Wright. The holding company was created with the aim of bringing together historical textile brands under one powerful, global umbrella. To achieve his dream of Vision, Dan quit a high flying career with a US private equity company to return to the North-West where he began his pursuit in textiles. With extensive experience as a business owner and manager, Dan had hands on experience in restructuring, company turn arounds and building successful businesses.

As Vision founder and Chairman, Dan completed 10 acquisitions of UK textiles and furnishing businesses and integrated them all successfully into the Vision business.

Image: Dan Wright

39 Chapter 15 – Administration Looms

In 2007, Hilden was still embarking on its project of moving textiles production abroad, however faced with huge overheads and trading difficulties, the project failed…

On 9th July, 2008, Hilden filed for administration. Its five year relocation project had taken considerably longer than expected and incurred significantly greater costs, resulting in cumulative losses for the business.

It’s a sad time for the 130 year old company, which had been left badly affected by the decline of the British cotton industry. Although it battled on to keep production on the same soil they had used since 1874, its decision to move abroad was too little too late.

Liddell, which remained slightly profitable at the time of administration could not continue operating without its parent company and filed for administration just one day later on 10th July 2008. The company which once employed 650 employees in its mills, now remained with only 80 staff members; it showed the true devastation of the British textiles industry. Today, very few companies produce textiles goods on UK soil.

Hilden and Liddell needed a new lease of life, and through the hardship, many of the companies’ customers, employees and suppliers stuck by them and offered their support. In the industry, the names Liddell and Hilden still held weight and as such, they weren’t short of prospective buyers…

40 Chapter 16 – A New Vision Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

In September 2008, Hilden and Liddell were acquired by Vision Support Services as part of one of the largest Image: Darwen House, Lancashire textile acquisition The Vision Group in 2008:

C&C (Cohen & Chapman): acquired by family group in 1932 and rolled trails to date. into Vision in 2005. Now the company’s expert Retail Division, it remains the bedrock of the Vision group’s retail know-how. The company has been a cornerstone supplier to John Lewis Partnership for over 50 years. Dan Wright, using his passion and experience from his background working for textiles firm, Whitaker Services founded in the 19th century, supplies specialist L Whitaker & Sons, (now known as Whitaker textiles for use in demanding environments such as military and Services) acquired the businesses to form a healthcare. It has held strong relationships with preeminent institutions core part of his new global textiles enterprise. such as British Ministry of Defence, Ministry of Justice and the NHS; its relationship with Britain’s defence forces dates back to the 1850s and After three solid years of trading, Vision the Crimean War. Acquired by family group in 1980s, Whitakers was Support Services now had a concrete global resurrected on its traditional ‘specialist product’ and institutional market network of overseas offices and manufacturing strengths. The company was rolled into the Vision group in 2005. sources. The company had already acquired Whitaker Services, a prosperous Lancashire based specialist textiles firm with high profile healthcare clients, and C&C Bed & Bath, a leading supplier of home textiles to large Vision Facts: UK retailers.

• No.22 in the Sunday Times Fast Track 200 Fastest Vision was able to give Hilden and Liddell Growing Exporters 2014 & No.46 in the Sunday Times the investment and nurturing they needed to International Track 200 2016 facilitate growth and bring the brands back to their former glory. • Seven global offices

• 20 million items of bed linen, filled goods, towelling and table As part of a new Vision, Hilden and Liddell linen sold per annum in addition to various associated items both relocated to and kept Liddell’s Irish office in to service the Irish and • 3,500 tonnes of textiles moved around the globe each year global accommodation markets. Today, Vision’s • Technical sourcing teams on the ground in Ireland, India, head office is located just 10 miles away from China, Dubai and Pakistan Hilden’s inception in Oswaldtwistle, Lancashire. • 6,000 customers across 84 different countries With hard work and determination led by Dan • Over 15 distribution partners worldwide including in Singapore, and his sound leadership team, the companies Vietnam, Turkey, Portugal, Hong Kong and the US were soon operating at the forefront of the hospitality sector. • 50 audited and approved manufacturing partners, worldwide

41 Employee Profile

Jimmy McCullough – Liddell’s Sales Director from 1999 to 2014

Jimmy McCullough joined Ewart Liddell in 1999 as Sales Director, where he worked for the company for 15 years up until his retirement in 2014. Jimmy was witness to many changes in Liddell, and was also a key player in keeping the company in high esteem with its high profile customers during the turbulent and uncertain years.

