(See Boxes Top & Bottom For Quality l'rices)

*Each in Quantities of 1 to 5 SETTINGS **Each in Quantities of 6 or more 10-106 10-102 6-Prong, Low Base 6-Prong size: .02 to 1 ct. Carat size: 1 /8 to 3ct 10-115 Price: $1.81 to $15.89* Price: $6.04 to $16.86* Top, 15-1 1/2 ct. $1.64 to $14.36** $5.46 to $15.21 * • Range, 10mm size. Price: $35.11 */$31.73 ..

10-105 4-Prong Carat size: 1/8 to 3ct. 10-114 Cluster Top, 7 Stone, .07 Price: $7.71 to $17.99* Melee Size, 9mm Spread $6.98 to $16.26* • Price: $28.25* /$25.96* •

DIAMOND SETTINGS CLASPS ~PERPAIR 15-101 Size: 5mm Price: $21 .00 ea. ~ S1~~110 oz e: .01 ct. $228.75 dz. Price: $10.91 */ $9.86* • 15-102 Size: 7mm Price: $27 .35 ea. $305.00 dz. Size: .01 ct. Price: $8.53*/$7.71 ** 15-103 Size: 3mm Links Price: $15.00 ea. $161.70 dz. 15-104 Round ~ Price: $10.10 ea. IJ""-.. ~'tk,Price: $8.32* / $7.52* • $109.00 dz.

15-105 Square Price: $10.96 ea.:tj::) Write For New Catalog 182-F, Cost $1.00 or ~ FREE ON REQUEST WITH ORDER $119.50 dz, ~13Size: .02ct. Price: $11.99 • /$10.83 • • 15-100 RING SHANKS E-Z Lock® Price: $7.45 ea. BUTTERCUP $77.25 dz. MOUNTINGS 11-103 11-107 11-111 Med. Weight/Notched Replacement Shank Designer Shank Price: $26,40* Price: $18.24* Price: $71.90* $23.55*. $16.48*. $64.98* LOOPS 13-105 Size: 5x5mm STONES Price $2.59*/$2.34 .. Carat size: .02 to .50 For oesign work And Rep1acemenot Price: $10.56 to $39.84* Standard Stone Shapes 13-110 $9.54 to $36.00* • Size: 12x6mm Price: White, $4.05 • /$3.66 • • Yellow, $3.56*/$2.91 ** 13-102-Pendant Carat size: .03 to .50 $5.21 to$19.32* ~ OO Cabochon Pear Round Navette $4.71 to $17.46** *Each in Quantities of 1 to 5 **Each in Quantities of 6 or more

Cushion Octagon Antiquto Oval VOLUME 6, NUMBER 7 JULY 1982 Inside ® Modern H ROLOGICAL German Movements

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute 14 Newly Elected

JOE CROOKS THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 4 Jn Appreciation And Recognition Board

ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY 8 The Modern Watchmaker's Lathe, Part XII Members

HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 12 A Swartzwald Perhaps? 20

DAVID G. ARNOLD CURING CATASTROPHIC WEAR IN 14 MODERN GERMAN MOVEMENTS AWi Presents GERALD G. JAEGER 18 ELECTRICITY FOR THE HOROLOGIST MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 22 Useful Tools And Materials For Jewelry Repair Bulova Course

ORVILLE R. HAGANS IN THE SPOTLIGHT 26 Keeping Time In England 36 FRED S. BURCKHARDT 30 THE ROCK QUARRY Specific Gravity, Fluorescence and Phosphorescence Basel Fair SEAN C. (PAT) MONK 32 ESSENCE OF REPAIR The Standard 30-Hour Cuckoo Clock

MILTON C. STEVENS 36 AWi NEWS Recap The A WI-Bulova Program

ROBERT ALLIS 38 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 47 New Careers - New Members

THOMAS IMAI 46 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING DEPARTMENTS Horological Instructors Readers Write/6 Association N ews/3 8 Book Review/40 New Members/42 Bench Tips/43 A WI Bench Courses/44

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American News in the Trade/ SO Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Subscription, $30.00 per year, New Products and Literature/52 $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per copy outside the United States. Classified Ads/54 Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL Advertisers lndex/56 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Dates to Remember/56 FELLOWS OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE .Josephine F. Haaans Orville R. Ha&ans Hamilton E. Peu, Marvin E. Whitney Henry B. Fried

Executive and Editorial Offices AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

HaroldJ. Herman: Editor Maury Norrell: Managing Editor/Advertising Editorial Lu Ann Martin: Assistant Editor When the interior of a car is vacummed, the glass cleaned, the Catherine Bell: Art Director outside washed, and the white sidewalls cleaned, it sparkles, Sue Scott: Business Manager renewing that good feeling the owner had when it was pur­ chased. After this cosmetic surgery, the engines seems to oper­ Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation ate better, the steering seems to be more responsive, and it seems to cushion the road bumps better .. Technical Editors: To the layman, a major overhaul on a car seems to show almost Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond nothing, sometimes initiating thoughts as to whether or not Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole the amount charged is in balance with the work performed. Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith But cosmetic surgery can turn the customer's attitude to the Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. Paul Fisk James L. Tigner positive side since he can see what the workman has performed. Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney Orville R. Hagans To help increase your volume, polish and clean cases and Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger attachments and polish scratches from crystals. Then point SeanC. Monk out to the customer what you have done. Robert A. Nelson

A WI Officers Naturally, if you do not want a lifelong customer and repeated business, avoid the cosmetic surgery. Joe Crooks: President Marshall F. Richmond, CMW: 1st V.P. Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW: 2nd V.P. James H. Broughton, CEWS: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer

A WI Directors: Dorothy Aderman Otto Benesh, CMC Robert Bishop Jay M. Foreman, Jr. Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC, FAWI Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS On the Front Sean C. Monk, CMW Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS The restless ocean vents its power in a huge, Howard Opp, CEWS curling wave in our cover picture. Hopefully, Robert Allis, CEWS: Affiliate Chapter Director the scene will provide a welcome respite from thoughts of the summer's heat for Thomas Imai, CMW: Research and swimmers, beachgoers, and just plain specta­ Council Chairman tors alike! Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright ©1982 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

2 Horological Times/July 1982 Quality Clock Movements

# 450 # 580 Electronic Chime 25 . Quartz Insert Movement $4 • In Quantity # 600 1 or 2 @ $8.00-3 to 9 @ Complete W/Dial - Hands $7.00-10 to 24@ $5.50- 00 25 to 49 @ $5.25-50 to 99 $23. @ $4.75-100 @ $4.50- In Quantity 500@ $4.25. Precise timekeeping is now 2 3/8" x 2 13/16"lx 7/8" available for the clock in­ stallation and replacement Extreme accuracy is now available at very 1 1 or 2 @ $33.00 moderate cost for customers that demand 3 to 9 @ $29.00 markets. These units are ready to install quickly and precise time keeping. Quality features such 10 to 24@ $27.00 economically, Comes com­ as high quartz oscillation of 4.194304 MHz. 25to49@$25.00 Assures reliable time keeping as well as plete with brushed 50to99@$23.00. accuracy. The small dimensions are ideal for finished bezel-dial & hands. 1 or 2 @ $1 B.95 each all jobs. Fully warranted for one year. Available in 3"-33/e" 4" diam. 3 to 9@ $16.95 each ALMOST AS SMALL # 475 Tiny AS A ! Quartz # Quartz Insert Weighing only 1.25 • 650 1 Movement Only ounces. this Versatile 2 /e" Square-2l//' Diagonal This exciting new addition represents Movement will carry o the lowest priced electronic chime sweep second hand and movement on the market today. It will run for over one year on a single "AA" cell-only permit you to offer wall and mantle 9/ 16" thick this com­ at prices substantially lower than The same movement as used pact unit can be fit into similar models containing mechanical in the above insert complete. any type case or panel. A chime units. Full tone appreciation is Runs on AA Penlite Cells. Can single center nut enables be installed· .3 ways, friction, the movement to be easi­ $ 4. OO In Quantity achieved when fully mounted. fixing screw or case screws ly fixed to a dial. The hand setting knob, seconds 1 or2@$7.75-3to9 Only 23/e" diameter for easy setter, and battery com­ @ $6,75-10 to 24@ installation in wood, metal or 1 or 2@ 511 .95 each partmentare conv~nient­ 55.25-25 to 49 @ cerami cs. 3 to 9@ $10.95 each ly located on the back. $4.75-50 to 99 @ Plays either Westminster or Whittington Accurate to (±) 10 $4.50-100 @ $4.25 Melody. The volume of sound is {ldjustable. seconds per month& -500 @ $4.00.

#SOON Quartz # 575 # 100 Electric Insert Movement Pendulum Complete with Dial-Hands-Cord Quartz Striking Pendulum $8.00 In Quantity 8V." x 55/e" This new improved movement is half the thickness of the # 500 it $ 22. OO In Quantity replaces - still the same quartz accuracy & reli­ This versatile and extremely accurate ability with two times the movement with its beautiful chime tones would be a welcome addition to 3%" 4" 5%" tilt allowance. The any room. Can be used with or without $6.00 $6.25 $6.50 pendulum is available pendulum. Comes complete with hands in various lengths from and pendulum. 8" to 16". A clock movement ready to incor­ •Chimes on half hour-Counts on hour porate into a case of your own We will ship 12" unless •Accurate to ± 10 seconds per month design. A complete unit with dial specified. •Runs for 2 years on 'D' alkaline cell •Chimes can be silenced by pushing lever and hands, covered by glass for de­ 1 or2@ $13.50-3to 9@ 512.00-lOto 24@ •Dependable-Fully quaranteed for one year pendability and ease of installation. 610.00-25 to 49@ $9.25-50to 99@$8.25 Versatile because of a variety of -100@ $8.00. 1 or2@$27.00-3to9@$25.00-10@$22.00. . mounting technig_ues . PRICES INCLUDE HOUR. MINUTE. & SECOND HANDS - NUTS. HANGERS

e PLEASE INCLUDE $1.50 PER ORDER FOR SHIPPING AND HANDLING. WE WILL SHIP EITHER PARCEL POST OR U.P.S. • VISA OR MASTERCHARGE ACCEPTED - ADVISE CARD NUMBER AND EXPIRATION DATE. • 450-475-500 AVAILABLE IN REGULAR POST - FOR 5/16" SLAB OR LONG POST FOR%" SLAB. EASY MOUNTING TO DIAL WITH THREADED CENTER POST. • AVAILABLE IN CONTINUOUS OR STEP SECOND HAND. • WE ARE AS CLOSE AS YOUR PHONE OR MAIL BOX. FAST DELIVERY ASSURED FROM OUR LARGE INVENTORY.

P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164 NATIONAL WATS-ORDERS ONLY - 800-328-0205 MINNESOTA WATS-ORDERS ONLY - 800-392-0334 * Esslinger & Co. INQUIRIES-INFORMATION - (612) 452-7180 President's Message/Joe Crooks

In Appreciation And Recognition

t has been the most treasured honor in my career as a Directors for the wonderful support which they have given I watchmaker to have had the opportunity to serve as me in my two-year term. They have unselfishly donated many your President of the American Watchmakers Institute! hours of time, talent, and expertise to improve our profession. In my twelve years of association with the A WI, it has No nonprofit organization, such as AWi, can grow been very gratifying and rewarding to meet and become consistently without the services of a loyal, efficient Execu­ friends with the many talented, dedicated horologists who tive Secretary. Looking back on the history of AWi, there have make up the membership, the committees, the Board of been many times when Milt Stevens has pulled the organ­ Directors, and the many famous Past Presidents of this, the ization out of one catastrophe after another. His watchmaker's greatest organization for watch and in the world! experience, teaching ability, common sense , and just plain I am deeply humble for having been selected to serve as stubborn persuasion, when he felt he was right, have been President of the A WI. invaluable contributions to the success of A WI. Milt has Any successful organization is built around dedicated, helped many of AWI's Past Presidents to find the correct talented people. I cannot give enough praise to Milt Stevens, answers to specific problems. Mike Danner, Hal Herman, Maury Norrell, and their loyal Under Milt's leadership , AWI has grown from a small staffs for the professional and efficient manner in which they group of pioneering horologists, who sometimes had trouble conduct the daily business of the AWi, and its official pub­ meeting the monthly bills, to a powerful organization with a lication, Horological Times. half-million dollar budget, designed to provide valuable ser­ I want to thank the committees and the Board of (Continued on page 27)

• Machine • Large size flask- 2Y2" x 3" • Large Crucible • Spruce Base • Long Flask Tong • Burnout Oven (Furnace) • Large firing chamber - 8" wide, 9" deep, 4 Y2" high • Temperature range - 2000 ° F with 3 step input control • 4 Rows of heat coils on 3 sides of chamber • On-off pilot light • 115V - 12 Amp - 3 prong heavy duty cord • Overall measurements: 161/2" wide, 12" high, 13" deep • Casting Investment-4 lbs. •Wax Mandrel for designing in wax • Waxcarverforshapingandcarving •Wax for shaping and carving • Film-0-Wax- a wax lubricant • 10 Assorted Wax Rings • 3 Styles Wax Forming Wire "Get Started" •Yellow Casting Metals Jewelry Making Kit • Instruction book- "Handbook of Lost Wax and Investment Casting" Jewelry Making is a wonderful hobby for people of all ages and walks of life. In jewelry making, your imagination has no limits and the tools, Regular Price $374.95 supplies and equipment required are, In most cases, not very expensive. TK-130 SPECIAL $349.00 B. JAD OW & SONS, INC. Most everything you will need for malcing jewelry. An excellent gift for your 53 W. 23 St., New York, NY 10010 Available through Jewelry/ retired spouse, energetic children, handicapped person or ANYONE Supply Houses interested In occupying spare time in a meaningful way. - Dealer Inq u ir ies I n vited -

4 Horological Times/July 1982 PoRTESCAP® MARK v ~ ""' '" ULTRASONIC WATCH CLEANER

With its introduction twenty-five years ago, the Mark Vis ideal to use with all new plastic and other Mark Series watch cleaner quickly became the watch lubricants. New solid state triac-controlled "workhorse" of the . Renowned for their quality, variable speed dryer with automatic temperature dependability, and economical operation, over 21,000 control provides optimum performance. Mark V Mark Series machines were sold to jewelers and handles up to (12) twelve watch movements or one watchmakers. small clock. Mark V is guaranteed for one year. Because of a shift in , with emphasis See it now. Contact your local Portescap U.S. placed on timing equipment, the Mark Series was salesman for a free demonstration in your place at stopped, but not forgotten. Due to popular demand, no obligation. Easy payment terms and trade-in Portescap U.S. proudly reintroduces the new Mark V allowance available. ultrasonic watch cleaner. Portescap Mark V-A watch cleaning tradition Although completely redesigned to incorporate continued. the latest in technological advances, the Mark V uses the same popular size cups, baskets and thimbles as VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION before. 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, NY 11042 Mark V is still more than just a watch cleaner, (516) 437-8700 it's a complete system. Ultrasonic cleaning, spin­ drying (with or without heat), all perfectly done by one thermostatically controlled compact machine. And, 0 Portescap U.S. you clean without disassembling the watch movement. manufacturers of incabloc" and Vibrograf" Our Readers Write

Sensible Suggestions

This letter is in reference to Marshall Richmond's after quenching a couple of pieces, it does get warmer. When article, "Making Watch Case Springs," in the May 1982 issue I say cold water, I do not refer to ice water. The use of colors of the Horological Times. is the way I have been taught to identify hardness in drawing First, it is an excellent and useful article as most steel-a system that probably has been used for centuries and of his are. I'd like to see him go a bit further in depth, how­ was in use before instruments were developed for scientific ever. I suggest when heat treating water hardening steels, temperature controlled hardening and heat treating. do not use cold water and in fact always use a brine quench­ Mr. Niegel has my respect and by the suggestions ing solution. Just dump enough salt (I use some from the in his letter, obviously knows what he is talking about. water softner) to saturate it, and always warm it to about 150°F. This applies to the tempering stop bath as well. The Marshall F. Richmond, CMW same would apply to an oil quench bath-never cold but well above the ambient temperature. If at all possible, do not use a flame for the heating My thanks go to both Steven G. Conover, for his source but do use a furnace. The tempering can often be done article on the "Sessions Chime Movement" in the April 1982 in a kitchen bake oven and can be closely controlled. I use issue of Horological Times, and AWI for providing this forum. a heat-treating furnace for all of my hardening and tempering Mr. Conover's article came just at the right time for work. On occasion, to soften small parts for drilling, etc., me, as I have had a Sessions clock in the shop for a month I will use a flame and pack the section to be treated in cop­ and have tried everything to get-the racks to count properly. per or brass, or sometimes in filings. Some steels are air hard­ Just 20 minutes after reading the article, the clock was re­ ening and cannot be easily annealed if exposed to air, so you paired and on the test bench. must keep them covered while slowly cooling to room tem­ I agree with Reed Cristensen in "Readers Write" perature. also in the April 1982 issue, that membership with AWI is an investment and the Horological Times is a must for read­ Roy H. Niegel, CMC, CMW ing and re-reading. It has enough variety to keep anyone's Cupertino, California interest. I, for one, hope AWi continues to grow and expand. Writer's reply: A whole article could be devoted to tempering There is nothing like it anywhere else that I know of for the and heat treating steel, using sophisticated equipment such watch and . I have always received exactly what as heat-treating furnaces with a pyrometer and equipment I have needed upon request, and the service is speedy. for testing hardness. To use this equipment requires access Since I have taken the course in clock repair and to the manufacturer's specifications on any particular steel have found it more helpful than I had hoped, I would also such as water hardening, air hardening, or high speed. The time like to take this chance to say thank you for working so involved in using all this to make one case spring would prob­ hard in the behalf of others. Please keep up the good work. ably be more than is required to do the rest of the job. This is necessary in the manufacture of parts, but for repair, I have Robert C. Rogers, Jr. tried to relate the methods that I have used over the years Pasadena, Maryland successfully. I have also stated that although these methods UDJ3 work for me there are no doubt many methods that are better and even faster. To explain why I do not delve as deeply as suggested is because my articles are directed to repairmen who have to make these repairs with basic tools and limited If you have any ideas to share with the Horological time. Times staff, send your letters to: Mr. Niegel's suggestion on using a brine and an AWi Central ambient temperature is excellent, but I have always had a 3700 Harrison Avenue jar of tap water on my bench used for quenching. Since it Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 is there constantly, it remains at room temperature; however,

6 Horological Times/July 1982 P.O. Box 445, Tucker, Georgia 30084 Toll Free Numbers: Phone: (4041 938-0115 Atlanta In Georgia - 1-800-282-9220 Out of Georgia - 1 -800-241 -9081

$19.95 12 pc. Hart Bur Set

The popular small ones, slzes hardwood stand included.l-12. ~1li!iii~!ll~ll~ 1.05MM - 3MM 1

ITJ RING HOLDING -Jaws are hollowed out and curved to hold rings while filing or polishing. These are heavy duty pliers, 5\li' overall. No. 37-105-Shipping weight 3 oz. $ 9 . 9 5

(!] RING BENDING PLIERS-One jaw is curved and other concave for holding, straightening and bend· ing rings. Also for bending wires and strips and making bezels. These are heavy duty size, 61/¢"' overall, jaw width .l{6'. No. 37-109-Shipping weight 7 oz. $ 1 3 . 5 0

FABULUSTRE - For an extremely high finish on , and all metals - as well as on plastics. Greaseless - no residue - cleans up easily. No discoloration left on work. Comes in tear-away tubes for cleaner handling.

No. 52-461-Tube 'I• lb. $1.80 No. 52-462-Tube I lb. 3.60

@VIGOR HEAT SHIELD Protects components under direct 5000"F. flame! A new concept in . No longer necessary to set-up clumsy @SPAREX protective methods before soldering. No longer necessary A safe substitute for sulphuric acid. It is a granular dry acid to remove stones before soldering. Prevents Oxidation. compound specially made for picking, cleaing and removing Odorless-Non-toxic. Good for dozens of appl1cat1ons .. surface oxidation and scale from and silver. Non­ • Apply Heat Shield generously to area requiring protection llamma'ble. non-explosive. 2-1/2 lb. can makes one gallon of • Complete all soldering welding or brazing procedures solution. • Wash off with water. S0-510-2-1/21b. can $3.50 3/b. *S0·540-6oz. Aerosol Can $ 5. 2 5 IOoz.

@ VIGOR" STONE SET RING ENLARGER wtlh 4 Rollen BAnERN'S SELF PICKLING HARD SOLDERING Enlarges rings by rolling (white gold up to a full size •.. FLUX - Makes hard soldering as easy as soft yellow gold, silver, a.nd up to three sizes). Does soldering. A flux for use on gold, silver, platinum not weaken ring or loosen stones, used with any standard and other metals with high melting points. Pre­ steel mandrel. serves tempPr and color of metal. Adhesive quali­ RN-580 - Shipping Weight 3 /bs. ties of this liquid flux hold solder in place.

No. Size Ship. Wgt.

