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C O NT Al NG A D Ea c m a u N o r T E E MO UME S AN um Es N NT , a , G LER IES c m mc s s A D c o Es C P I LS AL , u N um sm or B O T H A TA ; T H E JO UR N EY B Y MO NTE p Ass o AND T E E P O NT IN E MAn sn T s ; I C LU D I G A MAP o r R OME o r T E E E V I RO S AND E Y N N , N N TW NT

AWE V I E S E LY E GR V ED . or TEE P R I C I P L O U E S W , N W N A N A M N M NT .

C AREF ULLY V IS D ND L R E E , A EN ARG E D WIT H AN AC CO UNT O F T H E LAT E ST

ANT IQ UARIAN R E SEARC HE S.

RO ME i 844.

sow B Y O N M ALDINI , EN GLI SH LI B RARY AND REA D I N G B OO M P lAZZ A D I SPAG NA N . 79 .

B ®E ZEI E E MQ Q E E§ ®q

GENE RAL IN T H E SERV I C E O F HER B R I TANNI C MAJE ST Y

ET C . ET C . ET C .

Wi th the View of facilit at i n g t o t hose en gl i sh t ravellers Who may n o t b e fam i liar With the i tal ian l an guage a kn owl edg e o f t he mo numen ts of an c i en t and mo de rn

‘ Ro me , I have b ee n i nduced t o publi sh an e n s e rs o n o f t he wo r k o f Va gli h v i si , cor rect e b the at e rofe sor N d y l p s ibby , ’ « o r » e nt it led Guida di Ro ma e de con t n i . In addi t ion to the i n t e r est in g m att er t reat e in t he o r n a c has een d igi l , Whi h b r en er e in a a n un r e t en n st e d d pl i p di g yl , t his ve r sion con t ai ns a descr ipt io n o f t he e t ruscan an d egyp t ian muse ums at t he Vat can of t he o e sk a ue uct an i , b li s , q d s d xv Wo rks execut ed in an ci ent an d modern t imes in t he Po n t i ne mar shes ; t he jour n e o f Ho r ace t o e b T ac na an d y , h s y er r i Mo n t ecassin o a de cr i t i on o f a e , s p N pl s , i ts immedi at e en vi r on s o f the t emples at Paest um an d t he ar ch o f Tr ajan at n n o B e e v e t . I have r esolved t o place this Wo r k unde r yo ur auspice s in conse que n ce o f your lon g acquai n t ance wi t h allt he oh j ect s con cer n i n g wh i ch it t reats ; ﬁn di n g it likely t o b e useful I ﬂ att er myself that you will b e disposed t o assist in p roeu r i n fo r it a fa o a e r e ce t ion g v r bl p . Wi t h s en timen ts of the highe s t r es pect and consider ation I hav e t he ho no ur t o b e

o b . e Your obliged and m st o ed s rv.

V ENANZ I O MO NALD I NI . PREFACE BY NIBBY .

asi r e uested me to cor r ect In 1 81 8 the late M. V q his wor k on the t opogr aphy an d mon ume n t s of he r e s e t ue t o the an cien t an d moder n Rome . T p c d author in duced me mer ely t o e lface mistak e s an d to in ser t i n the n ew edition the most r ecen t dis cover ie s made i n the an cient t opogr aphy of t he f the mon um n ci ty an d the actualstate o e ts. After the death of V asi I pub li shed a newe dition r i n 1 824 in hich I com leted ha of this wo k , w p w t had b een commen ced i n 1 81 8 an d made so many chan ges that exceptin g the me thod , whi ch i s ar lthe same thi s e dition ma b e co n sider ed n e y , y h f our ab le r e as an e ntir ely newwork . T e av cep m t ith an d the r e fer e n ce i t has tion i t has e w , p in e other r k s on the same sub ec t ob ta e d ov r wo j , induced me t o pub li sh n e wedition s i n 1 his las t b n h ted I n u and 834. T ei g e x aus owp b lish one mor e comple te an d mor e exact than h F e sh is e i ha t ose that have pr e cede d. r d cov r es ve lately b een made i n the t opogr aphy of an cien t Rome an d i ts envir on s ar ticular li n the for um , p y and on t he e as ter n side of the Capitolin e hill; histor ic mon umen ts ar e thus daily b r ought t o light and we now t r e ad on the same soilas the n s i h gr e a t me of an tiquity . At the ame t me t at unk no n mon umen ts ar e thus disc er ed th e w ov , os that fallt o r uin ar e k ept i n a state of r epair a

V II E P R E F A C .

A o n to the o inion most ene a lladmitted cc r di g p g r y , e b Romulus a escen dant o Rome was foun d d y , d f o the Alban kin s in the 75 3 ear E neas an d f g , y e it wa o i in a llli befor e the chr istian er a . Th c y s r g y mited to the P a latine hillthe Capitolin e was added a ter the r a e o the Sab in e women an d then the f p f , va lle se ar a tin those two hills b ec ame the or um. y , p g , f uma the s cce so o Romuls enclosed a N , u s r f u , a the i in t the c Ate the destr uc p r t of Qu r alwi hin ity . f r tion o Alba b Tullius Hostilius o Tellene Ficana f y ; f , and P olitor ium b Ancus ar tius the Cwlian an d y M , Aven tine hills or med ar t o the cit an d wer e eo f p f y, p o en pled by the in habitan ts of those town s. A wo d br id e ca lled the ublician celebr a ted or the va g , S , f lour o Cocles was th own ove th iver a n d a ci f , r r e r , a t delwas built on the Ja niculum by Ancus Mar tius. Ser vius Tullius en larg ed the city by en closing the r emain der ofthe Quir in alas wella s the Vimin a lan d the Es quilin e; he sur r oun ded it with walls composed ofsquar e blocks ofvolca n ic tufo for tiﬁed it with an a er or r am ar t extendin r om the uir in a lto gg , p , g f Q the a r ch of Ga llien us on the Esquiline ; the seven hills an d a smallpar t of the Janiculum wer e thus enclosed within a ci c it o ab t ei h mile r u f ou g t s. Though the city had g r eatly en cr ea sed in the er iod that ela sed r om Servius to Aur elian the p p f , cir cuit of the wa lls r emained the sa me; b ut this em er or with the view o r e ellin or ei n invasion s p , f p g f g , r aised a n ewlin e ofwa lls which wa s completed un der

P r obus in 2 7 6 . Vo iscus a con tem or ar wr iter p , p y , v m P r eface. a sser ts that these walls wer e 50 miles in cir cuit , an exten t which would appear ex agg er ated ifwe did n ot take into con sider ation the size o the cit an the f y , d den se population which n a tur a lly occupied the ca ita lo wor ld an d in fa ct the r uin s o the bl p f ; , f pu ic b uilding s a lon e cover so larg e a space ofg r oun d that within the pr esent en closur e it would b e impossible to ﬁnd r oom for pr iva te houses to r eceive the la rg e po pula tion ofthe ancien t city . Ofthe wa lls ofAur elian n o tr a ces r emain ; those of thepr esen t day e mbr a cing 1 6 miles in cir cumfer en ce ar e of a per iod pos ter ior to that emper or ; their most an cien t par t does o the time o Hon or i s 02 n ot go b ey nd f u in 4 . On the r ight bank of the Tiber the wa lls a r e al ether moder n the Vatican n ot havin b een tog , g en c losed un til852 b Leo I V to de en d the chur ch o y , f f ’ P eter s a ainst the Sar acens. The s ace occu ied S. g p p by the moder n city is ab out on e thir d of that en c losed within the walls ; the other two thir ds consist

he ar den s vin e ar ds and villas. ofkitc n g , y Of the twelve g a tes of the moder n city eig ht ar e on the left b an k of the r iver viz : the F laminian or delP o olo Salar ia Pia S. Lor en zo Ma ior e p , , , , gg ,

lo. O nn i S. Seb astian o an d S. P a o n the 5 . Giova ,

b n k ar e the P or tese an d S. P an cr azio Ca r ight a , ht o he mo e v a lleggier i an d Ang elica . Eig f t r an cien t tes e closed viz : the P in ciana Vimin a lis g a ar , Latin a Ar deatina Fabbr ica P er tusa Metr onis , , , , and Castello. The Tiber passes thr ough Rome in a dir ection

h to south. Ther e ar e our b r id es the fr om n or t f g , lJ l sto lian or S, An e o an icu en se or Si F a br i E g , , cian or Quattr o Capi an d tha t of G r atian or

lomeo. Thr ee a r e in r uins : the Vatican S. B ar to , li a P a latine an d Sub ci n , l Pr eface. x

Servius Tullius divided Rome into four quar o s the a la tin a Subur r ana Es uilin a ters or r egi ne : P , , q

stus into 1 viz : I. Ca ena and Collina . Augu 4 p

limontan a III. Isis and Ser a is I V. Via II. Cx , p ,

cr a V Es uilin a VI . Alta Semita VII. Via Lata Sa , . q , , , lminius o a m IX . Cir c us F a VIII. For um R m nu , ,

li m XI. Cir cus Ma ximus X II. P iscina X . P a at u , ,

blica XIII. Aventina an d X I V. Tr anstiber ina . pu , t cit a lso is divided in to 1 4 Rioni The pr esen y , o Tr evi Colonn a Cam o Ma r zo P on te viz : M n ti , , , p , , lli i n e e ola S. Eustachio P i n a Cam ite P ar o , R g , , g , p ,

An elo i a Tr astever e an d B or o. S. g , R p , g The popula tion of the city a nd its sub ur bs e accor in o the cen sus o 1 838 to amount d , d g t f

souls. Thoug h plun der ed a n d bur n t a t differ en t pe r iods Rome has alwa ys r isen liken the phenix out of ls c m s a tues an d other h i s. The obe isk olu ns t er r u n , , m ster ieces o ar t the r emain s o an cien t tem les a p f , f p , ium halar ches thea tr es am hithea tr es ther mx tr p , , p , , tombs an d a queducts ar e the unr iva lled or namen ts

of this metr opolis. Ma ny of the moder n edifices a r e n ot infer ior in mag nificence to those of an tiquity ; a t ever y st ep ar e sum tuous chur ches ex tensive a la ce con tain p , p s , in va luable collection s o a in tin a n d scultur e g f p g p , fountains villas lled with an cien t an d moder n , fi o I two bli wor ks f ar t. n pu c museums a r e united master ieces o e tian etr uscan r eek an r oman p f gyp , , g d

scultur e. B r ama nte Ra hael ichaelan elo an p , p , M g d other emin en t ar tists have embellished the city with

their wor ks. Monuments ofa llag es collected her e have r en der e Ro e e t o e e In he n mb d m the s a fth ﬁn ar ts . t u er ofher liter ar y establishmen ts ar e the Univer sity or C amei mosaics scultur es aintin s en , p , p g , g r a vin s si lks cloth ar ti ci alear ls str in s or mu g , , , ﬁ p , g f sieulin str umen ts beads etc. constitute the i i al , pr nc p ob o t a j ects f r de. Char itable establishmen t a b ou i ome in s n d n R , depen den tly of those suppor ted by for eig ner s for the use o their coun tr men . The si k a e ecei a o f y c r r ved , c or din to the n a tur e o their cam laints in the g f p ,

ls . ol hos ita o S S ir ito . ia omo the ons a p f p , S G c , C l o n z e o n . l ion , S. Gi van i Later a n o S G a ican a d

och. the n ume o s a lms or the oor the S. R Of r u sy u f p

r in ci ala r e S. Michele the P i e Istituto di Car itd p p , , the Con ser va tor io of the Men dican ti for females and the house of the orphan b oys. At Rome the ca tholic r elig ion displays all“ her n t In o cit can the cer emonies Splen dour a d maj es y . n y o he holweek o caster o the Cor us omini f t y , f , f p D , e w h thos o the . e er an o r istmas vi it e ofS P t d f Ch , f Vatican

(1 ) O n th e charitable in stituti on s o f t his city the th e n o f on n o Mo ric hin i r e ade r may c o n sult Writi gs m sig r , o r th e B e min isce n ces of R om e ; an d o n th e Papal c er emo n n t he on o f the e n i e s the ir o rigi n an d m ea i g , publicati s v ry Mo n n o e n e th e elthe R e v. sig r Baggs titl d papal chap , c e re m on i e s of holy week and th e pon t iﬁcalmass sung at ’ S . P et er s . XI CHRONOLOGY

OF TH E R O MAN EMPERO RS.

O ctavian Augustus fo un ds the e mpire aft er t he vic d t ories of Philippi an Actium 30 ye ars before th e chri s tia n e r a an d his e e a e n 44 e s le e , at d ath , aft r r ig of y ar , av s

T e s his s esso . . I ib riu as ucc r A D X V. A. D . 4 1 Tib eriu s .

37 C aligula . 41 C laudius .

54 Ne ro .

6 8 Galba .

69 O tho .

Vit elliu s .

V espasia n . 9 7 Titus . 1 o i 8 D m tian . 6 e 9 N rva .

9 8 Traja n . 1 1 7 Adria n . 1 38 n n n A t o i u s . 1 1 6 Marcus Aur eliu s Lucius Ve rus . 1 81 o o C mm dus . 1 n 93 Pe rti ax . B idi a s Julia n us . Sept imius S e v e rus . 1 98 A n t on i n us Caracalla Get a .

2 1 7 Macr in us . 2 1 8 H eliogabalu s . 2 22 Alexa n d e r S e v eru s . 235 Maximin us I . 237 Gor dian us I and Go rdianus II . a Maximus B lb in us. 23 8 G o r dian us III .

244 l and son . Phi ip , fathe r 249 De cius . 251 Gallus and Volusianus . xn Chr onolo o the r om gy f an emper or s.

25 3 Emilian us .

e n Val ria us . G e n alli us . 26 8 C l s audiu II . 27 0 eln Aur ia . 275 T acitus an d Florian . 2 76 o Pr bu s . 2 82 Caru s . 3 2 8 C ar in us and Numer ian . 284 o le Di c tia n . 2 Ma 86 ximian .

305 Con sta n tius Chlo ras and Maximian . on a 306 C stan ti n e t he gre t . Max n e t ius .

3 Maximin s 08 iu II . in Lic ius . 337 on n s an e and on stan us . C sta n tine II , Co t c C ti 1 h n 36 Ju a . 363 Jo via n

lens. 364 Val en ti n i an I and Va 367 Gratia n . 3 7 5 Val en ti n ia n II . 9 3 7 Th eod osius I .

383 Arcadiu s . 3 H 39 on o riu s . Th eo dosius II . 42 1 C o n sta n c e II . 425 Vale n ti n ia n III . 4 50 Marcia n .

455 Av it us .

457 Majo r ian and Leo. 46 1 Lyb ins Se ve rus .

467 An th e mus.

472 Olyb r ius . 473 Glyc e ri n s . 474 Ne p os an d Z eno . ned the followm 475 Romulus or Augustnlns , dethr o g ustulus n of h H uli. it Au y e ar by Od oace r ki g t e er W h g ended the wester n empire . X I I I C HRONOLOGY

O F T H E P O P ES

O . FROM S. PETER T T HE P RE SENT D AY

A . D .

4 e e of B ethsais in lle R o e . 5 S . P t r Ga i a m

n s n . 65 Li . Tu ca n an 78 A n acl e t . Ath e i .

9 1 C l e m en t I . R o ma n .

e e . 9 6 Evarist e . Gr k

1 08 Al exa n d e r I . R o ma n .

1 . 1 9 Sixtus I R o ma n . 1 2 ele h or 8 T S e . e p Gr ek .

1 H in n . 39 yg . Ath e ia n 2 1 4 . Pius I Aquile ia . 1 n 57 A ic e t . Syria n .

1 6 . 8 Sot e r C ampa n ia .

1 E e 7 7 l uth e r e . Gr e ek .

1 93 o . Vict r I Africa n .

2 2 h r . 0 Z ep y in R o ma n . 1 2 8 R o n . Callixtus I . ma

22 U n . R o n 3 rba I ma .

23 on n . 0 P tia us R o ma n .

2 n r . 35 A th e e s . Gr ee k

n n . 236 Fabia . R o ma

n . 250 C or n elius . R o ma 2 52 Luc e I . Lucca .

253 St eph en 1 . R o ma n .

n . 257 Sixtu s II . Ath en ia

e e . 259 Den is . Gr k

R o n . 269 F elix I . ma

T s n . 27 5 Eutychia n . u ca

2 l . 83 Caius . Da matia X I Cr on olo o he o V gy ft p pes .

20 ellin s . a 6 Marc u Ro m n .

3 M el. Ro 08 arc I ma n .

1 E e . 3 0 us bius Gr e ek .

Melchiad e . Africa n .

4 i R o n . 31 S lve st e r 1 . ma

I R n . 336 Marcu s . oma R n 337 Julius I . oma .

2 R o n . 3 5 Lib e riu s . ma

355 Felix II . R o ma n .

ma u . 366 D a s s I Spa n iard .

R o n . 385 Sir ice . ma

39 8 A n astasius I . R o ma n .

4 . 01 In n ocen t I Alba n o .

1 . 4 7 Z osimus 1 Gr e ek .

41 n o n . 8 Bo ifac e 1 . R ma

n I n . 422 C eles ti . C ampa ia

n . 432 Sixtu s III. R oma

e T s n . 440 Leo I th gre at . u ca

n . 468 Ilari o . Sardi ia

o l. 47 1 Simpl ex . Tiv i

o n . 483 Fe lix III . R ma

n . 492 G elasius I . Africa

n . 496 A n astasius II . Ro ma

n i . 498 Symmachus . Sardi a

F n o ne . 5 1 4 Hormisdas . rosi

523 J ohn I . Tusca n .

n i e . 526 Felix IV . Sam t

o n . 530 Bon ifac e II . R ma

o n . 532 John II . R ma

R o n . 435 Agapit I . ma

n . 536 Sylver ius . C ampa ia

R o n . 538 Vigil . ma

R o n . 555 Pelagus I . ma

o n . 5 60 John III . R ma

R o n . 574 Ben edict I . ma hr o olo o h C n gy f t e popes. X V

ela u . 578 P g s II R oma n .

9 e o or th 5 0 Gr g ry I e gre at . Roma n .

4 n n . le 60 Sabi ia B r e .

7 on e III. R 60 B ifac om e .

08 o n e . M e 6 B ifac IV ar s . 1 ed 6 5 De usd it Rom e.

1 9 l. 6 Bon iface V . Nap es

25 Hon s . n 6 oriu I Campa ia .

R man . 640 Se v eri n us . o n l o . J h IV Da matia . 41 e 6 Theod or e . Gr ek .

649 Marti n I . Todi .

e s R . 655 Eug n iu 1 . oma n

ln . 757 Vita ia Segn i .

2 eo s . 67 Ad datu Roma n .

7 o n . R m 6 6 D m us I o an .

on . 678 Agath Sicily .

2 o . 6 8 Le II Sicily .

4 en . 68 B edict II R oma n .

6 5 o n . 8 J h V Syria .

68 C on on . 6 Sicily . 7 e 68 S rgius I . Syria .

7 1 o n . 0 J h VI Gre ek .

5 o n I . e 70 J h V I Gr ek .

708 Sisin us . Syria .

n n n Co sta ti e . Syria .

7 1 e o . R 5 Gr g ry II oman . 73 1 e o I I Gr g ry I . Syria .

41 Z acch ar iah . 7 Gr eek .

752 e en . R St ph II oma n .

757 l. Roma Pau I n .

7 68 e n I l. St phe I I. Sici y 7 72 n R o n . Adria I . ma 795 Le I o . II R oma n . 81 6 e en I R n . St ph V. oma X I Chr onolo V gy of the popes.

81 n 7 Pa scalI . R o ma . 24 E n . 8 ug e ius II R oma n .

82 e n n e e o . 7 Val ti , Gr g ry IV R oma n . 44 8 e . S rgius I I R o ma n .

847 Leo IV . R o man .

85 n R n . 5 B e edict III . oma

8 N o 1 . 5 8 ich las R om an .

6 n . R o n 8 7 Adria II ma .

8 2 o n . R n 7 J h VIII o ma .

8 2 M n o r n . 8 ari I Marti II Tusca n .

' a 884 Adria n III . R o m n .

o . 885 St e ph e n V . R ma n

1 R n . 89 F o rm o s e . o ma

96 on e e e n . Ro n . 8 B ifac VI , St ph VI ma

7 m a . 89 R o n I T usca n .

1 o n . n T o . 89 8 Th e o d o r e 1 . R ma J oh iv li

9 00 B e n e dict . IV . R o ma n .

e . 903 Le o V . Ard a

o n . C hrist o ph e r . R ma

I R o n . 904 S e rgius I I . ma

n . 9 1 1 A n astasius III . R oma

a n e . 9 1 3 L n do n . Sabi

R n . 9 1 4 Joh n X . ave n a

928 Le o VI . R o ma n .

R n . 929 St e ph e n VII . o ma

n . 9 31 J oh n XI . R o ma

R o n . 936 Le o VII . ma

n . 939 Ste ph e n VIII . G erma

Ro n . 942 Mari n II o r Marti n III . ma

man . Agapit II . Ro

R o n . 9 56 J oh n XII . ma

R o n . 964 Leo VIII . ma

n . 9 65 J oh n XIII . R o ma

R o man . 972 B e n edict VI .

man . 9 74 D om n u s II. R o

l xvm Chr ono ogy ofthe popes.

1 1 8 r or III. en e e 7 G eg ygV B v n t o.

e en III . R m n Clm t o a . 1 1 9 1 Celesti n III . Ro ma n . 1 1 98 I n n ocen t III C on ti . A n ag n i .

1 21 6 Hono s S lli . R o . riu III , a ve m e

1 227 o Co ti . na n . Greg ry IX , n A g i

1 241 le n I n . Ce sti V, Mila

1 243 n n o e n F e h . en . I c t IV, i sc i G oa

1 254 le n e C on ti . n n . A xa d r IV , A ag i

1 2 1 n T s . 6 Urba IV . r oye

1 264 le n F l n doc . e o ca d . e C m t IV, u u La gu

1 2 1 e . 7 Grego ry X . Piac n za

1 27 . 6 I nn oce n t V Savoy .

n Fieschi . eno . Adria V , G a J ohn XX or XXI . Portugal.

1 277 N o s I O r sin i . Ro n . ich la I I , ma

1 281 M n . n t arti IV Mo pin cé .

1 8 n ll m n . 7 Ho o Sa ve i . R o 5 rius IV, a

1 2 i . 47 Nich ola s IV . Ascol

1 2 o n . 92 Ce l e sti n V . Neap lita

1 2 n n i . 94 B on ifac e VIII Ga et a n i . A ag ' 1 e so. 303 Ben e dict XI B occa sim . Tr vi

1 5 C e e n D e Gouth . s on . 30 l m t V, Ga c y ’ 1 31 6 o n D Euse . e . J h XXII , Qu rcy

34 F x. 1 3 B en e dict XII . o i

in . 1 342 C l e m en t VI . Limous

mo n . 1 352 I n n o ce n t VI . Li usi

1 3 2 n D Gr issac . e ud n . 6 Urba V, e G va a

s n . 1 370 Gr e g ory XI . Lim ou i

les . 1 378 Urb an VI F r ig n a n i Nap

l. Toma celli . N es 1 389 B on ifac e IX , ap

. Ab b r uzzi. 1 404 I n n o ce n t VII Me lior ati n it ian 1 40 e o I Cor a r io . Ve 6 Gr g ry XI ,

P hila r e . C e e . 1 409 Al e xa n d e r V , g r t

les . 1 41 o n II Cossa . N 0 J h XXI , ap olo o Chr on gy f the popes. XIX

l . 1 41 7 M n Co on n a Ro e . arti V, lm 4 E en on do er e . ni an 1 31 ug ius IV, C m Ve ti .

1 447 Nicholas V . Sarza n a .

1 455 ll I B or ia . in . Ca ixtus II , g Spa

1 4 8 P i olomin i . en . 5 Pius II , cc Si a

4 4 l B a r b o . e n itian . 1 6 Pau II , V

4 1 D e la Re ver e . o n . 1 7 Sixtus IV, Sav a

1 484 n n o en V Cib o dc Me e . eno . I c t III , lf G a lor 49 n e n z i . 1 2 Alexa d e r VI L o i B g ia . Spa n

' ' 1 III P ic c lz en 503 Pius o om m . Si a .

s 1 1 D e la Ro ve r e . on . Juliu , Sav a

1 1 e Me i . F n . 5 3 L o X , d a s l o re c e

1 22 n l . 5 F lor en t . Ho n d Adria VI , l a

1 523 C e en V Me di is . Flo e n e . l m t II , c r c

34 III F r R . 1 5 Paul a n ese . o m e

1 l 1 1 1 D elMon t . Ro e . 550 Ju ius , e m

1 e F n o . 555 Marc l II Ce r vi n . a

Pa l r a . N le . u IV, Ca ﬁa ap s

h Mln . 1 5 9 s M d i c in i . 5 Piu IV , e i a

’

1 566 Ghislzer i . . Pius V, Liguria

lo n . 1 572 e o B uon com a n i . o Gr g ry XIII , p g B g a

1 85 i P e r e tti . M of n o n . 5 S xtus V , arch A c a

1 590 U n V Ca st a n a . en o . rba II , g G a

XI d . on . Grego ry V, Sf r o n a ti C re m a

1 9 1 n n o e n cch n ett . olo n . 5 I c t IX , F a i i B g a

F e n . 1 592 C le m e n t VIII Aldob r a n din i . lo r c e ' ’ 1 6 5 Leo Me dia s D O tto ia n o . Flo e n e . 0 XI , r c

B o r he s e . R o e . Paul V , g m

’

1 62 1 e o Ludovzsi . olo n . Gr g ry XV , B g a

Flo n e . 1 623 U n V B a r b er in i . e rba III , r c

1 644 I n n o ce n t X P anzphili . R om e .

1 655 le n e V Chi i . en . A xa d r II , g Si a

1 667 C e e n Ro i li osi . T s n . l m t IX , wg u ca y

1 6 lti i . R o e . 70 Cl em en t X , A e r m

1 6 e lchi . M n . 76 Innoc en t XI , Od sca ila XX Chr on olo b the o g y f p pes .

le n e VII t tob on i . en e . A xa d r I , O V ic

n no n I P i n t l. a e li N les . I ce t XI , g ap lb C len XI A . e m t , a n i Urbi n o .

nn o e n C on ti . R o . I c t XIII , m e

e n O r si n i . R o e . B e dict XIII , m

n o i . F C l e m e t XII C r s n i l o r e n c e .

‘

n e XI L mb er t . n . B e dict V, a in i B ol og a

’

Cle en Re zzon zco . V e n it ian . m t XIII ,

e en X I Ga n a n elli . . n elo i n o . Cl m t V, g S A g Vad

e e Pius VI B r a schi . C s n a .

V Chi a r a mon ti . C e en . Pius II , s a

Leo D ellGe n . e XII a g a Spolt o .

i s V Ca sti lion i . C n o . P u III g i g li ‘

e o V C a ella r i . e ln o . o n t h e 1 8 se Gr g ry X I , pp B lu B r p 1 to t he Pa alsee the 2 f t emb e r 765 , rais e d p e

b r uary 1 831 cr owned th e 6 feb ruary . X X I C HRONOLOGICAL C ATALOGUE

OF T H E MO ST C ELEB R A T ED AR T IST S

NAME D IN T H I S XV ORK .

PAINTERS . D ea th B ir t h.

Flo en e . 1 300 1 230 C imabu e . r c

F o n e . 1 336 1 276 G i o tt o . l r e c

. e 1 442 1 40 1 Ma sacci o Fl o r n c e . 1 0 n e n e . 50 1 40 1 B e lli i . V ic

24 o n n n . 1 5 1 4 1 4 Gi va i B elli i Ve n ic e .

a 1 1 430 M n t e g n a . Padua . 505

1 44 o an ucc i il n la e e . 1 524 e e o . i ll 6 Pi tr V , P rugi C t d e a Pi v

e o n o 1 51 9 1 452 L ard da Vi n ci . T usca n y .

4 4 n o . 1 1 3 1 5 Pi turicchi P e rugia . 5

la o . F 1 1 o lo e n . 5 1 469 F Bart ol m e di S Marc o . r c e 7 1 2 1 47 1 Al b e rt Dur e r . Nur e mb e rg . 5 8

’ c a n o F . 1 4 1 474 Mi h el A g el o B u n ar ot t i . lor en c e 56 1 1 477 T itia n Ve ce lli . V e n ic e . 57 6

e B anb ar llil n ln o . 1 5 1 1 1 47 8 G o rg e e i , Gi o rgi o e . Cast e fra c

e e . 4 1 479 Gi o v a n n i Razzi ilS o d o ma . V rc lli 1 55

e . e n 1 53 1 481 Balthasar P ruzzi Si a . 6

en en o Tiﬁ iI o lo . Fe . 1 59 B v ut , Gar fa rrara 5

e n o . U 1 2 1 1 83 Rapha l Sa zi rbi n o . 5 0

1 484 Gio . n ilo e n on e . n . 1 540 Lici ius , P rd Ve ice

1 4 5 e n de lo o . e n 1 4 8 S bastia Pi mb V ic e . 5 7

1 4 . F . 1 528 8 Gio n . e n n iI F o e . F o e n e 8 ra c P i , att r l r c 1 3 A n dr e a delSart o . 5 0

1 4 F n o Pr at i o o n . 1 570 90 ra c e sc im c e . B l g a 1 492 1 54 ilR o n . 6 Giuli o Pippi , ma o 1 4 1 534 94 . A n t on i o All egri , C orr eggi o 2 F o en e . 1 5 8 Mathuri n . l r c 1 561 U . Gio. Nann i . di n e X X Catalo ue o th s II g f i ar tists.

oldo o l i . P y r Ca dar Caravaggio . e o B uon acor si Pier i del Pi tr n Vaga . Tuscany . n lR lli o e Da i e icciare V lt rra .

o o iI e o. n Giac m Palma , V cchi Ve ice . n elo on n o T s n A g Br zi u ca y . o n Giaco m Ba ssa o .

l . F e Fra n c esco Sa viati lor n c e. o o s Giacom R bu ti iI Tin tor etto . V en ice .

z . Gi orgi o Va sari . Are z o

Fr ed eric Barr occi o . Urb in o .

e n . Jer o m Mutia Acquafr edda.

T eo U n o. add Zuccari , rbi

Pa olo Cagliari ilVe ronese .

Fred e ric Zuccari . Urb i n o .

e n i e . Giacom o Palma ilGio va n e . V c

n e . Scipi o Pulso i. Ga ta

si a . F Dom en ico Pas gn ni lor en ce .

Fra n c esco Ba ssa n o .

n . Luici Caracci . B olog a PaulBrill. A n twerp .

a o s e n o . Fr C sim o Piazza . Ca t lfra c

Salim i n . Ven tura b en . Sie a

n o o o n . Ag os ti Caracci . B lg a Micha elA n g el o caravaggi o .

r . A n n ibale C a accn. Bolog n a

s e C e i il li e . no . Giu epp sar , Cava er Arpi

Gio . D e echis . Flo n e V r e ce .

Rapha el . Reggi o di Modena .

Fra n ci s Va n n i . Si ena .

on i . d Bartolom eo Sch ed Mo en a .

o o n . Guid o R eni. B lg a

Pi e rre PaulRub en s . Cologn e.

i o n . Dom en ico Zampi eri IDom enichin o. Bolg a

n n . Gio . La fra c . Parma

. e Ma ssimo Stanzion i Napls . Catalog ue of this ar tists. xxm

en . Carlo Sarac en i . V ice

ati a. 1 588 Gius epp e R ibera lo Spagnoletto . X v

1 i F n . i n . n o . 590 G o . ra c Barbi e ri lGu e rci o Ce t

1 92 Hon o r st e o lle No . U 5 Gerard t , Gh rard d e tti tr echt

1 94 o n D es n el. 5 Nich las Po ussi . A d ys

1 o n o on . 596 Pie tr B e rr e tti i . C rt a

n . 1 599 A n t oi n e Va n dyck . A twe rp

1 600 A n dre a Sacchi . Ne ltun o . ’ e l o n Glaud G ele e . L rrai e . n F Pi e rr e Val e ti n . ra n ce .

2 M n e r 1 60 icha el A g lo C e quozzi. Rom e .

1 6 R e n . e e n 06 mbra dt L yd . 1 1 0 n o . F n 6 Jea B th ra ce .

1 61 2 e F n . u . Pi tr o ra c Mo la . L gan o Luca Gi o rda n o . Naple s .

1 6 1 3 in . Ro e . Gaspar Dugu e t , Gaspar Po uss m

Matthias Pr e ti ilC alabr ese . 1 6 1 v o R o . 5 Sal at r sa Napl es .

1 1 n e n . 6 6 Be ed tt o C astigli on e . G e oa 1 6 1 e o e . 7 Pi tr T sta Lucca .

Gi . F an o o . o r c . R ma n elli . Vit e rb

o o . 1 6 1 8 Bart ol m e Murill o . Siviglia

C o . 1 62 1 Jacqu es urt o i s Burgu n dy .

n o n 1 623 Giaci t Bra di . Po Ii .

1 625 C arl o Maratta . C am e ra n o . l a 28 C ar lo ( i n n i . o o n 1 6 g B l g a .

4 o F R o 1 63 C ir e rri m e .

1 638 Luigi Garzi . Pist o ia .

aa . 1 643 Pi e rre Molyn ilTemp esta . H r le em

T n . R o e . 1 656 Fra n c . re visa i m

1 5 n le . F ole . N s 6 7 ra n c . S im a ap

aulli i B acic cio . n . 1 65 8 Gio . G I G e oa

1 4 a R o . 68 Marc o B en e ﬁ le . m e

r . 1 699 Pi err e Sub ley as . Uzes

1 0 . 7 8 Pomp eo B at t on i. Lucca a talo ue o h X X I V C g ft is ar tists.

1 2 M . 7 8 Rapha elen g s Sax on y .

1 2 n on o . e 75 A t i C avallucci S rm on eta .

o . 1 776 Giusepp e B ossi . Bust Arsizi o

SCULPTORS .

n F . Do at ello . lor en ce

’ on e his o e . F Sim br th r lo r en c e .

1 474 M e n B n a icha lA g elo uo r o t ti . Flo r en c e .

1 4 7 o o F . n o 7 Giac m atti Sa s vi no.

487 n n e . F 1 Bacci o Ba di lli l o r e n c e .

n n o e n . 1 500 B e ve ut C lli i F l or en c e .

u e o . G gli lm d ella Po rta . Mila n

1 24 G i . o o n 5 o B l g a . D o uai . 1 1 e o 5 5 Pi tr Pa ol o Olivi e ri . Ro m e . 2 1 5 o o on n . 5 Ambr gi Bu vici o . Mila n

1 62 e o n n . e 5 Pi tr B e r i i S st o .

1 5 N olC o e o n . 67 ich as rdi r . L rrai e 9 lo G id 1 6 o u o t to . 6 Pa Lucca .

1 n o o . 576 Stefa Mad e r n L o mbardy .

8 M . e . 1 5 0 Fra n c . o cchi Mon t varchi

1 9 e n . n 5 0 Jacqu s Sarazi Noyo .

4 F n 1 59 ra n cis de Qu e s oy . Bruss els .

1 9 o e n . . 5 8 Gio . L r n zo B e r i n i Napl e s

1 2 F n . 60 Giulia n o i elli . C arrara

n . Al e ssa n dr o Alg ar di. Bolog a d F e . Jea n Theo on . ra n c

R li. . 1 605 A n dr e a o g C arrara

o . 1 608 Lazzar o Mor elli . Asc li

Pelso tt o . 1 6 10 Ercol e Fe rrata .

a din i . 1 6 1 4 Pa ol o N l R o m e .

1 6 1 9 Giac o m o Fa n c elli . R o me .

1 624 A n t o n i o Raggi . Mila n .

1 628 D om en ic o Guidi . Massa .

1 44 ° 6 Gius e pp e Mazzu oli . Volt e rra

1 656 Pierr e L egros . Pari s .

a talo ue o xxv r C g fthis ar tists.

elle o elle n . o P gr P gri i B log n a .

G o . Fo n . i n ta a C om o .

o e n o Fon n . om D m ic ta a C o.

o e R Giac m o d lla P orla . o me .

R o . Pi etro Pa olo Olivi e ri . m e

Vi n cen zo Scam ozzi . Vicen za .

lo Ma n o . ss n e Car de r Bi o ar Co m o .

n n . Marti o Lo ghi Mila n es e .

ar lo . e C Lombardi Ar zzo .

. n o Luigi Cardi Ci g li .

F n o on . o lami i P zi o L mbardy .

n n . O orio Lu ghi Mila n es e .

lo R n . Gir o am ai aldi R om e .

Mar tin o Lon ghi . Mila n ese .

. Ro . Gio . Baptist So ria m e

Pi e tr o B e rr e tti n i . C o r lon a.

n n . . Gio . L o r en zo Be r i i Na ples

o n . n . Fra n c . B rro mi i Bis so ear Com o la Alessa n dro A g r di. Bolog n a .

n . R o Carlo Rai aldi m e .

e l. Claud Pe rrau t Paris .

io . n t D e Ro . R . G A . ss i o m e

o F n n . C arl o ta a C o m o .

Matthias D e R o ssi . R ome .

n e n A dr a Po zzi . Tre t o .

i . A n t o i n e D esgode tz . Par s

n . Fra n cesco Gaddi Bibi e n a . Bolog a

R o e . Girolam o Te odoli. m

R . A n t o n i o Ca n e vari . o m e

n . Ale ssa n dro Galil e i . Flore ce

Flen e . Fe rdi n a n do Fuga . or c

R o e . Nicholas Salvi . m

o . Luigi Va n vit elli . R m e

n . Pa olo Posi . Si e a

ss n o . An t on i o Ca n o va . P o ag X X VI I STATEMENT

ES OF WEIGHTS , MEASUR ES AND MONI

USED IN R O ME .

E M ASURES .

e liz 1 2 th Palm o archit ctura v , 60 min ut es of e

Paris foot .

0 9 1 0 . The foot , 7

o 2 63 . Bracci ,

S aiol 9 4. t o 3 , 5

sso 4 585 . Pa , n n 7 Ca a 6 , 87 .

en 39 54. Cat a , h 4 4 T e mile fee t 5 8 . The a n ci en t r o ma n mile Was divid ed i n to 1 000 s te p s

r 50 0 e e a n d t he 5 th o f de e e . o 0 f t , was 7 part a gr Sin c e 1 820 the fren ch system has b een in practic e ; t e i l h e he m tr e s caled t ca n n a archit e tton ica .

LAND MEASUREMENT .

of the fr en ch acre .

the Paris ell. xx m Statement o wei hts me s e v f g , a ur s and monies.

U ME U E E LIQ ID AS R M NT .

B ar r el 32 b ocali 1 28 IO e t le 1 t 3 8 i , ﬁ roma n c o ub ic f o t . 47 80 n s of . , pi t Paris

s 1 4 d e 9 n . Ho gsh ea 6 barr ls 76 , pi t s

o e 4 o le e 1 6 uar t u 1 9 B cal f g i tt q cce , , 9 2 pi n t s .

e l 28 o = 2 : 1 8 l i 5 7 s . Barr h ca i , f cubic feet , 5 , 7 pi n t

CORN.

1 5 6 o o 2 631 s . , j sc rz , , bu hel s

5 2 62 el. , bush s

6 40 o n o n s 1 0 a I 8 ee r ma p u d , , f cubic f t ,

2 1 05 e . , bush ls

E W IGHTS .

h e o n 1 2 o n e 24 n e s 576 in s T p u d u c s , d e i r gra ,

692 n . O, 9 Paris p o u d e n 1 0 o n s 7 077 en o n s . D ci a p u d , fr ch p u d

MONIES .

Acc ordi n g to a g o v er n m e n t r egulati on o f 1 0 ja n uary 1 835 th e fo ll owi n g prop orti on has b een establi shed b et

n olan d e we e g d silv r . n f lis o 2 1 6 s e s 22 b a occhi A p o u d o g o d w rth pia tr , j a n d 9 d en ari .

73 b a oc hi 9 en A p ou n d of silve r 1 3 piastr e s j c , d ari ar d o n th de a n d gﬁo . The m on i es of t he c ou n try e ba se e cimalsyst e m . a m n o wei hts measur es mon ies . X X IX St te e t f g ,

a Quattri n i 5 1 b j o cco .

z : 1 B ajocchi 5 gr o ss o .

n S 1 1 0 palll. 1 1 00 d o llar .

Th e c op pe r m o n i e s a r e .

Quattri n o a fra n c . B aj oc c hi

o r 5 quattri n i . SILVER .

occhi O 2783 . b aj ,

n 5 5 . 0 7 66

1 930 s . , fra n c

1 6 9 a , 3 6 7330 4 60 5 , 6

GO L D C O I NS. l Gol d m on i e s ar e divid e d i n t o two c a sses , th ose de cr eed by G ov e r n m en t in 1 836 call e d th e n ew c oi n s a r e

n I z h d o divid e d i t o pi e ce s o f an d 2 f d ollar s . T e olc i n s

a lso n e b ut e we re o rigi ally d cimal, th ir valu e has b een s ucc essiv ely cha n g e d ; th e s e qui n is n ow W orth 2 d ollars

an d 2 t he o 3 32 . pauls , d ppia d ollars , C o mpar e d with fr e n ch m on e y the ir valu e is

I ? e 1 5 . 0 1 2 . f S qui n c o i n ed si n c e 7 8 fr 6 , ° e n d . 1 2 024. S qui ,

o a 74 2 . Tﬁ D ppi 8, 5

o 1 9 . D ppia 6 , 7 98 h o e t T e f reig n coi n s curr n t in h e s tat e ar e .

SILVE R .

e n . o l 0 95 b a oc chi . G rma y D l ars , j

1 4. Austria , 0

n 83 . Cr ow o f Mila n 0 ,

9 . New 0 , 5 ta temen t o wei hts r e monies. xxx S f g , measu s and

n n o Spai n . Colo at in same valu e as r o ma n co . Iﬁx C olo nn ato l 1 F n e . Ec u de 6 e ra c ivr s , 06 .

n e 92 . 5 fra c pi ce 0 , l 2 . Parma . 5 ivre s 0, 9

e n 5 92 . Pi m o t O,

N e . e e o f 1 20 n 93 . apl s Pi c gra a 0 , 1 n . F n on 2 T usca y ra cesc e , 0

G O L D .

e n . of ffe ent s e 2 1 6 . G rma y Ducat di r tat s ,

. H n 2 1 8 Austria u gary , ,

e e n 4 . Sov r ig 6 , 8

e n of Mln 2 1 8. S qui i a ,

e o 1 8 1 . Spai n . Pezze tta b f r e 7 6

an 96 . afte r 0, ° o loon e fo e d . 3 . D ub b r , 88

to afte r 3, 75 . ’ F n e . o is d or e o e 1 785 4 ra c L u b f r ,

a e 4 . ft r , 35

N oleon 3 7 1 . ap ,

. e e of l s 2 1 . Parma Pi c ivr e 0 3 , 7

o . s o n n . 8 36 . P rtugal Li b i a ,

e on . ole of en o . 0 . Pi m t Pist G a 7 , 3

o . 5 2 . Sav y , 5 e of le 1 e 2 . Pi c ivr s 0 3 , 7

N le s . O n e om 1 2 4 ap u c fr 81 8 , 0 .

T n . e n . 2 1 usca y S qui , 2 . X X X I INDIC ATION

O F THE EC CLESI ASTI C AL C ER EMO NIES

WHI CH T AKE PLA CE IN T HE PAPAL C HAPEL AND IN T HE PR I NC IPAL C HURC HE S.

JANUARY .

t 1 ss in th e n e elin es n e o f 1 . A 0 high ma Sixti chap pr e c r alan d t h th e o e the c a din s e on t iﬁcalo . p p , p c urt e l es e s in th s e e 3 PM. 5 . V p r am chap at

E n . 1 ss a e at 4 o sion 6 . pipha y At 0 high ma s ab o v ; pr c es o in the church f Ar acoeli.

1 . F s i lof . n o n o his n ea M a 7 e t va S A t i at church r S . ari

o . less n of o an d Maggi re B i g h rses o th e r a n imals . 1 ﬁ ’ 1 . of . e e 0 n t i ca s . 8 Chair S P t r ; at po lchapelat S . P et er

FEBRUARY .

on of th e M on n . 1 0 on tifica 2 . Purificati ad a At p lchap e l in ol le in the n a the Ap ost ic pa ac which ca dles r e bless ed n n an d distribut ed . Duri g le t pon tificalchap e lat th e Vatican e v ery su n day ; on ash W edn esday t h e a n f blessin g nd distributio o a shes . M ARCH.

7 F lof . T o in s th e in the . estiva S h mas Aqu a at M erva ; e n holy coll eg of cardi als is pr esen t at high mass.

9 s lo . F n h . Fe tiva f S ra c esca Roma n a at her church n e ar t e

arch of Titus . xxxn Indication ofthe ecclesiastica lcer emonies.

a a n als 2 n n n on of the . n . Th o e n d c r di 5 . A u ciati B Virgi e p p n th n e o e on ar e pr e s e t at high mass at e Mi rva , pr c ssi of yo u n g girls wh o hav e r e ce iv e d a dowry fro m th e

frat e r n ity of the A n n u n ciati o n .

HOLY WEEK.

P i i s ls a lm Sun day . The p o p e bl ess e s an d d str b ut e pa m on om i n the Sixti n e chap e l ; hi gh ma ss . The c e r e m y c m n I z 9 e c es at f past .

. o i e n the n e We d n esd ay Ab ut 5 M s r er e i Sixti chap el.

T H in t h e e a e t he o e de hur sday . igh mass sam ch p l p p p os e s th e holy Sacram e n t in t h e Pa o li n a chap e l ; fro m th e balco n y of t he Vatica n h e r e ads th e b ullin Oce a n

D omin i e n t o th e e o le th , gives his bl ssi g p p ; Wash e s e fe e t an d s e rv e s at tabl e tw e lve p oo r pri e st s of di ffe r e n t ’ ' o in h e . n ati on s . At 5 o clck M s e r e r e t Sixti n e chapel ’ n . Aft e r s un se t th e po n t iﬁc alaltar i S Pe t e r s is wash ed .

F a 9 e e on e le in t r iday . At If pas t th e c r m y tak s P ac h e h Sixti n e chap e l in pr e s en c e of t e po pe a n d cardi n als . In t he aft e r n oon t he o ffi ce a n d Mise r e r e as on the

n I n n d o o i pr e ce di g days . n ma y church e s a rat ri es s c e l e brat e d th e thr e e h o urs a g o n y in c o mm e m oration

of th e e o e n thr e h urs that Christ pass d o the cross .

Sa t d a . th o n e n ur y At e church of S . J h Lat ra bapti s m of Jews a n d Turks n ewly c o n v e rt e d h oly o rd er s gra n t e d to tho s e wh o ar e d e sti n ed t o th e e ccles ia stical

o e on . H o pr f ssi us es ble ss ed . ’ er . e Ea st The pO pe hims elf c e l eb rat es mas s at S . Pe t r s ’ at 1 0 o cl ock ; at 1 2 he give s his bl e ssi n g fro m the o n o f th e balc y facade . Mon ue an d n ollo in on tiﬁcal el day t sday su day f w g , p chap in h os l t e ap tolic pa ace .

Indication o h ec le xxxw ft e c siasticalcer emonies.

o h e e lof . e e an d . Eve f t s 6 on i 28 f tiva SS P t r Paul. At p t ’ al ﬁc v esp ers at S . P e te r s . The s ubt e rran eous church i n d to th e i o h s op e e p ety f t e faithful.

JULY .

1 elof din ls at t he n i os oli in on 4. Chap car a Sa t Ap t h our

on v n e . of S . B a e tur 1 l n d es i the Gesit in no of . n i s 3 . Gra f t va at h o ur S Ig at u

U U T A G S .

1 F s i l . e o i n n ol. t the r on the . e t va at S Pi tr Vi c i A chu ch

Esquili ne the chai n s of S . P e t e r are e xposed durin g

n e ight days t o public v e erati on .

ss ion of th . n . H n iﬁcal ss at 1 5 . A umpt e B Virgi igh po t ma

M. b t e le n h n . S . Maj or followed y h b ssi g from t e b alco y

SEPTEMBER .

. i n . H m ss in sen ce of 8 Nat vity of th e B . Virgi igh a pre

a a o . the p0 pe an d cardi n als t S . Mari delP p olo

EM NOV BER .

’ at e . 3 1 . Pon tiﬁcalmass th Vatican at 1 0 o clock At ves e d p rs for the ecea sed . 2 T s s e in the ol t o the m . hi day , acr d cath ic church e

th e se h an d n s r mory of e d e c a d , t e p op e cardi ala e pr esen t at high mass in th e Sixti ne chap elO n the 3d an d 5th fun cti on s ar e cel ebrat e d at t h e palac e for t he s d eceas e d p a p es an d cardi nals . Pas ag es from scripture or o e les s ls o n lo o s to th e s e fr m cc ia tica hi t ry a a g u ubj ct , in en ar e r epr esen t ed wax in diffe r t church es , parti h lof lr l . ia in s e e os cu a y at S Mar Tra t ev r , at t e h pita h st m Indication oft e ecclesia ica lcer e onies. xxxv

i o th e n lon th Sa nt o Spir t , Co so azi e , at e church o f la

in lan d o o e . n e M rt via Giu ia at S J h Lat ra n .

Fes lof . lo o o o th o an d n 4. tiva S Car B rr m e ; e p p e cardi als o t he o lo in h e t f . t e r pair church S Car Cor so , Wh e re ’ high ma ss is c ele brat ed at 10 o clock . ’ al el . e e s for th e o 29 . Pap chap at S P t r e r p ose of the s ul

of Pius VIII.

E E D C MBER .

The ﬁrst su nday of Adven t papalchap elat the Vatica n ’ h e a t 1 0 o clock . Aft er t e s rvic e th e p op e carri es th e holy Sacra men t in pr ocessi on an d e xp os e s i t in th e

n Pauli e chap el which is illumi n at ed with wax ca n dl e s . f n l th Each sun day o Adve t papa chap e l at e ap ost olic palace .

n e on o t . n . H n h l 8. Co c pti f he B Virgi igh mas s i t e papa 4 ’ chap el. At o clock pr oce ssion fr o m t he church o f

Ar acoeli which cro sse s a part of t he fo rum .

24. s e . h o Chri tmas ve Ve sp ers in t e papalchapel. Ab ut 8 in the e ven i n g mid n ight mass is c elebrated in pre en o f t he o e a n d n s ce p p cardi als .

in th o n n t 25 . At 3 e m r i g he n ight ma ss c o mm en ces at a S . Maria Maggiore n d th e holy cradle is e xp osed all h day on t e high altar . At 1 0 high mass by the so v e ' ’ n on tiﬁe . r e ig p ither at thi s church or at S P e t e r s . From this day tillth e 1 st ja n uary t he birth of o ur Savi o ur is r epresen ted in ﬁgures in di ffe re n t churches ; that i th o n e o f Ar acoelis e m st i t r esti n g .

2 l el 1 0 in on o of . e en . 6 . Papa chap at h ur S St ph

n els . 7 h in on o of . o n the e 2 . T e sam e h ur S J h va g i t

2 F lof . T o s o of C n e 9 . e stiva S h ma bish p a t rbury at his

church n ear th e palazz o Farn e se .

n e th n in the in e el. 3 1 . Gra d v esp rs at e Vatica Sixt chap At t he church of the G esh a sole m n Te D e um is s u n g in

presen ce of the holy colleg e an d magi strat e s of Rom e . XX XVI B SE R A I O V T O NS.

The ls e o n on e mai arriv m days , tu sdays , thursdays fridays an d sat urdays an d le tt e rs ar e d e live re d b e twee n

9 an d 1 0 .

le h Th e departur es tak e p ac t e sam e days ; the post o fﬁc e is op en for the r eceipt of le tte rs u n til 3 ; on saturdays ’ u n til5 o cl o ck . The Vatica n an d Capit olgall eri es a r e O p en t o the public o n m on days an d thursdays at t he 20 italian h our ’ n viz : 1 o clo ck in Wi n t er a d 4 in summ e r . Tick e ts ar e n e cessary for admi ssi on t o the e gyptia n an d tusca n galleri e s at t he Vatica n ; the s e ar e obtai n ed by applicati o n t o the r e sp e ctiv e mi n ist e rs an d c on suls .

h o l e e fo r th lo T e sam e f rma ity is r quisit e pa azz Spada ,

ol. For t es t h e villa Alba n i an d th e villa Adria n a at Tiv i h e e on l on e in n t o t h e r o p rmissi s , app icati is mad writi g p pr ie t or s . Th e privat e galleri e s are o p en daily t o the public ’ (fes tivals e xce pt ed) from 1 0 till2 o clock . entre e Q) ? lit©m3

F I R S T D A Y

F ROM P ONTE MOLLE T O THE CAP I TO L.

PONT E MO LLE .

Th e r oad t o Rom e by Vit erb o on t he « Ca ssia n » an d

n th « Fl n n » a n i in th e that by Otricoli o e ami ia w y , u te T o e o the n eighb ourhoo d of Mon t e R osi . w mil s fr m city h n ole f r th e trav ell er cr oss es th e T ib e r on t e P o t e M l, o m erly call e d Molvius o r Milvius an app ellati on said t o

m liu Sc a r s ho l s b e d e rive d fro m M. ZE i s u u w bui t thi t the bridg e , th ough Pli n y as serts tha it e xist ed b efor e battl e of the Metauru s gai n e d by th e R o ma n s o ver Asdr ub al n ea F h e o r oss o mbr on e . Th e arr est of t ambassad rs of the All obr ogi implicat ed in th e c on spiracy of C atili n e t he vict ory of C on sta n ti n e ov er Maxe n ti a s n e ar Saxa R ubra 9 e o R o ha n n le t mil s fr m m e , ve give a c ertai ce brity o this

id e a n d e n on s . of it is n e n t h e br g its vir A part a ci t , e oth r n e e part has b ee r st or ed at vari o us p ri ods . From th e bridg e th e r oad n early c o i n cid es with th e a n ci en t Via Flami n ia o n a smalle mi n en ce t o the l e ft is a t empl e rais e d in hon our o f th e ap ostle A n dr ew by P o p e

s II o n th S o e h th o f Piu , e p t wh r e e r e c e iv ed e h ead that ‘ o e o o th Pelo on n esus an d le o ap stl br ught fr m e p , a mi fr m th e Ille in on o of th s city, Julius r e ct e d a church , h ur e am e

os le in o e o on of his e n e o ap t , c mm m rati d liv era c fr m capti v it i n 1 2 h e t and of t he y 5 7 . T e archit e ctur of his church ,

Ca si no called Papa Giuli o in its vici n ity is by Vig n ola . 2 G uide ofRome

P O RT A D EL P O P O LO .

en Hon o e th e in 402 e Wh rius r built city walls , a gat as o e n e on t h e F n n n e N e i t h e w p d lami ia way ; u d r ars s , n

e n e o o f th e VI e n a e in s c o d p ri d c tury , it w s plac d th e

n o . e e pre s e t sp t This gat , which d riv e s its n am e fr o m

t h of . M de lo o o a e e church S aria P p l , w s r built by Vi

uolin 1 1 o n t o th e e n of M n g a 5 6 acc rdi g d sig icha e l A g e l o . The e xt ern alpart is d e c o rat e d with fo ur c olum n s o f the d oric o rd e r o f br e ccia a n d gra n it e ; the i n t e r n alo rn am en ts we re d e sign ed by B e rn i n i .

PIAZZA D EL P O POL O .

This piazza , fo rm ed by two larg e hemicycles is

e o n n an n ad orn d with f u tai s , statu e s , egyptia ob elisk , and churche s of n e arly th e sam e s tyle o f archit e ct ur e fr o m which bra n ch off t hr ee of the pri n cipalstree t s o f R om e

n e e t h o e en tha t i the middlcall d e Cors is a mil in lgth . Th e statu e s o f th e piazza r e pre s e n t R o m e b e twe en

t he n o an d t he T e Ne ne an d th e T on n A i ib r ; ptu rit s Spri g , Summ e r Autum n an d Wi n t e r . The s e micircl e t o t h e le ft of the gat e is s urm o un te d by the public pro m en ad e of th e

Pi n cia n hill. th e e i th Adj o i n i n g gat s e church call ed S . Maria del

n e o n t o o ul Po p ol o fo u d d acc rdi g p p ar traditi on , by Pa p e

in h 1 99 t o e e h e e Pascal 1 1 t e ye ar 0 , d liv r t e p o plfro m t he n o cturn al pha n t o ms attribut ed by the v ulgar t o Ne ro who

was buri e d on the Pi n cia n hill in t h e t o mb o f his family . This church was r e built u nd e r Sixtus IV ; Ag o sti n o

d t he o e of th an d e n n n o f C higi an o th e rs , at cl s e XV b gi i g

h e en v e e o he in e o t n t XVI c tury , i d with ach t r d c ra i g it With m on um e n ts which re nde r it on e o f t he m os t i n t e t r es ti n g o f the ci y .

4 G uide ofHome

a s in esen e of th e . n with th e postle S . Jame pr c B Virgi ; ’ n d t f . le d i n G e a he history o S Magda n e Pazz , pai t ed by

mign an i . ’ s . MARIA D E MIRAC O LI .

h n e ls o n t he i of the . n T e fo ur a g supp rti g mage B Virgi , t h h a r e R : the s e o f F ov e r e hig altar , by aggi tatu s aith an d e n who lo e e e th e on e Charity by Luc ti , a s x cut d br z h bu st of cardi n alGa staldi whic surm o u n ts his t omb . In en te ri n g the Cor so the ﬁrst church on the le ft is that of ’ GESU E MARIA .

Or n am en t ed with vari o u s ki n d s of ﬁn e marbl e and n with gilt stuccoes . I t co tai n s se v eralt omb s o f t he Bo lo n e t ti The e g family . sacristy is ad orn d with s o m e fresco n pai ti ng s by La nfra n c . Nearly opp osit e is th e church of

’ s . GIA COMO DEGL INCURABILL

Thi s was built i n 1 338 by cardi n alPi e tro C ol onn a an d r ebuilt in 1 600 acco rdi n g t o th e d esig n s o f Fra n ci s da

In e n e o h e has e Volt e rra . th se co d chap l n t right is a r li e f b o e Fr n s of n fo r th y Legr s r presen ti n g 5 . a ci Paul prayi g e

n f the . n an d t o n n se i t e rc e s si on o B Virgi , w pai ti g s wh o a r e s ubj e cts e c on n ct ed with the life o f thi s sai n t .

So CARLO o

on of th e os n i en of th This church e m t mag ﬁc t e city , is divid ed i n to thre e n av e s by pilast e r s of t he c ori n thia n

e n in 1 1 2 : th e ol th n e o rd e r . I t was b gu 6 cup a , e tribu

n a o h n i a d th e high altar r e by Pi e tr da C o rt on a . T e pai t n g

o t h e s n n . C n e t o th v e r e altar , r pr e e ti g S harl e s pr es e t d e M d nn our o is of th e es woxks of a o a by Savi ur , one b t Fir st day . 5 C arl o Maratta : the pai n ti n gs of t he cup ola an d tribu n e

a a r e by Gi cin lo Bra n di . In followi n g th e C o rs o t he ﬁrs t large palace on the

T HE PALAZZ O R U SPO LI .

The pri n cipal o r n am en t of which is th e gra n d stair cas e fo rm ed o f 1 1 5 st eps e ach of a si n gl e bl ock o f whit e

h 8 e e in e n 2 in e a n d marbl e . T e gall e ry 0 f t l gth 6 h ight 1 1 if z i n br eadth c on tai n s s o m e fr esco pai n ti n gs by h Giacom o Z uc c i a pupil o f Va sari . The gr o u n d fl oor is n ow used as a c offe e hous e .

S. L ORENZO IN LU C INA .

s III is ele e l in the Sixtu , it b i v d , bui t this church

4 5 e n e e the en d of the en year 3 . It c rtai ly xist d at VI c tury

o h o at the tim e o f S . Gr e g ry t e gre at : it Was r est r e d by

n 0 a in 1 1 Adria I in 7 8 n d r e built by C e l e sti n III 96 . ’ O v e r t h e high altar is Guid o R e n i s c el e brat e d pictur e r epresen ti n g the C ruciﬁxi on th e chap e l d edicat e d t o

e n ﬁa a n d , S . Fra n cis was pain t e d by Mark B e l a me n u m e n t t o Poussi n who Was buri e d in this church has lat ely

e en e e an d e e o n . b xecut d , e r ct ed h er by L em y e

S . SILVE ST ER IN C API T E .

Traditi o n r e fe rs th e o rigi n o f this church t o the

6 1 o n th e n e o e e e in year 2 . Am gst um r us r lics pr s erv d it

e is t he e o . o n th e t he m o st r e markabl h ad f S J h Baptist .

The e oes o f the s o n o f . o n . e e fr sc As umpti , S J h S Silv st r , an d o a r n In t h e on f o th er sai n ts e by Bra di . ﬁrst chap e l th he n n ar e n an d ar so e f e l eft t pai ti gs by Tr evisa i , e m o t he best w orks of that artist . 6 Guide ofHome

T HE PALAZZO C H IGI .

This palac e was co mm en ced by Giacomo d ella Porta as on n e M e n an d n w c ti u d by ad r o ﬁ ish ed by d ella Gr e ca . n l n It was desti ed by A exa d e r VII as a r esid en ce for the t o e n Chigi family which h b elo g ed . It c on tai n s three c elebrat ed a n tiqu e statues : th e ﬁrst r eprese n ti n g a Ven u s on which is an an ci en t gr eek in scription purpo rti n g that it is the Work of Men 0 ph an t e s e n e s e n I f x ecut ed o the m od lof the tatue s e at Troy . t is o an d a o n th paria n marble w s f u d on e C aelian hill . The s econ d r e pres en ts Mercury and is on e of th e herm es calle d attic by Pau san ia s the drap ery is b e autifulan d this

ma b e on e e in e e e e as elon n wonk y c sid r d , v ry r sp ct , b gi g

f n e o of s e . The t o the m os t l ourishi g p ri d culptur third , lso of n le e e sen ollo the l e a paria marb , r pr ts Ap with aur l s is of ﬁn e s n and e on an d serp en t . Thi s tatu e d e ig e x cuti an d is prob ably of the tim e of Adria n . The gallery con tai n s so m e pai n ti n g s by seve ralof the gre at mast er s am o n g st which We shallparticularly n otic e

n the followi g . a land an ns on n o n . s l . s S . A th y , S P ca , S Ceci y A ce i

by Ben v en uto Garo falo .

F n s and en e n o . S . ra ci Magdal by Gu rci

e an d . o n so os o . S . Barthel my S J h by Dos D s - lo R o A Battle pi ec e by Sa vat r sa . n e s n e n o An I nfa t J su with A g ls by Alba . A p ortrait of Laura by PaulVer on ese . A Magdalen by Spag n olett o .

The carryi n g the Ark by Palma gi o van e .

ur o an d . T o s An t . O Savi ur S h ma by . Caracci

Madonn a and child by Alba n o . Portrait of Pi etr o Ar et i n o by Titia n .

Satyr disputi n g with a philosophe r by Salvator Rosa .

Holy Family by Pou ssi n .

Fir st da y.

n f o en no . C o n v er si o o S . Paul by D m ichi

Two p ortraits by T i n t o r e tt o .

n o o . Marriag e of S . Catheri e by S d ma

T HE PIAZZA CO L ONNA .

es f th o o n on n s Pins an d Occupi a part o e f rum f A t i u , d e riv e s its n am e fro m the c olum n rais e d by the s en at e t o Marcus Aur e lius in c o mm em o rati on of his vict ori e s in

h n n e e e e e n G e rma n y o v er t e Marco ma i . Th bas r li efs r pr s t

lo . The e of e t o om th ese e xp its ﬁgur Jupit r Pluvius , wh th e paga n s attribut e d t he extra ordin ary rai n obtai n ed fro m th e true God by the pray e r s o f the t hun d eri n g f l egi on is worthy o particular atte n ti on . Th e c olum n is form ed of 2 8 bl o ck s of whit e marbl e its e of 1 1 I : e 1 2 I a n n diam et r is f f e t , h eight 8 j i cludi g statu e 24 lfz : a wi n di n g stair cas e of 1 90 steps l eads to the to e e in 1 9 n F n n o e of p wh r 58 Dom e ico o ta a , by rd r

Si tus le t he n of the o le . l. y V , p ac d br o ze statu e ap st S Pau

In n o h n o offi e an d fro t f t he colum n is t e ge e ralP st c , in o n n n i t r io h o e the adj i i g piazza of Mo t e C o , whic ccupi s t he sit e of t he a n ci en t th eatre of Statilius Taurus is e u other egyptia n ob elisk '

T EMPLE O F ANT O NINU S.

The pla n of thi s buildi n g cl early i n dicat es that it was on c e a t e mpl e an d its proximity to the fo rum of An t o n in a d th in th e n us , n e i n scripti on di sco v e r e d XVI c e tury ar e suffi ci en t argum en t s t o pr ov e that it was dedicat e d to A n t o n i n us Piu s by th e R oman sen at e an d p e opl e in the o e n f rum b ari n g his am e . I ts r e mai n scon sist in 1 1 c olum n s supp ortin g a mag n iﬁcen t e n t marbl e tablatur e . Thes e c olum n s form ed he lateralpart o f t he poxt ico which s urro un d e d t he t empl e 8 Guide ofRome they ar e ﬂut ed and o f t he c o ri n thia n ord e r : 4 fe e t

2 n in 39 z e i n e i ches diam et er , xf fe t h ight : the base is

an d th e lo n e n e o la In th attic capita r am t d with live e v e s . e e n o f o f h e c o urt ar e fragm ts part t e c lla . In t he XVII c en tury th ese rui n s ﬁr st s e rv ed as a fro n t t o th e cu sto m ho use .

H O . C UR C H F S IGNA T IU S.

C n Ludov isi n e e of e o l s ardi al , a ph w Gr g ry XV bui t thi

o n e en e as e n in 1 626 an d church at his w xp s : it w b gu ,

i ‘ D men i hi ad ﬁ n ishe d i n 1 685 . o c n o m e two diffe r e n t d e sign s fr o m which Padr e Grassi fo rm ed the on e tha t was fol

The on e in e t n e an d has l owed . fr t by Algard is trav r i , two orde rs o f c olum n s c ori n thia n an d c o mpo sit e .

e n o ee n es is o n en e The i n t e ri o r divid d i t thr av , r am t d by t he fresco pai n ti n gs o f Padr e Pozzi a Jesuit who de

e of . has e le sig n ed the ﬁ n e st chap ls this church A r i f by on o e L egros r e pr es en ts S . Luigi G zaga Wh se body r poses u n d e r the altar in an ur n c ov e r e d with lapislazzuli : n ear

r . the sid e e n tra n c e is th e t o mb of Greg o y XV

C O LLEGIO ROMANO .

Thi s exten sive buildi n g was rai sed in 1 582 by G r e g ory XI II on the d e sign s of Bart ol o m eo Amma n ati . It

n o o . The con tai n s a spaci ous c o urt , surr o u d e d with a p rtic

ee an d e e n e t he ffe en n lati n , gr k h br w la guag s , di r t bra

- o o h an d eolo ar e ch es of b elles l e ttr e s , phil s p y th gy , taught

f e s . In the h e re u n d e r th e dir e cti on of t he s oci ety o J su d th buildi n g a n n exe d ar e an o bservat ory a library an e mus e um fo u n d ed by padr e Kirch er con tai n i n g n um e rou s le e o bj e cts o f a n tiquity an d o f n atural hist o ry with a c o mp t b ueat c oll e cti on o f t he R o ma n As an d its subdivisi on s eq

h ed by cardi n al Z elada to this muse um .

1 0 Guide ofR ome

o f th e C o an d k n own picture e gambl rs by aravaggi , that

e n n o f n an d o e t eo n o c el e brat d pai ti g va ity m d s y , by L ard Th e o e n e o in o o da Vi n ci . th r disti guish d w rks this r m a r e O rph e us in t h e palac e o f Plut o an d a fair by Bre u

n o th e o n gh el : two Magdal e s by Guid , family f Titia

n e . e o e e n o an d th e pai t e d by hims lf , a S J r m by Gu rci , p ortrai t k n ow n by the n am e o f « B ella di Tizia n o » pai n t e d by that artist . e e o e e e n e s an d in 1 6 1 4 S v ral disc v ri s mad u d r Piu IV , , h a ve pr o v e d that in the vici n ity o f this palac e n e ar th e ’ o n d r b o n t h m d e r Arco e C a g an i , was e triumphal arch rais ed by the R o ma n s en at e a n d p e o pl e t o the e mp e r o r

C laudius aft e r the c on qu est of Britai n .

S. MARC ELLO .

Built in th e IV c e n tury on t he sit e of a ho u se occupi e d I by S . Luci n a a R o ma n matro n in which S . Marce llus di ed ; it was r ebuilt in 1 5 1 9 o n t he d e sig n s of Giaco m o h Sa n s o vin o . T e m o st r e markabl e pai n ti n g s o f thi s church a r e t ho s e o f t he chapelo f the C ruciﬁx whe re Pier in del

e n e th e e n f Vaga has r pr es e t d cr atio o Eve .

M I . S . AR IA N VIA LA T A

s o d n t o n e n on Thi church , acc r i g a ci t traditi , was built o n t h e sp o t o ccupie d by t he h o us e of t he c en turi on

e n t . with Whom S . Paul resid d wh en s e t o R o m e by Festus It is add e d that t he fou n tai n which still e xists Spra n g up t hat t he ap ostl e might b e e n able d t o baptiz e tho s e Wh o m

n h e co n v ert e d t o Christia n ity . A o rat or y was built h e r e th so lo f R o e n e n t o its e e n soon aft e r , but e i m havi g ris pr s t

le e o o n o n e o n o e e v l , this rat ry is w u d r gr u d , it is h w v r

n n t h e e asy of acce ss by m ea n s of a con v en i e t stair cas e . O

e an d l F n e l. altar ar e the portails of SS . P t e r Pau by a c l i 1 t Fir st day .

I n n The church was built in t he VII c e tury r e ew e d

1 2 h e o n o f th e n e ar e in 1 485 an d agai n in 66 . T c lum s av o f cipolli n e marble c oat e d with sicilia n jaspe r .

PALAZZO D ORIA .