With a background in textiles, Jimmy was attracted to Liddell’s heritage and rich customer base. He worked with the company through many major changes and difficult challenges, including having three different owners and a short period of administration. To keep the company competitive, Jimmy was directly involved with transforming the manufacturing company into a sourcing and selling organisation when it was acquired by Vision. This was a necessary response to pressures in the declining UK market and ensured the company would go on to prosper and grow.

Jimmy says that the best part about his career with Vision was getting to work with such prestigious customers, including the Ritz, the Dorchester, Image: Jimmy McCullough the Mandarin Oriental and many more.

Image: Jimmy et al at The Dorchester event

42 Chapter 17: The Tables Turn Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

By 2010, Liddell was growing from strength to strength with the power of Vision and the company even made an acquisition of its very own…

To strengthen its product set and proposition, The Dorchester Collection Liddell acquired Lissadell Ireland, a business synonymous with supplying luxury towels to In 2013, Liddell unveiled its latest collections at the Dorchester Hotel retail and hospitality establishments. The new in London, in tribute to a 60 year relationship with the luxury hotel. products complemented Vision and Liddell’s The three day event was a significant turning point on Liddell’s road existing product set, and the Vision Group to success and the perfect way to showcase the brand’s growth and now offered a complete range of luxury and evolution in the market. New collections in bed, bath, spa and table linen mid-range hospitality linen, combining the best were unveiled, which drew admiration from prestigious visitors from the from all its brands. world of hospitality.

The Liddell brand continued to grow This event catapulted Liddell’s esteem and products in the market, substantially, carving out its name once again cementing the company as one of the world’s oldest and leading luxury in the luxury hospitality market. With premium hospitality linen suppliers. and quality at the heart of the company, the products once again quickly gained admiration and acclaim from world renowned hospitality venues. Although it had been a rocky few years, Liddell never forgot its commitment to sourcing quality and luxury cloth for use in the most exclusive settings.

43 Chapter 18: Expansion & Growth

2015 was the year of huge growth and expansion into global markets, with the unifying of one, ultimate, leading global textiles brand.

In 2015, the Liddell brand came under the remit of International Sales Director, Marc Wynne, whose aim was to expand the company further into global markets. Liddell had always been a global business, but this time the aim was to be bigger and better than ever before. Already dominating the UK scene, Marc wanted Liddell linen to become known around the world once again… Just as William Liddell did 100 years earlier.

With a team that can speak 20 different languages, a new website, marketing development and utilising Vision’s network of overseas partners and distributors, Liddell stood on the world stage.

Marc Wynne

Having worked as a sales executive for Lissadell before being acquired by Liddell in 2010, Marc used his 20 year textiles experience to establish Liddell’s global team and proposition. Marc now owns the sales performance for the international teams in Ireland, Pakistan, the UAE, India and China; he also works with Liddell’s overseas distributors to help its luxury products reach much wider audiences – including Australia, Vietnam, Russia, Malta, Mauritius and more.

The Middle East

In September 2015, Liddell exhibited at the Hotel Show, Dubai. A travel scene synonymous with luxury, the Dubai Hotel Show was the perfect setting for Liddell to show off its 2015 collections. With many famous Dubai hotel groups already offering Liddell linen to guests, the event further cemented Liddell’s luxury product range in the Middle East.

