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Visitor Guide—2019/20 VISITOR GUIDE—2019/20 FEATURES 5 GET OUTSIDE Modern Whale Watching. Puget Sound Express helps us protect and enjoy marine wildlife. Index—The Gem of the Forest. Launch a whitewater adventure from a tiny historic mining town. 12 ART & HISTORY Releasing the Forms Within. Tulalip artist James Madison reflects on learning to listen to the wood. 6 16 FOOD & DRINK Dining in Urban Basecamp. Strip malls reveal hidden gems—some of the best dining in the region. VANCOUVER BC SEATTLE REGIONS 12 21 COASTAL COMMUNITIES 31 URBAN BASECAMP 39 SKYKOMISH—SNOHOMISH RIVER VALLEYS 45 STILLAGUAMISH—SAUK RIVER VALLEYS RESOURCES 52 HOTELS 58 B&BS & CABINS 61 PARKS & CAMPGROUNDS 62 GETTING HERE 64 AREA MAP 16 65 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTERS 66 FERRY SCHEDULES CONTRIBUTORS WELCOME, Richard Porter is an author, copy- Tucked between the Cascade Mountains and the writer, and freelancer based in Salish Sea, just a few miles north of Seattle, you’ll find Everett, Washington. He has written Seattle NorthCountry. Originally home to the Coast for regional publications like 1889, Salish Peoples, the region is steeped in history. From the Live in Everett blog, and Scenic the splash of salmon moving from river to sea, to the WA. Richard enjoys riding his bike silence at the center of an alpine lake to the hustle of and old architecture. He lives in the seaside cities, Seattle NorthCountry is full of stories. Snohomish River Delta with his wife and three daughters. We’re excited you’re here, but we do ask one thing—that you be a responsible guest and carefully consider your Krista Quinby is a freelance writer impact on this place. The Coast Salish people teach us and artist with an abiding love of the an important lesson—that anytime we make a decision, verdant PNW. Her family skis in the we should consider how it will impact future generations. winter, camps in the summer, and How will the choice I make right now affect the people explores throughout the months who live on this land hundreds of years from now? While between. Her humorous ram- you’re with us, we ask that you think in this way. blings about kids, cats, and growing up, can be found on her blog, In that spirit, you’ll find a series of notes throughout www.milkandwhiskey.com. this guide with tips on being a responsible guest. Please take the time to read and consider those. Thank you for visiting! Jake Campbell is a freelance photographer, videographer, and - The Seattle NorthCountry Team web designer based in the PNW. He LC photographs weddings, events, and WE OM E E creates digital content for business- R H A E es throughout the Seattle region. L R L Visitor Information Center E A Jake really loves pizza and vinyl at Boeing Future of Flight records. You can view his portfolio 425-438-8100 x246 at www.jakecampbellphoto.com. 8415 Paine Field Blvd. (I-5 Exit 189 West) Mukilteo, WA 98275 Sierra Rozario is an illustrator, graphic designer, and musician **More visitor centers on page 65** based in Everett, WA. She creates hand-drawn and digital artwork Snohomish County Tourism Bureau for a variety of clients and plat- 888-338-0976 / 425-348-5802 forms throughout the Seattle area, and is heavily influenced by vintage 6705 Puget Park Drive, Snohomish, WA 98296 www.SeattleNorthCountry.com cartoons, indie comics, and absurd- ist humor. In her free time, Sierra Made possible by assistance from the Snohomish County enjoys making zines, rollerskating, Hotel-Motel Tax Fund and playing music. Learn more at sierrarozario.cool. ©2019 Milltown Creative Co. Ad Sales: Visitors Guide Publications Cover illustration by Sierra Rozario. 4 2019/20 VISITOR GUIDE Get Outside SEATTLENORTHCOUNTRY.COM 5 Get Outside Modern Whale Watching MindfulnessMindfu Meets Science on NorthCountry Whale Watching Tours. by: RICHARD PORTER Edmonds, WA. Puget Sound Express is a family whale watching company sailing out of several PNW locations, The Boats including Edmonds. For 34 years and three generations, Puget Sound Express has two sleek hydrofoil boats the Hanke family has offered guided tours of the Salish powered by jet propul- Sea, giving their passengers an up-close view of wild sion. The Saratoga and the Chilkat Express (both cata- cetaceans: a bucket list experience. To see a gray whale marans) quietly cruise Puget rolling in a placid bay, exposing a fluke is to understand, Sound at relatively high speeds (approx. 