51-853 3 oz. 4 oz. $1. 7 5

$39.95 51-856 Pint I lb. 3 oz. 4 . 9 0

51-857 Quart 2 lb. 6 oz. 7 . 5 0

FREIGHT AND POSTAGE ARE NOT INCLUDED CALL EWING FOR QUALITY ANO PRICE Technically· WATCHES © 1982 By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

1982 The Modern Watchmaker's Lathe © Part XII

ne of the most important tailstocks of the jewel or item so the proper depth depth of cut. This screw works against Omade for the watchmaker's lathe hole can be cut. the end of the depthing bar which is is the swing tailstock (sometimes called Figure 2 shows a view of the shown at F. The locking screw for the jeweling caliper or jeweling rest). back side of the Webster-Whitcomb depthing screw is shown at G. Another The idea of the swing tailstock jeweling rest in order that its design can depthing screw is shown at H. This screw is credited to Edward Howard by N.B. be better understood by the reader. can be used as a lead screw so the cutter Sherwood in his book entitled Watch View A, Figure 2 shows the retaining can be gradually advanced into the work and Chronometer Jeweling, which was device for the end of the lead screw. as the hole is being bored for the article published in 1887. The idea was con­ This device can be turned slightly to being made. ceived about 1860. The development release the end of the lead screw. This Figure 5 shows a top view of the of this device made it possible to bore allows the lead screw to be completely attachment which allows a better view of any number of holes to a precise diameter removed from the tailstock. With the the caliper. The two gauge fingers of the and depth which was an important step lead screw detached, the swing section caliper that gauge the diameter of the in making interchangeable parts for of the tailstock can be swung out of the article are shown at A in Figure 5. NOTE: watches. This device is mainly used for way so the handrest can be used when Some jeweling rests have three gauge setting bezel jewels, but it is also used necessary. fingers. This allows for a third precision for boring holes in watch plates, main­ Figure 3 shows a Webster­ operation which makes the attachment spring barrels, and wheels, and in turning Whitcom b jeweling rest that has been more versatile. The two screws used to shoulders and diameters of jewel settings. swung out of the way so the handrest advance the gauge fingers are shown at Figure 1 shows a Webster­ can be used. This allows the watchmaker B. The depthing bar, which gauges the Whitcomb swing tailstock (jeweling rest). to do hand operations without having thickness of an item, is shown at C. View A shows the base of the attachment. to remove the jeweling rest from the bed This depthing bar gauge slides in a slot The curved arm B is solid and is part of of the lathe. in the swing arm and can be completely the base. The tailstock spindle shown at C A close-up view of the stop removed at any time. The end of this goes through the swing arm D of the arrangement is shown in Figure 4. View gauge, which the stop screw works attachment. The swing arm pivots on the A shows the tailstock spindle. The against, is shown at D, Figure 5. base at point "a" and is controlled by tailstock spindle clamp is shown at B. Figure 6 shows a close-up lead screw E. The crank of the lead This clamp is tightened onto the spindle of the caliper. Finger A has been set so screw is shown at F. View G shows the with clamp screw C. The guide pin for it is against the jaw of the swing arm stop arrangement for the tailstock spindle. the spindle clamp is shown at D. This when the cutter is centered with the lathe View H shows the box that houses the guide pin is placed solidly in the swing center. Once this has been done, this gauge fingers that are used to gauge the arm of the attachment and works in a particular gauge finger is not moved diameter of the jewel or article in order slot in the end of the clamp which guides again until it is set up for another cutter. to determine the diameter that the hole the tailstock spindle in a longitudinal Figure 7 shows the swing arm is to be bored. This is sometimes called direction, preventing the spindle from opened to receive the jewel being set. the caliper. View \ shows the depthing having any axial motion. View E shows Never move the gauge finger to obtain bar which is used to gauge the thickness the micrometer screw which sets the space for the jewel.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

8 Horological Times/July 1982 Technically WATCHES

Figure 8, View A shows the jewel; likewise, if the distance between Figure 8 depthing bar resting on top of the jewel the jewel and the cutter is greater than the to gauge its thickness in order that a hole distance between the cutter and Point 0, of the proper depth can be bored. View the hole cut by the cutter will be too B, Figure 8 shows the jaw of the swing small for the jewel. arm. The gauge finger is shown at C. The Figure 10 shows a Moseley jewel is shown between the jaw of the swing tailstock. View A shows the base swing arm and the gauge finger. of the attachment. The swing arm is To better understand the prin­ shown at B . The curved stationary ciple of the swing tailstock, refer to arm which is attached to the base is Figure 9. View A shows the base of the shown at C. The spindle is shown at D. tailstock. Point 0 is the pivot point of View E shows the stop device for the the swing arm of the tailstock. View B spindle, and View F shows the locking shows the cutter as it would be in the end bolt for the spindle. The caliper is shown Figure 9 of the tailstock spindle. View C shows at G. the jaw of the swing arm. View D shows Figure 11 shows the back the gauge finger, and View E shows a side of the Moseley attachment. View jewel placed between the jaw and the A shows the locking cam which works G F finger. The principle of operation is based in the locking bolt, causing the atta,:hment I I on the angle between center line F of to be locked to the lathe bed. View B the stationary arm and the center line shows the lead screw which controls the D G of the swing arm and the linear dis­ swing arm of the attachment. Screws c I I tances between point 0 and the cutter, C of the caliper control the two gauge -J.• and between the cutter and the jewel. fingers. View D shows the locking lever The position of the cutter must be exactly for the spindle of the attachment. \ l halfway between Point 0 and the jewel Figure 12 shows a close-up E held between the jaw and gauge finger view of the Moseley attachment which \ of the attachment. If the leading edge gives a good view of the caliper. View A of the cutter is first brought exactly shows the jaw of the swing arm. View on center with the lathe spindle by B shows the two adjustable gauge fingers \ I adjusting one of the gauge fingers against which are controlled by the two screws the jaw of the swing arm and then the jaw shown at C. View D shows the lead screw on the swing arm is opened enough to that controls the swing arm. accommodate the jewel, the hole made One of the most important by the cutter will be the exact size for the swing tailstocks ever made is the one jewel. If the distance between the jewel made by W.D. Clement of Waltham, B ~ and the cutter is less than the distance Massachusetts. The attachment is shown between the cutter and point 0, the hole in Figure 13. This illustration is from the \ I cut by the cutter will be too large for the Clement Catalog. In addition to being I I Figure 4 Figure 6 \ I F /

Figur e 5 F l ~ur e 7 Figure10

July 1982/Horological Times 9 used for setting jewels, this attachment for special jobs. The lead screws on the bed of the lathe is shown at C. can also be used as a slide rest, to round Clement tailstock can be easily detached Figure 1 7 shows a close-up up wheels, to polish rusty pinions, for so the tailstock can be operated without view of the caliper section of the tail­ milling and profiling, for pivot polishing the screw. stock. View A shows the jaw of the and other important operations. Not Another fine swing tailstock is swing arm. The three gauge fingers are only does this attachment have a microm­ shown in Figure 14. This tailstock has shown in Views 1, 2, and 3. Screws B, eter screw cross feed for the swing recently been donated to the American C, and D control these gauge fingers. arm, but it also has a micrometer screw Watchmakers Institute Museum. There Each gauge finger is used for a different feed for the spindle. The Clement at­ is no name on the attachment to identify operation. There should be a separate tachment is made stronger and more its maker. After hours of research, no tailstock spindle available for use with sturdy than the other swing tailstocks. maker could be established. The base each gauge finger setting. Each spindle A later model of this tailstock has a of the attachment shown at A, Figure 14 needs an individual cutter or tool for a larger chuck holding spindle. This allows fits a Moseley lathe bed. The stop device specific operation. Each tailstock spindle cutters to be chucked in the spindle rather shown in View B is very precisely made. should have its own stop device. than to have them fit in the tapered Figure 15 shows a close-up Continued next month. ;_ _;cr13 hole as in the older style of spindle. view of the stop device. View A shows The Clement swing tailstock can be a tailstock spindle clamp which is tight­ F igure 14 swiveled on its base to any angle. The ened to the spindle with screw B. The cutters are held in a special holder which guide pin for the clamp is shown at C. has a taper to fit the tapered hole in The micrometer depthing screw is shown the tailstock spindle. The cutter holder at D. This screw is designed like the holds two cutters that can be brought into spindle of a micrometer. The screw has play alternately. One of the cutters is 20 threads per centimeter. One revolu­ an inside cutter and the other is an out­ tion of the thimble E equals O.SOmm. side cutter. The Clement swing tailstock The thimble is graduated in 0.1 mm in­ has three gauge fingers. It is recommended crements. that finger Number One be used when Figure 16 shows a view of the r setting jewels in settings or watch plates. back side of the attachment. The lead Finger Number Two should be used when screw for control of the swing arm is - boring holes in plates for the jewel shown at A. The caliper is shown at B, setting. Finger Number Three is used and the lever to lock the tailstock to the Figure15

Fi11ure 11 Figure12

A

Figure 1 3 Figure 16

Figure17

10 Horological Times/July 1982 Play to Ylin. Maxell means business in the battery replacement game.

Maxell batteries give you the tools to win in the state electrolyte battery. It makes leaks impossible profitable battery replacement business. We manufac­ because there's nothing to leak. ture a thoroughly reliable, professional line of watch Maxell is committed to making your business batteries. Our quality is no secret. We are a principal prosper. We package watch batteries in strips for your source of batteries for many of the world's finest watches. convenience. We actively promote you, the watch­ They don't take chances with their business. Neither maker, as the only person qualified to change a watch should you. battery. Maxell specializes in small battery technology. Maxell gives you the products you need, the sup­ Maxell lithium and silver oxide micro-cells are not step­ port you must have, and fair business practices you children. They're our primary concern. And our can rely on. We take the watch battery replacement research and development makes sure the coming game very seriously. And we play to win . Call us for the generations of watches you'll sell will have equally names of the Maxell battery distributors in your area. advanced batteries inside. You'll soon see our solid- maxell® BATIERY PRODUCTS DIVISION Maxell Corporation of America 60 Oxford Drive Moonachie, N.J. 07074 (201) 440-8020 Questions an~ - ~~swers/ Henry B. Fried

A Schwarzwald Perhaps?

Henry 8. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

I have been subscribing to the cated mathematics, it is still possible to Q A WI monthly publication for 14 determine fairly closely the correct years and have found your column to measurements for your and be very informative. barrel. You have the height inside the At this time I would appreciate barrel. Is this the height minus the any information you might have on the barrel cover? Assuming that the barrel clock of which I am enclosing a photo. overall is 2.60mm and subtracting the As you will notice, it is not in its original thickness of the cover to be 0.15mm, state. Is there a possibility of a manufac­ then the available height inside the barrel turer that could supply the replacement is 2.45mm. To allow some freedom of the original mechanisms? of the mainspring coiling and uncoiling Your attention to this matter within the barrel, allow 0. 05 to 0.1 Omm. will be greatly appreciated. Keep up the Then you can chose a mainspring between superior information. 2.40 and 2.35mm in width. The thickness of your main­ Robert S. Spotts spring can be ascertained fairly closely Boyertown, Pennsylvania by fallowing this logical path. The theoretical ideal of a mainspring's thick­ ness and length is that when fully wound, Thank you for those kind remarks the coiled spring will occupy an area A about my section of A WJ's ser- exactly one half that inside the barrel vices. and thus will be in an area just inside I have just returned from a week­ that occupied by the fully uncoiled spring. end lecture to the Cleveland NA WCC Now, the uncoiled spring generally has meeting where I saw a clock almost twelve turns (12). If, as most often exactly as yours on one of the MART is the case, the spring can be wound tables. I have seen some others like those six turns to wind it up tightly, then before and owned one quite a bit larger First, let me thank you for your the fully wound spring occupying the and automated with music as well. personal help in the past. Without inner half area now has 18 coils. Should For the most part these are QA WI and you, I'd have been in a theoretical spring of the correct thick­ usually Schwarzwald made clocks with trouble. Now to a new problem. ness and length be so fitted into a barrel, cuckoo clock mechanism. When the lower I have in for repairs an Agassiz, it would have the 12 it started out with doors are available as yours appear to serial number 24163, stem wind, lever unwound and the 18 coils fully wound, be, a trumpeter appears. Some have both. set, 16 lignes, 15 jewel, single roller leaving no more room in the barrel. The very elaborate, very large, automated, hunting movement needing. a mainspring. This would then total 30 turns. If we musical clocks of this nature were almost The spring I removed, broken near the divide the distance in millimeters from always the result of an individual wood arbor, measures 2.35 mm wide, 0.2lmm the outside of the barrel arbor (yours) carver. Jn fact some were immigrants from thick, and 18 in. long. TheT-endisstamped to the inside of the barrel wall, we the Schwarzwald area who settled in "WW Co.," obviously not original. get one half of 14.00mm, which equals America. In virtually all cases, the mech­ The barrel measures 14mm inside 7.00mm, from which we must subtract anism was German factory-produced, but diameter. The barrel depth is 2.60mm. The half the diameter of your barrel arbor the plates were the type resembling the arbor diameter is 4.65 mm. What main­ (4.65) which equals 2.33, leaving4.67mm, Connecticut brass stamped plate clock spring do I order, and how much lati­ the distance or combined thickness of movements. These date from the 1880's. tude can I reasonably allow my sup­ 30 coils of tightly packed mainspring. I can render the opinion that the original plier in selecting a replacement? 4.67 .;- 30 = 0.155 in thickness. In your movement is not available. Perhaps ad­ case, you may use a 0.16mm thick vertising for one with specific measure­ Philip Stray er mainspring. Now having the width and ments may, by pure chance, supply Boulder Creek, California thickness, how do we arrive at the length? you with one that will fit. I see that The outside diameter of the there are no winding holes in the dial unwound mainspring coil against the which makes the acceptance of many O[ course, genuine for inside barrel wall is 14.00mm. That one types of movements much e.asier. My your Agassiz repair are unavailable. coil's length is 14.00 x 3.1416 = 44mm. guess however, is that you will not find A To determine the proper measure­ (Continued on page 2 7) a genuine replacement. ments, and, without going into compli-

12 Horological Times/July 1982 SMALL WONDER!

The Timepower SIX-PAK ... with Eveready* batteries. It's the most popular watch battery stocking system going. Here's why:

e SPEEDS UP BATTERY JOBS. You always find the cell you want faster, because your entire stock is in one compact tray, right on your bench.

e SIMPLIFIES ORDERING STOCK. Ordering is easier and more accurate because you always see the complete stock at a glance. You're less likely to run out. •FRESHER STOCK. Borel high volume assures fresher stock. And, the six-pak stocking system assures first-in first-out usage. No getting old and new stock mixed to­ gether. •MORE FUN. Slide pak open ... remove cell ... slide pak closed. And, no trash to dispose of.

TIMEPOWER SIX.PAK INVENTORY TRA VS Small velvet tray (Illustrated) stores up to 343 batteries. Fits easily into bench drawer. Size: 6314" x 71/4". Large velvet tray stores up to 576 batteries, with space for bat'tery tester, tweezers and case opener. Size 143/4" x 81/4 ".

Best of all, you don't pay a premium for all these benefits. Day in, day out, Borel EVEREADY Battery prices are among the lowest you'll find. To learn the toll-free number of the Borel office nearest you, call our central order desk: * "Eveready" is a registered trade mark 1·800·821 ·5686 of Union Carbide Corp. In Missouri 1-800-892-5818

BOREL GROUP 111 o Grand Avenue Kansas City, Mo. 64106 .Jlttrel Distribution Centers in · .Jlttrel Cleveland • Kansas City • Los Angeles • Miami • Oakland Curin_g Catastrophic Wear In_ Modern_ German_ Movemen_ts

he problem to be dealt with here vaguely like the surface of the moon or T is all too familiar to most clock a crude dental burr. (See Figures 2 and 3. repairmen these days. A customer brings Both are from the same movement.) The in a newer clock complaining that it steel has ridges, valleys, cracks, and "only chimes for two days," or strikes fissures, not running around the pivots for two days, or doesn't run at all. The like we see in worn-out American 8-day customer explains that he bought it movements, but across them. The many "about three years ago ," and suggests sharp cutting edges thus created are un­ f I that " it probably needs a little oil." doubtedly responsible for the wear. With forboding in his heart, the repair­ I have tried to polish these v man looks in the back of the case. What pivots by filing and burnishing. The sur­ By David G. Arnold, CMC, CMBH I he sees, in grt:ater or lesse r degree, is face looks okay, but if you reverse the pictured in Figure 1. Catastrophic wear lathe and burnish the surface, you will on the wheels next to the barrels (here­ notice that the surface comes off in method, while not universally applicable, after called the second wheels). One can fine flakes. I have tried using oilstone works very well on soft modern German see more wear than has occurred in many and diamantine, and even with graded arbors, and only adds about 15 minutes German movements that have run more diamond on copper laps, and the result to the rebushingjob, if al! 6 second wheel or less continuously for over fifty years. can be seen in Figure 4. The pivot may pivots are improved. Why this happens and how to correc t the appear reasonably bright and smooth, You will need a watchmaker's problem on a long term basis are my sub­ but under 1 Ox magnification, the defects lathe (or equivalent), with a centered ject. remain, and under 1 OOx , they are unmis­ tailstock, a No. 48 miniature drill rod In many cases, the problem lies takable. I have ev en polished all the way (0.077 in.), a No. 48 drill (0.076 in.), in the material used in the arbors and through pivots and confirmed that the and a miniature center drill, No. 1 or thus in the pivots. When the movement is problem exists, not just at the surface smaller. You will need some way of hold­ dismantled, the pivot invariably looks or in any , but indeed all the way ing the center drill and No. 48 drill in the through the steel. tailstock. (A LA 736 collet adaptor will The only solution which pro­ do the job if your tailstock isn't collet vides a lasting cure for this underlying holding.) These materials are available material problem is repivoting. The move­ from Campbell Tools Co. , 2100 Selma ment used for this article is a perfect Rd., Springfield, OH 45505, and from example of why this procedure is neces­ other supply houses. sary. Manufactured in 1963 (as indicated The original pivots on many of from a marking in the back of the case), these movements are 0.078 in. in dia­ this movement has been through three meter. After truing and polishing the other shops before it came to mine. Originally someone used a center punch Figure3 • to try to stern the tide of wear. After that had failed , which surely didn't take Figure 1 . Appearance before repa ir long, someone put KWM bushings in every hole but the flys, and did a good job of centering them as well. But time flies as we say, and so did the brass. For the next repair, the movement received Bergeon bushings, but again to no avail. When the pivot appears as shown in Figures 2 or 3, it is an exercise in futility to bush without taking care of the pivot. This

Figur e 2 . Appearanc e of pivots untouc hed

View of inside plate.

14 Horological Times/July 1982 0.077 in. drill rod, it may end up 2 or pivot when you are done. If your collet large for the plugs. Don't push too hard 3 thousandths smaller than the original. in the proper size for the arbor is not on the drill - let it do the work. With Since we are bushing the holes due to satisfactory, try holding the pivot in a the arbor still in the headstock. insert wear, the loss of diameter is insignifi­ collet and support the other end in a the tapered end of a into the hole. cant when offset by the availability of steady rest. See Figure 6. Sometimes Lightly tap the plug home into the hole a drill and drill rod which provide a this will enable you to get it running true. with a small brass while rotating 0.001 in. press fit without modification. and is the easiest way 1 know to do thc: the headstock by hand to insure that the First chuck up the drill rod in front pivot on the chime second wheel. plug is going in straight. Many light a properly fitted collet (No. 2 0) in the Once the pivot is running true, taps are preferable to a few heavy blows. headstock of the lathe with about 0.200 cut off the old pivot flush to the shoulder Continue tapping until the plug is all the in. protruding. Square up the end with a with a hand graver. Be careful not to cut way to the bottom of the hole. This will graver. Then cut a slight taper about the shoulder or you will increase the end­ be indicated by a change in the sound of 0.050 in. long on the end, reducing its shake of the wheel between the plates. the ham mer on the plug. See Figure 1 O. diameter by about 0.003 in. This pro­ See Figure 7. Chuck up the center drill Cut off the excess pivot 0.110 in. from vides a slight "lead" on the plug to help in the tailstock and bring it up to tht: end the shoulder of the arbor. A gauge made it align properly in the hole to be drilled of the arbor. Make sure it aligns with the of thin brass stock 0.110 in. wide, held in the arbor. Advance the stock through circles left from cutting off the pivot, against the shoulder, will provide a mc:ans the headstock so it protrudes about 5 /8 and if it is properly centered, bring it of checking the length while trimming. in. and cut off the plug about 0.200 in. to bear against the end of the arbor. without stopping the lathe. in front of the collet. The cut-off plug With the lathe running, moderate pressure Once the length is set, round the will measure about 1cm in length. Repeat on the tailstock spindle will cause the end with a graver without reducing the the tapering operation on the protruding drill to start cutting. Don't drill too deep! length. Usuctlly the rough pivot has been end still in the headstock, advance, and The purpose is to cut a pilot that will slightly distorted by the hammering of cut off as before. Don't bother making make the twist drill follow a perfectly the plug. Thus, I take a light cut with a the measurements exact since these centered path. See Figure 8. graver to true up the pivot before I dimensions are only a guide. As you can Next, substitute the No. 48 attempt to polish it. This usually requires see from Figure 5, there is considerable drill for the center drill. I use a cobalt the removal of less than 0.001 in., so variation in my plugs and they work drill, which is not mandatory, but I have use a very light touch. The pivot now on just fine. The idea is to end up with a found it to cut a more perfectly-sized the arbor is slightly longer than the orig- pile of plugs with a small taper on one hole for a much longer period of time Figure 7. Pivot cut off with center­ end and a square end on the other. than either high-speed or carbon drills. drill in position. While I'm at it, I make 40 or 50 of them Drill into the arbor at least 1-1 /2 times so that when I receive another of these the length of the original pivot. I general­ movements that needs repivoting, 1 ly approximate about twice the length don't have to stop each time to make of the original since the depth is not plugs. critical, and I would prefer to have more Chuck the wheel up in a proper­ than enough material in the arbor than ly fitting collet. If the old pivot doesn't not enough. See Figure 9. run true, try rotating the wheel in a slight­ As you are drilling, check to ly loosened collet, retighten, and check see that there is an equal stream of small it again. For this method to work proper­ chips emerging from both flutes of the ly, the old pivot must run perfectly true, drill. If not, one of the cutting edges is or you will end up with an off-center not sharp and the hole will become too

Figure 4. Original pivot after polishing. Note small defects remain. Figure 5. Plugs Figure 8. Centerdrilling

Figure 6 shows set-up with steady rest.

