The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know
The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know Home Page
10/17/2005 See the "Modification History" at the bottom of this page for the most recent changes that have been made.
For your convenience, you can now download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file: UsefulRopeKnots.zip (4,091K). To unzip this file, try downloading a free evaluation version of WinZip at WinZip's Download Page. Be sure to come back here periodically to check for any changes to these articles. Added on 10/17/2005 (10/17/2005)
Introduction
I'm not quite sure what it is, but there is something fascinating about knots. Thousands of knots have been invented over the millennia, there are multitudes of books and websites entirely devoted to knots and teaching how to tie knots and knot artwork and the mathematics of knots and the history of knots, there are computer programs for displaying knots and showing how to tie knots, there are knot tyers' magazines, newsletters, discussion groups, clubs, associations, guilds, and so on.
But with this overload of information on thousands of knots, how is the average person supposed to know which knot is the best and safest to use when he needs to tie something? After all, using the wrong knot, or using a poorly-tied knot, has led to many accidents, injuries, deaths, and destruction of property.
People who use ropes, fishing lines, yarn, etc., in their work or in their recreation (such as sailors, rock climbers, fishermen, weavers, farmers, search-and-rescue workers, and so on) are familiar with various knots that they use frequently. But for the average person who only uses knots occasionally, it is helpful to learn just a few knots which are easy to remember, easy to tie, etc., yet are strong and secure and safe for a wide variety of purposes. By learning a few good knots and practicing them now and then, you will be well prepared for those times when you need to tie secure knots in rope or string.
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Background Information
Every rope has a "breaking strength," which means that if we place a heavy enough strain on a rope then it will eventually break. The Safe Working Load of a rope is generally considered to be one-fifth of the rope's breaking strength, according to BoatSafe.com.
Knots almost always reduce the breaking strength of a rope, sometimes by 25%, 50%, or more. At my local hardware store, the highest-rated rope that I found has a Safe Working Load of 450 pounds, but most of the ropes I saw were rated at under 300 pounds. If a rope has a Safe Working Load of 300 pounds, then we might assume that it should easily be able to lift an injured 200-pound man to safety, right? But if we tie a knot in the rope to help lift the injured man, and if the strength of that knot is rated at 60%, then the Safe Working Load of our rope has suddenly been reduced to 180 pounds (60% of 300 pounds). The injured 200-pound man is now beyond the Safe Working Load of our rope because of the knot we tied.
Modern ropes used by rock climbers often have a breaking strength of several thousand pounds when they are new, but what about the rope that you bought at the hardware store or the grocery store (which has been sitting around in your garage forever)? What was its Safe Working Load when it was brand new? How old is that rope now, and how much wear and tear has it been through? How much of a load is your rope capable of holding now? And do you know (or do you remember) how to tie secure knots that won't slip and won't cause your rope to break under a strain or under a series of jerks? Because of these issues, the best type of knot is one which reduces the breaking strength of a rope as little as possible, is easy to remember how to tie properly, is easy to tie, is secure enough not to spill and come loose, is easy to untie even after being under a heavy load, and so on.
Knot Strength Ratings
Considering the number of people who are trusting their lives to the knots that they tie in ropes (rock climbers, cavers, search-and-rescue workers, etc.), it is surprisingly difficult to find solid research on the strengths of the main knots that are being used. Here is a table which lists the knot strengths that I have been able to find after digging around the Internet. The values listed in this table are referring to the remaining breaking strength of a rope after the particular knot has been tied (every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website):
Adjustable Grip 80% or
Hitch more
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Alpine Butterfly 75%
60% or Bowline 60% 70-75% 70-75% 67-75% 60% 67% more
Bowline on the 60% or 60% Bight more
Carrick Bend 55-60% 65%
Clove Hitch 75% 60-65% 60-65% 60-65% 75% 60-75%
Double Bowline (Double-Knotted 70-75% 70-75% Bowline)
Double Figure- 82% Eight Loop
Double 65-70% 65-70% 65-70% Fisherman's Knot
Figure-Eight Knot 50% 75-80% 70-75% 75-80% 48% 81%
Figure-Eight Loop 80% 80%
Over 5/8" dia. ring Fisherman's Bend 55-65% 70% 60-65% 60-65% 70% (Anchor Bend) Over 4" dia. post 80-90%
Inline Figure- 75% Eight Loop
Overhand Knot 45% 60-65% 60-65% 60-65% 45%
Overhand Loop 85%
Reef Knot 45% 43-47% 45% 43-57% 45% 45% (Square Knot)
Sheep Shank 45% 45%
Sheet Bend 48-58% 55%
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Timber Hitch 70% 70%
Over 5/8" dia. ring 60-70% Two Half Hitches 75% 60-65% 75% 60-75% Over 4" dia. post 65-75%
Water Knot 60-70% 60-70%
Source Source Source Source Source Source Source *
* Geoffrey Budworth is a co-founder of the International Guild of Knot Tyers and was responsible for updating and revising "the knot enthusiasts' bible," The Ashley Book of Knots (by Clifford Ashley). The values in the last column are from Budworth's book, The Complete Book of Knots.
I don't know how reliable the above figures are, but this table gives us an idea of how limited (and conflicting) the available data is. Since the sources of the data don't always tell us how the tests were conducted, and they don't always tell us what type of rope was used, and they don't always tell us how old or how worn the ropes were, and they don't always tell us how many times each test was done in order to get a good sampling, etc., we can't really tell how accurate or reliable this information is. The type of rope used, the age of the rope, the condition of the rope, and even such factors as the temperature and humidity in the air can affect these tests (which is why testing labs try to use a controlled environment in which the temperature and humidity can be precisely measured - see for example Rescue System Mechanics, Interim Report), not to mention the fact that if a knot was not tied properly, or was not "dressed" properly, or was not "set" properly (these terms will be explained in a moment), these factors can affect the tests as well. In fact, if the testers made a mark on the rope in order to measure how a knot changes as the strain on the rope increases, that mark on the rope can significantly decrease the breaking strength of the rope (see http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety_3.htm and search for "Magic Marker").
Other considerations are whether the tests were conducted by slowly increasing the strain on the knotted rope to see when the rope breaks, or whether the tests involved a series of hard jerks on the knotted rope, and so on. Because of these considerations, how are we to interpret the above data when one source says that a knot has a 48% strength rating and another source says that the same knot has an 81% strength rating? (See the Figure-Eight Knot above). It is valid to ask, "48% or 81% under what kind of conditions, with what kind of rope, using what kind of test?"
