Cooking with

Feeling

...and other useful senses

by

Precisely: Documents by Design Deborah DeBord Second Edition (July 1998)

Precisely: Documents by Design 81 Cree Court Lyons, CO 80540 U.S.A.

Cover design by Jim Ramsay. Photograph on cover and division pages by Dan Fogelberg.

© Copyright Deborah DeBord 1997, 1998. All rights reserved.

iii

Dedication

For Jim

who tenderly listened to my dreams,

who tenaciously had faith in my quest,

who courageously fostered the marriage of our creative talents,

who generously shared his expertise, and

who cheerfully tried dish...

after dish...

after dish.

Acknowledgments

I offer my sincere, heartfelt gratitude to • all the authors and publishers who openly and unselfishly offered their works to be used in this collection; • Jim Ramsay of Precisely: Documents by Design, who tirelessly for­ matted recipes, offered constructive support, edited copy and proofread the many versions of this work; • Magalis Higgins, who bravely typed page after accurate page...in her second language; • Duncan Larson, who graciously made thoughtful, articulate sug­ gestions for techniques; • Dan, Beth, Barb and John of the LHS Art Department, who patiently described the impact of design and color to me in words; • my mother, Jewel, who taught me the true meaning of hearth and hospitality; • my father, Steve, who taught me that patience and persistence are the foundations of success; • my siblings, Kathy and Steven, who made mashed potato faces and giggled until milk escaped their noses; • K Cowboy Davis, who gave the gift of true understanding in the kitchen--follow the recipe unless you can’t, then don’t; • my amiguitas at the stove, Lizzie, Elaine, Jo and Doris Gray, who had all the ideas, all the answers and all the best gossip; • and all the rowdy, ragamuffin, lightly irreverent friends who have graced my table and my life for the last half century.

Table of Contents

Let's talk...... 7

Let's get down to business...... 10

About the Author ...... 12

Techniques ...... 1 Through the market ...... 9 Into the kitchen ...... 14 Off the linoleum! ...... 25 At the counter ...... 43 On the stove ...... 75 In the oven...... 88 To the table ...... 94 Out the door...... 96

Appetizers ...... 99 Bacon Nuts ...... 101 Cheese Niblets ...... 102 Cheesy Meatballs ...... 103 Cherry Tomatoes Stuffed With Tuna ...... 104 Chicago-style Shrimp ...... 105 Guacamole ...... 106 Marinated Broccoli and Curry Dip ...... 107 Nutsy Bobo ...... 108 Olives in Cheese Puff Paste ...... 109 Prairie Fire ...... 110 Quick Fixes for Drop-in Guests ...... 111 Smoked Ham With Walnut and Orange . . . . 112 Spinach Dip in Shepherd's Loaf ...... 113 Stuff ...... 114 Stuffed Mushroom Caps ...... 115

Soups ...... 117 All-day Beef Stew ...... 119

1 Black Bean Chili ...... 120 Chicken Stock ...... 122 Clam Chowder ...... 124 Cold Cucumber Soup with Garlic and Dill . . .125 Destarte Chili ...... 127 Gazpacho ...... 128 Grillades ...... 129 Mushroom, Leek and Potato Soup ...... 130 Nine-bean Soup ...... 131 Pozole Presidio Style ...... 132 Split Pea Soup ...... 133 Zucchini Soup ...... 134

Salads ...... 135 Belly Acres Potato Salad ...... 137 Ceviche ...... 138 Five-bean Salad ...... 139 Indonesian Rice Salad ...... 140 Marinated Chicken Salad with Pasta, Grapes and Cashews ...... 141 Pasta Verde Salad ...... 142 Sangre de Cristo Taco Salad ...... 143 Spinach Salad with Creamy Mustard Dressing . 144 Tomato Raita ...... 145 Warm Walnut Salad with Orange/Raspberry Dressing ...... 146 White Rabbit Salad ...... 147

Poultry ...... 149 Chicken Cacciatore ...... 151 Chicken Fajitas ...... 152 Chicken Polenta ...... 153 Five Spice Chicken ...... 154 Herbed Chicken in Wine ...... 155 Italian Marinated Chicken ...... 156 King Ranch Chicken ...... 157 Roasted Rock Cornish Game Hens ...... 158

2 Sesame Cashew Chicken ...... 159 The Turkey ...... 160 Tipsy Hens ...... 161

Seafood ...... 163 Fisherman’s Fantasy ...... 165 Great Catch! ...... 166 Huachinango a la Veracruzana ...... 167 Margarita Prawns ...... 168 Seafood and Pasta with Basil Dressing . . . . 169 Serpentine Swordfish Strips ...... 170 Shrimp Etouffée ...... 172 Steamed Orange Roughy ...... 173

Red Meats ...... 175 Beef Stroganoff ...... 177 Hearth-and-home Meatballs ...... 178 Inside-out Burgers ...... 179 Kebabs ...... 180 Knock 'em Dead Meatloaf ...... 182 Oceanside Grilled Pork ...... 183 Pepper Steak ...... 184 Picadillo ...... 185 Pitkin County Pork Chops ...... 186 Tivoli Veal Tarragon ...... 187 Vegetable and Beef Stir-Fry ...... 188

Vegetables ...... 191 Basmati Rice ...... 193 Black Bean Chilaquiles ...... 194 Broccoli Mushroom Noodle Casserole . . . . . 196 Broccoli Rice Strata with Cashews ...... 197 Eggplant Parmesan ...... 198 Fettuccine with Roasted Eggplant, Peppers, and Basil ...... 199 Lasagne Verdi e Bianco ...... 200 Marinated Carrot Coins ...... 201 Potato Mash ...... 202 Ratatouille ...... 203

3 Stuffed Chinese Cabbage ...... 204 Taste-of-the-trail Cowboy Beans ...... 206 Twice-baked Potatoes ...... 207 Yummy Yams ...... 208 Zucchini Foolishly Fried ...... 209

Condiments ...... 211 Adobe Butter ...... 213 Apricot Sweet and Sour Sauce ...... 214 Basic Tomato Sauce for Pizza ...... 215 Basil Dressing ...... 216 Basil Pesto ...... 217 Beer Marinade for Beef or Pork ...... 218 Caramel Sauce for Dipping Fruit ...... 219 Cranberry Chutney ...... 220 Creamy Mustard Dressing ...... 221 East Texas Barbecue Sauce ...... 222 Herbed Tomato Béchamel Sauce ...... 223 Italian Tomato Sauce ...... 224 Microwave White Sauce and Cheese Sauce 225 Stir-fry Sauce for Meats and Vegetables . . .226 Turkey Gravy ...... 227

Dairy Case ...... 229 Artichoke and Potato Frittata ...... 231 Casserole Eggs Sardou ...... 232 Creole Egg Salad Sandwich ...... 234 Garlic Cheese Grits ...... 235 Nutty Cheese Calzone ...... 236 Omelets Made Easy ...... 237 Pasta Sauce with Three Cheeses ...... 238 Quesadillas ...... 239 Quiche the Cook! ...... 240

Breads ...... 243 Angel Biscuits ...... 245 Banana French Toast ...... 246 Basic Pizza Dough ...... 247

4 Blackberry Jam Coffee Cake ...... 248 Boarding House Ice-box Muffins ...... 250 Cornmeal Griddle Cakes ...... 251 Creamy Banana Coffee Cake ...... 252 Iron Skillet Cornbread ...... 254 Mamaw's Perfect Turkey Dressing ...... 255 Nutty Zucchini Bread ...... 256 Parmesan Biscuit Bites ...... 257 Pumpkin Nut Muffins ...... 258 Round Loaves ...... 259

Desserts ...... 263 Best Ever Pastry Shell ...... 265 Chocolate Scotch Truffles ...... 266 Chocolate-dipped Strawberries ...... 267 Homemade Ice Cream...Overseas ...... 268 Lacy Oatmeal Cookies ...... 269 Melon and Berry Platter ...... 270 Peach Ice ...... 271 Pecan Praline Cheesecake ...... 272 Sour Cream Apple Pie ...... 274 Texas Ranger Cookies ...... 275

Beverages ...... 277 Café Ceballos ...... 279 Candy Bar Hot Chocolate ...... 280 Champagne Punch ...... 281 Fruit Smoothies ...... 282 Kahlúa Coffee, the Rowdy Girl Way ...... 283 Milk Punch ...... 284 Old Virginia Wassail ...... 285 Sangría ...... 286 Southern Iced Tea ...... 287

Entertaining ...... 289 Step 1: Menus with recipes gathered from this book...... 292 Step 2: Menu from Breakfast with Friends. . . 293 Step 3: Now it's your turn! ...... 293

5 Puerto Rican Connection ...... 294 Onion Soup With Vermicelli ...... 295 Yellow Rice With Orange Rind ...... 296 Puerto Rican Pork and Beans ...... 297 Guava Paste Toast With Mint ...... 298 Basque Festival Outdoor Dinner ...... 299 Roast Leg of Lamb ...... 300 Red Beans With Homemade Chorizos . . . . .301 Homemade Chorizos ...... 302 Chicory Salad ...... 304 Sourdough Sheepherder Bread ...... 305 Gateau Basque ...... 306

6 Let's talk... Let's talk...

See no weevil!

I was not the least bit nervous about serving my very first meal. It was a decent affair...a few friends dropping by on a chilly Sunday afternoon. A respectable, hearty soup of some kind, a cast iron skillet of corn bread and a home-baked fruit pie. I don't remember all the details since it was over 25 years ago. But this aging hippie chick can tell you one thing she remembers in detail.

It started with a comment from one of the guests. The friend remarked on the delicious corn bread and oh, how interesting that I should use rye flour. Later, I thought about this one. Wanting to be as much a hit the next time around, I asked the last friend to leave what his opinion might be. After a minute of thoughtful consideration, he replied, "It was really good. I'm not sure. I mean, I think there were insects in your corn meal."

That's what they thought was rye! See no weevil!

Cooking in the dark has been an interesting experience. As I lose more sight each year, I continue to rediscover new ways to do the same old things. A dedicated cook, I refuse to give myself over to the micro­ waved dinner in the box. I think it is too easy to be seduced by these lit­ tle jewels of technology and convenience. It is just as easy to create lively, interesting, healthy dishes with a little practice and thought.

Even though I speak from the point of view of the visually impaired, I encourage everyone to get in the kitchen and mess around. Often, a minimum of adaptation can make a world of difference. If you are com­ fortable and capable in the kitchen, you are much more likely to spend a little time there. Our society seems to have lost the grace of breaking bread together at home. In general, people seem intimidated by the thought of entertaining. It does not have to be the crystal and china affair to please and amaze your guests. A simple soup and bread will

7 Let's talk...

delight. It's the community of others, after all, that is the point. The food is just the excuse.

The suggestions in this book should be helpful in getting you into or back into the kitchen. You may have met your disability recently. You may have a degenerating situation. Whatever your story, I encourage you not to avoid the kitchen. It is the heart of the home.

When it comes to adapting sound techniques, my grandmother was the best. One of my favorite recipes comes from my Mamaw who used phrases like 'take 49 cents worth of almonds,' 'beat it till it looks right,' 'add just enough milk,' and 'bake it hot enough till it's done'. This was her way of telling me to use my good sense and to get a lot of practice.

Necessity may be the mother of invention, but imagination is her sister. I always think about a task and break it down into smaller components. Then I find alternate ways to accomplish the visual components...both in the kitchen and elsewhere. I would say don't be afraid to get right in there with the food. Don't use a spoon if your hands will do. In this way, you will get to know the ingredients, your equipment and how they act and react to each other.

Once you know your equipment, your ingredients and how to use them safely, you will be willing to step out and take a risk. Your friends and family are more interested in spending time with you than actually eat­ ing. But food seems to bring people together, and they flock around. You might be surprised at how nonjudgemental people are. The rewards are great for such a little effort.

Even the most prepared, experienced cook and entertainer can't meet all the challenges. Consider a recent attempt at rounding up the usual suspects for a more formal occasion. Thinking that I had solved all the problems and anticipated the disasters, I put the pizza coupons on the table by the door...just in case we might need them later. My next-door neighbor had graciously offered extra chairs for the occasion. When she brought them over, I asked her to check the place out for me.

8 Let's talk...

She cruised on party patrol. Candles ready to light, flowers looking happy and straight, table set attractively. She giggled, "It's all very beautiful. You must have been folding laundry in here, though. You might want to take the underwear off the floor from under the table."

See no weevil! Deborah DeBord-Schulze (DDS) Lyons, Colorado Spring, 1997

9 Let's get down to business... Let's get down to business...

Who might benefit from this book?

Cooks of any level of expertise with visual challenges who want to feel more comfortable in the kitchen. They might include: • inexperienced cooks with slowly degenerating vision who need a boost in confidence provided by a step-by-step guide to food prepa­ ration

• accomplished cooks with catastrophic vision loss who want to con­ tinue using the techniques to which they are accustomed and who want to learn adaptive techniques for the visual components of food preparation

• blind cooks with tight schedules and busy lives who want to learn easy, healthy preparations

• teachers of the visually impaired and blind. This book is quite use­ ful as a working curriculum guide for life skills classes

• friends and family of individuals with visual difficulties. The tech­ niques offered here are sound practices for everyone. They will help the general public to understand the special needs of the visu­ ally impaired.

What is the purpose and philosophy of this book?

Basic culinary principles serve both the sighted and the blind or visually impaired public. Special equipment and wildly different techniques are not necessarily an integral part of a blind cook's entry or re-entry into the kitchen. Good technique and safety is more a function of compe­ tence and care, rather than of sight.

10 Let's get down to business...

At the very heart of this work is the notion that a cook with visual chal­ lenges can do just about anything in the kitchen. To develop this con­ cept, I sat with my own collection of cookbooks and chose authors with varying areas of expertise and interests. They graciously allowed me to borrow their recipes to show that one can take almost any food prep­ aration technique and transfer it, often without adaptation, to a variety of particular personal situations. Once the techniques have been mas­ tered, a cook will have the confidence and talent to continue experi­ menting.

How do I use the two different sections of this book?

This book is divided into two sections, Techniques and Recipes. The two sections can be used separately as independent references or in tandem with each other. Together they provide a comprehensive array of cooking techniques along with recipes that employ these techniques.

The first section, Techniques, is a compilation of sound strategies for meeting the challenges of food preparation in the kitchen. It is divided into segments that reflect the different stages of cooking -- from shop­ ping at the market to serving at the table. Each technique is explained with precise language intended to help the visually impaired or the blind cook meet the challenges in a safe, efficient way.

The second section, Recipes, contains a carefully built set of recipes which employ the techniques in the previous section. They range from easy recipes for beginning cooks to more gourmet preparations for cooks ready for an adventure. Each recipe is accompanied by a com­ plete listing of all the techniques necessary to prepare that dish. The page numbers of these techniques are provided for easy reference. The cook should refer to those preparation descriptions in the tech­ nique section for a complete description. Once one is familiar with a particular technique, there is no reason to refer to it again. In this way, cooks are able to proceed to more difficult preparations.

11 About the Author

Deborah DeBord won first prize in a Girl Scout cookbook contest in the third grade. Her mother helped with the recipes and her father helped wood-burn the cover. The prize was the same wire whisk she pulls out today from the crock of wooden spoons on her baker’s rack whenever a recipe calls for whisking. That early recognition inspired her to a lifetime of culinary and literary pursuits.

A freelance writer of articles on therapeutic recreation, career choices, adaptive techniques and travel, Deborah received her Ph. D. from the University of Texas and has taught at universities and high schools in the United States, Mexico, Guatemala, Bulgaria, China and Yugoslavia. Her wanderlust and love of international cuisine have led her to Portu­ gal, Costa Rica, Spain, Great Britain, Ireland, Holland, France and Ger­ many. When she is not pursuing new recipes, she enjoys snow shoeing, camping, needlework, old movies and putting her feet up in front of the fire high in the Rocky Mountains.

12 Techniques

Contents Through the market ...... 9 Into the kitchen ...... 14 Off the linoleum! ...... 25 At the counter ...... 43 On the stove ...... 75 In the oven ...... 88 To the table ...... 94 Out the door ...... 96

1 Techniques

2 Techniques

Contents

Through the market ...... 9 Arming yourself with a well-prepared list ...... 9 Cruising the aisles ...... 10 Selecting fish ...... 11 Selecting meats ...... 11 Selecting turkeys ...... 12 Selecting produce ...... 12 Shopping services ...... 12 Using coupons ...... 13

Into the kitchen ...... 14 Center of the home ...... 14 Maps in your mind ...... 14 Organizing the pantry ...... 15 Organizing the refrigerator ...... 15 Rounding it all up in advance ...... 16 Safety first ...... 16 Tools of the trade ...... 17

Off the linoleum! ...... 25 Aprons, cup towels, pads and mitts ...... 25 Chilling salad plates ...... 25 Coring and seeding peppers ...... 25 Cubing meat ...... 26 Cutting up a whole chicken ...... 26 Discarding vegetable waste ...... 27 Draining frozen spinach ...... 27 Estimating measurements ...... 27 Making ice ...... 27 Marinating meats ...... 28 Measuring butter/margarine ...... 28 Measuring dry ingredients ...... 28 Measuring ingredients in dashes and pinches ..... 29 Measuring liquid ingredients ...... 29 Peeling a green onion ...... 30 Peeling and coring an apple ...... 30

3 Techniques

Peeling and deveining shrimp ...... 30 Peeling an onion ...... 31 Peeling carrots and potatoes ...... 31 Peeling celery ...... 31 Peeling garlic ...... 32 Peeling ginger ...... 32 Peeling tomatoes ...... 33 Pitting cherries ...... 33 Pitting olives ...... 33 Preparing avocados ...... 33 Preparing broccoli and cauliflower ...... 34 Preparing cucumbers ...... 34 Preparing fresh berries ...... 35 Preparing fresh pineapples ...... 35 Preparing fresh spinach ...... 35 Preparing green beans ...... 36 Preparing leeks ...... 36 Preparing lettuce ...... 36 Preparing mushrooms ...... 37 Preparing pumpkin ...... 37 Scaling and filleting fish ...... 37 Scrubbing shellfish ...... 38 Seeding and peeling melons ...... 38 Sharpening knives ...... 39 Shucking corn ...... 39 Sorting and soaking beans ...... 40 Stuffing and trussing fowl ...... 40 Thawing frozen foods ...... 40 Trimming meat ...... 41 Washing produce ...... 41 Washing whole chickens ...... 42

At the counter ...... 43 Assembling a sandwich ...... 43 Beating ingredients ...... 43 Blending pastry ...... 44 Bundling asparagus ...... 44 Carving fowl ...... 44

4 Techniques

Chopping nuts ...... 45 Chopping vegetables ...... 45 Clarifying butter ...... 46 Combining ingredients ...... 46 Composing salads ...... 47 Covering casseroles ...... 47 Cracking eggs ...... 48 Cracking nuts ...... 48 Creaming butter and sugar ...... 48 Defatting stock ...... 49 Dicing vegetables ...... 49 Draining ingredients ...... 50 Dressing salads ...... 50 Drizzling ingredients ...... 50 Dropping cookie dough on the sheet ...... 50 Dusting meat ...... 51 Flouring a surface ...... 51 Fluting pastry ...... 51 Folding ingredients ...... 52 Frosting glasses ...... 52 Grating cheese ...... 52 Grating nutmeg ...... 53 Greasing and flouring pans ...... 53 Grinding pepper ...... 54 Juicing citrus fruits ...... 54 Kneading dough ...... 54 Layering casseroles ...... 55 Letting dough rise ...... 56 Making bread crumbs ...... 56 Making coffee ...... 56 Making popcorn ...... 57 Mincing vegetables ...... 58 Mixing batter ...... 58 Opening cans ...... 59 Opening jars ...... 59 Opening wine and champagne bottles ...... 59 Packing brown sugar ...... 60 Proofing yeast ...... 60