July 1982/Horological Times 15 inal, which eliminates tunneling in the should see a smooth, workhardened, only to eliminate the catastrophic wear new bushing if a full plate thickness bright pivot that is free of any defects. which occurs on the most heavily loaded bushing is used. See Figure 11. pivots. Most of the smaller pivots polish I finish the pivot with a burn­ Fit new bushings to the pivots fairly well. isher grained crosswise with No. 180 as usual. Figures 12 and 13 show the There is an obvious economic grit paper. This may sound coarse to finished product from the backplate. barrier to doing all the upgrading these some people, but with a thin film of Some people may argue that the movements could use, but I feel this cutting oil applied, it cuts just enough to pivots should be hardened and tempered, method will, with periodic oiling, provide smooth the pivot. Keep the burnisher and if we are re pivoting the second wheels, I 0 to 15 years between overhauls as moving forward and backward on the we should repivot the third and fourth opposed to the 3 to 5 years that is the pivot with the lathe rotating quite rapidly, wheels etc. Occasionally I have repivoted rule today. Aiding in selling an expensive and you will see the surface of the pivot the third wheel strike rear where the job to the customer is the fact that they brighten. Rotate the burnisher over the strike star wheel bears, and the center are getting a product that can be expected rounded end of the pivot and once it shaft rear which is also heavily loaded to provide better service than it ever has brightens, remove the burnisher. Clean by the mainspring, when the steel had before. off the pivot with a piece of pithwood been defective. But my purpose is not to and check the pivot with a loupe. You make these movements run forever, but

Figure 10. Rough plug driven home. Figure 12. Appearance of finished job.

Figure 11 . Polished , f i nished pivot. Figure 13

IF YOU'RE READING HOROLOGICAL TIMES, YOU SHOULD BE USING PM PRODUCTS Tools & Hardware HAVING Clock Movements For Precision Industries U rgos/Hermle/ Jauch • Watch Material Of TECHNICAL Quartz Battery• Movements • All Types Complete KWM Line Everything Clock Part•s Of Every PROBLEMS? Jn Time Description

*NEW Trade Price List Available For Catalog 176 Request Copy From Your Distributor ~ ---~---~~,~~---~~~------IF IT'S A CLOCK OR I P. Mereminsky Co. WATCH ITEM ... TELL I P.O . Box 104, Brooklyn, NY 11231 AWi HOTLINE 212 875 2505 YOUR DEALER TO I ( > . "GET IT FROM PMI" I Serving The Clock & Watch · I Industry For Over 40 Years (513) 661-4636

16 Horological Times/July 1982 AMERICAN CLOCKS At Auction in Detroit The Dr. Sidney Adler Collection of over 200 American Clocks including tall case, bracket, wall, shelf, carriage, calendar, steeple, banjo and lyre clocks by such makers as A. Willard Jr., Eli Terry Jr., A.E. Caldwell, W. Cum­ mens, W. Gilbert, Waterbury, Ithaca, Sessions, Chauncey Jerome, Seth Lemuel Cl~rris girandole banjo clock and A . Willard Jr. Lyre banjo Birge and Fuller wagon spring, twin steeple, 8-day Thomas, Riley Whiting and more. Saturday, July 17 at 11:00 A.M. Sunday, July 18 at Noon Preview exhibition: July 9-16, 10:00 A.M. - 5:00 P.M. Catalogues available $7 .00, postpaid $8 .00

409 East Jefferson, Detroit, Michigan 48226 (Across from the Renaissance Center) 313-963-6255 Lawrence DuMouchelle Ernest J. DuMouchelle Joan Walker Auctioneers and Appraisers in Michigan and Ohio Eli Terry Pillar and Scroll A. Willard Jr. banjo & Eli Terry Jr. banjo Riley Whiting Transition clock llLICVAllCllV!dJ For The IHloroloqist ©1982

n last month's article, tests with the c~ll in t~e mo~e­ I ment were examined. This month we will continue with tests made on the movement with the power cell removed. For our purposes we will consider Test No. 4 next. By Gerald G. Jaeger , CMW This test is made with the battery removed from the move­ (All Rights reserved by the author) ment. We will consider the recommendation of the techni­ cal bulletin first, then consider some alternatives. Test No. 4 column 2 directs that the selector be positioned on the DCV selection over l .SV, yet close to it, will suffice. Test No. lOK Q selection in the resistance selection area. Column 3 2a column 3 tells us to reduce the applied voltage to 1.35V. shows that a 3.40 to 4.30KD (3,400 to 4,300KQ) will be Te~t No. 2a, column 4 shows we are measuring the lower indicated on the ohms readout. Column 4 indicates reading working voltage limit. The movement should function at of the actual resistance of the coil. Column 5 designates that 1.35V. This test indicates the step motor, the train, and other the VOM .used in the preparation of the technical bulletin mechanical portions of the watch are free from excess friction had a 2V output when set on the 1OK it selection. You may or drag. If the movement functions at 1.35V, it is reasonable recall from our previous meter study, that whenever the to expect better performance at 1.5 SY. The ~ in column 3 VOM selector rests on any of the resistance selections, the of Test 2a indicates that this test is to be made at a voltage internal batteries of the meter provide a voltage. Application equal to or less than l.35V. Some movements are constructed of the meter probes to the device being measured applies a to allow visual inspection of the step motor to see if it is voltage to the device. The amount of electron flow through stepping. Others may require the second hand to be fit to the the device being measured translates to a resistance value movement then observation would confirm proper operation. on the ohms readout display of the VOM. You will note A small rn'irror placed faceup under the movement will assist Test No. 4, Figure 1, View B requires the same application in this visual observation. of the meter probes as did Test No. 3, Figure 1, View A. Test No. 2b, as indicated in column 4, is a current­ The difference is that in Test No. 4, Figure 1, View B, the consumption test. Again an auxiliary power source of l .SV cell is not in the movement. Our previous study instructed must be used. Test 2b, column 2 instructs that the selector that resistance cannot be measured when other current is be set on 10 µ. A in the amperage selection area. Many meters present in the circuit. There is no output from the IC to the will not have a 0-10 µ. A selection area. Use the lowest µ. A coil, so with the selector resting on a resistance selection, selection your meter permits. As previous study indicated, the actual resistance of the coil is being measured. In Test a low µ A setting on the meter is advantageous since many No. 3, Figure 1, View A, we are measuring whether or not of the new stepmotor watches are extremely lowconsuming. an output from the IC to the coil is present. The selector was With the meter and power supply properly set up, apply the resting on a DCV selection or possibly on an amperage selection, meter probes as indicated in Figure 1, View B. The - (nega­ as previously explained. Either setting would, with proper tive) probe to the (-) cell strap of the movement and the interpretation, indicate whether or not the IC were functioning +(positive) probe to the ( +) portion of the movement. properly. Test No. 2b, column 3 indicates that on movement Again, refer to Test No. 4 where column 2 indicates Caliber 965.002, < 0.8 µA (equal to or less than 0.8 µ A) that we use the 1 OK selection. The meter's ohm selections should register on-the meter readout. On movement Caliber might enable us to use other value selections to measure this 965.102, ~ 2.2 µA should register on the meter readout. coil. A meter with RX 100, RX 1K, or other selections may In either case, should the consumption be less than stated suffice so long as the readout is accomplished in the mid to (0.8 or 2.2 µ A), this is good. The ~ indicates we may be upper portion of the readout. under the stated consumption. When under the stated con­ Some manufacturers instruct that this coil test be sumption, a longer cell life can be expected. There is no a continuity test rather than a value test. This gets somewhat malfunction if slightly under, so long as the movement is involved in its explanation as it employs, by their direction, functioning, and the motor is stepping. When slightly over the an auxiliary power supply unit. When measuring coil stated consumption, we can expect less than stated or adver­ resistance, it is the feeling of many field watchmakers that so tised cell life. The consumption of similar caliber movements, long as we neither record infinity (open coil) or 0 resistance even from the same batch or run, will seldom be identical. (shorted coil) the coil is probably good. My experience has found this to be a reasonable conclusion. If the step motor We note in Test 2b, column 3, that even though the functions, the coil, in all probability, is good. This theory two movements are from the same family of movements, leaves some room for dissent, since coil value definitely relates their consumption is radically different. Let's explore this to current flow and battery life. Following stated values in seeming contradiction. Refer to Test No. 3, column 4. You technical guides is the wiser route to take. The other method will note Caliber 96 5 .002 steps once every 10 seconds. This would seem to be satisfactory if we were to have a movement movement would probably be a very thin movement, housed for which a technical bulletin was not available. in a slim case, not employing a second hand. The once-every­ Test No. 2 is actually a three-phase test. Note that ten-second impulse would eliminate the functional use of a each of these tests is conducted with the battery removed second hand. Caliber 965.102 would be encased to allow the from the watch module. This method demands a different use of a second hand as the motor steps once every second. approach. These tests all require an auxiliary power supply The stepmotor movement is a very low-consuming similar to the devices discussed in the May issue of Horological movement. Even so, most of the current consumed in all Times. Test No. 2a would preferably require this power stepmotor watches is consumed during the energizing of the supply to be variable, or at least fixed at l .35V. Test No. 2a, coil which sets up the magnetic field to drive the step motor. column 2 indicates the meter selector to be set on the 2VOC In most cases up to 70% of current consumption occurs at selection. If the meter does not have a 2VDC selection, any this time. You can readily see the current saving in a motor

18Horological 1Ymes/July 1982 Figure la

Cal. ESA 965.

COL. 1 COL. 2 COL.3 COL.4 COL. 5

Position Setting of apparatus Measurement Test Remarks

Test No. 1 2V 1.55 v Battery voltage Measurement with battery

Ai ;i> 10 kf?/ V

2a 2V .;;; 1,35 v Lower working-voltage limit Test No. 2 Cal. 965.002 Cal. 965.102 Measurement without 2b 10µA Consumption of movement < o,aµA < 2,2µ A battery, with powar-9upply unit Clearly below current Function of stop lever, stem consumption as in normal 2c 10µA 'in handsetting position operation

Impulses at output of Test No. 3 1 v Hand of the measuring integrated circu It Ri;;.10kf2/V instrument oscillates+ and - Measurement with controlled battery Cel. 965.002 Cal. 965.102 1 par 10 s. 1par10s. 1'Supply 0,2 V, without Test No. 4 3,4o - 4,3o kn Condition of coil 10 kfl 'battery --- - Figure 1 which steps once every ten seconds as opposed to one which coil. The validity of this method rests on the premise that steps once each second. Consider too the consumption reduc­ so long as there is not a break or open in the coil, it will be tion when a motor steps only once each 30 seconds or once of the correct value. Even though I have found this premise each minute. to be reasonable, relative to the type coil used in step motor Many of the newer watches employ yet another watches, I prefer to use the actual value in ohms method. method to reduce consumption. New developments in material In any case, it is a method we will eventually have to master. used to make permanent magnets in the step motor and All manufacturers recommend electrical tests. The refinement of the stator have allowed the period of impulse procedure may vary somewhat from one to another. Even so, to be greatly reduced. In many movements the duration which their tests really prove the same things. Just as all stepmotor the coil is energized is approximately 10 milliseconds. There watches are basically alike, so too are the tests quite similar. are movements now on the market which have reduced this It is up to us to be able to analyze what the test is expected to time to under 4 milliseconds per step. prove or disprove and to be able to manipulate our equipment Test 2c, column 2 instructs the selector rest on the to make this determination correctly. 10 µ A selection. Column 4 indicates this is a test of the In the May issue of the Horological Times, we men­ function of the stop lever. For this test, the stem would tioned two Seiko bulletins. They deal with general repair have to be in the hand-set position. Column 3 indicates the techniques applicable to stepmotor and solid-state watches. The current consumption should be well below that consumed, Watchmakers of Switzerland Information Center, Inc. of when the watch is in the normal run mode. We would now New York (WOSIC) also has a very good technical cbmmuni­ be measuring quiescent current as opposed to both quiescent cation available. It is their Technical Communication No. and working current. 39. It deals with the repair of ESA electronic calibers with There are many technical bulletins which employ quartz crystal resonators. Even though it deals specifically entirely different methods to test continuity of a circuit or with ESA calibers, this procedure generally applies to most to test a coil. When using a meter with an auxiliary power all watches of this type. It is available at no charge from supply and a capacitor, continuity can be checked by placing WOSIC upon request. the probes at both outlets of the device being tested. If the This article completes the basic study of the volt, meter is · set on a low µ A selection, the pointer will peg to the amp, and the ohm. The series will conclude with an the far right of the readout scale when there is continuity article by Ed Rice and myself on how to build an auxiliary in the circuit being tested. The same applies when testing a power supply for your meter, and its usage. uc:ID

July J 982/Horological Times 19 AWi Welcomes A New Board Of Directors The American Watchmakers Institute wishes to thank all the members who voted in the recent election. A tabulation of the ballots shows that you elected these five gentlemen to serve as your Board of Directors in the coming three fiscal years. Welcome and congratulations to those selected to serve in this important group.

Joseph G. Baier William Biederman James H. Broughton Phoenix, Arizona La Cross, Wisconsin Columbus, Ohio

Fred S. Burckhardt Marshall F. Richmond Fort Worth, Texas Milan, Indiana

OHIO VALLEY Has Your Address Changed? WATCHMAKING INSTITUTE Discover the rewarding career of Please Notify watchmaking and become a pro­ fessional craftsman. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE • • • 3700 Harrison Avenue Course study in the fine old watches Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 of yesteryear and the new quartz watches of today. Call or Write OHIO VALLEY GOODWILL INDUSTRIES Name ~~~----~---~---~ REHABILITATION CENTER Address _~---~------­ 10600 Springfield Pike, Cincinnati OH 45215 City, State & Zip Code ------(513) 771-4800

20 Horological Times/July 1982 The NEW TD·4 -.&­from The Instant Time Tester for Quartz Timepieces • Measures time for accuracy in just one second • Automatic frequency selection 32KH2 or 4.19 MHZ • Easy to read LED digital (one inch high) • Fully automatic, simply place timepiece on testing area • Flashing indicator facilitates optimum position on machine • Compact 7 % " x 4 % " x 3 % " for use on any small surface • High frequency quartz oscillator (5.256 MHZ) gives precise readings

For more than fifty years the industry leader

tr/ Manufacturing Company 577 Elm Street, Kearny, NJ 07032 Phone:201-991-5330 Telex:642078 EllanarKrny T1H11 P11c1~L1 IA111L

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Useful Tools And Materials For Jewelry Repair

ne of the more important and useful tools in jewelry and silver wire can be reduced to one or two sizes. For exam­ Orepair is the beading tool. It is used primarily for setting ple, when using a drawplate, a piece of Imm wire can be re­ or other stones where beads are used to hold the duced to I/ 1Omm in diameter or less. In reducing the diameter stone in securely. It also can be used to burnish small rivet it greatly increases the length. Drawplates are available in ends to make them look like a dome, so that when polished many ranges of sizes, but for general jewelry repair I have they make attractive, bright beads on the piece of jewelry. found that a range of 0.1 Omm to 2mm is satisfactory to meet Since these tools come in a set of ten with a handle, there is all my needs, and contains 20 graduated holes. To reduce a quite a variety of graduated sizes. The beading tool is made piece of round wire from 2mm to 0.Smm, it would require like a small punch with a concave end. It is made of tool drawing the wire through all twenty holes and annealing steel and hardened hard enough to burnish gold alloys, brass, several times. I would not attempt to guess how much length silver, , or any other metal that is of similar hard­ would be gained, but starting with a piece 6 in. long it would ness. Since the concave of the dome must burnish the metal be several feet long when reduced down to O.Smm. used to form a bead, it must be burnished smooth in order The drawplate holes are countersunk from one side to burnish the softer metal. With constant use these tools about one-third the thickness of the plate, and the hole become rough in the concave, but can be easily reburnished continues on through the plate at a slight taper which reduces by the use of a beading block. the size of the wire. The countersink on the one side of the Figure 1, View A shows the beading tool; View B plate makes it easier to thread the wire through the hole in is the tool mounted in a handle; and View C shows a beading starting. See Figure 1, View F, Point "a." The wire to be re­ block, top view and cutaway. The beading block is a small duced must be filed to a taper in order to go through the plate, block of tool steel about 2-3/8 in. long, 1-1/8 in. wide, and where it can be grasped with the draw tongs. Figure 1, View F, 5/8 in. thick, and is hardened as hard as a file . It contains ten point "b" shows the wire and point "c" shows the filed taper. rows of four beads, so with each size of beading tool there If you have a bench vise on a sturdy bench, the drawplate are four beads across the block that vary ever so slightly in can be clamped in the vise on either end (NOTE: the holes are size with the smallest starting on the left. With this tool, if drilled a good distance from each end to allow for a place to you start on the left and work to the right, the size of the bead clamp in a vise), and the tapered end of the wire fed through made with this tool can be enlarged slightly. the next smaller hole than it will easily go through. Push it If starting on the right and working to the left, the through as far as possible and then grasp it with the tongs size of the bead can be decreased. To reburnish the beading and pull it through. This is the first draw and will reduce the tool, the tool mounted in the handle is pushed into the tapered wire the difference in size of the two holes. depression in the block and twisted back and forth exerting This procedure can be repeated each time, moving great pressure. This can actually move the metal on the end of one hole smaller until the wire has been reduced to the dia­ the tool and reshape the bead depression as well as burnishing meter you need. Before starting, the wire must be dead soft it to a mirror finish. Never let any abrasive get in the beading or it will have to be annealed. After one or two reductions, block while shaping a tool or the finish on the beads will be it will most likely need to be annealed again because as you destroyed and it will not burnish to a fine finish. work the wire, it becomes hard and brittle. Keeping the wire Beading tools can be made on a watchmaker's lathe in a soft condition will avoid breaking as it is stretched and using water-hardening tool steel rod 2.58mm in diameter. reduced in diameter. To anneal gold, silver, brass, or nickel One end can be turned to a taper, starting about a quarter of silver, the wire should be heated cherry red with a torch, then an inch from the end and tapering it to the end size for the quenched or slow cooled, making it dead soft. size bead you desire. Then with a cone pivot graver (rounded Stretching, reducing, and shaping metals is one of the end) the concave depression can be cut in the end. Before basics you must master to become a good jewelry repair tempering, it can be burnished on the beading block and then person. The metals used in fine jewelry, such as gold, silver, tempered to a spring steel hardness, which still leaves it softer platinum, brass, or nickel silver are most workable when kept than the beading block so the concave end can be shaped and in a soft (not tempered) condition. The cost of tools such as burnished. In forming beads over stones, I find that when the the drawplate or beading block is minimal and they will edge of the concave depression makes contact with a hard usually last a lifetime. By using the drawplate, you can stock stone, it distorts the edge of the tool. For this reason when one or two sizes of wire and you will always have the size you setting diamonds. I use the beadfog block almost always after need by using the drawplate. This will eliminate ordering a forming one 0r two beads. This keeps the beading tool well certain size when you need it and holding a job fox days or shaped and results in well-shaped beads over the stone. Figure weeks waiting for the order to come in. Having to delay a 1, View C, point "a" shows how the tool is shaped with the repair job is costly to you in time, and often taxes the patience beading block. of your customer. Another useful tool in doing jewelry repair is the Cup burrs are another useful set of tools. They come drawplate. With a drawplate and draw tongs. inventory of gold in sizes from 0.90mm to 3.25mm, and are available in sets

22 Horological Times/July 1982 of twelve. They are burrs that work well in the flex-shaft tool, operations of sawing or cutting metal with rotary tools. but unlike other burrs that have the cutting edges on the out­ Beeswax can also be used to pick up small stones side, the cup burr has the cutters in the dome-shaped cone in and hold them while placing them in a setting without danger the end of the burr. To cite an example of how it will perform, of flipping, as they so often do when handling them with you can take a piece of wire or rod that is Imm in diameter tweezers. The fact that beeswax is firmly hard at room temper­ and use a cup burr on the end, and it will quickly round the ature but will get soft at human body temperature makes it end to a perfect dome. It can be applied to beads used in easy to use. By working it with the finger tips, heat is picked holding stones in bead settings, rounding the prongs on prong up from the fingers, making it soft, pliable, and with enough settings, rounding the ends of rivets, or rounding any metal adhesive property to handle small stones. Another use for that protrudes enough to go to the depth of the burr. These beeswax is to obtain a final finish on highly polished jewelry. are excellent for doing finishing work on jewelry repair jobs It can be applied to a soft cotton buff wheel. and after finish­ and can make the finished job a real high-quality, professional ing with rouge and being washed, lightly buffing the piece repair. will increase the luster on the polished article. It also leaves In conjunction with the cup burr, there is one ma­ a protective residue that will retard tarnish. terial that can be used that will improve the working of the Beeswax can be obtained in different forms from burr - that is the use of beeswax. Beeswax makes a fine your material supplier. but I am fortunate enough to have lubricant, and if the burr is rotated and the end touched in a lifetime supply. It is interesting how 1 obtained it. Several beeswax, it will quickly become liquid as the burr starts to years ago while administrating a jewelry repair class. one of the cut the metal with the heat produced by the cutting. This will jewelers in attendance whose father raised bees for honey, lubricate the piece, make the burr cut smoother, and in the brought in a cake about 4 in. thick, 2 ft. wide, and 3 ft. long. long run make the burr last much longer. It also can be used He told us to cut off a chunk large enough to suit our needs with any other burr or metal cutting device. It is excellent to and that is exactly what 1 did. This is premium beeswax since use on saw blades when cutting any kind of metal. I always it has been melted only once. keep a small ball of beeswax lodged in the corner where my Another tool which is used a great deal by Wi:ltch­ bench pin fits against the edge of my bench, and use it on all makers and jewelers is the jeweler's saw. It can be used for

Figure 1

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •••••••••• • • • • • • • • • •

A B

-point"b"

