TRAVEL | namaqua

Way up high in the – along a stretch of wild country where the desert meets the ocean – you will find the Namaqua Coastal Route. Better bring your bike, because here you can ride for days. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACQUES MARAIS

he Namaqua region is a place of breath taking divergence and jaw-dropping contrasts. Set upon the tipping point between the coastal plains and arid inland escarpment, it constitutes a minimalist landscape strafed by a vigorous climate, and over the aeons, the onslaught of these extreme elements shaped a space rugged beyond belief. Terra firma bristles with a profusion of bulbs and succulents, while quiver trees and enormous granite outcrops spike against the blue yonder. During spring, and seemingly overnight, the dusty valleys of Namaqualand are transformed into a floral wonderland with the arrival of a full-on flower bloom, while autumn reigns supreme as the secret “Green Season”. Beyond the arid Northern Cape plains and outcrops – abundant with semiprecious stones, crystals and other geological treasures – the icy Atlantic Ocean awaits. This underwater paradise unfolds along a spectacular coastline, dotted with quirky villages such as , Koiingnaas and the fabled . Also known as “Eenkantland” or the “Land Left Out”, Namaqua brims with a myriad life forms, all superbly adapted to this harsh and minimalist habitat, and many wonders await visitors along the fascinating Namaqua Coastal Route. The best way to experience the striking landscapes, fresh air and star-studded night skies are from the saddle of a mountain bike. Here are a handful of from desert to ocean places you simply must visit… rugged riding | MTB | 121 TRAVEL | namaqua

cuisine is a given, and the mean that you have all that fresh and passes through a couple of Okiep surrounding hills are alive with air and open space to yourself. gates before eventually joining THE SPOT: This quirky little adventure. I was lucky enough THE RIDES: The endless plains the “pipe-track”. It’s certainly dorp dozes to the east of the to scout the area during a recent and koppies around Okiep are not for beginners, as you can N7, about 10km past Springbok, Open Africa recce, and joined made for off-piste mountain expect steep descents, sandy and is a great stopover on the forces with Ecobound to check biking, with dozens of gravel sections, loose gravel, errant long drive between out bike-packing and other MTB roads, 4x4 routes and footpaths rocks, plus a good few climbs. and Namibia. Problem is, most route options here. to lure the fat track tribe into This circular route totals about people know bugger-all about Over the next few days, the Sandveld surrounds. Some 23km with a choice of tar for this town and the outstanding we killed our legs as we rode of the options below may the last 5km back to the hotel. Okiep Country Hotel, because roughshod amidst the imposing require access permission, so Otherwise, go big along the they’re too busy flat-lining quiver trees and rugged rock double check your route with gravel-grinder back roads past along the highway. Fantastic outcrops of the Namaqua Malcolm at Okiep Country Gamoep, Anegas and Bloupoort, hospitality and proper country Coastal Route. Copper was Hotel. There’s a quickie trail surely some of the most scenic discovered here in the 1850s right from the front stoep if public roads in the Cape. And and within a year, Okiep became you want to do a short riding when I say “public”, I mean you the world’s largest copper mine. recce and only have a couple may bump into a handful of These days, Okiep’s treasures of hours play time. Crank due farm vehicles on a busy day. are found in nature, with the north out of town along the This scenic route to the east of flower season as the main draw Concordia tar road, continuing the N7 will ultimately deliver card. Personally, I prefer March for about 6km, then turn right you to the somnambulant to May, when the succulents on a sandy dual-track just at , where a “packet are green and bulb plants are the top of the climb. The gritty cappuccino” from Kuiervreugde in full flower. No busses, and track meanders amidst some may prove to be the cherry on considerably fewer tourists, rugged Northern Cape outcrops top. Or not.

“it’s certainly not for beginners, as you can expect steep descents, sandy sections, loose gravel, errant rocks, plus a few good climbs.”

Total ride distance Various, 23km – 70km Fitness/skills level Intermediate to advanced Duration 2hrs – 8hrs Start point Okiep Country Lodge okiep.co.za

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snaking onto the plains amidst scratchy renosterveld kopjes. The terrain is gnarly to say the least, with gritty erosion ruts, loose gravel and loads of wash- outs. As the route crosses private land, permission and indemnities come into play.