5 Techniques

Pounding meat ...... 61 Pouring batter into pan ...... 61 Pouring liquid ingredients ...... 61 Preparing muffin tins ...... 61 Puréeing ingredients ...... 62 Quartering potatoes ...... 62 Rolling out pastry ...... 62 Salt and pepper to taste ...... 63 Separating eggs ...... 63 Shaving chocolate ...... 64 Shredding meat ...... 64 Shredding vegetables ...... 65 Sifting ingredients ...... 65 Slicing citrus for garnishing glasses ...... 65 Slicing meats ...... 65 Slicing vegetables ...... 66 Spooning batter into muffin tins ...... 66 Storing leftovers ...... 66 Straining ingredients ...... 67 Tossing ingredients ...... 67 Tying artichokes ...... 67 Using a blender ...... 68 Using a chafing dish ...... 68 Using a crock pot ...... 68 Using a food processor ...... 69 Using a hand mixer ...... 69 Using a juicer ...... 70 Using a mortar ...... 70 Using a toaster oven ...... 71 Using cooking spray ...... 71 Using parchment paper ...... 71 Using prepared mixes ...... 72 Using the microwave oven ...... 72 Warming plates ...... 73 Washing dishes ...... 73 Whipping cream ...... 73 Whisking ingredients ...... 74 Zesting citrus fruits ...... 74

6 Techniques

On the stove ...... 75 Adding water to soups ...... 75 Boiling and peeling eggs ...... 75 Boiling water ...... 76 Browning meat ...... 76 Choosing a cooking temperature on the stove .... 77 Cooking candy ...... 77 Cooking pasta ...... 78 Cooking rice ...... 79 Deglazing ingredients ...... 79 Draining fried foods ...... 79 Finding the spoon in the pot ...... 80 Flipping pancakes ...... 80 Frying bacon ...... 81 Frying ingredients ...... 81 Making a roux ...... 82 Making a soup stock ...... 82 Melting butter ...... 82 Preparing a griddle ...... 83 Pouring pancake batter ...... 83 Reducing ingredients ...... 83 Sautéing vegetables ...... 83 Simmering ingredients ...... 84 Skimming ingredients ...... 84 Softening tortillas ...... 84 Steaming vegetables ...... 85 Stir-fry ...... 85 Thickening sauces, gravies and soups ...... 86 Using a double boiler ...... 86 Using a spoon rest ...... 86

In the oven ...... 88 Basting meats ...... 88 Braising ingredients ...... 88 Broiling meats ...... 89 Calibrating the oven ...... 89 Covering fowl with a tent ...... 89 Positioning oven racks for baking ...... 90

7 Techniques

Preparing the oven for baking ...... 90 Removing baked goods from pan ...... 90 Roasting chiles ...... 91 Setting the timer ...... 91 Spatula off the cookie sheet ...... 92 Testing for doneness ...... 92 Testing fowl for doneness ...... 92 Toasting nuts ...... 93

To the table ...... 94 Estimating amounts for the table ...... 94 Setting the table to set the stage ...... 94 Touches of class ...... 95

Out the door ...... 96 Grilling ...... 96 Picnics, patio parties and barbecues ...... 96

8 Through the market

Through the market

Whether you come home every day with a handbasket of baguettes and fresh vegetables or you shop in bulk for a month, this step is a cru­ cial one. Our amazing journey into the kitchen begins with procuring the ingredients. Planning ahead and having everything you need is the prelude to success. This section will help you make choices in an effi­ cient way. Let's bring home the bacon! preparing lists

Arming yourself with a well-prepared list

Most of the techniques I suggest revolve around planning ahead. Since transportation is a consideration, I only go to the market twice a month. This means I really need to think about what I will be doing and what my needs are in advance. I sketch out menus mentally and think about what is coming up in general terms. I then prepare my list accordingly. I also consider things like which fresh produce items will not last as long as others. For example, I might plan a stir-fry that con­ tains snow peas and broccoli for earlier in the two week period. I would save a potato soup or bean dish for later. In this way, the produce is always used at its freshest. Keep dairy products such as cheese and milk in mind, too.

I think about the household and personal items separately in order not to confuse the two areas.

I then check my list to see if there is anything missing before I call it quits. I sometimes mentally travel the aisles of the market to remind myself of items. If I neglect to get something at the market, I just live with it and go from there.

The form of the list is a personal choice. I happen to keep my lists on computer in my word processing files. I have a master list of all the things I might want to purchase. I cruise that list and delete the items I do not want or change the amounts. For example, I always buy 10 apples for my weekday lunches. But if I am making an apple pie that week, I will change that amount. Or if I do not need lettuce at all that week, I will delete that item. If I have an unusual need one week, such

9 Through the market

as hoisin sauce, I add it to the master list. It becomes a part of my saved list.

Another possibility is to keep a list on note cards, in either Braille or large print. They can be bundled or catalogued by type, such as fresh produce and canned goods. Then as you make your choice at the mar­ ket, such as a can of chopped tomatoes, secure the card on the can with a rubber band. This makes you more independent of need for a reader later.

If this seems like a lot of work, be assured that it saves much time and many trips in the long run. Now that I use the shopping service pro­ vided by my supermarket, I just fax it to the market and pick up my gro­ ceries the next day. Many markets also offer delivery services for a nominal fee.

Cruising the aisles

I used to love to cruise the aisles. Trucking up and down...seeing what other people were buying...finding out what was new. As I lost vision, I started to leave my cart at the end of the aisle and pick up things to bring back to it. It saved the mayonnaise display from my bad aim. As my vision faded, I started not to enjoy it at all. I found that at certain hours of the day, the clientele used basic guerrilla tactics to get shop­ ping done. I decided that the market would be less of an event for me and more of a source of goods. I still occasionally cruise the aisles with one of the store's shoppers, but with a different experience in mind. I share this self-indulgent history in order to urge you to find your own level of comfort. It would be a shame to change your approach to the kitchen because you couldn't get through the market. We are so lucky to have other choices these days.

Recently, supermarkets have added an extremely valuable customer service intended for any citizen with difficulty in shopping. Professional shoppers will walk the aisles with a customer and help negotiate pyra­ mids of canned goods, determine prices and make selections. It is useful to have them pull the cart from the front and you can use the bar handle at the back for guidance. If you travel with a cane, pull the cart

10 Through the market

from the forward end and use a wider arc on the turns to cover both yourself and your cart. The end-of-aisle displays are a little tricky. And don't forget the middle-of-aisle displays of rods with hanging bubble wrap packets that beg "Buy me, buy me."

Almost all markets display their goods in a structured way: produce, meat, dairy and baked goods on the outer aisles with canned, bottled, cleaning and personal products on the inner aisles. Again, customer service personnel can orient you.

Selecting fish

Fresh, fresh, fresh. Find a fishmonger you trust. You are looking for plump meat, bright eyes and a healthy gill. Your nose is your absolute best guide. Ultimately, you should trust the relationship you have built with the seller.

selecting meats

Selecting meats

Getting the freshest meats can be a very visual experience since they are wrapped tightly away from other senses. Making friends with your butcher is the best bet. Your butcher can also give you great advice on how to prepare cheaper cuts of meat in such a way as to substitute it for higher priced cuts. My butcher is often willing to cut, slice or cube my meat for me at no extra charge. For example, if I am making a green chili, I can ask for my pork to be cubed a little larger than the cub­ ing they normally do for soups. Usually the cut meats in the case are more expensive and have been exposed to the air longer. I find the staff of supermarkets very cooperative and helpful. However, I occa­ sionally run into a person who really does not know what to do, such as a fellow who works in the meat department as a cutter, but does not know much about kitchen preparation. That is why I like to cultivate a relationship with a particular person. In these days of fast, faceless service, they enjoy this type or personal contact, too.

11 Through the market

selecting a turkey

Selecting turkeys

Most families serve turkey during holiday seasons and kind of neglect it the rest of the year. If you fit in that category, you might not remember from one time to the next how to select the bird. Hens and toms are about equal in tenderness. When possible, select fresh, not frozen birds. Look for plump white birds with well-rounded breastbones. For turkeys less than 12 pounds, allow 3/4 to 1 pound per serving. Allow 1/2 to 3/4 pound per serving for those weighing over 12 pounds. If you like leftovers, calculate as if there were more people involved. Most butchers are happy to reserve your bird in advance. Given your needs, they can select a good one for you.

selecting produce

Selecting produce

Tricks for selecting good produce are rarely visual. Thumping a water­ melon for hollow sound, smelling the end of a cantaloupe for ripeness, feeling the skin of limes for thinness, sneaking a grape to see if they are sweet...these are all tricks learned with experience. Making friends with the produce manager doesn't hurt either. I made an appointment with the produce manager early on in my kitchen experience. He was happy to show me lots of tricks and to give me great information on how produce is grown, shipped and stored. It only took a half hour of his time and saved a lot in the long run. I sometimes call in advance for information on what looks good this week. My busy schedule does not allow for that in a typical week, but it might help if I want to make gua­ camole and have no idea how the avocados look. I might opt for some­ thing else if I find they are not ripe and expensive.

shopping services

Shopping services

Many larger supermarket chains now have shopping services for their customers for a small fee. They will accept orders over the phone or by fax. I have my master grocery list on computer. I select what I want that week and fax it to my grocer. When I arrive at the store, the order is

12 Through the market

ready and waiting. They would deliver the order if did not live high in the mountains. They even find bargains for me that I might normally miss. Most errors are my own. (Like the time I accidentally typed 43 instead of 4. Believe me, it takes a long time to use 43 cans of toma­ toes!) I usually include a request to read my mind if they cannot find an item. For example, there were no dried peaches available one day. The shopper substituted dried apricots. It worked great in the recipe.

I have learned a few tricks from doing this for years. I ask that the onions, garlic and bananas not be stored in the refrigerator while they are waiting for me to pick up the order. If a particular brand of a product is important to me, I ask that there be no substitutions made if it is not available that day. If I preferred, I could also make an appointment and have assistance in shopping in the store. I do this occasionally to see what is new on the scene. It's a miracle, and it works.

Using coupons

Since I do not read the newspaper, I miss out on money-saving cou­ pons. I also know that I might miss temporary bargains at the store. So I solicit the help of friends. The shopper at the supermarket always lets me know when items she has seen me use before are going on sale. She also attaches coupons to my receipt that she thinks I might be interested in the next time I shop. One could spend a lot of time chasing these things down. I choose not to do that, but am always happy when one comes my way. There is also another trend appearing these days. It costs supermarket chains a lot of time and money to honor coupons that they initiate. Some chains are going to the idea of issuing cards that automatically provide a discount on items on sale. These "no-clip coupon" cards are very convenient and save you a lot.

13 Into the kitchen

Into the kitchen

As you cross the threshold of the kitchen, anticipation warms the heart with the promise of great things to come. Bringing the groceries home, putting them away, setting up the preparation...these are all important overtures to the main event. Organizing workspaces and planning in advance make your job a happy, delightful one. This section will help make some of those tasks pleasant ones.

center of the home

Center of the home

A comfortable, familiar workplace is the basis of a good experience in the kitchen. It truly is the heart of the home, and for that reason people will always gather there. I can have attractive snacks all over the house and there will still be 20 people crowded into my tiny kitchen. If you are actually going to be working in the kitchen with others around, provide a place for them to hang out and chat without being in your way. Peo- ple's good intentions can be disastrous. When they ask to help, have clearly in mind what you would like for them to do that will not hinder your efforts. Politely turn down other requests saying that it really is easier for you to do it on your own. If I am entertaining, I try to have a plan that allows me to do my part ahead of time. If I think someone might want to help, I put all the dishes, silver, and glassware in stacks on the table. I set one place setting and ask them to finish the table. That provides some help for you, a feeling of belonging for them and a clear work path.

maps in your mind

Maps in your mind

Jacques Pépin once told me that a blind chef he knew made the kitchen experience a choreographed ballet. Dancers know the stage, all the planned movements and where they will end up. Try to keep similar plans and maps in your head. Think in advance about all the steps. For example, are you cooking an hors d'oeuvre in the oven while at the same time trying to roast a turkey? Will everything fit? Try all these things out before ever turning on the oven to preheat. Will the

14 Into the kitchen

timer go off for a casserole while you are making the salad? Will there be a place to put the dish as you pull it from the oven? Always have a destination in mind before heading toward it. A pan full of hot pasta water, a pitcher full of milk or a 5 pound ham becomes an unwieldy object if there is no clear path in mind. Again, if I am entertaining, I assume that someone has put a glass in the sink or a plate on the counter to be helpful. I check those places that I know are normally clear before heading there. With the stage clearly in mind, let the ballet begin!

organizing the pantry

Organizing the pantry

Arrange bottles and jars of things that you open and reuse, such as Worcestershire sauce, in such a way that you will always remember where they are. I use round spinning "lazy Susan" bases to better use the small spaces that I have. On the shelves where you keep canned goods, stack them in such a way that you are not reaching over items to get to something in the back. I have short cans, such as small cans of olives, in front of taller cans, such as chicken broth. The key is accessi­ bility and organization: some system that you are comfortable with and can remember. One of my problems is remembering to rotate things like baking powder and soda. I know they are fresh for only 6 months or so...I just can't remember when I bought it. I try to buy things that stay fresh for only a year around my birthday so that I know just how old they are...like me!

organizing the refrigerator

Organizing the refrigerator

Use the heights of the various shelves to your advantage. For exam­ ple, the taller shelves should be used for bottles and beverages. The shorter shelves can be used for casseroles and other things that fit. If you keep your leftovers in the same place, you will be less likely to for­ get you have them. Refrigerators often have special places for things. I sometimes change them to suit my needs. My unremovable egg tray seems to be in a strange place or angle. Eggs fly out if I get in a hurry. So I put limes and lemons in it instead and leave my eggs elsewhere. Keep in mind that the refrigerator will start to freeze items if you cram

15 Into the kitchen

things too close to the rear of the unit. The freezer will work better, however, if it is full.

rounding it all up in advance

Rounding it all up in advance

I have a set of guarantees in life. For example, if you set your sun­ glasses on the bed, it is guaranteed that you will sit on them. If you lower yourself into a hot bubble bath, it is guaranteed that the phone will ring. One of the kitchen guarantees says if you do not get it all out in advance, something will go weird. You will have a pot of bubbling soup under your nose, a spoon in your hand, the salt goes in next and...dangit, the shaker's empty. Since you only refill it occasionally, the search for the salt box makes you a little nervous while the soup marches on. If you have a designated staging area where all the ingre­ dients and tools wait for you, it makes your job easier and a lot less stressful. Try to think of everything. For example, if I am making a dish with a lot of onion and garlic and another dish with a lot of fruit and honey, I keep two different towels handy. In this way, I do not confuse the flavors or taint my fruit salad with garlic. Even though hands are thoroughly washed between stages of preparation, there are always emergencies or tight squeezes.

safety first

Safety first

Safety should be your number one word. No sense in electrocuting yourself over a quiche. What would be the point? Experienced cooks have a mental checklist that becomes second nature. Some of these thoughts dove-tail with what is mentioned above, but bear repeating in a safety context to echo the pleasant environmental context previously mentioned. • Kitchen is orderly to start. All paths are clear, and things are where you expect them to be. Countertops and sinks are clear.

• All appliances are off to start. Small appliances should have all their parts in place so that you are not searching for a blender lid at a criti­ cal time.

16 Into the kitchen

• All knives are sharp. Medtechs say that many emergency cases are caused by dull knives. In fact, a recent news item ranked bagels as the most dangerous item in the kitchen. I think they were really refer­ ring to the knife cutting the bagel. A sharp knife is easier to handle and in the event of a cut, makes a cleaner wound more easily treated at home.

• Plenty of cup towels and sponges are ready. I keep a baker's towel tied on the apron string at my waist. I use it for quick handling of hot pots and lids. I keep another towel over my shoulder or at the counter and wipe my hands constantly. Wet hands and electricity are not good playmates. I also keep clean towels and wash thoroughly after han­ dling different kinds of foods. At the end of an elaborate preparation, I might have as many as 6-8 towels in the laundry.

My final word to myself is "patience". Nothing can go so wrong that you can't fix it, so calm down. Haste and panic really are counterproductive and unsafe. Even taking all these precautions is no guarantee. From time to time remind yourself of what you will do if there is a fire on the stove or if you should cut yourself. Being prepared is the best precau­ tion.

tools of the craft

Tools of the trade

You don't really need a lot of elaborate equipment or apparatus. I did fine for years with a couple of good, sharp knives. Understanding how food will react to your situation and equipment is a matter of experimen­ tation and experience. How quickly your stove heats up, simmers and boils will be quite different from mine. Everyone has moved into that new apartment and has had to try out the stove for the first time. We know what we pull out of the packing boxes second. (Not first; that's for first week survival.) These are more than likely the most basic things we need and use. Furthermore, experience with ingredients is just as important. Should you just cut the mold off the cheese and dance on? Would you use the cinnamon you bought last year? What if you don't have baking powder, should you substitute baking soda? Again, expe­ rience will help you find the way. When unsure, follow the recipe to the

17 Into the kitchen

letter. Once you become familiar with what can be substituted and how ingredients act, branch out and use the recipe as a springboard or as a basic idea.

I give you lists of equipment here, ranging from basic to professional. You don't really need everything on these lists. There are always ways to adapt your technique to fit the equipment you have. I cooked for 32 years before I got a food processor. I am really glad I have it, but I did fine without it.

These lists are also very useful as wish-lists for gift ideas. Put the bug in the ears of your friends and family.