Th e D oria family a r e justly ra n k ed am on g t he m os t

o n o f a n ci e n t an d th e m ost illustri us bility o Italy . This palac e co n tai n s a spl e n did c oll ecti on of pai n ti n gs th e pri n e ip e l o f which ar e : In t he ﬁrst r oo m called th e saloon o f Po ussi n n u

o us ln es t e e e t o sea mer a dscap by tha c l brat d artist , w

M n air T o n o e vi ew s by o p , a urki sh w ma n o h rs back by

a d o e n n s o o in C astigli on e , n s m pai ti g by R sa di Tiv li , his b es t style . n In th e s eco n d r o o m is a 8 . Cath e ri n e by Scipi o e n o ln e s e n . o o n tw Ga ta o S D r thy by La fra c , a dscap by

and . E le e : Both a Ca stigli on e , S ustachius by A b rt Dur r three Ba ssa n i r e pr esen ti n g Cln ist drivi n g th e m on ey

out o f th e t e h e f o f o an h e chan g ers e mpl , t light Jac b , d t

n f C e e o e n n t he e t emptati o o hrist , thr th r pai ti g s by sam

e e e n n the e o f No a e th e e e artist r pr s ti g sacriﬁc ah ft r d lug , the appariti on o f Jesus t o th e discipl e s o f Emau s a n d an

« E e o o » o o n e . n s n o cc h m a Gi rgi , a S S ebastia by Ag o ti C an d n aracci , a Te mp esta a la dscape by Poussi n . The third r o om con tai n s a holy Family by Gar ofal o the En o n o f e no the es o f n dymi Gu rci , mistr s Titia by that

e os on o th e oss e on e e artist , a d p iti fr m cr by Paul V r s , a o of M e on n o n an d p rtrait acchiav lli by Br zi , a Va dyk a

e n o t h e e o f e o R o t o o r Gu rci d ath Ab l by Salvat r sa , w p traits by T itia n , o n e r epre se n ti n g Jan se n ius . Th e o ther m ost r e ma rkabl e picture s o f this r oom a r e a

Pie rin del ln e e n n t h r Vaga , a a dscap r pr es e ti g e appa iti on o f

E s o olF e o e n o n mau by B th, a h y amily by Pi tr P rugi , a Dia a a n d En on b R ub e n s o a d n T n n . dymi y , p rtraits by itia Va dyk 1 2 Guide ofRome

Som e v e ry ﬁn e p o rtraits d e c orat e the fourth r oo m

t h o o f e le R n s o e Aft e r e p rtrait a f ma by ub e , c m s a larg e pictur e r e pre sen ti n g th e c el e brat ed admiral A n dr ea Doria by Dos so D o s si an d a spl endid p ortrait of the sam e pe r son a e e n del o t o ole n r e g by S bastia Pi mb o w H b i s , on e e e n n e an d th e o pr s ti g hims lf the r his wife . In th e ﬁfth r o om ar e an Icaru s an d Dedalu s by Al

no o F i of o i o C R o n ba , a h ly am ly Lud v c aracci a ma cha

n n t . e o es on rity by Val e ti , a Garofalo , an d wo S J r m e by

Palma an d t he oth e r by Spagn oletto . Th e gall e ry which may b e consider ed as the m ost magn iﬁc e n t o f Ro m e con tai ns som e of the most splen did n o f pai n ti gs this colle cti on . The ﬁrs t littl e pictur e on th e l e ft r epr esen ti n g the disput e of C hrist with th e d oct o rs of th e lawis a Work

f o s f F h e e o n on o D s i o e rrara , t battl pi e ce s ar e by B org g e ,

t e n t h . e n h visitatio of e B Virgi n by Gar ofal o . W may ext o t e n e m n i hin o the bserv e hr ee b autifulla dscap s by Do e c , t o f F n n s t o b e his on es o p o rtrai a ra cisca friar , aid c f s r ,

R e n en n an d six i l by ub s , a Magdal by Titia sem circu ar ln s b n n e C e esen n the a d cap e s y A ibal aracci , r pr ti g ﬂight o E th on s on C s e i n t gypt , e v isitati , as umpti , hri t carri d t o th e s epulchr e th e birth of Jesu s an d the adora t i on of the Magi . O n this s id e of t he gallery ar e also : a Lot with his

e s o t o . F n daught r by Ghe rard d e ll e No tti , w S ra cis by

n n lC th e e o f T n e o b e A iba aracci , d ath a cr d , a p rtrait y Gu r

an d o t n n e th e n m l ci n o th s e wo spl e did la dscap s , wi d il a n d the t empl e o f Ap o ll o by C laud e L o rrai ne . The O pposit e wi n g of th e gall ery b egin s with a

e ln e of C e e esen n t he e ose in b autifu la dscap laud , r pr ti g r p E o b M lo o F o o gypt a p rtrait y uri l, a h ly amily by Gar fal t he prodigal son by Gu e rci n o t wo o th er la n dscap es by ﬁn e c o m C laud e a Magdal en of A n n ibal Caracci an d a n M don n po siti on of Gu erci no r epr es en ti n g S . Ag es , a a a Fir st da y . 1 3

o o of n no en t el e of Guid , a p rtrait I c X by V asqu z , a

n e n o t he e o f . C S . Joh Baptist by Gu rci , marriag S athe

n e o o o R o e e en n e s ri by Gar fal a Salvat r sa r pr s ti g B lisariu ,

e b n in the . an d our Savi o ur , s rv ed y a g els d es e rt , by Both The o of e n an d C e n e ar e o es p rtraits Luth r , Calvi ath ri c pi fr om the origi n alof Gi o rgi on e existi n g in the Pilti palace at Fl o r en c e ; the ﬁn e picture r e pr e s en ti n g a s oci e ty of

of the o f n e . misers , is a classic w ork farri e r A tw rp In the 4th wi n g we obse rv e a holy family of fra olo eo n n n n e C the o Bart m , a Susa a by A ibal aracci , f ur e e n e l e m en ts by Br ugh l , a la dscap e by Dom en ichi no , a

son a n d . l e no C on Sam a S Pau by Gu rci , a ruciﬁxi by eln elo an d t he e o f T n Micha A g sacriﬁc Abraham by itia . The pri n cipalr e mai n i n g pictures ar e a k erm esse or coun try festivalby T e n i ers t wo la n d scap e s by Both a p ortrait of Q ueen Gi o va n n a th e youn g er by Leon ard o da n N ol o n o f t h e Vi ci , a co py , by ich as P ussi , e c elbrat ed a n tiqu e fre sco of the Vatica n k n own by th e n am e of the « Nozze Aldob r an din e a p ortrait of a duk e of Fe rrara

T n o e o n o e o an d . n e by i t r tt , a th r p rtrait a S Cath eri by

T n e o o n o the o il o n o itia , a d p siti fr m cr ss by Pad va , t wo

s ll e o e e No and . S a ma Gh rard d ll tti, a S Jerom e by p gn ole tt o .

VENE T IAN PALA C E .

T is le was lin 1 468 l en e n h pa ac bui t by Pau II , a V tia ,

o n t o the e n of Julian d a an o it acc rdi g d sig g e Mj , w h mat e rials e n o the C olo e an d o tak fr m ss um f rum of Ne rva . It was duri n g a lo n g p e ri o d the r esid en c e of the s o v er e ig n on ff P ti s , but was giv en by Cle m en t VI II t o the r e public of e n e for the use of her s o to th V ic ambas ad rs e holy see .

nowb elon s t o the A s r i n o e n n It g u t a G v r m e t . Guide ofRome

C H R O . U CH F S MARCO .

The p o n ti ff S . Mark built this church in 337 an d

ed e t o . M the E n e d icat d it S ark va g list . It was r e built by

e n Gr go ry IV i 833 . Paul II pr e s erv ed th e a n ci en t tribu n e

o o n en a n d e n e t h with its m saic r am ts , r ew d e r est of th e

‘ i n 1 469 . In t church he chap e l of S . Mark a re pai n ti ng s

ie o e n nd by P tr P rugi o a by Bo rg og n one .

T HE Z O NI PALA ZO T ORL A.

C ont ns se er l n n s C amucc in i n an d ai v a pai ti g by , La di , t he c el ebrat e d gro up o f C a n o va r epr e s en ti n g He rcules o n L thr wi g y c as i n to the s ea . Un d er the pre s e n t duke Al ex an d e r th e c olle cti on of W orks o f sculptur e an d pai n ti n g has b e en so c on sid e rably e n crea sed a n d th e e mb e lli shm en ts hav e b e en e x e cut ed in s uch a styl e of spl en d o ur th at this palac e may n ow b e

on e e as o n n n c sid r d e of the m o s t mag iﬁce t o f R om e .

‘ C HIE SA UEL GESU .

T s S le n e e e on n t o th e es s as hi p did t mpl , b l gi g J uit , w c omm en c e d in 1 575 by C ardi n al Al exa n d e r Farn ese o n he t d e sig n s of Vig n ol e an d c o n ti n u ed by Giacomo d ella Porta wh o rais ed the cup o la and fron t with its c ori n thia n an d o o h n r o e o a e c mp sit e pil as ters . T e i t e i r is d c r t d with

le l o s e an d n n . The e marb , gi t stucc e , sculptur s pai ti gs fr s

oe o f th e n o f t h o an d e n b e c s tribu e , e cup la , c ili g may c r eck on e d am on gst t he b est W o rks o f B a icc io . In the chap el o f th e r ight arm o f t he c r oss C arlo Ma

f F n e . The ratta has r e pr ese n t ed the d e ath o S . ra cis Xavi r high altar has four ﬁn e col um n s o f giallo a n tic o an d a picture of Muzia n o r epr e s en ti n g th e circu mcisi on of Chri s t . 1 Fir st day . 5

h elo f . n e n e e o T e chap S Ig atius , d sig d by padr P zzi is one of the rich est an d most ma g n iﬁce n t of R ome . Its four co lum n s with the ir bas e an d capitals ar e cov er e d with

a e of the o n th e e n l e lapis lzzuli . Th p ed estals c lum s , tab atur I t o an d p edim en t ar e o f v e rd e an tico . n h e c en tr e f the p edim en t is a marbl e group r e pres en tin g the holy Tr i

i of o ur o . n ty by Ludov is i , the ﬁgur e Savi ur is by O tton e The gl ob e h eld by th e Et e rn al Fath e r is a si n gl e pi ece

d o n e the . n of lapis lazzuli. Pa re P zzi pai t d S Ig atius placed ove r the altar ; b ehi n d this pictur e is t he statu e of the sai n t in silv e r : His bo dy is u n d e r the altar in an ur n o f on e o n ar e e e en ffe n gilt br z , which r pr s t ed di r e t actions

h e e o th ar t of this sai n t . At t sid f e altar e wo gro up s r e pr e en n th e C n h e e o s n on s s ti g hristia fait mbrac d by barbar u ati , by Ten do n R eligi on a rmed with the cr oss an d e n o n e e e o . The n in of th e b ati g d w h r sy , by L gr s pai t gs c e ili ng of thi s chap elar e by B acicc io .

T OMB OF C AIU S POB LIC IUS BIBULU S

The of t h e Po b lic n Was le a family p b e ia n , and W s d ivid ed i n to t wo bra n ches on e b eari n g th e surn am e of M eols the o e o f b t o all u , th r Bi ulus ; a m emb er of the

e n latt r bra ch thi s t omb Was e r ect e d . Th e in scripti on s till e s n n o us se n con ultum xi ti g i f rms , that by a atus s , an d a d e cree of t he p eopl e a place was a ssig n ed t o C ain s Po b licius the son o f e e of the e o le Bibulus , Lucius dil p p , i n o rd e r t o ere ct a s epulchral mon um en t to himself an d his os e in on s e on of on o an d lo . p t rity , c id rati his h ur va ur

C . POB LIC IO L. F . B IBV LO AED . P L. HONORIS

VI RT VT ISQ VE C AVSSA SENATVS

C O NSVLTO POP VLIQV E I VSSV LO C VS

POST EB MONVMENTO o QVO I PSE EIQVE

RIVS o INFERRENTVR PVBLICE 0 D ATVS 0 B ST . 1 6 G uide ofRome

The p eri o d of the pleb e ia n e dility of Bibulus is n o t pr e

isel n o n is on e e o t he e of t he c y k w but it c j ctur d , fr m styl m on um e n t an d the o rthography o f t he i nsc r ipti on that he liv e d in the tim e of C aesar . This to mb was o utsid e th e Walls of S ervius Tulliu s but was en close d w ithi n the

ls e ln in 274 an d b Hon o s in 402 . Wal e re ct d by Aur e ia , y riu The W est er n fro n t which stillr e mai n s was ad orn ed With four d o ric pilast er s with the statu e of Bibulus i n th e

h n a e o n c en tr e . Toward s t e s o uth fro t re r mai n s of the r a

In e e men ted architra ve an d fri e s e . c o nse qu en ce of t he l v ati on o f the soilthe sepulchral chamb e r is n ow ﬁfte en fee t u n d e r gr oun d an d se rv es as a c ellar t o t he hou se b uilt on n t he ruins of this m o um en t .

1 8 Guide ofRome dir e cti on followed th e li n e of the cor don a ta which now lead s to th e arch of S e v erus . The clivus C apitolinus fo rm ed t o n on e le n o t h w bra ch e s , adi g fr m e forum t o the arch of T ibe rius situat e d on the sp o t wh e re th e h ospitaln am ed h n n e n s n th t e C o solazi o ow ta d s , e pav emen t of the o th er r e mai n s n ear the c olumn of Pho ca s ; the two bran ches un ite b ehi n d th e t emple of Fo rtun e u nde r a m od er n house; th e y follow ed the dire ction of the in ter mon tium pa ssi n g u n d e r the e n tra n c e of the tabularium and t he t ower b earin g the arm s of B on iface IX . The third a sc en t led to th e citad eln ear the Tarp e ia n rock . The citad elor arx was en closed with walls an d t ow ers e e h se ls e v n on th e sid e of t e in ter mon tium. The Wal w r e o f large blo ck s of v olca n ic st on e or gr ey tuffo a sp ecim en of which is s tillvi sible in a gall ery u n d er t he Caffarelli palac e . Withi n the arx w er e t h e h o u ses or rath e r c ottag es of Ro mulus O f Tatius O f Ma n liu s the t emple o f Jupit e r Fe re t r ius b uilt ‘ b y Romulus to r e ce iv e th e sp oils of the f e i v ictory which h e gai n e d o v e r Acron chi e f o th ( er um n ians a d n d or ount , n ma n y o the r t e mpl e s a altars which acc

» it was al so n am e d « Ara sacr orum . O n th e n o rth sid e O f th e in t er mon tium Was the h a sylum e stablish e d b y R o mulus in o rd e r t o e n cr e as e t e th l populati on o f his city ; on th e s o uth w er e e tabu arium , h e i de t he athen aeum an d capit oli n e library . T tabular um

‘ e d in i t ou riv e d its n am e fro m t he bron z e tabl e d e p osit , on s th e de ees which w ere in scribed the sen atu s c ulti , cr

o e t h e es of e e o f n e an d o e f the p o pl e , e tr ati p ac allia c th r as l C at ulus t he s e so public d ocum en ts . It w bui t by , ucc s r 4 e s e o e th e s n e r a of Sylla in the dictature, 8 y ar b f r chri tia ; of e l was burn t in the con tes t b e tween the soldi e rs Vit l iu s le ho col a n d Vespa sia n an d was rebuilt by the att r w

’ le t ed i n 3000 on e le the aots i had b een c , br z tab s wh ch

s catte r ed o v e r the whole empir e .

1 9 Second day . Som e remai n s of th e portic o of this ediﬁc e ar e still existi n g t owards the forum ; th ey ar e of th e d oric orde r in

n p ep e ri n o with the capitals i trav e rti n e . h h n the o o O n t e summit of t e hillov e rlooki g C rs , e e the of eln ow s n s Was the e e Wh r church Arac i ta d , c l b r ated t e mple o f Jupit e r C apitolin us built b y Tarqui n the Pr o ud in fulﬁlm en t o f the vow mad e by Tar quin ius

Pr i s H n n o e scu , aft e r t he last Sabi n e war . avi g b e e d estr y d

e e e ﬁr e as e l es n an d thr tim s by it w r built by Sy la , V pasia

o n . U n e ll e n s on s e e o n t o D mitia d r Sy a its dim i w r , acc rdi g

D ion isius O fHala c 7 ic r n assus in R o ma n fe e t cir umfer e n ce 70, len 200 e 1 85 . Th n lr o of gth , br adth e fr on t havi g a trip e w

o n s a e th s . c lum , (which w s d oub lo n the sid es) fac e d e outh The c ella was divided i n to thr ee n av es with e diculae or

els o f ose o n th e on e t o June chap ; th sid es e Was d edicat d , the o e to M t o th r i ne rva , an d the third in th e c en tr e Ju pit e r . It was in fro n t o f this t e mpl e that t he g en erals t o who m triumphal h on ours hed b een d ecr ee d sacriﬁc ed for the o e h e n an d in t h o t vict ri s whic th y had o btai e d , e c ur n am ed th e are a capit oli n a en clos e d with p orticoes the y oo O f n e part k a ba qu t aft e r t he sacriﬁce . This t e mpl e was e n tir e u n d e r Ho n oriu s; Stilicon stript it of part of its o rn am en t s ; G e n seric in 445 carri e d away the l gi t br on zes which fo rm ed its co v eri n g ; in the VIII

en n th o c tury it was falli g i n t o ruin s , an d in e XI had alt e e s g th r di app eared .

O M D ERN C API TOL .

T s e e on n s n e o e hi diﬁc c tai um rou s bj ct s of art , which

en e s o o h o n r d r it a p t fth e high est i n t e r es t . T e m d e r e mb el lishm en ts ar e Work s O f Paul III who rai se d the two lat e ral b l n s on t he e ns o M lAn e o e n e e t he ui di g d sig f icha e g l , r w d o n Of t he sen o lle n d t he s e t o th e fr t at ria pa ac , Op e e tr e t n o es an d rth W t , built the step s of the a scen t . 20 Guide ofHome

t he oo of the ls es ar e t o e n lons At f t ba u trad w gyptia i , O f b k n e n lac gra it fou d n ear th e church Of S . St efa n o ; o n t he t o ar e t o olos e o an l in p, w c salstatu s f C a sto r d Po lux , ’ en e le o n n e the e s n a o e t p t lic marb , f u d ar J ws y g gu ; wo m le o es lle the o es of M s o h arb tr phi , ca d tr phi ariu , th ug the style of sculptur e r e s e mbl es that O f th e early tim e s of Septimius Se v eru s ; two s tatu es o f C onsta n ti n e Augu s tu s and of Co n sta n ti n e Caesar fo u n d in the the rm ae of C on s tan t in e on th u n lt o ol n t h e o n e on th e Q iri a ; w c um s , e right of the asce n t is an a n ci e n t mile - s t on e i n dicati n g the first mile of the Appia n way Whe re it was foun d in 1 584; the co lum n o n th e le ft is m od ern ; t he ballh ow e v e r is ’ n n the e of T n c0 a ci e n t , an d as it was fou d at bas raja s lumu it is supp osed tha t it on ce c on tai n ed th e ash es of e that mp e r or . In t h e c en tr e of th e squar e is the e qu estria n statu e of ’ an le M s e f n n e . o n e n d arcu Aur lius , ou d ar S J h Lat ra s p ac d on thi s sp o t by Paul I II u n d e r th e directi on o f Micha el

the o n on e e n r e An g elo . This is ly br z e qu stria statu e

main i n g of allthos e which ad or n ed a n cien t R o me .

SENA T ORIAL PALA C E .

O n th e rui n s of th e tabularium B on iface IX built a palac e in 1 380 for the r esid en ce of the sen at ors . PaulIII o r n amen t ed it with cori n thia n pilast ers u n d e r the dir ectio n

n n e of Micha elA n g e l o . At the fou tai placed h e r by Sixtus V e on n s Mn e t h ar e thr ee a n tiqu e s tatu s , e r e pres e t i rva e i of o o n n e an d drap er y of which s p rphyry, f u d ar C o ra ; th e two O th ers the Nile an d the Tib e r in paria n marbl e fo u n d in t he t e mple o f S erapi s on the Quiri n al. The large b alll eads t o the towe r of the Capitolraised i on off in t he u n d er Greg ory XIII by Lon ghi a s tuati er g mo s t extensiv e views of Rome an d its en virons . Second day .

MU SEUM.

In the c ourt is a c olo ssal statu e of th e O cean form erly

d n e th o t o s an d stati on e ar e arch f S e v e rus , with w satyr , two sarc ophagi o f i n fe ri o r styl e but i n t ere sti n g as con n e c t ed with a n ci en t cust o ms ; on o n e is r e presen t e d a d oubl e cha se with arms an d n ets ; o n th e walls ar e i nseri plion s in m em ory of s ev e ral pr e t o ria n soldi ers .

P ORT I C O .

To th e left o f the e n tra n ce ar e a colossalstatu e of

e o f e t h l n an d Mi n erva , a h ad Cyb el fr o m e vi la Adria a , a fragm en t of a s tatu e of a captiv e ki n g in vi ol e t marble . O n th e right Of the en tra n c e ar e a statu e o f Dian a of e e o o s e of n e b autiful drap ry ; a c l ssal tatu Dia a , a Jupit r , an Adria n Offe ri n g sacriﬁc e an d a re m n a n t of a statu e of C e res in p orphyry r e markabl e for the elega n ce of the drap ery .

H ALL O F INS C R IP T I ONS .

Arou n d th e wall s ar e 1 22 imp e rialan d consular in r i t ion s O ffe n o n o o lse ro sc p , ri g a chr l gica ri es f m Tibe riu s

In th n i s t o Th eodosiu s . e ce tr e s a quar e altar o f a n ci en t e s le o n h ar e e n he gr ek ty , w ich e r pr se ted t lab our s o f

He rcules .

HALL OF T HE URN.

Thu s n am ed fro m a larg e sarco phagus in whit e marbl e co v e r e d with has- r eli e fs relati n g the m o st r e mar kabl e i n cid e n ts in the life o f Achill es ; in th e fr on t is r e pres en t e d his quarrel with Agam e m n on o n acco un t o f

e on th e e e a e o Bris is sid s his d p rtur fr m Scyros , an d v e n

ean ce for the e of t o l e n is su g d ath Pa r c us , b hi d Priam p Guide ofRome plic ati n g fo r the body o f He cto r . The r emai n in g o bj ects O f i n t e r e st in this r oo m ar e a m os aic foun d at An tium ; a Palmy r e an m on u men t e r e cte d t o Aglio b olus an d Malac b elus as is asc e rtai n e d by th e i n scripti o n i n Greek and

Palm r ea n e e of of an d ll y a bas r li f a pri est Cyb el e, a s ma f an d s tatue o Pluto C e rb e rus . O n the Walls o f th e sta ir case ar e fragm en ts of the an ci en t pla n of R om e foun d in th e rui n s of t he t empl e n W n of R e mus o th e sacre d way . e may o tic e particularly th e e o f t he o f t h e o o e o f d sit baths Sura , p rtic s Octavia , an

H e ln in t he Fo : the E a rcul es , bui di gs rum viz milia n d

b asilick s t he r ce co stas is o f th e i e a Julia g , a part mp rial p e th e he e of e a d of lac , amphit atre , th atr e Pomp y , n part th e ae o e th rm f Tit us .

HALL OF T HE VA SE .

The larg e marbl e vas e fo rm e rly i n th e c en tre was fo u n d n e ar t h e t o mb o f C e cilia Me t e lla an d is plac ed o n a n a n tiqu e altar ha vi n g ﬁgur es of th e tw elve divi n iti es with t h e i r S e V O I’ a I a t t r i b u t e s ; a n o the r v a s e in bro n z e fo u n d in the sea n ear An tium was a prese n t fro m ki n g Mithri

n h a to r dates Eupa to r t o the gym asium of t e e up ists . O n the t wo sarcophagi ar e s culptur e d in has r eli e f th e formati on and d es tructi on o f m an acc o rdi n g to th e Neo - Plato n i c n an d n W syste m an d the fable o f Dia a E dymi on . e may n otice al so t he has r eli ef of th e Iliac tabl e which r elat es se v e rale ven t s o f the Iliad a trip o d a n d two s tatu es of he os e esen n o e is th e Ephesia n Dia n a . T m aic r pr ti g d v s an f os s e n imitati on o f the celebrat e d wo rk o S u , m n ti o e d by Pli n y an d the n e xisti n g at Pe rga mu s in Asia Mi n or it was

ol. foun d in the Villa Adria n a at. Tiv i

2 4 Guide ofRome

P s n n iu N e timi s e e ce s ig er , S p us S e v eru , D ciu s and Julia n n sur am ed th e Ap ostat e .

O H ALL F T HE P H ILO SOPH ERS.

A c oll e cti on o f p ortraits of lit e rary an d philosophic p erson ag e s of a n tiquity c oll ect ed h er e has giv en it this de

o o n n e e n mi n ati on . The m st i ter e sti g bas r eli fs ar thos e of

He e e t o th n e o n e ct o r c o n v y d e fu e ral pil , acc mpa i d by He

an d n o e in e s e t o H e in cuba A dr mach t ar s ; a acriﬁc yg ia , d en f n ln n th r oss o a n tic o , an fragm t o a Baccha a ia b e ari g e n am e of th e sculpt o r C allimachus .

s e ee n en e ar e Am o n g the s e bu ts , Which hav b id tiﬁ d , e o en e o f E es th e followi n g : Di og en es , D m sth es , thr e uripid , t o f o les T u e ln fo ur of Hom e r , wo S ph oc h cy did s Ju ia

Archim edes and Sappho .

SAL OON.

Th e two c olum n s o f giallo a n tico 1 2 fe e t in h eight w e re fou n d n ear the t o mb of C e cilia Me te lla ; the two Vic t o o n th e of C e en “ the ri es su pp rti g arms l m t X , at arch

in he o o . an d an E of Marcu s Aur eliu s , t C rs A Jupite r scu

a i s in n o n o An tium the t wo C e n in the lp u e r a tic at ; taurs , n n n n He es on the en n e s Villa Adria a ; a i fa t rcul , Av ti ; thi statu e is plac ed o n a re cta n gular altar the bas r e li e fs of which a llud e t o the Th eo g on y of He si o d ; Rh e a i n the

th e e o e offe r in on e t o u n pai n s of lab or , sam g dd ss g a st Sat r t he i n st e ad of h e r son Jupite r , Jupit e r n o urish e d by g oat

le an d th e C o n e o n n e th e Ama th a , ryba t s dr w i g his cri s by cla sh of arm s : Jupit e r rai sed to the thron e in the mid st of

the divi n iti e s .

The o e le e a r e two on s M m st r markab statu s Amaz , ars a n d n Mn e n o lo o o V e u s , a i rva , a Pythia Ap l a c l ssal bust n lb on e s e of o f Traja n with the civic cr ow , a gi t r z tatu Second day . 2 5

ld n i n on e n in t he o e t he Hercul es ho i g ha d a club , th r a pples of the gard en of the He sp e rid e s ; an a n imat ed old W oma n s upp os ed to b e Hecuba a c olossal bust o f A n t o n n s s an d a n H o es o n the l n . i u Piu , arp crat , f u d at Vil a Adria a

F HALL O T HE FAUN.

In the middl e of this r oo m is th e b eautiful Faun in the n an d e t o the r osso a n tico fo u n d at Villa Adria a , ﬁx d Wallis the bron ze i n scripti on c o n tai n i n g a part of the o rigi n alsen atu s c on sult um gra n ti n g the imp erialdig n ity to Ves pasia n . We n e xt ob se rv e on a sarc ophagus th e fable of Dia n a an d En dymi o n ; a n altar d edicat ed t o Isis ; a child playi n g of en s th e o e e o l with a mask Sil u , m st p rf ct statu e f a chi d han d e d d o w n t o us fro m a n tiquity ; a C upid breaki n g his how; a child playi n g With a swa n ; this is a c o py o f a W ork in bron z e e x e cut ed by the carthagi n ia n Boe thius an d prais ed by Pli n y ; a larg e sarc o phagu s in ﬁn e pre s er vati o n r e pr e s en ti n g t he battl e o f Thes e u s an d the Albe n ian s agai n st the Amazon s ; t h e has re li e fs which r e pr esen t he n e on s ar e llof e t va quish d Amaz fu expr ssi on .

O ‘ HALL F T HE GLA D IA T OR.

The e e e s e of m an o ll o n e c l brat d tatu a m rta y w u d d , llthe n t h e ca ed dyi g gladiato r , is chi ef o r n am en t of thi s r oom ; his costume how e v e r w o uld i n dicat e that he is a lan d th e s e Gau , tatu pr obably form ed part of a group

e e en n the l n o n n o r pr s ti g Ga lic i cursi i t Gr eece .

The o e ﬁn e s e ar e Z en o e e li ilSO h r th r tatu s , a Gr k p O p e , t he F n of e e o n the l au Praxit l s f u d at Vi la Adria n a , Ao t in ous l e n e a n d e admirab y d sig d e x cut e d , a Flora with e l b autifu drap ery . The bus t of Brutus ; the Juno of a

nd s le e d of le n e the e an n gra ty a h a A xa d r gr at , Ariad e 3 2 6 G a ide ofRome cr ow n ed With ivy : the statu e of a fe male wh ose features e ess e e n o e s xpr gri f , b ari g a c v r e d va e with offeri n gs s ose o e t o b e o r upp d by s m Isis , a Pa n d ora , but m o re pr o bably El e ctr a carryi n g fun e raloffe rin gs t o th e t o m b r o of he fathe r . A statue of Ap llo holdi n g th e lyr e with a gri ffi n at his feet foun d n ear the s ulphureo us Wat e r s on t h o t e r ad o Tiv oli .

C ABINE T .

S om e obj ect s of i n tere st in the hi s tor y of t he art s ar e n e a n o t e e d t he re u it d , but r e x pos o publi c vi ew. The Ven us o f the C o e e e th e apit l , is admirably x cut d ; gro up of Cupid a n d s he a n h en P yc w s fo un d o t e Av ti ne .

’

I . s . MAR I A D ARAC OEL

This church was built in the XI c en tury on the sit e

t he e 1 2 2 of th e t e mple of Jupit e r . Till y ar 5 it was a B e as h n e dic t in e a b b e y . It w given t o t e Fra n cisca n friar s b y

I n n o c en t lV. It is divid ed i n t o thre e n av es by 22 c olum n s of egy pt ian gra n it e o f di ffer en t dim en si on s ; o n the third n ear t he pri n cipal en tra n ce is th e i n scripti o n c v exc v w av e vsr o a vm;

n o l n ed t o t h th es e colum s pr bab y b el o g e impe rialpalac e .

The ci eli n g was gild e d u n d e r Pius V .

h on the t r In t e ﬁrs t chap el right d edicate d o S . B e n ardi n o di Si e n a ar e s o m e fr esc oes ra n ed am on gs t th e kl n t e e o . M b est W o r ks o f Pi n turicchi o . I h chap f S atth ew thi s ap ostl e a n d th e pri n cipali n cid en ts of his li fe w er e

n . F n i n n pai n t e d by Muzia n o . I that of S ra ci s s a pai ti g by

T e n an d o e the e n e n e r visa i , v r high altar a v ry a ci t imag o f the Virgi n ; som e pai n ti n gs by Niccola di Pesaro d ec o l f th M on and of e th e ls f . o e rat chap e o S Pau , ad na

n . 5 . An th o y 2 7 Second day .

In the choir is a fi n e pai n ti n g o f th e sch oolo f R a o phaelwhich r e pres en ts the Blessed Virgi n with S . J hn e n d is ose t o b e o Bapti s t an d S . Eli sab th , a supp d by Giuli

Roma n o.

PALA C E O F T H E C ONSERVA T ORI .

Un der th e p o rtico o n t he right is a statu e of Julius Caesar co n sid e re d t o b e the o nly auth e n ticat ed po rtrait kn ow n of that c e l e brat e d m an ; on the left is that o f Au gustu s with a prow at his fee t allusiv e to th e vict o ry o f

n he n e n Actium . Aro u d t court ar e se v e rala tiqu fragm e ts th e l ur n o n the l e ft a colo ssal h ead o f D o mitia n , s epu chral f n e of e n s t he en ts o f two o Agrippi a wif G rma icu , fragm l n n e an d s to p orphyry co um s , a br o z e h ad arm aid have e b e l on g ed t o the c olossalstatue of Co mm o dus . Two statu s o f Dacia n ki ng s with Home triumpha n t in the cen tre ; a group of a li on attacki n g a ho r se fo un d in t he stream

o an d l e e l n s o s e Alm , a arge p d s ta which o ce upp rt ed a tatu of Adrian .

H ALL O F T HE BU ST S.

s n s e e to le th e s Piu VII tra f rr d this p ac bu ts , pr e v iouslin the n eon o f men lls o s in th e s en y Pa th , i u tri u ci ce s, lett e rs an d arts . The pri n cipa lr egulations of thi s establishm e n t ar e tha t it is de sti n ed t o p e rp etuat e the m e mory of ce l ebrat e d Italia n s ; a n d that the busts of th os e only who hav e be en ° ack n owledg ed t o have possessed a gen ius of the highest o rd e r can b e admitt ed . In the ﬁrst roo m ar e the portraits of c ele brat ed fo

' r ei n ers who es e in l o n Men n e l g r id d Ita y, P ussi gs , Wi k man n elK ff n an d e e f h F , A g ica au ma Sué dir ct or o t e r e n ch de R m aca my at o e . 28 Guide ofHome

In the second the p ortr aits o f c elebrat ed italia n art ist s o t he XIII XI an d e n e the f , V XV c turi es e x ecut d at e xp en s e of C n o : t h e ﬂ o r en tin e n e s N ol n o t a va Bru ll e chi , ic o Pi sa he

lo an d e o o r a n a scu pt r archit ct , Gi tt , O c g , b o th disti n guish ed in n n l e an d pai ti g , scu ptur archite cture ; the ﬂor en t in c

n M o o n n F o an d th pai t ers asacci , Gi va i di i es l e , Ghib e rti e sculpt o r Don at ello . The third r oom con tai n s the p o rtrait s of Pi us VIL

d o R e the o e n an f apha l , f rm r by C a o va who at his own e xp en se rai se d busts ex e cut ed by sun dr y ‘ ar tis ts o f his day to t h e foll owi n g c e l e brat ed m en of th e XVI c e n tury :

T n eon o n M e n e o B uo n a r o t ti itia , L ard da Vi ci icha l A g l

i h olo eo 8. M o M n e n n o Palladio f Bart m di arc a t g a , Sig r olli Pi etro Pe rugino A n dr ea de lSart o Marc A n ton i o R on the olo n e e e n e C o e o le o ai m di , b g s grav r r ggi , Pau V r n e an d th e e s n e an d n e . es , archit ct Brama t Sa mich li Th e fo urth r o om co n tai n s th e bust s o f arti sts who f u ed in th e X VI and en es : Ao l o rish , XVII XVIII c turi n ihal e C aracci by Naldin i ; Ca n ova pre s en te d al so the Fra n e f o o n t he c esco Marchi a military archit ct o B l g a , Giulio

R o m a n o Polyd or o d i C a r a va ggi o t he Seba stia n del.

ln o N n n U d . Pi ombo Ghir a dai , a i di din e , an Dom en ichi n o In th e ﬁfth r oom we ﬁn d th e busts of the e n grav e r le of the en n ee R n of e o C o on an d Pick r ; gi r api i Pi tr di rt a ,

n e M n o ele e e n e an d of Pira si di aja a c brat d grav r architect . Th e sixth con tai n s th e bust s o f lit e rary charact e rs

T n o Me o n n lC o o on e n rissi tastasi A iba ar , B d i V uti , l Man uccius Mo n e r olan d Be c A dus , rgag i V rri Ba t i

e e n e b t e e n s o r e es . caria , pr s t d y h ir fri d r lativ At th e e xpe n s e an d u n d e r t he dir e ctio n of C a n ova the ! foll owi n g hav e also b ee n plac e d he re : Da n t e an d To rqua to ’ T t h e o of E e Alﬁe r i e a an d os o asso w rk d st ; , P trarc Ari t ,

F n el olon o e C o s le o » by i li ; G d i Christ ph r lumbu , Ga il , a Tad lin i h he Murat ori an d Morg gn i b y o ; Tirab osc i , t author of the lit e rary hi s t ory of Italy. 2 9 Secon d day.

the e r m o The se ve n th r oo m is O ccupi e d by s pulch al the X1 1 a n d e e e n ume n t o f C an o v a d e cr e e d by Le o , x cut d by Fabris . es f The last r oo m is dedicat ed t o th e prof sor s o music o e who acquire d c el e brity in th ei r day . Cimarosa , wh s s e sen e n lCon bust e xe cut e d by C a n o va , wa pr t d by cardi a

f n o . salvi Sacchin i Co relli an d Pa esi ello o Tara t

ST AIR C A SE .

n th e le an in Bel ow th e first flight of s t e p s , o ft , is scripti on in hon o ur o f C ains D uilius wh o gai n e d the firs t n aval vict o ry o v e r th e C arthagi n ia n s in the year o f R ome 492 ; t hi s fragm en t of th e tim e of th e e mpe rors was fo u n d n e ar the arch of Se v e ru s . O n the walls fo rmi n g a Sp e ci e s of t e rrace a r e fo u r b as r e li e fs : t h e first o f Marcus Aur e l ius o ffe r in g a sacri fice at the t e mpl e of Jupit e r ; t he se co n d a triumph o f th e sam e e mpe r or wh o in th e t hird is r e pr es e n t ed on ho r seback an d in th e fo urth re ce ivi n g a gl ob e th e

h o n th e llo n symb ol o f imp e rial p owe r . T e bas r eli e f wa t he l e ft r e pre se n t s th e sabi n e C urtius passi n g the marsh

in the n dur g c o mbat b e twee n R o mulus a d Tatius .

H ALL S O F T H E CONSE RVA T ORI .

’ The cavali e r d Ar pin o pai n t e d in th e ﬁrst sal oon s e v e ralfacts of e arly R oma n hist o ry : R omulus and R e mus fou n d at th e foot o f th e Palati n e ; R o mulus t raci n g t h e circui t o f th e n ewcity th e rap e o f th e Sabi ne wo m e n

N o ffe n e th e t l e e e n the R 0 uma ri g a sacriﬁc , bat es b tw

n s a n d V e ian th e Ho an d . ma s , ratii C uriatii

O e e of R o n o n e e th r subj cts ma hist ry , pai t d by Laur ti , d e corat e the ﬁrst a n t e chamb e r ; Muti n s Sc aev ola bur n i n g his ha n d in pr e se n ce of Porse nn a Brutus con d e m n i n g h is 356 30 G wide ofR ome t wo on H s s ; oratius Co cl e s on the Sub lic ian bridg e ; t he battle o f th e lak e Re gillus i T he r e ar e al so statue s n this r oom of Marc A n t on i o C olo n n who n e th e e o f e n o of To a gai d battl L pa t , mmas o Ros i liosi F n e Aldob r an din i p g , ra c sco , Al e xa n de r Far n e se who o m n e in Fln e an d of C lo c m a d d a d rs ar Barbe ri n i , the

br othe r of Urba n VII . In the se co n d a n t e chamb e r is a fri ese by Da n i e ldi Vo lt e rra re pre s e n ti n g th e t riumph of Marius aft e r the d e fe a t o f th e C imbri ; an d in t h e cen tre th e wolf with R o mul us an d R e mus ; this is n o t th e o rigi n alwo lf of the

C ol n n e t o th on apit struck by light i g , pr vi ously e c spiracy o f C n e C e o re e b u th o n e e n t o n e atili as ic r lat s , t e m i d by Pli n y an d Dion ysius of Halicar n as s us d e dicat e d in th e ye a r o f R om e 458 a n d fo u n d n e ar t he sit e o f th e R umi n al

- th fig tre e at e ba se o f the Palati n e in t h e XV ce n t ury .

A. ﬁn e st atue of a sh ephe rd b oy t aki ng a thorn from oo s o f n u u th e R o n on l his f t ; bu ts Ju i s Br tus ﬁrst ma c su , n d of Pro s e rpi e D ia n a J ulius C aesar a n Adria n . In the thi r d a n t e chamb'e r we o bse rv e s e v e ralmar ble fragm en ts on which a r e e n grav e d th e c ele brat ed con s ular u fast i » d ow n t o Augustu s a n d o v e r t h e e n tra n ce d oor a

ﬁne bas - r e li e f head o f Mithridat es ki n g o f Pon tus. I n the audi e n ce r oom a r e a frie s e r e pr e se n ti n g dif for e n t O lympic gam e s b usts of Scipi o Africa n us Philip of Mac e d o n Appius C laudiu s in r oss o a n tico a striki n g

n e in o n e of M e n elo on e sel like ss br z icha l A g d by him f , a an d t e of the o he ad of Medu sa by B e r n i n i , a pic ur h ly

n family by Giuli o R o ma o . l d t In t he foll owi n g r oom A n n iba Caracci pai n t e he e xplo its o f Scipi o Africa n us ; the t ap e stry o n th e Wall s R o n o e at with subj e ct s tak e n fro m ma hist ry , was mad

h e o u n e h e s s of . M ele i n R o e . In t o s ar e t S ich , m f r c r r bu t

o r dne Po e a an d o es . Sapph , A ia , pp S crat

32 G uide ofRome

n ua n c th e e ion of o an d Es del o La f , s parat Jac b au by Garb , a Magdale n o f Guid o Fl ora o n a triumphal c ar by

o n : e of o e n P ussi a vi w Gr ttaf rrata by Va vit e lli , a S . Joh n

e r n o C u an d e ln Baptist by Gu ci pid Psych , by Luti : a a d scap e an d Magdal e n by C aracci th e Magdal e n of Alba n o h t e of e o C o on . e a triumph Bacchus by Pi tr di rt a , a S C cili

e o f Ro ma n lli . O n th e fo urth wallwe o bs e rv e a p ortrai t by Dossi

o f F : n o e o en no o - e rrara a th r by D m ichi , a chiar scur o o f

Poldor e o e of o in o y Caravaggi , a sk tch a s ul bliss by Guid ,

n an d . n n e n el e on e e : B . Virgi S A with a g s by Paul V r s a d R n e t he o e n Ro mulus an e mus o urish d by W lf by R ub s ,

o r Gio r o n e R e Le a a n d n Fe a p rt ait by g , ach l , Laba by rri , n n t h t o U es n or C irc e pr e se ti g e b e v e rage lyss by Sira i , a p

t o on e th e 5 e o f . C e n e rait by Gi rgi , di put S ath ri by Vasari , a

F n o on n o o - s o Mad on n a by ra cia , a p rtrait by Br zi , a chiar cur

n Me e e Pol o an d th e r e pr e s e n ti g l ag r by ydor e C aravaggi , t a n coro n ati o n o f h e Mado n n a with S . J ohn by author n ot kn own .

SE CO ND ROO M.

O n t he wallt o th e le ft o f th e e n tra n ce an e th e de s cen t of th e holy ghost a n d the asc en si on by Paul Ve r o

a o an d th e M on n in o n e se , n ad o rati n ad a gl ry by Garo

lt o an e e e e e e n fa o , w l dscap s by Claud , a ﬂ mish pi c by Br

n of R o e n e d f gh e l , su dry vi ews m by Va vit lli a C upi o t o e s an d an E o Ti n t ore tt o , w sk tch e ur pa by Guid o : a

o n on e an d len e e n t o battle by Borg g , a sp did r pr s e ta i on f

a n our Savi our n d the adult e ro us wo ma by T itia n . T e e ar e o lo e e e t of s at Arb ellae h s f l w d by a d f a Dariu , ie o C o on o T n t he o by P tr di rt a , a p rtrait by itia , P ly

h mus of o 3 lo R o n o o p e Guid , Judith by Giu i ma , a h ly Family of A n dr e a Sacchi th e j o urn ey i n to Egypt by Scar

e ln o . o n t n o . F n of s l i , a S J h Baptis by Parmigia a S ra cis n n l de ﬁn e o lo e esen n A iba Caracci a Clau , a Gar fa , r pr ti g 3 3 Second day .

lan d . o n an d the d e n of the Mad on n a , chi d S J h , ju gm t

n t he e on llthe e e t ed S olom on by Bassa n o . O s c d Wa is c l bra

e on o f e in o o of in os in S . P tr illa Gu rc a c py which m aic is ’ e e o n th e le of e an le o S . P t r s ; ft this classic pictur is a l g ry, on t he right a Magdal e n of th e school of Gu e rci n o . O n th e third wall a r e th e baptism o f our Savi our by

F o F an d ﬁn e . Se Titia n ; a S . ra n cis , a h ly amily , a S ba

t ian o o C an d o n man s by Lud vic aracci , a gipsy a y u g by n an d e no 8.Mat Carav aggi o , a Mad on a child by P rugi , a

e n o . e n e n an d solie th ew o f Gu rci , a S B r ard by B lli i a d r r ep osi n g by Salvat or Ro sa . The prin cipalpictur es that follow ar e a flagellation

T n o e o an old ma n b s n o a -Cle o in th e by i t r tt , y Bas a , patra

‘ th e esen e o f and . o n a ue pr c Augustus , a S J h B ptist by G r

o the of s T n o e o e s n ci n baptism Chri t by i t r tt , J us drivi g t on n o u f the l ﬁn e . e s n he m ey cha g e rs t o t e mp e , a S S ba tia

i of o t h e on e s on of . a lan d C s fulmi Guid c v r i S P u , hri t n at i n g vic e by Sc ar sellin o a ﬁn e pai n ti n g of S . Barbara by so m e attribut e d t o A n n ibalCaracci by o the rs t o

o e n h n o . e n o o o F l D m ic i , a S S bastia by Gar fal , a h ly ami y

' th e e e n l n a s . by Parmigian o , qu of Saba by A l e gri i , Chri

o e o ur o T n o e o . e o st ph r with Savi ur by i t r tt , a 8 C cilia f

o o C an d s et of C e o o . Lud vic aracci , a k ch l patra by Guid O n the fo urth walla r e t wo phil os o ph e rs by a ilCa

Pa b r ese » B e r sab ea o f a th e e he , a Palm , Grac by Palma t yo u n g e r Na t ha n an d Saulby Mo l a J e su s at t he house of th e e e s no a M le n in e an d t e Pharis by Ba sa , agda pray r h f E o o rap e o ur pa b th by PaulVe r o n ese. Behi n d this e diﬁce was the acrop olis o r fo r t ress o f Rom e an d the Tarp e ia n rock a part of which is v isib he

rom the « e l on o n » f piazza d la C s lazi o e . I t s till pre se rves a e r ta n e it c i h ight , but sho uld b e b orn e in mi n d that the soilis rais e d ab out 40 fee t ab ov e its a n ci en t le v e l and th that e fall s of e arth fro m th e t o p hav e al so t en de d to . i n ts i i e . dimi ish pr m tiv h eight Thos e who we re de clare d. Guide ofRome guilty of t rea son t o the ir c o u n t ry w e re hurle d he adlon g

c ‘ fro m this r o ck su h was th e fat e o f Ma nlius . F ro m th e C apit o l t wo str eet s le ad t o th e forum : that t o the t le ft passe s b y he substruc t ion s of the tab ularium . Un e the u e e t is d r ch rch d dicat d o S . Jose ph

T HE MAMMERT INE PRI SON.

Built u n d e r An c us Ma r t ins an d de scribed b y Varr o the cha mbe r still e xisti n g is c o v e r e d with r e cta n gular slabs of vo lca n ic st on e call e d re ddish tuffo : it s form is t n 1 hat of a t rap e zium 24 fe e t l o n g 1 8 wide a d 3 high . Towards the n o rth - we st a r e t rac es o f a wi n d ow which sh e an n n o o e d he re it s fe e bl e light . No trac of a cie t d r b e i n g visibl e it is c on j e ctur e d thalcri m i n als w e re l owe re d i n to th e prison thro ugh the ap e rt ur e c ov e r e d with an

n n . T e s e and o n iro grati g he a s t e rn fron t i well pr e se rv d , b locks of trav e rti n e ar e t h e n am e s o f t he c on suls R uﬁn us an d h o e F th e e n t o the . e o e N rva w r st o re d it . r m st ps l adi g prison n am ed « Scalae G emo n iae » th e b odi e s of t ho s e put t o d eath in the pris on were dragge d through the fo rum a o n n o n d thr w i t th e Tib er fro m the Sub lician bridge . The se ex e cuti on s t ook place in the i n ferior or Tullia n

e p . is on t hus n am d fr o m Se rvius T ullius . It was cut in th e

o t t e e e t n e t h e elo f n n t r o ck ab u w lv fe u d r e lv a ci e Rom e . We le ar n fro m hist o ry tha t ma n y c elebrat e d p e rs ona ges n t o n f of a n tiquity di ed i his pris . Jugurtha o s tarvation ; Le n tulus C e the gus St at ilius G ab in ius an d ot he r ac c o mplices of C atili n a , by stra n gulation : S eja n us by o rd e r

f T e s an d on son of o s e of th e e o ib riu Sim J ra , chi f J ws i t by that of Titus . I t s supp osed tha aft er havi n g ad or n ed the triumphal p o mp the captive chi e fs wer e con ﬁ n ed in th e Tullia n priso n t ill se n t t o th e ‘ places a ss ig n ed as th e ir e n hi reside n c . Syphax ﬁ ish ed s days at Tiv oli P e rse u s k in g

n si of Mace don at Alb a Fuce s.

Guide ofRome

T EMPLE OF FORT UNE .

‘ It was hithe rt o g e n e rally supp ose d t hat th e e ight co lumn s n e ar th e t e mple of Jupit e r Toma n s wer e r e mai ns o f the celebrat e d t empl e of C o n cord in which the se n at e oc ll e le t o i e casi on a y ass mb d , b u alth ugh s tuat d b etween t he C apitol an d Fo rum th e fron t of th e t e mple of Con cord

t u n e d t o the Fo d n t o l an d B io was r rum acc or i g P utarch , asser ts t hat it was in the imm e diat e vici n ity o f the Mam e e lmn h m e rt i n e pri son . Th s co u s form ed part of t e t e mpl e of Fo ne ln de Max n t ius an d the rtu bui t u r e , r ebuilt by

en e . e ar e allof ffe e n et e of th e on ic s at Th y di r t diam rs , j

an d f e n n a r e 1 2 e e in . c ir or d e r , o gyptia gra it e : som e f t

mf r n c an 4 n n t h an d cu e e e , d 0 i he ight c o mprizi g e basis

h e i n n n ol capital. T e fri s e s o r am e t e d i n t e r ally with f iag e

‘ an d arab e sques b elon gi n g -in part t o th e primitive t emple an f ﬁ e e n e e b t t d o th e n p ri od o f R oma archit ctur , u he ot he rs ar e e vid en tly of th e IV c e n tury .

Se ve ralt c h am b er s of a brick c o n struc t i o n as u se d u nd e r Adria n hav e b een r ecen tly di sco v e re d n ear this temple th e colum n s an d capital s b e i n g pr ofusely adorn ed wit h t rophi e s an d vict orie 5 app e ar t o b e of th e tim e of n n n e Sept imius S e v e rus . An i n scr ipt i on o a e tablatur of th e p ortico in dicat es t hat in t he s e chamb e rs were the statu es of the twelve divi n itie s calle d C onsen t es whose n am es have b een pr ese rv e d by En n ius in the followi ng or e : J n o e s Mn e C e e n en M d r u , V ta , i rva , r s , Dia a , V us, ars ,

Me r e Ne n e ln ollo : an d at rcu y , Jupit r , ptu , Vu ca , Ap th t e o Pr t cxt at e of Ro e thes e s atu e s wer r est re d by e , pr ef ct m n a i n the year 368 of the christia er .

' O n th e right of the t emple of Jupit er Tonans are t he r ema ins of the

Second day .

T EMPLE OF CONCORD .

d e so n e e s n in R o n i o an d in Thi s e iﬁc , i t r ti g ma h st ry

h n en as o e e n e th e t op ography o f t e a ci t city, w disc v r d u d r a ma ss o f m arbl e fragm en ts of e xcell e n t workma n ship . e e e e Thre e v o tiv e i n scripti ons , o n e highly pr s rv d , hav d e t e rmi n e d it s p ositi on and agree with th e t e stim on y of a n ci e n t writ e rs . S om e v estig es of the c ella with fragm e n t s o f g ia llo

ica n o a n d v ole e ar e n ow the on a n tico , af r , i t marbl ly e s ese en t the n e r o r e mai n s . It app ar by th fragm ts hat i t i r c olum n s t h e ba se o f which was highly ﬁ n ish ed an d of t he s tyl e of thos e fo u n d at th e t h erm ae o f Titus w e r e o f

An n on e se es giallo a n tico an d vi ole t marbl e . i scripti pr rv

t h n e of M. n on e n s e e of the e am A t ius G mi u , pr f ct military t e th e e le see to e r e a sur e , who d edicat d t mp , which m s hav o the en b een de stroy ed b y ﬁr e bef r e VIII c tury .

OMAN FOR M R U .

le of o the o t n ien t Th e c e brity this sp t , m s cla ssic of a c

R me n e n n s t o t e it s l an d o , has i duc d a tiquaria rac imits

assign t o e ach e diﬁc e its p e culiar locality . Th e syst em o f

n o n e on the o of th ls s h a Nardi i , f u d d auth rity e c a sic , s b ee n i n a gr eat m easure v e riﬁ e d by the discove ries mad e

till th e pr e s e n t day . Th e R o ma n s havi n g u n d e r R o mulus an d Tatiu s oc

CU ie d th e a a n e an d th e n e th e o n l p P l ti , Sabi s Capit li e , hil , t hey had n o o the r m e a ns of c o mmu n icati o n t ha n by th e ki n d o f isthmus which , c o mm e n ci n g at th e Tarp e ia n ro ck

o n e n j i e d th Palati e t oward s its n orth e r n a n gl e . Acc ordi n g to D io n isius of Halicar n a ssus this valley was the n c o v e r e d i oo an d e a W th w ds marsh s , nd had a slop e t owards t h e east and west which was m ost sensible fro m the s p o t n ow 4 38 G uide ofRome o ccupi e d by th e gra n ary n e ar th e c olum n of Phoca s t o the

o f S v r us a n d th e o m arch e e f ru o f Ne rva . Th e spri n gs which

o t h e e e of t h e n fr m d cliviti s Quiri al , Vimi n al an d Esqui li n e fell i n t o th e vall ey on o n e sid e an d fro m t h e Av e n ti n e

C oln e an d ne n o t o n th e apit i Palati i t tha e o th r sid e , fo rm e d marsh es which i n t h e latt e r c ase b e i n g u n it e d with the o ve r ﬂ owin gs of t h e riv e r b e cam e a lak e call e d t he Ve

. e i n asc e r t ain ed t t in i labrum By a passag Varro it is _ ha h s t e o t o t h e o o f’ C ae the e e n t of im pri r dictat rship sar , xt th e fo ru m was of s e ve n juge ra a nd e ac h of t hese juge r a / con ta in in g a surface o f 240 r o ma n fe et l on g a n d 220 Wid e t he e s n e r ﬁc s o f t sid pr es e t d a supe ie squar e fee , or an e xt en si on of 5 50 fe e t lon g an d 366 Wid e th e city

e n e i t s elf b e i n g th en o n ly on e mil e in circuit . I t Was larg d t owards t h e east succe ssively u n de r C aesar an d Augustus. By the e xcavati on s made o f late it app ears that t he F o rum existe d tillt he XI ce nt ury an d was t o tally des t r o y ed in 1 080 Wh en Ro b ert Guiscard s e t ﬁr e t o this part of th e city . It was afte rwards us e d as a plac e fo r d ep ositi n g rubbish which in the co urs e of tim e accumulat e d t o t he r h eight of 24 fee t . It aft e rwards b e cam e a mark e t fo ox en an d h en c e is de riv ed its app ellati on of Ca m/70 Va cci n o.

E D IF I C E S O F T HE FORUM.

m e os of he i i ie T he fo ru of Rom e lik all th e t itala n c t s, t o f an o on o : in o e was , acco rdi n g o Vitruvius , bl g f rm rd r t o r en d e r it re gular a p ortico o f two s t o ri e s was ere ct ed with chamb er s ab ov e a n d sh o ps (tab er n ae) o n t he gro u nd

o n n n for e e n ses e e ﬂ oor . Ar u d it ma y buildi gs diff r t u W r

o f n n rs an d rais ed which on th e authority a ci e t writ e , fragm e n ts o f the a n ci e n t pla n o f R om e pr ese rv ed in th e

ol e e s ose d i n the o o n o e . Capit , w r di p f ll wi g rd r In the c en tr e of the s outher n sid e we r e the curi a mi or sen at e hou se ; on the right of this buildi n g the co 9 Second da y . 3 tium or plac e d esti n ed fo r th e p op ular ass e mbli es o r publ ic

e n th e r aecos ta lis o r o r t he e o n o f pl adi gs , g , hall f r ec pti r a n d th F an c e Fa for e ig n ambassad o s : e abi ar h , rais d by t b ius c o n qu e r o r of th e All obr o gi . O n t he l e ft w e r e he e e o f C o an d he e f n an t mpl ast r Pollux , t lak o Jutur a d t e mpl e of Ve sta . T he We s ler n sid e Was o ccupi ed by the t e mple of I a l C ae th e n b as ilick a n d th e e o f O s an d ius sar , Julia , ar a p

n . n t he n o n e t h e C o e e th e Satur O rth , u d r apit l , W r e t mpl e o f a n lh e h o f T e th e e e of n S tur , arc ib rius , t mpl Vespa sia , an d th e Schola Xa n tha .

O n th e e e e t he t o E ln b asilicks an d ast w r w mi ia sh op s. In th e c e n tr e of the ar ea w e re th e r ostra or tribu n e

en n e e t o t he eo e Wh ce hara gu s We re addr sse d p pl , thus n am ed fro m th e b e aks of th e v ess els tak e n by t h e Ro ma n s fro m the An tiate s , this tribu n e was opp osit e t o t he sen at e ho use an d surro u n d e d with t he statu es o f R om a n ambas s ador s kill ed Whil e e xe cuti n g t h e ir missi o n , it wa s plac ed u n d er Julius C ae sar n ear t h e s o uth ern a n gle o f the foru m an d e « n o o » t h e n e n e n t call d va r stra , a ci t sit e pr e s r vi g h e a f « n pp ellati o n o v e t era . O pp osit e t o the t empl e of C ae sar

Was o n of o n o i a c lum giall a tic e re ct e d n his hon o ur . At the

oo of th e e e of n o n m lliar f t t mpl Satur was a gilt c lum , i um n aureum , o which we re en grav e d t h e dista n c e s flo m Ro m e h t o t e pri n cipal citi e s o f the e mpir e , n e ar th e arch of Se timiu p s S e v e rus was the rostral colum n r ais e d t o Caius D uilius t o c omm e m o rat e his vict o ry o v e r th e C ar th agi n ian s . I n o n t he e o n o f n en t is k w by t stim y a ci t auth ors , that s e ve ral o the r m o n um e n t s e xi s t e d in the fo rum such th e n o r as Ja i , public p o rch e s Wh e re c omm ercialmen s e e h a s mbl d ; t e c olum n of Me v ius c on qu e r o r of th e La t n the e es n s e of o n i s ; qu tria tatu D mitia , b ut th eir situati on 1 5 n u certai n . To the north ea st of the Fo rum is Guide ofRome

T HE RCH OF SEPTIMIUS S A EVERUS.

R e the sen ais d by at e an d Roma n p eo pl e in the year 205 o f t he n e r a t o christia , co mm e m o rat e the vict ori e s gai n e d by S e v erus o v e r t he Parthia n s an d othe r e ast e rn n ati o n s . he T arch is decorated with e ight ﬂut e d colum n s of the o o e o e an d has e c mp sit rd r , with r li efs re pr e s en ti ng n e n the n e gag m e ts With Arabia s , Parthia n s an d Adiab e n ian s , o u t he w est e r n sid e is a stai r case le adm to the _ g platfo rm o n which Was place d t he s tatu e o f t he e m p ar o r s e at ed b e tween his s on s Caracall a and G e ta in a i n six o ses tr umphal car draw by h r abreas t . O n the left is the

C HURCH OF S. LUK E .

' O ne of th e m ost a n cien t in R om e . Alexa n der I V r es

o e an d e e t o . M n h n s t r d d dicat d it S arti a , but Sixtus IV avi g pre s e n t e d it in 1 588 t o the acad emy of pai n ti n g i t was

e lt on the e n o f e o di C o o n a n d e e r b ui d sig s Pi tr rt a , d dicat d

u o e . The n n o the r r e r sen t 8. Luk pai ti g v e r i ght altar p e t in h do of . s the s g t e martyr m S Lazaru , is by Baldi , A sum

n n n th . pt ion by S e bastia n C o ca , S . Luk e pai ti g e B Vir girr I is a co py o f Rapha e l by Grammatica . n the subt erra l o di o n ea n church is a chap elbui t by Pi e tr C rton a .

The e of the ﬁn e s lle . a e s acad my art ca d S Luc , ta V o o d o f n e s s o s b lish ed by Sixtu s is c mp se pai t r , culpt r an d archite ct s an d hold s its sitti n gs in the h ou se adj o i n i n g

on n s e e o s o f e e e t h e church . It c tai s v ral p rtrait c l brat d o R elin n se e his pai n te r s 5 t he S . Luk e f apha which is i rt d n t o ln ds es s Poussm ee o w portrait , w a cap by Ga par thr n d C is t he isee pictur es of Salvator Rosa , a a hr t with Phar b y Titian .

Secon d day .

8 . A DRIAN.

Th e on of s ilof b f r fr t thi church , bu t rick , but o e l o e s o e o the en m r y c ver d with tucc , dat s fr m V c tury of

th e n r a he oo o e e on christia e . T d r , c v r d with br z e , was

n t o n n e . tak e S . J oh n Lat e ra un d e r Al exa d r VII When the in teri or of the church was r e built in 1 649 a p ed estalb e lon gi n g pro bably t o the Emilia n basilic was fo u n d ; t h e i n n n e r b ian us scripti o i dicat s that P o , pr efe ct of the city had rai sed a statu e ther e .

C OLUMN O F P HOCA S.

Duri n g the e xcavati ons made i n 1 81 3 it was disco v e th e n on e e e oln re d by i scripti on th p d stal that this c um , with its gilt statu e o n the t o p had b een raise d in 608 b y t o e o o in c o m Smaragdus th e e xarch th e e mp r r Ph cas , e e m m orati on of th e tra n quillity h e mai n tai n d in Italy . Th e o th e r i n scripti on s subs equen tly fo u n d ar e th ose r ela t e t o t he « Ave r r un i » o s t o Mn e Av er r un ca iv c g d , i rva ,

M C is ius th ae o a n d C on n C ae . arcus p e pr t r , Lucius sta tius sar Thr ee brick p ed e stals fo rm e rly c o v e r e d with marble o o n supp rt ed larg e c lum s of r e d gra n it e . This c olum n is ﬂ ut e d c ori n thia n an d b elon g ed or i

in allo e n e g y t so m e diﬁc e of the tim e of th e A n t o i n s . Its diam et e r is 4 fee t 2 i n ch es ; th e p ed estal1 0 fe e t 1 1 in ch es in h e ight . It app ears fr o m this c olum n that e v en in th e VII c en tury t he forum o f Caesar was stillon e of the os e n e S n m t fr qu e t d p ots i R o m e .

GRZB CO STASIS.

It is a scertain ed b y pa ssag es fro m a n cien t authors an d the ln of R ﬁ p a om e at the Capit ol, that th ese n e r emai ns 42 Guide ofHome

of a n cien t archit ectur e b elo n g e d t o the G r aec ostasis or

ild n ss n e for th e e e on o f o e n o s bu i g a ig d r c pti f r ig ambassad r . The fron t co mp o se d of e ight co lum n s fac e d the t e mpl e o f A n ton i n u s an d Fausti n a ; o n the s id es we r e 1 3 c olum ns o f n el le e and of th n t n p e t ic marb ﬂut d e c o ri hia o rd e r .

T e ar e 4 I a e in e 45 in e h y f f et diam et r , h ight c o mpri sing s n d n l e e s o the ba e a c apital. The e tab atur th y upp rt is of t h i h e m os t ﬁ n i sh e d w orkma n ship . T e capitals e qualn b e os of t he n eon and t e e n s b e auty th e Pa th , h s rui may c on sid e red as the b est m od elof th e pr oportions an d os a n men ts of the corin thia n ord e r .

C URIA .

Towards the Velab r um and opposite to the Capitol was th a H stilia sed for t he n o f th e en e e Curi o , u sitti gs s at ; i t was r ebuilt by Augustus an d call ed Curia Julia . The ’ r e mai n s o f the halln owform par t o f a carp en t e r s h ou se n h e e . Th on ear t e church of S . Maria Lib ratric e fr t which was probably o rn amen t e d with a p ortico an d m arble c o u lmns has di sapp ear ed.

T EMPLE OF VE ST A .

b n in th e V I Thi s little ediﬁce was rais ed y Adria I II le of es i n t he c en tury on t he rui ns of the t e mp V ta which

d h e ﬁr e . Vestalvirgi n s pre serv e d the Palladiu m an t e sacr d II n r the In the tribu n e is a m osaic of the V I ce tu y , pai n ti n g o v e r th e prin cipalaltar is by Zucca r i . i nd s t em le O n th e d e clivity of t he Palati n e b eh thi p

e the e l o o e t o Pan an d the R u Wer Lup rca , a gr tt sacr d

- ls an d Re s e e mi n alﬁg tr ee un der which Romu u mu w r fou nd by Faus tulus .

Secon d day.

VIA SA CRA .

This c elebrat ed way r ece ived its name from th e s e c r iﬁc e s which acc o mpa n i e d th e p e ac e b e tw een R omulu s

a n o n e t he o o n ea d Tatius . I t c mme c d at C l ss eum pa ss ed r

t h e lof e n an d Ro e the of C o n t n n e e t mp e V us m , basilic s a ti , t he t empl e o f Romulus a n d R e mus o f A n t on i n us an d Fau s ti n a a n d e n t er e d th e forum by the Fabia n arch n ear which a part bra n ch e d o ff t o wards t h e t e mpl e o f

n t he o n t he s Ve sta , e d e d at Via Nu ova which j i ed circu foll owi n g the dire cti o n o f t h e str e e t l e adi n g at pr es e n t

fro m the foru m t o th e church o f S . A n astasia . The pri n c ipalbra n c h o f the via sacra pass e d thr o ugh the forum a n d ﬁ n ish ed at th e C apit ol; but accordi n g t o Varro at h t e citad el called arx sacr orum .

T HE T EMPLE O F ANT O NINU S AND FAU ST INA .

Was built by th e sen at e in h o n o ur o f Fa usti n a the n a o f h er n n o n n e e m e husba d A t i us was add ed aft r his d ath . In fron t o f th e c e lla is a portic o of six c o lum n s with thre e

e f o n o th e l e n o n f o n e ach sid o cip lli , arg st k w o this ki n d n 43 e e i n n the an d c a o f marbl e , b ei g f t high cludi g bas e

o an e n b l e o o o f e n o o s pital. Th ey supp rt ta atur c mp s ed rm u

n th e a r e a bl o cks of whit e marbl e . O fri es e b s r eli e fs of

n an d e f the e t e o c g r ifﬁns cha d eli e rs vas s o b s stylf s ulptur e .

h of th e l of e e n o o r ln o on e T e walls c e la built p p ri , A ba st ,

n e n 1 w er e c o ve r ed with whit e marbl e . In a ci t tim es 2 m arble st eps led t o the i n t e ri o r ; at presen t th er e a r e ab o ut 1 6 fee t b etw een th e ba se of the p ortico c olum ns and th e e lv elof the via sacra . Guide ofRome

O OM A T EMPLE F R ULU S ND REMU S.

It is a sc ertai n e d fro m the e ccl e sias ticalwrit er s tha t the church o f S . C osim o an d Damia n o Was built on the n e an d R a n ci e t t e mpl o f Romulus e mu s. Th e c e lla n ow th e e e of th e u is of u v stibul ch rch , a circ lar fo rm , an d o n t h e le e en was e n e the ln of R marb pav m t grav d p a o m e , en o a e n in he o o fragm ts f which r ow t C apit l. The c py of its i n scription pr e s e rv e d in a ma n uscript o f th e Vatica n li b rar o e s e e n e C on n y pr v that this t mpl was built u d r sta ti n e . Th e upp e r part o f th e t e mpl e has b een adapt ed as the v es e of the o f . C o o an d no tibul church SS sim Damia , buil t in 527 by pope Fe lix III ; a bron ze d o or brought fr o m P e rugia a n d two p orphyry colum ns fo rm the e n tra n ce ; in th e a n ci en t church n ow u n d e r grou n d is an altar

n n . u nde r which r ep os e SS . C osim o a d Damia o The tWo cip ollin e c olum n s m easuri n g fr o m the ba se t o the capital3 1 fe e t w er e a part of th e pp r tico which b e lon g e d t o t he t e mpl e o f R emus . The thre e larg e arch es n ear these c olum ns ar e r e mai ns of the

BA SILI C OF C ONSTANT I NE .

n r lius o s s in th e e 3 1 1 of the A e Vict r ay , that y ar

' this diﬁc christia n e r a Maxen tius rais e d e e which , aft e r

n e th e en e t o C on n n e . his d e feat , was c o s e crat d by s at sta ti The pla n o f this buildi n g is that of a basilic b ei n g f the on on divid e d i n to thre e n av es ; th e style o c structi f th e ae of an d o r n am en ts is id en ticalwith that o e th rm h e n i n Di ocle tia n an d o ther e diﬁce s o f t e IV c tury ; a frag 1 828 e e le s e e m en t o f the r o of which fell in s v ra m dal w r lthe ius . F o t he fou n d on e in silve r o f Maxen t r m XV til osed t o middl e of t he XVII c en tu r y th es e rui n s w er e supp

f e e . hav e b een th ose of th e t emple o P ac

46 Guide ofHome th e o e th n i t empl e f J rusal em . In e c e tr e s th e ﬁgur e of

T o n e an e e i n o n t o o e o n itus b r by agl allusi his ap th sis . O t he t wo fr o n t a n gl e s a r e fo ur Victori es of a g oo d styl e of

l e a n d o n t he e e o f t he n a e i e scu ptur , fri s e t blatur s a r pr e s en t ation o f the riv e r Jorda n i n dicati n g th e co n que st of Jud aea m en l eadi n g oxen to b e sacriﬁc ed an d soldier s

o n With r u d shi e lds . This arch th o ugh small a n d of a si n gle arcade is t h n e ﬁ es t m on um en t of the ki n d left us by an tiquity .

T M OF N S A D RO E PLE VE U N ME.