As we can see, a single number for the strength rating of a knot (such as 81%) cannot realistically tell us how our particular ropes will stand up under the particular weather conditions of the moment (hot and dry, rainy and wet, freezing cold), under the particular strain which we are placing on the ropes, with the
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In discussions at websites which are devoted to sailing, rock climbing, caving, search and rescue, and so on, it appears that there are several "loop knots" which are preferred by people whose lives depend on secure knots. The most-mentioned loop knots which the average person might find useful in a variety of situations tend to be the Alpine Butterfly, the Bowline, the Bowline on the Bight, the Figure-Eight Loop, and the Double Figure-Eight Loop. The general consensus among climbers, cavers, search-and-rescue workers, etc., seems to be that the Alpine Butterfly, the Figure-Eight Loop, and the Double Figure-Eight Loop are about equal in knot strength, and that they are about 10-15% stronger than the Bowline and the Bowline on the Bight (both of which are generally considered to have the same knot strength). In addition, the Double-Knotted Bowline tends to be equated with the knot strength of the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop. There are several other loop knots which are mentioned less frequently (and we will look at some of those knots), but I wasn't able to determine a general consensus for the knot strengths of those other loop knots.
There are various types of knots besides loop knots, and we will look at many of those knots in this series as well. If you learn some of the dozens of knots described in this series of articles, you will probably find that your brain goes into a cramp trying to decide which knot to use when you need to tie a rope or string to something. Therefore, in each category I have tried to boil the information down to just one or two of the best knots, which I personally consider to be "The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know" (hence the name of this website). I'll give the reasons for my choices, but you might find that you prefer different knots than the ones I have chosen.
Terminology
When a rope circles around and then crosses over itself, this is often referred to as a "loop":
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A "bight" is essentially an open loop:
After you tie a knot, it is important to "dress" the knot properly. This means making sure that all parts of the knot are in the right place and that the rope doesn't cross itself unnecessarily. Each time a rope is sharply bent over something (such as another part of the rope), it can stress and tear some rope fibers. This is why it is important to dress the knot properly, because otherwise you are weakening the rope without realizing it, and in some cases you might be trusting your life or property to a significantly weaker rope than you had expected. In the pictures below, the first one shows an improperly-dressed knot and the second one shows the same knot which is properly dressed:
Again, if a knot is not properly dressed then it can weaken the rope more than a properly-dressed knot can. Also, the knot should be "set" by being tightened before it is used. Otherwise the knot might "slip" or "spill" or "capsize" and become unstable or fall apart, which can potentially be disastrous.
Knowing the best knot to use and properly tying it and properly dressing it and properly setting it can
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References and Links
There are many people who can be considered experts in knots. In this series of articles I have mainly quoted from two recognized authorities on knots:
1. Clifford Ashley, whose book, The Ashley Book of Knots, contains 3,900 different knots and 7,000 illustrations, and has been called the definitive reference work on knots and "the knot enthusiasts' bible."
2. Geoffrey Budworth, who is one of the co-founders of the International Guild of Knot Tyers (see the link below) and who was responsible for updating and revising The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley.
Here are several websites which provide a lot of information on knots. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:
● The A-Z of Knots
● Animated Knots
● Fifty Basic Knots
● International Guild of Knot Tyers
● Knots on the Web
● Ropers Knots Page
● Six Exploding Knots
If you have any questions about knots, I would recommend that you visit the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. There are some very knowledgeable people on that forum who will probably be able to answer your questions.
Site Map
Here is a list of the articles in this series, and the dates when they were last updated. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:
● Home Page (this page) 10/17/2005
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● Knots Index 11/2/2005 Added on 10/17/2005
● Single-Loop Knots 03/27/2006
● Double-Loop Knots 10/17/2005
● Triple-Loop Knots 10/17/2005
● Hitches 10/17/2005
● Bends 10/17/2005
● Miscellaneous Knots 10/17/2005
● Decorative Knots 10/17/2005
Consider visiting my other websites! As a former home-schooling dad, I have been putting together some websites which contain fun and educational activities for kids of all ages:
● Christian Evangelism, Healing, and Teaching Resources
This is my online Christian ministry.
If you ever want someone to pray for you or your loved ones, please feel free to send your prayer requests to me at [email protected], and I will be praying for you. I look forward to hearing from you!
Also, if you ever have any questions about God, or Jesus, or the Bible, or a particular Christian doctrine, or certain Bible passages, etc., please feel free to send me your questions and I'll do my best to prayerfully answer them. Consider visiting my home page at Layhands.com and doing a simple Find (click the Edit menu in your browser, then click Find) in case there is already an article which addresses your question. You can also check my Topic Index, which has a list of all of my articles grouped by topic. To search my website for a specific Scripture passage, type the full name of the book and the chapter number (in double quotes, such as "1 Corinthians 14") into the Google search box at the top of my home page, then press Enter or click Search. You can also use the Google search box to search my website for all articles which contain specific key words or phrases. [Note: I have no control over the search results.]
May the Lord abundantly bless you and yours!
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● Cool Science Tricks Added on 12/28/2005 (12/28/2005)
This website started out as a fun family project during the Christmas holidays (2005).
We wanted to put together a list of quick/fun/fascinating things to try (science experiments or games or puzzles), and our choices are admittedly a bit arbitrary and random. The emphasis here is less on explaining the science involved, and more on simply describing some fun and interesting things to do, especially things that make us say "Wow, cool!"
We deliberately chose not to put these activities in any particular order. Instead, as you scroll through each page we hope that various interesting things will catch your eye for you to try!
● Easy Card Tricks for Kids of All Ages
Card tricks are fun for adults and kids alike, but it can be difficult to perform the sleight-of-hand which many card tricks require. The tricks described here require no sleight-of-hand at all, and this makes it easy for kids to learn and perform them.
Since they are "self-working" or "mathematical" card tricks, it can be a fun and educational exercise for kids to try to figure out why the tricks work! When I was a teenager, one of these card tricks totally stumped my friend and me because we couldn't figure out why it worked every time. After doing the trick over and over I finally had that Aha! experience when I "saw" what makes it work. This website will give you an idea of how to figure out what makes the tricks work so that kids of all ages can experience the thrill of that Aha! moment when they unlock the mysteries of the card tricks!
● Fun, Free Educational Computer Games for Kids
There are many wonderful computer games out on the Internet which help teach lots of important skills in fun ways, but it can be difficult trying to find the best free software.
My kids and I have had a great time downloading new software, eagerly anticipating playing the new games, and then weeding out the not-so-good ones from the "keepers." The games listed and reviewed here are some of the better ones that we have come across. My kids both began using the computer when they were two years old, and they both enjoy playing computer games with me (where I use
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● My Freeware Games, Puzzles, Screen Savers, and Utilities
This website contains a lot of free software that I have written just for fun over the years. You'll find some games and puzzles which (hopefully!) are fun and which stimulate hand-eye coordination or logical thought processes, some screen savers, and some utilities which I use fairly frequently.
This website also contains free Visual Basic 6.0 code for creating your own screen savers. You'll learn how to use VB graphics commands for drawing lines, circles, rectangles, and so on, and it includes the graphics routines for some of the free screen savers that can be downloaded here.