•••••••••• •. . • .• .• .• . •. .• . •. .• .• . •.... • • D

0

E

July 1982/Horological Times 23 cutting almost any metal except tempered steel. Blades can be replaced quickly when broken or dull. They are available in sizes from 8/0 to 1/0 and then from 1 to 14 - the 8/0 is the smallest and the No. 14 is the largest. For jewelry work, I have found 6/0 to be the smallest that I need and a 2/0 the largest. I stock 6/0, 4/0, 3/0, and 2/0 with the 3/0 being the one I use most often. I use the 6/0 blade when setting stones, and often for cutting a screw slot in a small screw head. Saw blades should be installed in the frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so the cutting is done when you pull the saw toward you. Although this is the reverse of the way most hand saws are used, it is because these blades are so delicate and easily broken that they will provide more strength and control with pulling rather than pushing. If you care to test this theory, try pushing a rope or chain, then pull it and you can see the reasoning behind this theory. In sawing straight lines it helps to keep the line straight if the saw is slanted; but when following a rnrved line, keep the saw in a vertical position so the blade is per­ pendicular with the work. Before sawing, if the blade is pulled through beeswax, it will make the sawing much easier bcc;rnse the beeswax lubricates the blade and the work. When making long cuts, stop every little while and relubricate the blade with COME ONTO beeswax. Using these hints will not only make sawing easier, but the blades will wear longer and there is less chance of breaking them. These blades are made of a special steel which is hardened and tempered in a furnace, and rnrely do OUR HOUSE they vary in hardness. Being steel, they should be stored in a dry place or otherwise protected from rusting. As I have always bought the four sizes that I use in gross bundles. they last for several years and I keep them in airtight tubes to keep FOR ALL them from rusting. Burnishing tools are quite useful in jewelry and watch repair. In the watch and jewelry industry burnishing refers to polishing by friction, or rubbing one metal against another. A burnishing tool is made of very hard steel and polished to YOUR WATCH a high luster. When it is rubbed over another metal that is softer, it will burnish out marks, scratches, and even close over depressions such as pit holes often found in gold rings. These pit holes are caused by porous gold, and sometimes after sizing smaller or stretching a ring, a series of these will AND CLOCK show up. To polish them using abrasives will in all probability remove too much gold to get to the bottom of the rit holes, but with the use of the burnishing tool, these pits can be covered up so they are almost (if not completely) invisible. MATERIAL Of course, another way to cover up blemishes is with hard solder. Some may criticize covering up bad places in rings, but we are in the business of repairing them, and the only way not to cover up would be to replace. Most mountings that arc broughc in for repair would be impossible to duplicate NEEDS with a new mounting, so the next best way is to repair them and restore them as near to the original condition of the piece as is wi Lh in o ur capability. Usu a.l ly, po lis hing is considered using abrasives, WE SPECIALIZE IN HARD TO FIND starting with coarse o nes lih crocus or tripoli and finishing with rouge on bu ff wheels. However, if a buff\ heel is charged MATERIAL AND TAKE PRIDE IN heaviJ. enough wi ch abrasive . a nd no more .is added, when PROMPT, DEPENDABLE SERVICE. used for vety heavy buffing it will becoril shin y with the co.lor of the metal being bu ffe d. From thJs point o i1 buffing wi th this wheel, with no more added abrasive will actually burnish the metal being bu ffed and remove ve ry little or no more metal from it. It also can produce a fine luster. Burnishing tools for hand use can be purchased from your material supply house. They are oval shaped, tapering from the handle to a point. poli shed to a ve ry smooth finish, and as ha rd as a file. 4f'l l 'Y~ , Two styles are available which arc identi ca l, except o.ne S. rLaRose1 Inc. blade is stra ight and the o

24 Horological Times/July 1982 THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 WEST SIXTH ST. CINCINNATI, OHIO 45202 Local Phone: (513) 721-1427 Ohio WA TS: 1-800-582-1706 • All Other: 1-800-543-0309

THREE POPULAR NUMBERS AVAILABLE IN LITHIUM

ALL OTHER EVEREADY CELLS AT LOWEST PRICES

July 1982/Horological Times 25 From the Manuscript and Photo Library of Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC, FBHI, FNAWCC

Keeping Time In England

ers and clockmakers is the thatched farm clock at Cadnam, in the New Forest. It consists of a thatched clock tower with a clock chamber of framed oak, a slate dial with Arabic numerals, and a spade hour and pointed minute hand. The roof is thatched in bonnet form­ copper wire tied down with hazel cross­ rods. The thatch cladding of the sides of the tower is also wire bound. The clock movement is of the blacksmith type and strikes the hours on a bell which can be heard a mile away across the fields. This was really a stable yard clock and is a most unusual example from the annals of . 'Li.CIB

Thatched Clock at Cadnam

Selfridge's Wonder Clock, Oxford Street, London.

details carefully copied from old en­ Self ridges gravings. The two clock dials, with raised numerals and colored hands, are mounted Wonder Clock on an enriched tripod, which con­ tains the Westminster chimes. The clock is operated by electricity, which gives ig Ben has a rival. It is the magnifi­ half-minute impulses to its mechanism. cent clock over the main entrance B The hour bell weighs three tons, and the of the Selfridge house, Oxford Street, clockwork and bells are controlled by London. the master clock within the building. Time flies, and Oxford Street crowds are reminded of the swift passage of the hours by the Queen of Time, the chief figure of the decorative group with which the timepiece is ornamented. She stands 11 ft. high with golden wings outspread. Thatched A huge ship's prow, hewn from a 15-ton block of Portland stone, supports this group, for passersby are reminded Clock not only of time but of the world's merchandise, which is continually passing ural England is famous for its through the great house of Selfridge. Rthatched cottages, inns, churches, Surmounting the clock is the model of a and barns, but one of the most unique fourteenth century ship with all the features of the combined crafts of thatch-

26 Horological Times/July 1982 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE (Continued from page 4) vices for their members and improve the image of the hor­ ologist, as well. We now command respect from watch and clock manufacturers throughout the world. Personally, I would like to thank Mr. Stevens from the bottom of my heart! I could not have survived as your President without his knowledge, patience, and polite guidance. As I complete my Presidential term, I would like to salute all the people who make up the American Watchmakers Institute. May God Bless "You All" ... and may all your days be happy and prosperous. The AWI is healthy and grow­ ing today. The future of our organization and our industry depends upon the continued dedication of horologists who give, unselfishly, of the~r knowledge and experience to help the progress of other horologists. Let's keep up the good work! ~ QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS (Continued from page 12) The shortest length is the coil, 12 turns closer toward the center, or 12 x 0.1,5~ = 1.86. Then subract the 1.86 from the coil's length (14.00 - 1.86 = 12.14). Multiply 12.14 by 3.1416, which,equals 38.14. Averaging out the 44 and 38.14 giFes us a figure of 82.139 + 41.07mm. Since we want twelve coils, inwound, and allowing for the connection towards the barrel arbor, we add the distance of the inner coil or another 38.14. This equals 530.98mm. To obtain inches we divide this by 25.4 and arrive at 20. 90 inches. So, your mainspring should be 20. 90 inches by 0.155mm thick and whatever your width is as mentioned aboFe; 2.60 minus the thickness of your barrel cover and allowing 0. 05 or 0.1 Omm endshake. 'U[]]3

Your Complete Quartz (Digital and Analog) Watch Material and Equipment Supplier Over 125 popular LED, LCD, and Quartz Analog modules • and movements available from stock .

• Complete line of equip_ment and tools for the beginner as well as the expert repairperson.

Components - including: quartz crystals, LCD displays, • trim capacitors, LCD backlights, batteries, LCD alarm parts, push buttons, module hardware, and much, much, more!

Repair service at reasonable prices on all quartz types, includ­ • ing LED, LCD, and quartz analog.

Quartz (digital and analog) Watch Repair Training Course-2- • day course combining Swiss, U.S., and Far Ea_stern r~p-air technology to provide the most comprehensive tra1n1ng ever offered .

• 15-lesson Correspondence Course on quartz analog repair, covering the electronic portion of the watch in detail.

CALL OR WRITE FOR OUR FREE CATALOG AND TRAIN ING COURSE BROC HURES DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR PARTS AND EQUIPMENT CALL I Nationwide I Texas only 1 STATE RD., MEDIA. PA 19063 (2151 565-7610 TOLL-FREEi 800-527-4722 800-492-4104

July 1982/Horological Times 27 IT's CLOCK TIME At jJlARSHALL-~WARTCHILD

POPULAR - PROFITABLE YOU CAN CREATE THE COLLECTIBLE LOOK IN CLOCKS with these old time kitchen clock glasses. Clock repairmen will recognize these familiar kitchen clock glasses with gold printed designs used on many thousands of old American kitchen clocks. These reproductions are made by one of the very fine, high-quality U. S. glass producers, with authentic designs and exceptional quality. Glass size is 8 in. x 14 in. - can be cut down to fit most kitchen shelf clocks. D EACH . • ...... •.•....•...... •...... •..$4.95 A 0 BEDSIDI and TRAiil ALARM CLOCKS Regular Alarm - BA 1 •Travel Alarm - TR 1 0 EACH ...... $10.95 Much needed - keep it in stock! HANSEN"SYNCHRON"MOTOR • ,...,...... No. C610996 N9, C61099l No.C61108

Hansen "Synchron" Motors are universal in that they are used in clocks and various timing devices by a wide range of manu­ facturers. Model 600 and 610 is by far the most popular of all Hansen motors and is used in many different clocks and timers. It's in our "Recommended Stocking" Group. D No. 56750 ...... $10.95

No. C61106 No. C6110l No. c.~1101 ------Send (or phone) your order to: MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD P.O. Box 726-H, Chicago, IL 60647 PAINTED Quantity GLASSES ___ BA 1 Regular Alarm @ $10.95 TO FIT ___ TRl Travel Alarm @ $10.95 ALL SHOP Kitchen Clock Glass @ 4.95 REGULATOR __ C610996 __ C610997_C6110B CLOCK DOORS __ C61106 __C61107 _C61101 UP TO 13-1/2 in. - ~ Painted Glasses@ $14.50 by 13-3/4 in. C61112: No . 1 __ No . 2 __ No.3 __ glass tablets are Number 1 Number 2 Number3 Name ______painted, just like Upper Ring. Gold Calumet Baking Coca Cola. Gold Powder. Gold let­ the originals. Ring with black letters on clear background. ters with black glass. Firm ------DNo.C61112 background. Address ______EACH ... $14.50 City/State/Zip ______

28Horological Times/July 1982 Join The PROFESSIONALS! Join A.W.I. Activities and Services AWi ting them. AWi takes positive action with Purpose provides its members with numerous ser· both the legislative and executive branches vices to help accomplish its objectives on issues affecting the horological industry. Some of the major ones are described Meetings between high government of­ The American Watchmakers Institute was founded in 1960 by below ficials are conducted by AWi when FOR GREATER PROFIT necessary Institute of America It is the national AWi 's monthly magazine. the Horological PUBLIC RELATIONS PROGRAM relates important contributions of members professional association of horologists. Times provides stimulating. useful. how-to­ do·it. articles Each issue is packed with and the industry to the press. government leaders. the business community, and The basic purpose of the American Watchmakers Institute is to encourage and new ideas. new concepts. new ways to make the craftsman more successful academic circles assist the horologist to improve his technical skills, his income and status. It is our INFORMATION CENTRAL TECHNICAL INFORMATION aim to bring to the horologist the most up-to-date information available on AWi Technical Bulletins are prepared in a clearing-house of information on all phases uniform style that makes them easy to read developments in all facets of the industry. At the same time, AWi conducts all of horology AWi uniquely brings together and use They are punched in convenient the public relation functions that are so vital to a profession: these involve both watchmakers. clockmakers. school. in· booklet form so they can be protected in a the public and governmental sectors. dustry. material suppliers and local associations regular notebook binder. handy for your use AWi Technical Bulletins are prepared The American Watchmakers Institute shows its members new ways to solve problems, PERSONAL COUNSELING by experts in the field of horology by experts on individual technical problems provides them with individualized technical assistance, and promotes their TECHNICAL CERTIFICATION general welfare. EMPLOYMENT SERVICE Three proficiency examinations in AWi offers its members free nation-wide watchmaking and two exams in clockmak­ employment service In addition to filling ing are given by AWi on a voluntary basis. specific job opportunities. AWi circulates They are Cenified Mester Watchmaker. watchmaker's and clockmaker's resumes to Cenified Watchmaker. Certified Electronic Join A WI and receive prospective employers Members may also Watch Specialist, Certified Master list their employment needs in the Clockmaker and Cenified Clockmaker. Horological Times without charge Certified Watchmaker and Certified Clockmaker exams are designed to test the HOROLOGICAL TIMES® EDUCATIONAL MEETINGS proficiency of individuals with limited ex­ every month! for members and their staff personnel are perience in the craft. Cenified Master held throughout the year Subjects include Watchmaker. Cenified Master Clockmaker actual bench experience. as well as and Cenified Electronic Watch Specialist • Features every month by technical presentations exams are for those individuals well industry experts experienced in the craft GOVT. RELATIONS PROGRAMS As an AWi cenified craftsmen, you can • Constant update of A WI news keep members informed on important proudly display your certificate of achieve· legislative proposals. administrative agency ment: it is universally recognized es the and events activities. court cases. and tax rulings affec- sign of a competent and skilled craftsman • Valuable technical material, "how to" tips, book reviews, and MORE Enroll me immediately so that I can get all the generous benefits of A.W.I membership. Here is my $30.00 for annual dues. • ALL OF THE ABOVE . J" EVERY MONTH! Name (please print)------I Address I' Rapidly becoming a ''MUST" City State Zip Code ----- • Please check Watchmaker 0 Watchmaker-Jeweler 0 Clockmaker D in every jewelry store Jeweler D Student D Other ______-----

If you are a member of a guild or association or school. please indicate See other side for directions on returning this handy mailer. Why not do it today? Name of Organization or school - - --'------Enclose payment and we'll even pay the postage! Think of this not as an expense, If you are certified. Indicate: Type of Certificate Number ______but as an investment in your own future. • 1cas oi adc.i ipio;:,s JO a1dcis asua1d • 3Nll SIH.l ~NOTv' OlO:l ~©

NO POSTAGE 111111 NECESSARY IF MAILED IN THE UNITED STATES w 0( z r _J 0 CJ) )> r BUSINESS REPLY MAIL :::c: 0 1- z FIRST CLASS PERMIT NO. 15209 CINCINNATI, OH (.9 G) z 0 -I _J :::c: POSTAGE WILL BE PAID BY ADDRESSEE <( CJ) c r THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE _J z m P. 0. Box 11011 ~ CD Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 )

'\___FOLD ALONG THIS LINE CD

'->

_j I

For your convenience, fold on the lines in the order indicated. Place check or money order securely inside and seal with tape. Don't worry about a postage stamp; it's on us! Significant Selling Support-Superb Cleaning Systems From .fflARSHALL-~WARTCHILD for your own use for profitable sales and promotion

e;;;-;;;-- -- ~ -- DELUXE GEM-SONIC

\ Comes complete with basket and solution. Removes tarnish, stains and dullness by chemical action and • electrosonic vibration. Cleans diamonds, rings, , I , watchbands, and may other items . I D No. 880 ...... $12.50

) -______,

RADIANT GOLD

MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD'S OWN QUALITY SOLUTION. You may reason­ ably call it a "system," since one dip cleans jewelry, diamonds, , and many other items. Tested, proved by countless jewelers over many years. D No. 18600 - 1 dozen (minimum order) ...... $13.75 1 gross ...... $165.00

SPECIAL OFFER Buy in gross lots and get 2 dozen FREE with each gross - bonus value of $27.50.

~nowFREE - with each far • ------: ------For mail order convenience: As always, your satisfaction is guaranteed by MARSHAL L-SWARTCH I LO P.O. Box 726-H, Chicago, IL 60690 .fflARSH ALL-~WARTCHILD Please send: _No. 880 - Deluxe Gem-Sonic@$12.50 doz. No. 18600 Radiant Gold ( 1 2040 Milwaukee Ave., Chicago , IL 60647 - 312/278-2300 doz. minimum) @$13.75. 109 North Akard, Dallas TX 75201 - 214/741-1454 _gross No. 18600 Radiant Gold @ 1212 Main St., Houston, TX 77001 - 713/759-9009 $165.00 gross . 55 New Montgomery St., Rm. 621, San Francisco, CA 94105 - 415/421 -2153 SPECIAL OFFER - Send 2 doz. 1425 Fourth Ave., Seattle WA 98101 - 206/682-6158 FREE with each gross .

PHONE ORDERS ARE TOLL FREE (except - sorry! -from Alaska and Hawaii) Name ______from 9 to 4 C.D.T. In Illinois: 800/972-3776; other states: 800/6214767. Firm ______QUICK CREDIT TO ACCOUNTS WELL RATED BY Address ______DUN & BRADSTREET OR JEWELERS BOARD OF TRADE. City/State/Zip ______

July 1982/Horological Times 29 Cl

By Fred S. Burckhardt

Specific Gravity, Fluorescence and Phosphorescence

pecific gravity is a valuable test in the determination have a liquid to match the specific gravity of every stone, the S of a gem. Of course, it can only be performed on un­ tests previously mentioned will help to determine, with fairly mounted . In gemology, specific gravity is defined good accuracy, the specific gravity of the stone in question as the ratio of the weight of a stone to that of an equal amount using only a set of five or six liquids. of water by volume. Since the density of matter is what Heavy liquids can also be useful in checking inclusions determines its weight, it must be understood that the atomic in gemstones, and also determining the refractive index of a weights of a stone's components and the atomic spacing of stone. These tests are more complicated and require advanced these components, is what determines its mass per unit volume. knowledge to perform them correctly. Keep in mind that be­ For example, it would be easy to determine the difference fore any stone is tested, it must be cleaned and re-cleaned, between the density of a cubic foot of lead, a cubic foot of including the tweezers. This procedure should also be followed water, and a cubic foot of chicken feathers. Heft alone will before the gem is tested in a different liquid. GEM Instruments quickly demonstrate the differences in the density or mass of Corp. has a set of liquids prepared in various specific gravities these materials. which can be used to test most gemstones. As with all instru­ There are several ways to determine the specific ments, follow the directions carefully. gravity of a . The fastest and easiest one will be the only one with which we will concern ourselves. This deter­ Fluorescence and Phosphorescence mination will be through the use of heavy liquids. We know that water is a certain density, or is at its There are some gemstones that possess the property of trans­ greatest density at 4°C. This is the basis of measurement for forming invisible light (ultraviolet or X-rays) into visible light. determining specific gravity. We also know that gemstones This can be seen in the form of fluorescence. If this glowing have a fairly constant unit mass or density. Therefore, by effect continues after the light source is removed, the material the specific gravity of an unknown stone, it is a simple is said to be phosphorescent. Ultraviolet radiation can be a matter to look at the specific gravity table, which will help very useful aid in the identification of a gemstone. In itself, determine the identification of the stone. There are some the results cannot be considered conclusive, but coupled with stones whose makeup can affect the specific gravity because of other tests, it will help in positive identification. its included materials, such as with matrix or other Many diamonds will fluoresce (usually in blue), but stones of a similar nature. Stones such as these need to be they can fluoresce in any color. Some , , and identified by other tests. in both their natural state and synthetic state will One simple specific gravity test will help to identify fluoresce in telltale colors and intensities of these colors. . Just dissolve salt in some water until it's saturated, and Many of you who have visited museums have seen displays drop in the stone in question. If it floats, you can be well­ of minerals that, when excited by ultraviolet radiation, will assured it's amber. All the substitutes for amber will sink in fluoresce in all the spectral colors. An ultraviolet unit will not this solution. This is the way much of the amber is found in only prove useful in your work, it's also a lot of fun to show a the Baltic area. The material breaks loose under water, floats customer how their gemstone "glows." GEM Instruments Corp. to the surface, and is then washed ashore. has an ultraviolet unit equipped with both long- and shortwave Heavy liquids use the same principle. If an unknown features. stone is placed in one of the liquids and it sinks rapidly, it Up to this point, there has been no mention of text­ means the stone has a much greater specific gravity than the books. I assume that those of you still reading these articles liquid. If the stone stays suspended in the liquid, the specific have some interest in using some of the instruments described gravity of both the stone and the liquid is the same. If the so far. If so, you will need more information on the instru­ stone sinks slowly, its specific gravity is just slightly higher. If ments and tables to assist you in your work. The following you release the stone on the bottom and it rises slowly, the texts are recommended: Handbook of Gem Identification by stone's specific gravity is slightly lower. If the stone floats, its Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr.; Gem Testing by B. W. Anderson; specific gravity is less than that of the liquid. There may be a and Gems: Their Sources, Description, and Identification by time when only part of the stone will sink below the surface of Robert Webster. These books are available through the GIA the liquid, in which case, determine what portion sinks. For Bookstore, 1735 Stewart St., Santa Monica, CA 90406. Write example, if 7 /8 of the stone is submerged, this means that the for the book list first as some of these texts are quite expensive. stones specific gravity is 7 /8 that of the liquid. If you do pursue your studies, they will all prove to be very Since it would be improbable, if not impossible, to inexpensive. frCIE

