CONTENTS From the Editors The only local voice for news, arts, and culture. MARCH 2021 A place at the table Editors-in-Chief his issue, we’re taking ourselves out for an an- Brian Graham & Adam Welsh Erie’s Independent Alternative niversary dinner. Managing Editor Publication Turns 10 – 4 Make that 11 — one for each of the 10 years Nick Warren A Reader retrospective on a decade of issues, T Copy Editor the Erie Reader has been in print (since 2011), with a Matt Swanseger and the people who made them happen much-deserved bonus for our most recent jubilee. Contributing Editors A Clear Lesson – 7 Almost exactly a year ago, we published our last reg- Ben Speggen ular biweekly print edition before COVID-19 rudely Jim Wertz Erie Coke closure proves impact of slapped the serving platter out of our hands and left Contributors concerted environmentalist efforts us picking up the pieces. The theme of that publica- Liz Allen tion, ironically, was “The Food Issue,” with “10 of Erie’s John Bavaro A Touch of the Tucci in Erie – 8 Can’t Miss Dishes’’ as the main entree. The date that Charles Brown Jonathan Burdick Italian food traditions abound here issue hit the stands — March 11, 2020 — was inciden- Symoné Crockett tally also the same day the World Health Organiza- Anne Helms Tough as a Mother: Working Moms Fight tion declared the novel coronavirus a global pandem- Ally Kutz For Balance During the Pandemic – 10 ic. Christopher Lantinen Tommy Link Moms living and working in Erie County report long Anyone in the restaurant industry could tell you Brad Pattullo hours and mom-guilt throughout the pandemic about what it is to be knocked off balance — odd and Dan Schank unusual requests, finicky or belligerent customers, Melissa Sullivan Shimek RUSafe App Gives Life-saving call-offs and no-shows, broken equipment and miss- Ryan Smith Forest Taylor Help to Abuse Victims – 12 ing ingredients — it’s all just part of the business. Bryan Toy Free interactive app identifies key signals of But shutdown orders and empty dining rooms for Marie Turko months on end? For most, the effect has been seis- Amy VanScoter abuse in intimate partner relationships mic; for some, it’s shattered their entire operations. Larry Wheaton Hannah Wyman Female Journalism Takes Flight – 14 Around 9,600 Erie County jobs were lost in the leisure and hospitality sector by the time the Reader ran its Photographer Barbara Hawley reached new altitudes Jessica Hunter next issue on May 20 of last year. Some of those jobs for her profession in Erie Intern have since been recouped, but compared to other ar- Kimberly Firestine Romolo Chocolates in Master Class of Its Own – 16 eas of the country, recovery has been — as they say Cover Design on the barbecue circuit — low and slow. Nick Warren Four generations of immaculate confections It’s 2021 now, and the thematic lazy Susan has spun 11 Can’t Miss Dishes Around Town – 20 all the way back around to “The Food Issue” — an- 1001 State St. Suite 1315 other multi-course meal of tasty features celebrating Erie, Pa., 16501 Must-try menu selections from the Erie area local fare, because supporting area restaurants not [email protected] Dan Kern Has Something New to Say – 23 only feeds our bellies, but also a vital segment of our economy and our culture. Sit down to a home-cooked The Erie Reader is published every The chef reflects on the decade of 1201 other week and distributed at over Italian feast with Liz Allen. Visit the most magnif- 350 high foot-traffic locations in Kitchen and teases out his new venture icent chocolate factory this side of Willy Wonka as Pennsylvania from North East to John’s Wildwood Pizza Is Warming Up – 24 Matt Swanseger checks in with perennial Best of Girard to Edinboro. In addition to Erie winner Romolo Chocolates, where confectionery appearing in print, Erie Reader The much-loved local pizzeria sets their is an art form. Meanwhile, Ben Speggen catches up adds new content daily at ErieReader.com as well as social sights on an Edinboro reopening with another noted culinary artist, Dan Kern, about media sites. All rights reserved. All his next venture after 1201 Kitchen (where the Erie content © Flagship Multimedia, Movie Reviews – 27 Reader Launch Party was held, by the way, on March Inc, 1001 State St., Suite 1315, Malcolm and Marie and Fern 28, 2011). Erie, Pa, 16501. No part of this You’ll have to wait a while for that to open (Labor publication may be reproduced Book Reviews – 28 Day-ish), but in the meantime there are still myri- without permission. The opinions Nonfiction from Talia Lavin and Melissa Gould of our columnists and contributors ad ways to support local — may we recommend the are their own and do not always Our Monthly Podcast Picks – 31 11 “Can’t Miss Dishes” we alluded to earlier? And no reflect that of the editorial board matter whether you’re ready to resume dining in or or organization. Direct sales Too Long, Didn’t Watch, You’re Wrong would rather continue carrying out, be sure to pro- inquiries to 814.314.9364. For About, and Stuff You Should Know pose a toast to the women in your life. Although editorial inquiries, email contact@ ErieReader.com. March is when we officially observe Women’s History Keep It Classy And Buttoned Up With blouses. – 32 Month, we all know that without them, there is no Local post-hardcore band formed during history. The Reader certainly wouldn’t be what it is quarantine has a killer new album to show for it today without all the immensely talented females who have contributed their thoughts, words, artistry, Music Reviews – 34 expertise, and insights over the years. Random Union, music inspired by Judas Cheers to the significant impacts women make each and the Black Messiah, Tomahawk, and every day, in our homes, in their professions, and Fred Oakman and Donny Cosla toward the betterment of everyone. And cheers to you for reading — it is because of you that we still Crossword Puzzle – 35 have a place at the community table. We savor the op- The latest stumper from David Levinson Wilk portunity to continue to serve you for years to come. March 2021 ErieReader.com | Erie Reader | 3 “ WE ARE 50 MY VOICE NO LONGER TELLS ME THAT I CAN’T, BECAUSE I KNOW THAT I CAN. - CHRISTINE Christine lost* *Actual client. These results may vary. 32 lbs and improved mood, sleep, and energy Meals on Wheels Erie is celebrating 50 years of serving nutritious meals and delivering FREE IN-PERSON & VIRTUAL CONSULTATIONS groceries to the Seniors in the County! FREE HORMONE ASSESSMENT: www.BeBalancedCenters.com 5031 Peach Street, Erie, PA 452-6930 814.636.5081 www.mealsonwheelserie.org Civic Leadership Academy 2021 The Jefferson Educational Society, Erie’s think tank for community progress, is looking for leaders to join the 2021 Jefferson Civic Leadership Academy. The program prepares Erie professionals, ages 25 to 45, for meaningful, fulfilling, and impactful engagement in their community by providing a dynamic and unique environment. The Leadership Academy fosters teamwork, growth, and learning through a transformative experience for those seeking to be change-agents for their community. Employers benefit by having employees enhance their leadership skills while developing their abilities to work in teams. In addition, employers gain access to a broad network of prominent contacts, as their employees participate in this collaborative experience. A In 2019 the Civic Leadership Academy Cohort total of 144 individuals have graduated from the Leadership Academy since 2015. in Harrisburg with Lt. Gov. John Fetterman. Take the next step now: Enroll in the Jefferson Civic Leadership Academy! To apply visit JESErie.org or call 814.459.8000 4 | Erie Reader | ErieReader.com March 2021 NEWS & VIEWS Erie’s Independent Alternative Publication Turns 10 A Reader retrospective on a decade of issues, and the people who made them happen CONTRIBUTED PHOTO people would pick it up free of charge. The original Erie Reader team — (left to right) By: Ben Speggen So whether you say March 28 or Jaimen Gallo, Brian Graham, Ben Speggen, and Adam Welsh — poses with Volume 1, en years ago, on what would have March 30, at the end of March 2021, Issue 1 during the publication’s launch party been an otherwise quiet Mon- say “Happy birthday,” because the Erie at 1201 Kitchen on March 28, 2011. Tday in March in Downtown Erie, Reader is turning 10. Pennsylvania, a crowd began to gather At the beginning, the lead-up to in its heart. As the people poured into the launch had been months in the weeklies for years — why couldn’t and 1201 Kitchen, drinks began flowing out making. Erie native Adam Welsh, one why shouldn’t Erie have one, too? from behind the bar and food out of of the Reader’s co-founders and edi- Thus came the plan: Study the indus- the basement kitchen below. There was tors-in-chief, had returned to Erie from try by scoping out every member of the music buzzing. But so were conversa- San Diego to both be closer to his fam- AAN (Association of Alternative News- tions. ily and raise his own. Upon beginning weeklies, which we admired then and The chief indicator of what was the again in Erie, Adam, an avid reader of are a proud member of now), and build topic du jour: Copies of a new newspa- the San Diego Reader, headed to news- out the team. Adam and Brian recruit- per strewn throughout the restaurant paper stands to find its Lake Erie coun- ed another childhood friend, Jaimen and clutched in the hands of those terpart.