● Visual Baseball - A New Method for Scoring Baseball Games
If you enjoy watching baseball games, then using a scoresheet can add an extra dimension to the game. Scoresheets enable you to look back at what happened in previous innings and previous at-bats, they allow you to keep various statistics if you desire, and so on.
If you sometimes watch baseball games with friends or loved ones, but you don't really care much for baseball, then using a scoresheet can make the game more interesting and enjoyable. It gives you something to do to pass the time, and you might find that suddenly you're the "expert" when people start checking with you to see what happened earlier in the game!
Try videotaping a baseball game on TV and then showing your kids how to use a scoresheet to keep track of the game. This is a clean and fun family activity to do together!
Many people have created some nice scoresheets (for lots of examples, see BaseballScorecard.com), but they are mostly variations on a standard method of scoring baseball. Visual Baseball is a different concept than most other scoresheets, and it provides more visual information "at a glance" than most other scoresheets (which is why it's called Visual Baseball).
● Easy HTML Tutorial
file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Index.htm (10 of 11) [3/12/2010 9:38:24 AM] The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know There are many different programming languages for writing computer software, and one of those languages is called "HTML." HTML stands for "HyperText Markup Language," and it is used for creating Web pages (most of the websites on the Internet were written in HTML). It is a good first computer language for kids to learn because it doesn't cost anything, it is fairly simple to understand, and it allows kids to instantly see results when they make changes to their HTML code. It also can be used for creating complex Web pages (especially when combined with JavaScript or VBScript), so it allows for growth as you or your kids dig deeper into Web programming.
"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Home Page" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots
Modification History
10/17/2005: Added a new page called "Knots Index." Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file. 01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article, and updated all of the other articles. 05/27/2004: Added a link to the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. 05/04/2004: Added a new page called "Decorative Knots," added pictures of a "loop" and a "bight" in the Terminology section (the Terminology section was originally called "Dressing and Setting a Knot"), and added a link to some interesting "exploding" knots in the "References and Links" section. 12/10/2002: New article.
Dave Root Houston, TX, USA
Send e-mail to: [email protected]
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The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know Bends
(and other ways of tying ropes together)
For your convenience, you can now download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file: UsefulRopeKnots.zip (approx. 4 MB). To unzip this file, try downloading a free evaluation version of WinZip at WinZip's Download Page. Be sure to come back here periodically to check for any changes to these articles.
Site Map
If you have never visited this website before then I would recommend that you begin at the Home Page. It explains that the type of rope you use, the age of the rope, the wear and tear on the rope, the types of knots you tie, whether you tied the knots properly or not, whether you "dressed" the knots properly or not, whether you "set" the knots properly or not, and so on, all have an impact on the Safe Working Load of your rope and the security of the knots you tie. Whatever risks are associated with the rope or string that you use and the knots that you tie, remember that the risks are entirely your own.
Here is a list of the articles in this series. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:
● Home Page
● Knots Index
● Single-Loop Knots
● Double-Loop Knots
● Triple-Loop Knots
● Hitches
● Bends (this page) ● Miscellaneous Knots
● Decorative Knots
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Bends (and other ways of tying ropes together)
When two ends of rope are tied together (whether they are from the same rope or from two different ropes) with a single knot, the knot is referred to as a "bend."
If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need to tie two ends of rope together securely. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong bends which you can remember easily. My preferences are the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load) or the Alpine Butterfly Bend, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article.
Be sure to practice tying your favorite knots periodically (from different angles) so that you'll know how to tie them when you need them.
1. Adjustable Grip Hitches (Interlocked) This is simply made up of two Adjustable Grip Hitches tied to each other, similar to the Bowline Bend.
According to Budworth, "This practical slide-and-grip knot can be grasped and shifted easily by hand in either direction but locks up firmly under load. After the load is removed, the knot may be slid along the rope again. The momentum of a fall will cause the knot to slide and so absorb energy. ... Later tests involving 5.5-mm (1/4-in) Kevlar indicated that, when used as adjustable bends, these knots grip (i.e., do not slip) and break at around 80% of the absolute rupture load of the material used. This figure may be an underestimate." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.95, emphasis added).
Since the Adjustable Grip Hitch is a strong hitch (as Ashley and Budworth described above), it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage is that it can be used with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Adjustable Grip Hitch then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).
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For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
2. Alpine Butterfly Bend Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. This is a variation of the Alpine Butterfly which turns it into a secure bend.
Method #1 To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. In picture 1, the end of rope coming in from the right passes under and then through the loop from behind, then it curves upward to form a loop with the end crossing over on top of the main part of the rope. Notice that the two loops are essentially mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring both ends of rope through the center of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind (picture 2). Notice in picture 2 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from the same direction (i.e. from behind). Dress and set the knot (picture 3).
-1 -2
-3
One nice thing about this bend is that it doesn't matter whether the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front or from behind, which makes it easier to file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Bends.htm (3 of 25) [3/12/2010 9:38:27 AM] Bends remember how to tie this bend. The important thing is that the two interlocked loops are mirror- images of each other, and that both ends of rope pass through the center of the knot from behind.
This knot is somewhat similar to the Ashley Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.
Method #2 Here is another method of tying the Alpine Butterfly Bend which is essentially the same as my preferred method of tying the Alpine Butterfly. This makes it easy to remember how to tie the loop or the bend whenever you need them. Start by wrapping one end of rope once around your hand (strand #1 in picture 1 below) so that the end of the rope comes up from the bottom (as part of strand #2 in picture 1). In reality you would hold the end of rope against your palm with your thumb, unlike in the pictures. Then overlap the other end of rope with the first end of rope (as part of strand #2 in picture 1), holding both ends with your thumb, and wrap the rope around your hand so that you essentially have three strands of rope laying on the palm of your hand (picture 1 below). Grab the left-most strand (#1 in picture 1) and bring it all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 1 and 2). Once again grab the left-most "strand" (i.e. the two overlapped ends) (#2 in picture 3) and bring the ends all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 3 and 4). After bringing the overlapped ends over the other two strands, push them back to the left under the other two strands (picture 5). The dressed knot should look like picture 3 above.
-1 -2
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-3 -4
-5
According to Budworth, the Alpine Butterfly can be pulled in two or three directions at once without distorting or capsizing, and he says that if your rope is damaged then you can isolate the damaged area by tying an Alpine Butterfly around it (The Complete Book of Knots, p.86-87). This indicates that the Alpine Butterfly is a strong and secure bend, because the two ends of rope can be viewed as a "damaged" section of the rope.
In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (p.72), Brion Toss refers to this as the Strait Bend, and he says, "This knot, structurally analogous to the Butterfly Knot (Figure 3-34), is the strongest of this series and neither slips nor jams." On p.70, Toss says that in his experience, the Strait Bend (the Alpine Butterfly Bend) is on a par with the Ashley Bend, which survived 100 pulls in Ashley's testing.
Method #3 An alternate way to tie two ropes together is simply to make interlocking Alpine Butterfly loops, similar to the Bowline Bend.