30Horological Times/July 1982 TECHNICAL SUPERIORITY RESULTING FROM

SUPER-SLIM QUARTZ CONTINUING MINI-PENDULUM MOVEMENTS IN IDEAL MOVEMENTS WITH DIMENSIONS PASSING STRIKE • Only 2" x 2Y," x 'le" dimensions RESEARCH • Separate magnet coil drives pendulum • Up to 3 years on a single "AA" Battery independently • Fixed equilibration for longtime stability •Movement Size: 4'/1," x 2'/," x 11/2" • Kienzle transducer system-Bipolar Shaft Size:'/,," 180° step-angle •Pendulum: Adjustable from 3'/,," to 3%", • Center fixation permits universal use . to 3'/,", and to 4Y," . Bob diameter, 314" All hands and fittings provided . • All hands and fittings furnished •Various shaft lengths: '/,,", 1/2", %", KIENZLE 314", and 'le" •Self-starting and service-free • Sweep second hand Quartz Clock Movements & Accessories • Self-starting and service-free Barometers, Hygrometers, Thermometers and a wide selection of Dials, Clock Hands, Numerals and Finials ALL MOVEMENTS MADE IN GERMANY When it is time for the best in time, you can't do better than a fine quality Kienzle movement. As a result of Kienzle's continuing development of new materials and techniques, you can look to us for the newest in easy-to­ operate and service movements with ALTERNATION small dimensions and extreme accurary. MOVEMENTS FOR QUARTZ ALARM CLOCKS NOT LOW PRICED MOVEMENTS BUT STANDARD & HIGH TORQUE QUALITY MOVEMENTS AT LOWEST PRICES • Movement size 2'/,," x 23/," x '/," QUARTZ MOVEMENTS • Operates up to 3 years on a single "AA" cell A/so Available, a complete line of •Movement size: 23/," x 2'/," x 11/," • Simplified top alarm stop with extended clocks ... Alarm, Anniversary, Chime, lever for style alarms • 1 year service on a single alkaline "C" cell Decorator, Desk, Kitchen, Mantle, • Low current consumption and noiseless operation • Center fixation permits universal use Nautical, Office, Pendulum, Travel, and Wall. Long-Ring Timers (60 & 120 • Kienzle transducer system-Bipolar 180° • 12 and 24-hour movements available step-angle • Self-starting and service-free minutes) and Weather Instruments • Kienzle transducer system-Bipolar, • Self-starting a~d service-free 180° step-angle For technical information, call or write: KIENZLE TIME, INC. P.O. Box 67/Fox Lake, IL 60020 (312) 587-1001 QUARTZ KIENZLE-ASSOCIATED WITH TIME SINCE 1822 ACCURATE PENDULUM MOVEMENTS

• Available with or without bell (Passing Strike) • Movement size: QUARTZ WESTMINSTER 3 7 4 /,," x 2/," x 11/2" CHIME MOVEMENTS •Shaft: 3/4" or'/," 1 • Pendulums in 8", 9", •Movement size: 5" x 63/," x 2 12" 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", COMPLETE • Choice of Westminster, Bim-Bam or 21" lengths . Bob FIT-UP MOVEMENTS Barn strike . diameter 21/," and 23/4" •Night-time volume reduction-volume control • Separate magnet coil • Ready-to-insert round movements • Front controls-can be mounted to wall. drives pendulum •Available in 3", 31/,", and 4" dial diameters •Operates on a single "C" cell. (4 "C" independently • Move~ent size 23/,"diameter, %" depth cells for chime mechanism .) • All hands and fittings • Complete with brass bezel, dial, hands, •High precision quartz crystal furnished and crystal • Kienzle transducer system . Bi-polar 180° • Self-starting and step-angle • Round movements only available in %" and 1 service-free '/," shaft length •Pendulum length: up to 42 12" from center shaft to tip of pendulum • Self-starting and service-free • Self-starting and service-free

July 1982/Horological Times 31 Essence of Clock Repair©',.,

Part LXVIII By Sean C. (Pat) Monk, CMW The Stan_dard 30-Hou_r Cuckoo Clock s of yet, we have not discussed a modern, standard At this point it should be noted that at the half A 10-hour cuckoo clock. The sample in question is manu­ hour, the short arm of the cam behind the hour wheel only factured by Regula of Schonack, West Germany, and is, ac­ allows lever (b) via lever (a) to clear one tooth on the hour cording to our historian/mechanic, Stan Warren, the most rack, thereby producing a single strike/cuckoo. Lever (b) common 30-hour cuckoo movement encountered today. is a multifunction component, which not only locks and un­ The movement is secured to the case front by four locks the strike (cuckoo) train, but, in addition, serves the steel brackets riveted to the ends of the plate pillar posts. following purposes: When lever (b) is moved to the side, it In removing the movement from the case, the cuckoo bird frees a rack cam (c) which has a steel pin mounted on it to should first be disconnected from its door by unhooking its rotate with the freed strike train (after the warning is com­ attached wire from the door connector. pleted) to count the teeth on the hour rack. When the strike/ The two operating clock weights (one going and cuckoo cycle is completed, the lever (b) clears the strike one cuckoo train) are interchangeable but may vary in weight rack and punches down on an internal lever which allows (per pair) from 275 to 425 grams, according to the particular the cuckoo bird to be freed from its door-open position and sample. return to its door-closed position. The cuckoo bird mounting The strike, or cuckoo train, consists of three wheels post is tensioned by a brass, helical spring to allow this to (including the chain wheel) and a speed governing fly. On the happen. However, one common problem in servicing this center arbor behind the hour wheel, is a brass pinion which particular clock is that through use, this helical spring becomes carries a steel lifting cam, the latter having one long arm for too weak to be effective in door closing and must sometimes the hour lift and one short arm for the half-hour lift. (This be retensioned by winding an extra loop or two onto the will be discussed momentarily.) mountmg post. When the minute hand nears the hour position, The clock contains a pair of cuckoo bellows tuned the long cam arm moves a lifting lever (Figure 1, point a) by the manufacturer to effectively reproduce the two notes upwards, releasing a lever (b ), setting the clock up for the of the cuckoo bird. The bellows lifting levers, in addition to warning. The lifting lever (a) is made in two sections: the the strike hammer, are lifted by a circular-shaped steel plate lower section operates the actual lift, and the upper section (Figure 2, point d) behind the back clock plate. This steel serves two main purposes. First, it lifts the lever (b) which plate is set with eight lifting prongs, or pins, which operate frees the warning pin from its locked position, and secondly, it the two bellows and the strike hammer at the hour and half arrests the warning pin at the end of the warning before the hour. This steel plate is attached to the end of the cuckoo strike/cuckoo commences at the hour. chain wheel arbor which protrudes beyond the back plate.

Figure 1. The front plate, dial removed. Figure 2. The back plate,

32 Horological Times/July 1982 Essence of Clock Repair

Bergeon bushing tool, together with its excellent assortment .. of bushings, is again recommended for this work. One should also take care not to set the wheels too tight in their pivot holes, yet not so loose as to allow the newly bushed holes to become elliptical in a short time. We also recommend the use of bronze bushings rather than regular brass bushings. They are harder and last much longer. (2) Bellows-top replacement is also a common necessity. The material is apt to wear out because of the constant, jerky motion to which it is subject. New bellows tops can be obtained from most watch and clock material supply houses. They come in four different sizes; therefore, it is suggested that one does an accurate job of measuring the old material. (3) The mounting piece for many of the cuckoo birds is made of plastic which is easily fractured by tightening its locking screw. When this occurs we recommend that the bird unit be replaced with a unit which has a metal mounting piece. This replacement is also available at the clock material house. One final note on the suspension: in almost all cases Figure 3. The actual clock, mounted on the wall, minus the headboard. The latter was returned to the customer on leaving of this type of clock the suspension is of the rocking-wire the repair. type (Figure 2, point e) instead of the regular ribbon steel Common Repair Tips suspension spring. The advantage here works in favor of (1) These clocks are thin plated and comparatively heavy both the owner and the mechanic, because the clock can be weighted, and therefore have a tendency to need much correc­ moved and manipulated without the worry of broken or tive bushing work after a number of years of running. The twisted suspensions. 1iCJB

This comprehensive course is designed to equip today's watchmaker with the HAVE YOU HEARD? basic skills and understanding required to successfully service modern elec­ tronic watches. The course consists of the following seventeen lessons: THE Lesson 1 Theory of Magnetism AMERICAN Lesson 2 Bench Work with Magnets WATCHMAKERS Lesson 3 Dry Cells: Voltage and Amperage Lesson 4 Using a Meter to Measure Voltage INSTITUTE Lesson 5 The Theory of Electron Flow and Ohm's Law Lesson 6 Using Meters to Measure Current and Resistance Offers a Valuable Lesson 7 How Magnetism Can Generate Electricity Lesson 8 Generating Electric Pulses at Your Bench HOME STUDY COURSE: Lesson 9 Introduction to Diodes and Transistors Lesson 10 Experimenting with Diodes, Transistors, and Capacitors MICRO-ELECTRONICS Lesson 11 The ESA Electronic Watch, Calibre 9158 Lesson 12 Electronic Principles of the Accutron FOR Lesson 13 Quartz Crystals and Electronic Reduction HOROLOGISTS Lesson 14 Bench Practice on the ESA 9180 Lesson 15 LED and LCD Solid State Watches Lesson 16 Bench Practice on the LCD Solid State Alarm Watch Lesson 17 Summary

In addition to the written lessons, students will be involved in servicing two electronic watches, as well as working with concept teaching kits. AWi will provide the watches and kits. This course will prepare individuals for the AWi Certification Examination of CERTIFIED ELECTRONIC WATCH SPECIALIST. Course Price: $250.00 Time payments can be arranged with $50.00 down payment and ten successive payments of $20.00 per month. To receive your course information booklet, send a mailing label to: MICRO-ELECTRONICS COURSE FOR WATCHMAKERS HOME STUDY DEPARTMENT P.O. BOX 11011 CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211

July 1982/Horological Times 33 YOU CAN HELP US TO SERVE YOU BETTER!

Your A WI membership card signifies that you are entitled Build to the many services offered by your association. However, we must have the correct information from your card to be able to serve you most efficiently. The illustration below points out the important, coded information on the right side of your membership Profits card. Always use your AWi membership number when cor­ responding or ordering from AWi! liCJI3 and AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSJRVTE 1962 Store This is to Certify that JOHN A. DO& 000 SMITH ST. Traffi ~·i ' IOIBERE, OH 12345 . ' \~ !' (.~ I.. b y fi I I 1ng . , : ·g ~ : ·. ,~ Membership @crystals ~ ·· ;=::- ~ Number

Certification Type of in your store! ~~/ Number Certification

You can fit G-S Watch Crystals in your own store and make a good profit. You don't have to be a watchmaker to fit crystals (although it helps). POWERFUL MEDICINE No matter where you are located, don't rely on others to do your crystal fitting. Mail is AS PRESCRIBED BY slow, expensive, and loss is possible. Give your customers prompt service on your own premises. Keep the additional profit. Don't give it away. G-S makes every style and design crystal needed - supplied in various types of cabinets and assortments. Your material wholesaler has full information on G-S sets, and carries a complete stock of G-S crystals to serve you. INSIST ON REFUSE SUBSTITUTES! G-S - THE ORIGINAL - @ STILL THE BEST CRYSTA LS Order from your wholesaler ,------, Germanow-Simon ------Machine Co., Inc. ------! 1 1 420,St. Paul St., Rochester, N.Y. 14605 Please send me: D Information on latest G·S Crystal System with liberal trade-in allowance, small monthly payments, no interest or carrying charges. D Send G-S Catalog

Address ______Phone ____ JEWELMONP:.41t • (AREA CODE 912) 549-3800 CORPORATION • _.I MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 City ______State __ Zip ___ NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 1 1 Wholesaler's Name I 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH L------~ MINNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA 65427

34 Horological Times/July 1982 UUARTZ WATCH REPAIR

.. ~ ~--··--·-- . ..-· ~·. .

MODULE TESTER • MODEL 800 Quartz watch repair is less complex than tradi­ tional watch repair. Counter service is often pos­ No module tester, foreign or domestic, can match the sible while the customer waits. features of the Model 800 Module Tester. Its three power sources provide maximum versatility for test­ ing all types of quartz and electronic modules. LCDs-LEDs-Analog Quartz-Balance Wheel Elec­ trics-Accutrons-all can be tested on the Model 800 Module Tester.

QUARTZ TIMER· MODEL 1100 STEREO MODEL M85 Failure analysis of all types of electronic watches is fast and accurate with Zantech's test equipment. The Model 1100 Quartz Timer is the most sensitive and The large working distance of the M85 fastest responding of all quartz timers. Microscope simplifies delicate watch and jewelry repairs. The bright 10X and 30X image leaves no flaw undetected.

In addition to our quality U.S. manufactured instruments, Zantech holds Quartz Watch Repair Classes - Two Days for Digital and Two Days for Analog. We also maintain a large inventory of replacement parts. Along with every instrument sale, Zantech provides the technical information necessary to use the instruments profitably. Just call and ask for one of our technicians. We'll be glad to help.

77 SHADY LANE •TRENTON, NEW JERSEY 08619 • (609) 586-5088 Affiliate Chapter Column/Robert Allis

New Careers -New Members

ne of the topics of my column do no harm in pointing out this state­ A question just came to my mind: are you O last month was the shortage of ment when talking to an undecided young a giver or receiver? When your guild, shoemakers. I have since been informed man or woman. association, or whatever was started, that there is a shortage of almost any Let's not forget about the women. all mem hers were givers: otherwise type of service technician, whether it There seem to be more women learning we would not have spread the word of be auto, TV, watch, or whatever. Per­ the trade each year. Maybe this is the what we are and what we have to offer. haps this might be a method we can answer: recruit the young women. The Just think about that for a minute. employ in trying to interest young people ultimate answer eludes me. It is certain When your association was originated, in learning watch repair. One of the that something will have to be done to all the members were givers. They wanted things that prompted me to pursue a recruit young members, or the guilds and to spread the word. Then, as different career in watch repair was an advertise­ associations are doomed. members shouldered most of the load, the ment for a watch repair school that rest sat back to be entertained and called watch repair a depression-proof educated by the frw givers. So why not profession, stating that the good watch­ By the time you read this column, the support these persons, and become givers maker had a job, even through the annual meeting will be past history. At the instead of just receivers. Spread the great depression. I grew up during those time of this writing, it is still May, and word of what your organization is and years, and by the time I graduated from so I can not report on the meeting at this what it has to offer. 1 present you with high school, the depression was coming time. The meeting will be covered in this challenge: this year sign up one new to an end. I can't attest to the reliability next month's issue, and I feel certain member or bring one old member back. or the statement, but it could certainly there will be plenty to report . 'uf.".iH

. . .from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

Hearty Congratulations to Ontario

he Ontario Watchmakers Associ­ 3rd vice-president, David Azoulay; trea­ Tation celebrated its 45th anniver­ surer, Dave Murakami; and secretary, sary and 25 years as a corporation at the Robert S. Phillip. The immediate past Annual Members Meeting and President's president is Robert J. Phillip. Banquet recently at the Loews Westbury From 12:00 noon to 2:00 p.m., Hotel, Toronto. the Toronto Jewellers Supply Co., Past President Robert J. Phillip (left) installs Jon Blankenburg (right) as Registration opened at 9:30 a.m. Ltd., demonstrated the latest watch timing president of OWA for 1982-83. with coffee provided. At 10:00 a.m. equipment to the members on an indi­ President Robert J. Phillip called the vidual basis. meeting to order. The minutes of the last At 2:00 p.m., the technical program Annual Members Meeting were read and began. Two slide lectures from the approved. The treasurer gave the annual American Watchmakers Institute were audited financial report and presented a presented: "The Watch Material Story" motion to increase the membership dues and "Basic Clock Repairing." as of January 1, 1983. The motion was Jacques Reymond, technical direc­ approved by the members. tor for Watchmakers of Switzerland Following the reports by various Information Center of New York City, chairpersons and general discussion by the presented a very interesting program. members, the election of officers for the He gave detailed information on the next year was held. The new officers latest developments in the Swiss Watch for 1982-83 are: president, H.O. "Jon" Industry. The program was extremely Blankenburg; 1st vice-president, James well received by those present. Hill; 2nd vice-president, Michael Cosby; Following the technical program,

38 Horological Times/July 1982 .. ~ ·~ ... Robert Phillip then made a special presentation to member Peter Danayan for bravery in saving the life of a police officer. He was presented with a Good Citizen award. Gerry Graybiel paid a tribute to past president, Tom Mitchell who was not able to be present. He then called on Alice Phillip to whom he presented a gift from the members, in apprecia­ tion of her many years of service to OWA. David Azoulay conducted the Lucky Draw, and the president adjourned the meeting. Ohio Convention The Watchmakers Association of Ohio will be having their annual convention Dennis Tricarico, president of the Peter Danayan (right) receiving his OWA Horological Society of New York. "Good Citizen Award." Peter is also July 30, 31, and August 1, 1982 at the a member of AW i. Marriott Inn, Hamilton Road Columbus Ohio. , , KANSAS The Kansas City Watchmakers Guild The material house displayers recently sponsored an A WI Clock Re­ are scheduled for Friday afternoon and storation course. The instructor was Saturday. There will be a barbeque of Otto Benesh. chicken and ribs Friday evening, and a The students were involved with prize will be presented to the man and projects such as making a count wheel, woman in the best western attire. piecing a clock hand, making and using Saturday will be filled with a matting tool; but the project that meetings and presentations, followed by impressed everyone was how to resilver the annual banquet and dance that evening. a dial. All members are urged to attend Those attending were greatly (left to right) Past President David and take advantage of the educational impressed with Mr. Benesh's knowledge Barthau presents Quarter Century Club opportunities, as well as the fellowship. on clock restoration. His lecture on the certificate to founding member Victor Failes (1937-1982) and President Jon history of clockmaking through the Blankenburg presents certificate to ages was fascinating. Robert Phillip (1937-1982). NEW YORK The guild recently elected three On May 3, 1982 at the Hotel Summit in new directors. They are Bill Bruce everyone attended the President's Recep­ New York City, Aaron Rennert handed Carl Carter, and Bob Roth. The ne; his gavel over to Dennis Tricarico who tion which was hosted by Watchmakers offi~ers for 1982 are Lewis Stephens, of Switzerland Information Center, repre­ was installed as the new president. president; Robert McKnight, vice-presi­ sented by Jacques Reymond. The ban­ Mr. Rennert had seen the or­ dent; Mike Danen berg, secretary; and quet followed. A delicious main course ganization grow and prosper during his Bob Roth, treasurer. \r[Jfl tenure. Relocation to Florida compelled was accompanied by wine, courtesy of Otto Benesh instructs an AWi Clock H. & W. Perrin Co., Ltd., and Toronto him to leave in the middle of his second Restoration course sponsored by Kansas Jewellers Supply Co., Ltd. The dessert, term. City Watchmakers Guild. a delicious 45th anniversary cake, was His successor, Mr. Tricarico, the wheeled into the banquet hall aglow with former vice-president, is well qualified to sparklers. handle his new post. For the past few President Phillip welcomed those years, he has had positions of leadership present and the newly elected president, within the organization. Moreover, he Jon Blanken burg, was sworn in to office. brings a strong technical background to Fallowing an acceptance speech, the the presidency. His experience was new president introduced the guest acquired from his work in research and speaker, Jacques Reymond, who gave , quality assurance, and cur­ a brief address. Michael Cosby presented rently in technical information services the new Master Watchmakers with their at the Bulova Watch Company. certificates. Robert Phillip was called on The installation proceedings were to present the new Quarter Century followed by a talk on clocks given by Club, which was created to honor those Ken Longo. In a very charming and members who have supported OWA for disarming way, Ken discussed his ex­ 25 or more consecutive years. An im­ periences with clock repairs and relations pressive wall certificate was commis­ with his customers. Of especial interest sioned by the directors, and these were was his warning regarding customer presented to the eligible members pre­ complaints in switching. He reported sent. Two founding members of OWA that he had been falsely accused of who were present at the party were switching an antique clock movement. Victor Failes of Saint Catherines and His own very careful and exact descrip­ Robert Phillip of Cookstown, who tion when he received the repair, con­ were presented their certificates last firmed by his customer, prevented a by President Blankenburg. nasty lawsuit.