The e mp er or Adria n hims elf mad e th e design s of thi s e a n d n i i n t e mpl sup e ri t e n d e d its c on st r uc t on . D o d esig at e s \ th e primitive sit e as the atrium o f t he g old e n ho us e of

Ne o th f th n e t e e e o e h re . r , at summit via sacra ar amphith at

H n S ffe e o ﬁr e e o e Max e n t i avi g u r d fr m it was r st r d by us . This t empl e was raise d in th e c en tr e o f an obl o n g e n clo sure fo rm ed by a p ortico 500 fee t l o n g 300 wide with a d o ubl e r ow o f gra n it e c o lum n s e ach 3 if z fee t in

e . as e n o t o diam e t r It w divid d i t W parts , with two disti n ct a n d s eparat e cell ae th o ugh th ey fo rm e d but o n e t e mpl e

on s n o f two o o f o n e o n an d c isti g r ws c lum s at ach fr t , a

t e n s i n gl e r ow at e ach sid e . I s l gth was 333 fee t an d w 1 60 t e n o n e on 20 e idth ; c lum s at ach fr t , at ach sid e , allof Pr oc o n e sus marbl e (whit e with gre y v e i n s n ea r ly

in e o f the o n o six fee t diam t er , c ri thia n rd e r an d ﬂut e d

e as is pro v ed by th e fragm n ts that r e mai n . The e xt e r n al walls of th e c e lla were c o v er e d with the sam e quality of

- ia n s marbl e fee t thick e s , Th e t e mple had two en tra n ce s on e t owards th e Fo

the e s n e the of T th e o r um by st p ar arch itus , the r t o wards th e C o l o ss e um by a d oubl e stair cas e t h e r e mai ns ’ o f which ar e still visibl e fro m th e co urt ; s e v en st eps led e h t o the vestib ule an d ﬁve others to th c ella . T e in t erior e 7 S cond day . 4

of the two c ellae Was de co rat ed with p orphyry colum n s 2 fee t 2 i n ch e s in diam e t e r ; th e r oo f was gilt a n d t h e in sid e walls an d pave m en t W ere c ov e r ed with giallo a n tico

a n d serp en ti n e .

PALAT INE HILL .

The traditi on s admitt ed by a n ci en t writ ers r espe ctin g th e n ame o f this c e l e brat e d hill ar e that Eva n d e r fo u n d e d o n it a city call e d Pallan tium from his n ativ e t o w n in Ar

n e n e n o l o is de cadia , a am cha g d i t Pa atium fr m which

riv ed Palati n us . This hill is surr o u n d ed by t he oth er b ills o f R ome ;

e to the e th e l n t o th o the by th e Ave n ti n W st , ia e s uth , Es quili n e to t he e ast the Vimi n al Quiri n al an d Capit o

a i o li n e t o th e n o rth n d n o rth We st . I ts fo rm s that o f a tra pe zium 6 400 fe e t in circumfe r en ce ; it is 1 56 fee t abo v e an d t h e th e l e ve l of th e s e a was e cradl of Ro m e . Romulu s had his co ttag e on the part t urn e d t owards th e C ircu s Max imus ; Numa n ear t he t e mpl e o f Vesta ; Tullius Hostilius

l o e on th e o e oo n th e o bui t his h us summit v rl ki g f rum , An e us Mar tins o n the Sp o t wh er e th e t e mpl e of Ven us a n d R o m e Was afte rwards e re ct ed an d Tar quin ius Pris t e o o o o n t h la r m cus o n h sl p e verl ki g e Ve b u . In latt e r tim e s it was the r e sid en c e of t h e Gracchi

o f C Ho en C e o Clodius M n o rassus rt sius , ic r , ark A t n y

C Ne o a e of T e s an d of laudius r , f th r ib riu , Octaviu s fath e r

o f Augustu s . To this la s t is due the c omm en c e m en t of the

O PALA C E F T HE CE SARS.

His e n l n s on n een e o e ﬁr e pat r a ma i havi g b d str y d by Augustus built a h ouse on t he middl e of t he hillt owards the en n e n t o e lo o Av ti , addi g it a t mpl e of Apol , a p rtic o and a library . It was enlarg ed by Tib erius in the dirc e 48 Guide ofRome

“ on of th lab r um an d b l ti e V e y Ca igula , who raised a f on o oe i n th e o a n d e s u r t with p rtic s f rum , a bridg p p ort e d by marble colum n s in o rd e r t o u n it e it w ith the

C apit o li n e hill . The whol e Palati n e was n o t ext en siv e en o ugh for the impro v e m e n ts mad e by Nero which e c c upied t he Space

e een th e E n e a n d th e e n o f b tw this hill , squili , gard s

n e th «t a e » n c n Mecae n as u d r e gg r . Thi s imm e s e palace o t ain e d e n e e n o o o n a n d s ext siv gard s , w ds p ds baths e

n v e ral o th e r buil di n gs . Havi g b e en d e str oy ed by ﬁr e in th e 64th y e ar o f o ur e r a Ne ro r e pair ed it with -such ma g n i ﬁcen ce that it was call e d th e 4 d o mus aure a o r gold en

o o b e fﬁ t o o m an of n h us e . It w uld di cult f r id ea its mag i

o n t o n e n e n ﬁce n ce . Acc rdi g a ci t writ rs it was surr ou d ed with p ortico e s havi n g n o t l afs t ha n thre e tho usa n d c o lum ns an d b efor e th e vestibul e was his col o ssus in br on ze

1 2 ee t he o o f th e e e te n o do r . 0 f t hi gh , W rk c l bra d Z e us m ost o f th e r o oms a n d h alls we re ad o rn ed with statu es

colum n s an d pr e ci o us mar b les .

Th e e n o t e n n e th e e of o a palac b i g ﬁ ish d at d ath Ner , on s e e s um n e O o fo r i ts o le on c id rabl was assig d by th c mp ti , but owi n g t o th e short n es s o f his r e ign his o rd e rs we re

n o t e e e . e n an d T e o e or e n x cut d V spasia itus d m lish d , d s ti ed t o o th e r us es th e part o n t h e Esquili n e ; th e y built the C o l o ss e um an d th e rmae ; the ir s uc c e sso rs e mb ellish ed or

n e h n t n partially cha g d t e palace o h e Palati e . Afte r the

f th e n on tra n slati on o empir e it was aba d ed , su ffe r ed

i n 21 1 an d e n e in 45 much u n d e r Alaric 0 G s ric 5 , wh en t he

e a n d t h e n f th e e e o bro n z vas e s , e sacr ed ut sils o t mpl f

o n J erusal e m w e r e tak e n away . It was h we v e r con ti ually

e a the e e n e of th e e o H r es t or e d , s rve d s r sid c e mp r r e

in t he r a n d e e n n th II r aclius VII ce n tu y xist d e ve i e V I. At th e pre s en t day it pre s e n ts n othi n g but rui n s m ore o r Th e e e n o ak l el Iéss imposi n g b y th e ir mass es . v rgr ee , aur s , cypr esses an d o th e r trees add t o the pictur esque b eauty

Guide ofRome

ME T A SU D ANS.

We l e ar n fro m C assi od oru s that thi s « m eta n was c o n e n e o n an d o e f th struct d u d r D mitia , fr m m dals o e C olo sse um that it had t he for m o f th e b ou n dari es of th e

« » a « circus call e d m et ae . It d erived the p pellati on of m e t a s uda n s n o the e s e o m as o n , fr m wat r that i su d fr it . It W f u d by r e ce n t e xcavati on s that the a n ci en t ba son was 80 fe et i n e t diam e r .

The l s of th nc i n s imit e a e t quart er of Rom e II , III IV a nd n d X u it e at this spo t .

! C O LOSSU S OF NERO .

ln o When Ne ro built his g o d e h u se h e o rd er ed Z eno d oru s a c e l ebrat ed sculpt or t o e x ecut e a c o l ossalstatue i n bro n ze o f 1 20 fe e t in h eight r e pre s en ti n g his OWn por t rait u n de r th e fo rm o f Ap o ll o o r o f th e sun an d pl a ce d e n t it t it in the v estibul e . V spasia ra nsfe rre d to h e atrium o f the palace which was situat e d o n t he Sp o t wer e Adria n e re ct e d t he t e mple o f Ven us an d R om e ; t w e n ty fo ur ele phan ts w e re e mployed in re m ovin g i t t o its p ed estalth e

r ill e n e th e « n r e mai n s o f which a e st visibl ar me ta sudans . C o mmodus s ubst itut ed his own lik e n ess to t hat of Ne ro b ut

n a s afte r his d e ath t hat of t he su w s r e plac e d . Thi statu e e xist e d till th e b e gi n n i n g o f t h e V c e n tury when it was h d estr oyed in order t o c on ve rt t e br on z e t o oth er purp oses.

C OLOSSEUM.

The e mp e r o r Flavius Ve spasian us b uilt t hi s amphi th e atre on his return fro m the war in Jud aea on the Spo t o ccupied by pon ds in the gardens of Nero an d n early in

52 Guide ofRome

e un co v er d . Un d e r the pre s en t le v elwer e foun d parallel

s o e e o e t n e t n e t Wall s m lliptic , s m e r c ili ar , d es i d o support e o f th are n a . S m e o th e s e c on structi o n s we r e e vid en t ly o f t h e e n an d e o n V c tury , it app ars fr m i scripti o n s that this e diﬁc e havi n g su ffe r e d fro m earthquak e s Was r e st or e d by Lampadius an d Basilius pre fe ct of R o m e in 437

d 4 t h e e n a t he m an d e e e a n 85 ; ar , p o diu , s t ps we r r pair ed

h e o e th e a n an by t f rm r re a d po dium by Basili us. The aren a s o call e d fr om t he sa n d t ha t c o v e re d t he oun ha d on e n le n n e t o t h e t t h gr d pri cipa tra c e as , e ot he r t o the wes t a n d form ed an e llip sis of 285 feet lon 1 82 e an d 748 in e e n e . as sur g , Wid , circumf r c It w r o un d ed by a wallt o pr e v en t the b e asts from rushi n g on th e sp e ctat ors ; by d oors and pas sag e s cl o se d with bars of br on z e : t hr o ugh t he se p ass e d t he gladiat or s an d an i m n th e lo e o e e les de n ed als . O p atf rm call d p dium w r p ac sti a for th e e mpe r or n d his family an d V e st alvirgi n s . O v e r t h e p odium b ega n t he se at s for th e sp ectat o rs c o mm un i ca n se e loo s lle o o ese se s ti g with v ra d r , ca d v mit ria ; th at We r e divid ed i n t o t hr ee r ows n am e d pr aecin c t ion es an d m oen ian a the o the en 24 s e s the ; first , fr m ar a , had t p ; s econ d 1 6 ; th e third 1 0 b esid es t h e galle ry form e d of 80 c olum n s which supp or t e d t he c eili n g ; th e rn oenian a we r e subd ivid e d by littl e stair case s mad e in t h e se ats an d se e n par at ed the m ; t h e sub division s W re am e cun e i . On the seats th er e was r oo m s u ffici en t fo r pe r son s an d o n t he t e rrac e for O n th e o utsid e walls in the c or n ice of th e buildi n g Were b e am s co v e r e d with bron ze t o which Was at tache d th e v elarium or aw n i n g t hat shelt er ed the sp ectat ors fro m th e rays o f th e s un . The h o l e s s e en in thi s an d in ot he r m on um en t s We r e o rigin ally filled with iron bars tha t serve d t o j oi n the h e a e b lo ck s o f s t o n e; th ey w e re carri e d away in t e middlg s. In con s e quen ce of the traditi o n that ma n y christia n s suffe red martyrdom in thi s ar en a Wh ere they Wer e

5 4 Guide ofR ome

The r oad u n der this arch is th e a n ci e n t t riumphal Way an d le ad s t o

T HE C HURCH OF . S GREGORIO !

e P0 pe S . Gr g o ry th e Gr e at d e sce n d e d fro m th e e u

e nt an d n o le l e ci b family A n i e a p oss ss e d a h o us e o n this ot i n th e 4 h sp ; y ear 58 , e c on ve rt e d it i n t o a mon ast ery in Which he r e sid e d pr e vi o usly t o his pon t iﬁeat e ; h e also

l e n e i on o o f t h n . bui t h r a church h ur e apostle S . A drew Aft e r his d eath a n o the r church was built in hon our o f th e e on f an d i n 1 n sam P ti f , 633 cardi al Scipio B o rghese

e the on t th a th add d fr e p ortico n d e st eps . Fr om t h e t e rrac e adj oi n i n g th e church a r e m ost pic t ur e sque views of th e Co l o ss e um an d o f the palac e of t he C aesar s ; o n th e t e rrac e ar e thr e e a n ci e n t chap e ls rais e d by 8. Gre gory an d r en ewed by cardi n alB ar on ius . The

st e e t o . l o e of th e s n t th ﬁr is d dicat d S Si via , m th r ai , e s tatu e is by C o r die r i a pupil o f Bo na r ot ti t h e pai n ti n g s

In h o f . n o f t he r o of ar e by Guido R e n i . t e chap elS A drew i s a pai n ti n g o ve r the altar by Pomar an cio o n the sid es a e e an d l . n e e e n the oss r e a SS . P t r Pau , a S A dr w r v ri g cr ,

d th e a e lat ion o f t h e n o en b y Guido an ﬂ g l sai t , by D m i e t he el e e t chi n o . At th b ott o m of third chap , d dicat d o

e of . e o o e n e Mi S . Barbara is a statu S Gr g ry c mm c d by

r i r . h le cha elA n gel o an d ﬁ n ishe d by C o d e i T e marb tabl e ' place d in t h e middl e o f t hi s chap elis the same fro m which e o e e n n t o t ele oo S . Gre gory distribut d f od v ry m or i g w v p r pilgrim s .

C E LIAN HILL .

Thi s b illis larg e r an d m or e irre gular than the o thers n o havi n g a circumfe re n ce o f 1 6 1 00 fe et . We lear fr m Ta cit as that i t was origi n ally calle d Q uer que t ulan us b e i n g t hen cove red with oak t r ees ; u nder Romulus or Tatius it Second day . 5 5 was n am ed C aelius fr om th e Etrusca n g en e ralCaelius V i t o t h s n e o f the R o n b en us who had c o m e e as ista c ma s . Aft e r th e d es tructi on o fAlb alun ga T ullius Hostilius placed t d he r e t he Alba n s an d e n cl os ed it in th e city . Si n ce h e e v ast at ion s c o mmitt e d by Rob ert Gui scard in 1 080 it has

n ot b een i nh abit e d .

ND C H URC H O F SS. GI OVANNI A PAO LO. I Thi s church was built in th e IV c en tury on the site h e o e n n t o e e t o s ho e of t h us e b lo gi g th s w martyr , w w re e o r put t o d eath u n d e r Julia n . It is d c rat e d with a po t ion c o mp ose d o f e ight gra n it e c olum n s a n d in t h e i n t e ri o r

n o h e e ar e 28 c olum n s of diffe re n t ki ds f marbl e . T pav m en t is a sp e ci es of m osaic co mp o s e d o f p o rphyry se rp e n ti n e a n d whit e marble o ffe ri n g o n e of t he ﬁ n e st sp e cim en s of t he Al e xan dri n e work o r o pus Ale xan dr in um so n am ed n h fro m Al e xa n d e r S e v e rus Wh o bro ught it t o p erfecti o . T e

Po mar an i a pai n ti n gs o f t h e t ribu n e ar e by c o , th t of t he

a fourth chap el on th e right is by B e n e ﬁl. In the gard en adj o i n i n g the church ar e r e mai n s of a buildi n g in trav erti n e supp os e d t o b e t he V ivarium or e n cl osur e for th e b easts d e sti n e d for t he gam e s of th e am

hithe at r . h a o s o ies on e n e n l n p e It s tw t r u d r gro u d , eadi g ie nt t o an a n c quarry . The othe r r e mai n s b e fo r e the church probably form e d

t th « M el n » o r of t h e e t a d par of e ac lum mag um , gr a m eat n

o n ﬁsh marke t which was o n th e C aelia n . Traditi has pr e se rv e d t o thi s sp o t th e n am e o f « Pescaria ve cch ia n o r old h ﬁs mark e t .

ARC H OF D OLAB ELLA.

Fr om the in scripti on s stille xisti n g on th e ea st e rn fron t we learn that this arch was rais e d in t he t en th year of the chri stia n era b y t he consuls Pub liu s Cor n elius Do 5 6 G uide ofRome lab ella and Caiu s Ju n ius Sila n us (flamen Martiali s) a priest

o o e the e n n t o of Mars . Hen c e this arch pr bably f rm d tra ce

th e C ae n e e t h e uir ia or the Campus martialis o n lia , wh r e q , e qu e stria n gam es we r e c el e brat e d wh en t h e Campus

a t i n n th e o e f o n f t e M r n s was i u dat e d by v r l wi gs o h T ib e r . I t se rv e d as a s upp o rt t o th e aqu e duct of Ner o the r e n f e t mai s o which e xt n d t o h e Lat e ra n .

T HE C H U R CH or s . MAR IA IN D OMNICA.

Was built on th e sit e of th e hous e that b e l on ged t o r a a n i h S . Cy i c a R o ma lady ; t is call e d also t e Navic ella

from a marbl e b oa t place d in fro n t o f it by Le o X . In t he

ar e 1 ﬁn e o o oln i n t e ri o r 8 gra n it e a n d t w p rphyry c um s , a nd th e attic has pai n ti n g s in chiar oscuro by Julio R o

o n d P n ma n a ier i de lVaga . t e In th e Spac e b e twe e n this church an d tha t of S . S

e n e t h e C e r e r ine o r of o e n ph wer astra p g , barracks f r ig s oldi e rs as was asc e rtai n e d by s e v e rali n scripti on s fo u n d

a d o n the Sp o t . Th ey still e xist e d in t h e IV ce n tury n s e rv e d as a pris on t o Ch odon oo rn ar wh o m Julia n de fe at e d

n e in 359 ar Strasburg . Adj oin i n g this church is th e v illa Matt e i : the t wo larg e p ed e stals co ve r e d with in scriptio n s we r e d e dicat e d by th e soldi e rs of th e V c ohort t o C aracalla an d Maximin : e n o e a n a s mallgyptia belisk d c o r t e s the gr ou ds .

O . S. ST EFAN R OT O ND O

I t h as b e en a ssert e d by so m e Writ e rs that thi s build

th e e o f F n o e f in g was t mpl e au us , by th rs o Bacchus or o f C laudius but whe n we ob serv e that its co lum n s ar e of diffe r e n t ' o r de r s and diam e t e rs ; that the c r oss s urm o un ts s o m e o f the capitals ; that it is k n ow n fro m A n a sta s iu s t he

on Libraria n t hat PO pe S . Simpliciu s c s ecrat e d this church in 46 n n o b e e n e n e e 7 , it ca t d i d that it is a christia diﬁc f t e e n Ro nd o he V c en tury; it is calld S . St fa o to o from its

®®Il®3 ©I?s ome

T H I R D D AY

F RO/II THE LATERAN TO T HE Q UIRINAL.

PIAZZ A OF 8 JOHN LA T ERAN.

i Thus n am ed fro m Plautiu s Lat era n who r e sid ed this n h e n en e o e ﬁr e ~ as quart e r . T e palac havi g b e d str y d by W r e built by Sixtus V acco rdi n g to the de sig n s of Do m e n ic o

n o r e . Fo n ta na . The prese t P pe has r est o d it

B AB T ISTR Y OF CONST ANT INE»

Thi s buildi n g was rais ed by C on sta n t i n e in th e La e en b e e e e th e h as e o e d t e ra n palac wh r ct d churc , it W r st r in t he e n e n e o XIII an d in 1 640 IX c tury , th by Gr g ry by e a th e Ur ba n VIII . An a n tiqu e ur n o f basalt se rv s s bap t is malfo n t it is surm o u n t e d by a cupola supp o rt ed by t o o f o n an d of wo r ws c lum s , e ight o f whit e marbl e e ight

o e e n a n n e t o p o rphyry . Ab v th se c o d r ow ar e p i ti gs allusiv

o n t n e . In th e e e S . J h Baptis by A dr a Sacchi lat ral chap l o n the right ar e two ser p en ti n e c olum n s an d a statue of

o n o the o n lb o n e lo . S . J h fr m rigi a y D at l

X BA SILIC or 3 . JOHN LAT ERAN.

Thi s basilic is the ﬁrst of Rom e and o f the catholic world ; from C on sta n ti ne it is c alle d t he Co nst a n t inian ; fr 0 m the s on is b ilth e e n and in een p ot which it u t Lat ra , hav g b

60 Guide ofRome c i e en e an d a r e o e t b e t rcumf r c , supp s d o h ose form ed b y August us of th e Spar s of th e egyptia n v essels captur ed at t h e battl e of Actium . In th e tribun e is the altar of our S aviour with mo sai cs ; o n e of th e pr e ci o us obj e cts pr e s e rve d in t his basilic

t h t b le se d t h e t s e of is e a u at las upp r C hrist . A n n ex ed to t h e church is a clo is t e r of the X III c en tury in which Ur b an o VIII colle ct ed severalm n um en ts of the middle ag es.

SCALA SANTA .

When Sixtus V r ebuilt the Lat e ra n palac e b e pr e se rv ed the ch apelan d th e triclin ium of Leo 1 1 1 which had n ot suffe r e d fr o m ﬁr e : h e rais e d a p ortic o acc ordi n g t o the d es ign s of F on ta n a and plac e d u n d e r it th e s tair ca se al which e xist ed in th e palace of Pilat e at Jer us e m , on

n e e which o ur Savi o ur passe d s e v e raltim es . Havi g b n thus s n e t he ln o e n on t e n ee an d a ctiﬁ d , faithfu wasc d it h ir k s , des cen d by t he fo ur lat e rals tair case s . It con sists o f 28 marbl e st e p s so con sum e d by frict i on that it b e came n e e c ss ary t o cove r th e m with w ood . t o o t h n e t lo f th e At the p f e stairs , u d r he a tar e chap l, is an a n ci en t an d highly v en e rat e d image of o ur Saviour an d in four ca se s m ad e of cypr ess w ood ar e r elics which hav e giv en t o this chap elthe app e llati on of Sa n cla Sa n

t e n n a e d d or um . In h e e xt r al iche r e pres rve the mosaics

of th e triclin ium of S . Leo III .

P ORTALS. GIO VANNI .

Sub stituted b y Gr eg ory XIII t o th e an ci en t Asin ar ia e t us lld m e sin ia il i Tot la gat h ca e fro th A fam y , by wh ch i

en ter e d R om e . Two mil es from t hi s gate is t h e a n cient via Lati n a T e co vere d with r uins of t omb s and other b uildings. o on Thir d day . 6 1 of the se rui n s was give n t he n am e of t e mple of F e mal e

th i e of o o n Fo rtu n e c el e brat e d for e f lial pi ty C ri la us , but as th e dista n c e assig n ed by Plutarch and Val e t ius Maximu s do e s n ot agr e e With thi s traditi on it is in th e farm at

Roma V ecchia that thi s t e mple must b e plac ed.

I MM . BA SILI C OF S. CROC E N GERU SALE E

T s o n e of the se en s l of R o e Was hi church , v ba i ics m ,

He n t he of on st an t in e an d e e e built by S . l e m oth e r C r c iv d it s app ellatio n fro m a larg e p orti on o f the holy cross which that e mpr e ss had fou n d at Je rusal e m an d d e p osit e d here . The thr e e n av es ar e se parat e d partly by e ight larg e c olum n s of egyptia n gra n it e ; th e « b aldacch in o o is sup o ln an d n e p rt ed by fo ur colum n s of br e ccia c oral i a , u d r t he altar in a n a n tiqu e basaltic ur n ar e t he b odi e s of

i . t . n t h o o f th e b n e S . C esar us an d S A n as asius O e r f o tri u a r e s o m e ﬁn e fr e scoes by Pi n turicchi o th ose in t he sub e n n e f H len ar e Po mar an ci an d the t rra e a chap l o S . e by o , m osaics ar e by Baldassar e P eruzzi .

Ne th ar e n n ow ns o e n o ar e church rui s , tra f rm d i t

ls fo r m lls o e t o e of th e c el ar , e y upp s d o have f rm d part t empl e of Ve n us an d C upid in t he Varia n i gard en s which

lon e t o n us lls th e of He o ls . b e g d Varia Marce u , fathe r li gaba u Th e n e ighb ouri n g aqu educt of C laudiu s br ought th e Aqu a l t o th aeln an d ln e l an d un e C audia e C ia Pa ati hi ls , d r Sixtus V se rv ed as a supp o r t t o th e aqu educt of th e F Aqua elic e . In the villa Con ti r emai n s of th e r eserv oir of the

ae e d au therm of S . H len hav e b een di scov er ed an th eir th en ticity is established b y inscriptions fou nd on th e sp o t . Guide ofRome

NF T T R A I EA O C A STRENSE .

Thi s buildi n g in which th e military fes tivals called castr en sic e e e e e e on o t gam s W r c l brat d , c sist ed f wo sto r i es an d th e e xt eri o r was d e co rat e d with co ri n thia n pi le s an d ast r half c olum ns . It was e n clos ed withi n the walls Hon o by rius . Pass i n g un d e r the Ne ronia n a rches of an elegant c on s truction we arri v e at the

P ORT A MAGGI ORE.

As it was customary am on g the a n cien t s to give an imp osi n g asp e ct t o th o s e parts o f t he aqu educts which c r ossed th e public r o ads t he e mpe r o r C laudius raise d at this spo t a m o n um e n t i n th e form of a triumphalarch Which may b e co n sid e r e d as on e of th e m o st mag n iﬁc ent

an cien t R o e . i s o f e n o o o s of e oft m It built rm us bl ck trav r t i n e an d is comp osed of two large an d thre e s mallarches with colum n s . In cleari n g away th e c o nstructi on s rais e d on it in the ' middle ag es a se pulchr e was fo un d in a t ow er b eari ng an n s on t o M Vir ilius E e b e i cripti arcus g urysac s , a rich ak r Un e Hon i n th e latt er tim es of th e r e public . d r o rius this mon um e n t was d e sti n ed t o c o n tai n gat e s of t he city an d o se t o es o n e e e th La ica b ei n g c mp o d of w arch b cam e b n , th e o the r th e Pren esti n e gate 5 the form e r has long since d i sapp eared . B eyo n d the gat e in th e city Walls on th e left the car n als of th e aqu a; Julia Tepula an d Mar c ia ar e stillv i sible and at a sho r t di s ta n ce that of the A n i o v e tus sunk in t he groun d . e on d th e e t he Lab ican a on the i ollows B y gat , w y r ght f the dir ection of Lab icum a city of La tium mentioned by

6 4 Guide ofRome

' B e tw een this ediﬁc e an d th e P orta Maggi o r e ar e two

ol o n e u Ar t un t ius o n in c umbaria , built by L cius , c sul the VI ye ar of o ur e r a t o r e c e iv e th e ash e s of his slav e s . O n th e righ t ar e th e r e mai ns o f an a n ci e n t fo u n tai n g e n erally call ed th e

T ROP H IE S OF MAR IU S.

O n acco u n t o f t he two m arbl e trophi e s formerly

le o n the e o n e n t a n d t n e e un e p ac d sid s , as r am s , ra sf rr d d r Sixtus V to th e balustrad e o f t he C apit o l ; in e x a mi n i n g th e i s t lof he e o e an d h n i s e en t y e t s tr phi s o f t e buildi g , it vid that th ey ar e of t h e tim e o f Se pt im ius S e v e rus who r e s o th e th t r ed aqu e ducts o f e city .

C H U R C H OF S. BIBIANA .

C on i i n s ecrat e d n 470 n hon o ur o f Bibia a , this church

as e o e I 24 an d U n W r st r d by Ho n o rius II in 1 2 , by rba VIII i n 1 25 n s of e n ni. 6 7 Who rais ed th e fr on t on th e d e sig B r i It is comp o s e d o f thre e n av es divid e d by a n tiqu e gra n it e th c olum n s ; th e fr esc oes o f th e middl e n av e allud e t o e l is o f . th e hist ry o S Bibia n a wh os e statu e , at high a tar ,

c on sid ered t o b e on e of th e b e st wo rks o f B e r n i n i . lala U n d e r the altar is an a n tiqu e ur n o f o r i e n ta e f baster 1 7 fe e t in circumfe r en c e con tai n i n g th e b o di s o

s n f D em r an d f e o e . D a hros e . this ai t , o S . et t a o th ir m th r S p

B . S. EU SE IU S

This church is v ery a n ci en t ; th e r oof was pai n t e d

b Men an d o e e o es o f e t e e en o n y gs , s m fr sc m ri hav b f u d n he o n the walls of the sub t e rra n ea n chamb ers existi n g i t

gard en . Thir d day .

O . PORT A S. L ORENZ

in ll lled ib nr tin e the o d sse Orig a y ca T , r a which pa s as u n der it b ei n g that of T ibur o r T iv oli . I t w built by Hon orius i n 402 a nd supp orts th e a n ci en t aqued uct of

n an d a th e Julia n Marcia Tepuln wat ers .

O N O O UT OF T H E . 8 . L R E Z WALL S

Th i s basilic built by C o n sta n ti n e in 330 was restor ed by sev eralP o p e s particularly by Ho n or ius 1 1 1 who add ed

t o n 1 2 1 a n d e for t he o on on he p ortic i 6 , us d it c r ati of th e

f e e e e de C o e n n e c ou n t o Aux rr , Pi rr urt ay, as lati mp er o r

of Con s ta n ti n opl e . The p ortico h as six j on ic c olum n s o f differ en t dia

h n n e le to the o of H n me ter s ; t e pai ti gs r at hist ry o oriu s ,

a n d e en . of SS . Laure n ce St ph The i n t eri o r has thr e e n ave s divid e d by 22 j on i o co lumn s of gra n it e ; n e ar th e e n tra n ce is a n a n tiqu e sarc o

h a us has e e e e e n n R o n p g With a r li f r pr s ti g a ma marriage . In the middl e n av e a r e t wo marbl e « a m b o n es » us ed for

n h si n gi n g the g o sp e l a n d e pistl e . I t e tribu n e is th e nu

on le n l h n o n e n e ci en t P tiﬁca s at i aid wit su dry st s ; this tribu , the primitiv e b asilic has 1 2 ﬂut e d c o lum n s o f vi o l et

t h e e of n e o n marbl e e gr at r part which is u d r gr u d , two of the e o e n e of n e e capitals hav tr phi s i st ad aca thus l av s . O ver thi s e n tablature ar e tw elv e small e r c olum n s t wo o f n h gr ee p orphyry . T e high altar is or n am en t ed with four of r ed p orphyry suppo rti n g a marbl e baldacchi n o u n der n Which r e p os e th e b odi e s of S . Laure c e a n d the pr o t o m . e e n n artyr S St ph . B ehi d th e tribu n e is th e sarc ophagu s

on n e th e r e n o f . o i n 41 Which c tai d mai s S Z simus Pe p e 8 , havi n g bas r eli efs r e pre s e n ti n g g e n ii gath e ri n g grap es a s e e n s e an ubj ct fr que tly e n on the early christi m on umen ts . 6 6 Guide ofR ome

The subt e rra n ea n chap elin th e le ft n ave is cele brat e d for the privileg e s an d i n dulge n ce s gra n t e d b y di ffe r en t

Pop es t o those wh o visit it .

ARC H O F GALLIENU S.

‘ E as e This arch situat ed n e ar S . u sebius w d dicat ed t o Galli en us ab out t he ye ar 260 ; it is form ed o f larg e

e t rave rti n e bl ock s an d is in g ood pr e s rvatio n .

n he n en The church o f S . Vitus was built ear t a ci t

« M el Livian um » was e u th e ac lum , Which r b ilt by Livia , wife o f Augustu s n e ar it is a m on um e n t in egyptia n gr a

n e n it e with a cruciﬁx an d a ﬁgure o f t h e B . Virgi rais d by C l em e n t VII I in 1 595 t o co mm em o rate the abs olution

en F n giv t o Hen ry IV of ra c e .

i a ior is o n o f O n the piazza o f S . Maria M gg e a c lum t he o n n o 8 x z e n ln the se c ri thia rd e r 5 f fe t high , i c udi g ba a n d lan d 1 9 e e n n e en e b e capita , f t 3 i ch es i circumf r c ; it

o n e t h Paul e o n the l g d o t e ba silic o f C o n stan ti n e . V plac d

s n n . ummit t he bro ze s tatu e of the B . Virgi

s . M R I M IOR . CL A A AGG E

Thi s church is situat e d o n the summit of the Esqui i I n e call e d C ispius n e ar t he a n ci en t t empl e o f Jun e Luci n a ;

as i 3 ' it w built n 52 i n c o n s e qu e n c e o f a visio n of S . Libe riu s an d Joh n th e Patricia n which was c on ﬁrm e d o n t h e

folo n lo f n o n th 5 th l wi g day by a fa l s w o e august , a mi r acl e which gav e rise t o the fe stivalstillc el ebrat e d on tha t

t e n e h S day by h e church . Th s ow c ov red t e pac e which the

n e n e to o an d fo r e o n buildi g was d sti d ccupy , this r as it

a n was th e n call ed S . Maria ad Niv es but owS . Maria

M o e a th n l e t o th aggi r , s it is e pri cipa church d dicat ed e

M on n a f ad n a . I t is o e o f th e s e v en basilics of R o m e nd o th o e f ur which hav e a holy gat e for the Jubil ee .

Tb ir d day. 6 7

III n l e In 432 Pe pe S . Sixtus e arg d this church which was r e st or e d an d e n rich ed by s ev eralP op es an d par t icu h on t o o o f co la r ly by Ben e dict XIV . T e fr t has w r ws lumn s on e o the o e o n n on the o e o r , d ric , th r c ri thia l w r p

o e n o n s ar e ele s tic o , supp rt d by e ight gra it e c lum , bas r i f a n F o t e en l n d a s tatu e o f Philip IV ki g o f Spai n . r m h c tra balco n y of th e upp e r po rtico th e s o v e r e ig n Pon tiff giv es his bl essi n g t o th e p eo pl e ; th e m osaics ar e by Gadd o

n o of C Gaddi a c o t e mp rary imabu e . Th e i n t e ri o r is c o mp ose d of thre e n av es s eparat e d by

3 o n ic e o n en o th e n 6 j marbl c lum s tak fr m e t mpl e of Ju o .

The e lo f th e o en l chap h ly Sacram t , bui t by Sixtus V

n th e e n o f Fo n n is o e e le a n d o d sig s ta a , c v r d with marb n d ec o rat ed with pai n tin gs an d c o ri n thia n pilast ers . O th e

i th e o o f o n s e o right s t mb Sixtus V ad r e d with his tatu , f ur v e rd e a n tic o c o lum n s bas r eli e fs a n d th e s tatu e s of

. F n n h e f S ra n cis a n d S . A th o y of Padua : o n t e lft is that o

. i s S Pius V, whos e b ody pre s e rv ed in a v e rd e a n tico ur n

o n n n ad r ed with gilt bro z e . I the middle of the chap elis th e altar o f the holy Sacram en t with a mag n iﬁce n t tab er n a le o o n e s upp rt ed by f ur a ge ls of gilt br on ze . The high altar is is o lat ed ; i t c o n sists o f a gra n d or ' p phyry ur n co v e r e d an d a marbl e slab with four bron ze

ls the o n e n o gilt a n g e at c r r s , ab o v e it is a rich baldacchi supp o rt e d by fo ur p o rphy r y c olum n s a n d surm o u n ted by six marbl e ﬁgure s of a n g el s . Th e m o saics of the gra n d arcad e allud e t o subj e cts o f t h e old t estam en t an d of the l f he ife o t B . Virgi n .

The s o e lof the o e e umptu us chap B rgh es e family , r c t ed on t h n of Fl n n o n by Paul V e d esig s ami ius P o zi , c o t n se e l n n an d o ai s v ra pai ti gs vari us sp eci e s of m ar bl e . O n

t h e le t t he o o f Pon tilf on t h t o f f is t mb that , e righ that

C le en t e e m VII I b oth d e c orat ed with statu s , bas r eli fs

a nd o n . The e of . of o f A o n c lum s statu s St Basil , David , ar

an d . n he l f the S Ber ard ar e W ork s of Cor dier i. T a tar o 38 Guide ofRome

B . Virgin is adorn ed with fo ur ﬂut ed column s of orien tal j a sp er ; the bas e and capitals ar e of gilt bron z e th e fr ese an d the e lof t h e o n h i p d esta s c lum s a r e of agat e . T e i mag e of t he Mad on n a said t o hav e b een pai n t e d by

- 5 . e e n e lazzuli an d e n t h Luk , is rich d with lapis circl ed wi e o s o n h e e o f th n r pr ci u st es . T e bas r li f e e tablature epr e sen s t e n he o t h miracul o us fall of s ow . T frescoe s ve r th e ’ alt ar ar e by t he C avali e r d Ar pin o th ose o f the cup ola b C ivoli t he n n n e t h e n o s an d es y , pai ti gs ar wi d w arcad

r n i n over the t o mbs a e am o g the b est compos tio s of Guido.

D . S. PRA SSE E

It is r elat e d that at th e solicitatio n o f S . Praxedes

e 1 a o in th e ae o S . Pius I e r e ct d in 60 n orat ry e th rm f No v o e n t he S o t o m e l « atu s her br th r , o p f r rly ca l e d Vicu s Later itius » t o Which th e Christia n s r e tir e d in tim e s of

r se n . h e e n e ed pe cuti o T e church with its thr av s , divid

1 n lin 22 by 6 gra it e c olum n s , Was built by Pasca I 8 . At the high altar a r e fo u r p o rphyry colum n s ; the step s leadi n g t o t he t ribun e ar e o f r o ss o a n tico th e large st b lo n o f o n in c h a elt o th e cks k ow n . A part a c lum a p r ight is in hi gh v e n e rati on it Was br o ught fr o m Je r a s a

b e t h o our o lem , an d is supp o s e d t o e sam e t which Savi ur

a n Was b oun d duri n g his ﬂ ag elltion . A pai ti n g of this sub j ec t by Julio Roman o is in the sacristy .

T NO . S. MAR I

- i es r a t A church was built on thi s spot by S . S lv te t he an d o it th e ese nt wa t im e of C on sta n ti n e , v er pr church s e r e cte d in the y ear 500 ; thi s was e mb ellish e d in 1 650 h n es e ‘ a n d at the e n d of the la s t c e n tury . T e three av ar di vide d by 24 a n tiqu e c olum n s of di ffe r e n t qualiti es of mar

h in n h ar e s b le . T e landscap e s pa t ed o t e walls by Ga par ,

Guide ofRome

S. PIE TRO IN VINCOL I

Built by Eud oxia the wife of Val en ti n ia n III emp eror o f th e We st t o pres e rve th e chai n s which u n d e r Her od n t he on of e e for b ou n d S . P e t e r i pris J rusal m ; it is thi s r on in n ol es o e in 1 3 and e as call e d Vi c i It Was r t r d 50 , 1 emb e llish ed i n 705 .

T en t o e f e o n s of e e e sev en w y d ri lut d c lum gr k marbl ,

et in e e n e e th n a-v s t o o n fe circumf r c , divid e e g w f gra it e supp ort th e middl e arcad e . O n th e ﬁrst altar is a pai n t

n n ue n h o i g o f S . Augusti by G rci o ; t e t mbs of cardi n al s Mar ge t ti a n d Aguc e i ar e fr o m t he d e sig n s of Do m en ichi n o

o n d h o n d he e s wh pai t e t e p rtraits a t 5 . P t e r pr e erve d in t e h sacristy . The t o mb o f Julius II is fr o m th e d e sig n s of Micha el

n l ho e A ge o w plac d in t h e m iddl e his c ele brat e d statu e of Mo s e s c o n sid e r e d as on e of the mast e r - pi ec e s of m od e rn sc ulptur e . I t is o f c o l o ssal siz e a n d r e pr e s e n ts Mo se s with th e tabl e s of th e law u n d e r his right arm casti n g a t e pr o achfull ook on th e p eo pl e wh o s e faith s e e ms t o b e wa

r n e o i th e n ar e V e i g . Th f ur statue s n iches by Rapha el

f ar ﬁe Mon t elup o a pupil o B uon ot ti .

h n Th e S . Margar e t o v e r t e foll owi g altar is o n e of th e b e st w orks o f G ue r cmo ; the t ribu n e was pai n t ed by

o o C o o n n the n in o Giac m ppi a Fl r e ti e ; S . S e bastia m saic is of t h e VII c en tury , o v er th e l ast altar is a Pi e ty by

Pomar an cio .

T H ERMJE OF T I T US.

The therm ae w e r e origi n ally e stablish ed at Rom e for t e o e of n in the e h purp s bathi g , but c o urs o f tim e t hese e diﬁces b e cam e place s o f luxury surr ou n d e d with p orti

c os en o s n l e s oon an d , gard s , p ss es i g ibrari s , al s , plac es des ti n ed for ath letic gam es which w ere vi ewed fr om a Thir d day. 7 !

ki n d o f th eatre . Agrippa was th e first who rais ed this n o f u n o r ki d b ildi g f t he public . His exampl e was foll ow ed by Ne ro an d Titus ; th os e of Agrippa an d o f Ne ro w e r e in t h e C ampus Mar t in s . Titus s e l e ct ed th e palac e an d gard ens of Ne o n een e n e n e o n a r ; havi g b larg d u d r D mitia , T raj n d an Adria n th e se th erm ae e xt e n d e d from th e C o losse um t o the o f . M T e n church S a r ti n o . h ey w re e ar th e palac e o f T on th e n o f as o n und r itus am g rui s which w f u d , e ls II t he o o f th L o o Ju iu , ce l e brat e d gr up e a co n . This e dific e is n ow destroye d but s o m e r e mains co n v ey an id ea of its mag n ificen c e ; th e pla n o f it is pr e s in h n erv ed t e fragm e ts o f the pla n of R o m e at th e C api tol. The subt e rra n e o us chamb ers b e l on gi n g fo r the m ost par t t o th e o e o f Ne o o e e e h us r , v r which Titus built his th rma , ar e c o ve r e d with arab esqu e pai nt i n gs which fro m t h e v ivacity o f t he c ol ours t he vari e ty an d accuracy of the de n e t he o n s ose t sig , xcite admirati of artists . It is upp d tha Rapha e l avail ed himself of these frescoes in pain tin g the Lo ggi e of t he Vat ic an .

SE TT E SALE.

This buildin g c o nsist e d o f two galleri es the lo w er on e is n ow u n d e r grou n d ; t he uppe r story had n i n e cor r ido r s s e rvi n g as a pisci n a o r r es e rv o ir of wat er , b uilt

h s ar e of a on con b efo re the t im e o f Titus . T e wall str g str uction havi n g a plast e r which r esists th e actio n of water c alle d by Vitruvius « opus sign in um » it is c omp ose d of

fragm en ts of bak ed earth mix ed with a ﬁn e c e m en t . Th e doors ar e situat ed alt e rnat e ly in places wh e r e they c o uld n ot n llan d a r e s o dis dimi i sh t he str e n gth o f t he Wa s , p ose d that fro m four of th e d oors th e e ight that r emai n ar e

le . The e 1 ide visib present corridor is 37 feet larg , 2 W a n d high . 7 2 G uide ofRome

a B eyon d the church o f S . Maria in C r in is s o called

th n ae e o f n m m from e C ari , a quart r a n ci e t Ro e so n am ed fro ’ i ts ese ln e t o th e h e els of shi s th e To e e c on r mb a c p , is rr d ti , built on th e rui n s of th e t e mpl e o f the Earth n e ar which a h W s t e residen ce of Pomp ey the gr eat .

FORUM PALLA D IUM.

The e mpero r Domitia n havi n g c o mm en c e d his for um t o t he e o f ose o f C aes an d e e e l ft th ar Augustus , r ct d a t e mple in hon o ur o f Pallas an d n am ed his fo rum Palla

i it e t h o h d um was aft e rward s call d e f rum of Nerva . T e t o n n oln e n e o n l w c o ri thia c um s , thre parts u d r gr u d ca l ed th e C olon n acc e ar e 9 r z e e i n e en e an d 29 in , j f t circumf r c

. o o k e n h he ight They supp rt a richly w r d e tablatur e . T e b as r e li e fs o n th e fri es e r epr es e n ti n g t he arts o f Pallas a r e o a I h ﬁ n ely co mp s ed n d ex ecut ed . n t e middle o f the attic i s the s tatu e of Palla s.

F OR UM OF NERVA.

This fo rum dec orat ed with a te mple t o Ner va raised l e lo o o by Traja n is supporte d by a arg wal , c mp s ed f large e no s on e n e ook s f o bl ock s o f p pe ri t u it d by b o hard w od. The style o f this c o n structi on so v e ry diffe r en t fr o m that ad opt e d in t h e fo rum l e ads t o the presumpti on that it i s a n t e ri or to Ner va by ma n y c en t ur ies; of th e di ffe r en t arch es ld to o o n e on e n lled o which e this f rum ly r mai s , ca Arc ’ h n of e s d e Pa n ta n i fr o m t e marshy atur e th oil. Adj oi n i ng thi s arch is the

T EMPLE or NE RVA .

On e o f the ﬁ ne st ediﬁces of R om e for it s c olossal a i e e and the i dim ensi ons , the b eauty o f the rch t ctur r ch

7 3 Tb ir d day .

ll a e in s of is of n ess of its orn am en ts . A th t r ma it a part n 1 l i th e p ortic o c on si sti n g of thr ee c olum s 6 ﬁ fee t n circumfe r en ce an d 45 in h e igh t an d a pilast er supp ortin g the architrav e which is ﬁ n ely o r n am en t e d . The fron t o f the t e mpl e was e xp os ed t o t he w est an d accordi n g to Palladio had e ight c olum ns an d th e sid e

e of t he ls e n e t o the ll. p orticos n i n e , exclusiv pi a t r xt wa The excavation s of 1 821 hav e pr ov ed that th e lat e ral por

e ticos r est e d on a p o dium placed ab ov e thr ee el e vat d st e ps . Opp o sit e this buildi n g W e r e rui n s b el o n gi n g t o t he t emple of Palla s which in the XVI I c en tury w e re em

n ploye d in the c o structi on of oth e r buildi n gs . 8 in o n d t he Ne ar t he church o f . Maria C amp u e r Quiri n al ar e r e mai n s of a buildi n g said t o b e th e th er maz o f Emi iu t o o e o d Paulus ls , h ugh m r pr bably they may ate fr o m Traja n as the c on structi on r ese mbl es by it s r egu

Llar it the on en s e e e n o y m um t r ct d u de r that e mp er r .

FORUM OF TRA JAN.

T o n t he n es on en of t h his c lum , ﬁ t m um t e kin d r e

n n f n n a e e t o T n t mai i g o a ci e t tim es , W s d dicat d raja by he

n n n R o ma se at e a d p eo pl e aft e r t he c o n qu es t of Dacia . It

o f th o o e an d o osed o f 3 4 o s f is e d ric rd r , is c mp bl ck o a e th e an Carrara m rbl e plac ed on o v e r o th er , d u n it ed by

on e oo . Th e e e o e o f 8 o br z h ks p d stal is f rm d bl cks , th e co o f 23 t he an d e es lo f th s e lumu , capital p d ta e tatu , of on e . The h e ight fro m t he b ase t o t he t op of th e s tatu e is 1 32 fe e t . D ividi n g it i n t o s e parat e parts t he gra n d p edestalis

1 4 ee its e 3 th e oln its a n d f t high , bas ; c um , base c a

! 90 the e e of th e s e 1 4 an d th 1 pita , p d stal tatu e statu e 1 .

The lo e e e 1 1 e e 2 i n e th e U e 1 w r diam t r is f t ch s , pp r 0 fee t . I he n t i n t eri o r of the c olum n is a wi n di n g stair ca se o f 1 82 s e . O n th e s t ps ummi t fo rm e rly st o o d a br on ze gilt statu e o f T n raja which C on sta n tius 1 1 se n t to C on sta n ti n ople in th e e 663 . e y ar Sixtus V r placed it b y the statu e of S . Pe ter . 7 74 G uide ofRome

The e ede s lis o e e l ~ larg p ta c v r d with arms , e ag es an d gar ln o f o ak e e th e h a ds l av s , w ol e of e xc e ll e n t sculptu r e and

m o sm n c o p o .

O n th e has e e e e n r li fs , r pr s e ti n g th e two campaig n s of

T n n D b a n raja agai st e ce lus ki g of Dacia who was ﬁ n ally n e in 1 0 1 a r e o e an 2 00 l va quish d , m r th 5 ma e ﬁgure s i n d e

en en o f o es n e o f ar l p d tly h rs , arms , machi s w , mi itary e n n an d o s sig s tr phi e , each ﬁgur e b e i n g ab o ut t wo fe e t b a e high . Thes e s r e li fs hav e always b ee n c on side r ed as

e f l an d mast r pi e ce s o scu pture , have s e rve d as m o d els t o

R e t o lo R o n o a n d o e apha l Giu i ma th r gre at artists . Th e mag n iﬁcen c e of t h e colum n co rr e sp o n d e d with

o f th e o m on e d o f that f ru , c struct by Ap ll o d o rus o Da masc a s . It was s urr o u n d e d with p o rtic o s o f c o lum n s s o n e an d o n e o n en l upp rti g statu s br z r am ts ; with a basi ic , a t e mpl e an d th e c e le brat e d Ulpia n library . It was fo un d i n th e last e xcavati o n s that t h e c o lum n was plac e d in t he ce n tr e of a small obl o n g co urt 76 fe e t in l e n gth an d 5 6 in width pa ve d with m arbl e h avi n g t o t h e s o u th th e wallof t h s c an d o n th e t e o e s e o i o c o m e ba ili , hr e th r id s a p rt c p os e d o f a d o ubl e r owo f c olum n s . The library was divid e d i n o t o s o n e fo r ee th e o e fo r n o s t w part gr k , th r lati W rk which w e re afte rwards r e m o v e d by Di o cl e tia n t o h is the rm ae : r e mai n s o f it hav e b e e n fo un d b ehi n d th e two

h e o o e t e s m all p o rtico s n ear th e c o lum n . T basilic f ll w d h

e on r o m e t t o e n n e n n e dir cti f as w st , havi g its pri cipal tra c t o t he so uth ; t h e i n t e ri or was divid e d by fo ur r ows of

ﬁ e n t h e e en o o e d o f c olum n s i n t o v ave s , pav m t was c mp s giall o a n tic o an d vi o l et marbl e th e walls wer e c o v e r e d

a th o o n e an d th e with whit e m rbl e , e r o f with gilt br z ﬁv e e n tra n ce s t e p s of larg e blo cks of giall o a n tico frag h n e c m e n ts of th e st eps the pav e m e n t a n d o f t e gra it o lumn s elo n n t o th e n e o er stile ar e ls e . b gi g i t ri r p y , stil vi ibll T o ward s th e c olum n t h e basilic was clo s ed by a Wa l ; f r it had thre e en tra n ces ea ch decorat ed with a p ortico o fou

7 6 G uide ofRome t wo lVe onese an d the es i t on of z Pau r , r usc ta i La aru s by n Par migia n i o . The v e stib ule of t h e galle ry c on tai n s se ve ralla n d

e b o s n an d O on t e e e Sva n e el scap s y P us i rizz , by B rgh m , v t , e ela n d t he le ~ an Br ugh Paul Brill gal ry , Assumpti on by

R en e e lo in t h ub s , s v ra p rtraits e sam e pictur e by Gior

i F n s an d . g o n e ; a 8. ra ci S Se bastia n by Guid o ; t wo

. lo Ro t o n h e o o f . n S J h by Sa vat r sa , martyrd m S Ag e s by e n o M en o f n n lC olF l Gu rci , a agdal A iba aracci , a h y ami y n h with S . Lucia by Titia t e sh e ph e rds sle epi n g by Ni c hola s Po ussi n th e p e ace b e twe en t he R o ma ns and Sa

n n b i n es by Dom e ico Ghirla da io. The palace c o mmu n icat es with th e gard en s on the de clivity o f th e Quiri n alwh e r e two large fragm en t s of a fro n tispi e c e of ﬁn e workma n ship co n st itute the r uin s of h th e t e mple of t e Sun or of S e rapis .

SANTI APOSTOLI . PL

fo n e on n in This church , u d d by C sta t e , Was renewed i n th e i n t e ri o r at th e b e gi n n i n g o f th e la st c e n tury on th e

Fo n n . n n e b as l n design o f F . ta a A a tiqu r e i ef i th e p or tic o n n la r e o e i r e pr e s en ts a e agl e graspi g a u lcr ow n . Opp sit s t he m on u m e nt of Vo lpat o by C a n o va . O n th e roof o f th e middl e n av e B acicc io has pai n ted t F n n o The e lar e or the t riumph of h e ra cisca rd e r . chap s n a m e n te d with pict ur es 'a n d c olu m n s ; o ve r t h e high alta r

a n . is t h e mar ty rd o m of SS . Philip d Jam es b y Murat o ri The t o mb of Cl e m en t XIV with t he s tatu es of Cle f m en cy an d Te mp e ra n c e is a c e l e brat e d wo rk o C a no va .

F n n e C . h Th e chap elof 8. ra cis was pai t d by hiari T e h o e t h l of the ls el desc e n t fr o m t e cross v r e a tar a t chap ,

n by Fra n cesc o Ma n o . In th e en viro n s of thi s c hurch w e r e the aFor nm Sua

« lian n a h n t m str e e t o f the C o r n e s , nd t e gra d e

le of th e Sun b lt b u eli n . p , ui y A r a

I 7 8 Guide ofRome

the el i s a O ve r chap d oo r a h s r e li e f by La n din i r e pr e sen n e n t h e e e o f th e o t h ti g J sus Washi g f t ap s l e s . T e apart en r e o e m ts a d ec rat d with a SS . P e t e r an d Paul by fr h

o o eo . e o e S a n ole t t o Bart l m , a S J r m by p g , a r esurr e cti on

n M on n o f o D an d l by Va dyk , a ad a Guid , avid Sau by h Gu erci no . T e fr esco e s of the chap e lallusive t o the life o f th e n a n d t h e n n n n o th Virgi , a u ciati o ve r e altar ar e b eauti ful c omp ositi on s of Guido . In th e o th e r ro o m ar e e xc elle n t work s of mod er n ar t ists : th e fries es of Fi n e lli r e pr esen ti n g th e triumph of

T n and of le n de T o e raja that A xa r by h rwalds n .

y pam zzo ROSPIGLIOSI.

Thi s palace Was built b y cardi n alScipi o B oxg h ese on the rui n s o f th e C on sta n ti n ia n th e rm ae an d is n owp osse ssed th e R O S i liosi by p g family . The pavili on o f th e garden is d e corat ed with the

e e e n n A e llo u n d e r th ﬁ Auro ra o f Guid o r pr s ti g p e gure of th e Sun seat e d in a car draw n by fo ur h ors e s abr e ast

a n d o n e e en n s l e t o t h e o surr u d d by s v ymph a lusiv h urs . n the e The gra n d e ur of t he c o mp o siti o , p erf cti o n of the d e sign a n d col o ri n g hav e giv e n thi s pai n ti n g a high cele t Th e e o n th e r o o m e e sen n the b r i y. e fri s s r u d r pr ti g t riumph of lo v e an d t he triumph alp o mp of virtu e are

n e b y Te mp esta t h e la dscap s by Paul Brill . In t h e adj o i n i n g chamb ers ar e : a ﬁn e a n tiqu e bust of Scipi o Africa n u s ; Adam a n d Eve in Paradis e t he n n Th e o R t riumph o f David by Do m e ichi o. ap stle s by u on o e n n t he e o o C ar b en s , Sams v rtur i g t mpl e by Lud vic r acci an d se verala n ci en t busts .

ST R . S. SILVE E

This church c on tai ns sev e ralpain ti n gs of merit . In

l an . ss on b t h e secon d chap ela Giac o m o Pa m a; A umpti y 7 9 F our th day .

n th n n e o e th e Scipi o Ga eta i , e David da ci g b f r ark ; Judith

he B th lia n s E t sh o wi n g th e h ead o f Hol ofer n e s t o t e u ; s h e r fai n ti n g i n pre s en c e o f As su e rus t h e Qu e e n o f Saba s ea t e d

r e D e n n o . The on t h e thr o n e with S ol om on , a by o m ichi sid e walls of on e o f t he chap els w e re pai n t ed by Mathuri n ’ i . an d Polyd or C arav a ggi o ; t h e r oo f by the c avali e r d Ar p n o The Villa Aldo b r an din i situat e d n ear thi s church e an d o n en on e p osse ss es s e v e ral statu s th er a ci t m um n ts .

n o f i a r e t h e e o D o In th e vici ity this v lla church s f S . mi n ick an d Sixtus a n d of S . C ath e ri ne o f Si en a b o th d e co

e of th e o n n In t h e o t ra t e d with pilast rs c ri thia o rd e r . c ur o f t he m o n ast e ry attach ed t o this latt e r church a brick t owe r was rais ed in th e y ear 1 2 1 0 by P an d olfo Suburra th se n o o f R o e . The le es e n o e t e at r m ta s r p cti g this t w r , hat it was built by Augu stu s an d that Ner o vi ew e d fr om it t h e burn i n g o f Rom e ar e i n v e n ti on s of th e middle ag e s .

h an d . e n n o o f e n T e church o f S . Agatha S B r ardi Si a ar e on th e d e clivity of th e hill l eadi n g t o th e v alley which s e p a r a t e s th e Q uit i L a lfr o m t h e V im i n a lc a lle d in a n ci e n t tim e s « Vallis Q uir i n alis » fr om t he t e mpl e de dicat ed to

r R omulus u n d e r t h e n am e o f Qui i n u s .

o h o o n in 41 a Opp sit e t e church f S . Vitali s f u d ed 6 r e substructi o n s o f t he Vimi n al hill o n this a r e n o w plac ed

th e in an e er n a an d . e ch urch o f S . L or nzo P p barrack s

D . S . ENI S

T c a n d o n e lin 1 1 9 a r e now his hurch m ast ry bui t 6 ,

e o o ccupi e d by fr n ch Nu n s f ll owi n g t he r ul e o f S . Basil ;

e a h a th y tak e c h rg e o f t e e ducati on o f y ou n g fe m l es . Though plai n t he archit e ctur e is r e markabl e for its ele

ga n c e . O v e r an altar o n t h e le ft is a miracul o us im ag e of

th . e n e on e t o . e B Virgi which b l g d S Gr e g ory t he Gr at . h T e pictur es of S . D en i s an d S . Loui s ar e b y L ebru n ; the « E e o o » a n cc h m by Luc Gi orda o . 80 Guide ofRome

The o Fon n s lle o the fo n n Quattr ta e , o ca d fr m u tai s he n e ffe at t fo ur a gls o r vi ews of th e ob elisks of S . Maria ’ M o e of Mon e llo and of t h n é de n . aggi r , t Cava e Tri it Mo t i

5 . C H R S A LE ,

The on t ns an d the o fr t h as wo ord e rs of c olum , c urt

f t e h ouse n n t on o e t he o h adj o i i g has wo p ortic os , e ab v

d 24 oln . o ther , supp ort e by c um s

’ 5 . ANDREW s.

Built in 1 678 for t he n o viciat e of t he Jesuit s b y

i m ol pr n ce Pa philj , and e mb ellish e d with marbl e c umns an d n n . In F n e ar e ee pai ti gs the chap elof S . ra cis Xavi r thr

e b a e ion pictur s y B ciccio . The high altar pi e c e is t h C ruciﬁx o f . n e o n n Un e th e l of the fol S A dr w by B o rg g o e . d r a tar lo in elthe d s is ese e d in an w g chap , b o y of S . Sta n i sla pr rv

- u r n o f lapi s la z z uli .

S. BERNARD O .

In 1 598 the coun t ess Sfo rza cha n g ed in to a church one of th e t wo r o u n d buildi n gs situat ed at t h e so uth e rn a n gles of th e th e rm ae of Di ocle tia n supp ose d t o hav e b ee n th e t e pidaria o r c alidar ia or r o oms fo r t e pid or h ot baths . S o me rui n s o f t h e th eat re ar e s tillseen in th e garde n b e hind the church.

’ T HE FOUNT AIN or A QUA FELI C E.

Er e ct ed by Sixtu s V on th e d esig n s of D om en ico Fon t a na is divid e d i n t o t hr e e arcade s by two br e ccia an d two

gra n it e jon ic c o lumn s . The c en tral arcad e c on tain s the colossalstatu e of Moses s i in the o the le l des b as elie s tr k g r ck ; at ra arca , r f

82 G uide ofRome m n e erly as o e of th halls . At th e sid es ar e th e t o mbs of Carlo Maratta an d o f Salvat o r R osa o f cardi n als Parisi o

an d Alciat o . O n th e t h elof . n o right is e chap S Bru , whose statu e by Ho ud on is n ear t h e en tra n ce t o t he tra n sv e rsal n ave which is supp ort e d by e ight gra n it e c olum n s 1 6 fe e t i n circumfer en c e an d 45 in h e igh t c ompri s i n g t heir ba se a n d . The is 3 e e lon 7 4 e an d capital church 5 6 f t g , wid S4 in h eight . The ﬁrs t p ictur e on th e right r epr esen t s th e Cruci

ﬁxion of . e e b R ioln th se on t h e llof S P t r y icc i i , e c d fa Sim on t he Magicia n : it is a c opy of th e origi n alo f Va n n i ’ a . t h e o o n e xisti n g t S P e t e r s . The altar pi e c e of f ll wi g c elis n th e n n T e n hap by Grazia i , e sid pai ti gs by r visa i , a n d t hose o f t he r oof by Bic ch e r ai an d Mazze tti . The n S . P e t e r r esto ri n g Tabitha t o life is a copy from Baglio i t he pai n ti n g n e ar it is an o rigi n alby Mutia n . In th e n av e of the high altar four larg e pain ti n gs

o e th e ls the on t h e t e esen n c v r s id e Wa l ; ﬁrst righ , r pr ti g th e Pre s en tati on o f th e Virgi n at th e t e mple is by R oma n t he on th e o o f . e n elli ; s ec d , martyrd m S S bastia , is a cla ssic w ork o f Dom en ichi n o ; the baptism o f Christ is by d C arl o Maratta an d th e ch astise m e n t of A n a n ias an Sap a phira by Po m r an c io . f the R e tur n i n g t o th e t r an sve ssaln av e t h e pai n ti n g o

n o o f t h e el C on c epti o n is by Bia n chi ; th e S . Bru chap by

the e e T e s n an d th e E n e O dazzi , sid pictur s by r vi a i , va g o f on M u on list s by Pro cacci n i . Th e fall Sim agus by B tt i

ls of Sub le r as o n t h e o o e . an d t he S . Basi iu y ad r pp sit wall d in t the In 1 20 1 th e m eridian was trace his church , with

les . s ign s o f th e z odiac c o mp ose d of vari e gat ed marb d Th e cloist e r ad or n e d with a squar e p ortico supp orte

M eln elo . b y 1 00 trav e rti n e c olum ns was d e sig n e d by icha a g T s B ehi n d t h e baths Was t h e agg e r o f S e rvius ulliu o r th e artiﬁcialrampart o f e arth d efen d e d by square e on the blocks of volca nic s tone an d a dee p ditch . B y d 8 3 F our th day.

En o e in rampart a r e r e mai ns o f the Praetoria n camp . cl s d

h a e o t he e e n l t he vi n eyard of t e Jesuits n m d Maca , xt r a h n e of part of it is e asily disti n guished in followi n g t e li n s on e an walls t o th e rig ht of Porta Pia . Th es e r ui c v y accurat e id e a of the form of r oma n camps .

T TOR . S. MAR IA D ELLA VI IA

1 The i n t eri o r of this church built by PaulV in 605 F n is en rich ed wi th sicilia n jasp e r an d co n tai n s a S . ra cis in t h e s econ d ch ap elwith pai n ti n g s on the sid e walls by

o . e e is Dom e n ichi n o . In t h e sumptu o us chap elf S Th r sa h the sta tu e of the sai n t in a n e xs tasy o f divi n e l o v e . T e Holy Tri n ity o v er th e altar o f t h e foll o wi n g chap e lis by

e n o th e on do R en . Gu rci , Cruciﬁxi by Gui i

P ORT A PIA,

This gat e r eplac ed in 1 364 th e Nom en ta n a gat e so 1 2 m es calle d fr o m Nome n tum a Lati n t ow n situat e d il r o I fro m R o m e . Its pr es e n t n am e is d e riv e d f m Pius V wh o o r n am e n t ed t h e i n t e rn al part o n t h e d e sig n s of Mi t h o o f cha elA n g elo . Ne ar t h e o ri gi n al gat e is e t mb n Hat er ius t he ae o e on e o f n o e th e Qui tus , pr t r , a p rs ag t at

tim e of Tib e rius . O n th e right o f th e r o ad ar e th e Villa Patrizi in a

n t Mas de lightfulsituati on ; Luc er n ari form erly B olog et i e e n simi and To r lon ia . The latt e r wh en th e mb ellishm ts n ow in pro gr e ss ar e c ompl e t ed willb e on e of t he m os t

len in th n n sp did villas e e vir o s of Rom e .

S. AGNE S. This church was built by Con sta n tin e on t he s pot e s ir e e th e o e a o n . A wh r b dy of S . Agn s w s f u d marbl ta s of 45 s e s n lof a r e n e o s se ca e t p , o the Wals which um r u 8 41 G uide ofRome

h r a ins i ion s l t o th e d id pulc l cr pt eads church , iv e d i n t o t hr e e n av e s by 1 6 a n tiqu e colum n s of di ffe re n t ki n ds o f

le 1 e o n o t h e e o marb , 5 small r c lum s supp rt upp r p rtico and fo ur of po rphyry surro u n d th e altar c o mp o s e d o f pr e ci on s marble wher e th e b ody of the sai n t is laid . Ar o un d th e t ribun e is a m osaic o f t he tim e of Hon orius I and on

e a tar t o h e e of o ur o B on ar th l t right a h ad Savi ur by ot t i. Thi s ch urch pr ese rv es the form of th e civilbasilics of the

R omans .

8 . CONST ANTIA .

S om e m osai c work s r epr esen tin g g en n ga theri ng grap es i n duc e d a n tiquaria n s t o c on sid e r this church as a n a n ci en t t e mpl e of Bacchus but it is k n o w n that these o r n am en ts we r e frequ en tl y us e d in e arly christia n build f i n gs . The pr e s e n t c o n structi on b ei n g o the tim e when ar t had d e cli n e d an d the pla n n o t agr e ei n g with that o f a n

e n e e e e t o o the e en o f An a ci t t mpl s , it is b tt r ad pt stat m t s tasius an d Ammia n us Marc elli n us that C on sta n ti n e buil t thi s baptistry o f a sph ericalform for the baptism of the t wo Con sta n tias his sis t er an d daught e r .

o o f o n o n the S o n A sarc phagus p orphyry f u d p t , havi g t he s e t h of the s l am symb o ls as tho s e o n e r oof , sam e ty e a nd o a e e n f rm s that of S . H l e n w o uld se m t o i dicat e tha t i t serv ed as a s e pulchr e o f th e C on sta n ti n e family . B o th th e s e sarco phagi w e re r e m o v e d by o rd e r of Pius V1 t o the

Vatica n Mus e um .

e n n an d . Emer e n tian a Th b o di e s of S . C o sta tia S a r e plac e d u nd e r t he middl e altar ; 24 gran it e c olumn s fo rm t he i n t eri o r p e ristyl e ; the e xter n alcorrid or is n early

d estr oy e d .

lo f an o on o o e l e e S om e wal s bl g f rm , impr p r y t rm d

t h o o e o f C on s n n e o n th e ex e hipp dr m ta ti e , b lge d as late cava tio ns hav e pro ved to a chri s tian b uryi n g grou n d

placed b etween the two churches .

86 Guide ofHome

in his n o e at Nymph , a slav e with a dagg er ha d impr p rly n am ed Brutus the col ossalmask s of Medusa , Ba cchus an d H e rcul es . f th e s se on s n has r O n th e walls o tair ca , am g u dry e li e fs is that o f the childr e n o f Ni ob e kille d by Ap oll o . In t h e o val r o o m a r e a has r eli e f r epr ese n ti n g the car ce r es

d F n . o f a circus , an a au

he n n n on e e of l of the T cabi e t c o tai s br z statu s Pa las ,

F rn e H e e of Glcon o f o o Saur ot on us on e a s e rcul s y , Ap ll o f the m os t r emarkabl e o f t he c oll e ct i o n a smallOsiri s

e s o f e en lH le e o n v e of ala a S rapi gr basa t , ercu s r p si g , as s

s an d o ba te r p rphyry . In the third r o om o v e r th e chim n e y is the pro ﬁle of n n o ele e for t h e of its e e on . A ti us , c brat d e b auty x cuti The lle o rn en e e s n ga ry , am t d with e ight pilast r i laid with m osaic a n d t e n with di ffe r e n t s orts o f marble co n tai n s

e He e e s of bas r eli efs o f He rcules in the gard en o f th sp rid ,

e lu an d I s e n e an d e M D da s caru Al xa d r Buc phalus , arcus Th Aurelius With Fausti n a u n d e r the ﬁgure of Peace . e n n o n th e oo e e o o f Men r e r e pai ti g r f , a cel brat d w rk gs , p

e n s o o an d Mn o n o n n s o n e s t Ap ll e m sy e Par as us , surr u d d by

i c c ola . In th oo th e Mus es . The chiar o scuri ar e by La p e r m adj o i n i n g is a gre e k b as r eli e f o f Eurydice biddi n g an e t e r n alfar ewell t o Orph e us at th e m o m en t th a t Mercury n he r e co ducts r t o th e i n fer n al r e gi on s . In th e hall o f the C aryatid e s a r e a vas e o f a b eautiful fo rm th e ce l ebrat e d Caryatid e s i n scrib e d with th e n am e s o f on a n d N olos en n o s t o e Crit ic a , ath ia sculpt r ; w o th r

C e of ln o n the s of aryatid s e xc e l e t w rkma ship , bu ts Lucius

V er us e5 asian an d olos l of ln s . , V p Titus , a c sa mask Si e u The gall e ry on t he gro un d ﬂ oor c on tai n s se v er al

e es o f T e o le E le n e h rm h mist c s , picurus , A xa d r , Amilcar , eon M n ss an d o ele e Me L idas asi i a Scipi ; a c brat d rcury , a s e o f F n n n e th n tatu austi a fou d ar e forum of Nerva , Ve us , M s F n a . a use , a a u nd a priestes F our th day . 87

U n de r th e p ortico supp o rt ed by pilast er s an d 2 8 co lumn s of di ffe re n t marbl es a r e statue s of th e ho urs an d

n e o n o a r e the of s e v e ralR o ma n e mp er o r s . I t h p o rch f Ju s tatu e of that g odd e ss ; t wo Caryatid es t he heads of So

crat e s an d P e rti n ax in has r e lie f. In th e l on g gallery ar e 1 8 h e rm es ; a gr e e k statu e o f

le oln f o e in t he e e a n d s le a fema h di g a l w r , sam attitud ty as thos e which d ec o rat e d t he fr on t of t he t e mpl e of Egi n e ; e e ar e n owin F n s o o th s Bavaria ; a au with Bacchu Ap ll ,

a n d e e o n e n e e le . le r Dia n a , a pri st ss f a ci t gr k sty This ga l y l eads to a hall pav e d with a n tiqu e m osaic ; in th e c en tr e is a Sup e rb m arbl e sarco phagus on whi c h is r epr esen t e d t he

e o f e n d marriag Th tis a Pe l eus . In the ﬁrst of the foll owi n g r oo m s ar e a p orphyry le e e f e n bust ca l d B r n ic e , with a head o gre basalt ; th ose

o f l . C araca la P e rti n ax an d Lucilla in ross o a n tic o A has r eli e f r epr es en t s Di oge n es in his tub c on v e rs i n g with Al e xa n d e r ; a D edalus pr e pari n g the Wi n g s o f Icaru s

and an a n t a E n iquc la n dsc p e foun d o n the squili e . In th e s e c o n d ar e a suppos e d Ptolemy by Stepha n os, a pupil o f Pra xit e l es ; a Pallas a Ven us : Jupit e r s eated amid the twelv e sig n s of the z odiac ; a whit e marbl e

e 22 e e in u e o n th e e e of vas f t circ mf r e n c e , f u d at t mpl Hercul e s o n th e via Appia with t h e lab ors of He rcules

s c ulpture d in has r eli e f. The third is d ec o rat ed with six colum n s an d s e v eral a n tiqu e marbles a Fau n a bust of Luciu s Ve rus black gra n ite a n d africa n o v as es ; a n a n tiqu e m osaic o n which

e th n on f th an d i is ﬁg ur d e i n u dati o e Nile , a s mall b s r e li ef o f Iphig en ia o n t he p o i n t of sacriﬁci ng Or est es an d

n Pylad es o th e altar o f Dia n a . In th e last r oom ar e a statu e o f Ap oll o seat e d on a trip od a L eda t he co mbat b e tw ee n Achille s an d Me m n on an d a fragm e n t o f c o r n ic e fro m th e t emple of

Traja n fou n d in the rui n s of his fo rum in 1 7 67 . 88 Guide ofRome

Th e b allof th e billiard room con tai n s am on g othe r a n In th o s tatues tho s e o f Bacchus n d Hyaci thu s . e ro m o p posite ar e a B er e n ice wife of Pt olem ey Ever getes offeri n g the sacriﬁce o f her hair for the safe r e tur n of h e r husba n d ; i n the roo m adj oi n i n g ar e a statu e of Dia n a of Ephesus an d o f a fe mal e Satyr .

