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Great Escape GREAT LAKES Start Your American Road Trip in Detroit, Home of Motown, Then Sample Michigan Wine in Traverse City and Its Vine-Striped Countryside

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Great Escape GREAT LAKES Start Your American Road Trip in Detroit, Home of Motown, Then Sample Michigan Wine in Traverse City and Its Vine-Striped Countryside Great Escape GREAT LAKES Start your American road trip in Detroit, home of Motown, then sample Michigan wine in Traverse City and its vine-striped countryside. Take in lakes, dunes and a lighthouse in Ludington State Park, dig into farm-to-table food and craft beer in Madison, and end with sky-high views and big laughs in Chicago. WORDS SOPHIE MCGRATH @sophielmcgrath l PHOTOGRAPHS AUBRIE PICK @aubriepick GREAT ESCAPE GREAT A restored foghorn tower stands on the edge of Lake Michigan in Ludington State Park, one of the largest expanses of freshwater dunes in the world September 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 43 GREAT LAKES ON THE ROAD Plan your trip Eat Buy Cherries in Traverse Mittens in Michigan, City, America’s fondly nicknamed ‘Cherry Capital’ and ‘The Mitten State’, In Detroit Visit lakeside Scale dunes and Head to arty Soak up the HOW TO GET THERE small-town Michigan. You'll need to one of the world’s top ‘The High Five Madison Airlines including BA, Delta and Virgin add state and local sales taxes to prices, growers. Head to the State’ and even ‘The 1 (p48), the 2 vineyards and 3 kayak over lakes 4 5nightlife in one-time Motor City, innovative wineries in Ludington (p54), where local architecturally epic Atlantic fly direct from London into which vary from about 6 per cent to Cherry Republic store Mitten’ in honour Detroit and out of Chicago, and via 10.5 per cent. Petrol costs roughly on Front Street for of its distinctively find a rich musical in Traverse State Park produce and a taste Chicago (p56), connecting flights from cities such £1.70 per gallon (around 40p a litre); everything from shaped mainland. heritage, new venues City(p50), the (p52), one of Lake for invention fuel whose rooftop bars as Manchester and Edinburgh (from budget about £100 for the trip based on cherry pie to cherry and talent leading heart of Michigan’s Michigan’s most a blossoming food and comedy clubs £790; delta.com). Detroit and a full-size vehicle. Don’t forget to tip: coffee, ketchup and Chicago are a 4½-hour drive apart, 10–15 per cent for taxi drivers, 15–20 even cherry wine. Look out for the city’s comeback. top wine region. beautiful spots. and craft-beer scene. are the height of fun. so you can also fly return from either per cent for waiter service, $2–$5 for Pink flamingos in (Chicago from £560; united.com). cleaning staff and porters, and at least Madison. A ’70s $1 per drink. prank that saw HOW TO GET AROUND 1,000 plastic birds A car is essential for exploring beyond WHEN TO GO appear on Bascom Hill the big cities. All the usual hire firms The region is at its liveliest (and hottest) was so successful that have offices in Detroit and Chicago in July and August, but prime summer they reappear every (from £170 a week including weather lasts from May to September autumn and are insurance; budget.co.uk). Pick up and the shoulder seasons offer fewer now a beloved when you’re leaving town to avoid crowds, lower rates and fair days. Early tradition – and the costly, and often elusive, parking autumn also brings the harvest in city’s official bird. (from about £9 a day, more at hotels). farms, orchards and vineyards. Carry change for Illinois’ toll roads In winter, cities’ cultural offerings – Madison to Chicago is about $8 crank up a notch while prices – Read (£6). It’s possible to drive around Lake and temperatures – plummet, but Ernest Hemingway’s Michigan from Ludington to Madison, winter-sports fans will be in heaven. Nick Adams stories, set then loop back to Chicago, but the in northern Michigan, shorter, more fun option is to cruise WHO CAN HELP where he spent his first aboard the SS Badger (a 60-mile, This trip is easy to plan yourself, but 22 summers. He later four-hour journey). This car ferry – many operators offer customisable called it, ‘the best ESCAPE GREAT a National Historic Landmark dating itineraries. Travelpack’s 15-day Great place in the world to do from 1952 and America’s last Cities of the Great Lakes self-drive nothing. It is beautiful coal-fired steamship – heads west trip includes time exploring Chicago, country… and nobody from Ludington to Manitowoc in Detroit, Traverse City, northern knows about it but us’. Wisconsin, 2½ hours from Madison Michigan and coastal Wisconsin, plus (from £90 including car; ssbadger.com). Toronto, Niagara Falls and Cleveland, Ohio (from £2,399 per person Listen HOW LONG TO SPEND including international flights and To the sweet sounds of Plan to spend a couple of days in