July 1982/Horo/ogical Times 39 Swiss Quality Book Review

Raising Cash by Postyn & Postyn. 7-1 /2 x 9-1 /2 in., hard­ Watch Movements bound, 309 pages. Lifetime Learning Publications, Ten Davis Drive, Belmont CA 94002. $25.00. New Mechanical Movements As important as ra ising capital is to your business, it in itself is not enough. This book discusses controlling and planning your business as prerequisites to obtaining cash noting that these factors will in fact improve your credibility with your lender or investor. While the book surveys traditional and al­ ternative cash sources, and tells how to negotiate lhe best financing dea1 for your business, it does not stop th.ere. Im­ AS 1977-2 FF 59-21 FHF 69N portant control areas such as accounting systems financial (Replaces AS 1012) (Replaces FF 60) forecasting, determining monetary needs, maintaining cash t1ow, and designing your own business plan are covered in O u a ntit~ Ca liber Size Features Cost detail and a sample plan is provided after which you can FF 59-21 3%x10 17 Jwl lncabloc 25.00 pattern your own. An ideal guide showing all the angles of AS 1977-5 51/zX6% 17 Jwl lncabloc 22.50 financing your business. ETA 2442 6L Round 17 Jwl lncabloc 46.00 ETA 2412 63/4L Round 17 Jwl lncabloc 24.00 Retailing by Spitz and Flaschner. 74 black and white photos, 6%x8 FHF 69N 17 Jwl lncabloc 16.00 7-1/4 x 9-1/2 in., hardbound, 467 pages. Winthrop Publishers, ETA 2512-1 7%L Round 17 Jwl lncabloc 23.00 Inc., 17 Dunster St., Cambridge MA 02138. $17.95 . FHF 371 8%L Round 17 Jwl lncabloc 18.95 This is a well-organized textbook on practical, applied re­ New Quartz Movements tailing, written by two professors who have done extensive research and organized what has appeared in other books and trade magazines. As such, it is a detailed and up-to-date overview of the retail business, oriented primarily for students but with valuable review potential for the business owner. It would also serve as an excellent text in employee training and manager development, as it seems to cover everything­ Olv. Caliber Size Features Cost overall marketing concepts, career opportunities, consumer ESA 9200 6%x8 Electronic Sween Sec. 33.50 behavior, marketing strategy, retailer organization, personnel management, location analysis, floor layout, pricing, pur­ ESA 960.111 11 1hl Round Date Quartz Analoo 26.00 chasing, negotiation, selling, promotion, customer service , ESA 9154 12 1/2L Date Electronic 31.50 financial management, and apparent future trends. ESA 9158 13L Dav Date Electronic 29.00

Quartz Replacements For Mechanicals How to Constnict a Scissors Clock by John Wilding. 8 x 10}1 in., 72 pages, 244 figures, 16 supplemental figures for ESA 977.001-0uartz Replacement for AS 1977-5-Uses the appendix, a fusee grooving tool, soft covers. Published Same Hands-Case $25.00. by Brant Wright Associates, Ltd., 1982. $31.75. ESA _961.001-0uartz Replacement for FF 60-(Dial Feet Must Be Shortened) $23.50. This latest "how to ..." book, by John Wilding, is a project ESA 102.001-0uartz Replacement for FF 59-21-Same Dimensions and Dial Feet $40.00. ESA 950.001-Quartz Replacement for ETA 2512-Same Hands. Dial Feet Must be Changed $38.00. DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT ESA 301.001-0uartz Replacement for AS 1012-1677 WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN Bulova 5AH-Same Dimensions & Dial Feet $24.00. SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY Please Rush Movements as Listed. THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION : A - MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. Address ------B - ALL NUMBERS FROM BACK OF CASE. C - COLOR OF CASE. City ______State __ Zip ____ ,,_c.0 M.o KILB & COMPANY P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164 .:::-i"4i~ 623 N. SECOND ST. N1llonal WATS-Orders Only 800-328-0205 P. 0. DRAWER 8-A Es.slinger & Co. MIM9IOll WATS-Onfen D!ll.Y 800392-0334 ~ * lnqulrles-lnlormallon 612-452-711Kl ~ MILWAUKEE, WI 53201

40 Horological Times/July 1982 on making a fusee and train in a vertical, straight line, ter­ minating in a crossbeat, twin pendulums geared together but operating in a reciprocating manner. The shape of these two TWO SOLUTIONS pivoted pendulums' bobs closely resembles the handles of delicate, long scissors from which the clock receives its name. Each pendulum has two such bobs-one far below its pivoting TO YOUR point, the other just above it, making these truly compound pendulums. Regulation occurs by shifting the height of the QUARTZ REPAIR upper bobs. The escapement is reminiscent of the first of Thiout's experiments; not the most efficient but certainly eye arresting in its action. QUESTIONS Like Wilding's other project books, good clear draw­ By 1983, it is predicted that 90% of all watches sold in the ings and photographs make for better visual understanding. U.S. will be quartz. To meet the needs of this expanding The text and illustrations carry the reader in a step-by-step market, jewelers and watchmakers must obtain the neces· progression to the finished product. The instructions include­ sary skills to repair and service these timepieces. This is why among the many details-the escapement, regulation, materials Media Digital Corporation has developed two comprehen· required, register pins, making (wheel) crossings, barrel arbor, sive courses designed to provide you with the practical making the fusee, escape wheel, collets, pallet pinions,pendulum knowledge necessary for advancement in this field. bobs, "fretting out" and adjusting the escapement, fusee OUR lWO DAY INTENSIVE COURSE at the stopworks, making the hands, dial, special winding key, headquarters of MDC. Instructors will provide lacquering, screw bluing, and many other details. you with a thorough knowledge of the history This project manual is well laid out, although some and technical development of both digital and readers may be annoyed at the editorial policy of not placing I. analog quartz watches. You will receive hands· period dots after abbreviations or initials of names or indi­ on training utilizing the tools and equipment of cations of inches or their fractions, such as .. ."The 1/4 in ... MDC for troubleshooting, repair and assembly In fig 12 certain other holes ... Dr D M A Mercer .. ." techniques. And you will get a complete review Aside from these minor annoyances, the book is of the terminology and equipment used in the worthwhile, instructive, and even supplies reference sources industry and a business review of ways to get of tools, materials, cutters, and related hardware. The instruc­ the best return on your repair and servicing tions in this book make this type of project not as difficult time. The course is held once a month and is limited to 5 students per class. to complete as it normally would be. Course price: $250.00 Henry B. Fried OUR CORRESPONDENCE COURSE, cover· ing quartz analog watches only, features 15 comprehensive lessons which can be com· e pleted at your own pace in your home or office. American Clocks for the Collector by E. J. Tyler. 209 pages , 2 Practice movements will be supplied to you for 8-3/4 x 5-3/4 in., 143 black and white illustrations, 20 color hands-on practical experience in quartz watch plates. Published in 1981 by E. P. Dutton,NewYork.$13.00 repair, trouble-shooting and servicing. soft covers, $20.15 hard covers. Course price: $225.00(15 courses at $15 each) For more information on these courses, please call (215) E.J. Tyler, the British horological authority, is well known in 565· 7610, or fill out the application below and mail it to us. American clock collecting circles for his many contributions ------wwwww ______in the Bulletin of the National Association of Watch and Clock APPLICATION Collectors and for his informative books, European Clocks, YES, I'm interested in MDC's solutions to my quartz The Craft of the Clockmaker, Clocks and Watches, and Black repair questions.

Forest Clocks. D I would like to enroll in your (mo.) lWO-DAY This book covers early American clocks from colonial COURSE. Enclosed is my deposit check for $100.00. I (Continued on page 42) agree to pay the balance at the start of class. D I would like to enroll in your CORRESPONDENCE COURSE. Enclosed is my check for $65.00 ($50.00 deposit and $15 for first lesson. Deposit will be returned on completion of course.). Support D I am interested in both courses. Please send more The AWi-ELM TRUST information. NAME ~------~ ADDRESS ------~ SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM PHONE

By Sending Your SIGNATURE ------OLD WATCH BATTERIES to the

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS 1 State Road INSTITUTE Media, PA 19063·1595 3700 Harrison Avenue Tuition fees are now 100% tax deductible for business applications Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 and 95% deductible for personal use.

July 1982/Horological Times 41 We Salute These New ltfenJbersl

ABEL, Leonard H.-EI Paso, TX GERDES, Hans-Stanton, CA MOSS, James-Newton, MA ALLDRIDGE, George, Sr.-Warminster, PA GIBBARD, Julian R.-Charles Town, WV MUIRHEID, Ben F.-Champaign, IL BAILER, R.H. Wigfall-Charleston, SC GOLLAR, George H.-Roswell, NM NEFF, Bobbie L.-Kansas City, MO BAKER, Russell L.-Denver, CO GROUT, Randall-Lake-In-The-Hills, IL NORLANDER, Warren-St. Croix Falls, WI BANNING, Jack B.-Lenexa, KS HAFFNER, Michael J.-Birmingham, AL NYE, Clayton R.-San Antonio, TX BAUMBACH, Al-Denver, CO HARBAUGH, Jack E.-Waynesboro, PA OSTERHOUDT, Kenneth D.-Marshalltown, IA BOISVERT, Michael G. J.-Ontario, Canada HAR DASH, Rick L.-San Marino, CA PAGE, Richard-Elk City, OK BRACCO, Salvatore-New York, NY HERAM, Ansel-LaCrosse, WI PF LEGER, Greg-St. Louis, MO BRAIDMAN, Leo-McHenry, IL HERTEEN, James-Newton, IA PHILLIPS, Ronald J.-Craig, CO BUCHANAN, C. Jeff-Athens, GA HILDEBRAND, Jeffrey-Quincy, IL PIKE, Wayne J.-Oakton, VA BUNDSCHUH, E. J.-Sherman, TX HINTON, Bryan C.-Westerville, OH PLOWMAN, G. R.-Minneapolis, MN CHAP, Raymond J.-Tucson, AZ JACKSON, Daniel C.-Pendleton, IN POLIDORO, Michael A.-Pittsfield, MA COSSABOOM, Arthur W.-Cranbury, NJ JOHNSON, John G.-Monsey, NY REALUBIT, Nathaniel T.-Charlottesville, VA CRADDOCK, John-City of Industry, CA JUTZI, Eugene K.-Plainwell, Ml SALZANO, Frank M.-Bronx, NY CRITES, Charles-LaVerne, CA KATZ, Martin J.-New Rochelle, NY SCHAECHTER, Walter-Victoria, Australia CUTTER, Bill W.-Alexandria, LA KEIDERLING, Warren N.-Santa Ana, CA SIMS, Morton L.-New York, NY DAVIDSON, Richard G.-Paris, TX KIEHNE, Ronald E.-Graham, WA STEFANIAK, Walter-Naranja Lakes, FL DeJARDIN, George J.-Green Bay, WI LaBINE, Normand G.-Alberta, Canada STRAND, Randall K.-Rockford, MN DICHTER, Neil-Philadelphia, PA LANCER, Wilford-Franklin Square, NY STUTESMAN, Gordon-Sandy, UT ENGLISH, Richard-Baton Rouge, LA LITTLE, Clarence R.-Athens, AL TOY, John M.-Hoffman Estates, IL ERTZ I NG ER, Rene H.-Osoyoos, B.C., Canada McGEORGE, Charles W.-Dayton, OH TRAMA, Franklin E.-N. Bellmore, NY EVANS, George M.-Green Bay, WI MANNEY, Paul D.-Vancouver, WA VILADROSA, Armando, R.-San Antonio, TX FENNERN, Donald E.-Quincy, IL MILLER, Michael A.-Cincinnati, OH WEISBACH, Katherine L.-Louisville, Ky FISHER, D. Matthew-Marblehead, MA MILLONES, Victor-Quebec, Canada YEA TES, Ken-Manitoba, Canada FOX, Robert C.-Norristown, PA MIRANDA, Fernando N.-San Diego, CA YOUNG, John A.-Raytown, MO

BOOK REVIEW cases and dials, and also discusses the late nineteenth century (Continued from page 41) German imitations and modern reproductions. Historical times through the advent of mass production. The "OG" of sidelights, especially as it concerns the Englishmen lends a Jerome and his followers are pictured and exposed in detail. bit of flavor to his narrative. Even the American fictional The early American effort to produce a spring-driven time­ character, Sam Slick is brought into discussion. In the nine­ piece with native materials and Ives' wagon-spring clocks, teenth century, this humorous book and the sayings of the the fusee and its necessity in those American clocks which country clockmaker, Sam Slick, was synonomous with "in­ used it, as well as the beginning of America's mainspring novative" methods of clock repair. Perhaps, a quote from this industry is explained with some sidelights from a British book might explain the British acceptance of this fictional point of view. character by a Nova Scotian author. .. "One of the personages Portable, novelty, alarm, and calendar clocks, as with whom the clockmaker is fond of caricaturing is his well as patents, inventors, and some historical highlights father, Colonel Slick, a "hero" of Bunker Hill, who magnified are included. In fact, the book contains a fairly large cross that skirmish until it had become a great battle." section of typical and some sophisticated items with good Authors of books on overseas products often suffer black and white, and colored photographs. from a lack of direct, easy communication, and accessible Tyler includes chapters on repairs, restoration of (Continued on page 45)

Win CITY SUPPL Puzzled About Watch Repair? Serving the industry since 1921 LARGE STOCK OF OLD AMERICAN AND Let POLLAK WATCH SERVICE DISCONTINUED SWISS PARTS put the pieces together for you. We service conventionals, electrics, FULL LINE OF GENUINE MATERIALS Accutrons, and quartz analogs. 7 to 10 day service. LOWEST PRICES ON BATTERY CLOCK MOVEMENTS

•DIAL REFINISHING •HAIRSPRING VIBRATING POLLAK WATCH SERVICE. INC. •CRYSTAL FITTING SERVICE 2132 East 9th Street 5701 West 36th Street, Minneapolis, MN 55416 Toll Free Phone Number, 1-(800)-328-6009 Cleveland, Ohio 44115 In Minnesota, Call Collect, 1-(612)-920-3115 (216) 241-4413

42Horological Times/July 1982 Bench Tips/Joe Crooks

Keeping Up With Watch Cases, Movements

This "assembly line" organization tip is the second one from on the corresponding washer and compartment. The number Mr. Ralph Geiger of Indianapolis, Indiana. We published a is also written on the repair tag or envelope. good tip about pocket watches from Ralph in the December Incorporate the movement holder position number 1981 issue of the Horological Times. into a permanent identification number. This cuts down Although you may not disassemble as many watches on the amount of scratch marks and other records. Each at one time as described in the following tip, you may still batch of watches is given a number, and each watch in each find it quite valuable for multiple watch cleaning. There are batch has a number. By recording these numbers along with different systems for multiple watch cleaning, but the end the customer's name, etc., the watch can be identified after result is the same: you must use an efficient procedure. it has left the shop, using the same numbers used to identify Time saved on each repair means more income it while it was in the shop. The code looks like this: 126.14. for the watchmaker. The volume of repair each day can This indicates watch No. 14 of batch No. 126. triple if you organize your methods. After the movement is removed from the case and all components have been given an identification number, I reas­ I have some thoughts about increasing workflow efficiency semble the case. This takes a bit more time, but I find it which other watchmakers may find useful. saves me a greater amount of time when I am polishing cases. Recently I purchased a new cleaning machine which When the case is assembled, I can quickly determine if a case can handle up to 20 watches at a time. With it, I have been is or gold and whether it should be polished. able to double my volume. However the new machine forced When all the movements are separated from thci 1 me to modify my repair procedure, so that I could keep up cases, the movements are disassembled and inspected. The with the efficiency of the new machine. I was having trouble keeping track of which watch went with which case and which bezel went with which back. With twenty cases and movements, trial and error matching is ridiculous. Worth The movement holders in the cleaning machine are numbered from 1 to 20. It seemed logical to coordinate all other identification systems with this. I purchased from the hardware store, four plastic its "nut and bolt" boxes and twenty brass washers. The plastic boxes are about 3 in. x 4Yz in., have a hinged cover, and are divided into six compartments. Each compartment was num­ Wait bered to correspond to a position on the cleaning machine Are you getting maximum movement holder. The brass washers were stamped with recovery at top prices for your numbers from 1 to 20, using a number punch set. The washers scrap? were then attached to large paper clips. Some precious metal buyers To use this system, a watch is taken from the "work offer quick settlements; how­ ever, we feel your scrap lot is to be done" box. The movement is removed from the case, worth taking a little moreJime briefly inspected, and put in the first unoccupied compart­ to get you the best results. ment of the plastic box. The paper clip and washer, having the Which do you think you same number as the compartment just filled, is attached to the deserve? watchband or around a spring bar (if the stra:• is leather). Write for our The case back is scratch marked with the same number found FREE Scrap Purchasing Schedule

Shipping containers and labels furnished on request Try Us For ... HARD TO GET WATCH PARTS Large Inventory • Fast Service • Appropriately Priced ®o , DEPT HT Call Toll Free: 800-525-3715 In Colorado Only: 800-332-3843 l}lf/Ml INC. ' VICKSMAN JEWELERS, Inc. 1 0803 COMPOSITE DRIVE, DALLAS, TEXAS 75220 5805-A PEACHTREE CORNERS E.. NORCROSS, GA 30092 P.O. Box 8226 Denver, CO 80201 1725 VICTORY BOULEVARD, GLENDALE, CA 91201 •

July 1982/Horological Times 43 movements then go into the movement holder and dials, hands, and other nonmachine cleanable parts stay in the ,~WI Bench Courses 1982 plastic boxes. With every part numbered and identified in this manner, it is an easy task to reunite all the proper parts. PROGRAMS INSTRUCTORS I have had up to 60 watches and cases disassembled at one A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jaeger time and have had no trouble in reassembling them. I don't, B AWi Certified Citizen Quartz however, recommend that anyone purposely cause such a Watch Technician Carpenter situation . I use this system to avoid trouble, not to cause it. C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton Two minor points about the above: the plating c (b) ESA/ETA Quartz Analog Broughton on the paper clips seems to have a reaction with ammoniated D AWi Certified Seiko Quartz solutions, resulting in a black mark on the watchband. I have Watch Technician Smith never found this to be a problem; it usually comes right off. E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson Since compartments 21-24 are not used, I find them F Fundamentals of Solid State Watch ideal for storing those mysterious loose parts that occasionally Repair Opp appear in the cleaning machine. In this way , I can keep them G Repairing the ESA 900.911 with the correct batch until I determine where they go. Digital/Analog Biederman This method is not exclusively my own invention. H Clock Restoration Benesh I did a lot of talking to other watchmakers before finding a I Introduction to Striking Clocks Baier system I was comfortable with. Especially helpful was Dexter J Common Sense Quartz Elliot of Sycamore, Illinois. Watch Repair Bishop

Ralph, my system is very similar to the one you use, but with a few modifications. I use clear plastic boxes with hinged covers, but they have 18 compartments in them. They can be bought from supply houses or tackle shops. They are roughly JULY 8~ in. x 4~ in. and l~ in. deep. Model No. A-200 is manufactured by Vf,CFIEK 11 B Kansas City, MO Carpenter Plastic Co., Middlefield, Ohio 44062. The compartments 11 F San Francisco, CA Opp in this model are solid. Model No. 05406 is manufactured by 17-18 H AKRO-Mils, Akron, Ohio 44309. The cross dividers can be Boston, MA Benesh snapped apart to change compartment size. I prefer the solid compartments, because small screws get under the adjustable dividers and are hard to find. AUGUST I use two sets of plastic boxes to keep up with the movements and parts. The dirty watches are put in one set 21-22 H Minneapolis, MN Benesh until they go into the cleaning machine. Dials, crystals, gaskets, etc., stay in this box until the movements are reassembled. After the movements are cleaned, dried, and demagnetized, the balance wheel assembly and screw are placed in the second set of clear boxes in a corresponding compartment, along with SEPTEMBER the watches that are not run through plastic lubricant. 11 J Sacramento, CA Bishop Instead of washers and paper clips (which sometimes 12 J Portland, 0 R Bishop come off and stain bands and bezels), I engrave the numbers on the head of a safety pin. and hook ir rhrough a band being cleaned by itself or through the bezel when rhe band is le/1 on and the crystal has been removed for cleaning. Safe1y pins are brass plated and won 'l srain the article being deaned.

Send your tips to: Jingle Joe, 265 North Main St., I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE Mooresville, North Carolina 28115. PRESENTED ON AT ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- . PLEASE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- SEND ME MORE INFORMATION.

USED WATCH MOVEMENTS Send for List of Bargains G & G's MIRACLE HOUSE 5621 W. Hemlock St., P.O. Box 23234 Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53223

44 Horological Times /July 1982 New Building In Dallas

interests in the United States for many international institu­ tions, corporations, and individual investors, is a wholly owned subsidiary of Societe Privee de Gerance, a financial holding company based in Geneva. For Rolex Texas Realty, SPG International (Texas) Inc., is in charge of site election, negotiation of the acquisi­ tion of the property, selection of the architect and supervision of construction, leasing, and management of the property.

BOOK REVIEW (Continued from page 42)

informational and illustrational material.- However, Tyler has been one of the first of his countrymen to collect, research, and communicate with his overseas counterparts. While this book may have been written as a guide for the British collec­ tor who has begun to appreciate American clocks, it should seven-story, 100,000-square-foot office building with be equally informative to the American enthusiast for its Aan elegant chrome reflective glass and granite exterior refreshing perspective. will be developed by SPG International (Texas) Inc., for Henry B. Fried Rolex Texas Realty on a 172-acre site on the North Dallas Tollw;iy. 'rn~ The office building is in a strategic location, close to one of the most elegant suburban areas of Dallas in the NOTICE Oak Lawn/Park Cities area. The Rosewood/Hunt project, It is the policy of Horological Times to give proper credit for which is adjacent to the Rolex building, has been designed editorial contributions to the magazine. by the noted architect Philip Johnson. It has come to our attention that a piece of artwork Rolex Texas Realty is an affiliate of the Rolex Watch which appeared on page 24 of our May 1982 issue was not properly acknowledged. We thank the Hamilton Watch Co., Inc. Company. The Rolex Watch Company will occupy a portion of Lancaster, PA for the use of the illustration of a watchmaker. of the building as a customer service center and the remainder The Editors of the building will be offered for lease. Sinclair Hui of Har­ wood K. Smith and Partners, architects, is the designer of the new office building. The building will contain a dramatic seven-story SINCE 1877 atrium and an unusual lobby clock fountain. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL The Rolex Watch Company is a subsidiary of Rolex 220 West King Street, Lancaster, Pa. 17603 Industries, headquartered in Switzerland. Rolex has a major Offers you the most comprehensive courses in: customer service center in New York City at Fifth Avenue and Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing 53rd Street. A Rolex spokesman said this second center will Jewelry Repairing and service the many Dallas owners of Rolex watches. Send for free brochure An Equal Opportunity Facility SPG International, which represents real estate

NEW! BB CRYSTAL PRESS COMBINATION The "BB 505" combines the BB Crystal Press plus the BB 508 straight wall fixtures.