In n o e o f th e den in se l or a th r part gar , a micircu ar p o s o e 26 oln o f ffe en es ar e tic upp rt d by c um s di r t marbl , th e of Me le o lo n r e statu es rcury , Achi l s , Ap l , Dia a , a p t e n d e d Sapph o Hercul e s Bacchus an d two C aryatid e s 20 small e r statu e s a r e plac e d o n c olum n s c orr espon din g

f t h . T e e ar e o 20 an d 2 with th ose o e p o rtico h r als busts , 0

h o le ar e o e o f E5 0 o es h ermes , t e m st r e markab th s p Is crat , a in u n d l Ho en s t h e o o ln B lb s a C . rt ius rat r Aur e ia , a igula Un d e r the p orch a r e two stat ues o f black egyptia n

le t o S n es six s ls e an d l son marb , w phi x mal tatu s a arg e ba e Th e o e ent an d n n of e gyptian br ccia . m saic pav m pai ti g s o f th e le ar e t he or k of La ic c ola t he ln es ga l ry w p , a dscap

ar e t h e l e B i h e r ai . O n th by Ar n esi , smal pictur s by cc e b a se of the s t atu e o f Ju no is an a n tiqu e m osaic r epr e s en t in o oso e an d n o e sen n g a scho lof phil ph rs , a ther r pre ti g

Hesione deliv er ed fr om t he sea mon st er .

SALAR IAN BRI D GE .

It was o n this bridg e that 350 ye ar s b efor e th e chri s t ian e r a Ma n lius kille d th e Gaul who had chall en g ed him t o s i n gle co mbat fr o m who m he t ook the t orqu e s o r g old en c ollar wo rn by th e Gauls ; this e xpl oit o btai n ed for him the n am e o f To r quat us . O n th e risi n g gr oun d n ear t h e spo t

e e th n o o n s t h T e n t mn ae wh r e A i j i e ib r was s ituated A e , o n e o f the o n n a m st a ci e t t own s of Latium . The plai n nd hills on th e right of the bridg e have b ee n t h e sc en e of e v en ts c elebrat ed in e arly R o ma n hist ory ; the d efeat of t he Ve ians an d Fidenates b y Tullus Hostilius the defee

9 0 Guide ofRome

n ize d his s s e E e t h e or o f en g by i t r l ctra , w k M ela s a gr eek

lo e o th e n o n a n d scu pt r , as app ars fr m i scripti ; that o f

Paetus an d i o r o e o o f He on Arr a , m r pr bably m supp orti n g

n on e . u o n o ff o e n e e n A tig Pl t carryi g Pr s rpi is by B r i n i . In th e thi r d is t h e fr e sco of Aurora a m ast e r - pi e c e

n Th e o e te o n by Gue rci o . g dd ess s a d a c ar draw n by fo ur o e an d e e e the o r e h rs s, pr c d d by h u s , scatt rs ﬂ owers aro u n d

n a n d h er . A yo uth holdi g a t o rch ﬂow er s sign iﬁ es day

b r e a a n d th e e le e e n . k , f ma asl p ight The followi n g r oo m c on tai n s two la n dscape s by DO an i n o an d t o e n o h n lo F me m chi , w by Gu rci w o pai t ed a s a ' u n d e r th e ﬁgur e of a fem ale soun din g a tr ump e t an d ho ld in g an oliv e bra n ch ; thi s work is n o t i n fe ri or in m e rit to th e Aur ora .

‘ s . Ni c cou ) D I TOLENTINO.

This church built i n 1 61 4 b y pr rn c e Pa mphilj c on tai n s a ﬁn e fr e sco of Pi e tr o di C o rt o n a who d e sign ed th e

h e i t u r e f . n e s a s c e c d m G a v o t t i c h a pe l. T p c o S Ag w pi fro n e the o rigi n alof Gu e rci n o i th D oria gall ery .

e n e t he o In th e piazza Barb ri i , situat d on site f the f F o o n n s o e a n cien t circu s o lra , is a f u tai upp rt d by four n t h n dolphi ns with a Triton i e c e tr e .

’ A mN . y Z c P Uc C HURCH In th e ﬁrst chap elo n the right is t he c ele brat ed pie

e o. h on e on o e th vur e of S . Micha l by Guid T e C c pti v r e

e t h . n n high altar is by B omb lli ; e S A t o y and S . Bon a

' n n e i. . l d n n s is v e tur e by A dr a Sacch S Pau cur e by A a ia , e s r s on e of th m o t corr ect wo k of Pietr o di Corton a .

S. I SI DORO .

The c on v en t adj oinin g this church is occupied b y ‘ F n i h lon th an d Iri sh ra c sca ns . T e ﬁr st chap e e right that

on the left of the high altar w er e paint ed by Carlo Maratta .

9 2 Guide ofRome

h l n spri n g . In t e arge ich e is th e statu e of Neptun e st a nd

n e o an d ing o n a car draw by s ah rses guid e d by Triton s ,

o n n th e e s o ut of c mma di g wat r which rush a mass of r o ck s . The sid e n ich es c on tai n t h e statu e s of Abu n da n ce an d Salubrity ; th e four ov er the e n tablatur e comple t e th e de co r at ion of th e attic . r i Th e littl e church of S . Ma a in Trivi o on the le ft of o n n is s i t o e b een u b e the f u tai a d hav b ilt y B lis arius . It was reduc e d t o it s pr esen t form o n t he d esign s of DelDuca o the en in th e middl e f XVII c tury .

n e e r In the ch urch o f S . A dr a d elle Fratt a e two am els e n n i the e n as n e b in h g by B r i , c ili g w pai t d y Mar i. T e s teeple is a curiou s W ork of Borromin i .

PROPAGAND A FI D E .

Thi s r eligi ous establishmen t was fo u nded by G r e o X in 1 622 for the ose o f o n the c a g ry V , purp pr pagati g t Yo n alo n es ar e ed tholic fai h . u g m en fro m lc u tri admitt

a n d a t e h a i n ﬁn s d e t o n a n h e r e , f r v g i he th ir e duc a i r e se t h as missi o n ari e s to diffe r e n t c o u n tri e s . T e coll eg e poss esses a t yp ography furn ish ed with allso rts o f ori e n talcharac t e l n c o h tic an d o e n lo s d rs , a ibrary with ma y P ri ta w rk , an e on of e ls e s an d e io e a collcti m da , g m oth r cur siti s .

PIAZZA D I SPAGNA . So called fro m th e r esid en c e of the Spa n ish amba s

h n sador s at R o m e . In t e c e n tre is a fou tai n calle d t he Barcaccia fro m its for m an d th e stairs that lead t o the ’ é de on i on the n n l. Trin it M t , Pi cia hi l ’ The church of th e Tri n ita de Mon ti was built by

n f F n e h e Charles VIII ki g o ra c , W o pr s en t e d it t o th e

o o e of . F n e o a o o It elon r e ligi us rd r S ra c sc di P l . b gs , a t n t th e o n of th oe d e pr es e t , o c mmu ity e Sacré C ur e J sus , who have e sta b lish e d a hous e of e ducati on for y o u n g ladi e s

d t 1 . in the adj o i n i n g con ven t . This church was r estor e in 8 5

9 4 Guide ofRome

Th e a e on th e e n a i p lac , built d sig s of Van s n z o , a

ﬂ e on n emish archit ct , c tai s a large c olle cti o n of a n tiqu e m o n um e n t s . U n d e r the p ortic o ar e two triumphal bas reli e fs that

o n e t o th e of C o e e t o b el g d arch laudius , th rs allusiv a battle

n th e R o n n d n a n d t o t h o n b e twe e ma s a barbaria s , e rigi of R o m e ; a curi o us m o n um e n t in trave rti n e b e ari n g t he in

r o n r i us or o n e n t n R o n sc ipti O v C rvi s Nasica , repr e s i g a ma e e e e ee I o an d se ln e magistrat pr c d d by thr ict rs , v era a tiqu

n on i scripti s .

he e o n h n e R ss r Sal oon . T fr sc o t e roo f pai t d by o i e pr e s en ts th e arrivalo f C amillu s wh e n th e garriso n o f the Capit olw e re in tr e aty with B r e n n us fo r th e ra n so m o f t he the th e o f Polixe n es city; circular bas r eli efs , e sacriﬁc ,

n d o . a H ercul e s a J l e The c ol ossal busts of Isis n d a Mus e , f In o Adria n an d A n ton i n us Pius a r e admirably e x e cut e d . the e n e semicolo ssal e of a F n in the l ft ich is a statu au , o n e o f n th n l f . h o e right , Bacchus T e bust Vespasia , e fu ra

l o F a n d thet o o f on e le si a tar f lavia mb Pe tr ia , a c brated n

f n on n s ar e n e n o s. ger of th e tim e o A t i us Piu , i ter sti g W rk In the ﬁrst chamb e r a r e c opi es o f has r e li efs fr o m

n e e e a n d n n s . The e of the a tiqu s , arab squ s pai ti g subj ct he v ase allud e s to th e st o r y o f OEdipus an d t he Sphi n x . T

t o o th e e es o n of t he e th e del s atue f C e re s , fr m xpr si h ad , i

t h r an d t h on e e as ca cy o f e wo k e drap ery , is c sid r d a ma

n th the has st e r pi e c e of a n ci e n t sculptur e . O e right is r e li e f of Te le phus fo u n d in th e rui ns o f the imp e rialvilla

h ab ic a n a a d o e of n e e om No on t e L w y , n a t rs Ga ym d fr

m e n lum .

n on n s se e lon en s The sec o d chambe r , c tai v ra m um t In t he le the r elative t o th e hist ory of He rcul e s . midd is

n He e an d T ese s on amazo n A n ti o p e , c o mbati g rcul s h u ; t he sarcophagus ar e the lab ours of He rcule s agai n st t he

lon the th e o the b in d an d the i , hydra , wild b ar with i lof the m ons to ssis Tr o stymphalid es . The arr va a az a t y , o 9 F ur th day . 5

th e o e o f the o s h a e ﬁgur ed on c v r sarc phagu , s b e n illu h st r a ted by Wi n k e lma n . T e o pp o sit e sid e allud e s to fiv e o e o s : n th e hullo f C e e e on H o th r lab ur agai st r t , G ry , ipp

Iit us th e on o f th He t h e n Ne drag e sp e rid e s , e c taur ssus ; a n d the s e co n d part of th e c o v er to the c o u n cil of the g od s

n o th e marriag e o f The ti s . T he third chamb er i n which ar e works o f Ber n i n i con tai n s 1 6 pilast e rs an d fo ur c olum n s o f r ed or ie n tal

n th e a gra ite . The c e ili n g was pai n t e d by March e tti ; e m t m o rph osis of Daph n e in t h e vall ey o f T e mp e by Moo re ;

A o o a n d D n La b r uzzi an d t he n e e . p ll ia a by , a imals by P t rs

The o o f o o an d a n e E n e a D n gr ups Ap ll D ph , s avid drawi g t he n a n ia n h e b a e e sli g ag i st G olh a r e by Be r i n i . T s r li fs allusiv e t o the s eas on s r e pr es en t ed on fo ur vas es ar e by

Lab o ure ur .

The gall e ry is o n e of th e m o st Splen did of R om e . Its twen ty pil a st e rs o f giall o a n tic o wi th gild ed c apitals ar e o r n am en t e d with whit e marbl e camci an d blue m o s a ics

e e u e o n t h e e n of To so C o n C o x c t d d sig s mma ca by arrad ri ,

In th e n a Salimb en i a n d o th e r artists o f his tim e . iches r e

M e n an d e s a n tiqu e statu e s of a us , Dia a , Bacchu s Th ti ;

o n the ar e e e e n o e n b as e e n to walls , l v m d r r li fs alludi g myth o l ogical sub je ts th e arab esqu e pai n ti n gs ar e by

e e of G ala th a t h o o de n Marche tti , th fabl e is e W rk f A g elis . The b usts i n p orphyry o f th e e mpe ro rs t he p orphyry sarcophagu s fo u n d in th e maus ol e um o f Adria n fo ur tabl es o f t he sam e marbl e 3 se ve ral vase s an d cup s of ala ba st e r an d sp e ci es of o th e r marbl e particularly o n e in

o hix e e e n on o e e h e o p , a v ry rar gyptia st e , c mpl t t de c i on o rat s f this chamb e r .

T he n o n n s an He o se lr cabi e t c tai rmaphr dit e , v era p e

on e of T e o Me u an d ci s marbl s busts ib rius , Sapph , rc ry

Scipi o . An a n tiqu e pav em e n t in m osaic fo u n d at C ast e l

on on the o to T o an d e n l Arci e r ad iv li , a tabl i aid with

a l - azzu n n e s e s l li a d o e i s s o e . ag t , ja p r , api th r pr ec ou t s 9 6 Guide ofRome The pai n ti n gs on the ce ili n g alludi n g to the fab le of the i Hermaphrodite an d Salmacis ar e by B uon vic n i . i n the fourth chamb e r ar e sixt e en pilast e rs an d four

n h o n of th e colum n s o f bre ccia coralli a . T e c u cil g od s was

- pai n t e d by Pe ch eux ; th e chiaroscuri by Mar ch etti . The fo ur o ilpai n ti n gs by Thi e r s a fre n ch artist , r epr esen t a

d t e o f o Poldamas an d th e i chas e an h e d ath Mil , y grat tud e of s e o f the thian A ollo in the ve Theseus . A tatu py p primiti e e lan d s o s on ar e l g r k sty e , a arc phagu which scu pture d T on an d e e in llsion to th e n s e of so l rit s N r ids , a u tra f r u s i n to the isle s of the bl e s sed . Th e ﬁfth chamb e r p os sesses se veralm on um e n t s r ela

t o th e on E o S e e o f e ti ve e r ligi of gypt , vari us p ci s marbl and c olum ns in o r ien talgra n it e n e ro a n tico a statu e o f

h r in n e a ' r c l Isi s with e attribut e s bro z , C e s ; a fe ma e sta tue of a styl e a n t eri or t o the tim e of Phidias , a br on ze h ead a th e n n o f f o e e of B cchus ; e r mai i g part is l wer d alaba s t r . In the middl e of the sixth chamb e r is an a n tique group

f ee i es e e a o f o l an d old a e o thr f gur mbl m tic y uth , viri ity g , o r of s n s e an d n e e e ar e so C s pri g , umm r wi t r ; th r al a er e , a Me n en o of the le t o F ns l an rcury i v t r yr , w au a P uto A n ton i n u s Pius Bacchus an d Prose rpine a v e ry a n cien t a n d n o u iqu e gr up . O n t h e e on s o ar e n e e es of e s s c d t ry chim y pi c am thy t ,

o o o n o e n n e e s n p rphyry, r ss a tic , s e v ral pai ti gs by P t r , Gavi

H o n th e f an d e en an o amilt , statu es o Paris H l d f ur bas e e in allo n i o o n o n of o the o r li fs gi a t c a gr u d p rphyry , W rk f o Pacetti .

Guide ofRome

8 . R O CH .

T s s ed in t h e R hi church , ituat via ip e tta , was r e built in 1 657 R o an d on e en e by ssi , its fr t r c tly by Valadi r . O v e r th e altar of t h e se con d chap elis a ﬁn e pai n ti n g o f the

n . Ro an d . n on B ac i i i n h Virgi , S ch S A th y , by cc o ; t e n chap e l s of S . A n tho y an d o f th e crib ar e est e e m e d work s of l ese n d Baldassar e Ca abr a P ruzzi .

R IPE T T A .

U n d e r Cle m en t XI a la ndi n g plac e was mad e h e r e f t h n e o il oo o n an d o r e wi , , w d c r o the r articl es br ought

e o U a n d t h n e o n by Wat r fr m mbria e Sabi c u try . The st eps a r e fo rm e d of th e st o n es o f an arch o f th e Coloss e um

n in 1 thr ow n d own by a e arthquak e 703 . O n th e le v elo f t h e e is o n n o n t h e oln ar r h e str t a f u tai , c um s e ma ke d t e o gr e at e st i n u n dati on s f th e Tib e r . O pp osit e the s t e ps is t h e church of the Schiavon i

e n N ols th n n as g iv by ich a V t o e lllyria n ati o . It w r eb uilt i 1 8 n 58 by Sixtus V .

B OR GHE SE PALA C E .

T le o n e o f th os n en t of Ro e his pa ac e m t mag iﬁc m , was be gu n in 1 590 by cardi n al D e zza an d ﬁ n ished u n d e r

he o o in th e e n n e Paul V by Flami n i o Po n zi o . T p rtic s tra c

c o urt ar e supp ort e d by 9 6 gra n it e c o lum n s . Th e apartm e n ts on the gro u n d fl oo r co n tai n a cho ice

ole o n o f e o e n t o the 1 0 c l cti pictur s , p public daily at ’ W e n e th n lo f e o clo ck . e shall um e rat e pri cipa th m

1 st . The o T n e n o s n o r oo m h ly ri ity by L a dr Bas a , t n d t o os le th con ver ﬁon o f h e Mad on n a child a w ap t s , e

ln o . e . o lo M o n n G e S Paul by Gar fa , a ad a by hir a daj , S P t r 9 9 Fifth day .

h o ion of th e n s r ep en tan t by Spagn ole t t o t e ad rat ki g by

Giaco m o Ba ssa n o .

r o an d e d of . F n is 2d r o o m . O u Savi ur a h a S ra c by

ni l t h e e n o f C s A n ba Caracci marriag at Ca a birth hri t , a n d d e positi on fr o m th e cr o ss by Garofalo t he Virgi n

n d o n T n C s le en s J e sus a S . J h by itia hrist with a di cip , V u w eepi n g for t he d eath o f Ad on is b oth by Scar sellin o t h e cha se o f Dia n a on e o f the ma st e r pi ec es o f Dom e n ichi no .

. n on e n t o the Pau 3d r oom . S A th y pr achi g ﬁsh by l

e on e o e n o n e a n d n ed el V r es , P rd his family pai t by hims f ,

. n in the se u e on ese a S J oh Baptist d e rt by Pa l V r , a n lF l . F n n lC an d o S ra cis by A iba aracci , a h y ami y by

Pier in delVaga . 4 o o es B uon ar o t i the e o f th r oo m . Tw ap stl by rap ’ E o th e d Ar in o R e th e e os o n ur pa by e cavali r p , a apha l d p iti

h o n on lo th fro m t e cr ss , a oth er d ep ositi by Gar o fa ; e Cu m n o n El e aea s lof e n o t he on of . ybi D m ichi , visitati S isab th o f R en s on ub a David by Gi orgi e .

5 th oo . Th e o e son n o o e r m f ur s a s by Alba , J s ph with the e o f o n n th e n o n wif P tiphar by La fra c , Samarita w ma o o t he r odi alc e n o an d th e by Gar fal , p g hild by Gu rci , n r esurr e cti o o f Lazarus by Ag osti n o Caracci .

6 lb oo . n n R en s o o f t he r m A Susa a by ub , a p rtrait Fo n n lo R o n o n a nd r ari a by Giu i ma , a V e us Satyr by

PaulV e ro n es e .

h e th oo is o e n T 7 r m c v r e d with lo oki g gla sses.

8th room . C on tai n s fo ur m osaics on e r e pr e se n ti n g

l of t he o e e m an d l Pau V B rgh s fa ily , a Madonn a chi d by an d o Palma a p rtrait by Bron zi n o .

9 th r oo m . A prodigalchild by Titia n a h oly Family ’ n n o en o l by I c z d Imo a , a d e p ositi o n by Pi e tr o Pe rugi n o a p o rtrait o f Ce sar e B o rgia an d a no the r o f a cardi n alby Rapha elthe Mad on n a a nd child by Sc ar sellin o ; th e c e leb r ated e of s an d n lo on e o f the pictur acred pr ofa e v e , e e ma st r pi ces of Titia n . 1 00 G uide ofRome 1 t o h r oom . Th e r e turn o f th e pr odigalch ild by Gu er

n o a e e o n of an d ﬂ a e llat i ci , r surr cti Lazarus a g o n by Ga r ofalo M on n e o e n o , a ad a by Pi tr P rugi Sam son b ou n d t o t h e ol n o f th e e e e in th e n c um t mpl , J sus pres e ce o f the

ee n d t he e e al Pharis s a thr e Grac s lby Titia n .

i lt h olF o r oo m . A h y amily by Scipi Ga eta n o the n an d ld e n th e e o f n n Virgi chi by B lli i , wif Titia u d e r t h e ﬁgur e o f Judi th by Titia n Lo t a n d his daught ers by

e ellNo o o f R e Gh rard o d e tti , a p rtrait apha lby o n e of his

ls n an d n e d el pupi , a Virgi child by A dr a Sart o .

C AMPO MAR ZO .

Th e a n ci en t C ampu s Mar t in s ext en d ed fro m the C a

o n lan d n n b ills t o t he T b er an d in t he pit l Quiri a Pi cia y , day s of t he r e public was con s e crat e d t o gy m n astic e xer a n d t h e l s e or t h e e o n cises , pub ic a s mbli es f e l cti of magi

e n e th e n l n strat s , but u d r e mpire a part o y r e mai ed fo r

luse t h e t e n o e on e n s pub ic , e r s b i g ccupi d by m um t by th e th eatr es o f Po mp ey an d Marc ellu s the amphitheatr e e of Taurus the Pan th eon an d the th rm ae of Agrippa .

M D N . S. MARIA A D ALE A

an d o This church cont ain s se v e ralor n am e n t s , s m e lo n n h as e e en e . pai ti n gs . Placid o Costa zi r pr s t d S Cami l de Lellis fo u n d e r of th e r eligi o us o rd e r that assists the dyi n g ; B acicc io pai n t e d the chap elof S . Nicholas of Bari .

s . MAR IA IN AQ UIRO .

This app ellati on is said t o b e d erive d fro m the « e quir ia n gam e s which We r e c el e brat e d on t his sp o t ; it is n ow call ed Orfa n elli fr o m t he ho u se in which o rpha n s

h e on d elon n a r e r e c e iv e d a n d e ducat ed . T s ec chap c tai s h e th e pai n ti n gs by Gherard o dell e No tti . O ve r t altar is

1 0 1 Fifth day .

h e elo f n B on cor e . In t v isitati o n o f the B . Virgi by chap t h e C t he A n n u n ciati o n ar e a pictur e by Nappi , o r apu

d e e n . chi n , a n fr e sco s by Sarac i

0 6 PANT HEON.

Thi s m on um e n t th e m o st p er fe ct of the ro ma n

n le a n tiquiti e s was e re ct e d by Agrippa i n his third c o su at i n th e 7 27 y e ar o f R o m e a n d th e 27 b efo re t h e christia n

e e n th e of e e e r a . Is is vid t that circular part this diﬁc has n o c o n n e cti o n with th e p o rtic o a circumsta n c e which h as giv e n rise t o discussi o n am o n gst m o d e r n writ e rs s o m e pr e t e n di n g that the ro u n d hall is greatly a n t e ri o r t o

a n d he e e e th e o o . T Agrippa , that m r ly add d p rtic his

e an b e o n t o as hall, howe v r , c attribut e d ly Agrippa it is c o n n e ct e d with his the rm ae , we may r e as o n ably c on c lude that wishi n g t o tra n s fo rm this buildi n g i n to a t e mple Agrippa add e d th e p o rtico in 729 t o th e e diﬁc e

i e which had b e en e r e ct e d in 727 . D e o bs rv e s that as th e

ue o f e n s an d M in t h e n e o s tat V u ars plac e d i t ri r , had the attribute s o f se v e raldivi n iti es th e t e mpl e was calle d t h e Pa n th eo n but adds his b eli e f that it was s o calle d fro m th e r e s embla n c e o f th e r oo f t o th e fo rm o f the hea

The e of u ae v en s . statu J liu s C sar was plac e d in th e i n t e ri o r tho s e o f Augustus an d Agrippa in n iches u n d e r t h e

H n ff e p o rtico . avi g su e r d fro m ﬁr e u n d e r Titus a n d Traja n t he Pa n theon was r e st o red by Adria n a n d at a sub s e

n o n on n qu e t p e ri d by A t i us Piu s , S e v e r us an d C aracalla as is pro v e d by th e fo llowi n g i n scription s tilll egible o n t h e architrav e .

i mp . C AB S . s ar r rrvrrvs s e ve a vs r rvs r a ur m ax a n t arc vs

AD t AB B Nt C VS r ' ' Arrr n rc vs maxrmvs r o nr rr . MAX . r a re .

po t e r . s . rrvrr . . c os . r rr . r . p a o c o s x ix . P

. a . . a v a s m v I s ANT O INVS r . MP c rs M N r rv s e x AVG r are .

O T EST . V . C 0 8 . R O O S. P ANT H T ’ P P C EVM . V E VST AT B C O RRV I T VM C VM O M NI C VLT V R EST IT VEB V NT 1 02 G uide ofHome

Thi s la st r est orati on was mad e in the year 202 5 no furth e r m en ti on is mad e o f thi s m o n um en t tillit was v i

he e e o o n n n 4 s it e d by t mp r r C sta tius i 35 . In 39 4 it was

e le allo e n e l an clos d ik th r paga t mp es , d r e mai n ed so ll608 e n the e e o o s e e to on ti , wh mp r r Ph ca c d d it B iface IV e who d dicat ed it in h ono ur of the B . Virgi n an d the Mar

s n e the le of . M i M es tyr u d r tit S ar a ad artyr , which it

l e e e s ti lpr s rv s . In 663 the e mp e r or Con sta n tiu s II stript t he t emple of t he bro n z e tiles which c o v e r e d t he ro of an d the cupola a n d o f th e br on z e s tatu es which had e scap e d pr e c edi n g d e vastati on s an d gav e o rd ers t o tra n sp ort th e m t o C o n

tan tin o le T e e n th e n s an d ar s p . h y w re tak e by Sarace c

n e o III e e t n b ri e d t o Al e xa dria . Gr g ry r pair d his i j ury y co v e ri n g t h e r oo f with l ead . In t he civil broils of th e XIII an d XIV c e n turi es thi s m on um en t suffe r e d se v e r ely at the b e gi n n i n g of th e XV t he ea st e r n side o f t h e po rtic o had di sapp e ar e d ; rui n s had a ccumulat e d t o t h e h e ight o f th e b ases of th e c olum n s so th at it was n e c es sary t o desc en d se v e rals t ep s in ord e r t o en t e r t he church . In 1 632 Urba n VIII of t he Barb eri n i family ord er ed allth e br on z e of th e p ortico t o b e appli e d t o t he c on stru e ti on o f th e colum n s of th e c on fes s i on an d of th e chair of

5 . e an d t o th e o n n of n n on for the s e Pe t r , f u di g ca ca t l ’ n e o o n n mb e r . or r i io S . A g l which am u t ed t o e ighty in u T g , a t e s e who w s an eye wit n ess , says that h m e tal thu carri d

n e 9 4 n away w e igh ed an d th e ails alo n 37 p o u d s .

In 1 662 l n e “ e o e the e s e n s e A e xa d r V r st r d a t r id , rai sed t he two gra n ite colum n s stillsta n di n g an d cle ar e d n away th e rubbish an d huts which e cumbe r e d t he po rtico . B e nedict XIV in th e middle of last c en tury r e duc ed t he i n t erio r to its presen t stat e ; u n d e r Piu s VII the co ve ri ng o f the cupola was partly r en ewed and excavations w er e

1 0 4 Guide ofRome

3 T HE C HURCH or s . MAR IA SUPR A MINER VA .

Deriv es i ts n am e fro m th e t e mple o f Mi n e rva e re cted

o e on h e n as e by P mp y t rui s of which it w built . Th m ost in t e r e sti n g obj e cts which it co n tai n s ar e a cruciﬁx pai n te d by Gi o tt o th e t o mb s of Leo X an d C l e m e n t VII by B a n

n e an d s e of our o M ln e o . di lli , a tatu Savi ur by icha e A g l

on n In th e c v e t is a library O pen daily t o the publi c . Th n n S E o as r e a ci e t church o f . ustachi which w e st o e in the ls en on th e n s o f C n e i r e r d a t c tury e d sig a var , p s e rv es i n an a n tique ur n place d un d e r th e altar th e r e m ain s of the titular sai n t whose martyrd o m is repr esen te d i n a pai n ti n g by Fe rn a n di plac e d in the ch o ir . Ne ar this church is th e Sapi en za o r U n iv e rs ity c om m en ce d by Le o X o n th e pla n s of Micha elA n gelo ; it was

n n an d n le n e . It co ti ued by Sixtus V, ﬁ ish e d by A xa d r VII ﬁ z la i d n o o i . o lo s ivid ed i t ve c ll ege s v th se of theo gy w, m d n e lo o an d olo h e so ar e e ici , phi s phy phil gy , t pr ofe s rs

r n me n n t h n s f paid by gove e t . O e gr o u d ﬂoor ar e s ch o olo n t heﬁ e arts u n d e r the dire cti on of th e acad e my of S . Luk e in l s ar e le e on s e n n which ectur e d e iv r d culptur pai ti g ,

e e e e n o an d olo . archit ctur p rsp ctiv e , a at my myth gy The palazzo Madama th e r esid en c e o f the g o ve r n or o f R o e l C e n e de Me e ds m , was bui t by ath ri dici , aft rwar

e f F n n h o he e o f e o of qu e n o ra ce , o t e rui n s f t the rma N r which sev e ralgra n it e colum n s a r e stillpr e s e rv ed in a ’ l in th e d c zi . s of s ce lar Via e C res e n Numb e r s tatue s , bu t s an d has r eli e fs fo u n d in the rui n s w e re o n c e de p osited in th e Giu s tin ia n i palace which con tai n e d also a ﬁn e c ol

n f n n lectio o pai t i gs .

S. LUIGI .

This church was built i n 1 589 b y Hen ry III kin g of

F n n th s n s of i o o della o . It has ra ce , o e d e ig G ac m P rta 1 Fiﬂh day . 0 5

d de on ic s o e e thre e n ave s ivi d by j pilast e r , c v r d with si h a c ilian jasp e r . In t e s econ d chap el on t h e right r e fresc o e s

e n n e n n n by D o m ichi o r e pr s e ti g o n o e sid e S . C e cily di st rib utin h e r lo es t o the oo t he e n in h e r g c th p r , sam sai t last m om en ts a n d on the o th e r t he a n g els cr own i n g h e r h an d h e r husba n d . T e assumpti o n o f th e V irgi n o v e r

h F n o n n t t e high altar is by ra c esc Bassa o . I h e chapel o f

ﬁn n n n S . Matth e w is a e pai ti g by C aravaggi o r e pr e s en ti g o ur Savi our summ on i n g th e publica n t o aba n d on his o cc u d pat ion s an d t o fo ll ow him ; a n in t he sacristy a sm all n n pai n ti n g of th e Mad o a attribut e d to Co rr eggi o .

C HURCH or s . AUGU ST I N. X

lin 1 483 o n th e e n o f o This church , bui t d sig s Bacci ’ in t elli n d Es t o ute ville de B o n a n d e o e P , by cardi al ha r st r d f in t he last c en tury by Va n vit e lli is i n th e italia n styl e o lmn s n o e n e n . cb u e th e XV c e tury It is divid ed by i t thr av s , i ts cup ola Was th e first e v e r e re ct ed in R om e . Near t he e n tra n c e is a statu e o f th e Mad o n n a an d

e n i en e c hild , by Sa n s o vi n o which b i g n particular v ra

is e o e e o . tio n , d c rat d with pr ci us gifts

h u n ar e n n In t e chap e l o f S . A gusti e thr e pai ti gs by

Gu erci n o . At the high altar a r e four a n g els a cco rdi n g t o th e o elf e n n an a n e o f the n m d s o B r i i , d imag Virgi , said t o e e e n n e . u e o t o R o e th e hav b pai t d by S L k , br ught m by th o on n n o In t e r n Gre eks aft e r e fall f C sta ti pl e . h u o f v erd e a n tico of t he adj o i n i n g chap e l r e p os e s the b ody o f

on o e f . n . . S . M ica m th r o S Augusti Th e statu e o f S Tho

de n o Fe t he o o f t h e n mas Villa va by rrata gr u p Virgi , n n f child an d S . A n drew by Sa n s ovi n o a n d t h e Mad o a o

o e o C o e o e th e o n n a e L r t by aravaggi , d c rat adj i i g ch p ls , on the third pilas t e r o n th e le ft of the en tra n c e is th e c c le b r ated s of fre c o Isaiah by Rapha el. 1 0 6 Guide ofRome In the c o n v e n t a n n ex ed t o th e church is a lib ra ry t o whi ch th e public is admitt ed daily . ’ n o d o a The church of S . A t n i o e P ort ghesi w s built in 1 695 M n on t he e e n e o f the n of by arti L ghi , at xp s ki g o n n e l e an d e l s o Po rtugal . It c tai s s v era rar b a utifu sp e ci e f l ls o e an d n in s C alan dr ucci marb e , gi t tucc s pai t g by Gra

l. zian i an d Luigi Agric o a

S. APO LLINAR E .

In 772 Adria n I b uilt thi s church o n th e ruin s of a t e mple or mon um en t con s e crat ed t o Ap ollo . I t was es o e e n e t XI an d on n s s e of r t r d by B dic V, c tai a tatu

F n e e o n th e l i n n S . ra cis Xavi r by L gros ; a tar s a pai ti g e en n by Erc o l G ari .

In th R o n se n o n men des n e for the e ma mi ary y u g }, ti d e cclesia sticalprofessi o n ar e in structe d in th e b elles let tr es an d the di ffere n t bra n ches of philo s ophy an d th eo

h s l n n e the n e on of h l o gy . T e e tab ishm e t is u d r i sp cti t e - en e lh e i cardi n alVicar g ra w o g en e rally re sid s n it . h e o Alt e m s t h o os of i T palazz p , e p rtic wh ch were d n n n en ta rai se by Balthassar Peruzzi , c o tai s s o m e a ci t s t ues column s an d has r elie fs an d in th e elis ese ed , , chap pr rv th e od of o e . n e u who e in 1 68. b y p p S A ic t s , di d a martyr O n the fr on t of a hou se in the sam e str ee t Polydora n e he Caravaggi o pai t d in chiaroscuro t he fabl e of Ni ob e . T lo e osse n n t s e o f Me La n c e l tti palac p sses a ci e tatu s rcury , a d Dian a n n umer o u s bu st s.

RO . T HE C HURC H OF S . SALVA T OR IN LAU

C on tain s 34 corin thian c olum ns a pai n ting by Pe r uzzin i of the n s of o e o an d the s od c Sa ta Ca a L r t , ﬁr t pr u tion of Pietro di Cor ton a .

1 0 8 Guide ofRome b r ated fr e scoes of Rapha elr e pr esen ti n g the cumman

e s n n an d n e l. p r ia , phrygia tiburti Sybi s

n e th e o ar th e El e U d r cup la e vi sitati on of S . izab th by

C lo M t he e e n on in th e e e s e ar aratta ; pr s tati t mpl , a ma t r of B aldassa r e th pi ec e P ruzzi e birth of th e B . Virgi n by

n n an d h e r e h Mo n ar o oln s Va i , d at by ra di . Th er e e f ur c um of v e rd e a n tico n ear th e high altar o v e r which ar e som e

o F n e o n W o rks f ra c sc Alba o . ’ n h n n in 1 4 I t e church of S . Maria dellA ima b egu 00 an d aft erwards e nlarge d by Ge rma n r e sid e n t s in R o m e who es e n e o t o r elo e n s ar e tablish d ar it a h spi al f the ir f l w citiz ,

o o f n e mi n an i on n o e s un dry w rks Sarac e i , G g a Mad a v r th e altar by Julio R o ma n o ; t he t omb of Adria n VI from t he d esig n s of P e ruzzi a n d a m o n um e n t to Luk e Holst e

ho o in th e e n . Th e on es n ius w ﬂ urish ed XVI I c tury fr t gat , of oo s lof a e e ar e e d to n llo. a g d ty e rchit ctur , attribut Sa ga

PIAZZA NAVO NA .

Thi s piazza occupyi n g th e sit e o f th e circus of Ale x a n d e r S e v e rus s o m e rui n s {o f which e xist u n de r the

l ese e s o n lo th e of . n e s l church S Ag s , ti pr rv its rigi a f rm , h ouses bei n g built o n th e fo un dati on s o f t he a n ci en t seat s . U n d e r Grego ry XI II a fo u n tai n was place d at its n o e n an d n o e its so e n e xt r e mit . The le rth r , a th r at uth r , y att r c on sists of two large marble basi n s ; in th e ce n tre is the ﬁgure o f a Trit on holdi n g a d olphi n by B e r n i n i e r e ct ed un d er I n n oce n t X ; o n the b ord e rs of t h e vas e ar e similar e Fl n o eon o of n ﬁgur e s ex ecut d by ami i Vacca , L ard Sarza a , Silla an d La n di n i . B e r n i n i by o rde r o f I nn oc en t X made the desig ns of th e c e n tralfou n tai n fo rm ed of a larg e circular ba si n 73 fe e t in diam e t e r withi n which is a r ock p e rforat ed on its fo des and o oloss ls es e e ed on the ur si , f ur c a tatu , x cut 1 9 Fm} . day . 0

lof e n n e e en n t he n es Nle m od e s B r i i , r pr s ti g Ga g , i , La Plata and th e Da n ub e . d Amark e t is held in this piazza e v e ry w ed n e sday an d in augus t it is i n u n dat ed on saturdays an d su n ays .

S. AGNE S.

Thi s church r est o r e d by t he Pamphilj pri n c es in t he

e e h n XVII c e n tury is i n t he fo rm of a gr k cr o ss . T e i t e ri o r

e o n o f o n e o le lt c on tai n s eight larg c lum s c tta ll marb , gi

o e e n o n e t h e e e l e stucc v rd a tic ar high altar , s v ra statu s a n d n n o o f t e o pai ti gs by vari us artists hat p ri d .

h . n n d E e e e T e S Ag n e s i the ﬂam e s a S . ustac xp os d t o t he li on s ar e by Fe rrata ; th e gro u p of the h oly Family by Guidi ; th e t omb o f I n n oc en t X by Mai n i . B elow the is on e of the n e o of Alar di e e en church ﬁ st w rks g , r pr s t

in . g S Agn es . The Pam hil e o n th as p j palac adj i n i g e church , w built in 1 650 on th e d e sign s of R ai n aldi . O n t he e xt en s ive ceilin g o f th e gra n d galle ry Pi e tr o di C ort on a pai n t e d the adv en tur e s o f En ea s . The Braschi palac e is c elebrat e d fo r its spl e ndid marbl e stair ca se which is d e corat ed with c olum n s an d

s f n lr d n pila ters o o ri e ta e gra it e . At the c or n e r of this palac e is th e piazza Pa squi no on which is an a n ci en t mutilat e d s tatue place d on a pe destal; it was fo u n d n ear t h e shO p o f a tail o r n am ed Pa squin o who was c el ebrat ed fo r his j ok e s an d s atires a

s n o a i circum ta ce fr m which the w o rd p squi n ad e s d eriv e d . The s tatu e though gr e atly i n ju r e d by t im e exhibits f traces o e xcell e n t wo r k man ship; it fo rm ed part o f a group

e e en n Men e n r pr s ti g laus d efe di n g th e b ody o f Patr o clu s . The church of S . Pa n tal e o e r ect ed in 1 2 1 6 by Ho n or ius III as e n e o e , w pr se t d by Gr e gory XV t S . J os ph C alasanzio who fou n d ed the ord e r of th e pi ous sch ool s 1 1 0 Guide ofRome d s n e to n d n i n e ti d give gratuito u s i structio n in r ea i g , wr ti g,

e an d e n o n he od of th n l arithm tic rudim ts f lati . T b y e sai t y fo u n d e r r e po s e s u n d e r th e altar in an ur n of p orphyry . The palazz o Massimi built by Baltha ss ar P e ruz zi con tai n s vari o u s pai n ti n g s an d an a n tiqu e statue o f a Disco

ols o e m e n . b u , c pi d fro th br o n z e s tatu e by Myr o

y s . A ND REA D ELLA VALLE .

e i 1 In this church , r e ct e d n 1 59 ar e se v eralclassi c o o t o n h e W rks f he Bol g e s e school . La n fra n c o pai n t ed t e u p ola Do m e n ichi n o th e fo ur Eva n g e lis ts and se ve raltraits e d e fr om th hist o ry o f S . A n r ew ; ilC alabr es e th e pictur s to he he o n t h e allusiv e t life of the s ai n t . T ﬁrst chap el

t on right has e ight c olum n s o f v e rde a n tico h e se c d , that

t h o z has e f r o f e Str zi family tw elv o lumach ella , fou

n e t h 1 o n e t omb s a d o v r e altar a b z gr o up of t he B . Virgi n

o ur o e on o e o the with Savi ur aft r his cruciﬁxi , c pi d fr m

n o r igin alo f Micha ela g e l o . The o th e r m on um e n ts o f n o te a re t he t o mbs o f Pius II an d Pins III by Pasqui n o da Mon t e pulcia n o ; the assumption o ve r th e last altar b y Pas s n t he s es of . o n t h Ba t ist th E n elis igua i ; tatu S J h e p , e va g t ,

5 . an d . Martha S Mary Magdalen .

T HE T H EA T RE O F PO MPEY .

O ccupi e d t h e e n tir e space b e tw een the palazzo Pio and t he Via Chiavari an d Giuppon ar i th e scen a or s tag e

n e e l le th e c en b egan n e ar t he tribu n e o f S . A dr a d l a Va l , t r e of the se micircular part is n ow co v er e d by the palazzo

Pio on which ar e t he o n ly visibl e rui n s of this m on umen t . It co n tai ned Sp e ctat ors an d c o mmu n icat e d with a p ortico supp ort ed by 1 00 colum n s o ccupyi n g th e site o f

F n o en n an d th e presen t streets d e lla ari a , Sudari , Arg ti a

n h s of l e e en on t he sen e Barbi eri . O t e day pub ic r pr s tati at

1 1 2 Guide ofRome h urle d a dart in the directi on of the co un try agai ns t which

e they d e clar d war . In the piazza Tartaruga is th e b eautifulfoun tai n rai sed o n th e d e sign s of Giaco m o d ella Porta ; t he bron ze ﬁgur es a r e by Tadd eo La n di n i a dis ti n gui sh e d ﬂ or e n tin e a r t lst .

In t he C os tag uti palac e ar e s e v e ralfresco es by cel e b r at d o f h en e artists t e ﬁrst p e ri o d o f the XVII c tury . He rcules shoo ti n g an arrow agai n st Nes sus who is carryi n g

e n o o f n o o n e on away D ja ira is a w rk Alba o . Ap llo m u t d his car surrou n d ed by G e n ii an d Tim e discov eri n g Truth i s by Do m e n ichi n o . Th e e pis od e o f th e Je rusalem R i n aldo sl e epi n g on his c ar draw n by two drag on s in t h e pr e s en ce o f Armida is a highly ﬁ n ish e d c o mpositi on a n e ar e o f Gu e rci n o . The Ve n us C upid n d o th e r divi iti s ’ d r m o a n d e n n by t h e cav . A p : Justic e P ac e by La fra c on se e on th e o in and e ellle Ari at d ld lph a v ss ﬁ d with ma ri ner s b y Romane li .

’

. C T R N n F N R . s A E I A r. U A I

This church was built in th e XII an d was r estor e d in he n o a h o on t XVI c e tury by Giac m o d ell Po rta . T e c r a

on f th ti o e Virgin is by A n n ibalC aracci : t he S . Margare t a c o py o f an o ri gi n alof the sam e artist by his pupil Mas sari ; Scipi o Ga e ta n o pai n t e d o v e r th e third altar t he

f t n . The e o e o e t he assumpti on o h e B . Virgi fr sc s v r high altar a r e by Fr ed eric Zuccari an d Ra ffa elda Re ggi o .

IN AMP T ELLI. S. MAR IA C I

Was built at th e public e xpen s e in 1 658 fro m v en e h ratio n fo r a miracul o us imag e of the Mad on n a . In t e in he t er io r a r e pilast e rs a n d 22 flut e d c o ri n thia n c olum n s . T

n n s ar e on o no Ge mi n an i an d Baciccio . pai ti g by C ca , Gi rda , g Fifth day.

POR T I CO OF O C T AVIA .

T s o o in the o hi p rtic , built by Augustus , was f rm of a parall elo gra m havi n g a doubl e r ow of c olumn s 360

n n d the e s of e an d n o in t h fee t i n e xt e t , a t empl Jupit r Ju e

n e n e e e in th e C o o n e an c e tre . Th fragm e ts pr s rv d apit l c v y

o n t o n an d e xact idea o f its fo rm an d siz e . Acc rdi g Pli y

n f Pau s a n ias it was d e c o rat e d with se v e ral m on um e ts o art ,

t he C u of e e s all e e particularly with pid Praxit l , which w r

h e co n sum e d by ﬁr e u nd e r Titu s . T e p ortico was r est o r d by S e v e rus an d by C aracalla an d lat e r i n th e V c en tury . The part s tillexisti n g was form erly o n e o f the chi e f en n e an n o an d an e e o o n t eaeh tra c s : it had i te ri r xt ri r fr , s upport ed by four ﬂut e d c olum n s an d two pilast e rs of t f o n e o e e on o n two co he c ori n thia n o rd e r . O f th s fr ts ly lumn s an d a pilast e r r e mai n ; o f t he o th e r t wo column s a e n l e e n n nd two pilast e r s . Th y supp ort an e tab atur t rmi ati g in n a p edim e t .

Un e th n e d r e p ortico is th e littl e church of S . A g lo ’ in s on n t o t h e ﬁshm n . he Pe ch e ria , b e l gi g on ger s compa y T

h . n pai n tin g o v e r t e altar of S A drew is by Va sari .

In the ln e n t o t e n e a l eadi g he church o f 5 . C ath ri ar e

n o f th e e n re mai s t mpl e of Ju o R egi n a . Th e s e c on sist of t e fle o ln o f the hre ut d c um s co mpo s it e o rde r , with a part o f the en l e . n tab atur Th ey owb elon g to a private dwelli n g .

T HE T HEA TRE O F MARC ELLU S.

R se an d so n e o his n e e ai d by Augustus , am d fr m ph w, th e son of O 2 7 e a n ctavia , was 6 f e t in diam e t e r , n d c o tain d o e thirty th usa n d sp e ctat ors . The i n t eri or was form ed o f larg e traverti n e bl o ck s o n the e xt e ri o r w er e colum n s o f thr e e o rd e rs o f a r chitec

e n e f s has s e . Th e 1 e main tur , o o which o rd er di app ear d s 1 1 4 Guide ofHome o f he t o n - t o ther w co s i s t of d e mi colum n s d oric an d j on ic . The ir pro p o rti on s se rv e as a m od elt o m od e rn archit e ct s fo n o r the u n i o o f th es e rd e rs . In the middl e age s this m on um en t b ecame a fo rtr e ss o f th e Pie r le o n i . To e e s e e e the el ho th s ucc d d Sav li w built , n t h n of e th l n o o e o e d e sig s P ruzzi , e pa ac e w ccupi d by a bra n ch o f the Ors i n i family . Ab o ut the middle of th e n e ighbouri n g la n e called d ella Bufala was th e p orta C ar me n talis of t he ﬁrst walls o f

Ro an d n it th e o litor ium or e e m e , ear f rum O , v eg tabl mark e t in which we re thre e t e mple s that fac e d th e C a

e e n o f ar s le . O n e o f e pitol. S om r mai s th e m e stillvi ib th m

se C o la tin us in th e 500 of Ro e as de rai d by , e y ar m , w di cat ed to Ho e t he se on d to e in th e 559 e a n d p , c Pi ty y ar the o n 1 h le of e third t Ju o Matuta i n th e 57 . T e t emp Pi ty

se in o e o n le in is o s oo rai d c mm m rati o o f ﬁlia pi ty th f rum , t d on he t sit e of the theatr e of Marcellus .

R . s . NIC CO Lf) IN C ARC E E

in e n an d n e fr e Thi s church , built th e IX c tury si c le s e i n 1 4 n e qu en t y r tor d , s divid e d in t o thr ee ave s by a tiqu n the colum ns varyin g in mat e rials and diam e t e r . U de r f altar is an a n tiqu e ur n o f gr e en p o rphyry with carvi n gs o ’ e he n f th e ee e les men Mdus a s h e ad . T r e mai s o thr t mp Ne of t io n ed ab o ve may b e see n in this church . ar that

. ll th e o f e s . S Ga a was e triumphal gat S rviu l The church of th e C on s olazi o n e co n tai n s e stimab e

o on o f Po mar an cio and R o n l: ad c mpositi s Zuccari , cal i it j oin s the hospital for the wo u nd e d of b oth sex es . ’ lo de Fe i an d . o n I of . n the church S A y rrar , S J h h e a nd Bapti st are also n um er ous pai n ti ngs b y t e sam ,

b y o th e r arti sts . ﬁsh et was in s The forum Piscar ium or mark thi

quarte r .

Guide ofRome

T H E ARCH O F SEPTIMIUS SEVER US.

e e e s e en o m th e n s on the Was r ct d , as is fr i cripti , by ba n k e rs an d m e rcha n ts of th e fo rum Boa r i um in hon o ur d o f S e v e rus a n d his family . Its pri n cipal fron t is situat e t owards the w e st u n d e r the arch a r e r e pre s en t ed S e v e rus

d u e n th e e r olo f a n J lia his wif , b e ari g caduc us o a symb Io n cor d an d p e rfo rmi n g a sacriﬁc e with C aracalla an d

o e a e ff e e hi - o f Ge ta , wh s e ﬁgur w s ac d aft r s d e ath but

a e ar o e which trac es r e visibl e . Un d r th es e has r eli efs e th rs of sacr ed ut e n sils sacriﬁc e s prison e rs acco mpa n i e d by

R o n o e a n d m e n n g o e n lln t o on e of ma s ldi rs drivi o x , a udi g th e e e t rad s that rais d this m on um e n t .

h e T e church of S . Gi o rgi o in Ve lab ro was built in th

i o e a e e IV c e n tury . I t s pr v d by n in scripti on pr eserv e d th r

t h e o e a n d t h e o e in that p rtico was add d , church r est r d t n in e e n ee n he XIII ce tury . It is divid e d t o thr av es by sixt colum n s fo ur of which ar e o f vi o l e t c ol o ure d marbl e . Th e cl oaca maxima was comm e n c e d by Tar quin ius

Pr i cus a n d n n a r uin ius e s , fi ish ed by his so T q Sup rbus , who drai n e d i n to this cha n n elthe wat e rs o f the Ve lab r um . The vault is form ed o f thr e e laye r s of larg e bl o cks o f t ufo un it e d a t c e rtai n dista n ce s by bl o ck s of trav e rti n e s on e o h ele e t , with ut m o rtar o r c e m e n t . T e arch is tw v f e t in e an d lin e n th e as h ight twe ve br adth , thus justifyi g se on o f ln h o e o e s l rti P i y t at a car , l ad d with hay , c uld a i y n th e h pa ss withi n the ap e rtur e . Its l e gth fro m fo rum t o t e 25 th t h e e i e n h Tib e r is 00 fe e t , its mo n at riv r s b e tw e t e d h d Palati n e bridg e an t e t e mpl e of Ve sta . It is r e mark e by Dio n isius Strab o an d o the r autho rs that th e cl oacae t he aqu educts an d th e high roads w e re al on e suffici e n t t o place the R o ma n s i n th e first ra n k am o n gst n ati o n s . F ollowi n g th e d e cli vity o f th e Palati n e we arriv e at f n es o s n t he an ci en t church o S . A astasia r t red by u dry 1 1 Sixth day . 7

es n e t he n en . e p op , ar which was a ci t ara maxima A v ry In the n e a an ci en t christia n altar is pr e s e rv e d h e r e . i t ri o r r e

le 2 r e d n e an d 2 n o o n . 8 vi o t , gra it , africa c lum s

In t he M n e s e e e en t he ln e urcia vall y , ituat d b tw Pa ati an d Aven ti n e an d at th e foo t of the palac e of th e C a sars was

T HE C IRC U S MAXIMU S.

This sp o t was select ed by R o mulu s t o c el eb rat e gam es in h on o ur o f Neptu n e (sur n am e d C on s us) they w e r e h en c e call e d C on sualia; at th ese Was e ffe ct ed the rap e

o o e o e h of th e Sabi n e wom en . T c mm m rat this e v en t t e s ub t erra n e a n altar o f Con su s was e re ct ed in t he circus; it was u n c ov e r e d fo r th e sacriﬁce b e for e t h e gam e s c om

a m en ced an d the n c o v er e d agai n with e ar th . T r quin ius

Pr i s t he o its s e e scu built circus , which fr m ize , r c eiv d

. h e n e or f t h e app ellati on of maximu s T e circ s s , gam es o e e n o the circu s w er e the fav o r it e amus m t f t h e Roma n s . f o e s e o They c on sist ed pri n cipally o chari t rac , ach chari t e s an d of o e havin g t wo o r fou r h ors vari us athl tic gam es . Di on ysius o f Halicar n assu s who v isit e d this circu s aft e r

ae s s 3 }; its en larg e m en t u n d e r Julius C sar ay , that it was if

t a i l l le in len o letb r e o r s di or n e ar y ha f a mi gth , f ur p ,

40 in e an d o l on n 0 fee t br adth , that it c u d c tai a n e the ﬁr e o e p e rson s . It w s greatly i jur d by which ccurr d

n e N o e n e o e e s n an d b v u d r e r , but b i g r st r d by V pasia

Tr a an it o ol e on s . I t e en j , c uld h d p rs was furth r lar g ed u n d e r C on sta n ti n e an d acc ordi n g t o the n otic e of th e e mpir e it th en a ffo rd ed r oo m for Th e circus was o f an o blon g fo rm ; o n e of th e en ds a se h h e w s micircular t e o the r a gen tl e curv e . At t e s mi circular en d was t he gra n d en tr an c e ; at th e curv e wer e

t he c ar c er es or s n le . In t h th e n tarti g p ac e middl e was spi a ,

lon n o o o e e ar se e c o a g arr w platf rm c v r d with , statu s , lumn s and two obeli sk s ; at th e extr e m ities wer e th e me t re 1 1 8 Guide ofRome r orrn d which it was n ece ssary t hat the cars should pa ss s e n e o e t e e n d t h ev tim e s b f r h y w er e title to e prize . A le ln e o f o os le o e e o e an d trip i p rtic p ac d v r ach th r , n um e ro u s r ows o f s eats a s i n th e t h eatr e s an d amphi s e e r t e e he th eatre w re d sti n e d fo h Sp ctat o rs . At t foot of in a l e o the p odium , appro priat e d lth e s places f public a e me n t o the n ies of the e i e as n l mus t dig itar mp r , w a ca a , th n n e in d dded called e e uripu s, i feet b readth an d epth , a

by Julius Caesar . lo o n lld in ed fo r the iot es A th ugh rigi a y e st char rac ,

t s ln l s oo n th n n ye Wr e t i g pugi istic gam e , f t raci g , e hu ti g a o f wild b ea sts , n d o the r ma n ly e x e rcis e s wer e practi se d

n in the circu s . It Was on this Sp o t acc o rdi g t o Aulus Gel lius tha t A n dr ocl e s con d e m n ed t o ﬁght in t he gam es Was re cog n iz ed by th e li on fro m whose foot h e had ex tract ed a thor n in Africa th e a n imallick ed his ha n d s and

Spar ed his life . B e sid e s t he gre at circus th e r e exi st ed sev e ralo th ers

t he F n n t of Flo th e ls n in R om e lami ia hat ra , Sa lu tia

of ll n Helo ls le n e Se thos e Ca igu a Adria , i gaba u , A xa d r d i s t s s is e v eru s an R o mulus son of Maxent u , hi la t situat d on t he Appia n Way . B eyond a r ivulet called the Mar r an a ar e the rui n s o f the

T IIERMJE O F CARA CALLA.

The e mp ero r A n t on i n us Caracalla co mm en ced th ese t he rm ae in 2 1 2 an d ﬁ n ish ed th em in the 2 1 7 year o f the

o o e e r e Helo christia n er a. P rtic s w r afterwa ds add d by i e m n en e g ab alus an d Alexa n d e r S e v e ru s . Th ir ag iﬁc c has a t ian e i o an d b een e xtolled by Sp r , S xtus V ct r by Olym piodor us who says that th ey con tain ed 1 600 bathin g h e o o f th de on of thiS S len did e e places . T e p ri d e structi Lp diﬁc was duri n g the war s b etween the G ot hs and the Gr eeks in the VI c e n tury .

1 20 Guide ofRome

a le s o the b l n t m rb upp rt a dachi of he altar , n ear which

' a In r e t wo amb on es . the t ribu n e is t he r esb ter ialchair p / y e us e d by S . Gr g o ry I .

The church of S . Sixtu s is Situat e d in the

VALLEY OF EGERIA .

This valley c eleb rat e d acco rdi n g t o a n cien t tradition ot e e N a ons le t h o as th e Sp wh r um c u t d e g ddess Egeria is ’ e een th e C aeln o n t an d lllle Mon e d o o b tw ia m u a hi ca d t r , ye t is has b e en place d by mod er n writ e rs at a di s tan c e of F o o thre e mile s fro m the city . r m a c mparis on of pa ssag es o f a n ci en t auth o rs an d particularly of Juvenalwhe r e h e d escrib e s th e j o ur n ey o f Umb r icius it is e vid en t that this valley was n ear t he p o rta C ap en a which was s ituat ed in

this dir e ct i o n .

On lto the o e loo n the a hil right , v r ki g church of

. es eo as the e e of M e os and on S C ar w t mpl ars xtra m ur , the a n ci en t via Appia in t he vig n a Sass i is

O T HE T OMB F T HE SC IPIO S.

in 1 90 an d o ose of t o s o es Di sco v e re d 7 , c mp d w t ri ; the ﬁrst stille xisti n g is a larg e subt erra n ea n chamb e r dug o ut of th e tuffo; o f the s e con d in which w e r e se mi - colum n s of th e j on ic o rd e r an d n ich es o ccupi e d by the s tatu es of t he o a n o f th e oe En n n Scipi s d by that p t ius , othi n g r e

n h lo n o e s o n in o a e s. T e o r mai f l wi g bj ct , f u d this t mb , n ow in t he Vatica n mu se um ; th e sar c 0 phagus o f Lucius o on e o o f th e n es and Lu an ian s Scipi Barbatus , c qu r r Sam it c , b efor e th e ﬁrst pu n ic war ; a bust cr own e d with laurel supposed t o b e that of th e p oe t En n ius but pr o bably of on e o f th e Scipios a n o th e r in whit e marble of an unk n own

e son e and e e n s on s . C o es o f ese o p r ag , s v ral i cripti pi th ccupy t h le o h n ln on e o in e es n e p ac s f t e o rigi a s i this m um n t , s t r ti g 1 Six th da y. 2 1

its n an d fo r i ts in b een th e o b of from a tiquity , hav g t m t he family t o wh o m Ro m e owe d the c on qu est of C arthag e . In the s am e vi n eyard is th e c olumbarium o f Hyla s a n d

n of n e Vitali n a , d e sti n e d lik e o th e r m on um e ts this atur , t o e t h o f t he e an d e n e e e r ece iv e ash es slav s , ma cipat d fr d m en wh o w e re g e n erally buri e d on th e la n d s o r n ear th e t o mbs of th eir mast e rs : s e v e ral smalln iches were

le h th o llae on n e t he ﬁl d wit e vas e s call e d , which c tai d

n a n h In o n o f b o es d ash e s coll ect ed at t e fu n e ralpil e . fr t

e n e e n n l t he n e th s e ich s w re i scripti o s (titu i) with am s ,

n an d o e o e ra k pr f ssi n o f t he d e c e as ed . Th s e c olumbaria were rais e d o n the sid es o f th e high r oads an d parti en

ar n h n a n lly o t e Lati d Appia n Ways . The n o t a n d o f lin ﬁrst i scripti n is hat of Hyla s Vita a , th e pro pri e tors ; t he o th e rs o f p e rs on s attache d t o t he c ourt o f Augu stus an d Tib e riu s . O n th e Appia n way is th e arch of Dru su s raised by The n the se n at e t o th e fathe r o f t he e mp e ror Claudius. ca al and arcad e s stillvisibl e o n th e upp e r part an d at t he side o f this m on um en t ar e part of th e aqu educt u se d by C a r acalla o s r e ae t supply water fo his th rm .

B N. P ORT A APPIA OR 8 . SE A ST IA

This gat e was substitut ed in plac e o f t h e p orta C a p en a when t he city was e nlarg e d ; it d e riv e d its app ellati on o t he n l e o fr m Appia way , which was pav ed with arg blck s of st on e by t he c en so r Appiu s Claudiu s in th e 442 y ear o f Ro e n d h o n n of m , a was t e m st mag iﬁce t all thos e open e d

' th e R o n a r e air ed b s s e n h by ma s . It w s p y Augu tu wh e drai n e d t he Pon ti n e marshes by Ve spasia n Do mitia n

Ne a n d T n n e t h n rva by raja . It u it d with e Lati way at t h e C asilin e n h n e o bridg e ear Capua . T e pr e s e t n am f the e is en m t gat tak fro h e ba silic of S . Sebastia n two miles

di sta n t . Guide ofHome

A e of a le o th e e is t he o quart r mi fr m gat Alm , a s tr eam s uppli e d by vari ou s spri n gs ﬁve an d six mil e s dis ta n t fr o m t he city ; acc o rdi n g t o O vid t he pri e sts o f ' Cyb ele a n n ually wash e d in t his str e am the s t at ue of that g odd e ss an d th e ut en sils us e d in her worship . Opp osit e the little church of D o mi n e quo vadi s n ar e t he rui n s of th e t o mb o f Priscilla the wife of Aba s n d e o n ar e e e l ca n thu s , m e ti on e d by Statius an furth r s v ra tombs an d an e xt en siv e columbarium supp os ed t o b e t hat of th e slav es of A ugu stus . In t he C a sali vi n eyard se v erali n script i on s w e re foun d in 1 826 e o n e of t h e o t r lativ e t o the V o lusia family , m s

n d f n n R e an d n e s S o disti guish e o a ci e t o m , ar thi p t a

e o s o f ﬁn o o on an d e r e~ marbl sarc phagu , e c mp siti w ll p

e th e a e n s e rv d , h s r e li ef o f which r epr e sen ts a battl be twee t h e la n d R o n Gau s ma s . In a n o th e r vi n eyard t o th e left o f a la n e div e rgi n g

o t h e e as fr m e mai n r o ad , a larg se pulchral chamb r w dis

2 a o e t o th e on n o co v e re d in 1 7 6 . It w s appr priat d b dsm e f

i v an d o n n e n e o e an d in e L ia Augusta , c tai d um r us vas s c rary e e n on s allof ar e n owin the vas s with th ir i scripti , which gallery of the Capit ol.

ST N. T HE C H UR CH O F S. SEBA IA

n e th Built o v e r th e c e m et e ry o f S . C alixtus is o of e se v en basilics of R o m e ; it was r e built in 1 6 1 1 by cardi n al he Scipi o Bo rgh e se o n th e d e sig n s o f Flami n i o Po n zi o . T high altar is ad o r n e d With fo ur ﬁn e colum n s o f v e rd e e m

n d o e t h e oo ar e e o f n n e b tico , a v r d rs ﬁgur s sai ts pai t d y

h e of . e n o e A n t on io C aracci . T e Statu S S bastia is by Gi rg tti fr o m a m odelof Be r n i n i . A stair ca se le ads fr om th e church t o the c at acon rb s e e dug in t he form of corrid ors o r galle ri e s . Thes xcava ti o n s fro m which sa n d o r ar e n a n ow call e d p o zzola na on e e o e l was tak e n for purposes of constructi , w r f rm r y

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T HE C IRCU S.

K n ow n duri n g c en turi es u n d e r th e n am e of Caracalla was pro v e d by th e e xcavati on s mad e by the duk e Tor lon ia in 1 25 t o b e f R o t on o f Max nt i 8 that o mulus , he s e us . Thr ee i n scripti on s b ear the n am e of Maxen tius ; th e on e b es t pr e s e rv ed place d u n d e r t h e en tra n c e door is as follows:

n r o o vn . . v a m o N M v .

c os . o ad . rr . F I L I O

' n . N. MAX ENTXI m v rcr .

r r r ' vi i c i . pe p. ave . n e or r

T . n rvr MAX IMI ANI s s m

oars a c b is Aug usti Thus illustrati n g th e a n on ym o us writ e r a con t emporary of Maxen tius publishe d by Eccar d who says that this e mp e ro r e re cted a circus in cat ecumb is o r n e ar th e

cataco mbs . The circu s b e i n g w ell pre serv e d is on e of th e mos t

e n n n Ro . I ts ln t is 1 it i n t er sti g m o um e ts n e ar m e e g h 700 , s br eadth 260 fee t ; the carcares circus an d spin a ar e dis

1 e t in c tly v isible . The car ce r es ar e divid ed i n to 3 arch s ; t h e circu s in th e distributi on of th e Se at s resemble d oth e r

o h n a 0 on 22 ide e diﬁces o f this s rt ; t e spi a w s 30 feet. lg , w 2 t o 5 an d fr o m high .

C E C ILIA ME T ELLA .

Thi s se pulchralm on um en t 1 00 fee t in diam e t er is lo s of e n e its o f a circular form built of larg e b ck trav rti ;

f 5 ee . In its walls a r e of th e e xtra ordi n ary thick n ess o 3 f t

n e l the le s o in t e ri o r was fou n d , u d r Pau III , marb arc

h o of the F n e se le . phagus n ow placed in t e c urt ar pa ac i th ollo in O n the top of the m on um en t s e f w g i n scription :

1 2 6 Guide ofRome

lfo r n d ha ls bathi g , an a smallamphithe atr e may b e trac e d

on th n am g e rui s . Ne ar th e circus o f R o mulus is the t e mpl e o f Bacchus asce rtai n e d by a gr e ek i n scription o n a n ara o f Bacchus

en on e Ho i m ti d by ls te n us . The p o rtico is supp ort ed by fo ur white ﬂut e d c ori n

n o n e n m e thia c lum s , tak fr o m s o e ediﬁc of the tim e o f t he A n t on i n es ; on th e righ t ha n d is s e e n t he altar of Bacchus t wi h its gr e ek i n scriptio n and t he di onysiac s e rp e n t . In the XI c e n tury it b e cam e a church an d Was aft e rwards e e d dicat d t o 5 . Urba n .

In t h le of t h C affa r ella is the N ae e va l y e ymph um ,

e o on e e the o n n o f E e n o n o hith rt c sid r d as f u tai g ria , k w fr m Juv en alan d Symmachus to hav e been n ear t he Cap e n a

gat e . Th ese n y rn ph ae a r e fr e qu en tly se e n in th e villas o f th e an ci en ts who de dicat e d the m to riv ers fo u n tai n s and

Naiads . This e diﬁce o f re ticular brick work had se v eraln ich es o he e en t o ee lo e n ccupi ed by statues . T pav m t w f t w r tha t he prese n t le velwas c o v e r e d with s e rp en ti n e t he wall s t with verd e a n tico an d the n iches with whit e marb le . A t he furth est e n d of t he gro tt o is a r e cumb en t s tatue pr o h lof t h e ln of t he bably that o f th e Alm o . T e sty e bui di g is

n tim e of Ve spasia . In t he sam e valle y half a mile from this Nymphaeum in the dir e cti on of the city is the

T EMPLE OR FANUM RED ICULI .

Wh en A n n ibalrais ed th e si e ge of Ro m e a ﬁ e ld an d o n to th n of R e n it Fa n um w e r e c s e crat e d e G e ius tur , but s

ta e ln e e n o n the p o sitio n is s t d by P i y t o hav b e Appia n way two mil e s fro m t he C ap en a gat e ; this little t e mpl e Was p ro bably de drcat e d t o the riv e r Almo which ﬂ ows at 1 Sixth day . 2 7

o n on ese es o f th e its bas e . The brick c structi r mbl that th o aqu e ducts n ear the p o rta Maggi o r e o f e tim e f Ne ro . Its pilast e rs h a v e small ap e r t ures in t h e c en tr e a n d two o ctag on al half c olum n s ar e plac ed on th e sid e that

h A n a n d n s . fac es a cross r o ad c on n e cti n g t e ppia Lati way R e tur n i n g t o the Appia n way a n d foll owi n g th e n fo r t h n o f r o ad n ear th e church o f S . S eba stia e dista ce t wo mil es is the

BA SILI C O F S. PAUL .