Since the Alpine Butterfly is one of the strongest and most secure loop knots, it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage of this method is that it can be used file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Bends.htm (5 of 25) [3/12/2010 9:38:27 AM] Bends with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Alpine Butterfly then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
3. The Ashley Bend or ABOK #1452 Clifford Ashley invented this bend and published it in The Ashley Book of Knots, listing it simply as #1452. For this reason, people sometimes refer to it as ABOK #1452 ("Ashley Book of Knots" #1452), or as "the Ashley Bend."
To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should pass over and then through the loop from the front, then it should curve downward and form a loop with the end crossing over on top of the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring both ends of rope through the center of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind (pictures 2 and 3). Notice in picture 3 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from the same direction (i.e. from behind). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).
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It's important that the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front, and that it loops downward and crosses over on top of itself. Also, both ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from behind. Otherwise you won't end up with the Ashley Bend.
This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.
In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (p.70), Brion Toss says that the Ashley Bend has all of the advantages of the Zeppelin Bend, but it is easier to tie. Toss also points out that the Ashley Bend survived 100 pulls in Ashley's testing (p.70).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
4. Bowline Bend or ABOK #1455 Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. The Bowline Bend is simply made up of two Bowlines tied to each other.
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Ashley says that this "is about the most common of all Hawser Bends." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.264, #1455)
For a discussion of some ways to "lock" a Bowline to make it more secure, see the forum topic called Simple lock for the bowline at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
5. Carrick Bend or ABOK #1439 The Carrick Bend has been called a nearly perfect bend. To tie this knot, first make a loop in one end of rope (which is coming down from above in picture 1), making sure that the end of the rope passes under the main part of the rope. Then bring the second end of rope completely under the loop (picture 1). Pass the second end of rope over the main part of the first end of rope, then under the first end of rope (picture 2). Now thread the second end of rope over, under, then over as in picture 3. Inspect the second end of rope very carefully to make sure that it exactly alternates between going under and going over as it threads its way through the knot. Dress and set the knot (picture 4).
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Ashley says that this is "perhaps the nearest thing we have to a perfect bend. It is symmetrical, it is easy to tie, it does not slip easily in wet material, it is among the strongest of knots, it cannot jam and is readily untied." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.262, #1439).
According to Budworth, "Although often assumed to be strong, it is in fact only about 65% efficient. ... The symmetrical layout of the carrick bend, with eight crossing points, yields several different knots, depending on what goes over and under where. For this reason, some very unreliable knots have been misleadingly labelled carrick bends." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.43).
One big drawback of the Carrick Bend is that if you don't follow the under-over arrangement exactly right then the bend will be unsafe, and in fact various books, manuals, websites, etc., contain incorrect pictures of the Carrick Bend. However, this is a good bend for string (when tied correctly) because it is easier to untie than most of the other bends.
This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
6. Double Dragon Bend Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. This is my variation of the Double Dragon which turns it into a bend. In pictures 1 and 2, notice that the two ends of rope are not evenly lined up with each other. This helps them to be evenly lined up when the knot is dressed and set (picture 3).
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This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. However, there has been some discussion on the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning the use of the Double Dragon as a mid-line loop or a bend because this might cause the knot to jam and be difficult to untie (for example, see the forum topic called Double Dragon vs. Double-tucked Angler).
Method #2 An alternate way to tie two ropes together is simply to make interlocking Double Dragons, similar to the Bowline Bend.
Since the Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly as a strong and secure loop knot, it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage of this method is that it can be used with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Double Dragon then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
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7. Double Fisherman's Knot or Grapevine Knot or Double English Knot or ABOK #1415 This bend is similar to the basic Fisherman's Knot, except that it uses Double Overhand Knots instead of regular Overhand Knots. This seems to be a popular bend among rock climbers. It is generally considered to be a strong and secure bend, but it can be very difficult to untie. Using one end of rope, tie a Double Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 1). Now flip the rope over and once again tie a Double Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 2). Notice in picture 1 that the end of rope with a blue circle on it is on the right side, and when you flip the rope over (picture 2) then the end of rope with a blue circle is now on the left side. I find that it works best if you tighten the knot in picture 1 before flipping the rope over to tie the second knot, but I left the first knot untightened in picture 2 just for the sake of clarity. After you tighten the two knots, pull them together and they should stack nicely next to each other (picture 3).
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This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
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8. Double Sheet Bend or ABOK #1434 This is a variation of the Sheet Bend in which you make an extra turn with the end of rope that is coming up from the bottom in picture 1.
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This is more secure than the basic Sheet Bend, but it still is not usually considered to be a very strong knot. In Ashley's testing, the Double Sheet Bend came apart after only 36 pulls, compared with the Ashley Bend which stayed intact through 100 pulls (see p.273 of The Ashley Book of Knots or p.70 of The Complete Rigger's Apprentice by Brion Toss).
This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness, and it is good for tying ends of cloth together.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
9. Figure-Eight Bend or Flemish Bend or ABOK #1411 This is essentially a "rethreaded" Figure-Eight Knot. First tie a Figure-Eight Knot in one end of a rope (picture 1), then take the other end of rope and follow all of the twists and turns of the Figure-Eight Knot from the other direction (pictures 2 and 3). Carefully dress and set the knot (picture 4). Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other.
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This is generally considered to be a secure bend, but Ashley says that "It is bulky and bothersome to tie, and not to be preferred to [the Ring Knot], which is made in a similar manner." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1411, brackets added).
On the other hand, Budworth says, "Writing in The Ashley Book of Knots (1944), Clifford W. Ashley deemed this knot '... bulky and bothersome to tie'. (He preferred the tape knot (p.100)). This is another instance where the needs of sailors and climbers differ" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.96).
So Ashley preferred the Ring Knot (the Tape Knot) over the Figure-Eight Bend, but Budworth feels that the Figure-Eight Bend is better for climbers. For extra security, many climbers add some type of "stopper knots" to the ends of the rope, such as Double Overhand Knots:
However, people have had serious accidents by not properly rethreading the Figure-Eight Knot (for example, see SILT HAPPENS #99-2 and do a Find on "Figure 8's vs. Bowlines").
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Method #2 An alternate form of a Figure-Eight Bend is the Abnormal Figure-Eight Bend. To tie this knot, simply hold the two ends of rope together and tie a Figure-Eight Knot:
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The general consensus among climbers seems to be that this version is not a very reliable bend. For example, when the ropes are pulled in opposite directions then it can cause this knot to distort and become unsafe (unlike the normal Figure-Eight Bend, above).
Both forms of this bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
10. Fisherman's Knot or Water Knot or Angler's Knot or English Knot or Englishman's Knot or True Lover's Knot or Waterman's Knot or ABOK #1414 Oddly, the Fisherman's Knot is actually a bend, and the Fisherman's Bend is actually a hitch.