Level one: the bare essentials for the first apartment • 1 good 3-quart saucepan • our favorite large skillet • a few good knives • 1 cutting board • 1 potato peeler • 1 heavy-duty can opener • 1 long-handled wooden spoon • lots of aprons, towels and mitts

Level two: the well-equipped basic kitchen all of the preceding items plus: • 1 1-quart saucepan, with tight-fitting lid • 1 5-quart ovenproof saucepot, with tight-fitting lid • and ovenproof handles • 1 8-quart stockpot, with tight-fitting lid • 1 10-inch frying pan, with non-stick surface • 1 microwave-safe glass casserole, with lid • 1 adjustable vegetable steamer • 1 set of 3 nesting stainless steel mixing bowls • 1 set of nesting stainless steel measuring spoons • 2 sets of nesting measuring cups • 1 3-cup glass measuring cup with spout • 1 meat thermometer

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• 1 mercury oven thermometer • 1 metal spatula • 1 hard rubber spatula for nonstick surfaces •1 soup ladle • 1 standing 4-sided grater • 1 long-handled fork • 1 stainless-steel wire whisk • 1 plastic baster, with removable bulb • 1 bottle opener • 1 corkscrew • 1 citrus zester • 1 long-handled stainless-steel slotted spoon • 2 larger long-handled wooden spoons • 1 flexible rubber spatula • 1 wire-mesh strainer • 1 stainless-steel colander • 1 rotary egg beater • 1 kitchen tongs • 1 funnel • 1 nutcracker • 1 kitchen timer • 1 pepper grinder • 1 garlic press • 1 salad spinner • 1 filter coffee pot • 1 teakettle • 1 dozen thin wooden skewers • 1 small paring knife • 1 chef’s knife • 1 carving knife • 1 serrated bread knife • 1 sharpening steel • 1 heavy-duty blender • 1 countertop toaster oven • 1 small kitchen scale • 1 electric hand mixer • 2 9-inch round cake pans • 1 9-inch springform pan

19 Into the kitchen

• 1 13x9-inch rectangular baking pan • 2 9-inch square baking pans •1 loaf pan • 2 baking sheets, with rims on 3 sides • 1 9-inch ovenproof glass pie plate • 1 muffin tin • 1 flour sifter • 1 heavy rolling pin •1 wire rack • 1 pastry brush • many air-tight plastic storage units

Level three: the completely equipped kitchen all of the preceding items plus: • 1 2-quart saucepan, with tight fitting lid •1 griddle • 1 glass double boiler with lid • 1 oval enamel roasting pan • 1 ceramic baking dish for casseroles and lasagne • 1 deep-fat fryer, with removable basket •1 wok • 1 omelet pan • 1 large spaghetti fork • 1 deep-fat thermometer • 4 cloth tea bags • 8 thin metal skewers for trussing poultry • 1 pair kitchen shears • 1 trussing needle • 1 pizza-cutting wheel • 1 extra pepper grinder • 1 ice cream scoop • 1 disposable fire-wand • 1 egg piercer • 1 mushroom brush • 1 boning knife, 5 inches • 1 food processor • 1 carousel microwave oven

20 Into the kitchen

• 1 electric coffee grinder • 1 waffle iron • 1 electric juicer • 1 electric popcorn popper • 1 ice cream maker • 1 pressure cooker • 1 chafing dish • 1 pastry blender • 1 bundt pan • 1 jelly-roll pan • 1 fluted tart pan with removable bottom • 1 2-quart soufflé dish • 8 ovenproof ramekins • 1 set cookie cutters • 1 pastry bag with decorating tips • 1 pastry scraper

Level four: the gourmet's dream all of the preceding items plus: • additional saucepans, stockpots, skillets, larger sizes • 1 fish poacher • 1 crêpe pan • 1 food mill •1 meat grinder • 1 mortar and pestle • 1 apple corer • 1 meat tenderizer • 1 egg slicer • 1 set ring molds • 1 clay pot cooker • 1 nutmeg grater • 1 candy thermometer • 1 extra-long spatula for fish • 1 double-mesh strainer or chinois • 1 ivory or mother-of-pearl caviar spoon • 1 pair poultry shears • 1 grapefruit knife •1 cleaver

21 Into the kitchen

• 1 oyster and clam knife • 1 electric meat slicer • 1 charlotte mold • 1 marble pastry slab • 1 ladyfinger pan • 1 madeleine pan • 1 coeur á la crème mold • 1 mandoline slicer • 1 crescent-shaped knife • 1 pasta maker • 1 double-handled cheese knife • 1 gas range (6 burners, double oven, griddle, salamander)

Adaptive tools to add to your kitchen

This is a very important list for you to develop for yourself. As with all the adaptive tools made available to the visually impaired, some will work for one person and not be very helpful to the next one.

Catalogues present a wide selection of adaptive tools for the blind and visually impaired. With a few exceptions, I find adaptive techniques a much better way to get to the core of it. A few labels and tactile mark­ ers for oven and stove might be all you need. However, selection of such tools is completely a matter of individual taste. One person might insist that a talking scale is essential for weighing out portions for a dia­ betic diet. Another might be perfectly happy with loose estimation. Many tools are fashioned from a necessity that arises that might be particular to an individual's situation. The point is to figure out what you need and come up with it yourself. Break the task down into a descrip­ tion of the exact parts. Then describe your difficulty. Identify the part that gives you trouble and find another way to accomplish it.

For example, if you are avoiding using the oven for large items because you are afraid of burning yourself, break down the task mentally. You could also break it down physically with the oven cold. Ask yourself exactly what one does to remove a hot casserole from the oven. One looks in the oven, locates the casserole, grabs it on either side with hot pads, pulls it out and sets it on the stove top or cooling rack without

22 Into the kitchen

spilling it. You might have to modify the technique to include using long elbow-length oven mitts to avoid burning your forearms. You might also have to use a larger casserole dish than called for so that you have room to spare. You open the oven door, locate the casserole with a long fork or long spatula, tap the edges to locate its exact position and pull the rack out slightly. After assuring yourself of the precise path you will take, you pull the casserole out straight and level, clear the oven completely and proceed to your destination. In this case, the only spe­ cial thing involved was a longer pair of mitts.

I like to try to think of clever ways to solve my challenges, but always leave the door open to a possible purchase. I will never forget the story of the woman who had a friend paint dots on the oven setting dial. They were heat resistant and would last a long time. She could feel where her common settings were. Her loving son thought they were bits of spaghetti sauce and scraped them all off for her.

With funny stories aside, we all want something that is inexpensive, convenient and ready for immediate use. Dymo tape applied to a com­ pletely clean surface will stick to your oven or stove dial for a very long time. Nail polish dots applied in layers or notches carved in the dials are both good alternatives. The point is that it must make sense to the cook.

Here is a list of some of the items available. • talking and tactile meat thermometer • talking and tactile candy thermometer • talking and tactile scale • talking and tactile timer • large measuring cup with raised lines for 1/2 cup, etc. • measuring spoons marked in Braille • oven and stove dials in Braille and large print • liquid level indicator • slicing knife with guide • slicing guide and roast holder • splatter screen •simmer ring • inner lip plate

23 Into the kitchen

• automatic serving fork • pie wedge starter • easy-pour lock-lid saucepan • long oven mitts • double spatula • toasting tongs and bacon turner • tilting spoon automatic measurer • trigger-action butane lighter • low-vision high contrast cutting board • Braille labeler • mini-memo recorder

24 Off the linoleum!

Off the linoleum!

My kitchen is small and has entrances on two sides. Those entrances lead to rooms with hardwood floors. When I am about to launch into food prep mode I announce that it is time to get off the linoleum. That's the signal for small children and dogs to run and hide under the bed because Deborah's getting the knives out. This section will help you get all the ingredients ready for their role in the symphony of prepara­ tion. Many of these techniques are for all cooks. If you are an experi­ enced cook, but newly blinded, your techniques will remain mostly the same with some adaptation.

Aprons, cup towels, pads and mitts

Keep lots and lots of them. Tie your apron strings in front and you can secure the corner of a cup towel under the belt with several twists. Let the towel hang there and it will always be ready for picking up hot pans in a hurry or for wiping damp hands.

chilling salad plates

Chilling salad plates

This is a delightful touch, not to mention a useful one. An hour before the meal, put your salad plates and forks in the freezer. They will chill beautifully. Bring them to the table as you are serving the salad. If you are serving a composed salad that you prepare in the kitchen, pull them out when you are ready to put the salad together. This keeps the salad nicely chilled at the table.

coring and seeding peppers

Coring and seeding peppers

Peel the pepper with a potato peeler. This will help you avoid digestive problems. Place the pepper on a cutting board with the stem side fac­ ing the ceiling. Wrap one hand around the bell of the pepper and hold the paring knife in the other hand. Pierce the top of the pepper about an inch from the stem toward the edge of the pepper. Make about an inch incision, letting half of the knife blade slip in. Cut a circle of the lid of the pepper, turning the pepper as you cut. When you have reached

25 Off the linoleum!

your starting point, pull the lid off. Rinse the pepper inside and out. Make sure there are no pesky stickers on it. If you need to leave it whole, reach inside and tear away the veins and seeds. If you will be slicing or dicing it, you can cut it in half to do this. Rinse again. Once you become confident with the knife, you will be able to hold the pepper while you cut. Remember that the hotter the variety of pepper, the smaller you want the pieces.

cubing meat

Cubing meat

A friendly butcher will do this for you. Select the cut of meat you want and ask the butcher to cube it for you. In some larger markets they sell the cubed meat at a higher price and do not offer this service. Unless you have a huge amount to cube and would just rather pay to have it done, take it home to do it yourself. Slice the meat across the grain, so that you have steak-like portions. Continue to slice it thinner and thin­ ner until you have a slice about one-half inch thick. Then take this slice and continue making cuts until you have little squares the size of sugar cubes. Don't get impatient. The cubes will start to get larger and will be different sizes. In this state, they will not cook evenly. You can feel marbling of fat as you go and remove it.

Cutting up a whole chicken

It's cheaper than buying the parts and oh so easy. Grab the bird by the ankle and lift it so that the weight of the bird is pulling it down. Cut the skin and oyster that connect the thigh to the body. The leg will then hang freely. Repeat on the other side. Use the same technique for the wings. Then split the breast on either side of the breast bone. You can then open it flat for grilling or continue cutting into smaller pieces.

Grab the leg at the thigh and twist to break the joint. Finish cutting it with a butcher knife. Repeat with the other leg and use the same tech­ nique with the wings.

26 Off the linoleum!

Discarding vegetable waste

Don't do it. Save all your clean peels, skins and other temporarily unwanted parts. Freeze them in milk cartons or plastic bags and pull them out for delicious stocks. Ultimately, they should be headed for the garden or yard as compost to continue the cycle of nature.

draining frozen spinach

Draining frozen spinach

Remove frozen spinach from its box and place in a colander or strainer. Place this in sink and leave for about an hour or so. Hold sections of leaves in your hands and squeeze the water out. Repeat several times until all water is gone. You do not want to add water to your recipe. Pat dry with paper towel to get those last drops out.

estimating measurements

Estimating measurements

Most recipes are quite forgiving when it comes to exact measurements, as long as you stick to general proportions. If there is a particular chemical reaction or physical process, such as rising yeast, try to adhere to the recipe. If you need to include 4 ounces of ground meat and do not have a scale, remember that a stick of butter weighs 4 ounces and estimate by holding the butter in one hand and the meat in the other. If one of the ingredients is salt to taste, shake the amount you would normally put in your own portion into your hand. Then repeat that as many times as there are servings in the dish. Stop a lit­ tle short...you can always add more. Try to anticipate difficulty with measuring and plan ahead. For example, too much Tabasco sauce can be disastrous. Transfer the liquid into an old medicine bottle with an eye dropper. In this way, you can easily control the amount.

making ice

Making ice

If spilling water from the ice cube trays is a problem, try placing the tray in the freezer where it will finally rest. Then pour the water into the tray from a small pitcher or measuring cup with a spout. If you are making

27 Off the linoleum!

ice for a picnic and do not particularly need small cubes for drinks, use plastic containers and make larger blocks. Run hot water over the inverted dish when the ice is firm. It will pop right out. Freeze fresh strawberries or raspberries. They make great ice for sangria or fruit drinks.

marinating meats

Marinating meats

Marinades work on meats to partially cook and tenderize them. It is important to follow the suggested times. Poultry marinates more slowly than red meats, while fish only needs a short time. Air-tight containers such as self-sealing plastic bags or plastic containers keep out the air that damages meat. Most meats marinate in the refrigerator, although sometimes fish will marinate on the countertop. If a recipe calls for basting with the marinade, only use it for the first half of the cooking time. That will give the meat juices a chance to cook. Using the mari­ nate as a basting liquid at the very end of the recipe is not safe.

measuring butter/margarine

Measuring butter/margarine

Buy butter and margarine for cooking in sticks. A stick weighs 4 ounces or one quarter pound, and is equal to one-half cup. Score the stick into eighths by dividing it in half and then dividing each of those halves by two and so on. Each of these scored lines represents a tablespoon. Each tablespoon can be further divided into thirds for tea­ spoons if you need that amount. Soft margarine in a tub is easier to spread, but sometimes does not behave the same way in a recipe.

measuring dry ingredients

Measuring dry ingredients

Nesting measuring cups ensure accurate measurement. Some cooks keep several sets handy. I find it more difficult to remember which ones are missing if I do that. Place the selected cup on a plate or in a bowl to catch spills. Spoon flour or other ingredient into the cup and level it off with a knife. Scrape the straight part of the blade of a knife across

28 Off the linoleum!

the top of the cup to make sure it is level. Never measure over a mixing bowl with other ingredients in it.

Keep all measuring spoons on a chain so that you can tell the size of each relative to the others. Dip the spoon into the container of the spice or other ingredient. Level off with your finger. Again, never measure over other ingredients. Wash and dry after each measure.

measuring ingredients in dashes and pinches

Measuring ingredients in dashes and pinches

A dash of this or a pinch of that is often requested in a recipe. Measure dashes and pinches away from the other ingredients. You can always add something to your bowl, but chasing a dash too much of cinnamon is impossible. To measure a pinch from a small spice container that has an opening too small to wiggle your fingers into, extract part of a spoonful. Pinch an amount between your thumb and forefinger and shake the excess off. Then return the remaining amount to the canister and add your pinch of ingredient.

A dash is about half a pinch. A condiment that you use often, such as salt, is easy to estimate, since you use the shaker often. It becomes a little trickier when you need a dash of nutmeg. You might not use the nutmeg shaker as often and would not know just how much is coming out. So extract a bit with your spoon as before. Pinch an amount between your thumb and forefinger. Rub them together, letting about half the amount fall back into the spoon. Put this amount into your rec­ ipe and return the remaining product to the canister.

measuring liquid ingredients

Measuring liquid ingredients

Nested measuring cups ensure accurate measurement. Place the cup in the sink. Lay your hand across the top of the cup. Pour the milk or other liquid slowly until you feel the liquid hit your hand. Alternatively, put the tip of your index finger just over the lip of the cup. When you feel the rising liquid, it is full. Transfer gently into the mixing bowl. Never measure ingredients over the mixing bowl or other ingredients. Wash and dry after each measure.

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Keep all measuring spoons on a chain so that you can tell the size rela­ tive to the others. Dip the spoon into the container of the oil or other ingredient. Touch lightly with your finger to ensure that the spoon is full. Again, never measure over other ingredients. Wash and dry after each measure.

peeling a green onion

Peeling a green onion

Before washing the onion, grasp the root end in one hand with the par­ ing knife in the other. Snip the end of the root off with the knife. With your thumbnail, peel back the very outermost skin of the onion meat. Snip off any ragged or wilted ends at the opposite end of the root. Wash thoroughly.

peeling and coring an apple

Peeling and coring an apple

Place the apple on a cutting board with the stem side pointing toward the ceiling. Slice the apple into halves and then fourths with a paring knife. That gives you smaller pieces to work with. Hold one piece of the apple in one hand and the paring knife in the other. In order to get the maximum amount of fruit, estimate how little core and how little peel you can cut off. Peel first; then turn over to core. Further slicing may be required at this point. If you wish, you can peel the apple whole. Let it rest in one hand and use the potato peeler in a circular path around the apple, letting it all come off in one long strip.

peeling and deveining shrimp

Peeling and deveining shrimp

It's a messy job, but the only way to be able to enjoy fresh shrimp. Slip your thumbnail in the curve of the body where the legs are and peel back the shell. Slip the shrimp body out. The veins run down the back of the shrimp and radiate out the sides of the body. Slip these away from the body. It is difficult to get every last little vein, but a few left behind will not hurt you or ruin the dish. After all, it is only digested pro­ tein. You can do this the day before and avoid the mess the day the

30 Off the linoleum!

dish is needed. Rubbing a lime half on your hands helps to get rid of the fishy odor.

peeling an onion

Peeling an onion

Cut both ends from the onion. Try not to waste too much onion. Grasp the onion in one hand and feel where the peel starts at the top. Peel the onion with a paring knife by making a tiny cut just big enough to grasp the peel with the thumb of the knife hand. With the peel between the knife and the thumb, pull the peel, being careful not to cut any fur­ ther. Continue around the onion until all the outer skin has been removed. You might have to remove more than a single layer to get to the tender, non-fibrous meat. If you are going to use the onion raw, rinse it under cold water before going any further.

peeling carrots and potatoes

Peeling carrots and potatoes

After scrubbing the vegetable with a brush, feel the peeling all over to have a point of reference. Grasp the upper half of the vegetable in one hand and the potato peeler in the other. Peel away from you, starting at the lower half of the vegetable. Rotate the vegetable as you go until you have finished completely around. Turn the vegetable around and repeat the process on the other half. Remember that the vegetable will be slicker and a little more difficult to hold for this half. Wash the peeled vegetable and feel for missed spots.

peeling celery

Peeling celery

Wash the celery thoroughly. Find the end of the stalk with the bushy part. Cut this off at the narrowest part before the stalk starts to flare out. Also cut about an inch or so from the broad end. This removes the bitter white part. Grab the broad end with one hand and the paring knife in the other. With the knife braced against the thumb, snitch a few of the ribs from the end and pull on them. This should allow you to strip them all the way to the other end. Repeat this until you calculate you have removed the outer thin layer of ribs.

31 Off the linoleum!

peeling garlic

Peeling garlic

To separate the cloves of garlic from the pod, lay it a little on its side on the non-absorbent cutting board. Strike it gently with the butt of the palm of your hand. The pod will loosen. If the pod is dry, it will fall apart completely. This is not a bad thing; it just means your garlic is a little dry.

There are two very easy ways to coax the meat of the garlic out without releasing the oils. You can use a finger from an old rubber utility glove. Cut off the very ends of the cloves. Then place the clove of garlic in the finger and roll it around between the palm of your hand and the cutting board. The skin rolls right off. Another way is a little faster, especially if you have a lot of cloves to peel. Place the clove with ends cut off on the cutting board at its level best. Place the sharp edge of the chef's knife solidly on the cutting board to the side of the clove. Use the edge of the knife as a fulcrum and mash the clove to the cutting board. It will pop right out. The trick is overcoming your fear that the knife will slip. Once you feel it pop out once, it will be another easy technique in your reper­ toire.

The next step with your garlic will depend on your purpose. If you are looking for that pungent, robust flavor, you will need to crush the meat so that the 2 essential oils can mesh. If you are looking for the gentle flavor and aroma, you will leave the cloves whole.

peeling ginger

Peeling ginger

Ginger root is very irregular in shape, and it is always hard to predict where its little knobby knees will stick out. Start by cutting off the amount you need and then slice off any rough ends. Then use a potato peeler and work towards you instead of away from you. If you trust your expertise with a knife, use it. But the skin is rather thick and some­ times tough. The root is a little stringy and irregular, so work with con­ trol.

32 Off the linoleum!

peeling tomatoes

Peeling tomatoes

Boil a small pot of water. Spear the tomato at its stem with a fork. Hold the fork so that the tomato is submerged in the boiling water for 30 sec­ onds. Still using the fork, hold the tomato under cold running water for 10 seconds. The skin will slip off easily. If you like the smoky flavor in a tomato, roast the skins off over an open flame.

To remove the seeds, cut the tomato in half through the stem ends and squeeze gently by hand.

pitting cherries

Pitting cherries

If you will be making lots of cherry pies or conserves, a cherry pitter is a nifty and not-too-expensive investment. Otherwise, the technique is quite simple. If the cherry is very ripe, you can pit it as you would an olive. If, however, the meat is firm and attached to its pit, you will have to cut it off. Hold the cherry on the cutting board with one hand. Grasp the knife in the other and cut as closely to the pit as you can. Turn the cherry one-quarter turn and repeat. Continue until you have sliced off all the meat.

pitting olives

Pitting olives

Lay the olive on a cutting board and let it find its resting place. With the handle of a table knife, press gently on the side of the olive facing up, keeping the knife as level as possible parallel to the cutting board. When it starts to give a little, angle the knife slightly so that the pit pops out the end.

preparing avocados

Preparing avocados

Choose only the ripest fruits (ripe, not rotten). If you need avocado halves such as for stuffed starters, simply score the thick skin from top to bottom. Continue around the fruit to the same point at the top, mak­

33 Off the linoleum!

ing two equal halves. Then follow that scored mark and cut into the flesh, trying to stop just as you hit the large seed in the center. You can then pull the two parts away from each other, exposing the seed. Use your fingers to pry the seed out. Sprinkle with lime juice to slow dark­ ening of the flesh.

