Hoofbeats of History

hoofbeats of History One of the Houston Livestock Show and& Rodeo’s most iconic events ends before the rodeo even begins. Story by Susan L. Ebert Photographs by Will van Overbeek Photo: Kevin Stillman Photo: Kevin Stillman 50 texashighways.com FEBRUARY 2018 51 Opener: Members of the Salt Grass Trail Ride, the oldest and largest ride, trot triumphantly on their Appaloosas As I drive into Houston’s Memorial Park. Opposite: Mules pull one of the Salt Grass wagons out of their campsite at west on Houston Farm & Ranch Club. Celebrating its 66th anniversary this year, the Salt Grass Trail Ride sowed the seeds for 11 more trail rides, 10 from beckendorf across Texas and one originating in Logansport, Louisiana (see sidebar on Road in Katy, the riders appear on In keeping with Texas-size stan- Page 56). Each of the 11 rides has its the western horizon of the road ahead dards, it’s the world’s largest organized own distinct personality, but arguably like a mirage. Scores of horseback trail ride. none can match the exuberance of “The figures and a group of covered wag- The idea for the first ride hatched Granddaddy of ’Em All,” the Salt Grass. ons warp on the horizon in the blaz- over lunch at the posh Cork Club in The ride takes its name from the re- ing noonday sun, dust blooming in Houston’s now-defunct Shamrock gion’s signature salt grass, which does puffy plumes from the horses’ hooves Hotel back in 1952: As Brenham Mayor not die back during winter as other and the wagons’ wheels. They drift, Reese Lockett launched into a roman- grasses do. Early Texas cattlemen, be- cloudlike, across the bluebonnet- ticized reverie about his younger days fore northern routes became profitable, bedecked pastureland. Having just spent on horseback driving cattle from would overwinter their herds on the cleared the Grand Parkway, the third the Hill Country to the Gulf Coast as a mineral-rich, salt-tolerant, thick grass outer loop around Houston, and de- young man, a buddy chided him, say- to fatten up before driving them east to parted the city’s concrete canyons ing, “Reese, you couldn’t ride your horse market in New Orleans. for the rolling grasslands of the Katy from Brenham to Houston.” The gaunt- Among the Salt Grass Trail Ride’s Prairie, I might be forgiven if my mind’s let thus thrown, Lockett determined to 24 wagons, arguably none are as style- playing tricks on me. saddle up and follow the old Salt Grass conscious as the Desperados’ Wagon But it’s not. I’ve been invited to lunch Trail into Houston for the opening of No. 13 with internationally acclaimed this February afternoon by members Houston Fat Stock Show (the precur- Western fashion designer Pat Dahnke, of Wagon No. 13 of the 1,200-rider, 24- sor of today’s Rodeo). He coaxed rancher who has ridden the Salt Grass every wagon Salt Grass Trail Ride—the old- friend E.H. Marks into joining him on year for 33 years, serving as its dress est of the 11 trail rides heading for Hous- horseback, with ranch hand John War- code officer. Each day’s outfit is classy ton. All in all, nearly 3,000 riders and nasch driving a mule wagon, followed yet practical: a brimmed dark hat (felt approximately 100 wagons will con- by a second wagon carrying KPRC re- or straw) with a stampede string, dark verge in Houston’s Memorial Park to porter Pat Flaherty, who chronicled boots, blue jeans, and matching shirts participate in the Downtown Rodeo Pa- the adventure. Lockett soon had news- and bandanas. On the back of the sad- rade, which heralds the opening of the papers and television stations vying for dle, a neatly rolled yellow riding slicker Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. coverage. As they rode toward Hous- emblazoned with the Desperados logo The 2018 event marks the 80th anniver- ton, a dozen or so other riders fell in. By completes the look. sary of the parade, which commences 1959, Lockett’s little “publicity stunt” “The members of the other wagons in downtown Houston on Feb. 24 and had swelled to more than 2,000 riders poked fun at us when we first started showcases the 11 HLSR trail rides that accompanied by nearly 100 wagons and wearing matching outfits,” Dahnke arrive in Houston from all points of comprised men, women, and children says. “But once they saw what an im- the compass. from all walks of life. pressive sight we were, most all of ’em EACH OF THE 11 RIDES HAS ITS OWN DISTINCT PERSONALITY, BUT ARGUABLY NONE CAN MATCH THE EXUBERANCE OF “THE GRANDDADDY OF ’EM ALL,” THE SALT GRASS. Photo: Kevin Stillman 52 texashighways.com FEBRUARY 2018 53 Mission San Francisco de la Espada. “We camp nearby and ride to Mission Espada to receive the blessing that