The Fisherman's Knot is similar to the Double Fisherman's Knot, except that it uses regular Overhand Knots instead of Double Overhand Knots. Using one end of rope, tie an Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 1). Now flip the rope over and once again tie an Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 2). Notice in picture 1 that the end of rope with a blue circle on it is on the right side, and when you flip the rope over (picture 2) then the end of rope with a blue circle is now on the left side. I find that it works best if you tighten the knot in picture 1 before flipping the rope over to tie the second knot, but I left the first knot untightened in picture 2 just for the sake of clarity. After you tighten the two knots, pull them together and they should stack nicely next to each other (picture 3).
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According to Budworth, "This is - strictly speaking - a strong and secure bend to join two similar ropes." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.39). However, climbers seem to prefer the Double Fisherman's Knot for its greater strength and security.
The Fisherman's Knot is easy to remember, easy to tie, it results in a small, clean, nice-looking knot which is less bulky than most of the other bends, and it is now one of my preferred bends for a variety of applications. However, it can be difficult to untie if it has been under a strain.
This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
11. Hunter's Bend or Rigger's Bend To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should pass over and then through the loop from the front, then it should curve upward and form a loop with the end crossing behind the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring the end of rope
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It's important that the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front, and that it loops upward and crosses behind itself. Also, the two ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from different directions. Otherwise you won't end up with the Hunter's Bend.
This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Ashley Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.
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Bend.
12. Overhand Bend or ABOK #1410 This is simple and quick to tie, but it is often considered to be a weak bend. For example, when the ropes are pulled in opposite directions then it can cause this knot to distort and become unsafe. To tie this knot, simply hold the two ends of rope together and tie an Overhand Knot.
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Ashley says that the Overhand Bend "ranks higher than the Sheet Bend in security, but is among the weakest of the bends." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1410).
This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.
For climbers, it is possible that the Overhand Bend (with long tails) has some advantages over other bends, according to Rope and Gear Testing. Since long tails are needed with an Overhand Bend when used for climbing, this demonstrates that an Overhand Bend can distort and become unsafe if the tails are not long enough. Otherwise, long tails wouldn't be needed! This also raises the question of how long the tails really need to be.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
13. Reef Knot or Square Knot or ABOK #1402 This is not a bend, but I included it here because people sometimes erroneously use it as a bend. The Reef Knot is unreliable and unsafe when used as a bend.
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For more on the Reef Knot, see the Miscellaneous Knots section.
Ashley says that the Reef Knot is admirable as a binder knot, "but under no circumstances should it be used as a bend." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1402).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
14. Ring Knot or Water Knot or Tape Knot or ABOK #1412 This bend is often referred to as the Water Knot, but Ashley says that there are a number of knots which are called the Water Knot, so it is perhaps best to use the name Ring Knot for this bend (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1412). When it is used with strips of webbing (such as the kind that rock climbers use) then it is sometimes referred to as the Tape Knot. To tie this knot, first tie an Overhand Knot in one end of rope (picture 1), then take the other end of rope and follow all of the twists and turns of the Overhand Knot from the other direction (pictures 2 and 3). Carefully dress and set the knot (picture 4).
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This is a fairly secure, nice-looking knot for tying two ropes of the same thickness, although it
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According to Budworth, "This is the bend recommended for climbers' tape or webbing. It also works in rope, cord, string and the finest monofilaments. ... Isaac Walton called this knot the water knot. Hutton referred to it as the ring knot" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.100).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
15. Sheet Bend or ABOK #1431 This is a well-known bend, but it is not generally considered to be very strong or reliable.
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According to Budworth, "Security tests have shown it to spill after an average 22 tugs out of 100, and it is not a very strong knot, with a breaking strength of 55%." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.40).
This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness, and it is good for tying ends of cloth together.
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
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16. Zeppelin Bend or Rosendahl's Bend This was Lieutenant Commander Charles Rosendahl's preferred bend for mooring the zeppelin that he commanded, which is where the name of this bend comes from.
To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should form a loop with the end curving down and crossing behind the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1, and notice that the end of rope coming in from the right does not pass through the loop on the left. Place the loop on the left on top of the loop on the right (picture 2), then bring the end of rope on the left through the center of the knot from behind (picture 3), then bring the end of rope on the right through the center of the knot from the front (picture 4). Notice in picture 4 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from different directions (one from behind and one from the front). Dress and set the knot (picture 5).
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It is important that the end of rope on the left curves upward and crosses over itself, and that the end of rope on the right curves downward and crosses behind itself. Also, the two ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from different directions. Otherwise you won't end up with the Zeppelin bend. It is also important that the loop on the left is placed on top of the loop on the right, otherwise you will end up with a false Fisherman's Knot which has no security at all!
This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Ashley Bend, and the Hunter's Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.
According to Budworth, "This is probably the best of a whole trustworthy family of symmetrical bends comprising two interlocked overhand knots. It works even in big stiff hawsers and cables and is suitable for everything from hobbies to heavy industrial use. ... The knot does not have to be completely tightened before loading; it is secure even with daylight showing through it (fig. 4)." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.44).
For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.
Summary
The Reef Knot (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the Square Knot) is unreliable and unsafe as a bend. It should never be used for that purpose. The Overhand Bend is quick and simple, and it is used sometimes when the rope or string will not need to hold a heavy load. It is not generally considered to be very safe or secure, and it can be difficult to untie after it has held a load. However, it's possible that the Overhand Bend (with long tails) has some advantages for climbers. The Sheet Bend and the Double Sheet Bend can be useful for tying ends of cloth together, but they are generally considered to be too weak and unreliable for rope or string.
The Carrick Bend and Double Fisherman's Knot are generally considered to be strong and secure, but they have certain disadvantages. For example, they can be difficult to remember how to tie properly if you don't use them very often, and the Double Fisherman's Knot can also be very difficult to untie. The
file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Bends.htm (21 of 25) [3/12/2010 9:38:27 AM] Bends Carrick Bend is usually very easy to untie, which makes it a good bend for string.
The Adjustable Grip Hitches (Interlocked), Alpine Butterfly Bend, Bowline Bend, Double Dragon Bend, and Figure-Eight Bend are all based on hitches or loop knots which are fairly strong and secure. These have an advantage over other bends because they work well when tying together two ropes of different thicknesses (when they are tied as interlocked loops).
The Ring Knot (Water Knot, Tape Knot) is easy to remember because it is simply a rethreaded Overhand Knot, and it results in a nice-looking knot. It is fairly easy to tie and dress, and it is a fairly strong and secure bend, but it can be difficult to untie after holding a load. It is also recommended when tying together webbing (or tape), wet materials, rubber materials, and so on.
The Figure-Eight Bend (Flemish Bend) is fairly easy to remember because it is simply a rethreaded Figure-Eight Knot, but it is less quick and easy to tie and dress than the Ring Knot. It is also bulkier than the Ring Knot. However, due to its twists and turns it has more internal friction than the Ring Knot, and therefore it is stronger and more secure. For this reason, climbers often prefer the Figure-Eight Bend (with some type of Stopper Knots) over other bends for situations when lives are at stake.