44 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

2015

Back to Retail

Working with Vision’s global retail division, Liddell’s luxury retail offering turned began to target key retailers around the world including:

• Lane Crawford, Hong Kong • Takashimaya, Singapore • Jashanmal, Dubai • John Lewis, UK

By the end of 2015, Liddell boasted such customers as:

• The Atlantis Palm, Dubai • The Dorchester • Intercontinental Hotel Group • Fairmont Hotels & Resorts • Shangri La Hotels & Resorts • Hilton Worldwide • Bulgari Hotels & Resorts • One & Only Resorts

Vision expands in August, 2015

In the summer of 2015, Vision moved into a brand new state of the art, 60,000 square foot warehousing facility in Blackburn, Lancashire. The new warehouse is located on the same business park as its head office and offers additional space and more than three stories for the company to accommodate its incredible growth.

45 2016:

Liddell announced its partnership with US textiles distributor, Riegel Linen, a 175 year old American textiles giant to deliver Liddell products to the North American market. Liddell was now back on US soil once again and had more than completed its mission to become the linen supplier to the world’s luxury hospitality market.

Today, Liddell powered by Vision, now trades in five continents with over 6,500 customers in 84 different countries.

46 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

Employee Profile

Ann Buchanan – Sales Account Manager 1995 to present.

As part of Marc’s international sales team, Ann mainly works with Liddell’s esteemed hospitality clients based in London. Ann has been part of the company since 1995, where she completed a week’s work experience in Liddell’s Irish mill. During her work experience, Ann spent time in each of the company’s departments – from sales, to purchasing and human resources to production.

Having impressed the business during her work experience, shortly after Ann was offered a two day a week work placement. She was eventually offered a full time position in the sales department, where she has grown and developed with the business ever since.

Today, Ann looks after the five star London hotel market and has had the opportunity to meet many of her customers. She says “During my time with Liddell I have loved getting to visit some of our prestigious customers such as; The Dorchester, Claridges and the Berkeley to name but a few, as well as help set up and meet and greet customers at hotel shows and exhibitions. It’s always great to be able to put a face to a name.”

She finished: “Over the last 20 years I have seen Liddell go through administration, liquidation and many changes of ownership; each time was a daunting experience but thankfully every time made us stronger as a business. Although there have been ups and downs I enjoy what I do and know there are many more successful years for Liddell to come!”.

47 Chapter 19: A Celebration Year

As Liddell celebrates its 150th anniversary, the company revisits some pivotal moments of its vast history to impress its customers in 2016

Image: Invitation to 150th events

In 2016, Liddell celebrates 150 years of trading. Having fought huge changes in industrialisation and overseas manufacturing. The company has continued its focus on producing high quality, luxury goods for the luxury hospitality market. Through all the ups and downs, Liddell core proposition and promise to the customer has never changed.

Using the experience, knowledge and drive originally instilled by William Liddell in 1866, the company has built itself back to be the trusted global brand, with memorable products and quality service.

Recreating History:

Liddell has worked with renowned historian Tom McCluskie, to create a replica Titanic linen range in celebration of its 150th anniversary.

Transport:

To celebrate being one of the biggest textiles suppliers to the transport industry throughout the 20th century, Liddell teams up with the oldest railway company in Britain, as it is due to celebrate a day of luxury on the Belmond British Pulman.

2016 and beyond: One Global Brand

More changes are underway in 2016 as Vision unites all its heritage rich brands to become known as one, global Vision. With expansion at the top of the agenda for the year, Liddell will go through some more major changes to become the luxury product range of choice for five star brands.

48 Liddell – 150 Years in the Making

In summary...

Looking back throughout Liddell’s history, we can see exactly how important it is for businesses to stay abreast of market and technological changes. It shows the devastating consequences of not reacting quickly enough. Whilst some may say that surviving for 150 years may be down to luck, there is no denying that in Liddell’s case it was sheer determination and drive that kept the brand going all this time. In 1866, William Liddell’s aim was to make luxury linen for the world’s most prestigious hospitality brands, in 2016, our proposition is still the same.

How to stay in business for 150 years? Always make your customers feel special, never lower the standards of your product – and always have time for your people.

– To be continued... –

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