If you just need the flesh of the avocado and not the intact halves, it is even simpler. You can peel the fruit with your hands. The riper the fruit, the easier the skin will slip off the seed. If really ripe avocados are not available, I tend to choose another dish to prepare, or let them ripen on my summer window sill.

preparing broccoli and cauliflower

Preparing broccoli and cauliflower

Thoroughly wash the vegetable. Peel away leaves from the outside of the bunch or head. Break away stalks by hand. Decide how much stalk you need to remove according to the recipe or personal taste. Place the stalk on a cutting board. Hold the stalk in one hand and the paring knife in the other. Cut the stalk at the desired place using a downward motion toward the cutting board. Repeat this with each stalk. Cut stalks into smaller pieces if required by the recipe. Rinse again. I think most people discard too much of the stalk. If you peel a little of the tougher exterior skin off, there is a delectable, tender sur­ prise with the added benefit of additional antioxidants.

preparing cucumbers

Preparing cucumbers

Wash the cucumber well and scrub with a vegetable brush. Make sure that any wax the grower might have added is removed. If you are using it in a salad and would like festive slices, try this. Hold the cucumber in one hand and the potato peeler in the other. Strip a peeling off length­ wise from one end of the vegetable to the other. Rotate an inch and leave a bit of peel before stripping another section. This should leave a striped effect. Then slice it into coins. The result is a thin slice of cucumber with touches of peel for color. If you need the whole thing peeled for a recipe such as gazpacho, then continue peeling all around.

34 Off the linoleum!

If you need small pieces without seeds, slice lengthwise making spear- shaped pieces. Then flick the seeds out with a knife. If you are in a rush and do not mind wasting a little of the vegetable, then slice that whole edge of the spear off and discard.

preparing fresh berries

Preparing fresh berries

Soak berries in a sink of fresh water for 10 minutes. Then hold several berries at a time under running water to release sand from the nooks and crannies of the fruit. Lay on paper toweling to dry. Make sure they are absolutely dry and cool before using.

preparing fresh pineapples

Preparing fresh pineapples

If you are going to use the pineapple in a salad plate, cut about 2-3 inches under the green tree-top sprouts, wash and save for a center­ piece to the platter. Otherwise cut as closely as you can to the top of the fruit. Lay the pineapple on its side on a cutting board and let it find its natural resting place. Make slices starting at the top of the fruit. If you will be leaving the husk/shell on, then cut the slice in quarters as if it were a pie. Cut the tip of the pie wedge to remove the core. If you need crushed or otherwise prepared pineapple without the husk/shell, then cut the husk off while it is still in the sliced stage. Do this by cut­ ting a thin slice of the husk off and rotating the fruit and continue all around. This is one case where I think it is better to waste a little of the fruit than it is to bite down on a small piece of that husk, so be liberal with your cut. Again, cut the tough core portion away.

preparing fresh spinach

Preparing fresh spinach

Spinach and lettuce grow close to the ground and will have lots of sand and dirt among the leaves. Wash spinach three times to be sure. Put the spinach in a colander and lower it into a sink of cold water. Move the leaves around to release the particles. Lift the colander straight up, leaving the dirty water behind. Change the water and repeat the pro­ cess. Spin excess water off.

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preparing green beans

Preparing green beans

Wash the beans and put in a colander to drain. One at a time, snap both ends of the bean off at the very tip. As you snap it off, follow the vein of the end down the side of the bean to remove the string.

preparing leeks

Preparing leeks

Unless otherwise stated, recipes usually want to use only the white part of the leek. Find the place on the leek where the green branches out. Then estimate the halfway point between there and the root end of the plant. This is about where the green starts. Cut the vegetable here. Slice off the hard root end. Peel one layer of the outer skin away. Slice halfway through the plant lengthwise. This will allow you to wash the inside thoroughly. Sand and dirt hides between the layers. Hold them under running water and riffle them as you would pages in a book. Wash very thoroughly.

preparing lettuce

Preparing lettuce

Lettuces always seem heavy for the bulk; they are mostly water. If you are using the whole head or bunch of lettuce, peel the leaves away from the core. Put the leaves in a colander and then in the sink full of cold water. Jostle them about and lift the colander from the sink of water. Rinse each leaf thoroughly once again and spin in a salad spin­ ner. If you do not have one, place the clean leaves in a colander in the sink. Shake the colander repeatedly, turning the leaves as you go. You want to get the leaves completely free of water. Remember that water will destroy a dressing with oil in it. If you are in a dead-heat hurry, pat the leaves dry with paper toweling. If you want to prepare the leaves in advance, lay them end to end on a clean kitchen towel and roll them up. Place the whole thing in the refrigerator. They will stay crisp overnight.

Remove the ribs from each leaf by cutting it out or tearing away the leaf from the rib.

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If you want to use only part of a head or bunch, remove the core and peel away what you want. Continue the mentioned process. Store the remainder loosely wrapped in the refrigerator.

preparing mushrooms

Preparing mushrooms

It is okay to wash a mushroom, but I find that it keeps its woodsy, earthy flavor if you brush them clean with a soft brush. The special brush has soft bristles and collects the dirt as you gently brush the cap of the veg­ etable. Keep a paper towel handy and brush the towel in reverse after each mushroom. This will release the dirt from the brush and leave it on the towel. If you are slicing the mushroom, do this lengthwise so that each slice has cap and stem. You might begin by slicing the tiniest piece from the bottom of the stem.

preparing pumpkin

Preparing pumpkin

Fresh pumpkin tastes fantastic. But it is a mess. Lay newspaper on the counter to work on. With a butcher knife in one hand and holding the top of the pumpkin in the other, slice evenly and firmly from top to bottom. Start by halving the pumpkin. Then slice it into quarters. Pull the strings and seeds away from the meat with your hands. If you slice them out, you will lose too much of the meat. Just be patient and work at it. Rinse the seeds off and save them for toasting. They make a great salted snack. You can then cover a baking sheet with foil and bake the quarters or proceed with the recipe if there are other instruc­ tions. When they are baked and cooled, you can easily scoop the meat away from the rinds with a spoon.

Scaling and filleting fish

Since each species is a little different, I will speak in generalities. Beginning with a fresh selection is essential. Place the fish in a plastic bag that is large enough that you can get your forearms inside. A trash bag is handy for this. Scrape your large knife back and forth at a 30-degree angle with brisk movement and without bending your wrist. The layer of plastic keeps the stuff from flying around.

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With the fish flat on a board, cut along each side of the backbone with the knife at a 45-degree angle. Flop the fish open and remove the rib bones with a pair of pliers. Remove the skin with the knife at a 45-degree angle. Cut into filets or steaks of desired size.

If you do this ahead of time do not squeeze your citrus juice on the fish until later. It will solidify the proteins and cook it, as it would for ceviche.

scrubbing shellfish

Scrubbing shellfish

Clams, oysters and mussels live in the sand and so bring the sand with them to the market. Nothing worse than to have a delectable dish ruined by gritty texture. Scrub the exterior of the closed animal shells with a brush. Rinse them well. Run a cold water bath and let them sit in it for 10 minutes. Drain in a colander. Repeat this process 3 times. Use a bottle opener or screw driver to open oysters, clams and mus­ sels. Cut the connective muscle before proceeding.

seeding and peeling melons

Seeding and peeling melons

We will use a cantaloupe as an example. Place the melon on a cutting board and let it find its natural resting place. Find the stem ends of the melon. You will be cutting it so that when the halves fall apart like two bowls, the stem ends will be on the bottom of the bowl. Grasp the melon in one hand on the top and the knife in the other. Slipping the knife beneath the melon hand with the blade perpendicular to the sur­ face, firmly cut the melon with a downward sawing motion. Cut straight toward the center of the earth for a direct halving of the melon. Let the two halves fall apart. Working over a trash can or garbage disposal, scoop out the seeds with your hand. Pull out all the stringy parts, as well. You can also save the seeds for drying and toasting. Continue cutting the pieces into halves until they are narrow enough to peel.

Don't be afraid to waste a little fruit when you are learning to peel a melon. Getting too close to the thick skin will add an unripe flavor to an otherwise beautifully ripe melon.

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sharpening knives

Sharpening knives

There is a general misconception about sharpening knives, so listen up. A knife will not stay sharp forever. Nor will using a knife steel return it to its sharp edge indefinitely. A sharpener has at least two, usually three and sometimes four stones on it. They range from gross to fine and are used in that order. Once you have a nice edge, you continue to refine the sharpness by moving to the finer stone edge. The honing edge is the final touch. Once your knife is sharp, you want to hone it from time to time to realign that edge. You will sharpen again twice a year or so depending on how much you use them.

Now for the technique. Wet the roughest edge of the stone with min­ eral oil or water. Use only a mineral oil, as cooking oils will destroy the stone. Once you have used oil, you can never return to using water. Hold the edge of the blade at a 30-degree angle and move it in one complete motion from top to bottom beginning at one end of the blade and continuing in a single motion to the other end of the blade. Apply even pressure and do not bend the wrist, all the while reaching the whole blade. Continue this for 5 minutes on each stone from rough to fine.

shucking corn

Shucking corn

Peel back the green layers of the shuck. Discard the dryer outer layer. Save the moister inner layers if you will be steaming the corn. Other­ wise, discard them. Peel the silk away and rinse the cob thoroughly. Break or cut off the stem end of the cob. If you are grilling the corn or preparing it in some way that you might need the stem, leave it on. Some recipes for grills or steams call for peeling only half the shuck back to take away silk, brush with butter and replace shuck.

If you need to remove the kernels, hold the cob in one hand at a 45-degree angle with the larger end resting on the board. Use your sharp chef's knife to scrape the kernels away.

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sorting and soaking beans

Sorting and soaking beans

Sort through the beans and remove any small stones. They will gener­ ally be different in size and shape. Rinse them well, place in a large pot, cover them generously with water, and let them soak overnight. Next day, drain the beans in a colander, rinse them, cover them with fresh water by a couple of inches, and bring them to a boil with a bay leaf. Lower the heat and continue with the recipe.

stuffing and trussing fowl

Stuffing and trussing fowl

Contamination in poultry is not an old-wives' tale. It is truly a danger, so always follow suggestions when handling birds. Stuff the bird just before roasting, even if it is not completely convenient. One might think stuffing it and placing in the refrigerator is sufficient, but the cold does not always penetrate the stuffing. Since the dressing will expand, fill the bird loosely only three-fourths full. Stuff both the crop and the body cavity and close the openings with small spiral skewers. Some turkeys come with them. Fasten the legs close to the body by tying the ends of the drumsticks together.

Trussing was originally for keeping the juices in a less fat, dryer bird. Nowadays it is purely for aesthetics. Tie a piece of string around the skin of the neck. Leave two long ends. Turn the wings back and pass the string around them and secure it. Some turkeys come with an excellent string system for lifting the bird out of the roasting pan. This is not part of the trussing process.

thawing frozen foods

Thawing frozen foods

Always look a little ahead so that you don't have a panic about foods being in the freezer. If you are making a meatloaf on Wednesday, take out the meat on Monday afternoon and put it in the refrigerator. It will be ready for you by Wednesday. Fruits and vegetables will thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Put frozen foods on a plate or in a baking pan to

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avoid drips of juices or water in your refrigerator. Always follow thawing instructions on frozen poultry such as turkeys. I usually add an extra half-day. It just never seems to thaw as quickly as producers suggest.

Thawing meats outside the refrigerator is not safe. If you get caught short, just rustle up something else. It is not worth your health.

trimming meat

Trimming meat

Butchers are extremely willing to cut and trim meat to your specifica­ tions, usually at no extra charge per pound. If you should find yourself in the position of needing to do it yourself, however, it is quite simple. Handle the meat gently and get the idea of the grain and the design of the fat marbling inside the cut. If there are thick pieces of fat surround­ ing the meat, you can pull these away from the meat. The fat should feel different from the surrounding meat. Use the fascia as a guide. That is the thin layer between the fat and the meat that allows you to pull it away. You can use a very sharp knife to assist in the trimming, especially if it is particularly stubborn.

washing produce

Washing produce

With today's chemical pesticides and fertilizers, washing vegetables and fruits is very important. Putting them in a colander and running water over them is usually not enough. Foods that grow close to or in the ground are particularly in need of a good bath. Leafy vegetables such as spinach should be soaked and drained thrice before having cold water run over them. Potatoes and other produce with peels to be left on should be scrubbed with a brush. Bunches of grapes and cher­ ries should be turned over and over to get all the surfaces clean. Stalks such as broccoli should be rinsed whole and again after florets have been separated.

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washing whole chickens

Washing whole chickens

Sometimes there will be little packets of organ meats, necks, etc. in the neck or body cavity or both. Check them first and save for gravies or stuffings. Rinse out the cavities thoroughly and pat dry with a paper towel. Rinse outer surfaces and pat the whole chicken dry. Salt or stuff the cavities according to the recipe. A nifty freshener for chickens that have been frozen is to rub the skin inside and out with a lemon wedge after patting dry.

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At the counter

Most of your work is done at the counter. Most of your technique will be developed here. Plenty of space and a minimum of clutter will make you more successful. Get in there with your hands...up to your elbows when necessary. Messing around and messing up can be a lot of fun. This section will help you discover basic techniques of preparation as our symphony proceeds. Again, the experience you bring to the kitchen is valuable. If your situation is changing, your previous tech­ niques are still sound.

assembling a sandwich

Assembling a sandwich

Sounds simple, eh? McDonald's Hamburger University has test kitch­ ens and professional tasters that decide exactly what order and in what amount to assemble their ingredients. Benefit from their research. Typically, you will want something moist next to the bread. Meat or heavier ingredient on the bottom. Slippery or lighter ingredients on the top. Sandwich fanatics may also insist that their mustard go next to the meat and their mayo go next to the cheese and that their tomato not touch their bread. Whatever your preference, do it with panache. Style can make the difference. Add a few slices of black Greek olive to a ham and cheese on rye. Put a slice or two of pepper or green onion into your grilled cheese. Experiment!

beating ingredients

Beating ingredients

When beating ingredients, such as eggs, the idea is to mix the ingredi­ ents thoroughly while getting a little air into the mixture. If you add a few drops of water to eggs, it will break the tension of the egg white and they will mix better. Beating egg whites in a copper bowl helps them to stand up stiffer. Hold the bowl in one hand and the fork in the other. Tilt the bowl a little and provide a brisk circular motion with the wrist. Start fast and end with a slow finish, trying not to touch the bowl with the whisk. When you think you have mixed it well, test it with your thumb and index finger in several places to see if the ingredients are indeed well beaten.

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blending pastry

Blending pastry

Generally, the less you handle pastry dough, the better. Measure the dry ingredients and place in a medium mixing bowl. I try to use one with high sides. Measure the butter, margarine, or shortening and put it into the bowl in smallish pieces. Using a pastry blender, cut the pieces of butter by mashing against the bottom and sides of the bowl. Be as efficient as possible so that you are touching the dough as few times as possible. Some cooks use their fingers to gently blend the ingredients. The touch you use must be extremely light, though. The recipe will tell you the desired consistency, such as cornmeal size or pea size. You can tell this by feel. A recipe often asks you to make a well in the center to add a liquid. Use your hands to gently make a hole in the center of the bowl to pour the puddle of milk or other liquid.

Bundling asparagus

Choose asparagus with tight flowers for freshness. Peel the tough stems with a potato peeler. Don't cut them off; they are quite tasty. Bundle them with cotton kitchen twine by frapping several rounds, then moving down and frapping several more rounds. They are now ready to spend the hour required for steaming.

carving fowl

Carving fowl

Let the fowl rest 10 to 20 minutes after removing from the oven to allow juices to settle. If you are carving at the table, remove the bird breast- side-up to a heated platter and garnish with parsley. We often "present" the bird and then retreat to the safety and privacy of the kitchen to carve. Using a very sharp carving knife and two-tined fork, insert the fork into the knee joint and slice the meat of the thigh away from the hip socket. Hold the drumstick with a towel and twist it a bit at the very end of the cutting process. Remove the wings in a similar manner. To slice the breast, begin at the area nearest the neck and slice thinly across the grain, the entire length of the breast. We like to put dark meat on one warm platter and white meat on another. The

44 At the counter

more difficult to reach pieces under the bird can be left for later. Left­ overs are just the best!

chopping nuts

Chopping nuts

This process is much like chopping vegetables, but the product is smaller and oily. That makes it a little tricky. Pay a little closer attention to knife control. Cup the hand you use to pivot the knife over the nuts a bit as they will pop away when cut. Follow the same technique as chopping vegetables. If your knife is dull, you will wind up mashing the nuts and not chopping them. This releases too much of the oil. If you are using chopped nuts in a muffin or loaf quick-bread, dust them a very tiny bit with flour, and they will not sink to the bottom of the batter.

chopping vegetables

Chopping vegetables

Whenever chopping, dicing or mincing, you want the product to end up the same size so that the pieces will cook evenly and in the same amount of time as the other pieces. Chopping vegetables results in pieces about the size of your smallest fingernail. I will use onions as an example since they can be particularly tricky. Burning a candle nearby helps keep the tears to a minimum. If the fumes get to be too much, stoop down below the level of the counter for a few seconds. Since the fumes are rising, they can't reach you. In the end, a sharp knife should help you avoid all this. It will cut, not crush the vegetable.

Place the peeled onion on the cutting board. Roll it a bit so that it finds its natural resting place. Hold the onion with one hand and leave a two-inch arc between the top of the onion and the bottom of the hand. Slide your chef's knife between your hand and the onion. The cutting motion is firm and forward. Repeat quartering process until the onion is in 8-10 pieces. Chop each piece by placing it on the cutting board with the flattest side down. Rest the non-knife hand on the cutting board with fingers curled under and thumbs out of the way. You will guide the vegetable toward the knife with this hand. With the knife hand, grip the handle and let the blade touch the board. The knife hand should come down with the blade in such a way that it hangs over

45 At the counter

the board, letting the full length of the blade make contact with the board. Cut the onion pieces. The blade will be perpendicular to the board with the back of the blade resting against the curled fingers of the other hand. The trick is cutting down and forward or down and back­ ward. The resulting pieces are about the size of a sugar cube.

clarifying butter

Clarifying butter

There really is no mystery to this technique. The concept is to separate the liquid butter from its solid sediments. Unfortunately, it is a very visual process. As with some such vision-dependent activities, I adopt the philosophy of "better to waste a bit of food than to risk fouling the process". Melt the butter slowly and thoroughly on the stove or in microwave. Set aside to cool in a coffee cup or other cup with fairly straight sides for the top 3/4 portion and sides slanted inward for the bottom portion. When it is cooled just enough to touch, slip an index finger 1/2 inch above where the cup starts to slant inward. Place the tip of a plastic bulb-ended baster at that point and begin to suction out all liquid above that point. Place in another cup or bowl. Strain that liquid through cheesecloth into its final serving container. As much as I hate to be the one to use the phrase, "get a sighted friend," this is one of the few times it might be useful to use this friend. Grilling and the racking stage of home-made wine are two other times I shout for help. Once you know just how far down you need to go to get a majority of the good liquid and avoid the bad solids, you will have a formula to follow. When you have a formula to follow, you will no longer need to seek visual information. As with any other visual technique, there is always such a formula. Establishing it might take a little help initially, but then it's part of your repertoire.

combining ingredients

Combining ingredients

If eggs are involved, crack and beat them lightly in a separate cup or small bowl first. Add the ingredients in the order they are mentioned in the recipe. If it just lists them all together, then order does not matter. Use your hands and scoop up from the bottom of the bowl. If flours are

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involved, use a light touch to avoid toughness. You can tell by feeling when the ingredients seem to be thoroughly combined. Use a rubber scraper to loosen ingredients from the side. Leave all ingredients behind in the bowl before washing your hands. Don't be reluctant to get in up to your elbows if necessary. You will learn to feel how ingredi­ ents act and react.

composing salads

Composing salads

Composing a salad is more organized than tossing. The arrangement is intended to be balanced in terms of presentation, color and texture. If the recipe does not describe the arrangement, then you are free to make any design you would like. Determine your design keeping in mind the size of each ingredient, the flavors and any other logical con­ siderations that might make it better. For example, do not put sesame seeds under the meat where they might get soggy. Also consider how the salad will be eaten. Ingredients should be a size that easily fits on a fork, as composed salads should not have to be cut.

covering casseroles

Covering casseroles

To cover or not to cover a casserole is an important issue and the rec­ ipe should be followed; if not mentioned, do not cover. If you are using a glass dish, use its cover. If you are using a baking dish or pie pan, cover with aluminum foil. All edges should be sealed well. Recipes often ask you to uncover the casserole the last 10 minutes or so. Be sure to set the timer accordingly. Remove the casserole completely from the oven to uncover it. Remember that steam will escape as you do this, so do not work with your forearms over the dish. Also be aware that cheese or other gooey ingredients might have stuck to the foil or lid. I sometimes make a double batch of a casserole and freeze half. In that case I would also cover it with foil and wrap the whole thing in a plastic grocery bag to avoid freezer burn.