This church was built by C onsta n ti ne in a farm

lon n to n R o n mat r o n o ve r the e e e b e gi g Luci a , a ma , c m t ry

e . It as e lan d en le in which S . Paul was buri d w r bui t arg d in 386 by Valen ti n ia n II an d Theod osiu s co mple t ed by

n th n Hon oriu s an d r est o re d by se ve ralp o p es . O e ight of the 1 5 j uly 1 823 t he great e r part o f thi s basilic an d in

t h o o th e e n ln e an d the oo s e e particular e r f , c tra av d r W r

ﬁr e in e e l h con s um e d by e . It is alr ady gr at part r bui t Wit e on o som e slight d viati s fro m it s rigi n al structur e . The a n ci en t fron t Which still r e mai n s is ad or n ed wi th

n Th i n e o 24 e t mosaic o f t he XII I c e tury . e t ri r was 0 fe

n n h n e 1 an d it lon g (with o ut recko i g t e tribu ) 38 Wid e , s 1 2 ﬁve n av e s w e r e s e parat e d by 3 co lum n s 36 fe e t high , an d 1 1 in circumfe r e n c e tak e n in part from the Emilia n

h e o n o n t h n of the basilic . T c lum s supp rti g e gra d arch tribu n e we r e 22 fe e t high a n d 5 i n diam e t e r ; t he altars were de corat e d with 30 p o rphyry c olum ns which w e r e als o i n jure d by th e ﬂam es . The a n ci en t m osaics have b een pr eserv ed ; that o v er the gr eat arch o f t h e pri n cipaln av e mad e u n d e r 8 . Leo in 440 r epr e s e n ts o ur Savi o ur with th e 24 a n ci en t s of t h e o e an d t h he ap calyps e ap ostl e s P e t e r an d Paul. O n t upp e r part o f t h e gre at n av e was the s e ri e s o f po rtraits of

the o e o . e e t o s h p p s fr m S P t r Piu VII t e C CLIII p on ti ff. 1 2 8 Guide ofRome

Un de the as e n r high altar which w gr atly i jure d , a re o f th e o e o f . Fe e an d parts b di s SS t r Paul . In t he tr i

n e o o f th e e n bu is a m saic XI II c tury . Adj o i n i n g th e basilic is a m on ast e ry ; its cl oi st e r is surr o u n d ed with arcad e s built in 1 220 withi n which ar e s e ln e n n e v ra a ci t i scripti ons .

8 . PAUL AT T HE T HREE FO UNT AINS.

Thr ee church e s we re rais e d by th e a n ci e n t chri stia n s o t on t his Sp call e d ad aquas Salvias . T ha t e re ct e d whe r e 1 S . Paulsu ffe re d martyrd o m was r est or e d in 590 by car di n alAldo b r a n din i o n t h e d esig n s o f Giaco m o d e lla Porta It con tai n s the thr e e spri n gs of wat e r which a r e said t o ’ hav e appe ar e d at the thre e b ou n ds of the ap o stle s head .

n n In th e church d e dicat e d t o SS . Vi ce n t an d A asta siu s in 624 ar e fre scoe s of t he X1 1 apostles from the d esign s of Rapha el. Th e third church d edicat e d to th e Mad on n a u n d er oe an d es o d t he d en o mi n ati on of S . Maria Scala C li r t re by n l i cardi n alAle xan d e r Farn ese o n the desig ns of Vig o a s of an octag o n alform t e rmi n ated by a cup ola . It con tain s a m osaic by Zucca a ﬂor en tine the ﬁrst good m odern k h n W or of t e ki d .

P ORT A S. PAOL O . When t he Walls o f th e city w e re en large d th e presen t gat e was substituted t o th os e calle d the Trige mi n a Mi n an d La e r n alis as r e lt ls ucia , Navalis v ; it w bui by Be i arius

1 8 feet abov e th e m o re an ci en t le v el.

P Y RAMID O F C AIU S C EST IUS.

Thi s sepulchralm on um en t i n the form ofa quadr an gular pyramid was built in 330 days as is a sc ertai n ed

1 9 Six th day . 2

e r on e in by t he i n scripti on , an d is c o v e r d with ma bl e fo o t

1 25 e e on 7 a n d th e t hick n ess . I ts h e ight is fe t , ach fr t is 5 mass o f the buildi n g 25 fee t thick ; th e s e pulchral chamb e r

i s 2 e o n 1 2 a n d 1 5 . C C est ius as 0 f e t l g , Wid e high aius w on e o f th e s e v e n Epul o n e s who pr e par ed the e pula o r b an qu e ls fo r t h e g o ds ; t his c e r e m on y call e d le ctist er n iu m was practis ed in t he t e mpl es i n cas e of sig n al vict ori es o r o f public calamiti e s . This pyramid was r e st or e d by Al e xa n d e r VII when t h oln the e e n n e th on e c um s plac ed at w st r a gl s , e br ze foo t n owin th e C o a n d t o e e e e o e e apit l w p d stals w r disc v r d ,

n th n o a d beari g e sam e i scripti n , n showi n g t hat C estius on o o f was a c temp rary Agrippa .

Near thi s pyramid is the pro testa n t b uryi n g grou nd .

T EST AC C IO .

The o rigi n of t his hillwhich is n o t men tion ed by a n y of t he a n cie n t autho rs may b e attribut e d t o frag en o f e o f I e t m ts vas t erra c o tta call ed le sta in lati n . t s h igh

1 63 an d c e e n e 4 3 e is its ircumf r c 50 f e t . No t b illi far fr om this s an arch call e d that of S . La zar us fr om the adj o i n i n g h e rmitag e ; it pr o bably form e d

of the n part public gra ari e s plac e d in this quart e r . In th e n eighb o u r i n g vig n a C e sar in i ar e rui n s of the a n ci en t

NAVALIA.

So call e d from the sp o t wh er e vessels t ouche d and m erchan dis e was la n d e d ; o the r rui n s in small tuffo po In n s O f th e VII cen tury of Rom e pro bably b e lo n g e d t o the en lIn ars a . th e middl e ag e s this sid e o f the rive r as ll W ca ed th e Ripa Graeca an d that o pp osit e R ipa R omaca . Guide ofRome

O NS SUB LI I P C US.

T t h his bridg e e ﬁrst throw n o ve r the Tib e r u n d e r An c us Mar t in s }, is c e l e brat e d for t he acti on o f Ho ratius

C o le who o n e o o o n the f c s al withst d it army o Pors en n a . I t was aft erwards call e d t he fEmilian when rebuilt in

s o n e fEmilius e e n o n e t by L pidus , c s r u d r Augustus .

H n e n e o e v avi g b e r st r d by A n t on i n us Piu s i t was after Wards carri e d away in t he year 7 80 in an e xtra ordin ary in n n t e u dati o o f h riv e r . The a n ci en t sali n e s or salt Wareho us e s and the p orta f uli s e Trigemin a o T lu wer e n ar this bridg e .

T HE AVE NT I NE .

Thi s hillis in the fo rm o f a p en tag on fe e t in circumfer en c e or n early 1 8 stadia t he m easur e m e n t assig d on of H l n an d 42 e n e t o it by Di ysius a icar assus , is m tres h ab o v e th e le v elo f t e sea . S e ve ral e tym ologi es of its n am e a r e giv e n in a n ci e n t autho rs ; a b a d oe n t a fro m t he arrival of t he p eople o f Latium at th e t e mpl e o f Dia n a Ave n s in th e e o o f R e an n en e n a riv e r t rrit ry i ti a ci t p lasgia city ,

d v n i n us n of l ho e on the s ot . a n A e t , ki g A ba , w was buri d p It ﬁrst fo rm ed a part of R om e u n d er An c us Mar t ins who d e sti n ed it fo r the re sid en ce o f th e Lati n trib es wh om h e had s ubjugat e d an d pri n cipally of the i n habita n ts of

lln e an d P n n n Politor ium Te e ica a , but it is k ow fro m Tacitus that it was n ot en closed in the Pomaer ium b efor e t he r e ig n o f C laudius . The pri n cipal e diﬁces rai sed o n th e Av en ti n e we r e t he t emples of Dia n a of Jun o R egi n a t he Bon a D ea an d

Mn e the ar milus tr ium t he o f e the i rva , atrium Lib rty , palace s of Sura an d o f Traja n t he th e rm ae o f Vari as and

e e s a l l . D ecius . Th es diﬁce hav e ln ear y di sapp eare d

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S. PRI SCA .

T s his church it is aid , was built o v e r the h ou se of

. who o n t o S Prisca acc rdi g traditi o n was c o n ve rt e d t o t he and faith baptize d with ma n y o th ers o n this Sp o t by

. e e l. e on n 24 n e o n S P t r hims f It c tai s a tiqu c lum s , fr escoes F b on teb uon i a n d n n Passi n an i y a pai ti g by g . In the n vi eyard O pp o sit e we r e th e t emples of Dia n a e e ed e s T lls an d of Mn e r ct by S rviu u iu i rva Aven tin en sis .

S . M R I N C O S A IA MED IN.

ln th n e Is b ui t o e rui s o f th e t mple of C e res an d Pr ose r of th e e l pi ne . A part c la with its large blocks of trave rtin e n of he r a n d 7 c olum s t pe ystile 7 fee t in circumfe ren ce o e o a n d o t e os e a r e le . f h c mp it rd r , still visib Acc o rdi n g to Tacitu s this e diﬁce was c on secrat e d a se con d tim e by e s Tib riu . e l Adria n I r bui t this church in 7 82 which is also calle d th e B e cca d ella Ve rita fro m a larg e pi e ce of r ou n d

in t he o of k n it e marble , f rm a mas havi g s y es an d m o uth

n e n e t h o Wid e o pe plac d u d r e p rtico . The i n t e ri o r of this church is divid ed i n t o t hree n aves by 1 2 a n tiqu e c o lum n s an d t he pave m en t is form ed of

n e n os o lxan d n m It o n n s t h e a ci t m aic call ed pus A e r i u . c tai lso two on es e on tiﬁcale an e of a amb a marbl p s at , imag

n o o e e a n d n h a ar the B . Virgi br ught fr m Gr e c u de r t e lt an urn o f e gyptia n gra n it e ﬁll e d with r e lics .

T M O E PLE F VE ST A .

It has already been o bserved that the t e mple o f Ve sta N in the l m as e e e rect e d by uma which Pal adiu w pr serv d , a h o t h h W s situate d in t e f rum at he foo t of t e Palatine . T e Sixth day . 1 33

se e e in e a pr esen t t empl e lik e th o that xist d ach curia , p p ears t o hav e b een r e st o r ed in t h e s e con d c en tury of our e r a 1 9 colum n s o f whit e marbl e formi n g a circumfe r en ce of 1 7 o fee t c on stitut e t h e e xt e ri o r p o rtico ; th e ir h e ight i n cludi n g bas e a n d capitalis 36 fee t their diamet er 3 that of th e c e lla 36 .

Th e t empl e of Fortun a Virili s n ow call e d S . Maria Egiziaca was built by S e rvius Tullius the sixth ki n g of 2 Rom e an d was cha n g e d i n t o a church in 9 7 . Its fo rm is that o f an o bl on g squar e with fo ur fron t an d e n n th n ic o e en e s v e sid e co lum s of e j o rd r , tw ty ight e e e f t high . They supp o rt an e n tablatur e o r n am en t d With

es oon e n n e l l e . f t s , g ii , ca d abra an d bu ls h ads O pp o sit e this is the

H OU SE OF NI C HO LA S D E R IENZO .

Pr esen tin g a caprici ous ass e mblage o f a n tiqu e frag

en o f ffe e n e o e en o f o n m ts di r t p ri ds , a sp cim r ma archi

e e of th e e o n e t o N o th e t ctur XI c en tury . It b l g d ich las

son o f C r e sc n tius o e n o e , wh s family was th e p we rful at Ro m e . O ve r the a n ci en t do o r which is n ow cl o se d is an

n on th n i n n e i scripti writt en in e XII c e tury lati rhym , in

di c ca t in g that Nichola s th e s o n o f C r esc e n tius an d o f

T eo o » h d ra gav e this h o us e to his s on David . I t is said that i 1 4 n 3 7 it fell i n to th e p o sse s s i on of th e c el ebrat ed C ola R en th di i zo , e R oma n tribun e from whom it d eriv e s its

esen ell n pr t app ati o .

PALA T I NE BR I D GE .

Duri n g t he ﬁrst six c e n turi e s of h e r e xist e n ce Ro m e

on t o es th e b li n a n d h n h had ly w bridg , Su ic a t e Palati e ; t e latt e r so call ed fro m th e n e ighb o uri n g Palati n e hillwas ﬁ n ish ed u n d e r th e c en sor s Scipio Africa nus and Lucius

Mumm ias . 1 34 Guide ofHome

It was r e st or e d by Gr eg ory IX in the thirt een th and

in th e s e e n n n e i by Julius III ixt th c e tury , havi g suffer d n an n n on n e e o I as e in 1 75 i u dati u d r Gr g ry XII it w r built 5 , but part of it was carri ed away by th e Wat er s i n 1 598; e e it has n ot si n ce b e n r e pair d . At the fo ot o f this bridg e t he vi ew e mbrac e s the

Aven ti n e with th e grott o of C acu s , th e r e mai n s of the Sublicia n bridg e t he Prata Murcia the situati on of the camp of Po rs en n a th e m outh of the cloaca the isla n d o f Esc ulapius the Fab r ieian bridge that of Gratian an d the Ja n iculum the s ite o f ma n y of the pri n cipalfacts of Roma n history fro m the kin gs t o th e decli n e of the w est e r n e mpir e .

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8 . BART OL OME O.

The n t e o 1 5 i ri r divid ed i n t o thr ee n av es , by 24 co lumn s o f gra n it e , said t o hav e b el o n g ed t o t he a n ci e n t

. h t e mpl e T e isla n d c on tai n ed al so the t e mple o f Faun an d L n n ycao ia Jupit e r .

ON P T E GRAZI ANO .

T e n o e le w l . o o o was b lt his bridg , ca l d S Bart m , ui m as is s ne o th e n j a ce rtai d fr m i scripti on s on th e parapet s in ﬁ , A th e e 467 of the e e n r a h G y ar pr s t e , by t e emp er o rs Valen n i n an d ti a n Vale s Gratia n .

T HE C . HURCH OF S C EC ILIA .

O ccupyi n g the site of the h ou se of that sai n t was c onsecrat e d in 250 by Urba n I r e sto re d i n 821 by Pas a d n n qualI , n g ive by Cle m e t VIII t o the B en e dicti ne n n s ho n n e n u w a xe d t o it an e xt e siv e con v e n t . The large marble va se in th e c o urt is on e o f th o se call e d can thari which w e re place d in th e co urts of t he chri stia n church es an d e o r e o n o th s rv e d f th abluti f e faithful. The church has thr e e n av e s ; o v e r the high altar is a

ld n o o n oln nd r ba aqui , supp rt ed by f ur aquitai e c um s , u e

i n a it s a b eautiful statu e o f S . C e cily by Mad e r o ; the p

v m n t i o e n d o o n e n e o s e e s f alabast r a pr e ci us st s, a tiqu m saic

o n the n e h e of t h e C ad r tribu e . N ar t e chap l ruciﬁx is a

n h . e is s d chamber pai t ed by Paul Brill, on whic S C cily ai

t o hav e suffer ed martyrd o m .

R IPA GRAND E . The port and custo m hou se w e r e built b y ln noeen t XlI in 1 692 for the r e c epti on of m ercha n dize brought by ves sels which a sc en d the riv er a dis tan ce of 24 miles fro m

the sea . Seventh day . 1 3 7

In the v i n e M ci ity , aft erwards call d Prata utia fr o m he ut ae o e n n le h t d eed s of M ius Sc vola , P rs a had p ac d is

d n n camp , an Cle lia with her c o mpa i o s swam o v er t he

Tib er Wh en e scapi n g fro m t he Etrusca n s.

S. MI CHELE .

Thi s e stablishm en t was fo u n d e d by I n n o cen t XII in 1 86 t o e e e an d n oo en in the m e 6 , r c iv i struct p r childr

d ﬁn e an d o ffe an s l to male and c han ic alan arts , r a y um

on n o en an d man ufa fe mal e i n valids . It c tai s a w oll silk c

o an d on e fo r es in the s le of the o elin s. t ry, tap try ty G b

O P RT A FORT E SE .

a i 4 n I This gate w s subs t tut e d in 1 6 3 by Urba V II , t o the a n ci e n t p orta Por tuen sis built by Arcadiu s an d Ho n or ius in 402 wh en they r e st or ed th e wall s of th e city .

The of . F n F n s church S ra cis was giv en to S . ra ci in 1 229 and was r e stor e d by cardi n alPallavici n i on the

n t h o h d esig n s of R ossi . I e chapel t t he right of t e high n n f d n n altar is a ﬁne pai ti g o the Mad on n a child an 5 . A e by B ac ic cio . Aft e r passi n g the church e s of the 40 martyrs and

of S . Callixtus we arriv e at that of

S . MARIA IN T RA ST EVERE .

t he n n Me o n It is said that a ci en t Tab e r a rit ria , a ki d o f asylum for s oldi e rs aft e r a c e rtai n p e ri od o f s ervice was e o n o an d l n 224 situat d this sp t , that pop e C a ixtus i o btai n e d l eav e o f the e mp e r o r Al e xa n d e r S e v e rus to e re ct h e re an o rat ory which was the ﬁrst public plac e of Chri s t n o Ro e . I was e o e . in 34 ia w rship at m t r st r d by S Julius 0,

an d e w s en e n n o en I N ols and aft r ard larg d by I c t I , ich a V 1 38 Guide ofRome

C l em en t XI who add e d the pr e sen t p ortico which c on tai n s

n n n ma n y a n ci e t i scripti o s . Th e i n t e ri o r is divid e d i n t o t hr e e n av e s by 21 larg e gra n it e c o lum n s e xclusiv e o f t he fo ur supp orti n g a rich o n i so e n c a architrav e , s o m e havi n g an j c , m a co ri thia n

. The o n ic a r e o an d as e pital j capitals highly wr ught , th y

on n e of H o e of s an d of e e c tai ﬁgur s arp crat s , Isi S rapis , th y pr o bably b el on g e d t o a t e mpl e d edicat e d t o thos e e gyptia n

n i . Th n e t divi ti e s e pav e m e t , lik that of o the r a n ci en chur

e is os o f o se n n e an d o e s e ch s a m aic p rphyry , rp e ti th r p

ci es of marbl e . O n th e ce ili n g is a b eautiful pai n ti n g of t h e Assump

on o n n h i th c ha th e ti by D m e ichi o w o , n e last pelof right n e o Th h n av e pai t d als a child scatt e ri n g fl ow e rs . e hig altar is is o lat e d an d its baldachi n is s upp o rt e d by four

o o n . Th o of h e t o f th p rphyry c lum s e m saics t ribun e , e

e 1 1 43 e e e n our o t he n an d se e l y ar , r pr s t Savi ur , Virgi v ra sai n ts ; tho s e imm ediat e ly b e l o w r epr e s e n ti n g t he Virgi n

n and the tw elv e ap ostle s ar e m o re m o d er . Am on g the s epulchralm on um e n ts i n this church ar e t hos e o f La n fra n c o the pai n t e r of B ottari an d Nardin i e le e t wo c elbrate d it rary charact rs .

S. GRISO GO NO .

In 1 623 this a n ci en t church was r e st o r e d by cardi n al Scipi o B o rghe s e who add e d th e p o rtico supp o rt e d by fo ur

e e o h n r e d gra n it e c olum n s . Th three n av s f t e i te ri or ar e se parat ed by gr an ite colum ns o f t h e j on ic o rd er tak en

n h l n o e fr om a n ci e t m o n um en ts . T e ba dachi is supp rt d by

n e o four o f a rar e quality o f alabast e r . O the c ili n g is a c py

G r so o th e r i inal of S . y g n us carri ed up to h eaven fro m o g of Gue rci n o .

1 40 Guide ofRome

n S ot d o n n e e o n O a p a j i i g this church , wh r acc rdi g t o a n n e n on . e e e is s ll a ci t traditi S P t r was cruciﬁ d , a ma ro u n d t e mpl e with 1 6 colum ns of gr ey gran ite d esig ned by Brama n te .

T HE FON N O X T A A PA LI NA .

Is the larg es t o f th e city an d supplies th e gr eatest b ody o f wat e r which is bro ught in part fro m t h e lak es of

Braccia n o a nd Martig n a n o . Be tw een six j on i e colum n s o f r ed gra n it e are ﬁve n iches fo r the passag e of th e wat e rs . It was rais e d by Paul V in 1 61 2 with mate rials tak en o th e o o e fr m f rum f N rva .

he o . n o t n n an i en i T p rta S Pa crazi h e a ci e t J culs s , was r ebuilt by Urba n VIII wh e n he s urrou n d e d Tra st e v er e

al With W ls .

ln is i a O n th e right o f t he Aur e ia way a v llbuilt in t he fo rm of a shi p; in th e upp e r gall e ry 87 fee t lo n g an d 1 4 a e n di C o on a lle n wid e r pai n ti gs by Pi e tro rt , A gri i an d Grimal d i .

o f . n e o n S a The ch urch S Pa crac was f u d ed by S . ymm ch ns in 5 0 o e th e o of C ale odins ele d 0 , v r catac mbs p , c brat e o an d in t h o f th e in e ccl e sias tical hist ry e acts martyrs . The villa Pamphilj n owb e l on gi n g t o t he Do ria fa a out n e n n o e n F a d mily , w s laid u d r I c t X by alda n by

Alg ar di wh o built t he palace . It c on tai n s gro v e s e xt en l e falls o n n e o e s iv e al eys a lak e , wat r f u tai s d c rat d with a n tiqu e statu e s an d has r e li efs . In a hemicycl e is a marbl e Fau n that plays on the ﬂut e an d a n orga n set in m o ti on by wat e r . ln e a In th e palace ar e s e vera a tiqu bus t s , b s reliefs

E e e M an d o f an H o the statu es of ut rp , arsyas e rmaphr dite ; se v e ralt ombs an d columbaria wellpr e s e rv e d with n u on f le me rons i n t e r esti n g i n scripti s , hav e b een fo u n d o at

years an d ar e pr es erv ed in the villa . Seventh day.

PALAZZO C ORSINI . >f

This palac e s ituat e d in the Via Lun g ar a on e of the

f R o on n l e c ol m ost Sple n did palac e s o m e , c tai s a va uabl le cti on o f pai n ti n gs th e pri n cipal of whi c h ar e in t he ﬁrst

h c ho o . e o e a n d n r oom . T e E ce m , a S J r m a Samarita by e n o V e n us h er o le n o e an d Gu rci , at t i t by Alba , Luth r o n Ho n o F o o Cath e ri n e B r e by lb e i , a h ly amily by Gar fal , a pr es e n tati on at t h e t e mpl e by PaulVe ron ese a n d th e

n portrait o f Philip II by Titia .

h e se on o o on n . e o e l T c d r m c tai s a S J r m , Pau III an d a chac e by R ub en s a Noli me t a n g er e of Bar occi o th e on of . e e . o n th e He cruciﬁxi S P t r , a S J h Baptist ,

f o an n n n on o f B uon ar ot t i on n r odias o Guid A u ciati , Mad as by Sasso Fe rrata an d A n dr e a delSart o . The third roo m th e Savi our by C arlo D olci an Al ’ Schidon e M on n of n n o en o d lmola ba n o , a , a ad a I c z , a

n a on n G uide . S . Joh n d Mad a by In th e fo urth r oo m ar e p ortrait s by H olb e i n V an

o e of e n e o o t o C n dyk a D g V ic by Bar cci , w ardi als by

Do m en ichi n o , I n n o c e n t X by Di e go Velasqu e z a Gior

ion e the son of les Fe n n an d g s Char V , rdi a d I Philip II ,

by Titia n . In the ﬁfth room is a v iew of the B or r omaean i sle s

by Va n vit e lli a S . S ebastian of R ub en s t wo battl e s by d h e Bo rg ogn on e , an t e celb rated Madon n a an d child by

Murillo . In th e s o i th e n la t ro m s gia t Titiu s b y Salvat or Rosa .

' The library is particularly rich in man uscr ipts an d oo n e in th e n b ks pri t d e XV c tury . At th e e n d of th e gard en s an d on the ri se o f the n is l elon n t o th e th Ja iculum a vi la b gi g palac e , rai sed on e s lo e h e pot form er y ccupi d by t villa o f Martial. Guide ofRome

VILLA LANT E .

o d n t o s lR o Acc r i g Va ari Giu io ma no built thi s house for on s n o T n th e n m ig r uri i , i timat e fri e n d of Raphaelan d o n e of th e m os t disti n gui sh e d pr elat es of the c o urts of an d e e Leo X C lm n t VII . It form erly con tai n ed frescoe s b y Giulio an d his pu ’ s h e e en Mar pil whic W r grav ed by c An t on io Ag o sti n o t he en itian an d o e ele e V th r c brat d arti s ts . Th ese fr escoes ar e n o in t w he v illa Bo rghe s e . Afte r t he d e ath o f m on sig n o r T uri n i the villa pa ssed

i n to o ther ha n ds . Duri n g the last c en tury it b el on g e d to

the n e lwh o o in 1 824 t o n e La t fami y s ld it pri c B orgh ese . now elon s t o t h n ns of t he é r de It b g e u Sacr C oen Jésu s .

FARNE SINA .

The Farn esi n a palac e was built by Agosti n o Chigi n e an d on of th e ﬁn s un e Le o on the a ba k r patr e art d r X ,

In th n e n o t e de sig n s o f P e ruzzi . e XVI c e tury it f lli t h pos sessi o n o f th e Farn ese an d at the e xti n cti o n o f that house in 1 731 it b e cam e the pr op e rty of the r e ign i n g family of Napl e s . Thi s palace is in t e r esti n g for th e light n ess an d e le gan ce o f it s archit e ctur e a c on t ain n ig the fabl e o f Cupid an d Pysch e pai n t e d i o fro m t h e o rigi n alde ‘ he sig n s o f Rapha e l a n d u n de r his dir e cti on . T subj e ct e l ta ken fro m Apul e iu s is distribut d as fo l ows : th e as se mb ly of t he god s with Ve n u s an d Cupid i n form Ju e of the o e e n lMe esen s P sch e pit r pr j ct d uptia s , rcury pr t y

h c u o f o the e o l With t e p ambr sia , pldg e o f imm rta ity ; t he n uptials of C upid an d Psych e c e lebrat ed in Olympus and th e gen e ralba n qu e t of th e go ds .

1 44 Guide ofRome

The r oom s on th e ﬁrs t st o ry c on tain fr es c oes of Pe

o f th e oolo f R el ruzzi sch apha a n d of S od o ma . o n th e Lun ar a ar e t h f Al g Via g echurch e s o S . Gia

om e f . C o e e e n e n o f the n a c , o S r c d lla P it za , Visitati o nd of . F n s de es allon n n n n s o n o S ra ci Sal , c tai i g pai ti g vari us r eligio us s ubj e ct s . e n S . Maria R gi a Coeli was built i n 1 654 by A nn e olo n n h o at the f e n t o C a w d eath o h r husba d , r e tir ed t he on s e n n e e e e t m a t ry a x d t o thi s church . It r c iv e d i s appel

’ lati on from t he a n the m R eg in a Caeli lce ta r e a lle lm a which t he e e N n ar e o e t o n o carm lit u s blig d si g eve ry f ur ho urs . Th e palazzo Salviati was built o n th e d e sig n s o f Baccio ’ d Agn olo a c on t e mpo rary of Rapha e l wh o with t h e dis ti n guish ed artists of that p eri o d us e d t o asse mble in his

t e n on f e s tudi o . At he xti cti o th Salviati family this pa lace cam e i n to th e p osse ssi on of go ve r n m en t who plac ed

e 1 82 e h re its archiv e s . Si n ce 0 th e gr ou n ds hav b een r e d c d e n e n u e to a b ota n ic gard d p en d en t on th e U ive rsity .

as i 1 4 9 The church o f S . O n ofri o w built n 3 fo r t he e f h e h rmits o t e con gr egati on o f S . Je ro m so m e act s of whose life hav e b een pai n t e d in fr e sco by Do m en ichi no . The b eautifulpai n ti n g of t he Mado n n a an d child sur r ou n de d with a n gels imm ediat ely o v e r the door is also

e e . a by t hat cele brat e d artist . Th c on v n t of S O no fri o W s t h e re sid en c e o f Ta sso in his latt e r days an d h e r e he di ed in 1 595 ; his t omb is on the l e ft in e n t e ri n g th e church . In th e c on v en t is a Madon n a said t o b g pa in t ed by Leo

n ard o da Vi n ci .

T HE PORT A S. SPIRI TO .

Was raised by Leo IV in 850 wh en h e surro unded n ls an d n e lIII s e as the Vatica with wal , u d r Pau thi gat w e e r e built on th e d e sig n s o f Sa n gall o . Its n am is d e riv d from th e adj o in i n g church an d hospital of Sa n t o Spirito Seventh day . 1 45 i n wh ich is an e stab lishm e n t for lu n atics fo u nded by Be e n edic t XIII and e n larg d u n d e r Leo XII .

o th n a n is as The p on t e Sist e a ci e n t pon s J n icule s , w restored by Sixtus IV in 1 474 ; t he fo un t ai n O pposit e the Via Giulia placed he re by PaulV o n th e d esig n s of John i o ose of two on ic oln s o n an Fo n ta n a , s c mp d j c um s upp rti g a t tic an d a n ich e t hrough which the wat e r s falli n to a

n larg e ba si . ’ th in i ade elle in ilin 1 1 4 The church of e Tr t P gr i bu t 6 , c o n tai ns o v e r the pri n cipalaltar a pai n ti n g o f the h oly t e o Tri n ity by Guid o o n e of h e b st works f that arti st . d I n t he adj oi n i n g buildi n g pilgrims a r e re c e ive d , an con

‘ Valescen ts admitte d from the h osptials of t he ci ty . ’ n ar i o h The i n t eri o r o f S . Carlo a C ati i s f t e co ri n

* thia n o rd e r an d posse sses s e v e ralpai n ti ng s of merit . O ne

d e e n Ch le in o e s on by Pi e tro i Corton a r pr se t s S . ar s a pr c s i ; four cardi nalvirtu es u n d e r the d o m e a r e by Do m en ichi no

an d th e d eath of S . Ann e by A n dr e a Sacchi . The C a n celleria a palac e d esti n e d for th e r esid en ce o f th e vic e cha n cell o r of th e church ~ wa s c omm e n ced by

cardi n alMezzar o tta an d ﬁ n ish e d u n d e r Sixtus IV . The archit e cturald esig n s w e r e giv en by Brama n t e who surr ou n d ed t he c o urt with a d o ubl e p o rtic o sup

‘ o e 44 n ln s e n o th e o o of p rt d by gra it e c o um , tak fr m p rtic h ls o e . he on e th o o e an d t e e P mp y T st s o f e C l ss um , marb of the arch o f G ordia n w e r e e mploy ed in th e con structi on f o this palac e .

Th n i s l e adj o i n i g church of S . Lo r en zo n Dama o bui t in 384 n lso i ono of . e n e t he was h ur S Laur c martyr , a t r r d es to e o n the d esig n s o f Brama n t e . It con tai n s the statue

an o f S . C lo Bo rro m eo by Mad e r n o a n d the t omb of An

n lC o e e e f th iba ar a c l brat ed p o t o e XVI c e n tury . A smalle diﬁc e in a n e ighb o uri ng s tr ee t called the F r n e n R a a si a , was built by pha el . 1 46 Guide ofHome

In the i z p a za Farn ese a r e two larg e gra n it e basi n s 1 rﬁ ee h an d 1 7 lon o n in the a s of lla . f t hig g , f u d b th Caraca

‘ T HE ZZO PALA FARNE SE.

Was comm en c e d by PaulIII on the d esig n s of Arr

on n lo n d n t i o Sa gal a ﬁ ish ed u n d e r cardi n alAl e xa n d e r

F n e e M e n e o B on aro tt i. T e ﬁ l ar s by icha l g l his di ce , bui t A “ lo e n o th e C olo e o With b cks tak fr m ss um , is f a squar e form ; th e o e o e of c urt has thr e rd rs archite cture . O n th e ﬁrst st o ry is t he gall e ry of A nn ibalCaracci n n con tai i g his b est co mpositi on s . In the c en tr e of th e c e ili n g is th e tri umph of Bacchu s an d Ariad n e ; th e g o ld en car O f Bacchus is draw n by two e O f n e in e t O h e o s o tig rs ; that Ariad silv r , by W w it g at ; b th cars a r e surr o u n d e d wit h Fau n s Satyrs Baccha n t e s and e preced d by Sile n us . The r o u n d pictur e s r e pr e s e n t Pan o ffe ri n g to Dia n a

th oolof o an d e en n the ole n e w his g ats , M rcury pr es ti g g d

apple t o Pa r is . In th e larg e pictur es Galat ea is carri e d o n the se as

oo o f N C an d T o n o o n amid a tr p ymphs , upids rit s Aur ra h e r c ar carrie s off C e phalus ; Polyph e mus e n d eav o ur s t o

e th e o n s of e an d n ot s uc charm Galat a by s u d his pip ,

ce edin g hurls a r ock at Aci s who carri es h e r away . The fo ur s quar es re pr e s e n t Jupit e r r e c e ivi n g Ju n o in

n l n e n En o n lt o t he uptia c on ch ; D ia a car ssi g dymi , whi e w

C upids con c e al ed in a bush e n j oy th e ir victory o ve r he r .

i t e o f e n n th e la or n d He rcul e s n h e dr ss Jol, playi g o b , a J ol e c o v e r ed with th e ski n of th e n e maean li o n lea n in g on

n e e n b n f o the club o f H ercul e s . A chis s d tachi g a uski r m t he e of o e us the fo o t of V e n us . O ver ﬁgur P lyph m ‘ o o r e H acinth ns iter n de the o m Ap ll ca ri s away y ; a , u r f r

o f an e e n e e . agl , Ga ym d

1 48 Guide ofRome

o e si ed n e h i e an th e s me t P mp y t uat ar s th atre , d to b e a s ta ue

e e f at t h ba s o which C aesar fe ll. The galle ry of this palace con tai n s am on g s t o ther

’ pictur e s a David with the h e ad of Goliath a Magdalen by Gu erci n o ; a R o man charity by A n n ibalC aracci ; a Judith a n d a Lucre tia by Guid o ‘ Chri st di s puti n g with the d o ct o rs by Leo n ard o da Vi n ci th e marke t of Naples and th olt o f M n ello e lAn e lo le e r e v asa i , by Micha g d el o e s on of El e n e del Bamb cciat a vi itati S . izab th by A dr a Sart o ; two la ndscapes by Salvat or Rosa; se ve ral p ortraits b T n n a d n . y itia , Va dyk n Ti t ore tto e 1 The church of S . Tho mas was gi v n in 575 by Gr e

o III o t he olo n e e ho e lt an d e e it g ry V t t B g s w r bui d dicat d t o . o n h E e d e o n . ele S J h t e va n g list an S . P tr ius The c brat e d

n n f h n an d o se t o s n b pai ti g o t e B . Virgi f th e w ai ts y De m n ichi . e no , has disapp eare d

’ O . S. MAR IA C ALLE D D ELLA M RTE

' ’ This church was built by a fr ate r n ity in 1 575 Whose Obj e ct was to ren d e r th e last duti e s t o t hose who We re

o n e i t e e to f u d d ad n h e campag n a of R o m e . It is d dicat d th e n o f e th hol en e n e ose Virgi pray r , e y Sacram t b i g xp d 4 th o duri n g 0 hours t he ﬁrst su n day o f each mon , a pi us e e e n o e 1 for me d in allo e es le x rcis , w p th r church , a t r na t h ely thro u gho ut t e y ea r .

’ h e o b le m e n t an d co n This churc was r st r e d y C VII , l il tai n s a holy Family by Masucci ; a S . Micha e by a pup

F on e b e and es oes of Rapha e l ; S . Julia n a alc i ri y Gh zzi fr c

b y La n fra n c . h lo n ale the e en e of the in es T e Fa c i e ri p ac , r sid c pr c

f h a t n n t o as e in t he e n o t a ci e h us e , w r built XVII c tury

on the d esig n s of B o rr o mi n i . ~ n Sien a b uilt t he e n ese in 1 526 S . C at e ri a di , by Si f R e lthe c o n tai n s fr e s c o e s by d e lla Vit e a pupil o apha ; 1 49 Seventh da y .

d n t h pri n cipalaltar h as a pai n ti n g by J e r o m e e lla G e ga , e ﬁgur e o ve r th e d oo r is by Pass eri wh o wrot e th e hi story o f th e arti st s o f his tim e .

R O O T N O T NS. 8 . S PI I T F HE EAP LI A

T n on a in 1 2 an d e o e his ati al church w s built 57 , r st r d

in t e r o Fo n n a n d C o o n e oln . In the 1 io by Carl ta a sim , a ap ita

ar e e f . F n d e o a e a miracl o S ra cis Pa la by L mb rti , a mar t r e n n n . y do m of S . G ar o by Luca Gi o rda o ; a S Tho mas

n he s . Aqui as by Murat ori . T cup ola is by Pas eri

N T HE ORA T OR Y O F SS. PE T ER A D PAUL D E L GONFALO NE .

n t n th e t f1 at er n it I 1 264 S . Bon av en ur e i stitut e d ﬁrs y o f l n in R o a n d e th e n e o f th e G on aym e me , gav it am fa lon o t f this o o e e ts e r ba n n er . O n h e walls o rat ry s v ral fac o f th e n ew t estam e n t w e r e pai n t e d i n fre sco by Agre sti an d t o h e rs who p ai n t e d als o t h e altar pi e c e . In t he Via Giulia is t h e church o f 3 Ma ria d e lSuf fr a io de n n o k o f g , sig n ed by Rai n aldi . I t co tai s w r s Natali

e T o C h B e n n as ch i n e the F e n Gh zzi , r ppa iari , Da i l l mi g a n d o the r artists .

In o n t h e th e h f . n e e littl e c urch o S Fausti a , e r ct d sp o t s el e ct ed by Julius II fo r a palac e fo r t he civil a n d

n n f R ic t o f t he ln m an crimi al tribu al O om e , is a p ue e b i d

e our o t o b n o . cur d by Savi ur , said e Muzia

, s . N GI OVA NI D E F I OR ENT I NI .

A c ompa n y o f Fl o r en ti n e s e r e ct ed this chu r ch in 1 588

“ o n the d esig n s of Giac o m o d ella P o rta ; th e fron t was rais ed e n he in by Alxa d e r Galilei by o rd e r o f C l e m en t XII. T t ario t is divid ed i n t o thr e e n av es th e pain ti n g in t he 15 0 G uide ofRome

e chap elo f S . J rom e is by Sa n t e Titi ; th at ih the side

el C ol the o of o chap by ig i ; martyrd m SS . C smas an d R Damia n by Salvato r osa . Th e altar pi e ce is d e c orat ed

h e o n th e de n of e o o Wit marbl sig s Pi tr di C rt on a , an d at t he e xp en s e o f t he Falcon i e ri family : t h e gr ou p o v e r th e altar r e pre sen ti n g th e baptism of Christ is by Raggi ; tha t o f Charity by Guidi t h e t omb o f m on sig n o r C o rsi n i is by a r di o f c c ia oli F e a Alg that A j u by rrat a . Th e ch pelo f the n n C ruciﬁx was pai t e d b y La fr an co a

VA T ICA N BR IGD E.

Th e p eri o d o f the fo u n dati on o f this b r idg e is un c ertai n I t app ears t hat in th e V c e n tury it was in a s tate h e n of als t m d o f rui n . T e r mai s w lo f he i dle ages stills een ' i n th e e ar o n e on the n o e n en riv r , e f u d d rui s f th a ci t bridg e a part o f which was d e m olish e d in 1 81 2 in o rde r

t n o of t h o am eliorat e t he avigati n e ri ve r .

Q WIIDE Oli ?ROME

E I G H T H D AY

F ROM THE E LIAN BRID GE T O MONTE MARIO .

The Vatica n hillform s the pr olun g at ion o f the Ja n i c ulum its app ellati o n is m ost pr obably d e rive d fro m o u

' r o le e e e e e th e e o of t he tieim a , o rac s d liv r d h r at p ri d

- d omi n ati on o f th e e trusc o v e ian s . In a n ci en t tim e s it was

h e in th e n un n ot i n clud e d withi n t city , e XVI c tury , d er

n 1 n Sixtus V it form ed o e of the 4 divi si o s .

Ell-IAN BR I D GE OR P ONT E S. ANGEL O .

This bridg e was built by t h e e mp e r o r Adria n t o

n n se rv e as a c o mmu icati o with his ma us ol e um an d circus . It con si sts o f thr ee c e n tral an d fo ur small e r ar c h e s : it was r esto r ed by Nich olas V an d by C l e m e n t VI I who e r ecte d

. e an on it th e statu es of SS P t er d Paul .

T H E MAU SOLEUM OF A D R IAN.

lo n t r Bui t h e m od el o f that o f Augustus fo the sepul t ur e o f the e mp e ro r an d th e m e mb e rs o f his family is 200

ee in e t h e n t o o o f t diam e t r e ext ri o r , acco rdi g Pr c pius was co v ere d with paria n marbl e a n d d ec o rat e d wi th pi

a e o n an e n n f t h e l st rs supp rti g tablatur e . At e ach a gle o squ ar e bas e w e re gro ups o f m e n a n d h ors es : t he ro u n d t o o e e t p was c v r d wi h statu e s . In the d e cli n e o f t he e mpire thi s m on um en t Was u se d as a me a n s of d efen se of the city : Pr oco pius add s that its “ 1 52 G uide ofRome

’ ‘ o n en s e e in e d the e ho for t iﬁ b r am t w r ru by Gr eks , w edjtli em s e es e e a n t he o t n d lv h r gai st G hs , a brok e the statu e s t o

e n t h e e r t hr ow th m agai st e b si g e s .

In the e n t e n was o e C r e s c n t iu t h c tury it f rtiﬁ d by e s ,

n o o n an d e n a bl e r ma , succe ssiv ly u d e r s e ve ral p o p es fro m

o n e t o U n . n ow e Fo B ifac IX rba VIII It is call d rt e S . An gelo fro m th e statu e of the archa n g el Micha e l plac e d on i ts summit i t c o mmun icat es wi th the Vatica n palace by a a co v e r e d arch w y .

SANT O SPIR I T O .

T os lth e o e en ve o th his h pita , m st xt si f e city , r e

h th e n e an n c e iv as t e s ick i sa n d fo u dli n gs . It was fo u n d ed

n n o en in 1 1 98 . on n s n e o f n o by I c t III It c tai a cabi t a at my . The adj oi n i ng church was r ebuilt in 1 538 on th e d esig ns h a l of Sa g lo.

' ' s . MAR IA IN T RAsP ONr INA.

Was r e st or ed i n 1 563 : th e r e was fo rm e rly n ear the t lon u o e in t he le e s bap isma f t a pyramid s pp s d , midd ag t t f R o l or of o E o have b een h e t omb o mu us , Scipi milia n

a a h t t o e a the con qu e ro r o f C rth g e . T e marble ha c v re d it w s ’ appli e d by p op e Do n o I t o pave th e atrium o f S . Pe t e r s. In th e small piazza Sco ssaca v alli is a palace o f the a rchit e ct ure o f Brama n t e n ow b elo n gi n g t o t he To rlon ia family by who m it has b ee n gre atly e mb ellish ed.

PIAZZA S. PIE TRO .

The are a 1 075 in length fo rmi n g this pia zza may b e

e on s th t 2 1 6 e lon a n d divded i n to thre e s cti : e ﬁrs fe t g , l t o the n l o f a e el 204 wid e eads pri cipa piazza , r gular li t ic o o n e a olos lolon n de of the do c p f rm , b u d d by c sa c a ri

1 Eig hth day . 5 3

d o o s of olns o n e s e the o r e r , formed by f ur r w c um ach id , c en tralroad b e i n g larg e e n ough t o admit t wo carriag es

e e o os 6 e e e a n d 6 1 o n n a br eas t . Th s p rtic , 5 f t wid high c tai 284 c olum n s an d s uppo rt a balustrad e o n which a r e pla h e e o n c ed 1 92 c o l ossals tatu e s 1 1 fe e t high . T s c d s e cti on of th e piazza is 738 fe e t in len gth a n d 588 in

h e on e e e n the b a br e adth . T e third s cti imm e diat ly pr c di g

lis e e a n d e e an t o si ic a r gular trap zium , s rv s as atrium th e church its le n g th is 296 an d its br eadth 336 fee t . Ne ar t he ob elisk ar e t wo fou n tai n s by C arl o Mad e rno e ach raisi n g t o a he ight o f 9 fee t a b ody o f wat e r which falls in t o a ro u n d gra n ite basi n 50 fe e t in circumfere n ce .

’ S . BASILI C or s . PE T ER

This m ag n iﬁc e n t t emple is situat e d i n th e Vatica n t erri t o ry o f th e a n ci en ts fro m which it d e riv e s its d e n o

n h e n a mi n at i on . I n this dire cti o w e re t e gard s n d circu s a Ne r o wh er e t he massacr e o f th e christia n s r elat ed by

t oo T e e n e e n e e in a Tacitus , k plac e . h ir r mai s w r i t rr d

n th Pe t r n o n grotto ear e circus an d 8. e havi g s o aft e r suf fe r ed martyrd o m his discipl e Mark c on v e y e d his b ody t o th e sam e Spo lw e r e an o rat o ry was rais e d o v e r his t o mb

o e . e In 26 C o n n n l the o n by p p S A n acl t us . 3 sta ti e aid f u

on s o f th e c h ur ch d e n o ﬁve n h dati , ivid d i t ave s , whic e s h xi t e d till t e X V c e n tury .

N o de o f e n in o no f h ich las V , sir us o e r cti g h ur o t e pri n c e o f the apo stl es a t e mpl e e qual in Spl e n d o ur t o that o f o o on o e n th II ib n n e in 1 4 S l m c mm c e d e 50 , which was

o n n e II. In 1 50 II a e n c ti u d by Paul 3 Julius , ft r havi g e a n e th e de n o f t he o e s x mi d sig s m st skilful archit cts , e lec t e d t o f n h o e e t he n ol. hat Brama t e , w d vis d gra d cup a

e th e de of II an d o f B n e Le o Aft r ath Julius rama t , X on de the o t o n o to fr h o on o an d ﬁ c ﬁ d w rks Sa gall , Gi c d n t o R a a e an d e e e t o e u o f en ally ph l , at his d c as , P r zzi Si a , 1 0 * 1 5 4 Guide ofRome who on e ed th l n c v rt e ati n i t o a greek cr oss and completed the un e n e C e e n trib u d r l m t VII .

His s e so III e le e ucc s r Paul s ct d as archit ect A n t on io ' S n llo os n o a ga , wh e pla c n sist e d in r ead opti n g t he lati n

o o n t o t he e n of n cr ss acc rdi g d sig Brama t e . At t h e d eath o f n o th ‘ Sa gall , e dir e cti o n o f t he w o rk s was e n lr ust ed t o

M eln e o B on ar ot t i ho icha A g l w r e sum e d t he pla n of Pe en l e t he n e t he ruzzi , arg d tribu , arms o f t he tra n sve rse

' n es e n e de si n fo t av , gav a w g r h e c up ola an d int e n d ed to l on lt o of th bui d a fr t simi ar that e Pa n th eon . Aft e r Micha el n elo n ' A g Vig o la rais e d t he two lat eralcup o la s ; an d

o o e o o le e th e c e n t r a o n Giac m d lla P rta c mp t d le . Un d e r Paul V th e w o rk Wa s ﬁ n ishe d by C arlo Ma d n o h o e t he o n a n d n er , w rais d fr t p ortic o , a d aba n done d t he pla n s o f B o n ar o t t i for tho s e of B eam an te by givi n g the e th o of n t mpl e e f rm a lati cr o ss . F i n ally u n d e r Alexa n d e r VII the p o rtico of th e piazza was c on struct e d by B e r n i n i an d u n d e r Piu s VI the sa

s n t n cri ty was add ed o h e pla n s of Marchi o n i .

n n l e o t h e of eln Pai ti g , scu ptur m saics , art m ti g

on e n n allth e e Con e t o br z , gildi g , carvi g , arts hav tribut d e mb ellish this t e mpl e th e m ost Splen did n o t on ly of Rome t but of h e wh ole w orld .

The on o d of ol n s 8 e e 5 fr t is c mp o s e e ight c um , f t i n che s in diam e t e r 88 in height i n cludi n g th e bas e an d

4 a n d capital , c o ri n thia n pilast e rs an e n tablatur e attic

' t e rmi n at ed by a b alust r ade supp o rti n g 1 3 sta tu es 1 7 fee t high r e pr e s en ti n g o ur Savi o ur an d t he ap ostl es . The he igh t fro m t he pav e m en t t o t h e t op o f t h e cr oss o v e r t h e cup ola is 424 fee t . The p o rtico is 439 fe e t in l en g th an d 47 in breadth ; at o n e e n d is th e statu e o f Charl e mag n e by C o r n ac chin i h at the o the r that o f C on sta n ti n e by B e r n i n i . T e pilast e rs li n i n g th e po r t 1 c o supp o rt an e n tablature an d a r oo f 6 2 fee t high c ov e r e d with gilt stucco ; o v er t he gr eat doo r is t he

1 5 6 Guide ofRome

a hin n d c er ect ed i 1 633 by Be r n i n i is support ed by four i e l o n s o f th e o o e o e of l on e rr gu ar c lum c mp sit rd r , gi t br z , 34 fe e : th e n les ar e o n el t high at a g f ur a g s , in the c en tre i s a lo e o n t h h g b supp rti g e cr oss . T e t otalheight of t he ld n ba achi is 86 fee t .

T HE C UPO LA .

Brama n t e havi n g con c e i ve d th e ide a o f erectin g the larges t cup ola in t he wo rld fo rm ed fo r i ts s upport fo u r

lls 206 e e n e n pi ar f t i circumf re ce . In his d e sig ns for this c M eln e n n e o hurch icha A g l o pla d a d uble cup o la ; b et wee n the s ar 2 Wall Which e 2 feet thick , a s tair case leads h t o t e ball .

The e e of the o is 1 0 ee th e diam t r cup la 3 f t , e h ight of the ls 1 6 o f the ol1 55 of the n e n 3 pil ar 6 , cup a la t r 5 , of the p ed estal o f t he b all29 tf z of the ball it self 7 if} : and th o n 42 e cr ss 1 3 fo rmi g a to tal he ight o f 6 fee t . Thirty two co ri n thia n pilast e rs b e tween Which ar e sixteen Wi n d ows supp o rt an en tablature fr o m which co m

n th n o f th e ol n o we ce s e c o cavity cup a , divid ed i t sixt een o n o n e ls o e and os s c mpartm e ts , ad r d with gi t tucc s m aic

e n n t h . n t h e o les an d r pre s e ti g a n gel s e B Virgi , ap st se v e ralsai n ts . O n the fri es e o f the e n tablatur e supp ort e d b y the four larg e pillars is th e followi n g t e xt o f t he G o sp e l : Tu es Pe trus e t sup er h auc pe t r am aediﬁc ab o cc cle siam m eam e t tibi dab o clav e s r e g n i c oelor um In the upp e r n ich e s o f th e pillars fo rm e d i n to b al co n i e s with a balustrad e iin fro n t an d c olum n s at e ach

n ar e e e e t h e o e o ar e s id e ma y r elics pr s rv d , m st pr ci us

e n . in th at o v e r the statu e o f S . V r o ica The statu e s in t h e l owe r n ich e s allud e t o th e in st r u

n e on o s t he o m e n t s o f th e pa ssio . S . V r ica h ld cl th that ’ s. Helen th e wip ed the sw eat from our Savi our s fac e , Eig hth day. 1 57

n d he ln e ie n ls a oss . on n s t ced h is ai cr , S L gi u a c that p r s id e t he fo urth r e presen t s S . A n drew .

T RIBUNE AND CHAIR OF 8 P ET ER.

At t h e extre mity o f the gra n d n av e ar e the tribun e and l o e is the ma e lo f the a tar , v r which chair , d part y

oo o f o o e e o n e n an d W d , partly iv ry , c v r d with r am ts sup p ort ed by four col ossalﬁgure s r e pr e s en ti n g th e c e l e brat ed doct o rs of the lati n an d gr eek church S . Ambr ose

n . n an d . o n so o . T O S . Augu sti e , S Atha asius S J h C hry st m W

th e a n d on tiﬁ ale e of a nge l s bear tiara p c k ys , a multitud t he th o in t he seraphin s v en e rat e chair : e h ly Gh ost ,

o e ns t h e n shap e o f a d v crow e tir e Work . The t o mb o f Paul 1 1 1 was ex e cut e d by Gugli elmo

n e t e n n t the della Po rta u d r h dir e cti o of Micha e l A g el o . A base are the r e cli n i n g statu e s o f Justice a n d Prud en c e ; the form e r b e i n g n early n ak e d was partly co v e r e d by

n n e B e r n i i with a bro ze drap ery . Th s e pulchralm on um e n t o f U n th e of e rba VII I with e statu s Charity an d Justic , is a w o rk o f B e r n i n i . !Th c c e ili n g o f th e trib u n e is c o ve r e d with gilt stuccoes an d has e e s . C n th e e t o . e e t ak e r li f hrist givi g k ys S P t r , is n.

o e n of R t h n fr m a d sig apha e l , e cruciﬁxio o f t he apostl e

o n n o f o the fr m a pai ti g Guid d ecollati on of S . Paulfrom a a h s r eli e f of Algar di.

SO U T H SI D E.

e n the n e o n t h e le the s l L avi g tribu ft , ﬁr t a tar , ad or n e d with two larg e colum n s o f black e gyptia n gra n e o n n o e e e n n e e n t h it c tai s a m saic r pr s ti g S . P t r curi g e

e m an th e o r n n n e lam , igi al pai ti g is by Fra n c sco Ma n ci n i .

O os e the o of le n e II ho n 1 6 91 pp it is t mb A xa d r V I , w di ed i 1 58 Guide ofRome

b n T a y A drea R ossi. he b s r eli e f allud es to the can on ization of se e ls n s n ff n 1 v ra ai t by that p o ti i 690 .

O n th e n e l of . Leo has ele of xt a tar , that S , is a r i f Alar di e n n e n Hom at the g , r pre s e ti g Attila r tiri g fr o m e

s of . an ight SS Pe t e r d Paul . O e th e i lo s of th v r third , s a miracu u image e B . Vir gin an d on the cupola ar e m osaics f1 om t he desig n s of An

e an d n n dr a Sacchi La fra c . O ve r th e fo urth O pp osit e th e t o mb of Alexa nde r VII e n n is th e fallof on th e n o a by B r i i , Sim magicia , fr m

in n n pa ti g by Va n n i of Si e a .

Nea the o ho 1 ld en ar e o er r t mb of Piu s VII by T wa s , th

ls t he on o f . e e f1 om an o r i in al a tar with cruciﬁxi S P t r , g

o an d . h ur o by Guid , S Tho mas t ouchi n g t e sid e of o Savi ur

o C amu in fr m cc i. O v e r an altar o n the O pp osit e p illar eft he gra nd cu

ol o a n n R n lof Ananias p a is a m saic , fro m o rigi al by o cal i

an d e e . Sapphira e xpiri n g at th e fe e t of S . P t r “ In t h e C le m en ti n e chap e l is am o saic from a pai n ti n g t of A n dr e a Sacchi r epr e s e n ti n g a miracl e of S . Greg ory h e e h os of th gr a t whose b o dy is u n d e r this altar . T e m aics e

cup ola ar e fro m w orks of R on calli . O n a n o th e r pillar of th e gra n d cup ola is th e m osaic

o of th e r n In th e e of t he o c py T a s ﬁg ui at ion . chap l ch ir is th e on e n i n of C c pti o fro m t he o r ig n alof Bia n chi . I that t h en o n th i1 in e en e th e e e e Pr es tati e B . V g pr s t d at t mpl i o the o n Th o o f M s fr m o rigi n al o f R ma e lli . e t mb aria

t h e in 1 o n e n e S obi e ski Stuar w o di d 755 , is r am t d with a

f o C an d e n u sarcophagus o p rphyry , with a harity a g i s holdi n g he r portrait o pposit e ar e tho s e o f the thr ee last o pri n ce s of the ho us e of Stuart by Ca n va . The baptismal fo n t of the last chap elo n the right:

2 o an d o c on sists o f a p o rphyry ur n 1 fee t l n g six br ad ,

co v e r ed with a br o n ze gilt pyramid s upporti n g a lamb , h e n os r e re t he symb olof the r ed eem er . T e c tral m aic p

1 60 Guide ofRome f o Ni ols o ss n an d o f . e n esls in of r m ch a P u i , S W c au k g o th n o e Bohemia fr m e origi alby C ar s lli . O ve r th e last pillar o f the cup ola is th e m osaic fr om

a t e e o n t e L n fra n c of h e bark o f S . P t r h p o i n t o f si n ki ng en o e h t Wh Christ c m s t o t e assis a n ce o f th e ap ostle .

O os e t he o of C e e n n o . I pp it is t mb l m t XIII by Ca va t. is co mp o sed of thre e larg e ﬁgure s : th e p o p e in praye r R eligi on s upporti n g t he cr oss an d t h e G en iu s o f death se at e d n ear t he sarco phagus of two r e cumb en t b as r eli ef

e s of and F an lon s o ﬁgur Charity o rtitud e , d t wo i s ymb lic of the s e n o f n i n n tr gth mi d which d sti guish e d that p o tiff. In th e last chap e l o f t his sid e o f th e basilic ar e mo sa s o f th e . M e o f o an d of the . e o n ic S icha l Guid , S P tr illa o f e n o os of th e ar e o n Gu rci , th e cup ola fr m pai ti n g s b y

A e R o n a a n dr a Sacchi ma e lli n d B en e ﬁl. Aft e r th e t otn b of C l e me n t X is the m osaic fro m th e

n lof C o n o f . e o n origi a sta zi , S P e t e r r st ri g Tabitha t o life . The pav e m en t o f the a n ci e n t basilic pr e s e rv e d e n tire

Fo is 1 1 fe e t u n d e r that o f th e m o d e r n . ur small chap els co rr esp on d t o the pillars that supp o rt the cup o la a n d o v e r t h e ir altars a r e m osaic s ubj e cts tak e n fr o m wo rk s of

A n dr e a Sacchi .

h a elof th e C on es on e n e t he nd T e ch p f si , plac d u d r gra altar o f th e n ewba silic was o r n am e n t e d by C l e m e n t VII I with marble gilt stucco an d 24 bron z e r e li efs allusive to

f a n d . T r su n dry e v e n ts in th e live s o SS . Pe t e r Paul his alta is h e ld in the highest v en e rati on b e i n g place d o v e r the t o mb o f th e pri n ce of th e ap o stl e s . Am o n g th e t o mbs o f this subt e rra n eo us church ar e o f C o e ee n of Je those of t he e mp er o r O tho II , harl tt qu r usa lem an d Cypru s o f Jam es Stuart III an d o f s eve r al

lo o n n n e o e e e s pope s . It a s c tai s um r us statu s bas r li f m osaics pai n ti n gs i n scripti on s a n d o th e r sacre d m on u

n lo n n t o the n en . m e ts , b e gi g a ci t church Eig hth day .

T HE SA CR I ST Y .

d i ; The v e stib ule lead s t o thr ee galle ri es ado r n e wth e b e t gr ey marbl e colum n s an d v e rd e africa n o pilast rs , d e n in i ons we e n which ar e vari o us a n ci en t an m od r scr pti , t f a n d th e busts of se v e ralp on i fs . Fat In th e sacristy o f t he ca n on s ar e a pai n ti n g by d t t or e a pupil o f R apha elon e by Giuli o Roma no an wo

In the ad on in ar e M n o by C avallucci . j g sacristy a uzia , e an d an r e presen ti n g C hri s t g1 v in g the k eys t o S . P e t r

n . a n ci en t imag e o f t he B . Virgi The ext e rn al part s o f the t e mple can alon e con v ey an a i n n se of 1 42 e s ccurat e d ea of i ts size . A wi di g stair ca st p ls lead s t o a platfo rm on which ar e two o cta n gular cup o a t s 1 36 fe e t i n h eight ; t hat of the gra n d cup ola abo v e hi f le e s platform is 285 fe e t ; it is e n t e r e d by m ea n s o ga l ri i e co mmun icati n g with the i n t e rn alen tablatur e 7 fe e t w d

d in t t h e s r an d 3 80 i n ci rcu m fe r en c e . As c e n g o po t wh e e the ola i o le e e e s e t o t he n e n cup s d ub , s v ral st p l ad la t r othe rs t o th e b allo f gilt bro n ze which is 7 rf z fe e t in e an d o n n oom fo r 1 e son an on ldd r diam t e r c tai s r 6 p r s , ir a e leads t o t he cross which is 1 3 fe e t high . ’ t In ﬁ n ishi n g o ur cursory vi ew o f S . P et e r s i may n o t b e fo re ig n t o th e purp ose t o add that thr ee c en turi e s an d a half w er e e mploy ed i n its c on structio n ; tha t in c on tai n s t n o ls e es the on e e M e n elo e cup a b sid rais d by icha l A g ,

l o n s 29 n n i n os o 1 4 » 96 marb e c lum , pai ti gs m aic ab ut 0

f 9 1 ar e le 28 o an d 2 1 n s tatues , o which marb , stucc bro ze ;

tha t fro m t he e n tra n ce t o t he chair o f S . P e te r th e len gth

is 575 e e an d th e e n th e o s 41 t f t , br adth u de r cr s 7 , hat the i e n e 2 eet 1 4 m ddl av is 8 f br oad an d 2 high , e ach o f

th e le ln e 20 e e e an d ll at ra av s f t wid , that fro m a ca cu ation ma d e b y Carlo Fouta n e in 1 693 the expen ces exclusive 1 62 Guide ofHome of the ildin s d the s i amo n ed g g , m osaic works an acr sty , u t a e o t i at th t p ri d o nearly 252 mill on s of fr an cs .

T HE VA T I CAN PALA C E .

The p eri o d of the fou n dat i on o f the Vatica n is n ot k no n b ut r o le n i n the chur ch vv , it is p bab that whe bu ldi g ,

‘ Consta n ti n e a ssig n e d t o th e pope some of the ediﬁces r ais i t ed n he gard e n s of Ne r o .

as e in th n nlr ed b It w r pair e d e XII c e tury , e a g y Gr eg o ry XI wh en th e holy see r e tur n ed fro m Avig no n Was emb ellished by Julius II an d by Leo X ; e nlarge d by se v eralo th e r P on tiffs an d c ompl e t ed by Cl e m en t VIII an d

l ‘ h Pau V . A SuPet I) buildi n g was add ed t o t e mus eum by Pius VI an d a pi n ac o th e ca by Pius VII ; th e r e ign i n g sover eig n Gr eg o ry XVI has fo u n d e d two n ew mu se um s on e for e s n t h t e fo r e n on e n s . tru ca , e o h r gyptia m um t ff n Th is e e n of e e t . e archit ectur e of th palac , b i g di r

e r o s is d fe c t a s r e a r d s s m m e t r a n d r e u . p i d , e i v e g y y g larity n th e o f on s n n The pri n cipalstair c ase ear statu e C ta ti e , leads to th e sala r egia th e fr es c oes of which r epr esen ti n g d ffe ent s lfa s Wer e in ed b sa an d i r hi torica ct , pa t y Va ri

Zuccari .

THE SIX TINE CHAP EL .

h Buil t in 1 473 b y Sixtu s IV is c ele brate d fo r t e h e n fr escoes of Micha elA n g el o wh o r e pre s en t e d on t e c ili g h e ld the cr eati on of t he World an d su n dry passag e s of t o i n t h e of 20 on s t es tam en t , a w ork ex ecut e d e spac m th n n Witho ut a y assista c e . n e Paul th e s e is o le ed in ee U d r III am art t c mp t , thr an d th th ls men . In th e en e a r e C e year s , e a t j udg t c tr hrist n i th of the os le an d o f e B . Virgi n e midst ap t s a multitud

n els e n the n en of of sai n ts o v e r th ese , a g b ari g i strum ts the pass i on : b elow oth er s soun di n g trump e ts to callthe

( 6 4 Guide ofRome lor in g h as fad e d th ey ar e stillmuch admir ed for their

n d es ig n s a d c o mpo siti o n . n n th m The rooms o n the ﬁrst st ory adj oi i g e mu seu , c lle the o o o on n e oe o n n a d B rgia r ms , c tai fr sc s by Gi va i ’ i d Udin e e o la an d n t o . The , Pi ri d e V ga Pi uricchi mar

t r do m o f . s n the on of the . n y S S e ba tia , visitati B Virgi ,

S . Cathe ri n e i n pr esen c e o f Maximian an d o th er s ar e by Pi n turicchi o who also pai n t e d th e sub j e ct s o f the fourth r oo e e t o th e n a n d m r lativ arts sci e ce s virtu es . The fam o us a n tiqu e pai n ti n g fo u n d o n th e Esquilin e in 1 606 an d call e d No zz e Aldob r an din i is supp ose d t o r e pr esen t th e marriag e o f Pel e u s an d The tis : t he n ymph of an n e o le n th o n i f ri r s ti , was disco ve re d ear e via N m e t a n a in 1 81 0 : the p o rtraits o f ﬁve of t he m ost n ot o ri ou s wo me n o f t he he ro ic tim e s Pa sipha e Scylla Phe dra

M an d C n n a n e in 1 2 yrrha a ac e e r the S . S ebas tia gat 8 8

R GALLE Y O F I NSCR IP T IO NS.

' The r e u n i on an d ar r an ge men t o f thi s collection is due

n t t e a r e n o n th t o Pius VII . O h e righ sid paga , e left

n n o n o n en e li n the c omb . christia i scripti s , f u d g ral y cata s

Th o e ele t o th e o an d e n e s e f rm r r at g ds sacr d mi ist r , t o the e e o s es sole e o en t mp r r magistrat , di rs , mpl ym s , e n e n en t a tr ad e s a nd fu n erals . The oth r a tiqu m o um s r e

on the mo sa rco phagi fu n eralaltars ci n e rary ur n s . Am g e e o f Ne n e n umen t s ar e a marbl e n iche with mbl ms ptu , foun d at To di disco v e r e d in th e pr e t o ria n c amp an d de dicated t o t he g e n ius of t he c en turi a und e r th e con s uls i h n u i Burrhus an d C o mm odus n 1 81 . T e m o um en t o f L c us ’ At imetus r e markable for its b as r eli e fs o f a c u tle r s

llon se e C er ellius t o C e es an d the sh o p : the we , c crat d by r

n on of the m o s . Nysmphs , sev e ralr epr ese tati s ithriac W r hip The christia n i n scripti ons an e i n t e r e sti n g fro m the s bols of the vine the ﬁsh the of No e t he o e ym , , ark d v 1 Eighth day. 65

e r an d s l lo s the on o o th e an cho r , th ites epu chra f rm , chr l gy of con suls i n th e IV an d V c e n turi es : th e fault s o f o rtho i g raphy an d d oubtfulpro n u n ciati on of se v eralle tt ers i n d ca t e the corruption of the lat in la nguage in those tim es.

T HE LIBRARY .

Surpa sses th e o th e r librari es of Italy by t he n umb er o f its greek lati n italia n an d o r ien talma n uscripts and as o m its coll e cti o n of e dition s of t he XV c en tu ry . It w c

e n H n men ced at the Lat ra by pop e S . ilary e cr ea se d by a n l it n d e in n . Nicho la s V, p ac d s pres e t positi o by Sixtu s V

e the se on n n t h oo s a n d n s O v r ca c tai i g e b k ma uscript , ar e fr escoes by su n dry artists an d e trusca n va se s o n o n e

f he n e e n e the o o l s o t ﬁ st is r pre se t d ap the si s of Tripto emu , on no he e an d n a t r Achill s Aj ax playi g at dice . In th e lon g galle ri e s a r e the ma n uscripts an d book s o f the l e o f t he e e o n of t h es of ibrari s l ct r palati e , e duk

U n o o f e en C n of the on an d t tob on i rbi , qu hristi a , Capp i O ,

e o succ essiv ly u n it e d t that o f the Vatica n . The third hallo f the gall e ry t o the le ft con tai n s two

o ls n t h e s e n f . Hi o itu o o se e l tatu s , e o S pp , wh se at is c e b r at ed pa schalcale n dar : t he o the r r e pres en ts Ari stid es of n e ar i e Smyr a a gr eek s o phi s t . N thes e statu es s a c ollc

on f te n n n a n e e ti o u sil s , pai ti gs d o th r o bj ct s us e d by the e i n s an d th n e t o n i n n cl1 ar s r it t arly chr stia e cabi c ta i g t , w en o n s of t he VI e n d o n n s n pa pyru c tury , a j i i g thi cabi et is t hat o f a n ci e n t an d m od er n en gravi n gs collect e d by

a n d th o and Pius VI , at e e n d of the gallery that of cam e s n es in a tiquiti br on z e .

T HE MUSEUNL

h e Witho ut e n te ri n g i n t o a d e tailed d escripti on of t in s lle ion We s ll n um ero us obj e cts of art u n it ed thi c o ct , ha

f n o th o n es n bri e ly tice e m st i t er ti g . 1 6 6 Guide ofRome

Opposit e the fe mal e r e cli n i n g statu e plac ed on a t o o n on th e C s ha le o f the mb , f u d via as ia , is a s r e i f gam es o f th e an d on e in th n en le of Mi circus e a ci t gr eek sty ,

- a e n er v pr e ced e d by a n o th e r divi ni ty . An o th e r drap d ﬁgure o e o e as e e d o n t o i v r a v tiv altar , w r ect , acc rdi g its n scripti on by th e pri e sts of B acchu s t o t h e g od s placed on it . In th e third compartm en t on th e right is a fragm en t

en n on se a on s e o o f l an with g ii ridi g m t rs , b th a ight d e n o h e e e e elga t comp siti on . T e d o ubl h ad e d h rm s is r emar

l n t n n e n n o n n kab e as b e i g h e o ly m o um t k w , u iti n g Bacchu s

n e h o d o n u d r t e f rms o f Zagr e u s an Di ys ius .

‘ In th e gall e ry call e d th e Brac ci o Nu ov o the ﬁrst o bj e ct Worthy of att e n ti on is th e herm es form ed o f a half ﬁg ur e of Me rcury on which ' is an i n scripti o n r elativ e t o t a e l e h e sculpto r Z en o which h s b en il ustrat d by Win The o n e th e s e of D omitian us an k elmann . m saic u d r tatu d Ve ru s r e pre s en ti n g Ulys ses e scapi n g f1 o m Scilla an d th e Sir e n s an d that u n d e r t he Fau n w e r e fou n d in the vici n ity of t h e gat e of S . Se bastia n . The Mi n erva Me dica discov e r e d n ear the supp osed

s m for o o on e t empl e o call ed is ad ired its pr p rti s , drap ry an d it s gen e r ale xpr e ssi on ; It is o n e o f the b est pr ese rv e d

of th os e r e c e iv e d fro m th e a n ci en ts . It is pr o babl e that the

artist has imitat e d the statu e that e xist ed in the Parth en on .