For CLOSING CASE BACKS & INSERTING GENT SIZE RING CRYSTALS BB 505 .. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·······Only $78.00 Additional Fixtures Available - Ask Your Watch Material Supplier

AMERICANPERFITCRYSTALCORP 653 Eleventh Ave., NewYork,N.Y. 10036

July 1982/Horological Times 45 Scholastically Speaking/Thomas H. Imai

Horological Instructors

he REC Seminar for instructors of horological schools The faster learners move through information more effective­ T is scheduled to last four days during our annual meeting. ly, and slower learners are able to spend the time necessary to During that time the instructors will learn new techniques to master the required material. This type of teaching will really serve the watches that will be produced by the manufacturers help the instructors. It may take a few years to set up the for the next two years, as well as upgrading their current system, but once this has been accomplished, one need only skills. The knowledge these people bring back to their schools to add to it. will be invaluable. We have found from the feedback we have Electronics is a must at this time. Almost all watches received from former students who are now in the field , produced by watch manufacturers are of the quartz, LCD, that the information they receive as a result of the seminars and analog type. Companies such as Watchmakers of Switzer­ is very important. land, Seiko, Bulova, Citizen, Rolex, and Omega arc producing As instructors, we have an obligation to provide the new timepieces. Each of these timepieces are different from student in horological science with the best methods of the others. They are available in several shapes, the most teaching available. Some of the mediums being utilized today common being round, square, and tonneau. We know that are demonstrations, slides, and video tape. After horological watches always come with instructions. It is our belief that students graduate, the first obstacle they will encounter is it instructions would be covered by a small cassette video, the job interview. Many become very discouraged at this there would be a lot of savings in printing material. time. The only wise words of encou ragement are patience, The electronic field has been involving any person who patience, and more patience. has an electrical background. Instructors who teach electronic The instructors of today cover such topics as mechan­ watch courses are in great demand in this industry since it is so ical watches, making parts, turning wheels, tuning hairspring, diversified. Those instructors who have been keeping up with poising, jeweling, and in the end, putting the watches in first electronics need not wo rry, but for those who have not , now class shape. There are several electronic watches on the market is the time to get started. As each day passes, some new area today. Clock repair is edging its way into the electronics in electronics opens. For example, up to now the integrated and jewelry repair fields. circuit has been made from inorganic material, but quite Instructors, what is your load? If you have fifteen possibly the chips will be made from organic material - then students, you have fifteen different questions to answer in look out! These chips will be l/lOOth the size they are now a one-half hour period. The results of a survey conducted and anything can be stored on them. If the chip is in a watch, throughout the country found that horological instructors the energy cell will be made smaller and the dial on the watch have a minimum of ten students. If you have ten or more will be a computer screen . All memory stored in the chip can students, you might want to take advantage of microcom­ be brought to the screen . This includes not only th e time of puting your lessons on a computer. This has become a valu­ day , but any material that has been stored in it since it will able aid in instructional design . By command mode of the mi­ be capable of storing anything. The energy that would be crocomputer, information is displayed on a viewer. This type needed will come from mi crolasers. All chips arc now flat , of instruction has been shown to enhance the learning process but with this new method, the chips could be three dimen­ for students so that they may learn at their own rate of speed. sional. More is corning, so keep alert and ready! 'rl.'.; Fl

"If you have ten or more students, you might want to take advantage of microcomputing your lessons on a computer. This has become a valuable aid in instructional design. By command mode of the microcomputor, information is displayed on a viewer. This type of instruction has been shown to enhance the learning process for students so that they may learn at their own rate of speed."

46 Horological Times/July 1982 European Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Fair Exceeds Expectations

he 10th European Watch, Clock and Jewelry Fair exhibitors. Two-thirds reported sales were in the satisfactory T which ended recently in Basel, Switzerland was held to good categories. Many trade buyers expressed serious in­ during a troubled time in international trade. The slowdown terest in the merchandise but did not place an immediate in economic conditions, plus additional uncertainty due to order because of the current economic situation. possible changes in the rates of exchange, and the shortage Quartz crystal analog watches were the most popular of currency in many countries created an attitude of appre­ items in all categories. Special emphasis was also given to hension among exhibitors and buyers as well. It was, there­ elegance and personalized styling. Aesthetics played an impor­ fore, a pleasant surprise to find that the large majority of tant part in most of the sales in both watches and clocks. exhibitors reported satisfactory, and even very good results The clock sector and its related branches achieved approx­ from the ten-day event. imately the same results as last year. A total of 1,411 exhibitors came from 17 countries More than half of the jewelry displays experienced to display their merchandise at the Fair. Some reported fewer the same or better results than in 1981. Jewelry in the middle buyers but stated that the sales made were often above last range category did not do well. Sales of pearls and precious year's level. Buyers from 105 countries throughout the world stones stayed at about the same level as last year. The greatest were in attendance. interest was generated by gold jewelry. Silver items met with At the traditional press conference, the representa­ less demand, but showed strength in the middle-priced range tives of the various national groups expressed their opinions for gifts and cutlery. as follows: Federal Republic of Germany: The 107 exhibi­ The next European Watch, Clock and Jewellry Fair tors from the German horological industry presented a mixed will take place April 16 to 25, 1983. This will be the last reaction. The clock manufacturers reported generally better event to be held in conjunction with the general Swiss In­ results than those in the watch sector. The flood of watch dustries Fair. The EWCJF plans to become an autonomous units from the Far East apparently has had a major adverse exhibition in the future. ur:::JE effect on the world market supply. Clock display attendants noted a growing demand for replicas of period model clocks. Watches with gold were a popuar item in the watch sector. France: The French watch and clock exhibitors judged the results as slightly better than last year. They attributed much of the outcome to loyal customers of long standing FOR WATCH MATERIALS from Europe and North America. The jewelry displays did a brisk business. 65% of them recorded an increase in business TOOLS at this year's show. Buyers from such countries as Japan, Hong Kong, Australia, and the Middle East were highly visible FINDINGS in addition to the usual attendance from North America. CASTING SUPPLIES Great Britain: The 50 British exhibitors once again rated the show a success. On the spot orders and post-fair business promises indicated that the event would meet or exceed expectations for both watches and jewelry. CALL US! Switzerland: The show activity was better than Nationwide Toll Free Number expected for the majority of the Swiss watch and clock 1-800-231-0143 Texas Toll Free Number Ge1n City College 1-800-392-6910 The School with Time For You Choose courses in watch and/or clock repairing, engraving, Formerly jewelry-diamond setting or jewelry store management. ciiV1cira. Stanley Donahue Co. Great Career Opportunities Be A Professional ~T 6one 600 N. Shepherd, No. 101 Work Anywhere Craftsman Houston, Texas 77007 New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. Placement service for graduates. Write for Free Bulletin WRITE OR CALL FOR GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCHOOL FINDINGS AND TOOL CATALOGS SCHOOL OF HOROLOGY OF WATCHMAKING 4 ; 2 8 Main Stxeet Quine)', Illinois 62301 Kansas City, Misso4ri 6 4 111 (217) 222-0391 (816') 931-5522

July 1982/Horologica/ Times 47 False Alarms Create Problems

he growing number of false alarms, mostly emanating T from private homeowner systems, has created a negative You can assemble this attitude from many local police departments which can superb French Great Wheel impose additional expenses on retailers and may even jeo­ Skeleton Clock with just a pardize their security, according to Jewelers of America basic set of hand tools. No Chairman, Michael D. Roman. special skills or knowledge "Police departments are reportedly starting to charge needed-only patience and for their response to a false alarm ,"Roman explained. "Even common sense. worse is the fact that many police departments are adopting Add a new touch of a policy of not responding at all after a specific number grandeur to your home with these full-size clock of false alarms." kits in solid brass, created According to Roman, JA is getting an increasing from authentic original number of such reports, and the issue was discussed at a recent designs. With fully meeting of JA's and Security Committee. machined parts and "The basic problem is that homeowners' security clear instructions you can produce systems are generally of a lower quality than a jeweler's the nearest thing to a genuine antique clock. system, and the rate of false alarms in private homes is quite Good at timekeeping. A fine invesanent too. Send for our high," explained Roman. "However, the local police depart­ free color brochure now. ments are treating the jeweler and the homeowner alike, which Classic Clocks Inc. l is impractical, if not dangerous." Dept.HT/! P.O. Box 1604, Fort Worth, JA's Insurance and Security Committee arrived at im­ Texas 76110. Te~ephone: (817) 292-7828. portant preventive measures for individual jewelers to under­ ' take immediately. "The local jeweler should meet with police depart­ ment officials to be certain that he is treated in the same manner as the local bank. He should clearly explain the type of security system he has and, if possible, define the differences It's about tiJDe ... between his and a homeowner's setup. "At the same time, he must make an intense effort to convince the police department that he and his store must be The Digital ~ considered separately from homeowners and even from - other retailers because of the unique nature of his business," Electronic Roman continued. "The time for a jeweler's effort to reinforce local Watch policy of police protection is before an emergency occurs," Tum M. Hyltin Roman concluded. "From a national standpoint, JA already Formerly of Texas Instruments sees signs of a growing problem, and it is our responsibility to alert our industry." 'ilCil3

224 pp, ill us, G .x 9, Sl9 95

It 's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE technical guide to help you keep up with the digital Learn Jewelry Technology/Watch Repairing watch revolution. Here, in this one book, you'll find all Gemology for the Jeweler/Jewelry Store Operation vou need to know about how they work, how they're •State Supported designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford • Low Tuition Rates COURSES OFFERED: to be without this handbook, written by one of the •Journeymen Instructors Watch R

48 Horological Times/July 1982 Attention Horologists ... Did You Know That More Than 20 BUSINESS BUILDING BENEFITS Can be YOURS for Only $2.50 a Month! (Payable. $30.00 Annually)

The basic purpose of the American Watchmakers Institute is to encourage and assist the horologist to improve his technical skills, his income and status . It is our aim to bring to the horologist the most up-to-date information available on developments in all facets of the industry. At the same time, AWi conducts all the public relation functions that are so vital to a profession; these involve both the public and governmental sectors.

The American Watchmakers Institute shows its members new ways to solve problems, provides them with individualized technical assistance, and promotes their general welfare.

Sign Up NOW for Numerous Benefits!

• 24-Hour Hotline •Vocational Brochures • State and Local Affiliation

• Technical Bulletins • Technical Services • National Publicity

• Certification Program • Employment Service • National Public Relations

• Technical Seminars • Film and Slide Service • Affiliation with Schools of Watchmaking

• Membership Certificate • Monthly Magazine • Industry Advisory Board

• • Library and Museum • Advertising Assistance

• Annual Meetings • Packard Collection • Home Study Course . . . and more.

------~------application for membership AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

Enroll me immediately so that I can take advantage of the benefits of A.W.I. membership. Here is my $30.00 for annual dues.

Name (please print) ------'------Address City ------State ------Zip Code ----- Please check: Watchmaker 0 Watchmaker-Jeweler 0 Clockmaker 0 Other______Retail Jeweler 0 Student 0 If you are a member of a guild or association or school. please indicate: Name of Organization or school------­ lf you are certified. Indicate: Type of Certificate ------Number ------News in the Trade

WOSIC APPOINTS SCHULTHESS

After fifteen years of faithful VARTA BATTERIES twice the space for executive first ask them what they would service, Mr. Franz E. Pasteur, GROWS INTO NEW personnel and administrative like us to make that they feel Vice-President of the Watchmakers FACILITIES equipment. To improve customer will sell best in their stores. of Switzerland Information Cen­ Varta Batteries, Inc. has more service, a key addition will be I assure you that Bear's relation­ ter, Inc ., retired recently. Jean­ than doubled the size of its U.S. a computer center which will ship with our retailers shall be Pierre Savary, President of the headquarters operations in Elms­ provide complete order entry, a close and cordial friendship . center, recently announced the ford, New York. According to inventory, and shipping control. I am confident in the days to appointment of Mr . Rodolphe M. Arthur Muti, President, Varta's In conjunction with this come, that a sincere, mutual Schulthess as Vice-President in annual growth of 25% to 40% move, Mr. Muti also states that respect for each others problems replacement of Mr. Pasteur. Mr . over the last several years neces­ the Varta field sales management and abilities will result in an Schulthess will devote his time to sitated the move . staff will be expanded to provide enrichment of our relationship maintaining a close relationship The new location on Clear­ closer day-to-day contact with and make it endure." between the Federation of Swiss brook Road, Elmsford provides sales representatives, distributors, Watch Manufacturers with head­ three times as much warehouse and key accounts. Jerry Hahn quarters in Bienne, Switzerland, space for greatly increased stocks The new address is Varta and the American and Canadian of batteries for the photo, watch, Batteries, Inc., 150 Clearbrook watch trade. hearing aid, and rechargeable Road, Elmsford, NY 10523. Mr . Schulthess spent two battery market. In addition, a (914) 592-2500. years in training with the Feder­ much stronger initial-delivery cap­ ation in Switzerland, with an ability will be provided for batter­ emphasis on activities in foreign ies for all electrical, electronic, BEAR NAMES JERRY markets. He is a graduate of the and computer equipment manu­ HAHN AS MARKETING University of Lausanne with a facturing industries. VICE-PRESIDENT Master's Degree in Economics. The new offices provide Mr. K. Ueno, President of Bear Co., Ltd ., Tokyo, Japan and Mr. Rodolphe M. Schulthess Allen Wollman, Executive Vice­ President of Bear Enterprises U.S.A., jointly announced the appointment of Mr. Jerry Hahn as Vice-President in charge of Marketing and Advertising for the United States. Mr. Hahn will be in charge of formulating the Marketing and Advertising plans for a series of NEW INSTRUCTOR AT new jewelry products which shall OHIO WATCHMAKERS be introduced by Bear in the U.S. INSTITUTE in 1983. Mr . Hahn's headquarters The 0 hio Watchmakers Institute, will be in Bear's U.S.A. offices Cincinnati, Ohio, recently an­ in Monsey, New York, where he nounced the appointment of Cliff will be associated with Mr. Johnson as instructor. Johnson has Wollman who is the Managing Di­ initiated a drive to contact all the rector of all Bear operations in alumni of the school. The plans are the U.S. In addition to the U.S., to form an alumni organization Bear has branches in Switzerland, and hold a reunion sometime in France, West Germany, and Hong the Fall. All alumni are asked to Kong. send in their name, address, and "I have long believed," year of graduation so that they Mr. Hahn states, "that if we are can be kept informed of future to ask retailers to sell our pro­ plans. Send to Cliff Johnson, P.O. ducts, then certainly we should Box 731, West Chester, 0 H 45069.

50 Horological Times/July 1982 MAJOR MANAGERIAL In addition to Weber's responsi­ Texas . Students receiving certi­ The Bulletin, with a controlled in ­ PROMOTIONS AT SEIKO bilities tor Watch Assembly func­ ficates of graduation in cere­ ternational circulation of 33,500 Major new managerial promotions tions, he will now direct the acti­ mon ies held recently were from copies, is the world's largest have taken place at Seiko Time vities of the After Sales Depart­ 10 different states and one circulating horological publica­ Corporation . Seiko is the U.S . ment and the Virgin Island foreign country, said Paul Clay­ tion. Ms. Smith joined the NAWCC marketing organization for Seiko Facility. ton , Chairman of the Division staff in June, 1980 . She is a watches and clocks. Anthony Rodriguez, Gen­ of Horology and Jewelry Tech­ graduate of J. P. Mccaskey High Announced by Mort Gersh­ eral Manager, has been named nology at PJC. School and holds a Bachelor of man, Executive Vice-President, Assistant Vice-President of Bulo­ Funded through a grant Arts Degree from Franklin and was the appointment of Joseph va's Clock Division_ from the Texas Education Agency, Marshall College. Sindt, to General Manager of the "We have to think fast the gemology program was es­ Sales Service Department. He and react quickly," stated An­ tablished at PJC in 1978 to meet joined Seiko in 1975 and has drew Tisch, President. "Planning the needs of the jewelry in ­ served Seiko in various capacities_ for the future requires making dustry . Donald Maley, General the right decisions today, and SUMMER CATALOG Manager Service Division, also we've developed a management FROM MARSHALL­ announced the promotion of Scott organization that's highly astute SWARTCHl LD Chou, as Manager of the Tech ­ and effective in keeping pace ASSOCIATE EDITOR Marshall-Swartchild Company has nical Services Department. Earlier, with present and. fut.ure trends." NAMED AT NAWCC issued a new 1982 Summer he held the position of Associate Amy J. Smith of Lancaster Catalog which shows numerous Manager Technical Support for has been promoted by the Nation­ new items, as well as offering four years. Jonathan Frankfort al Association of Watch and Clock special values in jewelry, jewelers' has also been promoted to Manager 27 GRADUATE FROM Collectors, Inc. (NAWCC) from supplies, watch materials, and of Material Sales Department. PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE Editorial Assistant to Associate tools. Copies may be obtained Previously, he held the position of Garvey House, a certified gemolo­ Editor of its two bimonthly for $1.00 from Marshall-Swart­ Assistant to the General Manager gist and owner of House Jewelry publications, the Bulletin and the child branches in Dallas, Houston, since 1980. in Paris, gave advice to 27 students Mart . Her new duties include San Francisco and Seattle, or who graduated in the 11th supervision of the ed itorial de­ requested by mail from Marshall­ professional gemology program partment at the Association's Swartchild, P.O. Box 726, at Paris Junior College in Paris, Columbia, PA world headquarters. Chicago, IL 60690 . ·.: ·. : i ' PROMOTIONS ARE PART OF BULOVA'S PLANS Christopher Lawson of Liverpool, England (left), one of 27 graduates of Paris Junior College's gemology The Bulova Watch Company, program, talks with the guest speaker, Garvey House of Paris, a certified gem ologist and owner of House announced today that as part Jewelry. Lawson was the only stude.nt in the recent graduating class from out of the country , but those of its long-range plans in creating graduating were from 10 different states. and supporting a highly efficient corporate organization, a number of important promotions have been instituted . Jean Straub has been pro­ moted to the Assistant Vice­ President and Director of Manu ­ facturing_ In addition to his responsibilities for the Providence Watch Case operations, Straub will direct the activities of the Bienne, Switzerland facility. Paul Suppa has been ap­ pointed to Assistant Vice -Presi­ dent and Director of Materials Management and Administration. In this capacity, Suppa will be responsible for Requirements Planning, Purchasing, and Product Planning. Robert Weber has been promoted to Assistant Vice-Pres­ ident and Director of 0 perations.

July 1982/Horological Times 51 New Products and Literature

JADOW ANNOUNCES NEW WATER TORCH

B. Jadow and Sons, Inc. is pleased PROTECT-0-WATCHrM to announce the availability of At last! A product so practical, the new Vigor Water Torch it sells itself! The finest, most Instrument, BT-700. The Vigor delicate watch now becomes im­ BT-700 Water Torch is a two­ pervious to crystal damage with station, two-torch unit with both shatter-proof Protect-0-Watch:M torches to be used simulta­ Perfect for on-the-job watch wear­ neously. The Water Torch gen­ ers, or for weekend lumberjacks. erates the fuel needed using the From Timex to Rolex, any principal of the electrolysis of watch worth wearing is worth distilled water, breaking down the protecting from costly watch molecular composition of the case and crystal damage. water into two parts hydrogen Strong, lightweight and and one part oxygen. This is a clear, Protect-0-Watch™ fits most most ideal, clean fuel. New Water Torch from Jadow men's watches. It is made in the The fuel is generated only U.S.A. and comes with a full used in most public places with­ clock bearing a Reed's Tonic when called for at a pressure of warranty. For more information out violating local codes. advertisement, "Reed's Gilt Edge less than one pound, thus elim­ contact RAS Industries, Inc., 389 The Vigor Water Torch Tonic Cures Malaria and In­ inating the need for storage . Smith Street, Providence, RI Instrument, BT-700, can be ob­ digestion." It is believed to date The flame is self-fluxing, and 02906. (401) 331-7309. tained from any of the regular from around 1870. Many other therefore, little or no pickling is wholesale supply houses through­ interesting examples are included needed to complete the job. out the country for $995.00. in the show. The gas passing through the fluxer The exhibition continues is responsible for the ultra-clean through October, 1982. For fur­ flame . ther information about the ex­ Using the fluxer solution as SIGNS OF THE TIMES hibition or the museum, write to: supplied will produce a flame of The National Association of 1982 Exhibition, NAWCC Muse­ approximately 2000° F, and using Watch and Clock Collectors Mu­ um, Inc., Box 33, Columbia, PA acetone will produce a large, seum in Columbia, Lancaster 17512 or call (717) 684-8261. cool flame approximately 1700° F. County, Pennsylvania, has opened There is no catalog of the ex­ Using MEK (Methyl-Ethyl Ketone) its fourth annual summer ex­ hibition . will produce a flame of approxi­ hibition, "Signs Of The Times: mately 3000° F. The Clock As An Advertising The BT-700 is supplied Medium." with twelve assorted size tips. Its The clock has served as an shelf size is 18 in. long, 9 in. advertising medium from the wide, and 11 in. high with 110 moment that an unknown 15th volts (220V available). century clockmaker placed his NEW ADEC WATCHES No longer must you be name on the dial of the first ADEC Watch, Inc., a subsidiary burdened with empty tanks, or domestic clock. Previously. as of Citizen Watch Company, Ltd., must you purchase or lease tanks. early as the 13th century, clocks recently announced the intro­ They have eliminated the usual were only used in churches or duction of eight new models of gauges which often create pro­ other public buildings. electronic quartz watches. blems. No need to change elec­ The exhibition, however, The newest additions to trolyte (fuel) - just check the with few exceptions, deals with the rapidly expanding ADEC line level and add distilled water, the clock (or watch) used as are priced at the popular $50, it needed. a medium to market a product $40, and $30 points. According The flux recommended pre­ other than the item bearing to Frank J. McMahon, Vice­ vents torch tip clogging. Flame the advertisement. The date of President and General Manager size (tips) may be changed in the first such use is unknown. of ADEC, "All the models com­ seconds. The torch tip does The earliest piece in the exhi­ bine an attention to craftsman­ not get hot. This unit can be bition is a miniature grandfather ship and durable design that

52Horologica/ Times/July 1982 assures retailers an extraordinarily much larger capacity for varied low rate of return." He added, uses. The new model 7652 is fully "This new group of models is transistorized, self-contained, and an important addition to a line provides the user with a 5-1 /2 that we expect will win us a gallon liquid capacity and an out­ major share of the U.S. market put of approximately 450 watts. for popularly priced watches." Because the self-contained unit Two of the new models has a tank measuring 19-5/8 in. offer a combination analog and x 11-1 /2 in. x 6 in., it can accom­ digital display; three models fea­ modate a great many implements ture analog displays; and three and is extremely versatile for the are digital models. vast majority of industries using For further information ultrasonic cleaning . Order through contact ADEC Watch, Inc., 1200 your local distributor. Wall Street West, Lyndhurst, NJ 07071. (201) 438-8898_