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cracking eggs

Cracking eggs

If you have lost track of an egg and are not quite sure if it is boiled or not, spin it on the countertop. If it spins, it is boiled. If it rolls sluggishly, it is not. If you doubt its freshness, drop it into a bowl of water. A fresh egg will sink to the bottom. A rotten one will float.

Crack eggs into a coffee cup or mug. Whack it firmly on the countertop or other flat surface. Some cooks use the rim of the cup, but I find that fewer pieces of shell separate the other way. Holding each half of the egg with opposing hands, separate the shell and let the egg slide into the cup. Once you have cracked all the necessary eggs, run your fin­ gers through the cup to make sure you have not included any shell. Pour the eggs into the mixing bowl. If the recipe calls for adding the eggs one at a time, then do so using the cup and repeat the process.

cracking nuts

Cracking nuts

Nuts fresh from the shell are superb! You want to hold the nut as close to the meeting point of the two arms of the nutcracker as you can get it comfortably. The point is to crack it enough so that you peel it, but not to the point of crushing the nutmeat. Most nuts have a thin paper shell inside that you will also want to remove before going further. I usually put the whole nuts or nut halves into a bowl. I then search for nut shells and put them into a second bowl when I am sure there are none. This is an extra step, but saves the aggravation of biting down on a nut shell in the baked good or salad.

creaming butter and sugar

Creaming butter and sugar

Place the measured butter, margarine or shortening in the mixing bowl. Leave at room temperature to soften for an hour. Pour in the measured sugar. Mix with a hand beater on low speed until ingredients are well blended. Set beater aside and scrape the sides of the bowl with a rub­ ber scraper. Then blend at high speed until the mixture is creamy.

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Clean detached beaters with fingers to get all the creamed mixture into the bowl.

defatting stock

Defatting stock

If you are using a canned chicken broth and you don't want that little glob of fat they include, open the can with the triangular end of the bot­ tle opener. When you pour it out, the piece of fat stays in the can.

If you have made a stock or broth and want to relieve the fat, put it in the refrigerator for about 2 hours. As it chills, the fat rises to the top and solidifies. Break it in half when it is completely hard and scoop out one side then the other with fingers flat as if they were a spatula. I would mention that the fat can be easily felt. Discard the fat, and your soup is healthier and tastier.

dicing vegetables

Dicing vegetables

Use the same technique for chopping vegetables. Again, I will use an onion as an example.

Place the peeled onion on the cutting board. Roll it a bit so that it finds its natural resting place. Hold the onion with one hand and leave a two-inch arc between the top of the onion and the bottom of the hand. Slide your chef's knife between your hand and the onion. The cutting motion is firm and forward. Repeat quartering process until the onion is in 8-10 pieces. Chop each piece by placing it on the cutting board with the flattest side down. Rest the non-knife hand on the cutting board with fingers curled under and thumbs out of the way. You will guide the vegetable toward the knife with this hand. With the knife hand, grip the handle and let the blade touch the board. The knife hand should come down with the blade in such a way that it hangs over the board, letting the full length of the blade make contact with the board. Cut the onion pieces. The blade will be perpendicular to the board with the back of the blade resting against the curled fingers of the other hand. The trick is cutting down and forward or down and back­

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ward. The pieces will be half the size of sugar cubes. Before using the pieces, quickly feel them to make sure they are uniform in size.

draining ingredients

Draining ingredients

Using the pan lid to drain ingredients is dangerous. It might dirty one more dish, but use a colander. Put the colander flat on the bottom of an empty sink. Pour ingredients away from you. Shake the colander a little as ingredients settle to release the last bits of water or liquid. If you need to save the liquid, follow the same procedure, putting the col­ ander into a slightly larger bowl. Pour the ingredients into the colander and lift it out. Allow the draining liquid to fall back into the bowl and save it for its intended use.

dressing salads

Dressing salads

Most people prefer to dress their own salads at the table. You can offer more varieties of dressings that way, and they can use the preferred amount. However, some salads are dressed at the counter. I still only use half the amount and reserve the other half in a small pitcher for the table. Use a spoon to ladle the dressing over the salad. Do not pour from the pitcher; you loose control. The recipe will designate tossing at this point or not, depending on the salad type.

drizzling ingredients

Drizzling ingredients

Often these ingredients will be hot, so use a spoon or baster. Take a small amount in a large spoon and drip it onto the top of the cake or dish. Keep track of where you have dripped it so that you can cover it evenly.

dropping dough onto cookie sheet

Dropping cookie dough on the sheet

The recipe will designate a size such as rounded teaspoon, etc. Scoop the dough in the suggested spoon and cup your hand over it to ensure

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that it is rounded or level, depending on what the recipe calls for. Transfer it to the cookie sheet and use the index finger of the hand not holding the spoon to slide the dough out of the spoon onto the baking sheet. If the recipe calls for 2 inches apart, use 3 fingers together to measure 2 inches.

dusting meat

Dusting meat

This process is also called dredging meats. Put the required flour, cornmeal or wheat germ in a bowl of sufficient size to hold the meat and to turn it over. Lay a strip of meat in the bowl and toss a little flour or cornmeal on top. Turn the meat once or twice without excessive handling. Shake the excess dry ingredient off the meat and transfer the meat to a platter. If the flour seems a little dusty to you, toast it at 350 degrees for 5 minutes to settle it down.

flouring a surface

Flouring a surface

A recipe often calls for a lightly floured surface for rolling out pastries or other dough. Make sure the surface is scrupulously clean and dry. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons on the surface and spread it around with your hands in a circular motion. You don't want any ripples of flour left behind; this would dry out your pastry. Keep the canister handy in case you need to re-flour during the rolling process.

fluting pastry

Fluting pastry

If you want a wavy edge to your pie crust, it's really easy. Once you have flopped the pastry in the dish and it is hanging over an inch or so, use the edge of a table knife to cut off the excess. Use a downward motion and have the knife come in contact with the outermost edge of the pie pan. It will cut itself away and fall off as you go. Then press the index and middle fingers down on the pie crust edge, about 1/2 inch apart. Moosh the pie dough up between these two fingers and pick them up. Leave a little space and do it again. Continue to rotate the

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pie around until you have fluted the whole edge. Work fast so that your crust does not start to dry out.

folding ingredients

Folding ingredients

The object of this process is to mix the ingredients without bruising the integrity of any one ingredient. For example, you would like to combine whipped cream with other ingredients, but you do not want to deflate the cream. Place the most fragile ingredient on the top. Scoop a spat­ ula or scraper down the sides of the bowl and draw a bit of the bottom ingredient to the top in a circular movement. Gently cover the fragile ingredient, but do not stir it. Continue to do this repeatedly until you think the ingredients are blended, but not broken down. Test by remov­ ing a small spoonful from the bowl. Test it by taste or by fingers to see if they seem blended. Once you have experience with certain recipes, you will have a sense of how much time it will take to fold the ingredi­ ents. Cook's hint is to fold in any sugar you might want at the end of the process to make the ingredients more tender.

frosting glasses

Frosting glasses

Run hot tap water over drinking glasses or beer mugs. Pour all excess liquid out of the glass. Place in the freezer so they do not touch each other. They will be frosted in about a half-hour.

grating cheese

Grating cheese

The best graters are the boxed cylinders which collect the cheese inside. It is easy to keep a steady pressure with this kind of grater. Hold the handle on top with one hand. Grip the cheese with your hand well out of the way of the grater. Choose the fine or heavier grate depending on your preference or the final use of the product. Grate a few strokes and turn cheese so that you are not always following the same grooves. Watch that last few inches. I find it safer to leave a few inches on the brick than to try to squeeze out those last few shreds.

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If you are using a flat grater, place one handle on the cutting board or counter to steady the grater. Grip the other handle with one hand and tilt the grater 45 degrees. Use the same steady downward motion, but be aware of the possibility that the other end might slip. Have a plate or large enough bowl underneath these graters to catch the cheese. If you plan to use the cheese immediately, grate over a paper towel, so you can fold it up and transfer the cheese to not miss a morsel.

grating nutmeg

Grating nutmeg

There is nothing quite like a fresh grate of nutmeg atop a milky drink or in a Latin American dish. If you do not have a special nutmeg grater, not to worry. Use the finest part of the grater that you do have and use the same technique as you would for cheese. Since the nutmeg is so small, be very careful not to include any knuckles in the grating.

greasing and flouring pans

Greasing and flouring pans

Follow a recipe's suggestions for greasing, greasing and flouring, greasing only bottom of pan, etc. Dip a folded paper towel into the shortening can to scoop out the desired amount. Spread it evenly on the pan in an organized pattern to avoid missing spots. You will find your own pattern to use for a variety of spreads such as cake frosting, peanut butter and other times when an even spread is essential. For example, you might choose a grid pattern, spread from left to right, dropping an inch, spread from right to left and so forth. Turn the pan and repeat the process.

Sprinkle a few tablespoons of flour into the pan. Tilt pan in all four directions to allow the flour to stick to the shortening. Repeat this pro­ cess several times. Then tilt the pan upside down into the trash to get rid of excess flour. Do not touch the inside of the pan or you will disturb the floured surface.

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grinding pepper

Grinding pepper

Mmmmm...freshly ground pepper. Keep your grinder relatively full. Too full and the grains come out too large. Almost empty and the grinder does not work properly. Perform a test to get to know your grinder. Grind out 8 or 10 times and measure the result. Then esti­ mate how many grinds it will take to get 1/8 teaspoon, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/ 2 teaspoon, etc. Measure carefully with measuring spoons until you know how many grinds it takes to get each measurement. Then you never have to measure again! When you are ready to experiment, you might try white peppers, lemon peppers and other varieties.

juicing citrus fruits

Juicing citrus fruits

I love my electric juicer for large amounts of fresh orange juice or mar­ garitas. Juicing by hand is not difficult, though. Roll the fruit on the counter pressing down with the heel of your hand. This breaks some of the pulp membranes and makes it easier to extract the juice. Hold the fruit in one hand pressing the stem end with the thumb and the other end with the fingers. Cut the fruit in half with a sharp knife so that when it falls open, the ends are on the bottom. Hold over a cup or bowl large enough to hold twice as much juice as you will need. Working from the outsides of the cut edges of the fruit, squeeze gently. Move towards the middle and then work your way towards the end of the fruit. If there are particularly stubborn sections, you can turn it over and gouge with your fingers to release the juices. If you have a rather old fruit, you might try microwaving it for 10-20 seconds to release the juice before cutting.

kneading dough

Kneading dough

The process of kneading dough brings the ingredients in closer contact with each other and encourages the gluten from the flour. This makes the dough more elastic. Different recipes will ask for different degrees of kneading. For example, Angel Biscuits only want 3-4 strokes,

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whereas Mamaw's Perfect Dressing bread takes a much heavier hand. Making fresh pasta falls somewhere in between. The recipe should be specific about the degree of kneading, but it is safer to err on the light side.

The ingredients are thoroughly mixed before turning out. Make sure the surface is clean and dry. Sprinkle a little flour (2-3 tablespoons) onto the surface and spread around with both hands. When both hands and the surface are lightly powdered, turn the dough out by turn­ ing the bowl upside down on the surface. Handle gently. Form a ball in the middle of the surface. Place both fists together with thumbs touch­ ing. Then turn fists at about a 90-degree angle from each other. Open fingers slightly. Using the heals of your fists, press slightly forward and downward gently into the middle of the ball. Fold the dough in half from the right side and rotate 90 degrees to the right. Repeat the motion for as long as the recipe asks for. If the dough is too sticky to handle, sprinkle a little flour on the outside of the ball. If you need a very elastic dough, you will pinch it to test it. Take a walnut size piece of dough in one hand and stretch it with the other until it breaks. Drop it on the counter. Then feel the shape. If it is elongated and pointed, it is not elastic. If it curled back up into a ball, you have achieved elasticity. Eventually, you will know what the dough should feel like. You will be able to adjust the flour according to the weather or the quality of the ingredients just like the pros.

layering casseroles

Layering casseroles

Cool all ingredients so that you can handle them. Use your hands to judge how much of each ingredient there is if the recipe calls for multi­ ple layers of the same ingredient. The order is usually important. Also make sure the layers are evenly distributed. If a sauce is to come last, save a little more of it than you have put in other layers. You will want everything well covered with the sauce in the end so that other ingredi­ ents do not dry out in cooking. To cover or not to cover a casserole with a lid or foil is also important. Follow the recipe on this issue. If it says nothing, do not cover.

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letting dough rise

Letting dough rise

Allowing the yeast to do its chemical thing will encourage your success with leavened recipes. If the directions say to let the dough double in size, do the following. Place the dough in a ceramic bowl and cover lightly with a kitchen towel. If your climate is very dry, dampen the towel slightly first. Store in a warm place away from drafts, such as inside a gas stove with only the pilot light on or close to the water heater. It will take a couple of hours for it to double in size, but check the initial size carefully, so you will know when that has happened.

making bread crumbs

Making bread crumbs

For dry bread crumbs: Dry the sliced bread out overnight. Crumble the bread into fine grains by hand or zip it through the blender or food pro­ cessor. If you are caught short of time, process crackers instead. If you do not have a blender or food processor, put the crackers in a self- sealing plastic bag. Roll them with a rolling pin or the side of a glass or a can from the pantry.

For fresh bread crumbs: Simply blend or process bread slices that are fresh. They will absorb less oil in cooking.

making coffee

Making coffee

Ah...the daily grind! I can mark the decades of my life and personal development by how I was making coffee at the time. I have suffered though instant coffee, percolated the grounds, boiled cowboy java over an open fire with eggshells to promote settling, and dripped it a hun­ dred different ways. I have settled on a method which has taken two shapes. I think I'll be sticking with them.

The concept is to grind the coffee as finely as possible, use a cone fil­ ter, and pour fresh water just below the boiling point over the coffee. You can use less coffee if you spend a little more for good beans. Use

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a hand grinder set at the absolute finest or run an electric grinder until the coffee is powdered. Place it in a permanent gold filter or a paper fil­ ter resting in a cone filter, either ceramic or plastic. Place the cone filter over the final receptacle, such as a ceramic or glass pot. Boil spring water and then let it rest for 15 seconds before pouring over ground coffee. Pour directly in the middle, not around the edges of the cone. My ratio is one heaping tablespoon of beans per mug of coffee. You will need to experiment to find your favorite. At the height of my obses­ sion, I would use only Swedish water which was never allowed to touch metal. I have given up some of the ritual and have even been known to use a Krupps dripper with an automatic timer. I still insist on good water free of chlorine and good coffee beans.

making popcorn

Making popcorn

What's a Friday night fright flick without a bowl of corn? The best pop­ corn has a regulated amount of moisture in it to ensure the best pop­ ping. The concept is: • To pour the corn into the pan with heated, but not smoking, oil. • To keep the corn moving so that it does not burn as it pops. • To keep it at a moderately high heat as it cooks. • To turn off the heat as the last kernel pops. • To remove it from the pot immediately.

All of this takes an experiment or two to get it down perfectly for your popcorn maker or stove. Experiment to see how little oil you can use and still pop that last kernel. It will taste better.

Try some seasoning in the butter, if you use it. For example, a really fancy snack is the popcorn dressed with a hint of Italian seasoning in a splash of butter...all sprinkled lightly with Parmesan cheese. Roll the film!

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mincing vegetables

Mincing vegetables

The same technique is used as for chopping. Again, I will use an onion as an example.

Place the peeled onion on the cutting board. Roll it a bit so that it finds its natural resting place. Hold the onion with one hand and leave a two-inch arc between the top of the onion and the bottom of the hand. Slide your chef's knife between your hand and the onion. The cutting motion is firm and forward. Repeat quartering process until the onion is in 8-10 pieces. Chop each piece by placing it on the cutting board with the flattest side down. Rest the non-knife hand on the cutting board with fingers curled under and thumbs out of the way. You will guide the vegetable toward the knife with this hand. With the knife hand, grip the handle and let the blade touch the board. The knife hand should come down with the blade in such a way that it hangs over the board, letting the full length of the blade make contact with the board. Cut the onion pieces. The blade will be perpendicular to the board with the back of the blade resting against the curled fingers of the other hand. The trick is cutting down and forward or down and back­ ward. The resulting pieces are one quarter the size of a sugar cube. Use your hands to check for uniformity in size.

mixing batter

Mixing batter

Stir batter slowly at first to avoid a dust storm of dry ingredients. A rec­ ipe will often ask you to mix dry ingredients and wet ones separately and then add them gradually together. Similarly, you might be asked to add eggs one at a time. To ensure even mixing, stop several times and scrape the sides and the bottom of the bowl with a rubber scraper. If mixing with a long handled spoon, keep a saucer at the side to put the wet spoon on. Get in there with your hands to make sure everything is fully mixed.

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opening cans

Opening cans

Spend a few extra dollars and get a good can opener. It will last longer and be friendlier to you. Find the top of the can. Its lip will be more pro­ nounced than the bottom. It doesn't really hurt anything to open the bottom; it's just more difficult. Wash the lid of the can first in case it slips into the ingredients. Grasp the can opener handles in one hand and the twisting mechanism in the other. Spread the handles open slightly, about two inches apart. Using the two interlocking cogs that feel like teeth, grab the lip of the can and close the handles slowly with the handles. The two arms of the handles are atop each other and parallel to the counter. Applying even pressure, twist the turning mech­ anism clockwise. Even pressure on the handles will support the can in an upright position. If it should slip off the can, just back up a little and start the process in a portion of the lid that is already open. If the lid should slip into the ingredients, lift it out with a knife blade or fork tine, not your finger.

opening jars

Opening jars

Hold the jar in one hand and rap it smartly on the bottom with the heel of your other hand. Then whack the lid's lip with a table knife handle at four spots. The jar should open easily. A particularly stubborn lid will come off with a rubber glove. If the lid is difficult because it has crystal­ lized sugar, such as a honey jar, run hot water over it for a minute to liq­ uefy the sugar. In fact, hardened honey or syrup can be tamed after 30 seconds in the microwave.

opening wine and champagne bottles

Opening wine and champagne bottles

Score the metal casing at the top of the bottle just under the lip with a knife or the end of a corkscrew. Peel back only that section. My favor­ ite corkscrews have been the winged variety with a straight shaft encased by the screw-shaped component. Place the round loop lined with a plastic ring atop the bottle of wine. The whole mechanism should be manipulated until it is as straight up and down as possible.

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The wings will hang down. Hold the ring in place with one hand while aiming the point of the corkscrew directly down into the cork with the other. Twisting the mechanism from the top, gently press the cork­ screw further and further into the cork as it twists. The winged sides will start to rise. When they are pointing toward the ceiling, the screw is completely in, but not through the cork. Steadying the bottle flat on the counter, grasp one wing in each hand and gently bring them back down to their original position. This will lift the cork out. You may then twist the cork back off the corkscrew and use it in the bottle. Allow red wines 20-30 minutes to breathe before serving.