In e n o th e s l s th ce tr e f e gall ry is a ba a tic v a e , highly

ﬁ n ished an d o f e l e ga n t c o mp o siti o n .

he e n n T statu of the Nil e with sixt ee childr e , sym b olic o e n the e e n o f e an d ose ft he sixt e cubits xt t its ris , wh

n is c o v e r ed n a an d n s e t o , pli th with a im ls pla t p culiar that

t In h u riv e r was fo u n d n ear he t e mpl e o f S e rapis . t e fo r a n g le s a r e c ol o ssalmasks of Medusa disc o v e r ed n ear the

\ e m e o f e n an d R o e a n d in th n e o f the he t pl V us m , e ich s . mic yc le ar e ﬁve statu es fr o m t he rui ns of villas n ear Ti

“ Jo an d e r o c llu C ir caei . li , th f Lu u s at

1 6 8 Guide ofRome

The m ost in t e resti n g obj e cts of the ele v en th divi si on

’ ar e busts of Sappho an d of A n t on i n us is th t of l e of th e e t e o f He les a A cibiad s ; tw lf h a statu rcu , th e co mbat of th e Amazons a w o unded gladiator plu ngi ng a dagg e r in th e bre ast o f a lion . In th e frag men t s of the ﬁft een th compartme n t the r oman soldi e rs may b e seen covered with the hamata a kin d of cuira ss an d with th e squamea so called from th eir sc aly fo rm . In the sixt e en th i s th e stat ue of Tiberius fo u n d at V en ; in t he sevent een th the fragm ent o f a has r elief with fo e ele an d s of o nd at a ur wh d car , a bu t Augustus , f u Ostia which fro m its h igh ﬁ n ish is con sid e re d as on e of

“ the ﬁ nes t of the colle cti on . Near the b ustjo f De mo sthen es is n h lo n n e that of Cic e ro agr eei g with t e m eda s f u d at Mag sia. Nea r th e ﬁ n ely drap ed statu e o f Esculapius in the X IX co mpartmen t are th e t o rso o f a C ithar edus of flo

e l er s n n m lan d o wer d a abast , u dry a i a s a mithriac gr up . The chie f obj ect s in th e XX ar e a T ibe riu s fo u n d at

’ Pip er n o an d O ppos it e a sarco phagu s plac ed on a sepul uch r alm on um en t on which a r e sculptur e d ut en sils used in

n h gri n di n g oliv e s and in maki g o il. O n t e le ft a s tatu e of

n f th o n in th e n . Atro p o s o e o e fates , f u d villa Adria a he XXLa d o f o n e o f the e of o In t he a daught rs Ni b e, d a n oth e r of Ve rus admirably e xe cute . A statu e of Silen us an d O pposit e a bust o f I s is . In the ar s of An o n n Ne a lls XXIII e bust t i us , rv , Pa a , n n d u us tus an d o n t h e o o e l T raja a A g , pp sit wa la has r e

‘ o n n os n an d on e li e f of ZE , a g tic divi ity of Mithra .

The an d XXV o e n s on n a en s XXIV c mpartm t c tai V u ,

e o f ld s s f e n e of a Me rcury , a statu C au iu , bu ts o N ptu ,

n t h o n e of us an d smalls e o f Agrippi a e y u g r , Brut a tatu

' ~ e e o- n t Typhon in th gypt r oma s yle . an d C e s ﬁn l e le The XXVI XXVII , a re e y drap d , p ac d d n a o n a quadra n gular altar with ﬁgur es of Apollo an Dia , 1 6 9 Eighth day .

Fo n e an d HO e He le an d Mars and Mercury , rtu p , rcu s le an d e e o n O n m en s of e e en ; p Sylva u s , frag t xc ll t sty x cuti

f At s H e les and n ede . posite are statu e s o y rcu Ga ym R o man l nde In th e XXVIII an d XXIX ar e a ady u r ﬁn s c o the form O f Hyg e ia in p en t elic marbl e a e bu t a s ls e of Ulsses losselh e ad o f A n t o n i n u s Pius , a mal tatu y

f th e Mamilian l. as h e is r e pr e s e n t e d o n th e m edals o fami y n F n s Oppo sit e a r e a fragm en t r epre sen ti n g a da n ci g au ; head

he e of n of o f e n own e of Sabi n a t wif Adria , Isis a C taur cr d

- o with v i n e l e av e s a n d a bacchic h ead in giall o a n tic . H l In th e last compartm e n t ar e a r e cumb e n t ercu es ,

f o on an d t he o e n n o n . two h e rm es , o n e o S l th r u k w

H EMY C IC LE OF T HE BELVE D ERE .

Piu s VII un ite d in these r oom s n um e ro u s egyptia n th e en on ese n e m on um en ts an d casts fro m Parth , pr t d by

n G eo rg e IV ki n g of En gla d . The s e micircular gall ery c on tai n s th e egyptia n mo n ume n ts purcha sed by Pius VII . Ten statu e s of black

e th e e O f lon e s e esen « o » gra n it , e ach with h ad a i s , r pr t Ath r th e in t h en o t h e th e V e n us o f e Gr e k s , e c tr e f e curv is a mummy in its cas e b e twee n two cyn oc e phali sculptur e d

- o n th e an d in sa n d st on e . Ar u d e wall a r e hi roglyphics e pitaphs o n e O f which dat es fro m th e year 1 602 O f t he

s n e r a. Un e the O o e n o s an d n e chri tia d r pp sit wi d w , ra g d in cl os e ts a r e smallst atu e s O f bro n z e woo d a n d st o n e ut en sils o f allsorts us e d in a n ci e n t Egypt an d s e v eral o f e n l n mummies sacr d a imal s . A lth ese O bj e cts w ere fou d

e e s i n t h n f e a in the in latt r tim , e rui s o Th eb s , nd t ombs

f G o ur n ah o n th e an O he o , l eft b k f t Nile .

' Th e r e ig n i n g Po n tili o rd e r e d the r e u n io n in th e s e chamb ers o f allt he e gyptia n mon umen ts e xisti n g in t he l e s of R pub ic mus um om e . G uide ofR ome

MU SEO P IO C LEMENT INO .

Thi s imm en s e mus e um was fo rm ed by p o p es Cle

n I I an d i l m e t X I XIV, but part cular y by Pius VI who n e o s on n t s and t he llof n ls a add e d um r u m um e ha a ima , part lle the llo f the ses t he o n ll O f th e ga ry, ha mu , r u d ha , that i n th e o o f e e o Of th e and th f rm a gr k cr ss , that biga e F e e an d e o on s gra n d stair ca se . r o m its archit ctur d c rati it f may con sid er e d as on e of t he m ost Splen dido m od er n Rom e .

SQ UA RE P OR C H.

In t h e cen tre is t he c ele brat e d to r so O f t he Belved er e

i h t ae o . n o n fo u n d n t e herm f Caracalla It is k w , fro m the

e n n th a e n ln n gr e k i scripti o at e b s , that this fragm e t b e o gi g t o e O f He r le the o r of A o on s son O f a statu cu s , is w k p ll iu ,

es o t h n N t r e ath e ian . O f t he o the r m on um en tsin this r oo m the most c ele b r at ed ar e o e o n in th e o of th e o e e l th s f u d t mb Scipi s , s v ra v ery a n ci en t i nscripti on s li n e the walls that o n th e sar C O ph agus shows that it was the t o mb of Scipi o Barbatus 4 o n c on sul in the ye ar O f Ro m e 60 . The bust cr w e d with l e o n the a lth o i O f aurel, plac d t omb w s probab y e p rtra t on e O f t h e Scipi os . In th e r o u n d halla r e fragm en ts Of male an d fe male

e n e e a n d on t he on a n n e n lo ﬁgur s ﬁ ly drap d , balc y a ci t c ck on which ar e mark e d t he cardi n al p o i n ts an d the n am es o f th n i an d n e Wi d s n gr ee k lati .

M C HA BER O F MELEAGER .

SO calle d fro m its c eleb rat ed s tatu e O ver which is an an ci en t i n scripti o n stati n g that Lucius Mummius con sulin the e of R o e 7 e e e the ae n s o o a n d y ar m 60 , d f at d Ach a t k destr oyed Co rin th an d afte r his triumph d edicated the

1 72 G uide ofRome Ne ar th e fourth cabi n e t a r e bas r eli e fs o f He rcul es

n d e t e o e n n a Bacchus with th ir attribu s , Augustus c mm ci g

an d Ro e o n n a sacriﬁc e m acc mpa yi g a victo ri o us e mp e r o r .

H ALL O F T HE ANIMAL S.

In thi s rar e co ll e ction of sculpture d an imals ar e the group s of a mari n e C e n taur an d a Ne r eid He rcules k il ln o o n n n an d n C e e s kil i g G rg , chai i g carryi g away rb ru , li n g the li on Dio me d an d‘ his ho rs e s Comm odus on hor se b a k n eln o s c casti g a jav i , it app ears fr m thi statue that in t he me O f e e o o to o ti that mp r r it was cust mary sh e ho rses . The pav em e n t is c ompose d o f a n tiqu e m osaics r epre lan e le o n a n d e n in a o e e . se t g w f , ag d v uri g a har a tig r

GALLER Y OF ST A T UE S.

The m ost r e markabl e statu e s o f t his galle ry ar e a C lodius Albi n us a half ﬁgur e of Cupid Paris Pallas

e n elo e n o an on th e U n Posidi s P p , Ju , Amaz , mus e ra ia , ppo n n an d Me a d e r .

n t he e o os e ar ean A ollo oln th e le O sid pp it p h di g yr ,

Ne n e oun ed on o o f Es a ptu a w d Ad is , Bacchus , a gr up ula ius a n d H e n n e ese e s ll c p yg ia , a Da aid , Ariad d rt d , u ua y call ed a C l eo pat ra is pla c e d b e twee n two marbl e cha n de lier s fo un d in the villa Ad r ia n a a n d is support e d by a

e e on th e e e of r e r ese n ted th e war p d stal bas r li f which is p i

O f th e gia n ts agai n st the g ods .

H ALL O F BU ST S.

The most est eem ed busts in t hi s c olle ction an e th ose

of D omitia Mammaea s n e Me , Galba , , Lysimachu , Ariad , n elaus e n e n C ll n no s , Val ria , P rti ax , Agrippa , araca a , A ti u an d e S rapis in ba salt . 1 3 Eig hth day . 7

lo s ls e o f e A n iche is o ccupi e d by th e co s a tatu Jupit r at wh os e fee t is th e eagl e graspi n g th e sce ptr e an d thu n

n the o e e o f the ar e O f T n de r b olt . O th r sid hall busts raja

f n A o n e an d an d A n t on i n us Pius , o Sabi a , Brutus , rist pha s Marcus Aur elius ; a se mi - ﬁgur e O f Ap ollo ; a statu e o f Livia an d o n a s ole bl o ck o f marble t wo p ortrait s said t o r e pr esen t Cat o an d P o rcia .

C ABINE T .

Un d e r Pius VI De A n geli s pain t ed on th e c en tre of the e n t h e e O f an d n e an d i n c ili g marriag Bacchus Ariad , n es o ffe n th e e to n n the four a gl Paris ri g appl Ve us , Dia a

a d En on e n an d o n s an d s . O n n dymi , V us Ad is Palla Pari the fri e se a r e r e pre s e n t e d a n tiqu e fe stoo n s an d children t t The th e has r eli e fs allud e o h e lab o urs of He rcules .

f n e n e on O f n f th e s tatu es O Mi rva Ga ym d e , Ad is o e o o O f en an d n are n ie n t o s O f ﬁne h urs , V us Dia a a c w rk c omp o siti on . U n d e r the n iches ar e fo ur p o rphyry b e n ches r esti n g o n o n e o e . Th e e en an n e n os br z supp rt rs pav m t , a ci t m aic

n e on a h f t he es e s o n in t e n . o ﬁ t x cuti , w f u d villa Adria a A

‘ oon o f s n a n d e es fest u dry fruits l av , ti ed with ribbon s , fo rms a circular bo rd e r r ou n d a co mpartm e n t o f whit e e n o n f a ln m osaic cl si g thr e e ﬁgur e s O ma sks , n d a a dscap e

o a ls an d e e with g sh ph rds . In t h e passage leadi n g to th e gall ery is the statu e of

n Faun ‘ aud D n a f a da n ci g , n e ar a s mall ia a a h s r eli ef O

n thr e e co qu e ro rs in athl e tic gam e s . U n d e r the win d ow is the ce l e brat e d alabast e r vas e fo u n d in th e Mausole um of

o h n Augustus supp s e d , fro m t e i scription s tha t lay n ear it , a n d n ow e e e in th e e t o o h pr s rv d gall ry, have c n tai n ed t e

e o f Li villa the e o n ash s , daught r f Germa icus . Guide ofHome

T HE HALL O F T HE MU SE .

Is decorat ed with 1 6 c olum ns O f C arrara marb le with

a h n an tiqu e capit ls fro m t e villa Adria a . The statu es r e pr esen ti n g t he Mus es w e re fo u n d with

f th e e o f ee e in t he llo f ss s the he rm es O Sag s Gr c , vi a Ca iu

e Me o en e n t . ar w e n l s at Tiv oli They lp m , cro d wi h vi e e ave an d h oldi n g the mask a nd sword Thalia with th e tabour a n d o U n th e ele lo e llo c mic mask , ra ia c stia gl b , Ca i pe , P olym n ia t he mus e Of pa n to mim e with he r ha n d s fold e d in h r e . E o her e o the m se O f o e drap ry rat with lyr , Cli u hist ry,

s o e an d E e e Ne the e O f le n r Te rp ich r ut rp . ar statu Si us a e a has relie f of the da n c e of th e Coryba n t e s the h erm e s of

o les E es Esch in es e o e n e s an d n s S oph c , uripid , , D m sth A ti he n es th e t o n o n O f s o n e of the t , ﬁrs p rtrait k w thi f u d r

. cyn ic .sect h s o The v e iled e rm e f A spasia ls plac ed n ear th e bust

e es o e e e in o n s. he e n n of P ricl , b th hav gr k scripti T r mai i g

l s o f a r e h o e o lo n n e pri n cipa bu ts this hall t s f So , Pe ria d r ,

e a Alcibiad es S o crat s Aratu s nd Euripid e s . Th e marble pave m en t i nlaid with s u n dry m osaic ﬁ

n d o a n Lor ium g ur e s of co mic a tragic act rs , w s fou d at (C a st eldi Guido ) 1 2 miles fro m Ro m e ; th e frescoes b y

Con ca allud e to the subj ects un it ed in thi s r oo m .

RO UND HALL .

A v ari ety O f s tatu es and colossalb u st s plac ed o n co the o n e n o f llo n lumn s O f p o rphyry, fo rm r am t this ha r u d which a r e t en larg e marb le pilas ter s whose capitals we re

sculptured by Fra n zon i. ar s O f e d n The pri n cipalbusts e t ho e Jupit r , A ria

la an d e n . Th e s e s A n ti n ou s , S e rapis , Ju i Pia P rti ax tatu u ust us e e s n on n Ne O f He rc ul e s A g C r , A t i us Pius rva

Ju no La n uvin a i n dicat e d b y the g oat ski n a nd shield .

1 7 6 Guide ofRome

es i d e Alcibiad , a r chly rap d fe mal e ﬁgure p e rfo rmi n g a se c r iﬁce of olo o n t he f , Ap l h ldi g lyre , o Phoci o n , a Diosco olOo e b us pi d fro m Myr o n of Ap o llo n iu s a gre e k phil o

o e o f the e o n e n s ph r s c d c tury, a n d of Apollo Saur oct on us or e o e o f th l d str y r e izard .

Of t h e s o arc phagi plac e d at the foo t of e ach n iche on e e n h e r epr s e ts t g e n ius an d the attribute s o f the Mu ses ; ee t he es of the thr gam circus .

T HE FO O LL WI NG GALLERY .

Is divid e d in to six s e cti on s ; t he ﬁrst c on tain i n g mo

umen ts n an d n n , cha deli e r s two tru nk s of tr ee s supp o rti g n es ts o f littl e C upids .

The e on ses s n ele of o o s s c d , va , cup , cha d i rs vari us f rm , an d two sarcophagi alludi n g t o the hist o ry o f Pr o t e silas an d

o an d to th e e h of E ist h us an d Cle n s . La damia , d at g yt m e tra In the third a r e the a n tiquiti es disco v e re d at To r Ma

n e t h r d an a an d o n s n of tatue fr ra n ci o ar e A e w y , c si ti g s s, ag en s o f n n s an d o r e e en n e l m t pai ti g a m saic pr s ti g v eg tab es ,

ﬁsh an d fowl . h on e n e se n d le T e fo urth s e cti is rich d with va s , cha e i r s,

s s e e e o the f le of Cup , tatu s , bas r li fs sarc phagi with ab d h of n an d En n Ni ob e an t e am o urs Dia a dymi o . In the ﬁfth is a n e le ga n t drape d statue of C e r es ; in the last s e cti on ar e m on um en t s an d ma n y rar e ki n d s of

marbl e . In the adj o i n i n g ro o m s ar e the tap estri es of Raphael

and the co lle cti o n of maps form e d by Greg ory XIII.

R OR O MU SE O G EG IAN .

This mu seum has b ee n fo rm ed by th e pr e s en t pop e Gre go ry XVI t o con tai n the n ume ro us m on um e n t s of art

i the n en e of l Tar fo u n d of lat e years n a ci t citi s Vu ci , E h a ig ht d y. 1 7 7

n n C e e Tos n e a n d in o e S o s s e e o e qui , r , ca lla th r p t catt r d v r that part o f a n ci en t Etruria which e xt en ds fr o m t h e Tib e r

e on n e n t o the riv e r Fi o ra . T o th s e m um e ts hav b ee add e d those o f Egypt which we r e hithe rt o in the Capit olor in o th e r public mus e ums .

In t h e e a r e ee e ln n es t o e ﬁrst v stibul thr r c i i g ﬁgur , w

ale o n e o o male a n d o n e fe m , rigi ally plac d ve r t mbs , which ar e r e ma r kabl e by t he o r n am e n ts with which they ar e ad or n e d . ’ The ho rs es heads o f a g o od styl e of sculptur e we re fo u n d o v e r a sepulchrald oo r at Vulci . S e v e ral ci n e rar y ur n s n iad e o f alaba s t e r of Volt erra n an d v o tiv e o ffe ri gs w e r e disc o v e r ed at C e r e . Th e adj o i n i n g r o o m c on tai n s a large sarc o phagu s on which ar e r e pre s e n t ed th e fun e ral rit e s o f th e Etrus ca n s an d urn s fo u n d at C ast e l Ga n d olfo of a styl e similar t o those o f Etruria . Th e w orks in t e rra co tta a r e u n it e d in th e hallo f Me rcury so call e d fro m t he highly ﬁ n ish e d s tatu e of That god fo u n d at Tiv o li . The fo ll owi n g roo m c on tai n s the vase s with black

n e o o n o f h n ﬁgur es o a y ll w gr u d t e m ost a n ci e t style . The vas e of Bacchus particularly admir e d fo r its e x ecuti on h ar e n o t n e n t h t e ﬁgur e s m e re o utli s but pai t e d , e diffe ren t

lo n th e th e n a n d co urs imitati g fl e sh , e v es tm ts acce sso ri es ; the subj e ct r epr es e n t s Me rcury c o n sig n i n g t o Sil e n u s the n n e e n s e e of t he e on s i fa t Bacchus ; thr ymph mbl matic s as ,

o e e e e e in n e ar e el n which f rm rly w r thr umb r , c ebrati g

e n n o with th ir s o gs th e birth o f th e so of J v e . The ch amb e r of Ap oll o is so call e d fro m th e va se in e e o o th high pr s rvati n , r e pr es e n ti n g Ap oll o s eat ed n e tri pod si n gi n g t o the so u n d o f the lyr e ; this ur n is p e rfect b o th fo r its co mpositi on an d its w orkma n ship . I t is plac e d in h a n e es n t e mid s t of se ve ralo thers which r e highly i t r ti g . 1 1 * 1 7 8 Guide ofHome In the hallo f th e bro n zes is t he military statue disco vere d at To di a m on um en t un rivalled as o ffe ri n g a type of the n ati o n alar t the ce le brity of which is en cre ase d by th e e pigraphs e n grav e d o n it t o which vari o us i n t e rpr e ta

In e n ti o n s ha ve b een giv e n . this r oom ar e d o m estic ut sils , di ffe ri n g in form style an d size cha n deli e rs us ed also in the sacred ri tes the tripod a n d cask e t b eautifulbr on zes foun d at Vulci military weap o n s at Bo marzo fragm en ts ' le C h s t he olossal in t h of ﬁgure s larg e r tha n if at iu i , c arm e p o rt of C ivitave cchia : the e trusca n car so si n gular fo r its

d s le the es en h e c orn am en ts an ty , ch t grav e d wit athl ti co mbats ar e worthy of o bse rvation : the walls an d tables a r e co ve r e d with mirr o rs an d i n scripti o n s us e ful in ad

e n In t v an cin g the k n owldge o f the e trusca n la guage . wo

los ar e e o e r ea t n umb e r of e n s l c e ts d p sit d a g small ut ils , ight fragm en ts an d vas es : t h e larg e v e ssels ut e n sils an d arms o n t he l th e e in s e n e e e n on s an d wa ls , mask us d c ic r pr s tati

e h a r n e cr ow n d wit ivy, e ﬁ e ly e x cut ed . The wo rks in gold a r e b e autifulan d ele ga n t whethe r We c on sid e r the i n v e n ti o n t h e fo rm o r the ir state of pr e se rvati on the o rn am e n ts o f me n ar e th e disti n ctiv e sig ns

n e the e s of t h o le of dig iti s , pr mium vict o ry , e gifts f ath tic

t he an d d m r t c ombats , civic triumphal crow n s o f ivy a n i le, t h ol o s th e n o on n th e g d w rk cut with chisel , t ly ma ifest e tas t e o f the artists b ut con v ey an id ea of the sci en tiﬁc

n e f th n n F l se ! i ea k owle dg o e ati o . r o m a lth e obj e ct s an d may b e fo rm ed o f th e rich e s t he ﬂo urishi n g stat e and the d e gre e o f splen d o ur attai n e d by t he Etru sca n s wh en e e o b j e cts o f s uch value w re buri d with the own e rs . t he lof A passag e , wal s which ar e li n ed with e tru sca n ins on s e t o e oo n cripti , l ads a larg r m r o u d which ar e copi es p erfe ctly r e s embli n g th e o rigi n alpain ti n g s e xi s ti n g o n the t ombs of Vulci an d Ta r quin ii m o n um en ts of th e highest t mpor t an ce in the hist ory of n ati on alar t as t hey re present th e p ublic gam es an d ba n qu e ts which t ook place at the

1 80 Guide ofRome

’ lo rds pre par e the shields e ach o f which is di s tin gui shed

a o n o n e o n o n n o by n e mbl e m ; a li , a th e r a bull , o n o th e r s a thr o ne or a bra n ch full of l eav e s ; n ot o n ly d o es thi s va se pr ov e the a n tiquity o f h e raldry but th e ma n tles wo r n by

n e s o e e e e n an d th th e p e rso ag sh w th ir d gr s of ra k , e sam e o r n am e n t s that c o v e r t he m a n tl e of the chi ef app e ar on t hos e o f his att e n da n t . O n o th e r vas e s ar e r e pr e sen t ed the calamities which b efelthe r oyalho u se of JEson an d Pelias ; the lam en ta t i on s o f Le m n o s th e v e n g e a n c e o f Med e a a r e e xpre ss ed in a man n e r di ffe ri n g alt o g e th e r fro m t h e accou n ts o f the g r eek a n d lati n stag e o r fro m t he e pic poe try of tho se n ati on s : th e ha n d of th ese a n ci en t arti sts was guid ed by n arrati on s n ow los t as app ears o n a vas e placed in the c e n tr e of those d e scrib e d o n which the fi n alcatastroph e of th e c o n qu e st o f th e g old e n fl e e ce is e xpre ss ed in a m ode hith erto u n k n own ; Jas on whe n n e arly d e v o ur e d by th e drag on is draw n o ut o f his jaws by Mi ne rva ; t he n am e writt en i n cl e ar purple l e tt e r s n e ar the figur e of the h chi ef leav e s n o d o ubt o n t e subj e ct . Afte r th e arg on autic vas es c om e t hose which r epresen t the e e of He e an d the s e es of on s o d ds rcul s my t ri Di ysiu , f rm i n se es of e ffi lt o e n the d t ons g a ri subj cts di cu t xplai , tra i i and o pi n i o n s o f t he lear n ed be i n g fre qu en tly at varia n ce . A d e sig n o f t he utm o st p e rfe cti on a n d purity of s tyle with a n e xpr e ss i on suit e d t o the s ubj e ct is that of OEdipus in his trav e lli n g dre s s d ee ply m e ditati n g on th e e n igma pro po s e d by t he Sphin x who app ear s on the s ummit o f a ro ck in th os e mix e d fa n tastic fo rms of a li on an d a y o u n g fe male u n d e r which she is re pr esen ted in t he

on e n o f . O n n o e e th e o m um ts art a th r vas artist , with ut

n the e n r egardi g d s ig , ridicul e d this subj e ct by re presen tin g a man with an en o rm o u s h e ad in t he s ame p en siv e attitude i as OEd pus and a monk ey in lie u of the Sphin x . a Eig hth d y . 1 8 1

h ses eli t o th n en s s e s o f eo on T e va r at ve e a ci t y t m th g y , o e s on t o th e l e n e t o t he h m ric d e cripti s , pub ic gam s ba qu ts an d o th e r usag e s o f th ose t im e s o p en a wid e ﬁ eld fo r r e

e e ons th e e a n d e e en e se arch , wh e th r w c id e r b auty xc ll c o f t he e n h in th e n e n e o e n e d sig , whic gym astic sc s ft r ach

e e on or th e e o o n th e o s p rf cti , light th y thr w classic auth r an d o th e r m o n um en ts of a n tiqu ity . In o n e o f the clo set s ar e va s e s of a small e r siz e but highly i n t e resti n g fro m th e vari e ty o f th e ir fo rms an d c a price of i n v e n ti o n particularly in thos e us e d fo r dri n k in g ; so m e hav e the form o f a ram o the rs o f th e humbl e a n im althat carri e d Sil en us the fac e o f an Ethi o pia n a n d of Sil e n u s wh o e xpr e ss e s his j oy on r e ce ivi n g t he gifts o f

lo e lo o n n o an d s s of his discipl e . Thi s c s t a s c tai s b wl s va e o the n e o vari ous f rms o f m os t ﬁ ish d w rkma nship .

T H E EGYP T IAN MU SEUM.

S ev eralstatu e s an d colossalﬁgure s c on t e mpo ra n eous

o t with th e ir pro t yp e s ar e un it ed in this mus eum . The co lossus o f ee n T e a t he l e o f Men e htah qu w , sma l statu p I

the n o f th o n e o seat e d on a thro n e , fragm e t e thr f Rham 5 635 III ar e of th e p e ri o d o f th e dyn as ty that r e ig n e d b e

1 22 a n d 1 474 e o the twe en th e year 8 b f re christia n e r a . With out e n t e ri n g i n to a de tailo f all the m on um en ts r e n th n o n s o o pr ese ti n g e huma f rm , a imal s , va es r th e r oh j ects we shall arr e st o ur att en ti on on the m o st r e markab le ; the two li o n s n e xt t o the c oloss us o f Twee tho ugh th e la st of t he w o rk s e x ecut e d u n d e r t he Phara ohs which ar e k nown to us b e ar t estim on y t o t he tal e n t o f the e gyptia n s lo s e en th e e n e cu pt r v at d cli of that e mpir e . The t o rs o of ki n g Nec tan eb o plac ed in th e hallof li on s is n ot less Worthy o f att en tio n fo r th e b eauty o f its form n or c an we avo id n o tici n g a n o the r t or so in th e sam e hall e esen n on e of th e e i r pr ti g mi n i st er s of stat e , it is ex cuted n alabast e r of Gour n ab . 1 82 G uide ofRome

C o n ti n ui n g our revi ew of this museum we shallﬁn d

n o o f th e e o s e o a n ew, th o ugh i dir e ct , pr f o rr r hith rt o c m mit ted in j udgi n g o f e gyptia n art wh e n it r e pre sen t ed th e

n th l e llo n o t o a o th huma n form . I e arg ha c tigu us th t f e li on s ﬁtt e d -up in t he e gyptia n styl e ar e the m on umen ts o f imitation o r those pr o duce d in Ro m e in th e e gyptian ma n n e r at th e p e ri od o f th e e mp er o rs th e gr e at e r part

l n l. o of which wer e fo un d in th e v ila Adrian a ear Tiv o i T an imitati on o f the w o rk s e x e cut ed u nd e r th e Phara ohs an d with o ut att e mptin g t o co rre ct t he o r igin altast e pr e n n so n en es in E e e s s vaili g duri g ma y c turi gypt , th s arti t add ed the s oft n e ss an d ﬁ n ish which disti n guished t he gr eek

R o e . n e l o e in th e n n s sch o olat m A xamp e is bs erv d A ti o u ,

‘ a s tatu e plac e d in this h allwhich fr o m the b eauty of its

ee n t e e n olo . form has b n am ed by artists , h gyptia Ap lIf imitati on has produc ed a w o rk of s uch m e rit how can we d o ubt of th e p erfe ction which sculptur e had attai n e d in Egypt ? n o t that allegyptia n statu e s c o uld se rv e as mo

e se e ld e se o o E o e ar e l d ls , but v ra isp r d thr ugh ut ur p e qua i h n n he o o f on e r n b eauty t o t e A ti ou s . T w rks imitati r p e s en ti n g a n imals ar e n ot less usefulin judgi n g of e gyptian art ; in co mpari n g thework s of th e Egyptia n a n d R o ma n

th e n o t o h e e n is n ot artist , if fo rm e r is sup e ri r c rtai ly

n e o as th e n i n t he e esen o n o f n ls i f ri r , e gyptia , r pr tati a ima always p o sse ssed th e gr eat est d egree o f skillas is e vide n tly

o th on o n Ne ct ane b o the o o s pr v ed by e li s f ki g , by pr digi u n f l e s e e an d scar ab oei qua tity o v o atil e s quadrup d , r ptil s ab o u n di n g in this muse um whos e r e s e mbla n c e t o n atur e is r h so p e rfe ct that th ey might serv e fo t e study Of n atur alists.\

AR C H I T E C T URE .

In o rder to c omple t e the egyptian colle ction o f th e Vatican of works o f art in its primitiv e s tat e t he on ly mon um en ts wa n tin g wer e th ose of archite cture ; the wo rk s

1 84 G uide ofRome in an d o ds s o f the o e e acts w r (act ap stls chapt r VII) . Such a r e t he r e s ourc e s laid O p en t o th e le arn e d i n this mus e um by ord e r o f t he r e ig n i n g pon ti ff Gre g o ry XVI an d due t o

n e n e to o o e the n e e o f e o his i c ssa t z al pr m t i t r sts r ligi n . He r e the eo o n ﬁn d th e es e o f t he e th l gia will , v tig s primitiv tra ditio n s which pr e c e d e d th e r e v e lati on writt e n by Moses an d t he pr o ph et s ; h e re sacr ed phil olo gy d e riv e s i n forma t ion for th e e xpla n ati o n o f o ri en talbiblicalt e xt s ; how ma n y p oi n ts o f c o n tact e xist b e tw ee n th e cust o ms o f th e t o n o n t he e o e Of God and o f E o w ati s , p pl that gypt wh se hist o ry is so cl o s ely c on n e ct ed what a n ew light is shed on a multitud e o f he br e w idi o ms an d fo r ms o f la n guage arisi n g fro m t he similarity of a gre at n umbe r of s criptural phras e s with the fo rms o f the a n ci en t e gyptia n la n guage

o n pr e se rve d i n th e hi e r glyphic i scripti on s .

the n o f e n To stud e t sacr d writ , it will b e gratifyi g t o se e t he p o rtrait o f Ptole my Philad elphus u n d e r whose

es an d o le o e n was n e en aus pic , d ubt ss pr vid tially , u d rtak

n o f the e o e e n o e e the v e rsi o scriptur s fr m h br w i t gr k ,

n calle d th e se ptuagi n t . Th e civilis e d n ati o s of that tim e we r e thus e n able d t o r ead the s acr ed co d e a n d pr epar e d t o r e ce ive th e ﬁrst glimm eri n gs of th e d octrin es of th e u n ity o f God an d o f the r ed e mpti on which was appr oach ing ; th e statue s o f Pt o l e my an d Arsi no e a r e plac e d n ear that part o f the library which c on tain s the c ele brat ed ma n us cr ipt o f this i n e stimabl e v ersi o n . In the egyptia n m on um ents coll e ct e d in this mu se um f s e an d e a disti n ct hist o ry is traced o culptur architectur , d n we shall now exami n e writi n g an pai n ti g .

WRI T ING .

The primitive stat e of the egyptia n characters is pr ov ed by th e v e stig es . that r e mai n of the e arlie st ki n d s of Writi n g : the ﬁr st was that o f the simple r epr esen tati o n o f 1 8 Eig hth day . 5

lan d on e the id ea the secon d Was at on ce symb o ic ph tic in e t he third the plai n alphab e tic e xpr essi o n a t le ast gr ek n i es an d ro ma n n am es ; the u n ion of th e s e syst e ms co st tut t he b e auty o f the Writi n g call e d hi e roglyphic .

in th e o i o e s The writt e n papyri , som e hi e r glyph c , th r in the hi e ratic an d d e m o tic charact e rs am o u n t t o about thirty two ; thes e li n e the walls of the fourt h r oo m aft er the gall e ry o f muurmie s . In th e ﬁfth a r e disp os ed i n scripti ons r elati n g t o his t o ry an d i n t he l eft a n gl e that of quue n Amen sé illustrate d by R os ellin i n ear wh ich is the pr e ci o us s car ab oeus call e d that o f Me m n on o r Ame n O ph III e n grave d in h o n o ur o f that ki n g t o c el e brat e his marriag e with qu ee n Taia an d

f E e n t he n the happy stat e o gypt at that p ri o d . O fragm e t o f a pilast e r of bro w n st on e is an i n t e re sti n g i n scripti on

n E was o e n e e e in h in dicati g that gypt g v r d by a f mal , t e

o he o n e wa n t o f a mal e he ir t t thr . A valuabl e hist oric m on um e n t in the hallof statu e s is that of a pri e st who s e tu n ic is c o v e re d with a lo n g in s cripti o n purp o rti n g that ﬁve ki n gs had r e ig n e d succ e ssi

e n n n r i Amasis v ly duri g his mi istry : thre e e gyptia Ap es , , amma h er t Ps c i es an d two p ersia n C ambys e s a n d Darius . We shall n o t dw ell on the n um e r o us d e dicato ry an d fu

ln o n o f o m n in n e ala nera i scripti s th e r m o n u e ts gra it ,

e n in bast r , basalt e xisti g this c oll ecti on as s e v e ralhav e n t e n e o t ye b e illustrat d . EThe pur e hi e ro glyphic characte rs ar e pre s e rv e d in the i n scripti on s o n the t wo li on s o f k in g Nec ta n e b o a n d in the s o of r e o f the o e s Pas cht n e Psa m arc phagus a p i st g dd s , am d

m et icus in the of n . In o f t h e on a r e o e , hall ur s that li s th r

e o in o o n th e n f a e III o hi r glyphics pr ﬁl e thr o e o R ms s , th s e on th e co v e r o f t he sarcophagus o f ImOtph in th e gall e ry o f mummi e s an d aro u n d th e sarc o phagus o f Ma n es in the hall of urn s ar e of the m os t el e ga n t e x ecuti on . 1 86 Guide ofHome

O f the i ls f th rd c as o plai n outlines ar e the hier ogly hics on the sc ar ab oei le an d n ls p , amu ts fu era va es . Of the fo ld ln a r urth cal e i ear e t he i n scripti on s on the mummy

. Th e h o cas es ﬁft c mprises those pain t e d as on the m on u en of R ses an d of the d k m ts am X aught e r of Ta ello this . Th n e e gr eat adva tag d e riv ed fro m the k nowledg e o f thes e

e e l on t o on olo an d o charact rs is th ir app icati chr gy hist ry , an d e n r o n h wh e v e t e m o n um en ts of Egyp t any royal is n am e written it is e a sy t o a ssig n the p e ri od t o which i t belo n gs as on e O fi those n am es g e n erally corre sponds to e n h a c rtai dat e. T e Vatica n co lle cti on embraces chrono l l in ogica dat es dicat e d by r oyaln am e s twen ty e igh t in n umb e r acco rdi ng t o the foll owi n g se ri es

1 B n . e oub k a o n e o f the m ost a n ci e n t ki n gs of the d n ho e o th o s XVI y asty w liv d ab ut e time f Abraham . Thi mo n en t was o n d in the o of Gour n ah the n um f u t mbs , am e is e n o n t he n e k le r lr writt c ac o co la .

me n O 2 . A ph I Writt en o n th e mummy case (hallo f ur n s) an d u nle ss this b e t he title o f a divi n ity its dat e

l t he r 1 o wo u d b e yea 832 b ef re C hrist .

4. m n n d 5 . A e se a Amen en hé th e fo rm e r r e ig n i n g e n o f the th l r n d 1 0 que XVIII dy n asty , e att e r he husba , 75 y ears b e fo r e C hri s t .

Th utmes th n o f th ecedin d 5 . IV e ﬁfth ki g e pr g y n asty succ e e de d to his m o the r Ame n se and r e ign ed fro m h 1 49 to 1 2 C . t e ye ar 7 7 7 B .

o e d n e on AmenO h the 6 . 7 . T th sam e y asty b l gs p III e ighth ki n g ; th e sca r ab oeus ab o ve m e n ti on e d b eari n g his ' n am e a nd t hat o f his wife Taia b el o n gs to the y ear 1 690 B .C . he o o o the o s F e t o of ar in T six c l ssi f g dd e s as t , w which e

h lo on t he n h e x t e half li s o th e rs i t e he micycle , wer e e cut ed u n d e r this ki n g .

M n e h tah . h se ossesses in th e e 8. e p I T e mu um p gyp tia n hallan ele ga n t statu e o f thi s ki n g who r e igned fr o m

1 88 Guide ofRome

“ s th 2 1 ; Dariu e s ucc e ssor o f C ambyses.

2 Ne c tan e b o o f th n 2 . e XXIX dy asty thr ee c en turies

an d th f t P o . an d a half B . C . e last o he hara hs To this pe e on t he o on e ar a d r iod b l g tw li s , mast e r pi c e s o f t n th e b eautiful t o rso which repre s e n ts this ki n g . 2 4 . o e e h o e n e 28 e . 3 Pt l my Philad lphus w r ig d y ar s B C .

e in th en e o f th o o n Hi s c ol o ssalstatu is e c tr e hall f li s .

4. n e t o f th o e n e 2 o he e . e n Arsi , wif ab v am d ki g , Who s e statu e is o n th e right o f that o f Pt ole my ; b o th e e n n on o n e statu s b ari g i script i s th ir pilaste rs .

2 o Phi O a to r o n 5 . Pt l e my lp wh s e am e is on t he papyru s n he e o n o he i t d m tic charact e rs , dati g fr m t third year of ° 2 . his e n o r the 1 9 C . N. le E. r ig B XI , tter

n o a n . 26 . Arsi e his sist e r d wife 2 2 . t lo m Ev e r te n 7 . 8 P o e s a d e en his e y g B r ice wif ,

n th e par e n t s o f th e prec e di g .

The n e o o n e n s n ot n lde in the o e um r us m um t , i c u d ab v l n o e n o f the e n o f the o n ist , might fur ish d cum ts r ig s r ma

’ e o e en n e e n e c m e mpe ro rs . The Spac f sixt hu dr d c turi s o pris e d withi n the dat e s which hav e b een alre ady i ndi

n th e on en the e n i c at ed an d i n scribe d o m um ts , auth tic ty ' o f which r e p o s e s on the autho r ity o f hist o ria n s an d obro n le of E e e e on t the ic s , particularly that us bius , r ctiﬁ d

t o e the ee of e arm en ia n e xt far m r e xact that gr k Scalig r , is sufficie n t t o sh o w th e rich mi n e o f hist oricalk n owle dg e

O p en e d by th e e gyptia n writi n g . Its ma t e rial c on struction o ffe rs a larg e ﬁ e ld fo r discussi o n o n the ﬁrst e ssays o f

e n e o n v * writi n g as a n art , Whil it fur ish s als a m ea s of ad

n o v an c in g the pr ogr e ss of ori e ta l phil olgy .

PAI NT I NG . Altho ugh in re m o t e tim e s pai n ti n g was n ot disti n ct

a l e n t a e e e n E fro m Writi n g s s e ve ra argum s tt st r sp cti g gypt , We shall c on sid e r th e m as i n d e p e n d e n t of e ach othe r in

n a th e m on um en ts o f that co u n try . Pai n ti g as it w s thirty 1 89 Eig hth dag .

lS e a o r fo rty c e n turi es ago e xists in its o rigi n a tat nd ex

h n n o f in E lo n e cit es s ur pr ise . W e j udgi g this art gypt a l wa c must b e mad e for the harsh n ess o f th e li n e s an d t he wa n t

he l of th e n e n on a n d th e S i of p e r sp e ctiv e . T faci ity i v ti s p rite d comp o sitio n ar e the striki n g p o i n t s o f th e s e m on u

n e le o f e e een in th e n n o n t he m en ts . A xamp th s is s pai ti g cas e place d in the hallo f urn s in which was pr ese rv ed

o f Gio tmut the o e o f C o n H e o th e mummy , m th r h s i r gram h e mat e us o f Amm on at Theb e s ; on e sid e r e pr e s en ts t fu n e ralpr o c e ssi o n m o vi n g t owards the Theba n n e cro

t e e Six o f th e o s p o lis; on the o th er he d e c as d supplicat es g d , in ord e r t o o btai n a fre e passag e t o the c e l e stialr egi on s ; these h e has ﬁ n ally att ai n e d as r e pr e s en te d in th e i n t e ri o r f the s in o m an f his o e o e in sc r i part o ca e , c p y p m th r wh s p Th olo ti on is on on e o f th e pai n ti n gs of th e i n t e rio r . e c ur in g an d the vari o us sc en es p ossess a high d e gre e o f i n t e

n r est . It was an e stablish e d do ctri n e am on gst t he Egyptia s that t he s o uls o f the just e n j o y ed an u n alte rabl e r e p os e

e n in e n f the o in e wh they arriv e d pr s e ce o g ds , but a stat o f u n c e rtai n ty th ey b eli e ve d that assista n c e might b e de rive d fr o m th e r e m e mbra n ce o f t he livi n g ; fo r this r e ason t he m o th e r is se at e d n e ar he r so n e xpr e ssi ng j oy at the offe n a n d m e e r em ri gs praye rs o f the s ur v rv g r lativ s , a n a n t o f t he primitiv e t raditi on s o f t he huma n race r e lativ e t o a futur e stat e an d t o th e assista n c e the livi n g may r en d e r t o th e d ead . Each o f th e se r e pr e s e n tatio ns is acc o mpain cd n o o e o with a al g us hi r glyphic i n scriptio n s . Of the pai n ti n gs on w o o d that o f the son o f Tak el lo this is r e ma rkabl e fo r the vivacity o f its c olo uri n g ; th e d ~ ﬁgur e s an vari o us sc e n es which c o v e r t he papyri r e pr e s e n t th e rit e s an d circum sta n c es that pr e c ed e an d fol h e low t judgm en t that O siris is supp o s e d to p ass o n s ouls ; o h n r is t e m ela n ch oly sight wa n ti n g o f t h e pu n ishm e n ts ffe e a d s u r d fr om ﬁr e n th e furi es so accurat ely was the tra diti on preserv ed r elativ e to th e desti n y of so ul s wh en se pa 1 90 G uide ofRome

o the o . The n n on n n s r ate d fr m b dy r e pr e se tati o pai ti g VII , le e III and XI le t o tt r A V V r e at th es e subj ects .

T HE GALLERY OF PAINT INGS.

Con tai ns se v eralmast er pie c e s o f art un ited in thi s

f h in n o galle ry by o rd e r o t e re ig n g p o tiff Gr e g ry XVI . ‘ a Th e po rtrait o f a ve n it i n do g e is by T itia n . e o th a The miracle p erfo rm ed b y S . Gr g ry e gre t by

A n dre a Sacchi . The e s e n t o m the os i d c fr cr s by C aravagg o.

o n o . The visi f S Ro muald by Sacchi .

n o e . Commu i o n o f S . Je r m by Do m en ichin o d E Martyr o m of S . rasmu s by Po ussi n .

. o c e s an d Mar tin ian SS Pr ssu by Valen tin .

h s in t he o n n C ri t t mb by Ma t e g a .

The . n . T o s an d e e b i o . B Virgi , S h ma S . J r o m y Gu d

M n . agdal e , S Tho mas by Gu e rci n o .

M do m e f . e o artyr o S P t r by Guid .

o on o n h n n i o . C r ati o f t e B . Virgi b y Pi tur cchi n R esurre cti on of Chri s t : Birth o f Christ by Perugi o . n n : The T ra sﬁgurati o n : C o r on ati o n o f t he B . Virgi t hree myst e ri e s viz the An n u n ciation Nativity an d Pre c u a o n R s t ti by apha el. O ur io o e o Sav ur by C rr ggi .

Th n . n F n s n on e B . Virgi SS Se bastia ra ci A th y e n P t e r Ambro se a n d C athe ri e by T itia n .

e o o o. B . Miche li n a of P sar by Barr cci

He en e o n e e . S . l by Paul V r s

lo . he n d . ose b G of T B . Virgi , chil S J ph y ar a n e l Mad onn a of Fo lig o by Rapha . e La n d scap e with a n imals by Po tt r .

n an d o e s b e n o . Mad o n n a S . Laure ce th r y P rugi

o o f i n elo F eso le . Miracl e o f S . Nich las Bar by A g da i A n n u n ciati o n by Barr occi o .

1 92 G ui de ofRome th e right So crat es and Alcibiade s ; Dio gen es holdin g a book is on th e s e con d st ep Pythago ra s surr o u n d e d by his dis c iples at th e e n d on th e right . To so m e o f the ﬁgur e s th e artist has giv e n the por o f e on e o f me : edes n e traits p rs ag s his ti Archim is Brama t , t he you n g man with his ha n d on his bre as t th e duk e of U n o th e o n e n ee n the e of M n th e two rbi , k li g duk a tua , on the le ft o f Zo roa st e r ar e Pietro Pe rugi no an d Rapha el th e latt e r w eari n g a black cap . Opposit e thi s pai n ti n g is the disput e on the holy Se

n . Th . T n .t h e n an d . o n cram e t e B ri ity , Virgi S J h Bap t ist o ccupy t he uppe r part ; at t h e sid e s o f th e altar are the fo ur d oct o rs of the lati n church se ve ral of the fathe rs an d ma n y sai n t s of th e old and n ew t es tam en t di sputin g

on thi s pro fo u n d myst e ry . In t he n n o f n ss s ollo in the ds f pai ti g Par a u , Ap mi t o

h n n M s l n o n t n . o n t t e i e us e , is p ayi g h e vi oli Ar u d h e

o n n a r e se e n e n an d o e n o Ho e m u tai v ral a ci t m d r p e ts m r , Ho race VirgilO vid En n iu s Sapph o Prop ertius

o an d San n Da n te Bocacci azar o . O v er th e wi n d ow Jurisprud en c e is r epr ese n t ed as as sist e d by Prud en c e Fo rtitud e an d Te mp e ra n ce ; o n the sid e s a r e two hist o ricals ubj ects ; the e mp e ro r Jus ti n ia n delive ri n g t h e dig e st t o Tr e b on ia n : Gregory IX the de

c r tals t o o n ci r a e a c sto i ladvo cat e .

Th e e n e n In t he en e c ili g is divid d i n t o n i e subj e cts . c tr a n g els supp o rt t he arms o f the church in t h e r o u n ds ar e

o o e T eo o a n d o . In th e o Phil s phy Justic , h l gy P etry f ur o o n n n a r e e e se n Fo n e t h e n bl g pai ti gs r pr ted rtu , judgm e t o f o o o n a n d Eve b t h e n S l m , Adam t e mpte d y e s rp e t , M ed le o arsyas ﬂay a iv by Ap llo .

C H M R O F A BE H ELIO D ORUS.

liodo r h He us t e e e t of l hilO a to n , pr f c S e e ucus P p r ki g o f r Sy ia , was o rde re d b y th is pri n c e to plu n d e r t h e Eig hth day . 1 9 3

e s l 1 e e o e th e n e r t e mpl e of J ru a e m , 76 y ars b f r christia a .

n for e e G o d t h e e o f Whil e prepari g this sacril g , , at pray r e n n o s n a d the high pri e st O n ias , s t agai st him a h r ema n two a n gels arm ed with whips wh o dr o v e him o ut of the t empl e ; by an a n achro n ism co mm on t o t he pai n t e rs of his t im e Rapha eli n tr o duc e d Julius 1 1 i n t o t he group which d h e pai n t ed ; th e o th e r groups we r e fi n ish e d by Pi e tr o i n Cre m on a a pupilof C o rr eggi o a n d by Juli o R o ma o .

o e e e n e on In the pai n ti n g o pp o site S . Le I is r pr s t d

t o e e n of the H n o e n e n on his way m t Attila ki g u s , wh s i t ti e th o f was t o plu n d e r R o m e . Struck with t rro r at e sight

an d f n in th un sb eat SS . Pe t e r Paul lyi g e air with swords

h d en s t o e e . e , Attila hast r tr at The third fr e sco is t he miracl e of B ol sen a ; a pri es t doub lin g of th e r e al pr e s en ce o f C hrist in th e e ucharis t h as on the o n of n e n oo on which e w p i t c o s crati g , saw bl d

II n the c orp oral . Julius with othe r con t emp orary p er so ag e s

is presen t at t h e mass . S Pe t r e n he n l Th e fo urth r e pre sen t s . e wh t a ge d elive rs

o m n a d o f h him fr his chai s n l e ads him out pris on . T e e ffe s of ar e e e s e n e ct light admirably xpr s d i this pictur , that of t he a n g el in the priso n di ffe ri n g fr o m that of the

s n elo ut of an d o f th m t of am e a g it , that e oon fr o m hat th el e light e d t orch h d by the soldi e r. he o h T chiar scuro of t e c e ili n g is by Rapha el. The d oldor Caryati es by P y e Caravaggi o .

H O ALL F C O NST ANT I NE .

R el n le th i n of ll apha , havi g c omp et d e d es g s thi s ha c omm en c e d the fr esc o i n t e n d e d t o re pre s en t t he v ict ory o f C on sta n ti n e o v e r Maxe n t ius n ear the Milvian bridg e an d had ﬁ n ish ed th e late ral ﬁgure s o f Justice an d B en ig n ity en his e wh arthly caree r was closed . 1 9 4 Guide ofHome

Aft e r his d e ath Juli o R oma n o was charged by Cle men t VII with the ex e cution of th e work an d pain t e d the

n appariti on of t h e cr o ss t o C o sta n ti n e . In th e fresco O pposit e C onstan ti n e is bapti sed by p op e

the n n ilF o e . S . Silv e st e r ; pai ti g is by att r

e e en th e n o s delo e e sen e B tw wi d w C ll has r pre t d , th e n of R elt he on fro m cart oo s apha , d ati on of Ro me t o

le e C on s n n e . S . Si v st r by ta ti Th e e ight p on ti ffs on the sid es of these pai n ti n g s ar e o by Giuli o R o man o th e chiaroscur by Caravaggi o . The

a t c e ili n g by L ur et ti the o the r s ubj e cts by he t wo Zuccari . O n th e groun d fl o or of the palac e is th e ma n ufactory of m osaics c on tain i n g upwards of t en thousa n d en amels

ffe e of di r n t c ol ours . The gard e n s of the palac e c omm en c ed un d e r Ni cholas V w ere e nlarg e d by Braman t e u n d e r Julius II . In n of th n n n le a ich e e pri cipal fron t is a larg e bro ze pi e app ,

th n I a d r foun d at e Pa theo n . The villa built by Pius V n e s tor e d u n d e r Leo XII c on tai n s pai n ti n gs by Barocci o an d

Zuccari .

FROM MONT E MARI O .

O n which is a villa b elon gi ng t o t he Falconieri fa

lth e e e es Ro e an d th e n . mi y, vi w mbrac m campag a h o e of M e The villa Madama form e rly t e pr p rty argar t,

e of Char les an d n o of the n of N es daught r V, w ki g apl Was co mm en ced on the d e sign s of Rapha elan d ﬁ n ished afte r his d eath by Giulio R oma n o who with the a ssi sta n ce ’ of Giovan n i U n e n e t he o o the ese an d _ d di pai t d p rtic fri ar n a ce ili n g of the pr i n cipalhall. These Wor ks e i stat e of decay .

Aqueducts.

A Q UA PA O LINA .

The c on structi on of thi s aqu educt was comm en ce d an d o le e l o f th e o e e c mp t d by Pau V , B rgh s family , wh o

on e e on t o Gio . Fon n An an c ie n t a ue c ﬁd d its x e cuti ta a . q

T n as o n o s fo r th s duct of raja , w br ught i t u e e pa s ag e o f the

t h e l o n n e 22 m . wat ers fro m ak e f Bra ccia o , a di sta c o f iles

An n s o th e e s n o e cre a e , fr m sam lak e , wa i tr duced by

le e n n o n e Le XII o h e C m t X , a th e r u d r o , fr m t Straccia

an d l i capp e A seat n e lak es . These wat e rs u n ite o n the Ja n iculum wher e th ey di h n vid e i n to two bra n che s ; o ne d e sc en d s t owards t e Vatica ,

th e o nd . h n T s e e e b rg o a piazza S Pi e tro t e oth e r i to ra t v r , aft e r havi n g le ft a v o lum e of 1 80 i n ch es at th e Pa oli n a e fo un tai n . A body of 282 i n ch es pa sses through the pon t Sisto t o the f oun tai n an d th en c e di sper ses i t se lf in the ia lan d v Giu ia vici n ity . The Pa o li n a furn ish es 4709 i n ch es or cubic e e m tre s very twen ty fo ur ho urs . The t e e e s if n e o l ese n hr aqu duct , u it d , w u d pr t a len o f 2 e n le es gth m e tres , e qualto 7 fr ch agu ; the v olum e of wate r with which they supply Ro m e am o u n ts t o 9025 i n ches or cubic metr es eve ry e n o o tw ty f ur h urs . It is justly ob se rv e d in th e Library o f en tertai n i n g k now

' c h or of e n l. . 269 z o f t e s l edg e v o I , p that all W k gyptia

o r t he o f e o e e an d n art , f simplicity th ir f rm , th ir siz u ity , an d t he b e auty o f the ir sculpture d d e co rati on s n on e can b e put in c omparis o n with th e o b elisk s . That as lasti n g

n o e n e an d ls r e c o rds o f thos e a n ci en t m o archs , wh s am s tit e

t o n e o s o l a r e sculp ure d th m , th ey p ss e s a high hist ri ca n th o of th valu e , which is e creas e d by e fact that s m e e m ost re markabl e o f th es e v e n e rabl e m on um en ts n owad or n

he t he Ro man capital . T C aesars s ee m to hav e vi ed with on e a n o the r in tra n sp o rti n g the s e e n o rm o us bl ock s fro m the ir n e o an d s n t he e lo f t he of n ativ s il , i ce r viva study a tiquiti e s i n R om e s e ve ral of he r e nlight en ed p o n tiffs a n d particularly Sixtus V an d Pius VI have agai n e r e ct e d th ose which had

do n an d e n n t n e n » fallen w , w er lyi g o h e gr o u d in fragm t s Th e ob e lisk s We re e rect ed by the egy tia n ki n gs b e

o e t h on e o f e o n f r e c qu st th ir c u try by C ambys e s of Pe r sia . As th e ir e xampl e was foll owe d by the Ptole mi e s an d R oma n s these m on um en ts b el on g t o thr e e diﬁe r en t

e o . The F n n e n an d Mon C ito rio ob e p chs lami ia , Lat ra te lisks a r e ack n owl edg ed fro m their desig n s an d i n scripti on s

t o b e o f t he e o o f th ﬁrst p ch , that e Phara ohs . We shallproce ed t o give a bri e f d escripti on of th e twelve obelisk s o f di ffe ren t dim en si ons which n ow d ec o

rat e th e city .

T F M N N IIE LA I IA O BELI SK .

Is situat ed in th e c en tre o f the piazza de lP o p olo : this o el 74 ee b isk is f t high , exclu s ive ly o f its p ed estalit is o e e i c v r d w th hi eroglyphic s . It was origi n ally e rected at 1 9 8 Obelisks .

H elo ols in o E Rhamses III r th i p i L wer gypt by , o e great e o s as e o o n of t he e le o f th n S s tris , a d c rati t mp e Su to a he n e o f s Who m it w s d edicat ed . T am thi m on arch r e peated se v e raltim es in th e carto uch es pro v e s the e xact n e ss of Ammia n us Marc elli n us who has i n s ert e d in his

h n Writi n gs a part of t e i n scripti on s tra slat ed by He r mapion . the f an d t h e on es of E Afte r battl e o Actium c qu t gypt , Augu stu s tran sp ort e d thi s o be lisk t o Rom e an d plac e d it

in the s s . In 1 5 87 n e e circu maximu Sixtus V tra sf rr d it , o o e n n o t o its esen osi on th ugh br k i t three parts pr t p ti , e e F wh r it was e r e cted by Do m enic o on ta n a .

O BELI SK AT MO NT E C ITORIO .

T is o el e e He lo ol Psammeti s h b isk r ct ed at i p is by cu I ,

n o f E is n le e d n th ki g gypt , Whos e n am e fre qu e t y r p at e i e hie r o glyphics was br o ught t o R om e by Augustu s who placed it in t h e campus martius wh e r e it s erv e d as a I in 4 a sun dial. It was fo un d u n d e r B e n edict X V 1 7 8 nd l i of p ac ed n its pres e n t p o siti on i n the XVIII y ear Pius VI . It is of r ed gra n it e an d is 68 fee t high e xclu s iv ely of the

n m ode r p e d e stalwhich is 1 3 . alle The s culptur es on th e west sid e ar e n early ra sed . B en eath th e ba se o f the pyramidalt op we hav e t he en cr own e d hawk a pair on e ach side , with a serp t e n e T e ar onlt wo va b hi d ach attached t o a globe . h re e y r ie ties o f o n a m n th aen o en an d cart uches , o n e c o t i g e pr m

. h t e o the r th e n am e . n n o f t t o is S n O a th e r face o h e pyramidal p a phi x , h witho ut a b eard r e cli n i n g on an altar . O n t e so uth face ’ th e o d Ré t he sun th e e is se e g , , with hawk s h ad at d

n n n th e e s e is opp osit e the re cli i g sphi n x . O a t fac Osiris

T e n lo the O ppo sit e t o th e sam e ﬁgure . h ve rtical a g e f py r amidalfac es c on tai n s th e scarabaeus s ace r with a large

t d e ies of its in s. di sk , alm os t touchi n g wo cur ve e xtr mit w g

2 00 Obelisks.

e t o e n ot e ee 1 2 t ee . marbl el e pha n t . I s height d s xc d ﬁ f t The hi e ro glyphics att e st that it was rais ed by Psamme t ichus II of the n t to Ne th e e o ess XXVI dy as y ith , sam g dd

the n e a as Mi rv a of the Greek s n d Ro man s .

T H E NAVO NA O BELI SK .

Whose he ight is 5 1 fee t was e r e ct e d by Bern i n i u n d e r I nno ce n t X o n th e t op o f a ro ck which is ab o ut 41 feet o e the e o h o n in th e s ab v l ve l f t e s oil. I t was f u d circu ,

o on l lle f e on th e of . Se c mm y ca d o Caracalla , b y d e gat S

n an d e is o ed bastia , was o rigi n ally d edicat d as pr v by th e hi eroglyphics t o t he e mp e ro r D o mitia n .

T HE VA T I CAN O BELI SK .

Of sien e gra n ite is said t o hav e b een raise d at He liopolis by Nun c o r eus son of Ses o stri s an d was bro ught to R o m e -b y C aligula who plac e d i t in his circu s n ear th e

n e e it e n n llth e i Vatica Wh r r mai e d u n t o uch e d , duri g a v cissitudes o f the city ; in the ye ar 1 5 86 it was e re ct ed on the Sp o t it n ow o ccupi es u n d e r Sixtu s V b y his architect

e n F n n Dom ic o o ta a . It is Witho ut hi e roglyphics ; is 72 fee t high 8 fee t 4 in ch es in its larg es t diam eter an d 1 26 fee t high from the gr ou n d t o th e cr oss . O n it s bas e is e n grave d an in scription purpor tin g t hat it was d edicat e d by C aligula t o Augu stu s an d Tibe rius.

M M O OBELI SKS AT S. AR IA AGGI RE AND AT MO NT E C AVALL O .

These ob elisks w e r e brought to R o m e by the emp eror C laudius Who place d th e m b efore the mausoleum of Au r as e e d i s un der the gustus. The forme w r cte by S xtu V, Obelisks . 20 1

Fon n the le b i s . T e ar e dire cti on o f D . ta a , att r y P u VI h y

d n e e o l s an d 43 ee . of r e gra it , with out hi r g yphic f t high

PINC IAN O BELI SK .

Th e hi er oglyphics of this ob e lisk presen t an e ulogium

f n n o s th e o e of n . was o n in the o A ti u , fav rit Adria It f u d circu s of Aure lia n b eyon d the p orta Maggi or e in the tim e

an d i e on th e n n llin 1 23 of Urba n VIII , was ra s d Pi cia hi 8

t e t in 2 e o th e e . u n d e r Pius VI I . I s h igh 8 f et with ut p ed stal The o b elisk of th e villa Matte i was di sco ve r e d n ear

t e of an d e s t he e lon e u t he e mpl Isis S rapi , upp r part a e is

the e o s on t he lo e ar e an on . tiqu e, hi r glyphic w r part imitati Th e e of the s e n e n e t he m e lof quarri s y gra it , at ria

t he e n o e e e e e en o the which th ba b lisks w r mad , xt d fr m

sln of lae lon t h o e ln e of th e s t he i a d Phi a g e wh l i cataract , n orthern p oi n t of El epha n ti n e fo rmin g their limit in that dire cti on . This r ed gra n it e is kn own by its b eautifulc olour a n d owi n g to its hard n ess it r ece ives the ﬁn e p oli sh e hs e r e vahlo n th e r o ma n o b elisk s . EEEIEIIEB ARY

o n T H E E NV I R O NS .

As the en viron s of Rom e e xcit e i n t erest fro m the b e auty

on t he sso on s o f o an d th e r of the ir situati , a ciati hist ry , e mai ns o f t h e ir a n tiqu e m on um en ts a sh or t d escripti on is giv en of the pri n cipalplaces viz : Tivoli Palestri na Fra scati Albano an d Ve ii .

O ROAD TO T IV LI .

Abo ut a mil e fro m t h e porta S . Lor en zo is the b a silic e e o f that n am e which has alr ady b en d escrib ed . t t he o e th e n o n o le T r on A f urth mil is A i wcal d eve e ,

se e o the n e t e o an d which parat s Latium fr m Sabi rrit ry , th T e n t he i n i 3 e s un it e s with e ib r ear Salar a br dg e , mil

fr o m th e city . At t he t e n th mil e ar e s e en r e mai n s of the Tib urti n e

a o e le th e o he n o of l ol W y , f rm d ik t r r oma r ads arge p y

g on albl o cks of ba saltic lava . t h e 1 th an a Ab out c mil e is e tartaro u s lake , p p ellati on d erive d fro m th e quality of i ts tartar o u s an d cal

c ar eous wat er s which p etrify v eg e tables .

SO LFA T ARA BRI D GE .

The Wat e rs that pass un d er this little bridg e are of a l b uish colo ur an d e xhale a s tron g sulphureous sm ell. These

e s le alb ulae s wat r cal d by Strab o , Pausa n ia an d Martial

e o e o l o th o issu fr m a lak , ab ut a mi e fr m e r ad , Which Was o e l le in th e esen its ave f rm r y a mi circuit , but at pr t day

Itiner ar y ofthe envir ons.

T HE GREE K THEATRE .

Which is the b est pr eserv e d of the three that exist ed here ; we may s tilltrace a part of the scen a the corridors h and the plac e Of t e s t e ps . A n n ex e d t o t he th eatr e on th e west ar e r e main s of a o a t larg e square c urt which w s surr o u n d e d Wi h p ortic os . N th o e n o o f n n su str ear e m d r h use , built a ci e t b uc

n i on t h h a e oes and ti o s , s a passage e r oof of whic r stucc

pain ti ngs of e xqui site tast e .

PIECILE.

Pau sa n ia s in fo rm s us that the paecile o f Ath en s was a p ortico d e corat e d with pai n ti ng s r e lative t o Ath en ia n ex Th e o o of th as an O on llel ploits. p rtic e villa W bl g para n h logram i t e c e n tre of which was a larg e c o urt . A Wall s e e r o o f s s stillen tire , which wa b tw e n a d o ubl e w pila t er ,

n e e Was probably pai t d lik t he buildi n g s at Ath en s . To t he s outh of this wall is what is call ed th e t e mple t o t o e e en ln o and o f th e s ics , said hav b i ed with p rphyry, furthe r o n is a ro u n d e diﬁc e with a m osaic pav e m ent r e pre s e n ti n g sea m on st e rs this plac e was u sed for e xe rcises i n swimmi n g . r To th e l e ft a e th e rui n s of the library . Th e imp e rial palac e situat ed o n an e le vati on is com

o f n h n f oo ar e e lr e p sed O two sto ri e s . O t e gr o u d l r sev ra f n n th o l e adr n mai n s o pai ti gs , on e upp e r s t ry is a arg qu a gular p ortico c o mmu n icati n g with th e palac e . An umbe r of r ooms calle d th e c e n to camer elle serve d

o a r n d h ex f rm erly s barracks fo the pre t oria guar s . On t e t er ior e e e es es n on ls e s or oln s the w r gall ri r ti g pi a t r c um ; . c o mmu n icati on with e ach roo m was by m e ans of the gal l h e as in t e on he esen . ry , c vents of t pr t day Itinerar y of the envir ons.

C ANOPE .

o a le o the of C n o e in Thi s buildi n g , s c l d fr m city a p loo an d o n n e e o f e e e Egypt , c tai ed a t mpl S rapis s v ra r ms

a pai n t ed gall e ry ar e still vi sibl e .

' h an d o f a O n th e right a r e re m a i n s o f t e acad emy

h o s e n eo o do s o n r ec theatr e . T e f ur ubt rra us c rri r , f rmi g a

O f th e n e n a e on s . In t he n t a ngl e , were a part i f r l r gi vici ity

el the e o f Te e an d t he e ne . w ere the e lys ia n ﬁ ds , vall y mp P us

T IVOLI .

th e o n a on of e Thi s t ow n , f u d ti which is attribut d

‘ o r a an d C a tillus o f o 462 t o Tibur , C x Arg s , was built h f th o years b efo re R om e aft e r t e expulsi o n o e Siculi fr m t he t errit o ri e s which they th e n o ccupi ed . I t was call ed t h n e e t Tibur from th e n am e O f e Argea chi f, was alli d wi h ,

to th e R o n in t he e a though s o m e tim es o pp o s e d , ma s rly tim es o f th e r e public ; s ubsequ en tly u n d er th e Roma n s it

.was a mu n icipalt own .

T EMPLE OF VE STA .

Thi s an cie n t ediﬁce of a ﬁn e style of archit e ctur e is

} a O f a circular form 1 2 if . fe e t in diam et e r ; its c olum n s r e 1 8 fee t in h e ight witho ut the capitalwhich is o r n am en t e d

e h I n 1 n with leav s Of t e aca n thus . t had o rigi ally 8 c olum s

O f the cori n thia n ord er in trav erti n e 1 0 o f which r e mai n .

Its s on n th tO o n the o e a ituati o e p f a r ock , o b rd r Of n

. e en e e is s e . xt siv vall y , highly pictur e qu

' Ad oin in i t th t h T n e j g is e t empl e o f e iburti sibyl ,

lof n n is bui t trave rti e , with four jon ic co lum n s in fro t . I t mo the w church of S Gi orgio . 2 6 o . e 0 Itiner ar y f th envir ons. O pp osit e thes e t e mpl e s is the n ew e missary p erfor rat ed in t he Mon t e C atilfo 294 me tr e s l on g an d 25 bro ad at its m o uth ; th e wat e rs pass thro ugh this cha n n elan d o f th e e o on th e bri n k vall y f rm a b eautiful cascad e . In t h e picture squ e gro tt o o f th e Sir e n s the wat ers

in di sapp e ar fo r a tim e a subt erra n e a n cha n n e l . The gro tt o o f Ne ptu n e si n ce t he d e viati on O f the

- co se of the nio n o lon e e e e an O f w e . ur A , g r r c iv s y supply at r

‘ ' C ASC ATELLE .

e s of th e n o ar e u se in th on o e The str am A i d e ir , c pp r an d o the r wo rks which ar e carrie d o n a t Tivqli an d pr e c ipitat e th e ms elv e s fro m a he ight O f 1 00 fe e t in to t h e e n n o e r e ek s b oun d d ' ith e vall ey b l ow , wi di g v r e w t re s and

o o r e e e f e meadows that pr duce a m st pictu squ f ct .

O o e an d o e n t he e n t o the lle pp sit b rd ri g path l adi g va y , t h e 5 a r e the villa of C atullus church O f . A n t o n i o buil t o n th e rui n s of a villa said t o hav e b el on ge d tO ;Hor ace an d

o n t h e lO f uin tiliol half a mil e furthe r e chap Q o , d edicat ed

n . It n on h e e n o f t t o th e B . Virgi sta ds t r mai s he villa of tilius in e e o lfo n s Q uin Varus which w r f rmer y u d tatu es ,

r colum n s an d a varie tg, O f m osaic s .

n th e A uor ia le th e o o O h C rossi g q , a rivu t at b tt m f t e

le o v an n e n e in oo e e on an d va l y, e r a ci t bridg g d pr s rvati

n oo e n e t e b th e A i o o ve r a w d bridg , h r e turn to Tivoli is y e th e a n ci e n t via Tibur ti n .

‘ VILLA O F MEC fENAS.