A Su n dial b y Sundials Austra li a

an explanatory booklet on how adjusts the gas flow, the other is sundials operate. The sundials are for flame size. offered in many sizes from pocket The Freedom Torch has its models to memorial pieces several own small butane tank built into feet in diameter. They are cast the handle. Refilling is fast and - ",...... _ in gunmetal bronze or etched easy. A special fitting built into into highly polished, specially the handle accepts low·cost, easily rolled brass sheet. obtainable butane gas cylinders Make inquiries to the (the ones now used to refill Office Of The Australian Trade cigarette lighters, and available R-SERIES POWER TOOLS Commissioner, 636 Fifth Avenue, anywhere). FROM FOREDOM New York, NY 10111. The Freedom Torch is guar­ R-Series Power Too Is with RC-1 anteed for one year for defects Foot Control highlights the im­ in materials or workmanship. proved performance of Foredom's EASY-TO-USE Complete operating instructions A-Series machines. The new foot RENEWED INTEREST JOFRE FREEDOM TORCH come with each Freedom Torch. control assures smooth, precise IN SUNDIALS The Jofre Freedom Torch, a new Additional information is avail­ control in all speed ranges. The In an era when tiny quartz chips easy-to-use, completely portable able from Friedheim Tool Supply R-Series fractional horsepower are at the heart of many time­ soldering torch has been intro­ Co., 412 West 6th Street, Los machines feature an electronic pieces and watches sound alarms, duced by Friedheim Tool Supply Angeles, CA 90014. (213)628-4174 feedback circuit providing con­ count laps, calculate the grocery Co. of Los Angeles. stant speed and torque under bill, and yes, even tell time, a The torch will reach tem­ varying loads. Ask for brochure nearly forgotten method of time­ peratures of up to 2300° F, perfect No . 285 from the Foredom keeping is enjoying a new burst of for nearly all soldering jobs, Electric Company, Bethel, CT popularity. yet it weighs only ten ounces 06801. Sundials are again finding and is completely self-contained. favor in many countries, accord­ The Jofre Freedom Torch re· ing to an Australian company, quires no dangerous bulky fuel Sundials Australia, which is cater­ tan ks, expensive regulators, or -FOREDOM ing to this renewed interest with R-Series Power Tools with restricting torch hoses. NEW RC-1 Foot Control a range of handcrafted sundials Other features of the torch individually computed for the are: a built-in, easy-to-start igni­ latitudes and time zones of the tion system, which lights the areas in which they are to be torch at the touch of a button; installed. precise flame adjustment is ob­ NEW CLEANING SYSTEM Sundials Australia, based tained by setting controls located FROML&R in Adelaide, also makes custom­ on the torch face; and all controls Mr. James Lazarus, President of ized, special order sundials incor­ are well placed, and easily ad­ L & R Manufacturing Co., Kearny, porating names, emblems, coats justed by fingertips even while New Jersey, announced the intro ­ of arms, quotations, or other operating the torch. Two controls duction of a new ultrasonic legends. The company provides make adjustment simple, one cleaning system designed with a

July 1982/H orological Times 53 Classified Ads

CLOCK SERVICES wheels, gears, barrels, Regulations and Rates retoothing, repivoting, mainspring winding, bushing, jeweling. Send sample for estimate. Ads are payable in advance $.40 per word, $.50 pe r word in bold type. Ads SASE. Roy H. Niegel, CMC, CMW, 21837 Woodbury, Cupertino, CA 95014. (408) are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to 253-4927. edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. February issue WATCH REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: AC­ closes for copy on January 1.) CUTRON, STEP-MOTOR QUARTZ, DIGITAL ANALOG & MECHANICAL. The Watch­ Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011 , Cincinnati, OH 45211. (513) 661-3838 Repair Shop, 2616 Kendall Ave., Madison, WI 53705. 1-608-231-3606. TRADE WATCH REPAIR. STEP-MOTOR, QUARTZ ANALOG, MECHANICAL, ACCU­ TRONS. 32 YEARS EXPERIENCE_ GEB­ CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS for platforms, HARDT'S WATCH REPAIR, CMW, P. 0. BOX ship's clocks, pocket watches. Since 1922. Watch repair for the trade. Contact Little 207, NORTHUMBERLAND, PA 17857. (717) SASE for information. James Bourne Co., Switzerland, Ltd., Swiss Wat chmakers and 4 73-3149. P.O. Box 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Jewelers. P.O. Box 3195, Hilton Head Island, SC 29928. Phone (803) 785-7661. LED & LCD MODULE REPAIRS complete CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING module repairs on all Bulova, Pulsar, Hamil­ Fast Service - Write for free brochure and THE QUARTZ SPECIALISTS. All services on ton, Gruen, Elgin & Waltham, Benrus, and non­ price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, Analog, LCD, LED. Free information packet. brand name modules. E & M Associates, 109 TX 75060. McBee Laboratories, 302-D So. 16th, Bozeman, Bank St., Waterbury,CT06702.(203)753-5715. MT 59715. Help Wanted QUALITY WATCH REPAIR FOR THE CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, TRADE. Mechanical. stepmotor quartz, digital, repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J.C. and analog. Also do bead and restringing Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHl, 1039 Rt. Outstanding Opportunity - Clockmaker is and jewelry repair. Price list available on re­ 163, Oakdale, CT 06370. needed in one of Virginia's fastest growing clock quest. Carpenter's Watch Repair, P.O. Box 14 7, shops. Outstanding opportunity for individual Tarboro, NC 27886. (919) 823-2944. who is looking for career and wants to live in QUALITY CLOCK REPAIR OR RESTOR­ one of the south's outstanding growth cities. ATION. FAST WHEEL AND PINION CUT­ Excellent Benefits including Health and Quartz watch repair exclusively for the trade. TING, repivoting, etc. Parts made to order. Accident insurance, Major Medical insurance, Prompt service. LED, LCD, and Analog. Robert Send sample for free estimate. No watch paid vacations, and paid holidays. For more B. Linder, 213 Taylor, P.O. Box 304, Ryder­ parts please. David Arnold CMC, CMBHI, information contact Joanne Cossaboon or Joe wood, WA 98581. Phone (206) 295-3624. 556 Ann St., Elgin, IL 60120. (312) 695-1689. Pacino, The Clock Shop of Richmond Ltd., 6000 W. Broad St., Richmond, VA 23230. (804) 282-0331. Mechanical Watch Repair only . We Guarantee Special fit crystals made to order. Quality Repairs. Free Estimates. Jack McCarthy, 1224 watch repair, tuning forks, step motor quartz, South Pacific, Oceanside, California 92054. electronic balance, chronographs, one year Situations Wanted guarantee. Special problems are no problem. Seven to ten day service at reasonable prices. Quartz Watch Repair for the trade. LED, LCD, A/A Watch Repair, P.O. Box 866, Coventry, and Analog. Miami Valley Time, 294 7 New RI 02816. (401) 821-2822. "Watchmaker" 1st class seeks position in So. Germany Trebein, Fairborn, Ohio 45324. Calif. Antique watches, Chronos, Autos, Elec­ Phone (513) 426-5523. tronic & Quartz. Best of references. Con­ You! Have tried the rest - Now! Try the best tact: "Watchmaker" 1130 2nd St., Manhattan for your custom made Horological and Instru­ Beach, CA 90266. (213) 379-3277. Skilled Watch Repair. Bulova VClO cleaning, ment Parts and Tool repair. Precision Instru­ MU700 timing machine. Have opening. Con­ ment, P.O. Box 70004, Charleston, SC 29405. tact for information. Charles Bunkelmann, Phone (803) 553-1198. Wanted To Buy 1410 Sunset Ridge Dr., West Bend, WI 53095. Phone (414) 338-3770. PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs Waltham 16 size Vanguard 21 jewel lever set. on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. Movement only, no hands, case, or dial. Call Pearl and Bead Restringing_ All types. Fast Prompt service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. or write, Marfice Jewelry, 119 West Third, service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007. Washington Street, Chicago, IL 60602. 312- Maryville, MO 64468. Ph. (816) 582-5571. 1279 Inglis Ave., Columbus, Ohio 43212. 236-8052.

IMMEDIATE CASH PAID!!! Old Mine and Old DIAL REFINISHING, CRYSTAL FITTING & Clock repair material and tools. Manufacture of European cut diamonds. Especially needed: WATCH REPAIR. 48 hour service on Dial Re­ clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, Stones over 1 carat. Ship with phone number finishing & Crystal Fitting. Finest Quality. weights, all types of brass and steel stock and for highest offer, or call Mr. Neff, (404) 938- QUANTITY works welcome. Send your works custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00; 0744. W. F. N. Enterprises, Inc., HT, 2300 to: Kirk Dial & Crystal Co., Rm. 625, 4th & Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio Henderson Mill Rd., NE, Suite 318, Atlanta, Pike Bldg., Seattle, WA 98101. 44201. (216) 94 7-2268. GA 30345.

54 Horological Times/July 1982 STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-New or Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, American pocket watches, movements, cases, used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Unimats (accessories also) Maximats, Sherline, material and tools for sale. Write for list. Want Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, Cowells, Enco, the Maximat Super Eleven. to buy watchmakers tools, American pocket coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. Lathe Catalog $1.00. Precision tools inch or watches, related items. Dashto Horological Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2300 Henderson metric, aluminum, brass, steel, all shapes, Services, 5296 Fairfield Shopping Center, Mill Rd., N.E., Suite 318, Atlanta, GA 30345. miniature screws, taps, drills, saws, collets. Tool Virginia Beach, VA 23464. (804) 495-2414. Ph. 404/938-0744. catalog $1.00. Campbell Tools, 2100M Selma Road, Springfield, Ohio 45505. Phone (513) 322-8562. Repairmen Attention! Selling IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, all necessary tools and equipment including Platinum, any form! Immediate top dollar cash Seitz Jeweling Tool (mint); Swiss Mainspring gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ Winder Sets; Deluxe lnverto Staking Tool offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400-DAY complete; highly jeweled American pocket Ship insured/registered mail to: American ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­ watch movements & parts; Swiss Master balance; Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, Brand new Timing Machine; Custom-made 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407. P.O. BOX 172, SANTEE, CA 92071. Lathe tools, more. Send your name, address, and telephone number. I will call you to discuss sale. David Bredow, 10927 E. 27th St., Tulsa, Oklahoma 74129. For Sale For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ ers, Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All Special - Men's Lizard Grain Leather Straps - machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also Miscellaneous $2.25 each. Write for listing. Floro Distributor available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. 12-08 15lst place, Whitestone, NY 11357. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. mond, Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. offers training and instruments for servicing all Territory: Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio, Tennessee, types of digital watches. Course includes Portescap VC-10. In mint condition. Elebash and western Pennsylvania. diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair Jewelry Co., c/o Watch Repair Dept., Pensacola, methods, including techniques in wire bond FL. Call (904) 432-5136, ext. 14. repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, 18 size French "Royal Exchange" London Zantech, Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, NJ 575, Heavy 18kt. Hunting Case. Fuzee Move­ 08619. (609) 5 86-5088. ment, Diamond Endstone, Excellent Condi­ You Make Jewelry Steam Cleaner. Under tion, runs. $100.00. Plans $4.00. Bruce Hanks, 114 Mc­ COMBINE 1982 WORLD'S FAIR - Smoky Kinley Ave., Kellogg, Idaho 83837. Mountains - Secluded Mountain Vacation WANT RESULTS? Home halfway between Knoxville and Gatlin­ burg. Near Cades Cove. Hiking, trails, lake ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, TRY A CLASSY AD! nearby. (615) 982-0141 day, (615) 983-0316 Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is night. made easy by step-by-step procedure. Each small step of removing and replacing each part and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. No concentrated study is necessary. $200.00. Write EOG, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 2nd Edition 45211. A complete manual on CLOCK MOVEMENTS - All types of new movements, repair parts and clock tools. the repair of Complete catalog available for $3.00. South­ LED and LCD west Clock Supply, Inc., Dept A, 2442 Walnut watches Ridge, Dallas, TX 75229.

by DIGITAL WATCH BUTTONS. 50 Assorted LOU IS A. ZAN ON I command buttons. $19.95 including postage. 109 Bank St. Waterbury, CT. 06702. (203) $19.95 753-5715.

This 76- page, handsomely printed and easy-to-read version contains all of the practical NOTICE! information of the original plus added features, including a glossary of electronic terms NEW CLASSIFIED AD RATES and milli ampere hour battery chart. This fully illustrated "How to do" manual covers Due to our rising costs, a rate increase the most frequently encountered repairs required of both the LED and LCD watches. for classified advertising will go into The information in this book is fundamental and pertinent to all quartz watches. effect September 1, 1982. The new FREE with order: "The Digital Watch Troubleshooting Guide" rate will be $.50 per word in regular type, $.60 per word in bold type. This will apply to all classified ads except Send check in the amount of $19.95 to: those presently on contract, which Horological Times, P. 0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 will be protected until their expir­ ation dates. Name_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- Address ______~

City /State/Zip ------

July 1982/Horologica/ Times 55 Dates To Remember Advertisers Index !

AMERICAN PERFIT. . - ..... 45 JULY AWi...... 41,48,49,55

BOREL CO . . - 13 3-9-Christmas Gift Show; Dallas Market 21-23-Jewelers International Showcase; Miami BOWMAN .. • 45 Center; Dallas, TX Beach Convention Center; Miami Beach, FL 1B-21-Southern Jewelry & Gift Show; Hyatt CAS-KER CO . .Inside Front Cover Regency Atlanta Hotel; Atlanta, GA 21-25-Seattle Gift Show; Seattle Center CLASSIC CLOCKS CO. . 48 (including Flag Pavillion), Exhibit Hall; 18-23-95th California Gift Show; Los Angeles Coliseum and North Court; Seattle, DuMOUCHEL ART GALLERY . 17 Convention and Exhibition Center; Los WA Angeles, CA r ESSLINGER CO .. - 3,40 24-28-JA Fall International Jewelry Trade SEPTEMBER EWING CO ... . . 7 Show & Convention; Sheraton Centre & New York Hilton Hotels; New York 11-12-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers As­ City, NY sociation; Annual Convention and Trade G & G's MIRACLE HOUSE. . 44 Show; Best Western Airport Inn; Des GEM CITY COLLEGE. . 47 30-Aug. 1-Watchmakers Association of Ohio Moines, IA GERMANOW-SIMON Convention; Marriott Inn; Columbus, . 34 5-6-Mid-America Jewelry Show; sponsored OH GOULD CO .. . 27 by the Ohio Jewelers Assn .; Convention 31-Aug. 5-lndependent Jewelers Organization; Center; Cincinnati, OH Stouffer's Hotel and Cincinnati Con­ B. JADOW CO. - -4 vention Center; Cincinnati OH 5-10-Dallas Market Center Fall Jewelry Show; JEWELMONT . . 34 Market Hall and Hotel Anatole; Dallas. TX KIENZLE TIME . 31 10-13- G LOA Tucson Gem Show; Marriott KILB CO . ... . 40 Hotel; Tucson, AZ L & R Mfg. CO . 21 19-21-Twenty-eighth Phoenix Gift and Jewelry S. LaROSE ... . 24 Show; Phoenix Civic Plaza; Phoenix, AZ AUGUST MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD 28,29 OCTOBER MAXELL ...... 11 7-11- San Francisco Gift Show; Moscone MEDIA DIGITAL. 27,41 Center and Trade Show Center ; San 2-4-Arizona Jewelers Assn. Convention;Tucson, Francisco, CA AZ MEREMINSKY. . 16 MIRA CO ...... 47 8-10-Jewelers of America Chicago Inter­ 2-4-Pennsylvania Jewelers Assn. Convention; national Jewelry Trade Show and Holiday Inn; Greensville, PA OHIO SCHOOL OF Conference; Expocenter and Mart Plaza; WATCHMAKING. . 20 Chicago, IL 11-15-Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair· Hotel Miramar; Hong Kong ' 13-15-American Gem and Mineral Suppliers PARIS COLLEGE . 48 Association Pasadena Gem, Mineral, and 17-Massachusetts and Rhode Island Jewelers POLLACK WATCH CO . 42 Assn. Annual Convention; Lantana's Jewelry Show and Sale; Pasadena Con­ PORTESCAP . . . 5 vention Center; Pasadena, CA Restaurant; Randolph, MA

17-18-Central Illinois Watchmakers Association SEIKO .. . . Inside Back Cover 14-16-Fall Pac ific Jewelry Show; Century Annual Convention; Townhouse North SWEST CO . . . 43 Plaza Hotel; Los Angeles, CA Motel; Morton, IL E. SWIGART CO . . 25

TWIN CITY . •• •• Io"••' o • o o' • o . 42

VICKSMAN . . 43

ZANTECH . .•..• . .•. .. .•....•. 35

56 Horological Times/July 1982 The best way to keep up with whats happening is through the company that~ making it happen.

Everything you need-technical information, special equipment, parts and materials- is available to you.

1. The Seiko Technical Library: Six volumes containing case numbers. And the "Seiko Replacement Screw everything about repairing watches. For mechanical Assortment," with 60 of the most popular sizes, three of each watches, it's all-inclusive, and designed to put all the facts at kind, for most bracelets, clasps and safety chains in the entire your fingertips. Includes a Technical Guide to all basic Seiko Seiko line. All with alphanumeric reference. movements, a Watch Parts Catalog, a Parts Interchangeability 5. A full line of Seiko Parts and Batteries. To help you List and a Casing Parts List. For quartz information, there is a perform the basic maintenance and repairs that keep your sampling of Analog and Digital Quartz guides as well as the customers happy, and keep extra sales coming in. Parts Pak current quartz casing catalog. Binders and Seiko Parts and Batteries available througb 2. The Seiko Microfiche System. Saves you time, space and Seiko Material Distributors. mone , too. By storing the equi alentof 4258Y2''x11" a ta log For more information on how to order, mail in the coupon pages on one 3" S" grid. E ery grid titled and alpha­ below. numerica l! inde ed foreas reference accessibility. Making important technical data and previou ly unavailable infor­ mation readil accessible and ea ily stored in a minimal space area. SEIKO 3. The New Seiko Quartz Tester. QT-99. A revolutionary Seiko Time Corporation HT-7-82 Information Control Department timing rate measuring instrument, utilizing a sophisticated 555 West 57th Street microcomputer system . Measures the timing rate for quartz New York, New York 10019 crysta l, tuning fork and jewel-lever ~ loc k s and watches. The Please send me more information on the subjects indicated. I want rate i digitally displayed when the timepiece is placed on the to keep up with what's happening. Check desired information: microphone. l~ al o the onl quartz tester that accurately - Technical Library -Parts and Batteries measure the timing of Seiko Caliber 99 watches (Twin -Microfiche System -Free Seiko Battery Replacement Quartz). Simple and idea 1for after-sales seNicing of/. u t about -Quartz Tester Manuals and new Seiko Case every kind of clock or watch, and a powerfu tool for -Handy Parts Pak Servicing Guide promoting the sa les of uperbly accurate Seiko Quartz clocks Binder Assortment (while supplies last). and watches. 4. The Seiko Handy Parts Pak Binder Assortment. Three convenient replacement parts kits that can be purchased Tir llll------separately or as one combined unit. Includes tl1e NSeiko Store Name'------Battery Hatch Ga ket A sortment" totaling 72 gaskets in 16 differentsizes, fitting175casenumber . The#SeikoSpring Bar M ir"-''-' ------

Assortment" includes 100 spring bars covering 20 of the most (1 t r·------~ ; ,11 c..n ____ z1,0---- popular spring bar izes, th at fit li.terally hundreds of Seiko This comprehensive course is designed to equip today's watchmaker with the HAVE YOU HEARD? basic skills and understanding required to successfully service modern elec­ tronic watches. The course consists of the following seventeen lessons : THE Lesson 1 Theory of Magnetism AMERICAN Lesson 2 Bench Work with Magnets WATCHMAKERS Lesson 3 Dry Cells: Voltage and Amperage Lesson 4 Using a Meter to Measure Voltage INSTITUTE Lesson 5 The Theory of Electron Flow and Ohm's Law Lesson 6 Using Meters to Measure Current and Resistance Offers a Valuable Lesson 7 How Magnetism Can Generate Electricity Lesson 8 Generating Electric Pulses at Your Bench HOME STUDY COURSE: Lesson 9 Introduction to Diodes and Transistors Lesson 10 Experimenting with Diodes, Transistors, and Capacitors MICRO-ELECTRONICS Lesson 11 The ESA Electronic Watch, Calibre 9158 Lesson 12 Electronic Principles of the Accutron FOR Lesson 13 Quartz Crystals and Electronic Reduction HOROLOGISTS Lesson 14 Bench Practice on the ESA 9180 Lesson 15 LED and _LCD Solid State Watches Lesson 16 Bench Practice on the LCD Solid State Alarm Watch Lesson 17 Summary

In addition to the written lessons, students will be involved in serv1c1ng two electronic watches, i!S well as working with concept teaching kits. AWi will provide the watches and kits. This course will prepare individuals for the AWi Certification Examination of CERTIFIED ELECTRONIC WATCH SPECIALIST. Course Price : $250.00 Time payments can be arranged with $50.00 down payment and ten successive payments of $20.00 per month. To receive your course information booklet, send a mailing label to: MICRO-ELECTRONICS COURSE FOR WATCHMAKERS HOME STUDY DEPARTMENT P.O. BOX 11011 CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211

HOROLOGICAL ~ Saving your TIMES® ~

we have the answer for protecting and organizing your magazines. This leather-look binder holds 12 issues (that's one volume) and is an attractive addition to any library, office or home. No longer will you have to search for that March '79 issue, or wonder if the January '81 went out the door via the last paper drive. All issues can be i01serted as you receive them. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $8.95 to:

HT BINDERS P.O. BOX 11011 CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211

Allow 3 weeks for handling and delivery.