The Fisherman's Knot (Angler's Knot, Englishman's Knot, True Lover's Knot, etc.) is easy to remember, easy to tie, and it results in a small, clean, nice-looking knot which is less bulky than most of the other bends. However, it can be difficult to untie if it has held a heavy load.
The Alpine Butterfly Bend, Ashley Bend (ABOK #1452), Hunter's Bend (Rigger's Bend), and Zeppelin Bend (Rosendahl's Bend) are all based on interlocked Overhand Knots, and they are all considered to be strong and secure bends. However, the Alpine Butterfly Bend has some potential advantages over the other three bends. For one thing, if you stick with the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (as suggested in this series of articles), then it will be easy to know that you have tied this bend correctly because it will have the Alpine Butterfly "look" to it. Also, the other three bends are "unforgiving" in the sense that if you pass one end of rope through a loop in the other end of rope from the wrong direction, or if you curve the second end of rope upwards when you should have curved it downwards, or if you cross the second end of rope on top of itself when it should have crossed behind itself, then you will not end up with the bend that you were trying to tie. In contrast, the Alpine Butterfly Bend is very forgiving. It doesn't matter which way you pass the second end of rope through the loop in the first end of rope, and it doesn't matter if you curve the two ends of rope upwards or downwards, and it doesn't matter if you cross the two ends of rope on top of themselves or behind themselves. The only thing that matters is that the two ends of rope form interlocked loops which are mirror-images of each other (just like the wings of a butterfly are mirror-images of each other!), and that they both pass through the center of the knot together (i.e. in the same direction). This makes the Alpine Butterfly Bend very easy to remember how to tie properly, unlike the other three bends. The Alpine Butterfly Bend can also be tied using one of the methods for tying the Alpine Butterfly loop, which makes both of these forms of the Alpine Butterfly easy to remember. In addition, Budworth says that the Alpine Butterfly can be pulled in two or three directions at once without distorting or capsizing, and that you can isolate a damaged section of rope by
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Be sure to practice tying your favorite knots periodically (from different angles) so that you'll know how to tie them when you need them.
The purpose of this series of articles is to try to boil the thousands of knots down to just a few of the best rope and string knots that can safely be used for a wide variety of purposes. People such as climbers, sailors, search-and-rescue workers, etc., have their preferred bends, but for the average person it is probably "overkill" to try to learn and remember lots of different ways of tying two ends of rope or string together. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong bends which you can remember easily, and my preferences are the Fisherman's Knot for rope or string of similar thickness which will not hold a heavy load, or the more secure Alpine Butterfly Bend for ropes of the same or different thicknesses. If you are an "average person" who doesn't need specialized knots (such as the kind that climbers, sailors, and so on, might need), then the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (single-loop, double- loop, triple-loop, and bends) should serve you well in a variety of situations.
For other people's preferred knots, see the topic called "Best of breed" knots? at the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.
Site Map
Here is a list of the articles in this series. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:
● Home Page
● Knots Index
● Single-Loop Knots
● Double-Loop Knots
● Triple-Loop Knots
● Hitches
● Bends (this page) ● Miscellaneous Knots
● Decorative Knots
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Consider visiting some of my other websites!
You'll find a Christian ministry with dozens and dozens of articles and answers to many questions that I have received over the years (please feel free to send me your questions and prayer requests!); plus a collection of some of the best self-working card tricks around (no sleight-of-hand required!); plus a bunch of amazing/funny/fascinating/interesting videos from around the Web which are all clean and family-friendly; plus lots of reviews of numerous fun and educational (and free!) computer games that you can download; plus a huge collection of cool science tricks and other fun stuff to try (using things around the house), and more!
For a complete list, go to http://www.Layhands.com/DaveRootsWebsites.htm.
Hope you like 'em!
"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Bends" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Bends.htm
Modification History
11/17/2006: Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites." 10/17/2005: Added the ABOK # to the list of names for each knot (based on Clifford Ashley's The Ashley Book Of Knots). Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file. 09/30/2005: Added some clarifications to point out that interlocked loops are not really bends. 01/26/2005: Added another way to tie an Alpine Butterfly Bend. Special thanks to my 10-year-old son Michael for lending a hand! 01/13/2005: Enhanced the descriptions of the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Carrick Bend, the Double Sheet Bend, the Figure-Eight Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend. Added the Ashley Bend. Added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning ways of "locking" a Bowline to make it more secure. Added some cautions concerning the Double Dragon Bend and the Fisherman's Knot because they can jam and become difficult to untie. Changed my preferred bends to the Fisherman's Knot and the Alpine Butterfly Bend, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.
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07/14/2004: Added new pictures of the Double Fisherman's Knot, the Figure-Eight Bend, the Fisherman's Knot, and the Ring Knot. 07/09/2004: Added a comment that the Overhand Bend might have some benefits over other bends for climbers. 05/04/2004: Added the Hunter's Bend and a variation of an Alpine Butterfly Bend. 04/15/2004: Added two variations of the Double Dragon knot. 12/10/2002: New article.
Dave Root Houston, TX, USA
Send e-mail to: [email protected]
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The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know Decorative Knots
For your convenience, you can now download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file: UsefulRopeKnots.zip (approx. 4 MB). To unzip this file, try downloading a free evaluation version of WinZip at WinZip's Download Page. Be sure to come back here periodically to check for any changes to these articles.
Site Map
If you have never visited this website before then I would recommend that you begin at the Home Page. It explains that the type of rope you use, the age of the rope, the wear and tear on the rope, the types of knots you tie, whether you tied the knots properly or not, whether you "dressed" the knots properly or not, whether you "set" the knots properly or not, and so on, all have an impact on the Safe Working Load of your rope and the security of the knots you tie. Whatever risks are associated with the rope or string that you use and the knots that you tie, remember that the risks are entirely your own.
Here is a list of the articles in this series. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:
● Home Page
● Knots Index
● Single-Loop Knots
● Double-Loop Knots
● Triple-Loop Knots
● Hitches
● Bends
● Miscellaneous Knots
● Decorative Knots (this page)
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Decorative Knots
Knots can be attractive and decorative in addition to being useful. This article describes several decorative knots which were chosen for their symmetric and attractive qualities, as well as for their ease of tying. There are many other decorative knots, but they can be quite complex to tie (in other words, I didn't include them here because I haven't yet figured out how to tie them properly!).
Here is a small selection of the many websites which contain pictures of fancy knots:
● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots by Bos'n Reilly
● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Star Knots
● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Turk's Head Knots
● Knot Gallery - The Work of IGKT Members
● Knot Heads Gallery
● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from Australia
● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from the Netherlands
● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from Texas
● Knotwork
Just for fun (and possibly for practical purposes as well), try your hand at these decorative knots:
1. Blimp Knot This can be used as a decorative "stopper knot" or "pull knot" at the end of a rope or string. To tie this knot, start with an Overhand Knot (picture 1), then follow the rest of the pictures.