each car hire; travelpack.com). Motown, Detroit’s most place – ideally more in culture-packed infectious export – download Detroit and Chicago. This itinerary HOW TO PLAN the From Motown with Love takes in about 600 miles, so factor Pick up Lonely Planet’s Eastern USA compilation or check out in driving times and rest breaks. It’s guide or download the ‘Great Lakes’ Spotify’s ‘Motown’ playlist. possible to do in about 10 days, but chapter (£2.99; lonelyplanet.com) and best to allow at least two weeks. our free Guides app, which features Chicago. For more Great Lakes WHAT TO BUDGET road-trip inspiration, see the USA’S Brave Overall, prices in the Midwest – even Best Trips guide (£16.99). Find even TILT on the 94th-floor in Detroit and Chicago – are lower more ideas at observation deck of 360 than the US average. Travelling well choosechicago.com, Chicago, which pivots doesn’t have to break the bank, visitdetroit.com, visitors 30° over with plenty of free attractions and traversecity.com, Chicago. (£16.50 budget-friendly options like cafés, visitludington.com, with online discount; diners and b&bs around. Hotels in visitmadison.com 360chicago.com). Chicago are pricey – from £110 for and, finally, MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: AUBRIE PICK, RB/REDFERNS/GETTY, SUZIFOO/ET/GETTY RB/REDFERNS/GETTY, PICK, AUBRIE PHOTOGRAPHS: VERHILLE. ALEX ILLUSTRATION: MAP a room, compared to about £60 in greatlakesusa.co.uk. 44 Lonely Planet Traveller September 2017 September 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 45 GREAT LAKES The shot Photographer Aubrie Pick on capturing the Chicago riverside I took this photo aboard the Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise as it made its way up the Chicago River. I wanted to touch on the story of Chicago and the role the river has played in its history, from its layout to its culture, and I also loved the way the blue of the sky reflected in the glass of the skyscrapers, which then reflected in the water. I used a wide angle lens to capture the sense of scale and focused on the midground, with a wide depth of field, to ensure the picture was sharp throughout. The shot was tricky, because being low in the water with the buildings so high ran the risk of parallax, an effect where objects appear to veer together. To counteract this, I tried not to shoot up, instead keeping my camera level with the horizon. Shot on a Canon EOS 5D MARK IV // 24–70mm lens // ISO 400 // aperture f/10 // shutter speed 1/250 GREAT ESCAPE GREAT 46 Lonely Planet Traveller September 2017 September 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 47 GREAT LAKES The Fox Theatre, the largest surviving movie palace of the 1920s and now a music venue Third Man Records occupies a former factory in Midtown. LEFT Jordan Lyons outside the Motown Museum The rooftop of the Z Lot car park, whose 27 storeys each Dennis Coffey plays at the feature the work of a Northern Lights Lounge. different street artist. BELOW Sunset over RIGHT A boy plays Detroit as seen from Belle guitar at Third Man Isle in the Detroit River Records GREAT ESCAPE GREAT to 35¢ cigarette machines – outside its walls, like a 1940s recording booth, while a stage Essentials 1. Detroit a lot has changed. As the motor industry hosts local acts and touring bands. Behind Visit the home of Motown to discover a city with a rich musical heritage that’s made failed, the city began a notorious decline a wall of windows at the back, staff are busy that culminated in its bankruptcy in 2013. hand-pressing vinyl records. Much of the a strong comeback from a financial downturn to enjoy a new lease of life But in the past few years, Detroit has seen a focus here is on Detroit’s up-and-coming buzz of new life, with restaurants, bars and acts and musical legacy – reissues include T’S 11 ON A WEDNESDAY museum traces the story of its sound, one of and gave the world some of its most beloved hotels opening, an influx of entrepreneurs early Motown hits. morning and a roomful of the most uplifting and influential of the 20th songs and biggest stars – like the Jackson 5, and artists, a kaleidoscopic palette of street It’s a continuity that Dennis Coffey would strangers is singing at the top of century – and Detroit through and through. Stevie Wonder, Diana Ross and Marvin art, and even trams and bike-hire schemes. appreciate. A guitarist in the Funk Brothers their lungs. ‘My girl,’ they croon, The company was founded in 1959 by Gaye. And, in the era of the civil rights Though the music never died in Detroit – band, which played on most Motown songs, ‘Talking ’bout my girl...’ songwriter and entrepreneur Berry Gordy, movement, Motown transcended racial cradle of techno, hip-hop, Madonna and he now takes to the stage at the moodily lit IIt’s the final stop on their tour of the its name a riff on Detroit’s status as boundaries.
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