40 knots), like sailors of yesteryear, the power of leviathans. taking passengers on half- day tours. The boats travel as far north as Victoria or the San Juan Islands and return ALL THE to the Edmonds Marina DETAILS within a three-hour time When to Visit window. Their daily route varies, depending on whale Tours run from migration patterns, but February to passengers can expect November. to see Whidbey, Gedney, and Camano Islands, the Tour Length Cascade and Olympic Tours leaving Mountains, as well as vari- Edmonds last ous inlets and waterways. about 2.5 hours. Where to Stay Whale Sightings The Best Western Plus Edmonds Guaranteed Harbor Inn Puget Sound Express has a is located “guaranteed whale watching” minutes from policy—meaning if you don’t the Edmonds see a whale on your jour- Ferry Terminal, ney (it’s rare not to see a and downtown whale), they’ll offer you free, Edmonds (where no-expiration-date tickets great food and to come back and cruise drink abounds). another time. 6 2019/20 VISITOR GUIDE Puget Sound Express’ boats travel relatively quickly—up to 40 knots. Don’t miss the famous homemade blueberry buckle, a family recipe. Protecting When You Go the same place at the mouth Marine Wildlife of the Snohomish River in Besides whales, you’re likely Puget Sound Express pains- Possession Sound. During the to witness some other variety of takingly meets and exceeds tour, the guides make note of abundant Salish Sea marine life: regulations on how much which whales are doing what seals, sea lions, or otters. But you space to give to whales. Their and where. may just see a resident orca toss posture is that of stewards of This compiled data helps sci- an octopus into the air. Or you may see a humpback calf breach- nature. They observe “go slow” entists to understand whale SUSTAINABLE zones and quietly idle or shut behavior. It also empowers NORTHCOUNTRY ing. Grab a pair of complimentary off their engines when a whale whale watching tourists to binoculars and go out on the deck. To help is in sight. appreciate just what they’re Expect to keep your eyes peeled protect our “We’re the eyes on the looking at. for surprises. That’s part of what aquatic friends, water,” says Sarah Hanke, Naturalists on board The makes whale-watching with Puget reduce your use third-generation whale watch- Saratoga and the Chilkat act Sound Express great: every trip of single-use er. The tour boats help to track as docents, interpreting what brings something unexpected. plastics and pod behavior, migration, and passengers are viewing. These always pack out feeding habits. A network of experts break down the dif- what you pack in. scientists and researchers ference between resident Puget Sound Express Trash ends up in use this information to study and transient orcas. They can 500 Admiral Way, Edmonds the sea where it whale populations. For exam- also tell you about the dining pugetsoundexpress.com can be swallowed ple, they’ve been observing habits of minke, humpback, (360) 385-5288 by marine life. a gray whale named “Patch” gray whale species and a vari- since 1991. Patch returns to ety of porpoises. SEATTLENORTHCOUNTRY.COM 7 Get Outside INDEX: THE GEM OF THE FOREST Deep in the Cascade Mountains, you’ll find a tiny mining town where you can escape the city and find some room to breathe. by: RICHARD PORTER 8 2019/20 VISITOR GUIDE SEATTLENORTHCOUNTRY.COM 9 cranes and high rises of Seattle, though only an hour away, feel far removed from the quiet forest of the Upper Skykomish River Valley. There are still groves of virgin old growth timber in the canyons that The first surround Index—a rarity in a region originally pop- ulated by loggers. thing you Today, the economy of Index is based around tourism. Visitors can stay at one of a half dozen BnBs like A Cabin on the Sky and walk, bike, or hike hear when to nearby photogenic locations like the Heybrook Lookout, Eagle Falls, or Bridal Veil Falls. They can you visit pitch a tent at Troublesome Creek or the San Juan Index is, Campgrounds and access the nearby Alpine Lakes. The Corsons Maybe nobody knows local recreation better startlingly, than The Corson family of Index. They guide visitors down scenic Skykomish River with their Outdoor nothing. Adventure Center touring company. The Corsons are active investors in the community of about 200 people, buying and lovingly refurbishing his- Or, more accurately, all you can hear is the soothing toric properties. The River House is the “command sound of white noise. center” of Outdoor Adventures. The 1902 cha- When you cross the old suspension bridge into let-style lodge was in disrepair when Bill Corson town and park your car next to an enormous rusty bought it in 2007. Now it’s a cozy place to warm saw blade—a nod to the town’s history of timber and up after a day spent on the Skykomish River rapids, mining extraction—and step out of your car, there’s with a small bistro, a selection of local cider and nothing to hear. No traffic.
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