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Budworth calls this a "Blimp Knot" because it is similar to a Zeppelin Bend but is smaller and softer, and he says, "This is a nicely symmetrical ornamentation for an otherwise uninteresting length of cord." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.34).
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2. Braid Knot This can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start by looping the rope around twice in order to create three strands to work with (picture 1). Begin "braiding" the three strands (just like braiding hair) by bringing the bottom strand over the center strand, then bringing the top strand over the new center strand (picture 2). Continue alternating in this way (picture 3) until you have braided as far as you can go (picture 4). As you are braiding the rope, the end of the rope will become twisted and tangled (which is starting to happen in picture 2). Simply pull the end of the rope out of the tangle periodically (picture 3) to keep it untangled.
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Budworth says, "It shortens and adds attractive bulk to a light pull, waist-tie, friendship braid, or whatever. In thicker material it creates a superb makeshift handle for a travelling case." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.35)
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3. Chain Stitch or Chain Plait or Chain Sinnet or ABOK #2868 Like the Braid Knot, this can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start somewhere in the middle of the rope by tying a Slip Knot (picture 1). Push a bight from the end of the rope through the loop of the Slip Knot (picture 2), and continue pushing a new bight through each previous bight, working your way towards the end of the rope. Push the end of the rope through the final bight in order to "lock" the Chain Stitch (picture 3). To untie this knot, simply remove the end of the rope from the final bight, then pull both ends of the rope apart from each other. This will untie all of the Slip Knots. Kids love this one because all of the knots seem to "magically" disappear at once when both ends are pulled!
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4. Chinese Button or ABOK #600 This was the knot which Chinese tailors traditionally used as buttons on dresses, jackets, night attire, and so on (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.64). To tie this knot, lay out the rope on a table and follow the over and under sequence exactly as in the pictures. It looks complicated, but just take it step by step. Picture 4 is identical to picture 3, but with blue lines to indicate more clearly which parts of the rope are crossing over other parts of the rope. After you tie the knot as in picture 3, slowly and carefully tighten the knot and work it into a button shape (picture 5).
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Budworth says that "Like so many fancy knots, this is a pleasure simply to make for its own sake, but it does create a basic button suitable for any occasion." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.63)
5. Dragonfly To tie a Dragonfly, start as in picture 1 (I added some beads for eyes, but they're not necessary). This creates two bights pointing upward, and a downward-pointing bight in the middle. Bring the right-most end of string across on top of the downward-pointing bight, then pass it under the end of string on the left (picture 2). Bring the left-most end of string under the downward-pointing bight, then pass it through the loop on the right (picture 3). The end of string which is now on the left is the one that passed over on top of the downward-pointing bight, and it will always pass over on top of the downward-pointing bight as you tie the Dragonfly. Essentially you will be tying Reef Knots all the way down, similar to the Portuguese Sinnet. Bring the end on the left (which is green in picture 4) over on top of the downward bight (picture 4), then bring the other end (which is red in picture 5) over on top of the green string, then under the downward bight, then through the green loop on the left (picture 5). Notice in picture 5 that you have tied a Reef Knot. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the beads in order to form the Dragonfly's head (picture 6). Tie another Reef Knot (pictures 7 and 8), remembering that the green string always passes over on top of the downward bight. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the Dragonfly's head, then form the wings (picture 9). Tie another Reef Knot (picture 10), remembering that the green string always passes over on top of the downward bight. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the Dragonfly's head, then tie another Reef Knot (picture 11). At this point you might want to tie a couple more Reef Knots in order to create some separation between the two sets of wings, but I didn't do this in the pictures. Tighten the Reef Knot(s) and draw
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them up towards the head, then form a smaller pair of wings (picture 12). At this point you can continue to tie Reef Knots all the way down the Dragonfly's body, or you can simply make a few more Reef Knots and then leave the rest of the downward bight as the Dragonfly's body (pictures 13 and 14). To finish off the Dragonfly, cut the ends of string and then glue them behind the Dragonfly.
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6. Good Luck Knot or Shamrock Knot or ABOK #2436 This is a very attractive knot which seems complicated at first, but it is actually not very difficult to tie. It is similar to the Triple Crown Knot.
To tie this knot, first lay out the rope on a table as in picture 1 so that there are three bights pointing North, West, and East. The two ends of the rope are pointing South. It is helpful to place an object such file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Decorative.htm (7 of 18) [3/12/2010 9:38:30 AM] Decorative Knots
as a screwdriver across the two ends of the rope (as in picture 2), then bring the two ends of the rope up and over the East-pointing bight so that the ends of rope are now pointing North (picture 2). Bring the East-pointing bight over to the left so that it is now pointing West (picture 3). Bring the North-pointing bight over and down so that it is now pointing South, and tuck it under the screwdriver (picture 4). Bring the West-pointing bight over to the right and tuck it through exactly where the screwdriver is laying, then remove the screwdriver (picture 5). Carefully pull the ends of the rope and the three bights in order to tighten the knot at the center (picture 6). Place the screwdriver across the ends of the rope again, then bring the ends of the rope over and down so that they are pointing South (picture 7). Repeat the procedure for the three bights as before (first with the East-pointing bight, then with the South- pointing bight, then tuck the West-pointing bight through where the screwdriver is, then remove the screwdriver) (picture 8). Turn the knot over and notice that the back side has four extra strands of rope which do not appear on the front side of the knot (compare pictures 8 and 9). Pull those four extra strands of rope out slightly so that they form four small loops (picture 10). Finish tightening the knot (picture 11).