‘ Am on g the rui n s it is easy t o disti n guish a large s quare co ur t which was surr o u n d e d . with half co lumns of the d oric o rd e r and ar cade s x c om mun ic a tin g With a pe r o an d o b r o o f e oo n o t tic a d u l e w chamb rs l ki g v e r he vall ey. T ese a r e o e le s n o s ll le h built v r a arg ubt e rra e u ha , ca l d

0 Iti e a o the en o s 2 8 n r r y f vir n .

' This c elebrat ed work r e pr es e n ts su n dry a n imals and

ln e n o e s e n ﬁ e n o n p a ts a t t with s ldi r , gyptia gur s playi g musical i n strum en ts O th e rs o ccupi e d with t h e labo rs o e Of e e ln e e o n e n o f f agricultur . s v ra i t rpr tati s giv this w o nk the m ost probabl e is that t he subj e ct allud e s t o t h e

e e st ab lished in E n e th e e e n s f stivals g gypt u d r Gr k ki g at h th e p e ri od of t e in ij n da tio n o f t he Nil e . Ne ar la C o l on n a e ight mil e s fr o m this t ow n is a l ak e falsely said t o b e t he Regillus wh e re t h e battl e too k pl ac e b e tw e en t he Lati n s a nd Roma n s which d e cide d the fate of Tarqui n . S om e mil es dista n t in th e farm calle d Pan t a uo is the

f lon o e G ab in us n t h n e n lak e o Castig i e , f rm rly , e ar e a ci t

a i in1 2 h o n r e n ar e h city o f G b i discov e red 79 . T e ly mai s t e c ella O f the t e mple of Jun o an d squar e bl ocks O f the local volca n ic st on e which form ed the Walls Of th e cit adek

FRASC A T I .

' Ow es its origi n t o th e d estructio n of Tusculum . by t he R om a n s in 1 1 9 1 the m od er n t own con tai n s n o thi n g

e e t he n e o s in en on s a n d th r markabl , but um r u villas its vir e e on t o th n o a r e n e xcursi e rui s f Tusculum highly i t e r sti n g . The m o st sple n did o f th e s e v illa s ar e t he Aldob r an

n a n d Mon o n e o n n th o e th R di i drag e b lgi g to e B rgh si , e u

ﬁn ella t o th een o f n the C on a n d F lon e . . e qu Sardi ia , ti a c i ri T usculum said t o hav e been fo u nd ed by T el egon u s a son o f U e a n d C e as o e e e n e o f t lyss s irc , w a fav rit r sid c he

‘ e n an R oma n s in th e latte r t im es of th e r public . I el e vat ed

o n ar th e e n e e t a p ositi e r mai s o f a th atr , ba hs , n aqu educt a n d lse s e and o e wal s ; ve ral tatu s , busts th r work s O f ar t

n i n th e on n n e n fo u d e xcavati s att est its a ci e t spl d o ur . Gro tta Fe rrata is a small v illag e with a church in which D o m e n ichi no has r e pr e s en t e d in fre sco s everalacts

f . B ar O S tolomew and S . Nilus who r e tir ed to this sp o t e 9 Itiner a r y of the nvir ons. 2 0

th he n n o e t he - b about e year 1 000 . T pai ti g v r altar is y

A n n ibal e Caracci . M n o o TWO mil es fro m thi s village is ari , f rm e rly C astro moen ium a n a n ci e n t city of Latium m e n ti o n ed by n n n h O f Dio ysius of Halicar assus a n d Pli y . T e church o S . Bar n a b a s p o ss e ss es a pai n ti n g o f the martyrd m o f

a n . S . B i to lo m ew in th e ﬁrst ma n n e r o f Gu erci o That o f

h o n he n o e le ads t o ~ t e h ly Tri ity o n e by G uide . T Alba gat th e Fe i n tii e so a e o the od e o f e ie vall y , c ll d fr m g d ss that n am e wh e r e t he p eopl e O f Latiu m hel d th e ir n ati o n alas se i e o n o n mb les b efor e th ir subjugati by th e R ma s .

C A ST EL GAND O L FO .

ls agr eeably situat e d on t he lak e O f that n am e which in a h e o t f n o . ve ry r e m o t e tim e s , w s e crat r a vo l c a l ts

o i e t 48 fe e . n t h circuit is ab ut s x mils , its d e p h 0 t O e o c ca si on o f an extra o r din ary sw ell o f t he wat e i s 394 y e ars b e o e th e n r a h n en O t f r christia e , t e R o ma s th ccupi ed wi h t h e si eg e o f Ve ii s e n t d e puti e s t o Delphi t o c o n sult the

' oracl e O f the pythia n Ap o ll o who a n swer ed that Veii co uld n ot b e tak e n u n l ess t h e wat e rs of this la k e w e r e r e duc e d H th e 0 th e ir le v e l . avi n g d e cid ed on p e rfo rati n g m o u n tai n th e work was carri ed o n wi th such activity that withi n a

e e o e e h n l is le lon i s y ar th y c mpl t d t e ca a which a mi g , 3 f fe e t wid e and six high . It is chis elled out Of the r ock and has n e e e e an e v r r quir d y r pair .

ALBANO .

Alba Lu n ga is said t o hav e b ee n built ab out 40 0 y eai 5 e o e Ro e A n the son f n as b f r m by sca ius O fE e , b etwe e n t he m ou n tai n an d t he lak e in th e dir e cti o n O f the pr e s en t Pa lazzola was de o e i i it str y d by Tullius Host lus . Duri n g th e se on n o e n the n a c d pu ic War a camp , pr t cti g Appia w y , 2 t o t e I i n r ary ofthe envir ons.

Was e stablish e d o n t h e sit e o f Alba n o which b ecame ' a

n city at the d e cli e o f t h e e mpire .

n th e e f the i O l ft o v a Appia b efo re e n t e ri n g the gat e,

' is e t o mb st r i t o f r n am t s . n tain in r oo a larg p its o en , co g a m

1 1 e e o n a t o f t l g n d 7 wid e . I is co mm on ly call e d the t mb

e f n s e n th e n for Asca iu , but b i g situat e d on gro u ds that m ed th e villa o f P o mp ey it is m or e pr obabl e that it was rais ed by t hat g e n e ral t o r ece iv e t he ashe s of Julia his fe th Wi , e da ughte r O f Caesar ; acc or din g t o Plutarch it was o t he als t o mb o f Po mp ey . Ne ar t he church o f th e Mad on n a d e lla St ella is a n o th e r larg e t o mb rais e d O u a squar e bas e 55 fe e t in circum

fe re n c e . In t he ce n t i e Wa s a p ed e stal s ervi n g as th e base

o f t a e a n d a n It as a s tu at e ch a gl e a r o u n d pyramid . w im a gi n e d that this t o mb had b e e n i a ise d t o th e H o ratii a n d C it e e e e e b u e d uriatii , but is r lat d by Livy that th y w r ri o n t he Sp o t Wh e re th ey fe llb e twe e n t he Lati n a n d Appia n e Ways at a dista n ce O f ab o ut ﬁve mil e s fro m R o m . The archit e ctur e ‘ O f this m o n um e n t is O f a far m o r e r e m o t e pe r iod ; i t was pro bably rais ed t o Aru n s t he son of Po rse n n a who was ki ll ed n e ar this sp o t whe n attacki n g Ar ic ia in the

2 4 o f R o o r 0 o t h n e r a . year 7 m e , 6 6 b e f re e christia A mil e fr o m Alba n o is th e villag e o f Arici n preser v ing th e nam e O f the city built in th e plai n by Arc hil ochus 1 4 o m o f n b e see n 00 y ears b efo r e our e r a . S e its rui s may in . a vi neyard c all e d O r to di m e zzo o n th e via Appi a ; n f ls th ey con si st o f t he cella o f the t e mpl e of Dia a , o wa l o o f t he e mmun icat form ed f irregular bl ocks , missary co n i g with the citad elan d r e mai ns Of baths .

' Y EII.

oo o f Dionysius Halicarn assus O bs erves in the I! b k. his ro ma n a n tiquiti e s : « The third war which he (Ro mulus) sustained was agai n s t a city th en one of the m ost p owerful

Itine o he ir o r ar y f t env ns. presen t s n um erou s fragm en ts of va ses pai n t ed with va rn i sh on a black an d r ed gro un d and Of a v ery ﬁn e clay probably

" o o h e the w rk f t primitive Veians . Of the buildi n gs fo u n d

th e on n an an in e last xcavati s o e d ese rv es O bs e rvati on ,

n o n o l t h n s th e ci e t r ma c lumbarium , ca l ed by e p ea sa t cem e

e o o ose Of t ee o ms o n o n i t ri c mp d hr r o e of which ly s O p en .

‘ It con tai n s severalt o mb s an d fun en ar y in scripti on s ; n ear th e columbarium we r e disco v e r e d t he s tatu e of Tib erius

n o in th e n o f Ge r m an icu g a w Vatica , that s p lms high ,

' m n e n o f h 24 c lumns elon a y busts , fragm ts arc itectur e , o b g

! in t o th g e sam e ediﬁce probably a basilic , n ear whi ch was the o u as s in fo s us i f r m , Vitruviu rm that such was the r

' n r elative p o siti o in th e italia n citie s . It has b een asc e rtai n ed from i n scripti on s that at V e ii the r e was a t e mpl e o f Mar s

" the e o n C o an d o e and fro m xcavati s that ast r P llux , Pi ty e an d the G en ius o f th e city w re hon our e d at Ve ii . In its pri mitiv e s tat e an d b efo r e it s captur e by C a millus th e city must hav e ex t e n d e d t o p on t e S o d o ; an d i n In o e n to s the fo r est n ow co v e rs ts rui s . pr ce di g thi

‘ bridg e a n d b e for e arrivi n g at t he Cr e m e ra th e r e mai n s o f a road which at i n t e rvals is i nte rcept ed by squar e ma sse s o f tuffo i ndicate th e a n ci e n t Walls of the city an d l ead to the C r em era call e d the foss o di Fo r m ello an d foss o delValca ' h e e o n th e e e s e which u n it es with t e Tib r . B y d Cr m ra i th e d o it o e n out o f po n t e So d o , so n am fr m s s lidity b i g cut \ s t he ro ck a work o f the e trusca n Veian . h th With o ut r e tur n i n g to th e i sola it is easy t o r eac e via Cassia at th e O ste ria delfosso after havi n g cross ed t he C r e m era by foll owi n g a di r ection ' t o the w es t n ear the Sp ot a n the whe r e t he lat e e xcavati on s h ve b een mad e . O right of the r e ad ma n y etrusca n tombs ar e seen in the rock in which s mall vase s pai n te d . on a dark ground ar e conti

n ually di scov er ed . I N D E X .

Alban o Amphit eatr e Castr ense A n i o riv er Apartm en t B orgia Aque ducts Arch o f C o n sta n ti n e D olab ella Dru su s G alien us Ja n us quadr ifons Septimius S e ve rus Septimius Sev e rus Titus Ar icia

Bapti stry of C on sta n ti ne Ba silic o f C on sta n tin e

Bridg es S . A n g e lo or fElian

S . Bartholo m ew or Gratia n Milvi o or Molle Palati n e Quattro C api o r Fabrici en Salarian Sixtu s

Sub lician

Vatican Campus Martiu s Sc ele ratu s C apit ol Cast elGa n dolfo 2 1 4 Index .

C hamb ers o f Raphael Ch apel~Sixt in e " r ‘ z Pauli n e , Circu s of Al exan der Severu s C aracalla

Flamin ian Maximus Ro mulu s Sallust Clo aca maxima C ollegi o Ro mano C oloss eum C oloss us of Ne r o C olum n of A n ton in us Pho ca s Traja n n Church Of S . Adria e e o S . Agn s xtra mur s n s z on S . Ag e pia za Na v a i S . Ale x us n e e le F e S . A dr w d l ratt n e ella lle S . A dr w d Va n S . Ap olli are l t h e holy Ap ost es Ar acoeli

n S . Augu sti

S . Barto l om eo

n S . Bibia a C apuchi n

8 . C e cilia e C atin ar i S . C harls via les C o so S . C har via r ’ e n de F n i S . Cath ri a u ar hr so on S. C y g

Church S . Mary Magdale n

S . Mary Maj or n S . Mary on t h e Mi e rva

S . Mary o f the Miracoli

S . Mary d ella Mo rte

S . Mary in Navic ella mMary d e lla Pac e n g Mary at th e Popolo mMary d e lla Scala mMary in Trasp on ti n a mMary in Trast ever e mMary in Via Lata mMary at t he Vittoria

S . Michel e

SS . Ne re us an d Achille us ‘ S . Nicol o di Tolen ti n o C hi esa Nuo va

n S . O o fri o ’ S . Pauls e xtra muro s ’ S . Paul s at the thre e fo u n tain s ’ S . Pe t e rs at Mon to rio ’ S . Pe t e r s at the Vatican ’ S . Pe t e r s in Vi n coli

S . Prassed e

S . Prisca

S . Puden tiana

S . R och th e R otu n da see Pan theon

n S . Sabi a o in u S . Salvat r La ro e n S . S bastia ls e in e S . Si ve t r Capit t h S . Silv est e r at e Quirin al n n do S . St efa o ro to Index .

’ ’ Church of Trinita de Mon ti ’ Tri n ita O f the Pilgrims Curia Host ilia o f P ompey d Fi eld of the Horatii an Curiatii ine Fo u n tai n o f the Acqua Verg o f th e C apitol Felic e Pauli ne of Piazza Navon a of th e Quiri n al of th e T artarugh e o f Tr e vi Forum o f A n ton i n u s O f Augu stu s B oar ium O f C aesar O f Ne rva Olito r ium Palladium R oman Traja n Fra scati Gall eri es Alba n i Barb e ri n i B orghese o f th e Capit ol Chigi C olon n a Corsin i D oria Far n ese Farn es i na

of 5 . Luke 2 1 8 Index.

Galleri es ROSpigliosi Sciarra Spada Vatica n Gard ens o f Sallust s n Gat e Appia or S . Seb astia n Asin ar ia

Cap ena

S . John Lab ican Maggi o re

Ostia o r S . Paul

S . Pa n crazi o Pia of th e Pop olo or Flaminian Por t e se Pren estin a Salaria

S . Spirit o T n r iburti e o S . Lor en zo

G r aecostatis . Gro tta Fe rrata Gro tt o of Eg e ria H ’ 0 5 pitalof S . Micha els t he Isle of the Tib e r

of S . Spirito Ho use of Niccola di R i enzo of Rapha el Ja n u s Q ti adr ifr ons Isla n d of the Tib e r Loggi e of Rapha el Mari n o Me ta Sudans Mon t e Cavallo

Index .

Palace Madama Massimi Matt e i Quiri n al Rospigliosi R usp oli Sciarra S e n at o ri al Spada

T o r lon ia

Vatic an O f V e n ice Vido n i Pale stri n a Pa n the on Piazza C o lo n n a O f the Lat era n Navon a O f Pasqui no of th e Pop olo o f th e Quiri n al o f Spa gn a T raja n Vatica n Port Of R ipa Gra n de

Rip e tta . Port ic o o f O ctavi a Prison Mam e rti n e Tullia n Pyramid o f Caius C estius Ro ck Tarp e ia n Scala Sa n ta Se tt e Sal e

e m lf n T p e o A ton i n us Index .

Te mple of A n t on i n u s an d Fau sti na C o n cord G od R edic ulus F ortun e C apit oli ne Fo rtu n e Virili s H e rcul es Hop e Ju n o Regi n a Jupit e r Ton an s Mi n e rva Medica Ne rva Pie ty R o mulus an d Re m us Ro mulus son O f Maxen tius Ve n u s and Rome V e sta Theatre of Marce llus Pomp ey Therm ae o f Agrippa C aracalla Diocle tian Titu s Tiv oli To mb Of Adria n A ugustus Caius Bibulus C aius C es tius C e cilia Me t ella Plautius (T iv oli) P o mp e y the Scipi os Trophie s o f Marius Vall ey o f Ege ria

Velab r um 2 22 In dex . Via sacra Villa Adria n a (T iv oli) Alba n i Bo rgh es e ’ D Est e (Tiv oli) La n t e Ludovisi Pamphili Doria of t he Quin t ilii Palati n a

F I N I S .

G U I D E

OF NAPLES AND IT S ENV IRONS

C O NT AI NING A DESCRIPTI ON O F THE ANTIQUITI ES

AND INTERESTING CURIO SIT I ES.

PRE C E D E D BY THE JOURNEY FRO MRO ME TO NAPLES BY THE PO NT I NE MA RS HES

AND MONTECASSI NO . FROM THE ITALIAN

V A S I

ME RO 1 8 4 1 .

B Y iti O NAt n i v i E NG L I SH L I B R ARY AND as s ume noon

I AZ Z A n i S A . P P GNA N 79 .

4 Fr om Rome

Ni n e mil e s fr o m Ve ll e tri is a s mallvillage - n amed

C o an n en of m n h ra , a ci t city Latiu i habit e d by t e o a a V lsci . It is r e m rk bl e fo r its Walls c o mp os e d o f larg e bl ocks of st o n e an d th e r e mai n s o f the- t e mples of He r c ule s an d o f C ast o r an d P ollux ; o f th e fo rm er e ight d o ric colum n s of th e v est ibul e still r e mai n ; fro m the o r thog r a h p y o f th e i n scrip t i o n o n th e fri es e it wo uld a ppear that t he e e in the n f n in s r i t mpl was built r e i g o Augustus . A c p t on on t he e e an d t o o n n h i fri s , w c ri thia c olum n s ar e t e on e n of t e t n d ly r mai s h empl e o f C ast o r a P ollux . Eight mil es fro m V e ll e tri b ey on d the r ivule t ' called' the Astur a is

C I ST ERNA.

some n n e n e on s s o was a tiquaria s hav . imagi d that thi p t h t e Tr e s Tab e r n ae m e n ti on e d in the Acts of th e Ap ostl es

e e t he n r e air ed t o m e . the Wh r christia s p e t St Paul , but dista n c e fr o m Ro me is sufﬁci en t t o prov e that this is an e rr o r .

No t o the o is e on e o e far fr m high r ad S rm ta , f rm rly

lon le on n n o e e n s oﬂ ancieut Su m a , a vi lag c tai i g s m r mai fo rtiﬁcati ons . Six m ile s fro m Se r men e t a is S ezz e or~ S e ti a si i t uate d o n a hill o pp osit e t o the P on ti n e mar shes . It s m en ti on ed by Pli n y o n acc o u n t o f a r e v olt o f s om e C ar t ha in ian e n d lfo r th e o f its g slav s , a by Martia quality

n e n n o f an n e n e le o f wi s . I t c on tai s th e r e mai s a ci t t mp Saturn th e e n tra n ce of which is clos e d by rui ns ; it h as howe ve r b e e n asce rtai n e d that th e h e ight ab ov e the

e r oof is ab o ut 1 35 fe t .

and r m e n S e v e n mil e s a half f o S zze is Pip e r o . An i n scripti o n plac e d o v e r th e gat e pr o v e s that th is city Was t he a n ci e n t Pr ive r n n m a o n e of t h e pri n cipal

o n e th e n en o n o f e e are V lscia citi s , but a ci t t w , which th r

i a si e ls dis n . s tillse v e ralr e ma ns , w s tuat ed som mi e ta t 5 " To Naples .

1 T T ORR E TR E P ONT I

‘ Comm en c e th e Po n t in e marsh es which occupy 52 an e xt en t of 24 mil es in l e n gth o f 6 an d som e tim es i

' ' Th o Po m t in a e i ve o P0 in bre adth . e w rd p is d r d fr m m c tia which was a la rge an d p o pul o us to w n l on g , b e for e the fo u n dati on of R o m e an d is supposed to hav e b een situate d o n t h e sp o t n ow c a ll ed Me sa . ' The p o pulati on of this c o un try in tim e s o f a r e m ot e a n tiq uity was s o g le a t t h a t acc o rdi n g t o t h e t esti mon y of Pli n y it o ccupi e d n o l e ss t ha n 23 citi e s in the n umb e r o f which w e r e Sulm on a Se tia Pr ive r n um an d An tium . The en vi ro n s o f th e s e citi es W e r e co v e r e d with n um e rou s c oun t t y ho us e s o ccupyi n g an e xt e n siv e Spac e ; am on gst t he m ost c e l e b r a t e d w et e th o se o f T itus Po mpon ius At

ic us in the n o n s of e o t h n o n t e vir S tia ; f e A t ia family , n e a th e o n n n n o n o f r m u tai call e d A n ti g a o , s m e rui s which nam e d le Gr o tt e delC ampo ar e stillvisibl e , that o f Mec aen as n e ar Pa n t an e llo an d o f Au gustus n e ar

th e e of th e C o nn e s e d o n ow palac lia family , ituat at a sp t

‘ call e d Ma t uti . The wat e r s Which flow on a g en tl e sl0 pe i n t o t he plai n s fo rm e d marsh es Which pre ven t e d cultivati on an d pr oduc e d e xhalati on s in t he s umm e r m o n ths which we r e c o n sid e r e d as t he caus e o f t he bad air e xisti n g e v e n

e n R o e o at n o f 49 mle . T s th at m , alth ugh a dista c e i s hi id e a pr e vailed at th e tim e of Pli n y who says in t he - 3 book c . 5 . 0 b put r idas e xhala tion e s harum paludum v an tum sym phoen ic um R om ae summO per e n oxium vo lun t

» n o n n ulli . The Ro ma n s wer e con sta n tly o cc upi ed in givi n g a dire cti on t o th o s e wat er s a n d in pr e v en ti n g th e ir o v e r

(low e n n l e ost b e l , as th y r e d er ed u h ea thy th ir m autifu

habitations‘ 6 Fr om Home

When A ppius Claudiu s trac ed his road thro ugh t ese es le e n l d es an h marsh g mad ca a s , bri g d privat e ways

n n of in ma y r e mai s which s tille xist . Dur g the War s in which th e Roma n s we r e aft e rward s e n gag e d thi s t er r itor was n e le e the n n ons e o m en an d y g ct d , i u dati r c m ced , 1 5 8 years b efor e t he chris tian er a r e pair s b e cam e n e ar cess y . Thes e wo rks had b e en long n e gl e ct ed when Juli n s Caesar con c eiv ed the m ost; e xt e n si ve proj e cts for the im

o e e nt o f os ln s His n en o n to t n the pr v m th e a d . i t ti was ur m outh of t he Ti b e r in t he directi o n of Te rraci n a thu s to pr oc ur e a n outle t for the wat e rs a n d t o drain the co un . l D io an d e o n e of s e n try P utarch , Su t ius sp ak thi d sig

h a t e e xe cuti o n o f which w s pre v e n t e d by his d eath . Au

s th o f n n n lin gu tus r e sum ed e pr j e ct o drai i g , dug ca a s sea ! di ffe re n t dir e cti on s whic h co mmu n ica t e d with th e .

T n h o ed the es lt raja pave d t e r o ad which cr ss marsh , bui a n d t th ne o f th e Em e t h e bridges ho uses . A e d ecli pir i n u ndatio ns re c o mm e n ced 5 we see b y th e l e tt e rs of Gas

i d u n e T eo o n o f a the s es s o o r s that u d r h d ric , Ki g It ly, mar h were drai ne d by Ba silius Decius an d it appe ar s that t he

n o n o n t s e t exis t o pe rati o n was succe sful . I scri pti s his ubj c at Me sa a n d n ea r t h e C athedral of Te rraci n a . It is said that Bon iface VlllWas the ﬁrs t pop e who u nde rtook the d r ai n i n g o f these marsh es 5 b e dug a larg e

n la n d e e allt he e a of the o n ca a , cl ar d u pp r p rt c u try , b ut th e w at e r s o fth e l owe r parts n ot ha v i n g a su fﬁci e n t s l o p e a n d the ca n als b e i n g by d egre e s ﬁll e d up a n other To M n b e n o t er i n u n datio n t ook plac e . arti V is attri ut d a h ca n al s tille xisti n g calle d Rio Marti n o a wo rk of su b magn itud e that by so me p ers on s it is suppose d to

the n e n an d so le ha ve be en mad e by a ci ts , that it was cal d lon g befo r e the Pon t iﬁcate of Marti n V in In 1 5 85 Sixtus V resum e d th e pr oj e ct o f purify g

the air an d of impr ovin g th e fe rtility o f t he R oman so il.

8 Fr om Home

At the e n d of t he west e rn cap e of the marsh es and th e o o f t h e s a e at m uth A t ra riv r , is a to w e r o f the sam e a n d n am e , a small po rt wh er e C ice r o e mba r k ed for h is o r mian t h e F villa e day he was assassi n at e d . At thi s sam spo t you n g C on radin o Ki n g of Napl es was b e trayed an d arr ested by a Fr ang ipa n i lord of Astur a with who m h ad u e h so gh t r e fug e . Six mil e s fro m As tur a is Ne ttun o s o c alled fr om a t emple of Neptu n e wh e re sa criﬁce s w e r e offe red to

o n a o m btai n a favo rabl e avigati on . A mil e n d a half fr ’ N n o a n 3 o fo r e ttu , d 7 mil es fro m R m e is C apo d a nz o

m e rly An t ium a t own of th e . Vo lsci kn ow n by its wars with th e R o ma n s ; its p ort was d estro y e d by Numic ius in

h a e r i t t e ye ar o f R o m e 284. This plac e w s c e l b at e d by s

m n e n e e o f Fo r t un e o f e n a n d Esc ula ius ag iﬁc t t mpl s , V us p an d by a Villa o f the Emp e r ors in th e rui n s of which seve rals ta t u es have b een fo u n d am on gst o the rs the

o o f th n an d t e Ap o ll e Vatica h e Bo rgh e s gladiato r . The Empero r Ne r o r ebuilt An tium an d e n larged its port ; i t was in a stat e of rum wh en I n n ocen t XII fo rm ed ’ e o m e d z ar llls on n a s all r s cale . At P orto An o e sev era vi a

of th e Ro ma n n o bility . At the we st e rn e xtre mity of the mar sh es is Mon te e lo or e C e en i n o e of o Circ l cap irc , a p sula f rm d a high r ck F e e e e on whi c h is plac e d t h e villag e of S . elic ; he r w r th e lc of C e th e o sun an d th r o n pa a e irc e daught r fth e , e p is s wh e re t he c o mpa n i on s of Ulyss e s Were conﬁne d aft e r

their m e ta mo nphosis .

n di ﬁum Mes and on e Afte r havi g pass e d Bocca e, a P t

th e n e o is Maggi or e , xt p st

T ERRA C INA

e hi i as th e la s t t ow n of the Ro ma n stat . T s c ty w built by t he Volsci an d n am ed Anxur or Axur ; the Greek s call ed 9 To Naples. its e e n it Tr achi n a (st ee p) fro m whic h it d e riv ed pr s t

h n n n xur s e on t he to of the n am e . T e a ci e t A ituat d p hill is W elld escrib e d by Horac e

Imposilum la te sa x i s c a n den tib us Anarur .

a d lo e e n o f a e le o f o o e co n sti l p ss ss e s r mai s t mp Ap ll , d rat ed with ﬂut e d co ri n thia n co lum n s th e asc e n t to th e cathe dral is by se v e ral st e ps divide d i n t o two parts a t t he ﬁrst plac e o f r e p os e is a gra n it e u r n With an in sc r ip tion o n its bas e ; the n av e o f the church is supp o r t e d b y

m t he n o f the six co lum n s o f di ffere n t arbl e s , baldaqui

l o r f e o n the o a co m a tar by f u lut d c lum s , chair , with m s ic

a r t m e n ts ﬁv e o f n e . The c e of Te n p , by gra it limat rraci a is

mild a n d t h e vi ews o f the e n vir on s a r e pictures qu e . The palac e built by Pi us VI an d ma n y o th e r m on um en ts of ’ b v t hat so v e r e ig n s mun iﬁc en ce ar e w o rth y o f o ser a tion . The chai n of m o u n tai n s n ear the ci ty is in a ma n n e r

’ separat e d fr o m th e Ap e nn in e s by t he e xt en siv e valleg ce of r w } th e Sacc o which is ﬁll e d with Spri n gs that issu e fr om

! d a the fo o t of th e m o u n tai n a n f ll i n t o th e marshes . The a n ci en t R o ma n s had villas o n t he hillo f Te rra

h E n a th e ma. That of t e mp er o r Galha was place d e r e

o oe out o f the r o n a r e n eo l gr tt s dug ck , rui s which e rr o us y

n t he at tribut ed t o the palac e of The od or ic . O the t op o f

b illa r n o f th n e n lof An xur of o s e r emai s e a ci t wa ls , t mb ,

a n d r of con s er vato i es o f wat e r . Judgi n g by its r emai n s th e p ort o p e n ed h e re by An t on in us Pius mu s t hav e b ee n co n sid erabl e but its n o w ﬁll e d with sa n d a n d th e se a has r e tir e d the ston e ri n g s inc enandPonte .li e fo r e n e us d s curi g v ss els still exist .

‘ The A n e thro u lf t his t o n ﬁn ppia way pass d g w , a e

e n n th e en f c r m a t , fragm ts o whi h ar e e n cl os e d in a wa

’ e o se e o n n to th C n o n r h u b l gi g e a s , is W e ll pr e s e rv e d . The blo ck s o f st o ne in th e shap e o f irr egular p e n tag o n s a r e j oi n ed with the sam e exact n ess as a wor k o f th e m os t * r ecen t da t e . 1 1 0 Fr om Home

in T ra in for N les Leav g er c a a p we pa ss the guard ho e o ut of th e r o le s ld e n u s , dug ck ik evera e p cav er s alo ng the mo u n tai n . There is als o a s cale of 1 20 divis ions ma n e s e n ed on th rk ed by umb r grav e r ock . ’ Six miles from the t own is a t owe r call ed To rre de ’ C on fin i o r dellE itafio fo n t h p , rmi g e fro n ti e r b e tw ee n Th t he two s tat e s . e road follows the Via Appia which is in a dilapidated stat e ; five miles furthe r on is a s mall t o n on th e n a o n - its n l w Appia w y f rmi g pri cipa stre e t . It was on e o f the o n o f th e Aur nn ci eo le of t w s , a p p Latium ; l d n f n e in Martia , Strabo an Pli y sp eak o its wi s; its n e igh b our hoo d the o o h e e o n to s a is gr tt w r , acc rdi g Tacit u , Sej n us sa v ed the life o f Tib e rius . In th e Domi n ica n con v e n t is the r oo m on ce occu

n e pi e d by S . Tho ma s Aqui n a s a d th hallWhe re h e d eli

he n n v e re d l e cture s o n theol ogy . T e viro s o f Fon di ar e c o e e o n e an d le on ees the le s ls v r d whith ra g m tr , ak upp i e of a vari e ty ﬁsh . This t ow n was n early ruin ed in 1 534 by a Turki sh d e tachm e n t which atte mpte d to carry awayxlulia de Gon

za a o n ess of Fon i ele a e for her b e . g , C u t d , c br t d auty

I TR I

Is la e ill six le o the sea on th e A a rg v age, mi s fr m p pia n way ; it is s upp osed by s om e t o b e the a n ci en t Urbs he s e n ln Mamur n an a m en ti o n e d by Horace . T hill circ i g

l h n e s ees l e l le tri a r e c ov e re d wit vi yard , ﬁg tr , aur , myrt

and the l en tisk o r ma s tic tr ee .

i O n the r igh t of t he r o ad towards Mola is an an cien t t owe r said t o b e t he t o mb of C ic e ro rai sed by his freed a h ed e is men on th e sp ot wher e h e w s killed. T e iﬁc r ou n d and o n a square ba sis ; th e circular part c on sist s of t wo arche d roofs supported in t he c en tre b y a r o u n d ma ss r ese mbli n g a c olum n; n ear this mon um ent is a path lead

1 2 Fr om Rome

O n the to of th e lof e is o er le p , hil Ga ta a t w ca l d ’ To rre d O r lan do t he m os t r e markable m on um en t: of the a place . It appe rs by an i n scription that it was the mauso e of Munatius Plan cus the o n e of l um Lucius , f u d r Lyo n s, who pr e vail ed o n O ctavia n t o pr efe r t h e nam e of Au o us tus to tha t ofRo m ulus which som e of his c our t i e rs wish e d him to ad opt . Thi s maus ol e um was built sixt e en ye ars

th n r n n e n t n n b efo re e christia e a . O a mag iﬁc c olum formi g pa r t o f the m o n um en t a r e en grave d the rhumbs of wi n d

n n an d i n e i lati gr ek . In t h e s uburb o f the t ow n is a t owen called Latri n a suppo sed to have b elon g e d t o a t e mpl e of Me rcury wh er e o racles w e re d e liv e red fro m an ap erture in the form o f a ’ d og s mo n th which circ umsta n c e may hav e given the tem

lh o n o n a o n o . t f. p e e app ellati Latri , fr m Latra d ’ The fo rtr e ss o f Ga e ta built by Al fon so d Ar ago n in 1 440 an d e n larg e d by Fe rdi n a n d an d C harle s V who e u

lo e the o n o n lis o n e o f t he st o n est c s d t w with str g wa ls , r g

n 1 t o on i n e plac e s p f the ki gd o m . In 806 i pp os ed a l g r es sta c to the en in 1 81 5 to t he n oo . fr ch , , Austria , tr ps ’ The body o f th e C o n stabl e de Bo urb o n who was kille d i n 15 27 at the si e ge o f Rom e had lo n g b ee n pr e s erv e d in a r oo m o f th e fortress wher e it r e mai n e d u n tilt he r e ig n of Fe r din an d lwho o rde r e d it to b e buri ed with t he must orn ary hono urs .

. E o of The C ath edralis d e dicat e d t o S ra smus , Bish p on n s ﬁne n n A n ti o chia pr o t e ct or of th e city . I t c tai a pai ti g by Pa ulVe ro n es e and the s ta n dard given by Pius V t o D on J ohn of Austria g en e ralof th e Christia n army agai n st

l e e e fo r its e h . he h lof th t e Turks T e church , r markabl siz an d o n is s to e een esen e the w rkma ship , aid hav b pr t d by

e mper o r F r t dertick Barbarossa . t n the os e e ed of the The church o f h e Tri ity, m t c l brat

r n ear a o o n to o l t ow n, s situat ed r ck which , acc rdi g p pu ar on ln o e s in h on our of the os ol traditi , sp it i t thre part m t h y To a 1 3 Nples.

’ l e blo T r in i the day of o ur saviour s d eath . A arg ckwhich n le o and o e e fellon the pri cipa ap r ture of the r ck st pp d ther , s erv ed as the basis of a chap elo fth e Cruciﬁxi on; the ro ck ‘ a h ela o n whic h is s t n ds isjb eat en by the sea . T e chap w s n no b r e stor ed in 1 5 1 4 by Pi etr o Lusia no of Ga e ta . It ca t e d o ubted after i n sp e cti n g the a n gl es o n each side tha t the n re n t must hav e aris e n fro m s o m e vi ol en t co n vulsi o . The r oad fro m Mola t o Napl e s follo ws th e c oast du n on e e e e it n n o e an d en e o n s it ri g mil , l av s duri g a th r th r j i

c a Th ee ar a a t S av li . r miles fro m this place e r e mai n s o f n am e e e d in s of the n n phith atr , aqu ducts an o ther r u a ci e t

city of Min t ur n ae.

T HE GARIGLIANO

Fo e lthe was t he b o n lne e e en rm r y Liris , u dary i b tw n i s Latium an d Campa ia . This riv e r s cro se d on a bridg e o f H e e the o llo t h b o ats . er w quit Via Appia which f wed e coa s t t o t he m outh of theVQ lt ur n o wh er e the Domitian way

co mm en c ed . The marsh es form ed by th e Gariglia no at thi s spo t llto n t he es o f for tun e of M i e r eca mi d vicissitud ar us , vi to o s in s o n b at tle s se v n s con sulc om elled ri n ma y , e tim e , p to e e e e in o e t o o t e e l o f tak e r fug h r rd r av id h sat l ites Sylla .

E e o m t he ln o is e th n ight mil s fr Garig ia S ss e , e a ci en t Suas se Aur n n cor um on e o f the pri n cipalt own s of the Au n an d le o f -l the r lo t ru ci birth p ac Luci ius , ﬁrst saty ica p e he e n of R ome . T r mai s o f an a n ci e n t bridg e ar e stillcalled n th on e by the i n habita t s e P t Ar un co. E les o the ln is ight mi fr m Garig ia o S . Agatha ; at t he sam e dista nces a re Sparan isi an d

e arns

s ituat ed at a di sta n c e of th ree miles from th e a n ci en t city an d ﬁfteen from Naples occupi es the site o f C asilin um on 1 4 Fr om Rome

n o m i the Voltur twelve miles fr o ts mouth . It is wellfor

n t iﬁed a n d con tai s a stro n g garrison . Strab o says that Capua was buil t by the Tyrrhen ia ns when drive n by the Gauls fro m t he li n e o f the Po 542 e th e n r a O s n y ears b e fo r christia e . the r pre t e d that it e xist ed 300 ye ars prio r t o that e po ch an d that its fou nde r was

s ' on e o f the o n on . of [En e s who e hi Capy , c mpa i s a gav it s n am e whileStrabo ass e rts that thiswas d e riv ed fro m C aput t h b e i n g on e of e capitals of the world . Fl o rus cons ider ed

e C e an d the ee Rom , arthag , Capua as thr ﬁrst cities

' d m i te m x ima s e C apua quon a n r t r es a n um r a t a .

. 1 . 1 lib c 6 . th e Tyrrhen ia n s we re e xpe lle d from C apua by the Sam n i

e the Ro n i n o e t es, the s by ma s Wh s tim e it had acquir e d c ele brity fr o m th e am en ity o f its s ituation the fe rtility an d be auty of th e s urro un di n g c o u n try calle d by Cice r o n R o n o t he ﬁ n e st do mai of tha ma pe pl e . A n n ibalin o rd e r t o bri n g the C apua n s o v e r t o his o e t o e ei th of ltalth party, pr mis d mak th r city e capital y ; e R oma n s havi n g tak en th e plac e afte r a l o n g si e g e t he i n ha

e e o as s es th e sen o e t e b itan t s w r s ld lav ; at rs w d ecapitate d . G en se ric Ki n g o f the Van dals in 455 rui n ed C apua ; i on s llo and th e n me onle n o the r d eva stat fo w ed , a y r mai e d wh en th e n ewt own arose i n 856 . Th e cath e dralis d eco rat e d with gra n it e c olum n s of n h differ en t proportion s tak en fro m a n ci e n t e diﬁce s . I t e t hird chap elt o t h e right is a picture by Solim e n a r e pr e

ir in th e n n e s an d . e en s en ti n g the B . V g with i fa t J su S St ph h s m e a n d o v e r the high altar is an Assumption by t e a ar

n h e s b e n eo in h ar e se e l t ist . I t u t rra us church whic v ra

‘ ﬁn e marbl e colum n s is a half siz ed ﬁgure of the Madon n a

ll e h a n d t f n l e b e n n . d e a Pi t , a Chris o atura siz , y B r i i The church of th e A n n un ciati on has an ext e ri or of the cori n thia n o rd er of ﬁn e archit ecture th e i n t eri or is e lis osed to a ve een an n en t r ichly dec orat d . t supp h b a ci

1 6 Fr om Home of that of Dia n a Lucifer a c alle d Tiph atin a the ab b ey of

n o m ie s the e . Th e n of oun n S . A ge l o o p sit chai m tai s of th e en vir on s o f Capua an d C as e rta is stillc all e d Mon ti Tifatin i a w ord d e riv ed fr o m the v olca no Tifata n ow e xti n ct . Th e di s ta n c e fro m C apua t o Naples is miles or two posts through a highly cultivat ed co un t r y .

AV ERSA

This town is n ot far fr o m the a n cien t At ella c ele b r ated a on the R o n for the e it the m gst ma s r ady w , gaie ty an d th e licen tio us m a n ne rs o f it s i n habita n ts 5 havi n g b een rui n e d by differ e n t i n vad e r s Av e rsa was built in 1 1 30 h o n ho o n e e N e a n d b y t e N rma s w c qu r d apl s C apua . C har ’ les d Anjou ki n g of Napl es d e str oy ed Av e rsa t he in hab i t a n ts havi n g r e v o lt e d at the sugg e stio n of the R e burse

r n family ; it howe v e r r os e agai n f o m its rui s . Th e t ow n is s mall but we ll built an d is sit uat e d in a b eautifulplain at the b e gi n n i n g o f an av e n u e which

t o e o n n o e e a e an d leads Napl s . It c tai s s m chu rch s p lac s e the r fine edifices and o ne of th e first i n stituti o n s of the

n d in E o e an o lfor h e n s n e es ls e b ki ur p , h spita t i a , tab i h d y e e n ar e t he r e sp e ctabl e abbé Lin guili . Th pati t s tr eat ed with t he utm ost huma n ity no r c an gr e at e r i n g e n uity b e

d e vis e d tha n in t he m ea n s e mpl oye d fo r the ir cure . Th ey

a r e t e e e e o n e s h n taugh music , th y x cut c c rt wit a surprizi g on n n e t n e os pr e cisi , a pri ti g s ablishm e t is at th ir disp al ,

grou n ds an d gard en s ar e all o tt ed t o the ir use . The r oad fro m Av e r sa t o Naple s pass es t hr ough m a n y villages t he last of which is Capo di Chi no wher e

the n ewroad co mm en ces which leads to the capital. 1 7 To Naples.

JO URNEY O F H ORAC E

' i As th e study o f the classic -autho r s e xcites an n terest e v e n in th e SpO lS which they i nhabi t e d We trust that we shallm ee t with t he approba tion o f the r ead er in addi n g th e j o ur n ey p e rform e d by Horac e as d escrib ed in the

v satyr 1 b ook . In the y ear 7 1 2 o f R om e o r 41 y ears «b efore the

r n r a M r n o n uilted C eo in ch istia e , a k A th y had q l patra

o r d e r t o O pp os e th e furth e r pr o gr ess o f Octavia n in Italy . Do mitius fEn ob a r b us j o i n e d Ma r k A n tho n y who laid sie g e t o B r un dusium whil e S e xtus Po mp ey O p e rat e d on th e

e aen o lo an d o c c i s to coa st . Mc a s , P li C e u Ne rva r e pair ed B r un dusium to e n te r i n t o tr ea ty when an arra n g e m e n t

.was c oncl ud e d with Octavia n who marri ed his si s te r

n on Octavia to A th y . Ho rac e r ec e ive d ord er s t o atten d Mecaen a s who m he s t o An x r e e r s wa m ee t at u ; he lft R onie with H liodo u .

The o e as r a ﬁrst st ppag w at A ici on the Appian way, e s x een le o h t . Ho ac e s s i t mi s fr m t , ci y r ay Eg r e ssum mag n a me ex es/ailAr icia Roma Hospitia mod zco ; r hetor come s Heliodor us

c m lon é d o i In d F r um A ? Gr ee or u g clssiin us . e o pp m ua l D gﬂ r lu n a s ca upon ib us a t que m a igm s . For um Appi i was abo ut 43 mil es fro m R o m e i n the Pon ti n e marsh es fo u n d ed pr obably by Appius when he mad e his road.

Ho ce e lle b s o s e s o on fo ra trav d y h rt tag , pr bably o t , as was custo mary am on g the Ro ma n s , he pe rhaps alludes n e t o thi s circumsta c .

Hoe i ter i n a vi d wi simus a llius a c n os g , .

fPr ce c in ct rs un um : min us e st r a i A ia r d g v s pp t a is . Fr o m the situatio n o f forum Appi th e wat er co uld n ot b e v ery g ood, our p oe t would not r e m ain even for supp er i 8 Fr om Home

Hie e o r o ter a ua m uod e r a t d ele r r ima v r g , p p q q , en t i ’ ll I n d zco b e um ; cce n a n t e s b a ud a nimo wquo ec t c e Exp a n s omit s . We pass o v e r t he d escripti on o f his j ourn e y thro ugh the marsh e s an d of the bad n ight he pass e d ; he lan d e d

the followi n g m o r n i n g at 4. ua r tz: v ix demum ex on im h q p ur or a .

' ' e lm F er / Or a ma n us u tua a w us om a { a m. , q , , 7 n p

’ Mlli t um r a n si tr ia r e imus a t ue sub mu a p p , q r s m osi um lté r is c d en tib s A x I p t a sa an u n ur .

Hue v e n t ur e s er ! Meccan o s o timus a lue a p , q

Cocc e i us .

The e le th e s ed oo of the o e s Fe r o t mp , acr w d g dd s m r nia w e r e 3 mil es fr o An xu or 69 fr o m R om e . Fr o m An xur Ho rac e Wen t t o Fo n di whe re the judg e f th se in le o b es o o e villag e dres d p urp r , re ce ive d with p mp

o e and c e re m n y the ho mag paid to his situati on . F un do s Auﬁdio Lusco pr ce lo se lib en ter

' ’ Lirz uimus fusa m r id en tes r ee mra s r ibes q , p c ;

ce t x ta m e ! [a lum cla vum r a n ce u b a tillum. Pr e , p qe

n n The c e t o Fo rmi ez n ow Mola di Ga e ta . It is g e e

le i e d P as h ma r n a gally b e v that e rmise w t e urbs mu r a , e n the le o f Ma mur r a Ro n n b i g birth p ac , a ma k ight , Fo n th ough so m e a utho r s plac e it at di .

in uessa h e e s Plo tius an d ar u At S e m t Virgil , V i s, an d o n h n e xpresses his j y o t e o ccasi o .

' ’ P osle m lux or ztur mullo g r a t rs sima n a mque li s e t V r a s Sin uessa Vir rli us ue P ot u a i , g q

' t i us ua le s n e ue c a n d idror e O ccur r un a n m . q q s

’ ‘ ' ! u m i d e wn c zo lt r T er r a tulzt n e que qe is e s t t r a e . O qui complex us c t g a udia qua n ta fuer un t ’ m Ni/ule go co n t uler zmj ucun do sa n us a ico . The t own whe re he expe ri en ce d so much plea s ure Sin uessa is the Mondr agon e of the pr esen t day situated

2 0 Fr om Rome

‘

Lab icum le o e e C o on n . s at ed , .whi th rs plac it at l a It is itu

h ia ab n a a n ear t he ju n cti o n o f t e t L ica with t he via Lati n . F e r en ti n o o n e of th e citi e s of th e ancie n t H e r n ic i

n tain s ith the o n n e o f Pc r c ian o o co , w adj i i g villag ab ut

e o t he c n e ight th ou sa n d s o uls . In th e y ar 500 o f R m e o sulMerula es tablishe d he r-e a c ol on y an d h av i n g -always r e mai n ed faithfulto th e Ro ma n s the city pr es e rve d its

- r n t own laws . Ir p e s en ts n othi n g o f i t eres t b ut h e walls

r of n which a e v e ry a n ci e n t co structio n . A t a dista n c e o f ab o ut e igh t miles is situat e d o n a s t e e p hill Fr o si n o n e al so a city o f th e Hern ici con tai n in g

n h o e a populati o o f a b out 7 500 p erson s. T e n ew r ad pass s thro u gh a fe r t rle v all e y on to

C EP RA NO

O n th e n of the i w iclr e its n on right ba k Lir s q , aft r ju cti h the o s es th e n e of the lno a nd wit Sacc , as um am Garig ia ,

fo h n e rms t e fro ti er b etwe en the PapalStates an d Napls .

MONT E C A SSINO

Th e abb ey of Mo n t e cassi n o wa s fo u n ded in 529 by n an d a h e o S . Be edict may b e j ust ly call e d the c r dle of t m

’ ast ie f t he n 9 a nd e n e t s o w este r n Wo rld . I 5 8 it ws plu e r d

the o in 884 n t the e n s e by L mbards , bur by Sarac ; it aft r ward s su ffe r ed fro m th e d e predati on s of the Crusad er s and h n f th e ne le mo of t e No rma s . What r e mai n e d o e v rab e n e a a um en t o f S . B dict w s d e stroy e d by the e arthquak es

49 n d 1 6 49 h o f 1 3 a . T e m on aste ry was r esto r e d by seve ral po p es an d particularly by Urba n V who belong e d to t h e ord e r . The lit erary world is in d eb t ed to thi s abbey for the ese on o f n I th 1 pr rvati ma y works o f a n tiquity . n e 1 th

en he -i c tury t Abbé Did er , afterwards Pop e Vict o r III To Naples. cause d c o pie s t o b e m ade b y the m o nk s o f t he wo r ks o f ir ilHor ace T n e th e F ov the Ho m er , V g , , e re c , asti id , Idyls o f Th eocritus a nd of ma ny of th e gr eek an d lati n hi st o ria n s; he also pro cured gr eek artists fro m Co n sta n ti n opl e

t o o n e n t h e o n e o e n r am t m ast ry with m saics , thus pr pari g

th e e of that b r an ch of th e . The e n n e n o r vival _ arts tra c i t th e m o n ast e ry is by a la r g e da r k gro tt o so ppose d to hav e

n n e . n e e o f th e b een i habit e d by S . B e dict O ach sid stair

f th e ﬁr s t c o ar th o o e o e s ain t of cas e o urt e e c l ssal statu s fth ,

e 5 . c o an d n e th e e o f mo his sist r S h lastica , u d r arcad his

n n . th er S . Abb o da zia The m ost r e markabl e w orks i n t he church ar e the do or o rd e re d at C o n sta n ti n opl e by Didie r o n which a r e

r aved~in e e e t he n es of the n e e ng silv r l tt rs am la ds , castl s an d village s that o n c e b el o n g e d t o the m on a st e ry . . In the

- lo f . e o n n Mazza r O a a chap e S Gr g ry is a pai ti g by ppj , r pr

n e e . sen ti ng S . Be dict ; o v r the d oo r o f the sid e n ave is th e martyrd o m of S . A n dre w by th e sam e artist ; th e co n s ecrati on of th e church by PO pe Al exa n d e r II is a cc

r a d e o o f G io r da n Th a o r n am n leb t e fr sc o . e high alt r is e

d i le o o n a e n d t e w th marb pr e ci us st e s al bast r , v erd e a n o n e l lazz li n d e o e r er a tiqu , apis u a brocat ll ; it is plac d o ve

h b t e r r n e o t e su a us church an d the t o mbs o f S . B e n edict an d St Scholastica and is {said t o b e de sig n ed by Micha el

n lo th A g elo; we a s r emark e t ombs of Guid on e Fier amos t he l n e o f Mi n an o an d o f o the son of ca , ast pri c g , Pi etr , o en o De Me e i e om his o n h as L r z dici , x l d fr c u try w o w n e n th n dr ow d i e Gariglia o . The s ubt e rra n eous chur ch called ilTugurio or ilSoc

o so e e t o . en e an d e - h c r d dicat d S B dict his sist r w o with S .

Maur and S . Placida a r e d ep osited h er e was pai n t ed' by ' ie Mar oo di S n a . The r efe ct ory c on tai ns a pictur e r epr esen tin g the multi plicati on o f loaves c o mmen ced b y Fra n ce sco Ba ssa n o and fi fio ished by his bro th er Lean drogsixteen origi n alfigur es bx 22 Fr om Home

’ d r in o i e o e th e cav . A p wh ch serv d f r th mosaics of th e cupoTa ’ o . e e s e esen n th e ostls h f e t e B . ir S P t r , r pr ti g Christ , Ap , V n d Jo n B a tist a o f the h g in a S . h p f g ift arti st w o also pr esen

t ed o e n i n s as of his e o on to . e ne th r pai t g a mark d v ti S B dict . The library of the c on v en t con tai n s abo ut 1 8 thou

nd l es n e d on s o f the c n s a vo um , ma y rare iti XV e tury and a o 80 ori n ld lo s ts o f E e o s Kin b ut 0 gi a ip ma , char mp r r , gs, d uk es an d bulls of th e Pe p es date d i n the IX an dX1 cen i th e os an en d lo is of A on i t ur es; m t ci t ip ma that j , pr n ce of i Benev ent o da't cd in 884 writte n on par chment in Ldmb ar d charact e rs. n i a T he s ite of the t owe r of S. Be e dict s in gre t vene r ation a chap elin which ar e m osaics an d old pai nti n gs is n n n said to have b e en his ce ll. O e ofthe pai ti gs r e presen ts t he o s ai n t an d th e so ul o f his sist e r S . Sch lastica ascendi n g t o

en n th e fo o f a o e . O e t he l is a n h eav i - rm d v v r a tar pai ti ng n b y Mazzaro ppi re presen ti n g the B . Virgi s howin g Christ en t e e o e n n s ele t o S . B edict ; hr th r pai ti g by c brat ed maste rs t o h e~ mor o th s ar e de sti n ed o h no ur t me y f e ai n t . At the foo t o f Mon te C ass in o is t he t ow n o f San G er

r le an i . man o whi ch co nt ai n s some r e ma kab tiquit es At the Sp o t called the C r ociﬁsso r emai n s of the theatre still e xist ; th e m ost importa n t of th ese rui ns is th e a mphi

e e le t h e . n o is Ar t h atr cal d Col o s seum . Ne ar S Germa no th e le of e o ee was the esiden e of pi , birth p ac Cic r ; Ar r c h is broth e r Qui n tu s whose villa was probably s ituat ed at F on n o n n all e t ses n n s ta a bu a , ma y s m s tatu s, bus s, va , pai ti g

a h s a n d m osaics h vi ng b ee n fo u n d at th at s p o t . T e itua t i o n of Arpi n o plac ed on two h ills is v e ry picturesque ; t he o e o f e o it s on e as ld i th h us C ic r , i c j e ctur d w p ace n e i sle of Fib r en ae n e th e o n of M s lso a . ar t w ; that ariu a n ativ e o f Arpi n o at t he palace now in rui ns calle d the k C ast ello.

The church es and private galleri es of the t own con ’ nt ain n e r s h d r um r ous wo k of t e cav. A pino ; in;the h ouse

‘ 24 F r om ome to R Naples.

i 0 l an 1 Luco is 3 pa ms high d 5 Wid e . O n e ach side of the m o un tai n ar e n um e ro us o utl e ts c ut h orizon t ally an d ve r tically c o mmu n icati n g with o thers formi n g an i ncli n e d pla n e but s e ve ralo f the se havi n g in th e pro c ess of tim e b e en ﬁlle d up with de p o sits o f ea r th th e wat e rs n ow n o lo n g e r re ach the pri n cipal cha n n elwhich fo rms th e Q ui s e sary . It is s tat d by Su e t on iu s that thirty t ho u sa nd pe r l e son s we r e e mp oye d du ri n g elv en y ears on this work t hat the e mp e ro r C laudiu s celebrated its comple ti on by a

N o o e of ele e es e le the aumachia c mp s d tw v tri r m ach , ca l d

n an d R o n s on mo n e n ls Sicilia h dia quadr s , u t d by i dividua

‘ who wer e c o n d e mn e d t o d e ath 5 the sig n alof battle was gi ven by a ﬁgure which re pre s en t e d Triton risi n g o ut o f t he lak e a n d . bl owi n g a h o r n . Me dals with t he head o f Cla udiu s- W e re st ruck on th i s o ccas i on quan tities ofwhich hav e b e en fo u n d n e ar the e mis sary . The v illag e o f Luc ov situat e d on the rui n s o f t he an ~ cie n t C ity o f An gitia d er ives it s n am e fro m the fo r est se

s th h o cr ed to th e g oddess of e Marsi . T e rui n s f A n gilia c ov e r a -large space of groun d about 300 paces t o th e n or th al o o an d ‘ w est o f Luc o ; its w ls c mp osed of s quare blcks irr e gular p olyg on s 1 700 g eom e tricalpace s in circuit hav e suffe red much fro m the i n juri e s of tim e an d t he i n un da tio n s of th e lak e ; rui n s of a t e mple o f the doric o rder

Were fou n d in th e c e n tr e o f the city . S ev e ral t ow n s b elon gi n g t o t h e Marsi hav e complet e ly di sapp e are d b ut the s ite of An xan t ium willb e fo u n d at ’ f o Civita d An t in o of Mar uvium at S . B e ned etto o C rti

Pellinon a im at S . Nfifl i lfib

This city is so a n ci en t that its origi n is e n velo pped in the

o o n o fabl es of th e high est a n tiquity . By s m e its f u dati n is attribut ed to Fa le r ius o ne o f the Arg on a uts 1 300 y ears

fo C o e t o e n o e o n o f th en b e re hrist ; by th rs Parth p , e e Syr s ; t to He rcul e s iEn e as a n d e ven o Ulyss es. It is pro babl e

th e o n e e e e e o o n e th e e o n that e r al f u d rs w r Gr k c l i s , r ligi , la n guag e cust o ms an d usag es o f the Greeks havi n g b ee n

In the 5 . th pr e s e rve d he re duri n g ma n y c en turi e s . book of his g eo graphy Strabo sp e aks o f th e s e Greek c o l on i es and adds that th e C ampa n ia n s an d aft e r the m th e C umaean s

o o e n t ook p ss essi o n f Napl e s . C um ae far m o r a ci en t an d m ore pow e rful rui n e d Napl e s whic h was aft e rwards r e built by or d e r o f the o ra c l e an d call e d Ne ap olis or n ew

n n t ow which am e it has pr es erv ed .

4 n In 33 B . C . it e n t e re d i t o t h e c o n fed eracy of the Italia n citi e s r e mai n e d t he ally o f Rom e at th e time o f

An n e e R o n o on as e e e ibal b cam a ma c l y , w mb llish d by Adria n in 1 30 an d by C o n s ta n ti n e i n 308 who r en d e r e d

o n o f th e o h e e it e e larg st citi e s f t mpir e . Witho ut fo ll o wi n g t he vicis s itud e s o f Napl e s at the o f the R o n e e n th e e e in s b fall ma mpir , duri g middl ag s , u sequ en t an d m o r e r e ce n t tim e s we shall m e r e ly add that in 1 81 5 th e Spa n ish bra n ch o f the Bourbon s r esum e d th e on thr e . It w o uld b e difﬁcult t o imagi ne any thi n g m ore b eau tifultha n th e vi ew of Napl e s u n d e r what e v e r p o i n t it b e h e xami n ed . T e t ow n o ccupi e s a succe ssi o n o f hills run n i n g fro m s o uth to e ast r o u n d a bay 1 6 mil e s in breadth an d l e n gth fo rmi n g the b asn n call ed C r at e r by the Neap oli

n s e a ’ r i a e b ' a a o ta . Th b n is t e m n t d v t tt o c res th t f Il is Gui de n n m t o the o f Mn e t o th e le a n d i lose b right , i rva ft , s c d y t h e isla n d o f C apri . A part o f th e t ow n ext en ds t o the West in t h e fo rm o f a n amphithe atre on the hills o f P osi

o n E o an d n n n o n h e t o t h lipp , Sai t rm A tig a ; a ot r part e e ast in a plai n co v er e d with villas fro m the P on te d e lla

dd l n d o n Ma a e n a to Po rtici a t o Vesuvius . T wards the o rth Naple s is s urro u n de d by a ridge of hills which s e pa r at e

o th Te o o o r o e t h it fr m e rra di Lav r th se f rtil e plai n s , e n felx alle th e n C ampa ia i , c d by R o ma s th e ir rich est pa r n t r t mo y . Napl e s is Wellprovid e dwith aqu educt s an d fou n tai n s s uppli ed by two ab un da n t Spri n gs ; th e aqu e ducts pass u1 n d e r th e pav e m e n t an d hav e t wice s e rv e d t o tak e th e

n m c ity . The m ost a n ci e n t o f t h es e co v eys t he wat e rs fro t he foo t o f Ves uvius ﬁve m ile s with i n th e city t o the P ogg io B e a le ; at th e C apua gat e they pa ss i n to the gr e at

n Fo e o an d lthe e s o f the Mo e c a al at rm ll . supp y quart r l

‘ - a n 1 29 th e a e n im r e a n d C s t e l Nuo vo . I 6 m th maticia C i llo an d C armign a no a Neap o lita n g e n tlema n mad e at th e ir *own e xp en s e a ca n al30 mil e s i n len gth which bri n g s th e Wa te rs o f the Iscle r o thr o ugh Maddalon i C a n cello an d

Ac e rra t o C apo di C hi n o an d Napl es by the p orta S . Gen n o t u n the u e of th e t o n . In ar , h s supplyi g pp r parts w

‘ ‘ latte r tim e s th e wat e rs o f t he villa of C ase r ta have ’ b een

to v a dd ed th os e o f this c an al. The city is ab o ut 1 2 mil e s in c ir cuit an d is d e fe nd ed ’ da ee o th e C e dellUov o the C e N o o y thr f rts , a st l ast l u v , n x o some o on s on a d C ast el S . Er m o 5 t he p rt by f rtiﬁcati 7 th e t wo m ol es . The p opulati on is s uppo sed t o a mo u n t to 450 thow

L o - t h e ar e t th e of es a n d s uls 5 e str e ts e pav d wi h lava V uvius, t he gr eat er par t s of the houses hav e flat r oofs fo rmi n g t er r aces ; t h e m ost re markable foun tai ns ar e those o f Mon t e r liv t to an d Me n th u e s les an d o e edi O e di a , e ch rch , pa ac th r tﬁees ar e r ic hly orn am en te d b ut t hey do n ot equali n

28 Guide

It is 6 8 fee t lo n g an d 1 33 broa d the l en gth o f th e pit is

d the e e e the s 95 78 an br adth 70 f t , tage by 50 , the b oxes c an e asily c o n tai n 1 2 p e rs on s . i T he F o n do is of t he middle siz e b ut of an ele ga n t

on t he Fe n e an d . n o o n th con structi , ic S Carli e piazz a

e he F Cast e l n uo vo a r e much fre qu en t d . T ior en ti n i is de dic at ed t o th e r e pr e s e n tati o n of o p e ras a nd wo rks in

o e . The . Fe n n o n e th e o n e n o o fr pr s S rdi a d ar p t u v , is e h quen ted chi eﬂy by t e low e r o rd e rs . Th e piazza o r Larg o d i C ast ell o is o r n am en ted with se v eral fo u n tai n s t he pri n cipal of which is th e Medi n a so n e o h e o ho am d fr m t vic er y w plac e d it o n t his sp ot . In t he midst o f a larg e ba so n a r e fo ur satyrs suppor ti n g a larg e shell o v e r which a r e fo ur se a ho rs e s with Ne ptun e

o n a n o n h oldi n g the trid en t . The li s d th e r e xt e r al o rn a

F u I n m e n ts ar e t he wo rk o f a saga . n the c e tr e of the place

n e n n e h is a o th r fo u tai call d t e Sp ecchi . The C ast e l Nuo v o c o mmu n icati n g by a c o v e re d way th e e t h o o s with palace is situat d on e co ast , its l fty t wer

n o i 1 28 e n W e re built by Gio . Pisa n 3 wh en C harl s of A j o u

e e en e e e the e e n o on o n fix d his r sid c h r , xt r al f rtificati s f rmi g a squar e o f ab o ut 1 200 fe e t we re co mm e n c e d by Alfon so I i n 1 500 an d n e in 1 46 don e o di o , fi ish d 5 by P dr T l ed o wh o add ed th e two larg e basti o n s . Near t h e first fo r tifi cati on s is a triumphal arch with statu es an d has r eli efs e ec e in on o o f o n o on en n e es n r t d h ur Alf s I , a m um t i t r ti g in th e histo ry of art as v ery few o f that pe ri od e xist i n E uro p e .

o 1 4 on the The church o f S . Giac m o built in 5 0 d esig n s of Ma n li o c o n tai n s am on gs t o the r pai n ti n gs , o n e

n de lS o an d h e on e n o n o by A dr ea art , t m um t f do Pe dr di o o on o f h e o r f e n T l ed e t be st w ks o M rha o .

ln t at o f . Fe n n o t h n n o f t he e ln h . S rdi a d e pai ti gs c i i g an d cup o la ar e con sid er e d t o b e the b est works of Pa olo O Na les 2 9 f p .

f olen th e de Matth e is . O ve r the altar is a wo rk o S im a , statu es o f David an d Mos es a r e by Vaccar o . O n the Pizzo falcon e is the Nu n ziat e lla a chur c h which

' onc e b el o n g ed t o the J esuits an d is d ec orat ed with gilt stucc oe s an d pai n ti n gs by de R osa an d oth er Neap olita n artists . O n t he c e ili n g is a fre sco by Mura .

In t he e n e o n en e church o f S . Maria d gli A g li r am t d o n o MN" with marbl es a r e pai n ti n g s by Massim o , Gi rda .

e a o o en . t is , V ccar , S lim a In e Mo e e in th e elo f that o f S . C arl o all rt ll chap

S . Lib ori o is a ﬁn e pai n ti n g by Gi orda n o .

II D AY

is t h e At the e nd of the quart e r called S . Lucia

’ C AST EL D ELL UO VO

Which adva n c es ab o ut 600 fe e t i n t o th e sea o n an lan e Me i n a n d e s is d call d gar s by Pli y, M gala by Statiu ; built on t he sit e o f a villa o f Lucullus it Was l o n g call e d C st Luc ullan um an d e e t he e o f e en e a rum , b cam plac r sid c f o August ulus t h e last R o ma n e m pe r o r wh en he was e on e O o e n o f th e H e in 476 . a d thr d by d ac r , ki g ruli A p lace was e re ct e d her e in 1 1 54 which was plac e d in a stat e of de fen c e in 1 225 by the e mp e ro r Fred e r ick 1 1 ; o e o r e d in 1 6 th r w ks wer a d e d 93 .

C HIAJA

The public pr om e n ad e situat ed o n t his quay was om e n e in 1 77 9 Fe r n n an d e en c m c d by di a d I , has lat ely b e o n to t he oo f carri d f t o Po silippo . D ivid ed i n t o ﬁv e all e ys i n t e rspers e d with fou n tai n s an d statu es it is n ow on e of the o a re ab le eso of N e m st g r rts apl s . Near Posilippo is the church of 30 G wide

MA IA I O’ 8 . R PIE D GR T T A

in 1 3 3 it on n o e oo s Built 5 is s mall , c tai s s m g d picture

- r h n but is particula r y c ele b at ad by the imag e o f t e B . Virgi place d o ve r th e high altar which is an obj ect o f great

v en e rati on .

' The sole m n fe stival c ele brat ed y ea r ly on th e 8. th

se e e en e t h e o th e o e s pt mb r is att d d by c urt , public auth riti a an d n imm en se c o n c o urse of p e o ple . O n th e hillo f Posilippo w e r e th e villas of Mariu s

R n . Pompey, Cice r o an d othe r disti n gui shed oma s

T HE GRO T T O

Is a road dug through th e hilla third o f a mil e in len gth ; th e he ight is abo ut 1 50 fe e t an d t he width larg e en o ugh fo r two carriage s the road o rigi n ally pas se d ov e r

The o o as the m aean s the hill . gr tt w probably mad e by C u an d Neapolita n s in o rd e r to facilitat e th e ir co mmun ica

n a tio s . It w s e n larg ed u n d e r D on Pedro di To l e d o . O ve r th e en tra n c e i n t o the gr o tt o ar e remai ns of a t omb called th e

T OMB O F VfRGI L

The Spo t whe re this celebrated poe t was buri e d is i n d e i n e se n n e [Elius o n m icat d a pr ci ma r by D atus , a gra maria n of the IV c e n tu r y who says that by o rde r o f Au gustus the ashes of Virgilw e re tra n sferr e d t o Napl es h is l favo rit e resid en ce and plac e d on the r oad to P ozzu o i , i tr a Ia id em se u dum. o o f th e e n n p c n Statius , a p e t I c tury also sp eak s o f this t omb an d th e pa ssag es o f these two

e can b e e e to t n hearin n writ rs asily appli d he rui g thi s am e . It is said th at i n the c en tr e of this mo n umen t was a Se

32 Guide pri n c e ss o f the C ar atfa family ; if t e rmi n at ed it would b e

h n o a l on e of t e ha ds m e st palace s o f N p es . t he e n d o f th e o o n t o in le n e the At pr m ry , a p ac am d

o ar e e n o f t he v o f e e Gaj la , r mai s illa Lucullus d scrib d by

in t h e . 4. 1 . o f n o : n e s Pli n y c 5 IX . his atural hist ry ar thi a r e a n ci e n t baths impro p e rly call e d Scu ola di Virgilio . At ’ Ma r e chian o we re the ﬁsh po n d s of Pollio s villa al so men t ion ed by Pli n y . At a sho rt dista n c e fro m th e pro mo n t ory of Posilippo

isida a n ln le and lin n o use is N , is a d a mi a ha f circuit w d

as a lazzar e tto. III D AY

O n the r idg e of b ills called th e Vorn er o a r e se v eral villa s an d churche s ; that o f t he C amald o li co n tai n s s e v e San t af de M o an d o e palwork s of Bo rghe s e e , assim th r Neapolita n pai n t ers ; b ut wh a t r e n d e rs this sp o t highly in t e resti n g t o travell e rs is t he ext e n siv e pa n o rama o f Na n e e h i ples an d of the Campa ia f lix s en fro m t e he rm tage .

T HE C AST LE S. ERMO

’ So n am ed fr om a n e ighb ouri n g chapeld e dicat ed t o

E s as o n o e th n S . ra mus w rigi ally a t w r built by e No rma s an d cha n ge d i n to a fo rtr ess by Charl e s II t o which o the r fo rtiﬁcati on s w er e add ed in 1 5 1 8 whe n t he t ow n was b esei e d e g by Lautr c . C harl es V r e duc e d it t o a r e gular citad elan d Philip V add e d o th e r wo rks : t he whol e n o w pre s en ts an e diﬁc e in th e fo rm o f an hexagon ab out 1 00

o se i n e e h n an d n t i s diam t r wit mi e s c ou t e rmi nes . Withi n t he s le is a e l an ca t w l of imm en s e size .

T HE C HURCH OF S. MART INO

Was on c e occupi ed by a royalvilla which Charles du e of alb ri ev iled on his fa her Rob er t of An o k C a a , pr a t j u 3 3 Of Naples.

In 1 2 - an d t o c on ve rt i n to a sacr e d buildi n g . 3 5 a church

t h n . mo n ast e ry w er e e r ect ed an d richly e n d o wed by e ki g

en e e t wo e n e e o n th e Th e church , r w d c turi s lat r le ln of F u is e o e w n n p a s a saga , d c rat d ith pai ti gs , marb n n o e o e an d o e . O e t he e e w rks , pr ci us g ms gilt stucc s v r tra c is a pai n ti n g by Massimo r e pr e s e n ti n g a de po siti on with h n o n a n d . r no M o : o n t e the B . Virgi , S . J h S B u , by assim sid e s ar e a Mo s e s an d Elia two ﬁn e co mpo siti on s by Spa h o n gn ole tt o : th e twelv e pr oph e ts by t e sam e artist f rmi g th e n o f the n e o t h e e e ight pictur e s i n c eili g av , fr m b auty

e n an d o o n a n d th e e o f e e o n o f th e d sig c l uri g , vari ty xpr ssi

h e o e e r e e n n a r e c on sid e re d as mast e r pi e c e s . T e fr sc s r p s ti g o ur savi o ur an d th e ap ostl e s ar e so me o f the b e st Wo r ks o f La n fra n co .