Total ride distance Various, 10km – 150km Fitness/skills level Easy to advanced Duration 1hr – 6hrs Start point Naries Namaqua Retreat naries.co.za

Naries THE RIDES: The good news is THE SPOT: One of my top that you have a veritable pick- Northern Cape discoveries n-mix of routes to choose from has to be Naries, a tiny in the Naries area. Everything resort tucked away along the goes, from challenging Springbok / Kleinzee road. This enduro-style downhills, to delightful little destination is winding tarmac passes, and situated around 27km along endless gravel-grinder roads. the R55, and is surrounded Cruise the tarmac westwards by renosterbos ridges up to Kleinzee on your road bike, on the inland escarpment. and you’ll blast onto Spektakel Naries is much more than just Pass within a couple of kays. another guest farm, mainly Here, you plummet off the targeting an outdoor crowd edge of the escarpment onto keen on combining a unique the coastal plains waiting fresh-air escape with a high below for a total return ride level of comfort. Excellent topping out at approximately accommodation in everything 150km. Otherwise, saddle from luxurious Nama Mountain up your MTB and crank onto Suite reed huts – set into rugged the combo of Naries hiking rock outcrops – to sublime self- trails and dirt roads, directly catering cottages and a Manor accessible from any of the House will blow you away. A accommodation options at the well-marked trail network is resort. As mentioned, there is perfect for trail running and a good map available, and the hiking, but also works on the colour-coded markings make bike if you have intermediate it easy enough to follow. All level skills. Characters, culture in all, you have in the region and adventure make the of 20-25km of footpaths and Northern Cape a special roads to explore. Skilled riders place, but the beauty of this (preferably with a long-travel area is that it is pretty much bike), can blast onto the gritty still undiscovered. Eskom maintenance track

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mouth – is too sandy for normal Namaqua mountain biking, so best you National Park bring a fat-bike if you want to THE SPOT: The Namaqua ride here. Some superb (and National Park is mostly known very remote) camp spots for its spectacular display of perfect for bike-packing will wildflowers in spring, but don’t allow you to camp along this give this stunning spot a cold tempestuous coastline, with shoulder during the rest of the only gulls and the occasional year. It’s not a secret that the mongoose for company. autumn “Green Season” kicks THE RIDES: The well-marked in from March through to May, Caracal 4x4 Eco Trail constitutes and best of all is that you’ll have a solid 180km, mostly navigable all the tranquillity and space by mountain bike. A good mostly to yourself. This nearly idea would be to focus on the 170 000ha national park brims section to the coastal town of first part of the route follows the coastal plains and then cruise with endless mountain biking Hondeklip Bay, around 84km park roads to , the gravel rollercoaster onwards opportunities, and it is safe from Skilpad Rest Camp. The before you turn right onto to Soebatsfontein (26km), and affordable, with legendary the well signposted Caracal where you can grab a cold hospitality and excellent food Eco Trail. If this sounds like a drink before cranking into the to boot. There are no formal Total ride distance long slog, opt for a return ride massive return climb. If you’re MTB trails, but visitors can crank Various, 52km – 180km with serious altitude attitude! brave enough to loop right into Fitness/skills level more than 200km of roads Intermediate Exit Skilpad Rest Camp and the northern part of the park, and tracks open to the public, Duration 3hrs – two days turn right towards the coast, you can add the breathtaking including the 180km Caracal Start point Skilpad immediately pinning your ears Wildeperdehoek Pass to your Eco Trail. Note that the Coastal Rest Camp back as the downhill kicks in. itinerary. This furthermore links Section – stretching between sanparks.org/parks/ It’s a wild ride as you plummet onto the Messelpad Pass, an namaqua/ Spoeg River and Groenrivier from the escarpment onto the adjoining dirt ascent adding an additional dollop of grunt. Haul out the wide tyres if you plan on pedalling the Groen/Spoeg coastal section. This extension of the Caracal Eco Trail is mostly gravel, but you’ll have to duke it out with serious corrugations and stretches of soft sand. A fat- bike would be a perfect choice along this sandy route, making for an excellent bike-packing opportunity in an area with a real wilderness feel.

Event organizers Ecobound are currently looking at organising a multi-day MTB challenge as well as a spiritual bike- packing journey along the Namaqua Coastal Route in conjunction with Open Africa. Both these options will include excellent mountain biking here along the Namaqua Coastal Route – check out ecobound.co.za and openafrica.org

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