Champagne bottles do not have to intimidate you. Hold a towel over the cork and grab the cork with one hand. With the bottle flat on the counter, grasp the widest portion with the other hand. Hold the cork still and twist the bottle. When you start to feel the cork give, do not panic and let go. Just continue to twist the bottle gently. Hold the cork down as you turn. You really don't want it to pop unless you are making a movie; that releases a lot of the bubbly. Put a little water over the ice in the bucket to loosen it up a bit. If you are caught short for time, sprin­ kle a little rock salt over the ice as you would for an ice cream maker.

packing brown sugar

Packing brown sugar

Use a nested measuring cup the required size. Pack the brown sugar in the cup as tightly as you can get it to fit until it is level with the top of the cup. Then crumble it out of the cup so that it does not remain packed.

proofing yeast

Proofing yeast

Be sure the expiration date has not passed on your yeast. Old yeast really does not have what it takes. Measure the required amount of yeast into a small ceramic cup. Pour fairly hot tap water in the required amount over the yeast. It will bubble a little. Let it rest for 5-7 minutes in a warm place.

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pounding meat

Pounding meat

The process will make the meat more tender and will result in a thinner, more even product. Place the meat between two pieces of plastic or in a large plastic bag. Put flat on a counter that has been slickened with a small bit of water. Pound with a meat tendering mallet, hammer or other flat, heavy instrument. Turn after every 3-4 strokes so that meat breaks down evenly. Follow the suggestions in the recipe for thickness. The space from the end of your thumb to your knuckle is an inch.

pouring batter into pan

Pouring batter into pan

Hold the mixing bowl full of batter 6 inches above the middle of the pre­ pared pan. Tilt bowl until the batter spills into pan. With the bowl still tilted, scrape it with rubber scraper until all batter is in the pan. Using an organized pattern can help to get all of the batter out of the bowl.

Pouring liquid ingredients

Pouring liquid ingredients

When transferring liquid ingredients from one container to another, hold the full container in one hand and the empty one in the other with one finger draped over the lip. Place the empty container flat on a counter top and slide your finger inside down to the level that you would like the liquid to reach. Pour slowly until you feel the liquid reach the level you have marked with your finger. Electronic level indicators are available and handy for hot liquids, such as coffee.

preparing muffin tins

Preparing muffin tins

Paper muffin cups are available now with separated little aluminum foil outer layers. They make baking muffins easy. Then you can slip them out of the foil portion, microwave for 30 seconds and slip back into the foil portion. They stay hot for quite some time.

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If you prefer to prepare the tins, dip a middle finger into the shortening can and coat it. Then run it around the inside of each cup of the muffin tin and coat very lightly. If you are not baking a full dozen, fill the remaining cups with water so that they all bake evenly.

puréeing ingredients

Puréeing ingredients

Use a blender or food processor. The recipe generally tells you how long or to what stage to purée. Some ingredients, such as basil leaves, are tender and don't want bruising. The result should be a well blended liquid, sometimes thick and sluggish, sometimes runny.

quartering potatoes

Quartering potatoes

If a recipe calls for potatoes to be quartered and sliced, begin by scrub­ bing the potato well. Remember that it grows underground. Determine if it needs to be peeled or not. Save the peelings for stocks. Place the potato on the cutting board and let it find its stable resting place. Place the fingers of one hand on the long side of the potato and the thumb of that same hand on the opposite long side, leaving an arch formed by the palm of the hand. Slide the blade of the chef's knife under that arch. Grasp the potato firmly and apply a careful, even slicing motion in one direction to the potato. The result is a potato halved lengthwise. Turn one half so that the cut side is down on the cutting board. Repeat the slice with the stable half. Repeat with the other half after turning it over to stabilize. You now have quarters that you can evenly slice for potato salad or soup.

rolling out pastry

Rolling out pastry

Handling the pastry as little as possible will result in a flakier, lighter product. Flour a pastry board by gently sprinkling a few tablespoons with your hand or use a pastry cloth. Turn the dough out onto the sur­ face. Rub a little flour onto your rolling pin. Gently roll out the pastry from the center, first horizontally and then vertically. Repeat at the two

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o'clock position and ten o'clock position. Repeat the process in all directions until the pastry is the desired size.

To tell if it is the correct size, Place the pie pan upside down on the pastry. It should extend about 4 inches beyond the pan. Remove the pan. Gently fold the pastry in half and then into fourths to make lifting easy. Lift the pastry and place the point of the fold in the center of the pan. Gently unfold the pastry. It should hang over the side of the pan. With a table knife, use a downward motion to cut off the excess dough. Do not try to cut around, as this will tear and shove the dough around. If you want to flute the edges, place two fingers on the edge pointing toward the center of the pan. With your other hand, squish the dough between the two fingers so that it produces a wavy design. Prick the dough in eight places before baking. Some recipes might call for you to bake the crust with a layer of dried beans or rocks. In this case, you will put a layer of aluminum foil on the crust and evenly weight the surface with small pebbles or dried beans. This will allow the crust to bake evenly and beautifully.

salt and pepper to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Since tolerances for salt and tastes for pepper vary wildly, a recipe often asks you to decide how much you want. If you are making mashed potatoes, for example, cup one hand and shake as much salt as you would include for your one portion. Then repeat for as many servings as you have. Go a little shy, and taste before adding last bit of salt. Estimate ground pepper using the same technique.

separating eggs

Separating eggs

There are, of course, egg separators available. You can also use a slotted spoon and let the white run through the slots. Here is another technique that assures that you get all the separation needed. Have two cups or mugs ready. Whack the egg gently on the countertop or the rim of one cup. Immediately turn the egg so that the crack is hori­ zontal and the egg is not escaping from within. Gently open the egg shell so that you have two nice halves of the shell with the egg in one

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half. The egg white will start to overflow into the cup. When most of it has slipped out, pour the egg into the other half of the shell. More white will ooze out into the cup. Repeat this process several times. Then dump the egg yolk into the other cup.

If you will be making meringue or whipping the whites, it is important to get absolutely no yolk into the whites. If I need whites for this purpose I usually line up as many cups as I have eggs on the off-chance that one yolk escapes me. That way only one egg is ruined and not the whole batch. If you have egg whites leftover after using the yolks, whip them stiff. They make great complexion revitalizer. Let them dry on your skin. The feel is amazing!

shaving chocolate

Shaving chocolate

Use the slicing blade on your cheese grater to shave firm chocolate. If it is warm in the house, chill the chocolate slightly first. Hold the slicer at a slight angle with one hand and drag the chocolate along the edge of the slicer. As with grating cheese, be careful not to catch a knuckle on the edge. If you need curls of shaved chocolate, place the choco­ late on a cutting board and use a cheese cutter or butter curler to gouge little curls from the hunk of chocolate. Again, careful with the fin­ gers. It is always better to waste a little...tasty, too.

shredding meat

Shredding meat

Sometimes meat needs to be shredded, either to take on the flavors of a sauce or to present an appropriate texture. The recipe will tell you whether or not to shred meat raw, half-cooked or fully cooked. Make sure it is cool enough to handle. Remember that the inside of the meat will be much hotter than the outside. Cut the meat into pieces easy to handle and tear it into shreds by hand. If the recipe should neglect to tell you the size of shred, estimate it by the size of the other things in the dish. For example, in Marinated Chicken Salad with Pasta, Grapes, and Cashews you can take your cue from the size of the other ingredi­

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ents. Shred the chicken slightly larger than the fruit and pasta so that it dominates the flavors.

shredding vegetables

Shredding vegetables

Follow the same basic procedure as you would for grating cheese. If the vegetable is high in water, such as zucchini, be careful not to bruise the vegetable by using too heavy a hand. Carrots, on the other hand, can take a little pressure.

sifting ingredients

Sifting ingredients

Many flours come presifted these days. I still like to sift my ingredients together, because I know they might sit on the shelf for some time. A little hand sifter is fine. Put the ingredients in the container over a bowl to catch falling flour, etc. Grasp the handle and pull it back and forth evenly. Some sifters have a rotating handle instead. Always sift before measuring.

slicing citrus for garnishing glasses

Slicing citrus for garnishing glasses

If your drink has orange, lemon or lime juice in it and you would like a slice to spruce up your glass, take the slice from the very middle of the fruit. With the ends of the fruit to the left and right, hold the fruit by the middle and cut it in half. Then take a thin, uniformly shaped slice off the middle. Lay the slice down on the cutting board and locate the very center of it. Poke the center with the point of the knife and make a cut out to the side. Make only that one cut radiating from the center to one edge. This is where you slip the slice onto the glass.

slicing meats

Slicing meats

The meat does not have to be completely thawed, if originally frozen. In fact, if it is still a little chilly in the center, it will slice more easily. If slicing beef, follow the recipe's suggestions concerning cutting with or against the grain. When in doubt, cut against the grain. Estimate the

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size of the piece you will want and how many pieces that will mean tak­ ing from the original hunk. Cut by the half-life theory. For example, if you need 8 pieces, cut in half. Then cut each of those in half and each in half again. Chicken is not as well behaved as beef, so be careful with its slipperiness. When you become practiced and understanding of how meat will act, you will be able to cut between your thumb and fin­ gers to get smaller pieces.

slicing vegetables

Slicing vegetables

If paper-thin slices are required, use the slicer on your cheese grater. Apply even pressure while keeping the vegetable at an angle. For thicker slices use a chef's knife. Hold the knife in one hand and curl the fingers under the other hand as for chopping vegetables. Once you have cut the ends off, you should have a nice vertical cut to use as a guide. Place the blade of the knife against the vertical cut and follow it up till you reach the top of the vegetable. Move the blade toward the hand that is holding the vegetable until the desired thickness is reached. Then cut down and forward. The most dangerous section is the last few cuts, so watch your fingers. Julienne refers to slicing vege­ tables in long pencil sized shapes.

spooning dough into muffin tins

Spooning batter into muffin tins

Use a soup spoon or a small measuring cup and gather a heaping amount from the batter. Make sure it is not dripping before you transfer it. If some accidentally drips on the tin, wipe it up so that it does not burn. Locate the middle of the cup and aim for it. Fill the cup 1/2 to 2/3 full. If you are not baking a full dozen, fill the remaining cups with water.

storing leftovers

Storing leftovers

I think one of the hardest estimation tasks is which plastic container to put the leftovers in. I often end up washing an extra because I mis­ judged. Put the leftover food into a container with a minimum of left­

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over space. Air is not our friend here. Also make sure the lid fits air­ tight. Try to keep the same types of leftovers in the same place in the fridge. This keeps the trolling to a minimum later on. In fact, I have dif­ ferent shapes for different items. For example, my lunches are always in small round ones. Meats are always in rectangular ones. Stocks are always in jars.

straining ingredients

Straining ingredients

When draining ingredients, you generally are trying to capture the sol­ ids and discard the liquids. It is just the opposite for straining. Gener­ ally you would like to capture the liquids and retain the solids to discard or re-use. If you are straining something like a soup stock, line the col­ ander with a piece of cheesecloth. Then place the colander in a some­ what larger bowl in the sink. Transfer the liquid into the colander and lift it gently. Allow the liquid to drain through the colander and catch the solids in the cheesecloth. Gather up the edges of the cheesecloth and squeeze the solids to coax out the remaining liquid. If you need to do this while the liquid is too hot to handle, then use a large wooden spoon to press the liquid out against the cheesecloth on the sides of the col­ ander.

tossing ingredients

Tossing ingredients

The purpose of this technique is to cover all ingredients with a liquid such as dressing or to evenly distribute ingredients. If the ingredients are hot such as a pasta dish, use a pair of salad hands or two large cold meat forks. If the ingredients are cold, use your own clean hands. Start at the top of the bowl and move the instruments down the sides to the bottom. Gently lift the ingredients up turning over all ingredients several times. The bowl should be a third larger than the ingredients it holds so that nothing escapes.

Tying artichokes

Cut the stem and the top of the artichoke off. Snip the end of each leaf with kitchen shears. Place a lemon slice atop the artichoke so that it

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will not discolor. Wrap it with cotton kitchen twine vertically and then again horizontally so that all the leaves are secure. The artichoke is now ready to be boiled for 45 minutes.

using a blender

Using a blender

The blender can be quite useful once you get to know what your partic­ ular appliance does to different foods. The danger lies in over process­ ing the food. Fruits will bruise, and sauces will weep if left too long. Test a new food by just pulsing a time or two to see how the food acts. Never touch a dial with the lid off or you'll be looking for stuff on the ceil­ ing. Determine which consistency the recipe wants...blend, purée, etc. This might not always match the dials or buttons on your appliance. Do a pulse test and continue until you feel the consistency you desire. Grinding ice in a blender can dull your blades. Crack the ice a bit in a towel with a mallet before putting it into the blender.

using a chafing dish

Using a chafing dish

The purpose of a chafing dish is to keep foods warm for a long period of time, usually during an open house or buffet. The idea is to use a small candle or liquid flame under a heavy dish that will distribute that heat. Foods with some liquids, such as dips or meatballs in sauce work the best. As with any other appliance, you just have to get to know your piece of equipment. There are questions to keep in mind. How long can I leave it before it burns out and food becomes cold? How long can I leave it and not have foods stick? Where is a safe place to put it so that no one bumps it or accidentally snags a handle? Where can I put it so that people do not have to reach too far over other foods to get to the contents? Once you pay attention to these details, you can let the dish languish so that you can enjoy yourself.

using a crock pot

Using a crock pot

The concept at work here is long, very slow cooking. It works espe­ cially well with cheaper cuts of meat that need a slow, tenderizing pro­

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cess. As with all appliances, you have to get to know your model. Try it out the first time while you are home, so that you can check it occasion­ ally during the cooking time to make sure the liquid is not cooking away. Layer meats on the bottom, then vegetables, then pour the liquids over all.

You can also use the crock pot on its lowest setting to keep mulled wine or wassail drinks hot. Remember that the element inside is very hot and so is the crock itself. It will remain so for some time after you turn off the appliance.

using a food processor

Using a food processor

I cooked for 30 years without a food processor, so I know that a good knife is all you really need. However, I would not trade mine for any­ thing. It enables me to get evenly thin slicing on potatoes and to whip ingredients evenly. I will not presume to give instruction on its use here. Each instrument is different and has different technique requirements and safety concerns. For safety reasons, I will uncharacteristically urge you to rely on a sighted friend to acquaint you with the printed instruc­ tions. My best advice is to not try to circumvent the safety features for convenience or expedience. Sticking a wooden spoon into the hopper to stir, even if the motor is off, is very dangerous. All of those safety features really are there for a reason. They are quite easy to use once you figure out how to assemble the apparatus properly. Food proces­ sors can be safer than conventional knifes and slicers when used prop­ erly. And they will allow you to process large amounts of food in a short time.

using a hand mixer

Using a hand mixer

An electric hand mixer is a great compromise for those of us with less space or money. The only danger seems to be accidentally pulling the beaters out while the mixer is still running. Believe me, you will only do that once. Insert the desired beaters in the holes on the bottom of the mixer and listen for the snap of the locking mechanism. Some brands have a square and a round beater stem so that they only fit one way.

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Make sure you have adequate liquid in the ingredients so that flour does not dust your counter and you. Stick the beaters down into the ingredients and start with a very slow speed. Increase speed slowly and move the beaters around in the ingredients. When you think they might be about halfway mixed, turn the mixer off and place the mixer on its heel with the beaters dripping over the bowl. Use a scraper and pull the unblended ingredients off the bottom and sides of the bowl. Repeat the process. When you think it is completely finished, stick your finger all the way to the bottom and stir once to make sure there are no left­ over ingredients. If there are, repeat the process several times.

using a juicer

Using a juicer

Most electric citrus juicers work on the principle of rotation triggered by pressure. Cut the fruit in half and hold over the rotating cone. Press down gently on the fruit and the cone will start to rotate. Press the sides of the fruit into the rotation device and turn a bit as you go. The sieve should catch the pulp and seeds as the juice falls into the vessel.

using a mortar

Using a mortar

A mortar or spice mill is not essential. You can use a pottery bowl and the blunt handle end of a wooden spoon. What is essential is the blending of the spices. You want to crush the oregano leaves or dried chiles or other ingredients and mix their flavors before adding them to the recipe. Sometimes the recipe wants a paste of garlic and spices. Whatever is called for should be evenly blended. Hold the mortar or bowl containing the ingredients in one hand and the pestle or spoon handle in the other. With even pressure applied to the bottom of the mortar or bowl, grind away with a downward and outward twisting movement. Repeat half a dozen times or so and check the ingredients to see if they feel even.

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using a toaster oven

Using a toaster oven

A toaster oven saves on electricity and is quite efficient in heating quickly. Its obvious use is for toast. There is usually a sensor some­ where in the bottom, often bottom-front. There must be a piece of bread over this for the toaster to sense doneness.

I love to use mine for small casseroles and virtually anything that will fit. Remember to have a little space around the edges of your pan so that air can circulate.

using cooking spray

Using cooking spray

This is a great way to hold down the fat and calories in a dish. Spray the product on the skillet, cookie sheet or baking dish. Hold both spray and dish well away from stove, oven or flame. Aerosol propellant is extremely flammable. Feel for the exit hole of the spray nozzle and hold about 4 inches from the surface to be sprayed. Spray the product evening and thinly over the surface. A pattern of moving the spray would be helpful here, too.

Using parchment paper

Parchment paper is useful in distributing heat and a steamy effect for baked goods. To cut a paper to fit your round pan perfectly, fold a square into a triangle. Repeat the process in halves six times, keeping the same point of the triangle to your left. Place this point in the center of your round pan and trim the other end with kitchen shears so that it fits the pan. Unfold the triangle and it will cover the bottom of the pan.

To create a "hot house" effect for baking fruit, create a pouch of the paper as if it were an envelope. Seal it tight, trapping air inside.

71 At the counter

using prepared mixes

Using prepared mixes

I like to cook without preservatives and other chemicals in my ingredi­ ents. It is also so much cheaper to buy a bag of macaroni and to use fresh cheeses, for example. Just as easy to fix and so much tastier. With all that said, I will testify that it is great to pull a boxed mix out on occasion. A banana-nut muffin or a pan of brownies in 20 minutes can be awfully attractive when energy is low or time is short. When the third grader comes to you and says she needs 24 cupcakes for the spring picnic...tomorrow...just pull out that box of cake mix. Keep a small vari­ ety of items on hand for just such emergencies.

using the microwave oven

Using the microwave oven

One of the goals of this book is to tear the cook away from this seduc­ tive machine. So many of the microwave foods are crammed with pro­ cessed ingredients, preservatives and additives. I still would not trade mine in, for almost anything. It is invaluable for many preparations: warming water to add to the soup pot, melting butter, softening an old lime for juicing. And, of course, nothing beats it for heating leftovers. Like any other appliance, it requires a little bit of experimentation to know how it will treat ingredients. Here are some simple rules. Clean the sides, top and bottom when you are wiping counters and washing dishes. Food will cook on and interfere with its operation later. Never put metals of any kind in the oven. Test it the first few times you use it for each kind of food. Stop the cooking time a little short and test the food, then continue. Remember that food continues to cook after the oven is off. Respect the suggested cooking times. For example, a cup of water might take 5-10 minutes to boil. But a friend tells me that if you leave it in a microwave that long, the water boils out, the mug cracks, and the oven goes to the shop. He knows.