T HE PIAZZA S. SPIRI T O

Is d e co rat e d with a s e micircular b uildi n g by Van vit elli rais ed in 1 757 at th e e xp e n s e o f th e t ow n t o Ki n g C harl e s 1 1 1 ; o n a marbl e balustrad e a r e 26 statu e s allusive t o th e virtu e s o f that m o n arch an d in t he c e n tre is a larg e

e e n t o o e n t p d estal d sti e d supp rt his qu estria sta u e .

O e the o e o f . o t v r high altar f th church S Spirit , buil in 1 5 e n e t e n o h 55 , is r pr e s e t d h d e sce t f t e holy ghost by

Mo o th e n n in t h e elof t he o r , pai ti g chap R sary is by o Gi rda no . The o church f S . There sa c on tai n s i n the chap elo f the s n o e n n Ma o t h e n o E ai t s m pai ti gs by ssim ﬂi ght i t gypt , t he . o n an d S J h o th er w orks ar e by Giac o m o delPo ; t he

. n in the t o b S Ja uarius sacristy is said e by D o men ichi no .

T HE ST UD J

T s e en s hi xt iv e buildin g was e r e ct e d in 1 57 7 by the ’ v e o e d Ossuna on th l ic r y Duk e p a ns of Julius Fon ta n a 2 9t 34 Guide

and d stin ed for an n e u iv e rsity . It was en large d b y the C o n de e os an d C III u t L m by harl e s but th e colleg e s ha n ee n n e to vi g b tra sf rred S . Salvad o re Ferdi n a n d o I de di a d o h e c t e it t t acade my of sci en ces an d ﬁne ar ts in stitu

t d in 1 8 . h e 7 0 T e c olle cti on of obj ects o f ar t an d sci e n ce d e posit e d in this establ ishmen t n am ed the Museo Bo rb o n o is e n o ﬁve l ic divid d i t c ass es . Th e statu e s formi n g the inheritan ce of the Farnese fa R o n d mily at me, a th os e disco ver e d in the e xcava

on s o f H er culan eumr an d om ti P pe ii .

2 . h e T papyrus ma n uscripts fo u n d in th ese two an ci en t: citi es an d the i n g e n i o us m echa n ism e mployed in n o n u r lli g the m .

3 . The b o osed of 1 50 00 n e d le an d li rary c mp , 0 pri t vo um s 0 o f3 00 ma n uscripts . The picture gall e ry c on tai n i n g a b e autifula n n u n cia ti on by Pi n turicchi o an d s o m e ﬁn e pai n ti n gs b y C a r ac c Sc hidon e an d o o j , C r e ggi .

5 . A o e o n n for n e an d c ll cti , u iqu e its umb r beauty , of

e e E n e e a n d o e vas s call d trusca , m dals , sculptur s th r o bj ects in bron z e ; a n tiqu e glass war e s an d pr o visi on s ' fo u n d at Herc ulan eurn an d Po mpe ii; pain tin gs fro m the

e o n f o f the an xcavati s o th s e citi e s , cork m od el s o ci en t th eatre of He rcula n eum an d of the te mples a t

Pazs tum .

The b alls on the gr o u n d ﬂoor ar e divide d in to two

u ln s o n e e n e for t he e o f n n an d b i di g , d sti d acad my pai ti g

u e t he o e r for o f e e e e e sculpt r , th that archit ctur , p rsp ctiv

d o n n . Th e n n b alls ar e l E an r ame ts e r mai i g ﬁl e d with gy: tian a n d E an on e n s e the o st p trusc m um t . with statu s m re markabl e of which ar e : th e Far n es e He rcules by Glico the e n n th e Flo e ee e fo r e Ath ia , ra highly st m d its drap ry t he Farn ese bull by Apo ll o n ius aud An d r isc us Who hav e r e present ed in t his admirable gr o up the mystic Dirce at th e mome n t of h er rescu e fr om the b ullt o whose ho rn s

3 6 Guide Adj o i n i n g th e palace is a park of about t hr ee miles en t e e e fo r the o l n a n d n t in e xt r s rv d r ya hu t , o t he op of th e n e th e hill is w obs e rvat ory . O n the s o uth e r n slo pe o f C apo di Mon t e is a c ollege fo u n d e d in 1 732 by Ripa fo r t he e ducati o n o f yo u n g C hi-s n ese who at th e co mpl e ti o n o f the ir s tudi es r e turn as mis s ion ar ie s t o Chi n a ; man y Chi nese curiositi es are preser ved e in t he coll g e . A t h an a t h e fo o t of t e hillis th e church o f S . J u r ius ’ de po ver i wh e r e th e b ody of the sai n t was deposited when

t o t he o . brought Napl e s by bish p S S e v e rus . In this church is the pri n cipale n tra n ce in to

T HE C AT A COMB S

T ese e n eo s os to ee h subt rra us pa sages , s upp ed hav e b n used at a re m o t e p e ri o d fo r t he sa n d an d sto n e r e qui sit e for ln are t en t o o o a t bui di g said o e xt d P zzu li , nd o the e m on t e Lautre c . At th p e ri ods o f p ers e cution they serv ed as a r efuge fo r t he early christian s who u n ited here in prayer . They co n tai n an i n t e r esti n g littl e church which is en t e re d by se v e ral s t e ps th e column s ar e dug out of the t ulfo aro u n d t he sacristy wer e ra n g ed s e v e ral inscr ip in the m h e t ions n owplaced pave en t of t e xte rn alchurch .

’ T HE ALBERGO nn povnar

Co mmon ly calle d the R e clusori o is an e xt e n si ve edi

ﬁ h III o n th n f a . ce , rai se d in 1 75 1 by C arl e s e pla o a O rpha n s an d p o o r childr e n ar e r e ce ive d an d i n struct e d in di ffere n t trad e s an d pr o fe ssi ons . O n e of th e lat e ralarcad e s of the p o rtico leads t o 2the t men o f e e th e o e t o t of m n the e apar s f mal s , th r hat e ; sta b lishmen t suppo rts abo ut 800 p ers on s an d fur n ishes in s n in s in en in and t e tructi o surgery, mu ic, draw g , grav g , h Of Naples. 3 7

. n le s S n an mecha nic arts The you g fe ma s ew, pi d mak e ar ' t icles o f fashi on an d s tuds . Near this buildi n g is the gard en of pla n ts form ed of late years . n on is le e of the In t b e church of S . A t i o a arg pictur ﬁ e arly tim es of pai n ti n g which r e pr e sen ts that sai ng . o f F n an d . . o n an d . e e . T o ra cis S Paul , S J h S P t r his w rk

’ th e Ne ap olita n pai n te r Co la n ton i o d z F ior e is in o ilan d b ears th e isc r ipt ion :

si d c F P t r . A . MCCC LXXI N wola us Toma lor e ic o this w o uld s ee m t o pro v e that J ohn of Brug e s is n o t t he in v en t o r of pai n ti n g i n o il. In a s olitary vall ey b e twee n C ap o di Mon t e an d Capo di C hi n o ar e a c on v e n t o f missi on ari e s an d the rui n s o f o e l e the e s of th e e n o aqu educts , which f rm r y carri d wat r S ri is n m t o th e Pisci n o mirabil e o f C ap e M e u . V DAY

Th o n é o r e un o o as l e church fthe Tri it , G s u v w bui t i n 1 570 by Luca n o o n th e sit e occupi e d by the palac e of th e pri n c e s of Sal e rn o ; I t is i n the fo rm o f a gr e ek cr os s

h n e T e chap e l o f S . Ig n atius c on tai s t he statu s of David an d e e C o o e t he oo o en J r miah by sim , o v r gr eat d r S lim a pai n t e d in fre sco Helio dor us drive n o ut of t he t e mpl e; in t h e e chap l o f the H . Tri n ity is a ﬁn e pictur e by Gu e rcin o .

In t h o n n n n e n th e on e adj i i g co v e t of S . S bastia c se r

o e o n o o e a n d a valri s f music o f S . O fri o L r t o d e lla Pi e t e e e n n e an d t e e m hav b u it d , hav e pr oduce d h c el brat e d co

o e e ole n Sac c hin i C o p s rs P rg si , Picci i , , Guglielmi , imar sa , Pa esi ell o and Zi n garelli ; am on gst o th e r disti n guish ed sin

e E i ie li a n d F g er s C affar lli , g z l ari n e lli In Sa n ta C hiara built i n 1 3 1 0 by Masucm IS a pai n ti n g n o f the B . Virgi by Gi ott o ; a n othe r ov e r th e altar by Lan

n o an d i n th f th e fe e fra c , e chap e l o San lic family is an a n ti

que sarcophagus c ove r ed with has r eli efs . Guide

O N O G O 8 . D ME I C MAG I RE

Was built in the gothic style of archite cture in 1 286 e of An o In th by Charl s j u. e chap e l o f th e A nn un ciati on is ain tirr b T it ian in no e on f a p g y , a th r, e o o ur s avi o ur tie d t o ’ the column M eln e o C a o by icha A g l arav ggi . This church con tai n s s e ve ral old pai n tin gs by Neapolit a n an d o the r

s n o n men o f e an d in th e s st artists , u dry m u ts sculptur acri y the o of so e n es o f o n t mbs m pri c Arag . In t he church of Sa n ta Se ve ra buil t in 1 590 ar e the

n o f n R n o n mon ume ts Sa ta osalia a d S . Od e risio by C rradi i

e n e n s lo : o e th e h n n f a v tia cu pt r v r hig altar is a pai ti g o s. Maria d ella Pi eta: that o f t he r oo f is re markabl e for the e n n b eauty o f the x ecuti o a d of the pe rsp ectiv e .

In t he esu e o ar e es an d a in tin s b Mo o G v cchi statu p g y r ,

an o olen M o of en . Fr aganz , S im a , arc Si a

O n th e e n o o e th e o f . P olo sit w ccupi d by church S a , fo rm erly stoo d the t e mpl e ofC astor an d Pollux as i n dicat ed by th e gree k in scripti o n plac e d o v e r the fri e se of th e e u tablature t owards th e facad e : In th e church ar e vari o u s

e es an d n n o en M o of marbl s , sculptur , pai ti gs by S lim a , arc

n Hen t he e n M s o; The e n e o f the Si e a , ry ﬂ mi g , as im tab r acl is o ose of s ton e t he o of R e l high altar c mp d rar e s, w rk apha

n h . n a the demi n g . I t e chap elt o the le ft the b ody of 5 A dre ’ d vcllin o is e e an d in ln e o o e is A pr s rv ed, the smal av pp sit

of . e n t h a that S Ga ta o, in high v en era ti on am ongst e Ne polit an s . In th e sec on d co urt of th e adj o i n i ng con v en t ar e rui ns o f o f a e n t o e on s an d Walls th atre whe re , acc o rdi g Su t iu

Ne o e e fo r th n lto n Tacitus , r app ar d e ﬁr s t tim e i pub i c si g v e of his o n o o on rs es w c mp siti .

8 . L OR ENZ O MAGGIORE

Was built by Charl es I o f Anj o u in 1 265 o n the e u

u s a . of he t e ci en t Curia A gu tulIt is t g othic s yl, was com

40 Guide

d un e the t h o o . n is d e p osit e , d r high altar , e b dy f S Ja ua

o of en e e n o an d ro e o o f N e . rius, bish p B v t p t ct r apl s To th e right o f th e high altar ar e fo ur pai n ti n gs by

o n o an d o o e o o en . The Gi rda pp sit \f ur by S lim a sacristy con tai n s th e succ e ssi o n of p ortraits o f allth e bisho ps an d archbisho ps o f Napl e s .

' a a Th e chape l of S . J n u r ius is de co rate d with s e v en

s e n e e t he e e n l e is altar d sig d by padr Grimaldi , xt r a facad F t o e o n o r the e on by ausaga , w larg c lum s supp t architrav , h th e sid e s o f t h e br on z e d oo r ar e t e statu e s of S . Pe t er

F n . and S . Paul by i elli The chap e l co n tai n s 3 1 bro cat ello c olum n s of the cori n thia n o rd e r b e tw e e n which ar e br on z e statue s an d

n h o o e a d n e e e busts r e pr e s en ti g t e h ly pr t ct o rs , n u d r th s in s eparat e n ich es ar e pr e s e rv e d t he busts in silv e r o f th e

h r sam e sai n ts 34 in n umbe r . T e gr e ate r part a e th e wo rk o f Fi n elli who also e x e cut e d t h e larg e bro n z e statu e of

n le o e the n e ar e S . Ja uarius p ac d v r high altar u d r which d ep o sit ed t he r elics o f t he sai n t Wh ose head is pr e se rv e d in a bust : i n a silv e r tab e rn acl e ar e t wo phials o f his \ blood said t o hav e b ee n coll e ct e d by a Neap olita n wo ma n

n e at t h e m o m e t o fhis martyrd o m . This bl oo d b e co m s mi

r aculously liqui d wh e n pre se n t ed t o th e he ad o f S . Ja n ua

Th e l e n e e e e e e ri us . mirac e is r w d thr tim s ve ry y ear

n t h s e h of Ma th e o f s d uri g e ﬁr t ig t days y, e ﬁrst ight ep

e e a n d t he 1 e e e the o f e t mb r 5 d c mb r day his f stival .

t h oo li i ﬁ e th Wh en e bl d qu es imm diat e ly e j oy of the eo e o n ess e n e e en on p pl is b u dl , wh it is d elay d th ir lam tati s

a e n n r i cessa t . The high altar Bf thi s chap e l is a bl o ck of porphyry

n e n i t e rs e ct e d by silv r co r ic e s o r gilt br o n ze . O n th e days o f s ol e m n iti e s it is cust o mary t o add larg e s ilv e r ca n dle

e o f o e a n d o azzu i sticks, vas s ﬂ w rs a cross f lapis l l.

Th e n n o e t h e o n pai ti g v r high altar is by D m e n ichi o, t o a tha pposite b y Sp gn ole tto . Thre e small pictur es place d 41 Of Naples.

th le els th e e oe o n th e e n an d in the in e litt chap , fr sc s ci li g a n gl e s o f the gr eat chap elar e also by Dom en ichi n o .

SANT I APOST OLI

Th e church is built o n th e sit e of the t e mpl e of Mi

n o th o ar e n r n o a n d n erva . Th e pai n ti gs f e cup la by La f a c B n asca o e n e the n e o e n a n d o r n o e , th s u d r av s by S lim a Gi da , th e tabe r n acl e o f the hi gh altar is comp os e d o f j aSper an d

n h e o f th on e on o the r pre ci o us marbl e s . I t e chap l e C c pti ,

“ . n th e n n s t he S Micha e l is by Marc o of Si e a , e oth r pai ti g

n by S olim e a .

P ALAZZO D ELLA VI C ARIA

This buildi n g surro u n d e d with str on g w alls was rais e d by William I Ki n g o f Napl e s a n d s e rv ed as a r esi d e n ce fo r hi m s e lf a nd his succ e ss o rs un til th e tim e of

n n th e o n Ferdi a n d I . Si ce c structi o n o f the royalpalac e

do n e h by P edro di Tol d o , t e Vicaria has b e en us e d fo r h t e n n o a n d o n . tribu als , crimi al c urts pris s The church o f t he A nn u n ciati on a n d adj o i n i n g h ouse

e e e e e e e n an e n e w r r ct d by Qu S cia, larg d in 1 348 by Gio

n n II a n d in 1 40 n een va a , 5 , but havi g b d estr oy ed i n the gre at ﬁr e of 1 757 ilwas r e built in 1 782 on th e d esig n s of an t ivelli i n t he o o n 4 V f rm f a lati n cross . I t c o tai n s 4 c o lum n s o f C arrara marbl e the pai n ti n gs o v er the hig h l ar e Ma r a th o t h n a tar by , e pr ph e ts at e a gle s of the cup ol a b y Fische tti .

The d piazza elm ercato t he larg e st o f Naples has b een th e e n e of two e e e e n t h sc c l brat d ve ts , e murd e r o f yo u n g C on r adin o a n d th e e o o f M r v lt asa n i ell o . C on n radi e as h eir t o his fathe r t h e e mp e ro r C on rad e n e th t red e co un try with F r e d e ric duk e o f Austria at t he he d f a a o n army but was d e feated by Charles of A nj ou 42 Guide

who had een e o n e e e n I b r c g iz d by Cl m t V : the two youn g pri n ces we r e b e tray e d by th e l o rd o f Ast ur a d e liv e r e d h n f i n to t e ha ds o C harl e s a n d d e c apitat ed by his o rd e r on t he 26 o e 1 this piazza ct o b r 26 8. A sm all cha pe l an d cr o ss d n S w e re rais e o th e p o t wh e re t he e xe cuti on had tak en

le a n d on o o mn a p ac , a p rphyry c lu w s the fo llowi n g ih scri pti on Astur i s un g ue Le o pullum r api e n s Aquilin um

' H e d e luma v i t c e /za lum d e i p a p que d zt . as n in t h ﬁ 1 thi s chap elW bur t e r e o f 7 81 .

The e o t o f Ma n e lo o e o ut o n t he 1 6 n e , r v l sa i l br k ju

1 4 o n e on n he d e t 6 7 , a p pular i surr cti which fur is subj cts o

a o Ro F o n e Fr a c an zano an d M e l S lvat r sa , alc , , Spadaro icha A n g el o d e ll e Bambocciat e whos e pai n ti n g of thi s sce n e is in h l t e Spada galery at Ro m e .

8 . MARIA D EL CARMINE

Thi s church was e n larg e d in 1 269 b y Qu ee n Mar gar e t o f Austria the mo th er of the u n fortu n at e C orradin o who had repaired t o Napl es in ord e r t o o btai n the liberty of her son the youn g pri n c e havi n g b een alr eady de pr iv

d le n o on solon e a n e to o d for his e of if , c ati r m i d but pr vi e sepulture an d the larg e sum d e sti n e d fo r his ra n so m was applie d to thi s church : t he b o dy was tra n sfe rr ed to the chap elof t he cross wh e r e it was i n t e rre d b e hi n d the high

f F e e f altar with that o r d rick o Austria . e t n o in 1 747 This church Was r educ d o it s prese t f rm , was ad o rned with marbl e an d pai n ti n gs by Solim en a Gi e r

a d da uo n Matth eis . The cast eldelC armi n e was o rigi n ally a tower built

Fe n n 1 484 a the e o e by rdi a n d of Ar agon i . It w s chi f f rtr ss o f M s n ello and as r nde o e o s e r a a i , w su rou d with th r w rk aft i h h s d eat .

44 Envir ons

Thi s gro tto fo rm erly call e d th e ca ve rn of Cha ron d e rive s its pr e s e n t app e llatio n fro m th e e xp e rim en ts m ad e do o n a g wh o w o uld die at th e e n d of two mi n ut e s if n ot e o e t o t h e o r st r d p e n air . Be tw ee n Po zzuoli a nd the lak e o f Ag n a n o is t he SOLFA TARA calle d by the a n ci e n ts Fo rum Vulca n i situat ed in a n arr ow

n o n e the Mo n Le uco e i o r the Phle r an plai surr u d d by ti g , g oe

n t h e f n an d ﬁ e lds , was c o side r e d at e tim o Pli y Strab o as e e a Volca n o n o t e n tir ely e xti n ct . S e v ral ap rtur e s e xhal e a h eat ed vapour in which th e sm ell o f sulphur an d a m

n n e f r e n n i ht hen m o iac pr e d o mi at , lam e s a e visibl duri g g , w

th e ﬁr e is als o m o r e disti n ctly he ard . The S olfatara app e a r s t o hav e b e e n a m o u n tai n t he

of hich e in th e o e n o n o f o ln o s ummit w f ll by vi l t acti a v ca , th e n o is e pro duce d by the r olli n g o f a sto n e o n th e surface

n t e o r o w o uld i dicat e that h i n t e ri o r is h ll o w . Num e us

n l e r e n h S o e en th mi e ra wat s xist ear t is p t , r pr e s t e d by e p o e ts o f a n tiq uity as tha t wh e re H e rcule s fo ught with the

gia n ts . T H E C APU C H IN C HURC H

Was e re ct ed by the city ofNa ple s in 1 580 in h on our n of S . Ja uarius who su ffe re d martyrd o m he r e in 289 un d er e e t he Di o cl tia n . It is said that th e st o n e c o v r e d with bloo d of th e sai n t who was d ecapitat e d is pr es erv e d in h e t e chap e l d dicat e d t o him . Ab o v e t h e c o n v e n t is an e xt e n siv e gr o tt o supposed t o hav e s e rv e d as a pa ssag e b etwee n Pozzuoli an d th e

Ag n a n o lak e . Th e Mo n t e Spi n o to the south o f the c on v en t is fo rm

e d of l a n d o he vo n m t r e o n e t s ava t r lca ic at e s. Su t ius ass r that its summit was l owe r ed by C aligula wh o used t he

t he lo s to a e h h lR n of b ck p v t e hig r oads of Ita y . emai s 45 Of Naples . a n ci en t aqu educ ts that suppli ed Pozzu oli with wat e r ar e still visi b l e at this m o u n tai n which al so con tai ns mi n eral

n Spri gs . PO ZZUO LI

The origi n o f this t own has b ee n attribut e d to the h r C umae an s an d t o a c ol o n y fro m Sam o s . T e fo rm e O pi n i on

o e I e Dic ear c see ms t o b e m re prob abl . t was ﬁrst call d hia o r plac e o f the c o mm e rcial tribu n al by t he R o ma n s Pu t eoli fro m t he Put e al wh e r e th e pr ze t o r r e n d e r ed justice at R o m e ; by o the rs it is suppo se d to hav e d e riv e d its f n am e fr o m th e n umb e r o w e lls dug by Qui n tus Fabius .

e I t b ecam e a c o l o n y in t he 559 . th y ar o f R ome aft e r the

o f th e e r e ffe e o the n o fall mpi it su r d fr m barbaria s , fr m earthq uak e s an d v olca n ic e ruptio n s wh en th e t own a nd en viro n s fe ll i n to so mis erabl e a stat e that some rui ns of

n e n t e n e e lo n e e n its a ci spl did diﬁc s a r mai .

T HE T EMPLE O F AUGU ST US NO W T HE C H URC H “

O F S. PRO C ULUS. is c o mp os ed oflar ge bl ocks o f square m arbl e an d o f cori n

n o mn su o i n n e e e e thia c lu s pp rt g a ﬁ ly x cut d architrav e . I t was de dicat e d by C alpur n ius a Ro ma n k n ight t o Au gustus as asc e rtai n e d by the fo llowi n g i n scripti o n on ce placed o n the fro n tispi e ce

T E c anr uame s L . r . MP LUM An c e sr o

c um o a n xme s r' rs

D . D . an d by the christia n s t o S . Pr oculus who was martyriz ed n r an d o with S . Ja ua ius wh se b ody with that of o the r o in t Sai n ts is d e p site d he church . Am on g st the o th e r spl e n did te mpl es of Pozzu oli was that o f Di a n a which was ad o r n ed with a hu n dred colum n s and t he statu e o f t he g odd es s thirt ee n c ubits high ; it is Envir ons

pre sum e d that th is t e mple s too d on the Sp ot n owcalled

Pisat ur o . T EMPLE O F SERAPIS

H is k now n by a n tiqu e i n scriptions that in th e VI ' c en tury of Ro m e a t e mple de dica t ed t o S e rapis ex ist ed h e r e ﬂ lt was n ot dis cove r ed b e fo r e 1 750 wh en it wa

oo on i on an d e l e e n e e e g d c d ti might asi y hav b e pr s rv d , havi n g b ee n stript o f its statu es colum n s an d o th er

n am n n o e t s it is w a rui n .

Its o ile l1 34 an d f rm was quadr at ra , feet don g , b road ; it h ad fo rm erly forty two squar e chamb er s s o f which still re mai n : four marble s tair cas es le d t o t e mpl e built in a ro un d form o n a diam e t e r o f 65 The ba se had si xteen colum n s o f r e d marbl e t o suppo rt th e cup ola the thr e e o f c ipoflin o on o n e o f th e ext e ri or

! e n sid es h av al o e s urvive d th e de structi o n of this e diﬁce. In th e t o w n is a ﬁn e marbl e p e d e stal 7 palms l on g

4 an d n e e o n e in 1 69 . n si 7 i ch s wid , f u d h re 3 O its fo ur ' des ar e bas r e li efs o f ﬁgure s r e pr e s en ti n g 1 4 citi es of A sia m i no r with the ir r es p e ctive n am es i n scrib ed on th e pe de st alo f a statu e of Tib e rius sh o wi n g that this m o n um ent had b een e r e ct e d t o th at e mp ero r as a mark o f grati t ude for havi n g r e paire d th os e citi es which had b ee n n e arly a d estr oy e d by a vi ol e n t e arthqu k e . Th e po rt of Po zzu oli was fo rm erly on e of the ﬁr o f ltaly ; its l on g pi e r was built o n pil e s suppo rti n g a c h e s in th e fo rm o f a bridg e : t wo i n scriptio n s fo u n d n e

‘ it h ad 25 e o f o n 1 3 it i n fo rm us that arch s , which ly d

n an h as es o e ﬁgur ed pilaste rs r emai , d t at it w r t r d

n Adria n an d b y A n to n i us Pius .

‘ C aligul aadd ed t o the pi e r a h r idge 3 600 pac e s lo

n d f o e n e of ﬁn ishi n g at Bai ae , a fo rm ed o a d ubl li n e n o s and o e e which we re fast e d by a ch r , c v r d with a a nd sa n d lik e th e Appian wy .

48 Envir ons

Ho asse t future . m er r s that th ey in hab it ed d ee p ca ve r n s n e e to h imp e trabl t e rays o f th e sun . S e rvius gi ve s a des c r i tion o f the C e n a n d o f e on h p imm ria s th ir habitati s , whic W e re b eyon d the Av e rn o lak e an d e xt e n d e d t o th e Ache ru sia marsh a sp o t con sid er e d by th e a n ci en ts as the e n t n e n o t h e n n e o n r the n o of o ra c i t i fe r al r gi s , o ki gd m Plut

the e o f s e is 2 o e s e e 2 3 . d pth thi lak 8 t is , its diam t r 5 In t he vici n ity is a gro tto suppose d by man y writer s

f h aean lb ut in th O n t o b e that o t e C um Sybi , e pi i on o f Strab o it was a s ub t e rra n eo us way c o mmun icati n g with Bai ae by o th e rs it is asse rt e d that it was a c an aldug by Ne ro t o con duct the hot wate rs of Bai ae t o the pr o m on tory of Mise n um.

In t h e dire cti o n of Baiae ar e the rui n s o f thr ee hall s lle t h e e e of en Me an d n f ca d t mpl s V us , rcury , Dia a Luci e r, ma n y a n tiquaria n s pr e t en d that the ﬁrst was built u n d e r

ls ae o e t he e s o n e Ju iu C sar , th rs that thr e we re bath surr u d d with mi n e ralWat e r s . Th e t empl e o f Mercury pr ese rv es th e uppe r par t o f its rotu n da e n tire ; it is 1 46 fee t in diam ete r an d r e ceiv es

h n the li ght as t e Pa th eon at R o m e . O f th e t e mple of Dia n a half th e cup ola still e xist s ; its e xte ri o r is o f an h exago n fo rm ; th e d ogs an d stags

e o n o o n n e e e t o sculptur d marbl e bl cks f u d ar it , gav ris

a n e o t he o pi n i o n that it wa s d e dicat ed to Di n a . Mo t Gaur , n ow m on t e Barbaro situat e d t o t h e n orth o f Po zzu o li t owards C um ae Was ce l e brat e d by the a n ci e n t p o e ts and n e hi sto ria n s for the e xc ell e n ce of its wi s . O n the ba n ks o f th e lak e ar e rui n s said t o have b e

lon e o e le of A olo an d on the o s e ar e the g d t a t mp p l , s uth id

BAT HS OF NERO

lle o a ill e e o ossesse d on so ca d fr m v a which that mp r r p l t his Spo t whe r e h e c o mm e n c e d a large n avig abl e ca n a Of Naples. 49

n h e o t e i d estin ed to u it e t Av e rn with h T b er 3Som e re mai n s t b e in th e e on o o ar e said o dir cti f Lic la . ' T he baths or St uﬁe c on s ist o f six l on g n arrow gall e ri es at the extr e mity o f which is a Spri n g in a state o f

n e . e bulliti on , p oss essi n g ma n y m edici al qualiti s

The o a o fPo zzuo li o n e on th e c st with its v lca ic rupti s , Solfatara with its spri n gs o f bo ili n g Wat e r which pro v e tha t a gr eat part o f these subt e rra n eous ﬁr e s ar e still i n a the e l o f the so le n us of t he e e of ctivity , f rti ity i r mi d v rs Virgil :

’ Hie v er a ssiduum 8! in a lien zs men sib us ce sla s

BALE

o n t o o s om n o n of Uls Acc rdi g Strab Baiu , a c pa i y s es, gave his n am e t o this plac e c el ebrat e d in a n ci en t tim es

n n n H for th e n umb e r a d mag iﬁc e ce o f its villas . o race pr e fe rr e d Bai ae t o all o the r plac e s a n d r e pro ache d th e w ealthy men o f his tim e that n o t satisﬁ ed with the ir e xt en sive do

mai n s the y e n croach e d e v e n o n thos e o f Neptun e .

C msa r o e M o e e v o n o s , P mp y , arius p ss ss d illas this c a t; in that o f Pis o was pla n n ed th e c on spiracy agai n st Ner o ;

o f lM an th e o e o f Alex an der e that Ju ia amm a , m th r Se v rus ,

t h o t e i n n n s urpass ed all e h rs mag iﬁce ce . he o o f ae n o o T c ast Bai is w c v e re d with rui n s . Th e villag e o f Bauli situat e d n ear Baiae o n t he summi t o f a hill is said to hav e bee n fo u n d e d by He rcul e s on his

r e tur n fr o m Spai n . I t was t he re sid en c e o f Agrippi n a the

mo e of Ne o o f Ho en s an d o e e e m th r r , rt ius th r c l brated en .

T HE T HEA TRE

A of s e e in th e o se o part thi diﬁc f rm a micircl e , n the oo of h ar e s o e e a n d o r f w ich tucc bas r li fs , s m e of t he st e ps l , are its on e in s. ese n s y r ma Th rui , th ough e vid en tly for ' 5 0 Envzr ons m n of a e e e e e d the o o f i g part th atr w r call t mb Agrippi na , but it is k nown from Tacitus that this tomb was near the ae v ill a of C sar . T HE S PI C INA.

Is an an ci ent r ese rv o ir o f water for the use of the in n s an d o f the e e n e i habita t ﬂ t stati o d at Mse num. The s ubt e rra n eo us buildi n g which is en t ere d by 40 s t e ps is di v ided i n t o ﬁve gall e ri e s an d n um e r o us arcad es supp ort e d 4 by 8 pilaste rs . The l e n gth of t he b uildi n g is 225 fee t th e e 7 5 and e 2 br adth h ight 0 .

T HE C ENT O C AMERELLE

. O r n e e so e e e hu dr d chamb rs , said hav s rv d as th e fo n on o f o e e n o n o e u dati s m larg buildi g , f rm e d a ther res r o . An n en e e o th s a l v ir a ci t structur situat d t wards e e , ca l e d il o o th e o f th n n m e rcat di sabat , was e c m e t ery e i habita ts

n d Misen m . of Bai az, Bauli a u Th e lake n ow call e d Mar e m ort o on ce c o mmun i

te h In n h oe e e d c a d with t e sea . its vici ity t e p ts hav plac t he Elysia n ﬁ eld s and a mil e dista n t the F usaro lak e o r th e Ache ron spo t s c elebrat ed in t h e mythology of t he n a cien ts . MISENUM

At the extr e mity of the gulph of Po zzu oli is a pr o m on t ory on which st oo d Mis e n um so call e d fro m on e of h o o e n ae t h e compa n i on s o f 1En e as . T e p rt c mm c ed by C sar an d ﬁ n i she d by Augustus was the pri n cipal station o f the h e o an d en R o ma n fle et in the Medit e rra n e a n . T e e mp r rs s a t o Mis n m th e n of ose of Ne o an d rs had villas at e u , rui s th r

h o n n e e the Lom Lucullus still e xi st . T e t w was plu d r d by bard s in 836 and destroyed by th e Saracen s in 890 .

5 2 Envir ons

The t e mpl e of th e gia n ts so call e d fro m so m e colos sal s e o n in n o n e o f n tatu s f u d its rui s , which is owin th e stu dio 3 1 ee in e n an d 25 in e is f t l gth br adth . In th e Eub o ic m ou n tai n s an d on t he Do mitia n way b e twee n C um ae an d P o zzu oli a r e r e mai n s of a larg e brick

la n d of an e the o e e 1 9 ee wa l arch call d Arc f lic f t wide , n th e wall is 6 1 fe e t i h e ight . The t e rrit ory o f C um ae owi n g t o t he s tagn atio n of th e waters , is n ow a marsh beyon d which on a hillcom o e of o n s e i p s d v lca ic sub ta n c s , s

LIT ERNUM

Of th e o rigi n of this t ow n we have n o pr e cise i n formatio n ; it was d e clared a military c o l on y un d er Augustus an d was th e re sid en c e o fScipio Africa n u s wh o di e d he re acc o rdi n g t o an e n Strab o d S e ca . The t o w n Was de stroye d in 453 by the Va n dals un d r n n n as o n of the e G e se ric . Am o gst its rui s w f u d a part t omb rais e d t o Scipi o by his family T A PA T RI A mac h en c e th es e rui n s an d th e lak e w e re call e d Patria .

The ln o f Pr o c id a Nisida an d C c o n is a ds , Ischia , apri t ai n n um ero us mi neral Spri n gs an d so m e r e mai n s o f exti n ct v olcan oes . CO A ST OF POMPEII

de l At a dista n ce o f thre e mil e s fro m the pon t e l Maddal en a u n d e r which pass e s t he riv e r Se b at o is the r oya e o f o C e III in 1 736 an d e palac P rtici , built by harl s , a mil furthe r o n that calle d th e Fav orita situat e d in the village o f d h an ie n t to n of R esi n a . Un er t ese two places is buri e d the c w

H ERC ULANEUM from its n am e an d th e t estim on y of Strabo an d Dion isius of Halic arn a ssus t he fou n dati on of this city can safely b e 5 3 Of Naples .

d to e o o f a t lr ib uted t o the Phoen icia n H e rcul es , an a p ri d

sixty y e ars b e fo re that o f Tr oy . I ts situati on on the co ast r e n d e re d it o n e o f the ri

n n e an e e o chest citi e s of C ampa ia . I habit d at arly p ri d by t h e Os ei th e Etr usca n s an d t h e Sam n it e s it a ft e rwards fell u n d e r th e d omin i on o f the Gr e eks b e cam e a mu n i e ip e l t own an d r o m an c o l o n y ; i n t he latt e r t im e s of the R e pub lic it Was ﬁll e d with v illas 5 its rui n s i n dica t e t hat aft e r Na pl e s a n d C apua it was the ﬁ n est an d m ost

a opul en t city o f C mpa n ia . ° T he e ar thquak e o f th e 63 year of o ur e r a did c on sider ab le i n jury t o H e rc ula n e um but it was c o mpl e t ely

e th e on in 9 o e buri d by e rupti o f Ve suvius 7 , which was m r viol en t tha n a ny which had t ak e n place duri n g the pr e

e n 1 en n th e o n e ho an e e c di g 8 c turi e s . Pli y y u g r w was y Wit n ess at Misen um d escribe s this e r upti on in his l e tt e r to

h n m H n an d Slab i Tacitus . T e t o w s o f Po p e ii e rcula e um a we re cov e r e d with v olca n ic substa n ce s ; by t h e excavati o n s mad e at H e rcula n e um it is as c e rtai n e d that n o t l e ss tha n

six o the r e rupti o n s have co v er e d th e city si n ce that 0 1 79 .

Th d o n e a n e isco v e ry f He rcula um w s d ue t o cha c e . In 1 6 89 so m e i n habita n ts of R esi n a h a vi n g dug to a d epth o f 65 fee t in se arch o f a w ell fo u n d r e mai n s o f valuabl e

m e a n arbl s d i n scripti on s r e lative to He rcula n eum . In 1 720 h ’ t e pri n c e d Elb aeuf r e quiri n g marbl e fo r his villa at Po r e tici , r esum d the s e e xcavati o n s an d disc o v e r ed s ev eral st a t u e s ; the s e circumsta n c e s r ecall ed t o mi n d He rcula n eum but furth e r r e s earch e s we re prohibit ed by g o v e r n m e n t fo r e of n n the o n o n o e o f ar i juri g f u dati s fth h us e s at Re si n a . C III harl e s r e sum e d the W o rks comm e n c e d by t he ’ n d Elb eeu h pri c e f ; t e wo rkm e n h a d p e n etrat e d scarc ely

65 e e in th e e f t w ell wh n th e y fou n d a la pidary in s cr ip

on a n d o e e n of o n ze e e r o ti s m r mai s br qu stria n statu e s . P c e edin i n an o on e o n t wo s g h riz tal dir cti mai bl e s tatu e , r en t an d the e e e e o f agm s , th atr w r disc ver ed . ’ 5 4 En ver ons

At R esi n a is th e O p en i n g o f an e xcavatio n l eadi n g by a n arrow passag e t o the gr e at the atr e 390 fe e t in circum fe re n ce havi n g a ﬁn e facad e and marble c olumn s pl a c ed o n h e e t s tag . The str e e ts w er e wide an d pav ed with lava similar t o that o f t he lat e e rupti on s o f Ve suvius The forum was of a r e cta n gular fo rm 228 fe e t in l e n gth surro un d e d with a po rtico supporte d by 42 colum n s it was e n t e re d by ﬁve arcad e s o v e r which wer e e qu e stria n statu e s a nd c o mmun icat e d by a n othe r p ortico with two t e mpl e s each

n t e ar e f oo 1 50 fe e t l on g . I he ho us s which o a g d styl e of u n of o e o le o f s archit e ctur e q a titi es b ttl s , g b ts thick gla s

ses an d n s en on [E n e e va , ma u cripts writt gyptia papyrus w r n t h n a n d o e t h o n fo u d ; e almo ds th r fruits , e c r , br e ad , the furn iture an d bro n ze ut en sils had n o t suffe red any cha n ge . The e di ﬁces discov e r ed hav e b een ﬁlled up a ne w ; t e on n n s l e e s i n h marbl e s , br ze s pai ti gs cu ptur s , m dal , s cr i tion s n e n o f ar t on e an d o the r u t e nsils p , i strum ts br z , hav e b e e n tra n sferr e d t o th e Mus eo B or b on n ico at Naples.

MO UNT VE SUVIUS

Is situat e d b e tween two m o u n tai n s o n e call ed the o the o tta an o o e e e e o n S mma , th e r O j th ugh s parat d th s m u t ai n s have a c ommon ba se it is suppos e d that fo rm e rly t h ey w e r e u n it e d an d that the ir s e parati o n is due t o a n

h a t e e rupti on which r en de re d th e m crate rs . Ve suvius s h fo of a co n e e e n e 35 73 e e the rm , its p rp dicular h ight is f t , circumfe r e n c e of the three m o u n tai n s at the bas e is 30 miles .

t o th s o . e Thr ee r oads le ad e ummit , that f S S bastia n t the n o o f t a an o to the e of R e n o rth O t j ast , si a , which is th e o e e n e t o t he es . R e n ar e c o n duc m st fr qu t d , w t At si a t o s ho s e s t th u e en r w e rv as guid e o the crater, e circ mf r ce f 24 ee o which is 56 f t .

5 6 Envir ons o f ashe s thus ren d e ri n g it i n con t e stable that ﬁve eruptions

o o e o f 7 9 o e t h f ll w d that which d e str y d e city . ’ A e the e of To e d l o d lln a ft r villag s rr e Gr e c , e A n un ziat an d on the Sale r n o r oad 1 2 mil es fr o m Napl e s is

P OMPEII The fo un dati on o f this city is attribut e d t o He rcul es ; the e o o o f n e is n o t n o n n b ed tym l gy its am k w , but it Was i ha it by n atio n s havi n g a co mm on o rigi n with t he p e opl e o f

H e n e the O s c i t he E n Pe l n a n d rcula um , , trusca s , asgia s Sam

d n oo n it e s . Th e i n habita n ts o f Pomp e ii an He rcula eum t k f ai ms in the so cialwa r in o rd e r t o o btai n t h e quality o R o n n 6 o f R o e fo n e ma citiz e n s . I the y e ar 6 5 m Sylla u d d at Po mp e ii a c olon y t o which he assig n e d o n e third o f I ts t e rrit o ry . This t ow n Situate d n ear the rive r Sar no an d h avi n g h a por t which accordi n g t o Livy an d Fl orus r e ceiv ed t e ee t o f C o n e a th e n a o n o f e of No ﬂ r lius , w s e c tr l p i t trad la , Nocera Acerr a plac es o f impo rt a n ce at that p eriod this d e o o ln e o n t o trad e an th fe rtility f its s i r e d e r d it , acc rdi g

an d n n e o th e o t o o es of Tacitu s Se eca , o f m s p pul us citi n C ampa ia . Un d e r the con sulat e o f Regulu s an d Virgin ius in th e

636 e o e e fr om t he y ar f C hrist , P o mp e ii suff re d s e v e r ly e arthquak e which o ccurr e d o n th e 5 fe bruary ; the c rup ti o n o f 79 c o v e re d it with a p r odigi ou s qua n tity of ashes

a n d l n smal st o es . Allh ough it is asserte d b y histo ria ns that Po mpe u was d e st r o ye d o n this o ccasi o n t ha t fact d oe s n o t app ear

t o b e e e on e T s admissibl , as Su t ius re lat s that itu e mpl oyed

e n t o e th e o n an d Dio t m a s r pair t w , adds that wo con suls we res e n t by the sam e e mp e ro r who e stab lishe d col on i es o an H at P mpe ii d e rcula n e um . I t may b e c on j e ct ur ed tha t a part o n ly o f thes e t own s r e mai n ed buri ed u n d e r the o n v lca ic s ubsta n ce s while the othe r part was r ep eopled cc f 5 7 Of Np es. un tilthe sub sequ en t e rupti on s dro v e away their imb abi

he o n e o e e H e n e m ta n ts . T v lca ic matt r which c v r d rcula u i n 7 9 con sist ed of ash e s an d st o n e s in a stat e of ig n iti on f h e e n e n n t hat at P omp e ii o ashes o n ly . T ediﬁce s r mai d u i

e t he oo o n e e e n e r oof th at the e jur d , r fs al w r rui d , a p ash s

th o o f n an d n o in o e e an d fe ll in e f rm rai t v lum s , th ir dry

a th n o n n light qu lity pr eserv ed e buildi gs, m saics , pai ti gs

an d ut e n sils .

Dio e an d his O n on e en o e ass rts , pi i has b ad pt d by

th n t h e n n o the r writ e rs , that duri n g e e rupti o i habita ts were at th e th e atr e wh ere th e y w e r e buri e d u n d e r t he

O n o n t h n e an d ashes , but this pi i is co n tradict e d by e atur acti on of v o lca n o es a n d particula r ly o f Ve suvius th e e r a p t i on s o f which ar e always pr ec ed e d by sig n s which l e av e tim e t o pr ovid e for i n dividual safe ty an d by th e fa c t that o n e sk el e to n al on e was fo u n d in t he th e atr e a n d n ot m o r e

in th e o n o e on ho e e n e tha n sixty t w , pr bablyp rs s w w r u abl t o m o v e o r who r emai n e d in hop es of s e e i n g th e calamity

e se c a . / Ab o ut t h e middl e o f last cm r y som e traces of

o n in n n i r a e II P o mpeii we re f u d pla ti g a v dey a d . C h rl s I o rd e r e d e xcavati o n s which hav e ba en carri e d o n with

r e h a m or e o l ss activity u n tilt e pr e s e n t d y . It has b ee n o bse rve d that th e v olca n ic ash e s w e r e n o t all plac e d in their n atural o rd e r thus l e adi n g t o the b eli e f t hat aft e r the e rupti on of 79 t he in h a b it an ss r e tur n e d t o th eir h o us es in search o f th e pr O pe r ty which th ey had n ot pr e vi o usly a carri ed aw y .

T e e ouse ar e o ose of o n r o h s h s c mp d e o tw st ori es , n n o e in ge erally e cl s d a square co urt surr o u n d e d with por o e e the oo ar e tic s wh r d rs plac e d . In t he c en tr e o f the

o ellO r e e o o f c urt is a w r s rv ir wat e r . Th e r o o ms o n th e gr oun d fl oor ar e witho ut i n t e r n a l c o mmu n icati o n the y ar e s l t h mal but l ofty, e gr eat e r part witho ut wi n d ows e e th l r c ive e ight from t he door have a ce ili n g an d ar e 3 K 5 8 Envir ons pav e d with m osaic ; th e walls ar e co vered with ﬁgures an d

e le o n e r ed or e o archit ctura vi ws a whit y ll w gr ou n d . The ho us e o f Ar r i us D iomede s situat e d in th e suburb s F li Pagu Augus t o e ix n the directi on of Vesuvius Was th e o It ﬁrs t di sc v ered . s in t e ri or is a lon g square surrou n d e d with a po rtico supp o rt e d by stucco e d pila s t e r s ; in the middl e was a small gard en with six colum ns a ba si n of white marbl e an d a w e ll ; so me of th e roo ms ar e pai n ted o n r ed o n e an d e a gr u d with ﬁgur s arab sque s . A skel e t on s upposed t o b e that of Di o m e de s was fo u n d h er e holdi n g in o n e n k in th o n an ha d a ey, e other c i s d g old or n am en t s ; e n n o e o n on e an d e b hi d this a th r h ldi g br z silv r va se s . Un de r th e gard en p o rtic o is a c e llar which c on tai n e d ma n y o f the t e r n va ses us e d by h a n ci e n ts fo pre s e rvi g wi n e . Two stair case s le ad t o th e se c on d st o ry plac e d in t h e midst of a co v er e d c ourt with 1 4 brick s tucc oed colum ns an d a m osaic pave m en t . The t omb o f the Arria family t o the left of the house b ears the i n scripti on t hat it Was rais e d by M. Arrius Dio

th e e n o f C . O n th e C on o m edes , e fr dma aj a sular r ad which pass e d t hr ough t he t own a r e the t o mbs O f Ne vo laj a Ty

n t o ale n i e che s an d o f his son C . Mu a ius f C v t us Qui tus a as e for b a e n d o fSc a ur us . The last w r e markabl its s r e li fs e e sen n es of o s e n in s co r pr ti g gam gladiat r , which b i g tuc

e n n e e e ar e e e en hav e p erish d . O o the r rui d diﬁc s r pr s t e d n ien s cen es r elative t o t he privat e life o f the a c ts . The r o ad is pav e d with larg e bl ock s of v olca n ic ston e an d is

1 2 an d 1 4 n The o e e e d s n s fee t i br eadth . h us s w r i ti gui hed n o t by n umb e rs as at pr e sen t but by pai n t ed sig n s ; t o t he right on e n t eri n g th e city is one which fr o m th e ut en sils fou n d in the i n t e ri o r pr obably b elon g ed to a wh eel

Wright . The o the r buildi n gs in this stre e t ar e a sh op r ese m ln a s loff e o e in hot lo b i g ma l c e h us which iqu rs were s old , that of Alb i n u s in which were found n ume r ous small

6 0 Envir ons

The o es of Sab in us M e s f h us arc llu , o Vet tius Popi lius t he e dil e ar e situa t e d n e ar o the rs in rui n se v e ral e d fi e e b n n i c s hav ee u co v e re d an d afte rwards fill e d up as t h e volca n ic; substa n c e s had b een alre ady m o v e d by th e i n habita n ts who r e tur n e d t o the ir dw e lli n gs afte r the c rup ti o n ; t o this circumstan ce may b e attribute d the wa n t o f o t o the r o fs h ou se s . In th e dir e cti on o f th e m o u n tai n ar e r e mai n s of larg e b uildi n gs richly or n am e n t e d and o f a fin e styl e of ar chi t e in cture , which we r e u n it ed the e stablishm en ts r elativ e t o e on n s e e es t he s e n e an d fin s. r ligi , gym a tic x rcis , ci c s e art

PORTI C O Aft e r pa ssi n g through a smallc ourt we m ee t with a l on g r ow of ﬁn e c o lumn s plac e d o n th e b illwhich co m m a nds a vi e w of th e s e a an d o f t he n eighbouri n g villas .

Th e p ortico o n the right is supporte d by tuffo co lum n s. Ne ar th e fo u n tai n i n th e c e n tre o f t h e c o urt is the p e d estal

o f th e e o f C s M e son of C a us th e a statu laudiu arc llus , j , p

n o n t r o n ofth e c ol o y o f Po mp e ii . Th e p ortic is supp ort e d o

o n e e 56 ffo ol n on t h e o e t he of sid by tu c um s , th r by Wall

h r n t e th eatr e fo tragic r e pr e s en tatio s.

Near t he o n ar e n o e n le le last c lum rui s fth pri cipa t mp , t h e pla n o f whieh is a parall el o gram 9 1 fe e t l o n g an d 63

th n a t h e an d th e u es wid e . To e ight r e city walls lava q arri

which pr o vid ed buildin g mat e rials fro m tim e imm e m orial . Th e larg e stair cas e o f the tragic the atre leads to the o e t he e oo pro scen ium a n d t th e public plac e . O v r upp r d r o f th e co v e r e d gall ery is an i n scripti o n t o Rufus an d Cel e r Holconius wh o rais e d th e th eatre an d tribun alat th eir

or th e e e n of t he o n own exp en se f mb llishm e t c l o y .

n o a r ET M M onc m v v s C ELEB .

c av r r am T RIB VNAL T H EAT RVM.

s p . AD n ee vs COLO NI A L OfNaples. 6 1 Near this door is the larg e basin or r eservo ir which le o th o the t h supp i d wat e r t e f rum ; wat ers of e Sarn o , a e n s e o the e of th e o n ft r havi g pa s d thr ugh upp r parts t w , u n it ed in this basi n an d w er e aft e rward s distribut ed in the lo wer quart e r s . Adj o i n i n g thi s is a mark e t place of a square fo r m surrou n d e d with a p o rtico o f e igh t flut ed Pip e r n o colum n s on o ne sid e an d thre e o n th e oth e r ; withi n t he e diﬁ ce is a s t on e chair a sce n d ed b ya flight of st e ps ; thi s was the tri bun al m e n ti on e d in th e pr e c e di n g i n scripti on . O n the public way is the t e mpl e o f Isis d estroyed by t he e arthquak e that o cc urr e d 1 6 ye a r s b e fo r e t he e rupti o n of 79 an d was r ebuilt b y Num e nius C elsin us as asc e rtai n e d by th e i n scripti on placed o v er th e fro n tispic e n ow in t h e

e le . Its e n 84 e 74 e e mus um at Nap s l gth was , its br adth f t , the p ortico has 8 sid e a nd 6 fr on t co lum n s o f the d o ric o rd e r ; at the e n d o f the t e mpl e s e v e n st e ps l ead t o an is olat ed sa n ctuary fo rmi n g a s ma llsquar e ediﬁc e c o v e r e d with stuccoe s with two n iches at t h e fr on t an d on e on th e o pp o sit e sid e the fron t was t ermi n at ed by t wo isiac table s n ow in the Napl es mus e um . A smallbut e l e ga n t v e stibul e supp ort e d by six eo lumn s surr o u n d e d the altar o n which fragm en ts of a statu e U t o f Isis we r e fo u n d . n d e r h e altar is a roo m fr o m whi ch issu ed the oracl e s d eliv e r e d in th e n am e of th e g odd ess ; th e p r ivat e stair case c o mmu n icati n g with thi s r oom still

t o t he fo r n e xist s . Th e altar l e ft was us e d bur i n g t he vic

t o the fo r e e n t h e e he . tims , that right pr s rvi g sacr d as s This t empl e was on e of t h e pri n cipal e diﬁces of Pom pen ; i t c on tai n e d th e isiac tabl es an d n um ero us pai n ti n gs e n n th e n e c ar re pres ti g Isis with Sistrum , A ubis , pri sts r in n es o f alm or e of c or n th e o o s y g bra ch p ars , hipp p tamu , n n l t he ibis , arabesques bird s dolphi s , n um ero us ut e si s an d bro n ze instr um en ts ; allth ese obj ect s ar e n owin the museum . 6 2 En vir ons

S e ve ralchamb ers place d in t he i n teri o r we r e pr o bably us ed as habitatio n s by th e pri e sts o f lsis in o n e was fo un d a sk el et on h oldi n g an ir on bar with which two walls had b e en partly brok en . The con sular r oad is cross ed by a n o ther stre e t t hus

In the en f dividi n g th e city i n t o four e qual part s . c tr e o t he e le of Escula ius e of ffo n n e t mp p is a larg altar tu , i st e ps l ead t o th e sa n ctuary which was pr obably cov e re d judgi n g fro m the trace s o f its falle n c olum n s . O n e of t he m os t curi o u s disco v e ri es at Pompei i is ’ t he sculpt o r s studi o which con tai n ed se ve ralmarbl e st a t es so e n e o e e e o e o ut n e u , m ﬁ ish d , th rs m r ly r ugh d , qua titi s

f e e or o e e n s an d ool o marbl d esti n d f th r works , ut sil t s

in th e e N e t he o l e o n n ow acad my at apl s , h us e is arg , ar u d the c ourt is a p ortico of t e n brick co lumn s cov ered with s tucco . T HE CO VERE D T HEATR E

The t wo c on t iguous theatr es ar e se parat e d by a por e tico . The ﬁrst was us d for co mic an d satirical r e pr esen t ali on s t he s e con d larg e r and of a b e tt e r style o f archi t e the th e cture fo r trag edy . O v r d oo r of e co mic theatre is an i n script ion purp orti n g tha t a it was built with the fu n ds which the Duumvirs Caius Qui n tius th e son ofGains a n d Marcus Po rcius had s tipulat ed to rai se the c o v e red theatr e in con sequ e n c e of a d e cr ee r en d e r e d by t he de

curi on s . As it was n o t cus to mary amon gst the a n ci en t s to ligh t th e ir th e atres it has dr eat e d surprize that this sh o uld hav e been co ver e d but Philos t rate s m en ti on s a similar

e e o n n on e Ro t h e e nd of t he diﬁc at C ri th , Pli y at m e ; s emicircular walli n dicat e s the plac e of the c olum n s thro ugh which sufﬁci e n t light p e ne trat e d t o illumi n at e the n io l e s ind f e e as le Odeon . i t r r , thi k o th atr w ca d

6 4 E iro nv ns. t inat ion of the ldin d bui gs call e Chalcidicum a magi c s tatue of the pri est ess Eumachia was fo u n d her e which i s ﬁ n ely e xe cut e d an d w ell pres e rv e d ; th e i n scripti o n o n t h e p ed estali n dicat es that it was raised by the bl e ac he r s

in es on of t d . e in t h t tim y their gra itu e It is plac d e museum . A large t empl e call e d th e Pa n theon has som e ﬁn e

i n n e In no e h e F pai n t gs u d r its p or tic o . a th r part of t orum a no the r t e mpl e has b een fo u n d d edicat ed to the Pot t an ae Augustac it was e mb ellish e d acc o rdi n g t o the i n scripti o n

c . In is i ec on it b ears by M Tullius Marci ﬁlius . th d r t i t he e diﬁc e d e sti n ed fo r t he public baths that for the le hin of n n lle F ullon ic a a t he b ac g li e , ca d , n d the house of a n tragic poe t h ve also b ee discov er ed .

ST ABLA

Situated fo ur miles from. Po mp eii in the vici n ity of C ast ellam ar e was n e b th e O sci t he E n i habit d y , trusca s , the Pelasgia n s and ﬁ n ally by th e Sam n it es . These last w e r e t drive n away by t he R o ma n s u n d e r he con s ulat e o f Cat o . The tow n was aft e rward s d e stroy e d by Sylla an d r educ ed t o t h e stat e o f a simpl e villag e whe n it wa s buri ed u n d e r t he ashe s O f Vesuvius in t he erupti o n of 79 . Its rui n s hav e fur n ish ed n um e rou s papyri pres erv ed t oge ther with those of Hercula n e um in th e museum o f Naples .

SALE RNO

T o n o e the lof th e Picen tin es his t w , f rm rly capita , is the o lon n n u built at e xtre mity f a bay , its cathe dra c tai s me r o us r emai ns o f m on um en ts fro m the a n cien t city o f

ae n n of le o n s o e P stum , c o sisti g marb c lum p rphyry vas s ,

o s an d t o l e e n o se fo r the ol e m saic , w arg vas s w u d h y wat r, o n on e of which is sculpture d . the I n dia n e xp editi on of

l n and hi l i th e m s A exa d er s arriva a t Nisa , wh ch city a ba 6 Of Naples . 5 sador s supplicat e him to Spar e in c on sid erati on of Bac ch us; o n th e o the r ar e r epr es en t ed a vi n tag e an d a Baccha n alia n

n processi o . h Eight e en mil e s fro m Sal e r n o is th e Silar o n ow t e it Sele a rive r c el ebrat ed fo r t he pe t1 ify in g qualiti e s o f s f an wat ers a n d fo ur mil es from th e Silar o in th e midst o e xte nsiv e plai n is PJEST UM

e on th e e s e n o s of th e ulf o f Thi s city , situat d a t r c a t g

n as o e n e in th e o n e o fLucan ia . Sal er o , w f rm rly i clud d pr vi c e e e oen n co Its ﬁrst i n habita n ts we r e O s i , it b cam a ph icia

n a n d e e n o e t he e l o y , was subs qu tly ccupi d by Sybarit s

n o e n e n e o n ea an d t h e Sam n it e s . O s m a ci t m dals f u d at P s

rn e n of th e O sc i an e Ne n e t o t u is the l eg d , with arm d ptu

Wh om th e city was d e dicat ed . The buildi n gs o f Paestum hav e a p eculiar charact e r i n dicati n g th e ir d o ri e o rigi n an d th e i n fa n cy of a r t their s o lidity 1 esultin g fro m e n orm ous bl ocks of squar e st on e t he archit e cture of th e t e mpl e s diffe ri n g fro m th e rul e s o f

s th e o n ot o n t o th e e e Vitruviu , h us es built acc rdi g gr k

e t o t h e o n e n en e o for e all styl but c v i ci s s ught at that tim , these Circumsta n ce s a n no u n c e that t he ﬁrst col on ists of Paestum w er e Phoen icia n s an d r e call t o mi n d t h e i n cli n a ~

' tion of that peO ple for s olid an d durabl e Wo r ks . Wh e n th e city fell u n d e r the d omi n i o n o f the Syb a es a e o e o f e n n fo r rit , p pl Gr cia o rigi c e l e brat ed the ir luxury and e ae a e e e de e e of S e nd rich s , P stum cquir d a gr at r gr pl our .

The t he e e an d o n walls , t mpl s ther buildi gs w e re e mbel lished an d th e r e mai n s sh ow an e vid en t di ffe r e n c e b e tw een th e e o o f e n n t h p ri ds th ir co structi o , e o n e b e i n g rough an d m s e th o an as iv , e th e r light d e l ega n t . h T e Sybarit es wer e c o mp e ll e d t o yi eld t o th e Sam n es who in e n n e he it th ir tur fellu d r t yok e of Rom e . Aft er 6 6 Envir ons th e fall of th e empir e th e city cam e i n t o t he possess i on of

e n an d in 9 1 5 was o e the Sarac s it c mpl e t ly d e stroyed . Th e walls o f th e city d escrib e a n ellipse of 2 1 12 mil e s on an e l e vati on o f 53 fe e t th e sam e h e ight as th e o n e walls of C arthag e acc rdi g to Diodor us . Th y con si st of e n o rm o us bl o cks of st on e of a squar e o r h e xagon form som e tim e s 25 fe e t in l en gth an d ar e u n ite d in Such a e t ma n n er that th y app e ar o form but on e mass . The e n tra n ce i n to the city was by four gat es ; th e n o rth gate which al o n e r e mai n s was abo u t 50 fee t high an d was o ose o f the e e es f on th ll n c mp d sam sp ci o st e as e wa s , o e o f the has r e li efs of th e arch r e pre s en ts the Syr en of Paes d n o f th e n en tum an a d olphi , symb ls o a ci t maritim e p eople t ha t fo u n d e d the city . A rampart e n cl ose d withi n t he walls presen t e d a s e con d m e a n s o f d efe n ce t o the citad el n r m wh e n the gat e s o f the city w ere fo rce d . I th e in te e diat e Space a r e t h e quart e rs of t he s o ldi e rs an d th e pave m en t of the a n ci en t r oad : the ramparts we re pro te cted by e ight square towers so m e o f which stille xi st . B eyon d the we st er n gat e ar e s everalrui n s of tomb s co ve re d with pai n ti n gs n e ar which We r e fo u n d an armour of greek workma n ship an d so m e b eautifulva ses on e of which is o rn am en t ed with t en ﬁgures an d gr eek inscr ip

on n n t i on s . O n e He rcules is re prese n t ed se izi g the gold e appl e in th e gard en of th e H esp e rid es in d espite of the

n . drago Th ese works ar e in the Napl es mu se um . The m os t remarkable of th e rui ns of Paestum is

T HE T EMPLE O F NEP T UNE c o mp osed O f en orm ous blocks of square st on e in the fo rm

i a r 1 6 h t s es of a quadr lte 9 fe e t lon g an d 7 5 wid e . T e wo id of th e portico ha ve six flut ed c olumns of the d oric ord er s upporti n g a larg e b as r elief an d a fron ti spi ece similar to t hat of the Pa n theon at R om e on th e sid es of the temple

6 8 Envir ons / Th e e e n l 85 ee in en an d 44 xt r a part is f t l gth , in br eadth 5 t he portico con sists of 1 3 colum n s o n th e lat e ral an d 6 o n th e on e f e o e and e n on fr t sid all lut d , with ut bas 5 r sti g the o e o f the e e e o n n t h e e l w st thr st ps surr u di g t empl ,

e e 1 n e e th ir h ight is 6 a d th e ir diam e t e r 4 feet . Th c lla was supp orte d by six c olum n s i t was e n cl o s e d on th e fo ur sides by walls an d still o ffe rs trac es of t he sa n ctuary a nd lt e n h a ars us d i t e sacriﬁces.

T HE C URIA OR PORTI CO

ls op en on all sid es an d is supp osed to have serve d for 1 69 n th o a public walk 5 it is fee t lo g an d 85 wid e , e c lumn s ar e ﬂut ed d oric with o ut bas e r e sti n g o n t h e thr ee

o n n n th e o ar e e ee n oln s surr u di g st e ps . O e e xt ri r ight c um ,

e e n thr ce n traland t wo late rali th e v estibul e . The p ortico was divid e d i n t o two e qualparts by a r ow of colum n s plac ed in a right li n e thr e e o f which s till e xist ; th e adj oi n i n g pav e m en t is el evat e d in o rd e r t o af fo rd a s e parat e plac e fo r th e m agistrat es a n d pri n cipalci t izen s 5 the c olum n s ar e a diam e t e r an d a half fro m each o e st n e e e t n on th e e ol n s th r , a di a c gr at r ha that sid c um , T e e di which l e av e s a s uffici en t spac e to tak e e x e rcice . h fice is of an el ega n t styl e of archite ctur e as app ears by t he fin e form of t h e c olum ns an d capital s which ar e m or e o n en e n o e o f th e l s in n a r am t d tha th s t e mp es , thu dicati g

’ se o c n d p eri od of th e d oric o rd e r .

C A SERTA

The a n ci e n t t own o f C ase r t a is situat ed in th e Ti phatin m o u n tai n s th r e e mil e s fro m th e palace which was built by Charle s Illn e ar a n ci en t C apua sixt ee n mil es n o rth of Napl es . Of Naples.

T IlE PALAC E

f n e Was comm en ce d in 1 752 on th e d esig n s o Va vit lli , an d is c on sid ered t o b e th e m ost mag n iﬁce n t in Italy . o e n on en o f 7 46 e Its f rm is r cta gular a l gth , a br adth o f 7 an d of 1 1 3 fe e t . In e of the o e of 5 6 , a h eight ach st ri s t he two pri n cipalfag ades ar e thirty six wi n d ows with o n an d e o e s the o n e t he e c lum s , squar t w r at f ur a gl s 5 facad is c o mpo s ed o f two c olum n s an d two pilast e rs with ﬁve

n n t h n an wi d ows . The c e tre of e e diﬁc e is surm ou t e d by o ctag on cup ola ; th e gr e at e n tra n ce l eads to a p ortico fo rm ed o f 98 colum n s o f Sicilia n marbl e 507 fee t lon g ; fo ur sid es o f the thre e octag on v e stibul e s l ead t o fo ur larg e courts of th e o th e r two on e u n it e s with th e stair ca se t h e o ther is occ upi ed by t h e statu e o f gl o ry crowned by o ar 299 e on an d 1 6 e the Hercul es . The c urt s e f e t l g 3 wid 5 facad es o f the buildi n g ov e r the c ourts a r e c omp os e d of C aserta marble an d di stribut ed in as man y co v er ed arche s men s over Which are the apart t . i The st a r ca se con sist s of a hu n dre d marble st ep s e ach 1 9 1 12 fe e t in len gth th e walls ar e i n laid with co

~' l o ur ed rr ar b le ; at t he foot o f the stairs ar e two li on s of a ﬁn e styl e of sculptur e t h e statu es in the n ich es r epr e n t a es a d m s e t tru h m j ty , n e rit . Th e v estibul e on t h e sid e stair ca se of an o ctagon o o e 24 o f rm is supp rt d by c ri n thia n c olum n s . The chap e l may b e co mpar e d t o a larg e Splen did church in which ar e 1 6 c olum n s o f g r e e n Sicilia n marbl e ; the high altar is ado r n e d with fo ur y ell ow c olum n s 5 n ear t h e e e n n e t o th e th th e n gr at tra c we st is e th e atre, gard e s a r h e t owards t e n orth .

T HE AQ UE D U C T

The t e rritory o f Airola is abu n da n tly suppli ed with wat er by n i n e di ffe r en t spri n gs which u n it ed with the 7 0 Envir ons

’ F en e s n n e . de Gothi o n the a za , a str am pa si g ar S Agata j i n n e Volturn o . A aqu educt built by Va vit lli n ow bri n g s t o e n e in s ln e f 1 2 the m C as rta , a dista c a traight i o mil es 2 but am oun ti n g t o 7 with the si n u o siti es . In buildi n g t he aqu e duct an obstacl e presen t e d its elf in two high m oun tai n s s e parat ed by t h e vall ey of th e Mad dalo u e t h e se we r e p e rforat e d at a place call ed Prat o o n a l en gth o f 1 1 00 t oi ses in t he tuffo : at C i esco of 980 o f

5 70 no an d 3 B o n lne of 2950 at Garga , 00 at cca formi g a i

t oise s .

th e o n n es e s The bridg e is p i t of ju n cti o o f th e wat r , an d is admir e d for its architectur e : it c on si sts of a triple r ow o f arch e s placed o ve r e ach o the r : the ﬁrst r ow is

o e o f 1 9 the e on of2 an d t h e of 43 es . f rm d , s c d 7 third arch 49 Th e pilast e rs o f t he fir s t r ow a r e 33 feet thick an d th 1 high eaqu educt Was co mple ted in 759 .

. e o n e C as e is lk n o At S L uci ar rta , a si ma ufact ry which suppli es m ean s of subsisten ce to hu n dreds of per n h n n t t i es SO s o f t e i dig e cla ss. At a di sta nce of twen y m l from Caserta an d thirty se v en from Naples is

BENEVENTO

A city supp os ed to hav e b e en fo un d e d b y B i o m ed ki n g o f Eto lia 477 y e ars b e fo re t he R o ma n e r a . It was o n ce i n habit ed by th e Sam n ite s an d b ecam e a Roma n co l o n y : t h e amphitheatre is n owc ov e r ed wi th m o d ern ho use s th e Se n at e rais e d a n arch t o Traja n which at pr e s e n t form s o n e of t he gat e s .

n n o O u e th e o s in 490 B e e ve t was cc pi d by G th , by th e Lo mbards in 5 7 1 in 7 87 it cam e u n d e r th e d omi n i o n o f C harl emag n e wh os e su cc ess o rs pre serv ed it u n til 9 1 en e e h k the 8 wh th y we re driv n away by t e Gr ee s . At

e f e . h n e o tim o Leo t h 9 t it was excha g d f r Bamberg , a

I ND E X .

UR EY om R o e t JO N fr m o Naples .

By T e rraci n a .

e Vell tri .

e n C ist r a . on n e M P ti arsh es .

Te rraci n a .

F o n l. di , tri M o e e . la di Ga ta , Ga ta C apua

Ave rsa . URNEY o f H JO orace .

Mon a n o By t e c ssi .

The F n e uci lak e . NAPLES ’ e o d Alb rg e Po veri . t C a acombs .

C e o o ast l Nu v . ’ a e o d ll U v o .

S . Erm o

Ch ch . n o n ur es 5 A t i o .

S . Giaco m o

i e o S . Maria p di gr tta delpart o c d e gli a n g eli

n o . S . Marti

S . Spirit o .

C amaldo li .

o e e M n t Oliv t o .

T n a o r e un ri it G s u ov o.

S . Chiara . o n Chur ches S D m e ic o Maggi ore .

S . S e v e ra

o . S . Pa ol

S . Lor en zo.

S . Filipp o Neri

o . S . Ap stoli

A n n un ciati on . D el n C armi e. Capuchi n

S . Pr o c ulus

G es uVe cchi o .

S . Ja n uarius

S . Theresa . Sludu P ala ces Toled o n Cap o di Mo t e . D ella Vicaria Cas erta Po rtici

Piazze Ca stel Nu o v o .

o . S . Spirit Mon t e O live tt o

D elMe rcat o . o F lon e Pizz a c . o ili P s ppo. C T hea tr e s 5 . arl o

en Fi o r ti n i .

Fon d o .

S . Carli n o .

Tomb of V i r g il. P ozzuoli

Amphith eatre . C oast

Lak es Lucr in . Av er n o. n n Ag a o . Ach e ron . Mise n um

o Gr tta delC a n e . Solfatara Te e o f mpl Augustu s . o f Se rapi s Villa of Cice ro

s f Bath o Nero .

en o ame C t C r elle . oa C st of. Liter n um

Arch of Trajan . H r cula e e n um.

P ompe ii Ho s o u e f B i om ed .

Portico . Te mple of Isis . e T mpl e of Esculapius. Amphitheatre Fo rum

Theatres.

V e suvius. b St alia Sa er n o .

P aestum .

T n empl e of Ne ptu e .

of C er es . C uria or p ortico

Unive rs ity of C alifo rnia SOUTHERNREGIO NALLIB RARY FACILITY 4 Hil An l A 2 - 05 g ard Ave nue , Los g e e s , C 9 00 4 1 388 Re turn this mate rialto t he lib rary h w rr w fromwhic it as b o o e d .

AUP L 1992