commences the trail ride,” says Trail Boss Larry Valles, who rides a handsome line-back dun—a buckskin horse bear- ing the sign of the cross down its spine and across its withers (shoulders). “It’s a powerful experience. The next day, we ride into Seguin. As we cross over the Clockwise from bridge in the center of town, so many left: Two members people are out enjoying Walnut Springs of the Prairie View Park, and they line up by the fence to Trail Ride move in wave and cheer as we ride by. It’s a spe- for a smooch during cial Sunday morning.” a stop at Katherine Smith Elementary The Mission Trail Ride celebrates the School in Houston; history of the early vaqueros and cow- two participants in boys who drove cattle east from San An- the Texas Cattle- tonio to New Orleans over the Opelousas men’s Trail Ride Trail (roughly along the route of mod- arrive in style in a fringed wagon; a ern-day I-10, and along or parallel to the farrier shoes Beaux, Old Spanish Trail). On the first docu- a Salt Grass horse; mented Texas cattle drive in 1779, Fran- the Salt Grass cisco Garcia drove 2,000 head of cattle Trail Ride. Downtown east from San Antonio to New Orleans over the Opelousas Trail—long before Rodeo Parade the northern-bound Goodnight-Loving, Great Western, Chisholm, and Shaw- starts at 10 a.m. on Saturday, Feb. 24, at the corner of Bagby nee trails would enter Texas lore. and Walker streets. For more Valles, who has ridden with the Mis- on the Houston Livestock Show sion Trail Ride for 22 of its 27 years, and Rodeo, see Page 69. says the camaraderie of the ride is the ’em. They plan ahead for the pajama par- of families, plus friends, associates, and most rewarding part. “We have three, followed suit. As the Salt Grass Trail just popping out of the ground by their ties, costume parties, and motor-home total strangers have all become saddle sometimes four generations of families Ride stretches out for more than a mile roots. The horses turned their rumps “open houses” at their nightly stops— pals because of the Rodeo Parade. that ride with us,” he says. “Renewing as we come into Houston, it’s a breath- to the north and braced themselves and enjoy the camaraderie of commu- “We band together to keep every- friendships, having a good time being taking panorama.” against the onslaught. The horses’ de- nal meals around the campfire, often one safe,” Dahnke says. “Regardless of together, celebrating history, shar- Dahnke started riding the Salt Grass On the Trail meanor calmed the riders as the tor- followed by evening sing-alongs. “One whether someone’s an attorney or a jani- ing this great experience—that’s what in 1986 with her 5-year-old daughter, nado blustered through.” year, we had both Elvis and Billy Gib- tor, everyone’s looking out for each other keeps me involved.” Tara. This year marks the 32nd ride “The Rodeo starts in winter and The Salt Grass, with its size, moves bons look-alikes at the costume party,” and willing to lend a helping hand with a Later that day, I wheel my Jeep into for the duo. For the past several years, ends in spring,” is an expression you’ll like an advancing army. Before the Dahnke says. “That might have been thrown shoe, a broken strap, whatever.” the vast parking lot east of the Sam Tara—a horse trainer by trade—has commonly hear around Houston— riders arrive at today’s designated the year we danced on the tables until To the west, the Mission Trail Houston Race Park, where the Prai- served as the Desperados’ wrangler. February’s fickle weather means those lunch stop, a leading battalion com- they splintered.” Clearly, the ride deliv- Ride began its ride a full two weeks rie View Trail Ride is stopping for The steeds run the gamut from the on the trail ride must be prepared for prising RVs, dualies pulling horse ers plenty of fun and hijinks alongside prior to the parade at one of the old- the night. The first thing I notice is classic “bulldog-type” quarter horses to stinging sleet, heavy rains, and possi- trailers, “chuckwagon” trailers, and its regimented discipline. Generations est missions in Texas—San Antonio’s the striking difference in their horses spectacular leopard Appaloosas, flashy bly even tornadoes. semitrucks hauling flatbeds of porta- paints, and caramel-hued palominos. “Several years ago, a tornado hit just potties had prepared for them. And like Draft horses—including a particularly as we were making camp in late after- drill sergeants, the trail bosses of the “REGARDLESS OF WHETHER SOMEONE’S AN ATTORNEY striking team of Belgians—pull wagon noon,” says Pat Dahnke, as we slurp 24 wagons hold all riders to the pre- duty.

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