Each brand of oven is different, so you will have to get that legendary "sighted friend" to help you learn to calibrate and program it. Many of the new microwaves have control panels that are difficult to feel. They can be marked with Braille numbers on Dymo tape. Thin pieces of the

72 At the counter

tape can also be placed in a grid pattern around the rows of numbers. Many people still feel that the older type of oven with a dial is easier to use and doesn't require any tactile markings at all.

warming plates

Warming plates

Many recipes ask that you remove ingredients to a warm platter or that you serve at the table on warm plates. This is an important final touch for keeping the dish as it should be. And an easy to accomplish one. If you have many plates, such as for a Thanksgiving dinner, warm them in the dry cycle of your dishwasher. If your dishwasher has dirty dishes or you have only a few plates, run hot water over them and dry. I have seen cooks do this in the bottom section of a gas oven, but I would not suggest this unless you really know your appliance.

washing dishes

Washing dishes

When washing dishes by hand, start with lots of soap and water as hot as you can touch and still be comfortable. Begin with glasses. Touch­ ing glasses underwater can break them, so do them one at a time. Then proceed with cutlery and silverware, plates, serving dishes, pots and pans. If space is a premium, stop between stages, dry the dishes and put them away. As you put them away, check the dishes by feeling for leftover bits of food.

If you are using a dishwasher, fill the dishwasher in the most space effi­ cient way, without nesting items. Glasses and bowls on the top, plates and pots on the bottom, tableware in its basket. Ask your local appli­ ance dealer about the water in the area. You might be surprised that you only need half the soap recommended by the manufacturer.

whipping cream

Whipping cream

Put a narrow deep mixing bowl and your hand mixer beaters into the freezer. Chill one hour. Put one cup whipping cream and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar in the bowl. Whip at the highest possible speed until it

73 At the counter

peaks. Test this by stopping the beaters. Get a small dollop on the end of your finger to see if it falls off. When it stays on, it is thick enough. If you are using a hand-held electric mixer, tilt the bowl a little with one hand. Using a hand beater is not impossible. The idea is to get as much air into the cream as possible, so you want to do it fast and furi­ ously. I even tried a fork at the campsite once, but it turned to butter.

whisking ingredients

Whisking ingredients

My father helped me wood-burn a cover for my cookbook. It won a prize in the regional Brownie cookbook contest when I was 8. The prize was a wire whisk. I still use it. A fork would work adequately, but there seems to be nothing quite like the whisk itself. The ingredients should fill the bowl or pan only halfway for a good whisking. Tilt the bowl slightly and place the whisk so that it gently touches the bottom of the vessel. With a firm but not outrageous motion, make circular, clock­ wise movements that describe a circle from the bottom of the pan to the top of the level of liquid being whisked. The idea is to mix all the ingre­ dients into a smooth, viscous consistency. If eggs are involved in a major way, add a few drops of water to break the surface tension.

zesting citrus fruits

Zesting citrus fruits

A zester is like a tiny cheese grater. If you do not have a zester, use the smallest holes in your cheese grater. Use the same technique as for grating cheese, only use a lighter touch. Use small, feathery strokes and take only the outermost part of the rind off the fruit. You do not want any of the bitter inner white layer of the skin.

74 On the stove

On the stove

Once the ingredients have all been prepared, you are ready to roll. On with the actual cooking! It often takes years of chopping and washing for a professional chef to graduate to the stove, but we are ready now. Counter space is always at a premium. I think if I had double the space that I do, it would still not be enough. One thing I try to always do, though, is have some space around the stove free for use during cook­ ing. The stove itself should be uncluttered. Pot handles should always be turned inward. Your arrangement of where each dish cooks should be governed by the size of the burners and pots as well as by which ones will need more attention. You do not want to reach over a bub­ bling pot to frequently stir something behind it. I always keep a long- handled fork in the same place for quick reach. It becomes an exten­ sion of my arm and I don't have to feel around for pot handles or lids. I use the fork as a locator. This section will help you bring the pot lids into a crashing crescendo in our symphony of preparation.

adding water to soups

Adding water to soups

When trying to keep the level of liquids constant in a soup, you have several techniques at your disposal. One possibility is to not cook the soup uncovered. Put the lid on the soup pot and then cock it so that steam can escape and the liquids can simmer inside without pressure. The tilted lid will allow the steam to condense and fall back inside. When adding liquid to the soup, the recipe will say whether you should add stock, water or another liquid. The key is for it to be hot, so that the cooking is not interrupted. Heat the liquid in another small pot or for a minute in the microwave.

boiling and peeling eggs

Boiling and peeling eggs

This is actually a misnomer. The eggs are hard-cooked, not boiled. Prick the large end of the egg with a pin or toothpick. There is actually an egg pricker available. I got mine as a joke gift, but have loved it ever since. Pricking the shell breaks the membrane of the white and makes it possible for the sulfuric acid to escape. It also makes for easier peel­

75 On the stove

ing later. Place the eggs in a pan of cold water. The pan should be large enough that it is only half full when the eggs are covered with cold water. Bring to a quick rapid boil and reduce heat so that they are sim­ mering quickly, but not rattling. Soft-boiled eggs stay for 3 minutes. Pull from burner and let stand in hot water for 5 minutes before peeling. Hard-cooked eggs stay for 10 minutes, then the additional 5 minutes. Drain the water from the pan and run cold water into it for 10 minutes. This is the point at which patience is a virtue. You are waiting for the acid to escape the egg through its membrane and shell. In this way, you will avoid the green tinged nasty smelling yolk of impatience. Drain and shake the eggs gently in the pan to crack the shells. Remove the eggs one at a time. Running cold water over them all the while, slip the shells off. If you have an egg that you are not sure has been boiled, spin it on the counter. A boiled egg will spin; a raw egg slides sluggishly.

boiling ingredients

Boiling water

If you need a particular measurement of boiling water, measure it first, bring it to a rapid boil and remove immediately so that it does not boil away and spoil your measurement. Alternately, you can put a non­ metal measuring cup of water with the required amount in the micro­ wave for 90 seconds.

browning meat

Browning meat

This process is usually meant to brown only the outside of the meat, not to cook it completely. Start in a cold pan on medium-high heat, unless oil should be heated first. When the meat does not slide around easily and starts to stick a little, it is browned. You will also start to smell the fat in the meat cooking. Turn with a fork or tongs and brown the other side.

76 On the stove

choosing a cooking temperature on the stove

Choosing a cooking temperature on the stove

I could not tell you what temperature my stove says I am using when simmering or boiling. It is a relative heat. On my stove it might say medium and on yours it would say medium-high. And as soon as I am blessed with a gas stove, I will have to learn that all over again. When getting to know the settings on your stove, start with high. There is usually a notch or some indication that you are on high or are turned off. It will usually click when you get there. Boil a pan of cold water to see how long that takes. Then reduce the heat bit by bit to see how the water reacts. What the recipes will refer to as medium-high will result in a simmer-boil. The ingredients are bubbling with a jaunty lilt, but are not boiling outright. Medium will indicate a slower simmer with occa­ sional burbles. Low will keep ingredients warm, but they will not con­ tinue to cook very much. Be particularly watchful the first time you cook a dish with dairy products such as milk or cheese. They will stick and burn quickly.

Once you have found what your stove will do, make note of it. You might want to mark high, medium and low with tape or nail polish. Make sure the surface is scrupulously clean first. If you are using nail polish, put a small dot on and let it dry. Then reapply several coats. It will last a long time.

If you are lucky enough to be cooking with gas, the notches are some­ times missing. Start at what you know to be high heat. Turn it toward off until you no longer hear gas. Hold your hand 6-8 inches above the flame to be sure there is heat. This will be low.

cooking candy

Cooking candy

Cooking sugared ingredients requires the knowledge of certain stages of doneness. Some recipes call for merely melting the ingredients before continuing. Others ask for the ingredients to reach varying stages of hardness. Test for the stages by dropping a 1/4 teaspoon dollop of the ingredients into a glass of cold water. Use an absolutely

77 On the stove

clean spoon. Wait 15 seconds. Reach into the glass and find the sugar. If it has melted into the water, it is not ready. Check for the fol­ lowing stages that might be requested in the recipe. Each type of candy will ask for a different one. There are talking candy thermome­ ters available, but they are not really necessary.

Thread - When reaching into the glass, you will find a 2-inch thread of ingredients which breaks apart when touched.

Soft ball - You will find a small ball of sugar that falls apart when mashed.

Firm ball - You will find a small ball that holds together but changes shape when mashed.

Hard ball - You will find a harder ball that does not change shape eas­ ily when mashed.

Soft crack - You will find a thread that you can lift out of the water and bend.

Hard crack - You will find a thread that you can lift out of the water. It will be brittle.

cooking pasta

Cooking pasta

Fill a large pot with water up to 3 inches from the top. Add 1/2 tea­ spoon salt and 1 teaspoon oil. The oil will help keep the pasta from boiling over. Bring the water to a rapid boil. Gently add the pasta and stir with a fork. Bring back to a rolling boil and set the timer. Al dente means the pasta will be slightly firm in the middle. A minute before the time is up, fish out a piece of pasta with a fork. Let the water drip back into the pot. Taste for doneness. An old trick is to throw the piece against the wall. If it sticks, it's done. Drain the pasta by pouring it away from you into a colander in the sink. To rinse or not to rinse is a personal choice. We are still having that war in our house.

78 On the stove

cooking rice

Cooking rice

Measure cold water into a pot with plenty of room for the rice to expand. Add salt and butter if needed. Bring to a gentle boil and add rice slowly. Bring back to a gentle simmer. Water should not sound as if it is boil­ ing, but you will hear a soft bubble. Cover tightly. Check twice during cooking time to make sure it is not cooking too fast. Lift lid and stir once or twice. Listen to make sure it is bubbling, but not boiling fast. Two minutes before the end of cooking time, taste for doneness. If you hear a sizzling sound at the bottom of the pot, it is about to scorch.

Brown and wild rices are a little different. They not only take longer to cook, but also want to be left alone. Once you have had success with one of these rices, note how long and at what setting you cooked it. Follow that formula again. I usually have a disaster with a new rice before figuring it out. Don't let that keep you from branching out with new rices, though. There are lots of nice ones out there.

Deglazing ingredients

The crystallized juices and fats that result from roasting meats and fowl make an excellent natural gravy, and you will need to deglaze them first. Heat them up on the stove in the original pan; then let them rest a minute or two. Pour off the fats into a container to discard. Add a cup of stock appropriate to the meat. Stir briskly as you heat it gently. Con­ tinue adding stock, heating slowly and stirring constantly. The juices will incorporate nicely. Remove from the stove when your desired con­ sistency is reached.

draining fried foods

Draining fried foods

Place a double layer of paper towel on a large plate or platter. Lift the food from the skillet or fryer with a fork or slotted spoon. Let excess fat drip back into the pan. Holding the plate about a foot above the pan, place the food on the toweling. Do not stack the food; keep it in a single layer. To make a second layer, place more paper toweling and repeat

79 On the stove

the process. Often a recipe will ask you to salt this food. In this case, salt lightly before you make another layer. Oils and fats can remain incredibly hot for some time. Respect the heat and protect yourself from pops and burns. Wear long sleeves. You might wear a thin mitt, but you really need to be able to feel what you are doing.

finding the spoon in the pot

Finding the spoon in the pot

If you leave the spoon in a hot pot, you don't want to find it with your hand. Run a fork around the rim of the pan until you hit the spoon. Lift it away from the rim of the pan slightly to avoid touching the hot pot. I try to use a spoon rest instead, but there is always that occasion when I lean the spoon against the side of the pot and lose track of it.

flipping pancakes

Flipping pancakes

Recipes tell you that pancakes are done when small bubbles appear in the center of the pancake or when steam ceases to rise. There is an alternative for us. I think it is worth it to waste a little batter the first time you try it in order to get the idea of how the ingredients react at different settings on your stove. Once you have a formula that works, it's a piece of cake (so to speak). Cook only one at a time and make it a little larger than the recipe says. Try holding your hand two inches above the pan­ cake. You might be able to feel the subtle change in vapor between raw and cooked. If not, try this method. Heat the griddle to medium-high. A drop of water will skittle around on the hot surface. Pour the batter on the griddle from a small measuring cup or pitcher with a pouring lip. After two minutes, check the edge by gently pushing the edge of the spatula under the cake. Slide it about a third of the way in. Pull the spatula out and give it a chance to cool off. Touch it. If it is clean, the pancake is ready to flip. If not, clean and dry the spatula and wait two more minutes. When it is ready, slide the spatula as far as it will go under the cake, at least halfway. Lift it up six inches and tilt the pan a little to meet the cake as it comes down. This will take practice. The first few tries will not be beautiful, but they will be delicious. You can always call them flopjacks instead of flapjacks until you get it down.

80 On the stove

frying bacon

Frying bacon

Place 4-6 strips of bacon in a cold skillet with one bacon strip's space in between each slice. Bring the skillet to medium-high heat. When bacon starts to sizzle, cook for 2 minutes. If it starts to pop, it wants lower heat. Grab the end of the strip with tongs and drag that end over the rest of the strip. Release tongs. This will flip the piece of bacon over. Turn all pieces. They will continue to sizzle. When the sound changes to a more frantic fry, the bacon is done. Remove with the tongs to a waiting plate covered with paper towels. When the pieces are cool enough to touch, you will be able to tell if they are crisp enough for you. Discard the grease carefully in a dry can to throw away when hardened. Do not put down the sink. It makes for yucky plumbing.

frying ingredients

Frying ingredients

If you fry often, an electric fryer or an electric skillet is quite good. It calibrates the oil and keeps it at that constant temperature. Some cooks only fry occasionally if at all, and it is helpful to know how oil will act and react. If you do not have an electric appliance, fill a skillet with 2 inches of oil. Test the depth with your finger before heating the oil. You might even want to try it for the first time in a deeper soup pot so that any pops will be caught by the sides of the pot. Make sure the pot or skillet has a lid that fits it. Place the lid and a mitt close by. If a fire should start, stay calm. Slip the mitt on, pick up the lid and put it on the pot. Turn the stove off and do not try to lift the pot. Walk away.

Start the oil at a lower temperature than is asked for in the recipe. For example, if it says to heat oil on medium-high heat, start a little lower. Take a pinch of the ingredient you will be frying and drop it in the oil. It should sizzle, but not smoke. When the sound dies down, the food is cooking. The test piece should cook faster because it is smaller, but not so fast that it is cooked on the outside and raw on the inside. Adjust the heat appropriately. Have plates with paper toweling close by to drain the cooked food on. The concept involves cooking the food as quickly as you can, inside and out, without burning the outside.

81 On the stove

making a roux

Making a roux

Roux serves as a thickening agent and appears in many Cajun and Creole dishes. Put the designated amount of oil into a heavy skillet. Heat over medium-high for several minutes. Sprinkle the designated amount of flour over the top of the oil and reduce the heat to medium. Stir constantly while it cooks for several minutes. It will become thick. Do not let it burn. If the spoon or spatula becomes difficult to move, remove from heat immediately. Some recipes will ask you to add onions or tomatoes at the end.

making a soup stock

Making a soup stock

A stock is the base for soups and stews. You can prepare them as you have the ingredients and store them in the refrigerator in jars. Pull them out when needed. Vegetable stocks are made from peelings, cel­ ery, onion or leek, and herbs. Start with cold water and create your own simmered flavor combinations.

Meat stocks are created from the water left from boiled or stewed meats. For example, if a recipe calls for boiled chicken breasts, save the water, add bay, celery, and leek greens. All stocks are cooked gen­ tly on the stove and then strained. Save only the juice and toss the other solid ingredients.

melting butter

Melting butter

If melting only small amounts of butter, use a plastic measuring cup in the microwave for 30 seconds or a metal measuring cup on the stove for 50 seconds. For larger amounts, use a saucepan on the stove. You will hear it sizzle a bit just before it is all melted. Remove it from the burner and let it continue to melt in the hot pan. If you leave it on the stove too long, it will turn brown, start to smoke and change flavor.

82 On the stove

preparing a griddle

Preparing a griddle

For pancakes or other griddle food, choose a griddle with a higher lip or sides. You might even want to learn in a skillet with higher sides to give you a point of reference. Pour 1/2 teaspoon of oil on the griddle when it is cold. Spread it around with a paper towel. Heat the griddle on medium-high until a drop of water skitters around. It is now ready to use. Pour batter on or add your ingredients.

pouring pancake batter

Pouring pancake batter

When your griddle or skillet is ready, dip a quarter cup measure into the bowl of batter. Drag the edge of the cup on the side of the bowl to scrape off excess batter. Trace the edge of the griddle with a fork to remind yourself of the dimensions. Locate the center and pour the bat­ ter into a puddle. If it is too thick to spread, add a little more milk to the bowl of batter. If it seems too thin and runny, add a little flour.

reducing ingredients

Reducing ingredients

This process is usually used for making a sauce more dense and fla­ vorful. For example, you might be asked to add white wine to sautéing mushrooms and reduce by half. Calculate how much liquid there is in the pan so that you will know when it has reduced. Cook at a brisk sim­ mer, stirring or whisking frequently. When it has reduced, remove from heat immediately.

sautéing vegetables

Sautéing vegetables

Measure oil into a cold sauté pan large enough to comfortably hold all the vegetables. Heat oil to medium-high. Add vegetables in reverse order of crispness. For example, if you are sautéing mushrooms, garlic and onions, start with the item you want the most cooked or wilted in the end. Garlic flavors the oil, then the onion, then the mushrooms. Stir gingerly and constantly with a wooden paddle or spoon so that the

83 On the stove

maximum surface of the vegetable is touching the pan and vegetables are moving around.

simmering ingredients

Simmering ingredients

The long, slow cooking of ingredients is often necessary to meld the flavors and to make a more complex mixture. Start off with a cold pot and room temperature ingredients. Bring to a gentle boil on medium- high heat and then reduce to medium or medium-low. You will hear the ingredients bubbling slowly but not boiling. Until you get accustomed to your stove, you will experiment to find that exact spot where the simmer becomes too rapid.

skimming ingredients

Skimming ingredients

You will be asked to skim ingredients, such as fats from stocks or skins from custards and puddings. Since this is a fairly visual process, you should not be afraid to lose a little of the ingredient. It is better to lose a little than to break up the very ingredient you are trying to get rid of and return it to the place you are trying to purify. You can dip a large spoon far enough below the surface that you are sure you are getting all the bad stuff. Have a vessel ready to remove the unwanted ingredients to. An empty can or plastic carton you will dispose of is perfect. My per­ sonal preference is to dip with a cloth or lay it on the surface of the liq­ uid to be removed. Gently raise the cloth so that you do not drip it back into the stock or pudding. Fold up the cloth and put it in the hot water laundry pile. I try to keep plenty of such towels on hand...enough so that I will be able to do a load of nothing but towels.

softening tortillas

Softening tortillas

Layered casseroles with corn tortillas require that the tortillas be soft. The recipe will often ask that you soften them in oil. Heat the oil in a large skillet on medium-high until a small piece of tortilla dropped into the oil will sizzle but not smoke. Leave it about 15 seconds. The tortilla will start to curl a bit. You can tell by patting the cooking food with a

84 On the stove

fork. When it starts to curl, remove it immediately to paper toweling. Do not cook too many pieces at once. When they start to curl, you don't want to be removing too many in a panic. Respect the hot oil by wearing long sleeves.

steaming vegetables

Steaming vegetables

The concept behind steaming vegetables is to have the hot steam cooking the vegetables while they sit up out of the water. It keeps vita­ mins, minerals and taste in the food. A collapsible steamer costs next to nothing. It should fit in one of your pots with a tight fitting lid. Put an inch of water in the bottom of the pot, then the three-legged steamer. Place the veggies in the basket and the lid on the pot. Boil the water rapidly. The steam will rise and cook the vegetables. Steam can burn your forearm incredibly fast, so wear a mitt when lifting the lid to check for doneness. After tasting these morsels, you will never boil vegeta­ bles again!