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Budworth says, "Embellish a gift-wrapped parcel with this knot, hang it around your neck (or give one to a friend) or on your front door during any festive season, or use it as a complex of belt loops for keys or tools." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.46)
7. Jug Sling Hitch or ABOK #1142 This decorative knot is useful for creating a carrying handle (or a hanging handle, etc.) for bottles, bags, and so on. To tie this knot, start as in picture 1. Grab the vertical strand of rope on the left (near the top), and bring it under the vertical strand on the right, then bend it back over towards the left again (picture 2). Notice the part of the rope which crosses over the two vertical strands in picture 1, and find that same section of rope in picture 2 (it is marked with a blue circle in picture 2). Bring that strand under the strand above it (marked with a red square in picture 2), then bring it over the two linked loops at the top of picture 2 (as in picture 3). With your thumb and finger, hold the two strands which are crossing each other where the red arrow is pointing in picture 3. Bring the pink and black sections of rope in picture 3 down to their new positions in picture 4. Place the neck of the bottle through the center of the knot, then tighten the knot (picture 5). file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Decorative.htm (9 of 18) [3/12/2010 9:38:30 AM] Decorative Knots
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8. Knife Lanyard or ABOK #787 This makes an attractive lanyard knot. To tie this knot, first lay out the rope on a table and form a bight facing to the left (which will become the loop for this lanyard knot), then form a small loop with the upper end of the rope (picture 1). In pictures 2 and 3, take the bottom end of the rope and then form a Carrick Bend. After you complete the Carrick Bend, look closely to make sure that the rope is crossing under and over in an exactly alternating pattern. Pictures 6, 7, and 8 are identical to pictures 3, 4, and 5, but with blue lines to indicate more clearly which parts of the rope are crossing over other parts of the rope. In picture 4, take the end of the rope which is pointing to the South-West and bring it up and over the knot, then bring it through the center of the Carrick Bend (from behind). In picture 5, take the end of the rope which is pointing to the North-East, bring it under the other end of the rope, then over the original bight (the one which will become the main loop), then bring it under the Carrick Bend and through the center of the Carrick Bend (from behind). Now both ends of the rope are coming out of the center of the Carrick Bend from behind. Carefully tighten the knot into a symmetrical shape as in picture 9. To use this as a lanyard knot, slide the loop through a key ring, knife ring, etc. (picture 9), then pass the loop over the object (the key, knife, etc.) and pull the knot tight (picture 10). This forms a Lark's Head Hitch (Cow Hitch) around the ring. If the object is too big to pass the loop of rope around
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it, then in picture 9 you can pass both ends of the rope through the loop in the rope. This will also form the Lark's Head Hitch (Cow Hitch) around the ring.
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Budworth says, "Originally used to form the loop of a neck lanyard that actually did have a seaman's
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knife suspended from it. This knot will do for anything requiring a fixed loop in a middled strand." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.48)
9. Monkey's Fist or ABOK #2202 This is a decorative knot which is often asked about, and it has a practical purpose as a way to add weight to the end of a rope for throwing it to someone else (as in heaving a line from one boat to another). My Monkey's Fists never seem to come out very well, so here are some pictures of how to tie this knot at the International Guild of Knot Tyers: http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.html.
10. Portuguese Sinnet or Solomon Bar or ABOK #2496 Like the Braid Knot and the Chain Stitch, the Portuguese Sinnet can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a fancy handle, and so on. To tie this knot, I like to begin with a Slip Knot in a doubled rope (picture 1). Tighten the knot, leaving just a small portion of the two loops sticking out to the right (picture 2). Make sure that the ends of the rope are the same length, and they should be about three times the length of the big loop which is pointing to the left in picture 2 (you'll get a better feel for this as you practice a few times). The big loop which is pointing to the left in picture 2 will be the "core" of the Portuguese Sinnet, so the finished Portuguese Sinnet will be the same length as the big loop. With the two ends of the rope, tie an Overhand Knot around the big loop as in picture 3, then tie another Overhand Knot so that you have tied a Reef Knot around the two strands of the big loop (picture 4). In picture 4, notice that the end of the rope which is at the bottom of the picture is always on top of the two strands of the big loop, and the other end of the rope is always on the bottom of the two strands of the big loop. Keep this order as you tie Overhand Knots all the way down the length of the big loop (picture 5). When the ends of the rope are almost used up, my way of locking the end of the Portuguese Sinnet is to pass both ends of the rope through the remaining portion of the big loop (from opposite directions), then tighten the big loop (to lock the ends of the rope) by pulling the big loop from the other end (where you had tied the Slip Knot) so that you end up with two loops at the "top" of the Portuguese Sinnet (picture 6).
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This method creates a flat version of the Portuguese Sinnet. If you tie Granny Knots instead of Reef Knots (picture 1 below) then you will end up with a fancy twisted version of the Portuguese Sinnet (picture 2).
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11. Square Knot or ABOK #1032 Many people refer to the Reef Knot as the Square Knot, but this is the "real" Square Knot. First make two small bights (curves) as in picture 1. The lower bight points to the left and the upper bight points to the right, then the main part of the rope curves up and around and then down. Bring the main part of the rope under the upper part of the upper bight, then completely on top of the lower bight (picture 2). Then bring the main part of the rope up and under both bights (picture 3), then bring it downwards over the upper bight and pass it under the lower part of the lower bight (picture 3). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).
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12. Turk's Head Knots or ABOK #1306 Turk's Head knots are popular for decorative as well as practical purposes. Turk's Heads are described in terms of the number of "Bights" (the "bends" along the outer edges) and "Leads" (the sets of criss- crossing strands) that they contain. If you don't have enough Bights (B) around an object then the knot will appear stretched out or elongated, and if you have too many Bights then you won't be able to properly tighten the knot around the object. The number of Leads (L) will determine how wide your knot will be.
To tie a 4Lx3B Turk's Head as a flat "mat," first form the shape in picture 1. Now bring the working end of the rope (i.e. the main part of the rope) back towards the right so that it passes entirely under the loop on the left (picture 2). Bring the working end of the rope back towards the left so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an over-under-over-under-over pattern, then curve it back towards the other end of the rope (picture 3). You have now created a "one-ply" 4Lx3B Turk's Head knot. To make a "two-ply" knot, simply rethread the entire knot with the working end of the rope, precisely following the original path (picture 4). This creates a "doubled" 4Lx3B Turk's Head mat, and you can make it as loose (with large gaps where the green is showing through in picture 4) or as tight (with little or no gaps) as you desire. If you have enough rope then you can thread the working end through the knot again to make a "three-ply" knot, and so on.
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Turk's Head knots are often tied around cylindrical objects. To tie a 4Lx3B Turk's Head around a post of some kind, first tie a basic Overhand Knot around the object (picture 1 below). Bring the working end of the rope behind the object (to the left of the Overhand Knot) and around to the front at the bottom of the object, then thread it through the Overhand Knot as in picture 2. Bring the working end back towards the left, over the first strand and under the second strand (picture 3). Now bring the working end behind the object (to the left of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom again, then thread it over-under-over as in picture 4. Now bring the working end behind the object (to the right of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom, and you have completed a one-ply 4Lx3B Turk's Head. If you thread the working end of the rope through the knot again, precisely following the original path, then tighten carefully, you will have a two-ply 4Lx3B Turk's Head (picture 5).
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To tie a 3Lx5B Turk's Head as a flat mat, first form the shape in picture 1. Now bring the working end of the rope back towards the right so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an over-under-over pattern (picture 2). Bring the working end back towards the left and down so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an under-over-under-over pattern, then curve it up towards the other end of the rope (picture 3). You now have a one-ply 3Lx5B Turk's Head mat. To make a two-ply mat, simply rethread the entire knot with the working end of the rope, precisely following the original path (picture 4). This creates a "doubled" 3Lx5B Turk's Head mat, and you can make it as loose (with large gaps where the green is showing through in picture 4) or as tight (with little or no gaps) as you desire. If you have enough rope then you can thread the working end through the knot again to make a three-ply knot, and so on. If you wish, you can pass an object through the center of the 3Lx5B mat, then tighten the knot carefully (picture 5).
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Here are several websites with more information on Turk's Head knots: