Vol. 33 No. 3 October 2019

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP : — Japanese 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Sencha Asazuke TASTY TRAVEL: by Mitsuru Shirai Okayama Mamakari-zushi — In this issue of Food Forum, our ongoing series on Japanese tea focuses on the subtleties of sencha and its essential 6 place in washoku traditional . MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Jelly with Cubed Vegetables, Gazpacho-Style Daizu Cha-meshi Hojicha Soybean Rice — 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: 2019 YFU Kikkoman Summer Activity Supporting international youth exchange for over four decades Japanese Tea Sencha

Sweet and savory accompaniments include, from left: Ohagi ball sweets coated in sweet azuki and kinako roasted soybean fl our mixed with sugar; Sembei and okaki rice crackers; A cup of sencha.

Variations of Sencha Processing Methods to the machine were made until it In much of the world, green tea The method of making sencha came to reproduce and replace the is processed by pan-roasting, but begins with steaming tea leaves subtle and skillful techniques of sencha Japanese tea, which accounts that have been harvested from the hand-rolling, making it possible to for 80 percent of all tea consumed in fi elds. This heating process through mass-produce fi ne sencha. Most tea Japan, is steamed. Steamed sencha steaming halts the oxidation process today is made by machine, but some has a bracing, refreshing aroma and (allowing oxidation to progress high grade sencha tea varieties are contains more than other results in tea and so-called still rolled by hand, which requires . Sencha comprises a variety of ). After steaming, the great expertise. teas, from high grade sencha to more leaves are rolled in order to break Following the rolling process, common and affordable types of up their structure, which allows the tea is dried to produce sencha, hojicha and . nutrients contained within their crude green tea. Tea retailers blend High grade sencha contains cell components to be more readily aracha from different tea-growing more constituents of umami released when steeped in hot regions and harvest seasons to create compared to other Japanese teas, water. Through further rolling and combinations of fl avors and aromas and thus offers a rich, rewarding twisting, the leaves either form into to suit the tastes of their clientele. flavor. It is often presented as needle-like shapes and thin rolls, Shincha or fi rst-fl ush tea (also a gift, and served on special or they are chopped. The technique called ichiban-cha) has an especially occasions or to guests. Hojicha of rolling the leaves is particularly delicate fl avor and aroma, and is leaves are roasted after steaming, important. Until the end of the marketed at high prices. and this tea has recently become nineteenth century, tea leaves were quite popular for its pleasant predominantly hand-rolled, but as Brewing Sencha fragrance and mild taste. Bancha is tea production became mechanized The kyusu one-handled is made with tea leaves picked later in Japan, a “rolling and twisting” one of the most-often used utensils in the season; both hojicha and machine was invented in the late for the daily drinking of tea. When bancha complement daily meals. 1890s. Over the years, advancements brewing high-grade sencha for two

High grade sencha Fukamushi sencha Bancha Hojicha

2 Rolling tea leaves by machine

people, about two teaspoons— tea is carefully poured out gradually fl avored teas concocted by three or four grams, about 0.10 and portioned out evenly into several adding herbs or dried fruit to a to 0.14 ounces—of leaves are cups, so that each contains tea of sencha-based tea. recommended. Ideally, the water a similar hue. Tea is poured out to In light of the busy routines of should be between 55-60°C the last drop, to enable contemporary society, these days it (130-140°F) and the leaves steeped for delicious second servings of may be more convenient to drink for about one minute before serving; tea. Perhaps the most customary the bottled, ready-made teas that or, in the case of fukamushi deep- way in which sencha is enjoyed is are sold in stores. But when time steamed sencha, for about thirty accompanied by a sweet of some permits, enjoying sencha brewed in seconds. Water that is too hot kind, in order to complement the a kyusu has its rewards, alleviating increases the astringency and slight astringency of the tea. Those stress and granting a moment to bitterness of tea; water at lower who do not favor sweets may prefer savor the pleasures of life. Sitting temperatures of 70-80°C (160-180°F) -fl avored sembei or okaki down and relaxing with a fi ne produces a sweeter, more mellow rice crackers, or Japanese pickles. cup of sencha and a well-chosen tea with a higher amount of umami. confectionery is an indulgence Hojicha and bancha teas may be New Ways of Sencha everyone should experience. steeped in slightly hotter water of Cold-brewed sencha made with 95-100°C (200-212°F) and poured water and ice is currently popular. after brewing for around thirty This method results in a less seconds so as to appreciate their astringent brew containing more unique aromas. When serving, the umami and is, above all, very easy to make. Simply place about eight cover to ten teaspoons, fi fteen or twenty Sencha, made and served using a kyusu one-handled teapot grams (about 0.5 to 0.7 oz.) of tea leaves in a 750 ml (25 oz.) bottle of Author’s profile Mitsuru Shirai was born in 1957. After graduating water, steep in the refrigerator for from Osaka Prefecture University, he served in the several hours, then pour through a Shizuoka prefectural government and has long . Drinking this tea from been involved in the promotion of tea in his roles as general manager of planning in the World Green a wine glass allows an appreciation Tea Association; manager of Shizuoka Prefecture of both its aroma and its beautiful Tea and Agricultural Production Division; director of green color. Various new types of Shizuoka Prefecture Department of Economy and sencha are also attracting attention, Industry; and vice-director of Fujinokuni Cha no Miyako Museum (Tea Museum, Shizuoka). He is a including hybrid teas that produce qualified Japanese tea instructor, a artist the fragrance of jasmine or cherry and Chinese tea sommelier. His authored works tree leaves, and oolong tea-like include Yabukita no subete (“All about Yabukita cultivar of tea”; 2007); No no fukei (“Agricultural The beautiful green color and delicate aroma aromatic green teas. Increasingly, of cold-brewed sencha can be fully appreciated essays”; 2010-2017); and Ryokucha tsushin (“World when served in a wine glass. young people are attracted to green tea bulletin”; 2007).

FOOD FORUM October 2019 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Deep-frying chicken karaage

Karaage

Japanese deep-fried chicken, tori-no- shops, sometimes marketed karaage—called simply karaage—is as a snack to accompany drinks. said to have made its fi rst appearance Karaage tastes Even frozen karaage is available. on restaurant menus in 1930s There are many take-out karaage Tokyo. The word karaage itself, delicious, shops in Japan, each with its own strictly speaking, refers to a general hot or cold unique style. Boneless thigh or cooking method wherein seasoned breast meat is typically used, or unseasoned ingredients are coated but some shops swear by bone-in with fl our or starch and deep-fried. meat. Much of prepared karaage is Not only chicken, but fi sh, pork and Before deep-frying, the chicken made-to-order, and customers take vegetables can be prepared this way, is cut up and marinated briefl y away crispy hot chicken. but chicken karaage is so popular in a blend of soy sauce mixed Arguably, Japan’s karaage that, in Japan, people automatically with , , garlic, ginger culture is most deeply rooted in think of “chicken” when they hear and other seasonings, then coated Oita Prefecture, located on Japan’s the word “karaage.” with wheat fl our or potato starch, southern island of Kyushu—an which makes for an exceptionally area once known for its numerous crunchy outer skin and moist, chicken farms, and where people tender meat. Karaage is not only are said to eat more chicken considered a main dish at meals, compared to other prefectures. The it appears in bento lunch boxes city of Nakatsu in northern Oita, and at picnics, because it tastes in particular, boasts approximately delicious, hot or cold, and is easy sixty take-out shops specializing to eat. This is a dish made not in karaage, each with its own only at home: in convenience custom recipe—satisfying not stores, pre-made karaage is kept only residents, but drawing warm and sold right by the cash hungry tourists who visit the register to tempt the appetite; region to sample delicious Karaage in bento lunch box it is found in supermarkets and karaage variations.

4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Asazuke

The history of , availability of fresh seasonal briefl y in seasoned liquid that Japanese pickles made through vegetables, seasonings used and combines condiments like salt, fermentation, can be traced to pickling time. In recent years, dashi, vinegar and soy sauce, the eighth century. Tsukemono asazuke, a type of tsukemono all according to personal taste. are a small but indispensable made without fermentation, has Asazuke can be enjoyed like a element in washoku, the become popular. Often made at salad, as they retain the freshness Japanese traditional diet, and home, asazuke are lightly pickled, of raw vegetables. Markets sell their wide variety refl ects the mild-cured vegetables marinated various marinades for making asazuke that include dashi, fermented rice bran, sweet vinegar and other seasonings. Asazuke are popular because they can be made quickly, with minimal prep time: chop up favorite vegetables, place in a container with seasoning liquid, and squeeze the ingredients a few times to allow absorption of fl avor before placing in the refrigerator for 15 to 30 minutes. Asazuke should be eaten within a few days Asazuke, clockwise from left: Chinese cabbage, eggplant, , cucumber, carrot after being made.

TASTY TRAVEL Okayama Mamakari-zushi

Sappa (mamakari), small herring found in the Seto Inland Sea, taste best when vinegared or deep-fried as karaage. Vinegared sappa atop Okayama rice—mamakari-zushi—is an especially popular dish along the coast in Okayama Prefecture, traditionally served on special occasions. Mamakari’s delicious reputation inspired its amusing name, implying that, because it is so good, everyone keeps eating it until the rice runs out—and then must borrow (kari) rice (mama) from neighbors. Scaled and gutted with tail left on, the fi sh is salted for an hour, rinsed in vinegar, then marinated overnight in vinegar mixed with sugar and salt. The next day, the mamakari are laid atop Mamakari-zushi small hand-formed balls of sushi rice to create mamakari-zushi.

FOOD FORUM October 2019 5 DASHI JELLY WITH CUBED This recipe takes a hint from a type of gazpacho made with diced vegetables, while the dashi jelly adds a Japanese taste. This dish is VEGETABLES, delicious as a starter or as a fresh salad. Depending on preference, GAZPACHO-STYLE the proportions of dashi jelly or the vegetables may be adjusted.

From 400 ml of dashi stock, spoon 2 T into a small bowl. Add ginger juice and 1microwave until edges of the stock start to bubble.* Set aside.

Place powdered gelatin in a bowl, add 3 T cold dashi stock and wait for one minute.** 2Heat another 3 T of dashi stock in microwave, stir into gelatin until granules are Japanese cucumber completely dissolved. Add the remaining stock, ginger mixture and light color soy sauce to the dissolved gelatin. Stir, then pour the mixture into a fl at container and refrigerate until set. Appetizer serves 3-4 49 kcal Protein 4.6 g Fat 0.3 g Peel the cucumber and cut into cubes 6-8 mm / 0.2- 0.3 in., about 3/4 C. Put the (per serving) 3cubed cucumber in a bowl. Sprinkle with about 1/8 t salt and leave for 15 minutes; Dashi jelly squeeze out excess moisture from the cucumber. • 400 ml / 1 2/3 C dashi stock • Juice from 1 thumb-size knob of Peel the tomatoes and cut into 8-10 mm / 0.3-0.4 in. cubes. ginger, grated and squeezed 4 • 7 g / 1 T unflavored gelatin powder • 1 T Kikkoman Light Color Soy Sauce Blend vinegar and soy sauce in a small bowl. • 100 g / 3.5 oz. Japanese cucumber 5 • Salt • 2 medium tomatoes, 150 g / 1/3 lb. In a separate bowl, place the cubed cucumber and tomato. Add 2 t of the vinegar-soy sauce, stir and taste; add more if needed. Vinegar-soy sauce 6 • 1/2 T grain vinegar • 1 T Kikkoman Light Color Soy Sauce Remove okra stems and boil in lightly salted water for about 2 minutes until cooked; 7drain and cool. Cut lengthwise into halves or quarters, depending on size, and then • 2-3 okra, total 30 g / 1 oz. into 8 mm / 0.3 in. pieces, a bit smaller than the tomato cubes. Put in a small bowl, stir in a small amount of the vinegar-soy sauce. Add okra to cucumber and tomato mixture.

Spoon out the dashi jelly over the mixed vegetables; stir lightly. Scoop this mixture 8into serving glasses.

* Ginger has proteolytic enzymes that prevent gelatin from setting. Heating the ginger juice breaks down the enzymes to allow gelatin to harden. ** Some gelatin powder does not require this process, so follow package instructions for dissolving.

Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto 1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml 6 DAIZU CHA-MESHI HOJICHA SOYBEAN RICE

Rinse and drain soybeans. Roast the soybeans in a non-stick frying pan, stirring 1constantly over low-medium heat until outer skins turn light brown and blister. Place the roasted soybeans in a bowl. Add the hot water, cover and allow to sit for 2about half a day. Japanese kombu tea granules Drain the soybeans, saving the soaking water. Remove the thin soybean skins and set the soybeans aside. Serves 4 3 329 kcal Protein 9.1 g Fat 3.1 g (per serving) Pour the soybean soaking water into a pot and bring to a boil. Add the hojicha tea 4leaves and allow to steep over medium heat for 60-90 seconds. When the aroma of • 50 g / 1.7 oz. dry soybeans the tea becomes strong, strain the soybean-hojicha liquid and allow it to cool. Discard • 500 ml / 2 C hot water • 7 g / 0.2 oz. hojicha tea leaves* the infused tea leaves. • 360 ml / 1 ½ C japonica rice Wash rice, drain in colander and leave for about 15 minutes. Seasoning • 1 T sake 5 • 2 t Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 1 ½ t Japanese kombu tea granules** Place the rice in a rice cooker, together with 360 ml / 1 ½ C of the cooled • 1/3 t salt 6 soybean-hojicha liquid and the seasoning ingredients and top up to line 2 of the rice cooker for cooking white rice. Add more water if necessary and stir. Scatter the peeled soybeans atop rice and cook.

When the rice is cooked, gently fold in the soybeans with a rice paddle. Serve warm 7 in individual rice bowls.

* 1 hojicha may be substituted for loose-leaf tea. As an alternative to hojicha, sencha green tea leaves may be used in the liquid to cook the rice. Hojicha provides a rich roasted aroma; sencha lends a light, refreshing taste to the rice. ** In Japan, kombu (kelp) tea is made using powdered kelp mixed with hot water. It is completely different to fermented teas called “” in the West. If Japanese kombu tea granules or powder are unavailable, add 1/2 t salt to the rice and place a 10-cm piece of dashi kombu (dried kelp) over the rice when cooking in Step 6.

Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation

FOOD FORUM October 2019 7 2019 YFU Kikkoman Summer Activity Supporting international youth exchange for over four decades

From left: American students enjoy the hands-on experience of mixing processed soybeans, wheat, salt and water with koji mold for brewing soy sauce; Participants observe the brewing process at the Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum.

On July 1, 2019, the YFU Kikkoman soy sauce themselves, including wishes to contribute both to local Summer Activity was held at the making shoyu koji (the essential communities and to global society Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum in base for soy sauce) and mixing and by encouraging youths to proactively Noda, Chiba Prefecture. The event pressing moromi. Moromi is a kind seek out such opportunities, and has was attended by 23 US high school of mash made by mixing shoyu koji sponsored YFU student exchange students who participated in this and brine which is then fermented, programs since 1978. Every year year’s student exchange program aged and pressed to make soy sauce. through YFU, Kikkoman supports hosted by YFU JAPAN, Inc., a branch To wind up the day, participants four Japanese high school students of the international organization tasted soy sauce on rice crackers to study in the US for one year Youth for Understanding (YFU). to appreciate its roasted aroma and and 23 US high school students to In addition to the US students, fl avor. One student commented: visit Japan for one month. Among host family members of 21 of the “Through this one-day activity, all those participating, a certain students, as well as fi ve Japanese I enjoyed learning about soy sauce, number of students are selected high school students attended the the seasoning that represents Japan. from Chiba Prefecture and from the annual Kikkoman Summer Activity. I hope I will have more opportunities states of Wisconsin and California, During the morning, students to learn about Japanese culture where Kikkoman plants are located. watched a video about the soy sauce during my stay in Japan. I am Since Kikkoman started supporting brewing process and what makes thankful to Kikkoman for giving us these YFU exchanges, over 150 soy sauce unique, then toured the such a wonderful opportunity.” Japanese students and more than museum and Kikkoman’s Goyogura Kikkoman believes it is vital to 900 American students have brewery, where soy sauce for the cultivate human resources through participated. Kikkoman will continue Imperial household is still produced intercultural experiences, and to to promote and advance these youth to this day. In the afternoon, they enable mutual cooperation beyond programs for international and had a hands-on experience brewing cultural differences. Kikkoman cultural exchange.

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Joanna Ohmori / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Mitsuru Shirai / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: PIXTA (p. 1, p. 2 top photos, pp. 4-5) / Tea Museum, Shizuoka (p. 3) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 2 bottom photos, pp. 6-7) / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2019 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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