I also picked up this trick from a door-to-door pot salesman. Shuck and de-silk your corn-on-the-cob and put the shucks (discarding the silk) in the bottom of a soup pot. Fill the bottom of the pot with about 2 inches of water. Stack the corn Lincoln Log style on the shucks and replace the lid. Rapidly boil the water for 10-12 minutes. Sounds a little weird, but the corn tastes divine.

stir-fry

Stir-fry

This is initially one of the most intimidating things you might try, but once you have tried and seen success, you will find it quite easy. The concept is to get the oil very hot, add ingredients in descending order of cooking time, and keep them moving. In this way, they will keep as much surface as possible in contact with the heat and cook quickly. You can easily use a frying pan if you do not have a wok. Add the rec­ ommended amount of oil, using oils that can withstand high heat. Throw a drop of water in when you think it is hot enough. It will sizzle and skittle around. If you should accidentally wait too long and it starts to smoke, carefully discard it and start over. Add the ingredients in rec­

85 On the stove

ommended order and continue to paddle them about the skillet or wok in a random pattern. I use a wooden spatula/paddle. Do not add so many foods that they start stacking up. The first time I tried this tech­ nique, I was very nervous, so I used a deep soup pot to ensure that oil or food did not pop out the sides. This gave me the confidence to use a wok from then on. It's a healthy way to create scrumptious combina­ tions.

thickening sauces, gravies and soups

Thickening sauces, gravies and soups

A recipe will tell you which thickening agent to use. It might be a partic­ ular type flour or a cornstarch. Take 1/2 cup of the thing to be thick­ ened out of the pot or skillet. Put it into a large glass measuring cup with a spout. Whisk rapidly. Add a little less than the recommended amount of the thickening agent/liquid mixture to the soup or sauce and whisk rapidly. Check it to see if it is the consistency you would like. If it is not thick enough, add the remaining agent/liquid mixture and whisk again.

using a double boiler

Using a double boiler

The idea of a double boiler is to use steam as your cooking agent for puddings or other liquids prone to scorching. Fill the bottom pot with water to the point that the water level will be just under the bottom of the nesting pot. Put the ingredients into the nesting pot and put the pot into its larger brother. Place the lid on top and bring the water in the lower pot to a gentle boil. You don't want the water to boil away, so lis­ ten for it from time to time. Oftentimes the double boiler is a flameproof glass, so the lid can be very hot. Use a mitt.

using a spoon rest

Using a spoon rest

You will need a place to put the spoons and other utensils you are using in the soup pot or sauté pan after they have food on them. You want the bowl of the spoon to rest in a receptacle while the handle drops over the side. There needs to be sufficient space that you are

86 On the stove careful not to snag the spoon handle with your sleeve or accidentally knock it to the floor. I sometimes line the utensils up on a larger platter or elongated plate if I am going to have several burners going at once. At the least, I have multiple spoon rests to accommodate what I am doing.

87 In the oven

In the oven

For me, the oven is a scary place. I work a long time in preparation of the dish, and then tuck it away in a place I can neither get into nor con­ trol. Yikes! Once again, once you know your equipment and ingredi­ ents, it's easy. This section will help you develop the techniques that bring our symphony to a satisfying end.

basting meats

Basting meats

A poultry baster can be either a big help or a dangerous weapon, depending on how it is used. Drawing hot juices from a pan in the oven requires care. If you are using a throw-away aluminum pan, remember that they may become a little unstable. Put a cookie sheet underneath. Pull the bird or roast completely out of the oven to baste. You don't want to be handling hot greases with the chance it might all slide. Insert the baster tube well below the surface of the meat's juices. Suck desired amount with the bulb end. While still depressing the bulb end somewhat, tilt the tube end out of the juices. This keeps the hot oil and juices from popping out the end. Locate the top of the meat with the tip of the baster and squeeze the juices out of the tube. You can also use a large spoon, but you will lose a lot of control.

braising ingredients

Braising ingredients

This process can occur on the stove as well as in the oven. It is one of the wet heat processes as opposed to such dry heat processes as stir- frying. Since there is often oil or butter involved, you must be careful when basting. Generally, the meats or vegetables are covered and basted often. When basting, remember that oils can bubble up in the baster and pop out, so tilt the baster a little as you pull it out as men­ tioned in the section on basting procedures.

88 In the oven

broiling meats

Broiling meats

The meat will be only a few inches from the heating element, so remember that popping fats can start a fire. Leave the oven door ajar so that you can listen to the sizzle of the ingredients. Cook only the required time as set by the recipe. Wearing oven mitts to protect your forearms, remove broiling pan straight out from the oven. Do not tilt and spill greases. Have your destination in mind and be sure the path is clear.

calibrating the oven

Calibrating the oven

Since most recipes call for a very limited number of settings, you can predict that you will need only 325, 350, 375, 400, 425, 450 and 475 degrees. Marking 350, 400 and 450 degrees with heatproof enamel or nail polish is useful. Many more markings than that becomes confus­ ing. You can then use these benchmarks to hit other places in between. When applying the enamel, make sure the surface is scrupu­ lously clean. Apply the dots and let dry. Repeat with several coats. Some people prefer to mark the dial with Braille dots, to use Dymo tape or to use an adaptive dial card. If you own the stove, try scoring the three places with a knife. Its permanent and easy to clean.

covering fowl with a tent

Covering fowl with a tent

Larger birds that take a while to roast or bake should be covered with an aluminum foil tent to prevent the skin from browning too soon and drying out. Before putting the bird in the oven, loosely lay a piece of foil so that it covers the whole bird from stem to stern. It is okay if it is not completely covered from side to side. Then crease the foil slightly lengthwise and prop it up slightly so that it makes kind of a pup-tent over the bird. If it comes off while you are sliding the bird into the pre­ heated oven, try to slip it in with the bird inside. Remember not to keep that oven door open too long. You will lose all the heat. Remove the tent the last half-hour of cooking so the bird will brown nicely.

89 In the oven

positioning oven racks

Positioning oven racks for baking

You always want your baking foods in the center of the oven. Position your racks so that if you are baking cookies, the rack is in the middle. If you are roasting a turkey, the rack will be lower down so that the turkey is in the middle of the oven. Mess around with this while the oven is cool. You may even need to pull a rack out completely. Store it in an out-of-the-way place such as between the refrigerator and the cabinet. You can place the pans you will use in the cool oven to test out your theory.

Preparing the oven for baking

Always make sure there is nothing in the oven while it is cold. People have been known to put some pretty strange things in there, such as spun-sugar flowers from a wedding cake. (Who me?) Check the floor to make sure there is no leftover globs or drips from previous esca­ pades. Always check the size of pans for space needs. I always forget where to put the oven rack for the holiday turkey so I test the raw, unstuffed bird out in its pan before continuing. I am usually wrong and so glad I tried it out first. Whew!

removing baked goods from pan

Removing baked goods from pan

Let cake, bread or muffins rest for 5-10 minutes after removing from the oven. Hold the pan with a hot pad or oven mitt and slide a table knife blade around the edges to release any part that might be sticking. Have a place in mind to which you are transferring the item. Tilt the pan at a 90-degree angle with one mitted hand. The other hand should be placed over the item to catch it. If it is very hot, protect your hand with a mitt or pad. Allow the item to gently slide out of its pan onto your hand. Put pan aside and grab the plate or rack which is the final resting place of the item. Bring the plate up to the item and let it catch the item as you bring them both to rest on the counter. In the case of muffins, quickly flip the whole pan onto rack or plate. Using muffin cup liners will

90 In the oven

make this easier. There are also foil muffin cups available that will keep the muffins hot. Just don't put them in the microwave oven!

roasting chiles

Roasting chiles

These fresh little delicacies will make your recipes taste so much bet­ ter, that you will come to agree that it is worth the extra 10 minutes over canned chiles. A toaster oven is a little more manageable if you have one. Otherwise, put the oven rack so that the cookie sheet will be as close to the upper element as possible. Put the room temperature chiles on a cookie sheet about 3 inches apart. Broil until you hear the skins popping after about 5 minutes. They may smell a little burned, but that's fine. Pull out after no more than 7-10 minutes and put into a paper bag. Leave for 20 minutes...no peeking! When they have cooled, the skins will slip off easily. You can then slice them open and take the seeds and veins out. Depending on the picante quality (hot taste) of the chile, you might want to wear gloves. At any rate, you want to keep your fingers from your eyes. I have used chiles like chipotles, that were so hot it burned my lungs in preparation. The resulting flavor in the dish, however, was mild, smoky and flavorful.

setting the timer

Setting the timer

There are about as many types of timers as there are preferences, including those with raised numbers. I always keep two. Rarely are you timing only one thing. I prefer the dial type. It is easily twisted around to one hour or any portion of an hour. Since it is exactly like the face of a clock, few errors occur. The hard part is paying attention to the timer and doing something about it. Set the timer a little shy of what is needed, so you can check things. Then reset the timer for the required remaining minutes. Don't trust yourself to remember what you have going.

91 In the oven

spatula off the cookie sheet

Spatula off the cookie sheet

Grasp the lipped end of the cookie sheet with one mitted hand and the spatula with the other. Holding the unlipped end of the sheet over the platter, tilt the sheet slightly so the cookies can slide, but not so much that they will careen off the sheet. Working from the lowest end, slip cookies off one or two at a time. Work your way up the sheet toward your mitted hand. Hope that one falls to the floor so you will have to eat it. Do not layer the cookies unless they are completely cool.

testing for doneness

Testing for doneness

When trying a recipe for the first time, test breads, cakes, muffins, etc. 5 minutes before they should be ready. Stick a wooden toothpick straight down through the middle of the cake or bread. If it comes out clean, it is done. If it is damp or has batter sticking to it, return it to the oven. Remember that every time you open the oven door you lose 50 degrees of heat.

testing fowl for doneness

Testing fowl for doneness

If using a thermometer, insert it into the center of the inner thigh muscle so that it does not touch any bones. Roast the bird until the thermome­ ter reads an internal temperature of 180 to 185 degrees. The center of the stuffing should reach at least 165 degrees.

If not using a thermometer, allow 20 to 25 minutes per pound for birds up to 6 pounds. For a larger birds, allow 15 to 20 minutes per pound. For turkeys weighing over 16 pounds, allow 13 to 15 minutes per pound. In addition, increase roasting time by about 5 minutes per pound if the bird is stuffed. Other popular methods such as pricking the skin or wiggling the drumstick are just not as safe nor are they accu­ rate.

92 In the oven

toasting nuts

Toasting nuts

A toaster oven is a little more manageable if you have one. Otherwise, put the rack so that the cookie sheet will be as close to the upper ele­ ment as possible. There is a window of opportunity of about 15 sec­ onds between toasted and burned nuts. The first time you try it, you might want to try a few to get the idea of how long it takes to burn them. Spread them on a baking sheet or in a pan so that they are in a single layer, not touching each other. When they are mostly toasted, you will hear them sizzle, and a few will pop. Remove from the oven and stir them around a bit. Then return for a minute. When you hear them siz­ zle again, they are done.

93 To the table

To the table

The kitchen is the heart of the family and mealtimes, the heartbeat. It only takes a few seconds to make it special. This section will give you some ideas to that end.

Estimating amounts for the table

Recipes are very good about estimating how many people a dish will serve. If serving guests always make 2 extra servings, just in case. For things like appetizers, count on 4 per person if used as a starter and 20 per person if for a party and no meal will be served. Always count on hearty servings for soups and salads. Try to plan for leftovers as well for next-day lunches.

setting the table to set the stage

Setting the table to set the stage

You can make the humblest of fare seem special with a thoughtful table setting. If you think about it, that is the true beginning of the meal. People grab a buffet plate, sit at a place setting, or park in front of the tube with a tray. Each place can be equally pleasant. So that is where I begin my preparations...at what might seem like the end. I quickly walk through the meal in my mind and set the table or get out the nec­ essary service items as I go.

This step helps things run more smoothly and makes it more enjoyable for those eating. You will tend to get less rattled and feel less rushed if the service has already been considered. There is nothing more awk­ ward than searching for that platter on the top shelf while others are try­ ing to help and the burgers are ready to come off the grill. It also makes things look more effortless. Not to mention, it is much safer for you. Even if it's a few trays in front of a bowl game in the living room, if they are out and ready, you have less to worry about.

94 To the table

Touches of class

A few simple items can lend an elegant air to any meal. Try some of these ideas. None of them are costly, but the look is rich. It will send the thoughtful message that you care.

cloth napkins - Mix and match different patterns. Pull them through napkin rings like a rose, and you never have to iron them.

a small votive candle - Put it on a saucer to keep it from damaging the table.

plant life - If no fresh flowers are available from the garden, choose a sprig of leaves. I have even been known to have a basket of pine cones or rocks with grasses on the table.

centerpiece - This does not have to be extravagant. A wooden bowl of lemons, a basket of autumn leaves, a ceramic vessel of dyed eggs...something to reflect the season.

guest of honor - Recognize the birthday kid with a few scraps of con­ fetti at his or her plate. Celebrating a new romance or engagement? Put a Hershey's kiss at everyone's place.

sack lunch - Put a new pencil or a sticker in someone's lunch if he or she has done something special lately.

95 Out the door

Out the door

People love eating outside when the weather is good. Appetites are hearty; you can make a lot of noise; you can spill things. This section will give you some ideas to make that a success.

grilling

Grilling

This is not as intimidating and difficult as you might think. However, I would suggest a little experience when someone is around to help. Gas grills really are the best, and they don't have to be expensive. They are just like any stove you are getting used to. Once you have tried it a few times, you know exactly at which setting and for how long to cook. When you are finished, you turn it off with no worries about further fire. With a gas grill you would be much more likely to fire up for a few shrimp or some vegetable kebabs than you would be with the long process of waiting for charcoal.

Having said all that, I will now confess that I still call charcoal "real grill­ ing". And it does take more experience. Pile up the coals in a pyramid and soak with lighter fluid. Wait 1 minute. Light with a butane Fire­ place lighter or with long fireplace matches. Put grill on to burn off old food and dust. Wait 30 minutes for coals to form an ash. Scrub grill with a wire brush. Touch metal spatula to the grill to give yourself an idea of where it is. Then hold your hand 6 inches above it. It should feel pretty hot. Place meats on grill. Cook and turn normally. Use long handled instruments and mitts. If anything falls through the grill, either let it burn or dismantle the cooking surface to fish it out. Don't go coal- diving for the sake of a burger.

picnics, patio parties and barbecues

Picnics, patio parties and barbecues

A lot of foods just taste better outside. Remember the following: • Have plenty of chairs or blankets for people to sit on. • Plan on a little extra food in case the dogs get away with a weenie or in case appetites are heartier due to the outdoors.

96 Out the door

• Hot food gets cold faster. • Cold food gets hot faster. • Have some snacks handy to keep appetites at bay. • Bring double napkins and more drinks than usual. • Secure things in case of wind. • Don't forget that the setting is important, just as it is indoors. • Give children responsibilities you might not give otherwise. They learn to take part in activities where spills aren't as serious. • Have some games available. • Plan on bad weather and then assume it will be good. • Have fun and prepare to share recipes. This seems to happen more at outdoor gatherings.

97 98 Appetizers

Hor d’oeuvres, starters, tapas, dips and munchies

Contents Bacon Nuts ...... 101 Cheese Niblets ...... 102 Cheesy Meatballs ...... 103 Cherry Tomatoes Stuffed With Tuna ...... 104 Chicago-style Shrimp ...... 105 Guacamole ...... 106 Marinated Broccoli and Curry Dip ...... 107 Nutsy Bobo ...... 108 Olives in Cheese Puff Paste ...... 109 Prairie Fire ...... 110 Quick Fixes for Drop-in Guests . . . . . 111 Smoked Ham With Walnut and Orange ...... 112 Spinach Dip in Shepherd's Loaf . . . . . 113 Stuff ...... 114 Stuffed Mushroom Caps ...... 115

99 Appetizers

100 Appetizers

Rich and just a snitch spicy, these little nibbles disappear in seconds at the party table.

Bacon Nuts

Refer to: 2 8-ounce cans sliced water 1/8 teaspoon Tabasco sauce opening cans, 59 chestnuts, drained 1 teaspoon salt draining ingredients, 50 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 pound sliced bacon, each measuring liquid 1 teaspoon lemon juice strip cut into thirds ingredients, 29 juicing citrus fruits, 54 Mix all the ingredients, except for bacon. Place in a self-sealing bag and refrigerate at least one hour. Wrap water chestnuts in bacon, measuring dry secure with a wooden toothpick and broil to taste, turning once with a ingredients, 28 fork. setting the timer, 91 Makes 4 dozen calibrating the oven, 89 broiling meats, 89 spatula off the cookie sheet, 92 Wooden toothpicks without decorative fringe are absolutely necessary here. The point of doneness is a little tricky with this one. You want the fat cooked out of the bacon, but not to the burning stage. I usually try one as a test and time it. That becomes my target cooking time and works quite well.

101 Appetizers

Lightly toasted and nutty with lots of room for choices.

Cheese Niblets

Refer to: measuring dry 1 5-ounce jar processed 1/2 cup nuts of your choice ingredients, 28 cheese spread, any flavor Dash each: cayenne pepper, combining ingredients, 46 1 stick margarine garlic salt, onion salt 1 1/4 cup flour setting the timer, 91 calibrating the oven, 89 Place cheese spread and margarine in a bowl and allow to soften for spatula off the cookie an hour. Blend together well with hands. Knead flour into mixture with sheet, 92 hands in small amounts. Add nuts, red pepper, garlic salt and onion salt and continue to knead gently. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Pinch off pieces of dough and roll into balls the size of walnuts. Place 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 15 to 18 minutes. Serve warm. Makes 2-3 dozen

Try different combinations of cheeses and nuts. For example, Old English cheese and pecans or bleu cheese and walnuts. You can prepare the dough the day before you need it and roll into balls the following day.

102 Appetizers

Keep the unbaked balls in your freezer during holiday seasons or other times you are likely to have drop-in guests. They will be pleasantly surprised at how quickly you have a tasty snack ready.

Cheesy Meatballs

Refer to: 2 5-ounce jars Old English 1 pound bulk sausage, any measuring dry processed cheese spread seasoned flavor ingredients, 28 2 cups biscuit mix combining ingredients, 46 setting the timer, 91 Combine all ingredients in a bowl with your hands. Cover and refrigerate one hour. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Pinch off bits of calibrating the oven, 89 dough and roll into balls the size of large marbles. Place on an spatula off the cookie ungreased cookie sheet 2 inches apart. Bake 18 to 20 minutes, Serve sheet, 92 warm—either plain or with East Texas Barbecue Sauce (page 222) for dipping. Makes 4 dozen

The raw dough refrigerates up to 3 days and freezes up to 2 months. Try sausages seasoned in different ways for different flavors.

103 Appetizers

A surprising twist to a dish usually served chilled, these warm tomatoes get a meal off to a great start. Using larger tomatoes than suggested here allows you to serve them as a light main course.

Cherry Tomatoes Stuffed With Tuna

Refer to: 24 medium ripe but firm cherry dash of nutmeg washing produce, 41 tomatoes 1 teaspoon Worcestershire measuring butter/ 4 tablespoons butter sauce margarine, 28 1 tablespoon minced onion 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard peeling an onion, 31 3 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon grated Parmesan mincing vegetables, 58 1 cup milk cheese measuring dry salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 teaspoon crushed red ingredients, 28 2 tablespoons dry red wine or pepper measuring liquid sherry 3 tablespoons mayonnaise ingredients, 29 7-ounce can light tuna, drained Parmesan cheese and minced salt and pepper to taste, 63 1 tablespoon minced parsley parsley for garnish grinding pepper, 54 Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice off the tops of the tomatoes opening cans, 59, and loosen the pulp and seeds with the tines of a fork. Scoop out with draining ingredients, 50 a small spoon. Sprinkle the tomatoes inside with salt and turn upside calibrating the oven, 89 down to drain on a paper towel for about 10 minutes. Heat 1 sautéing vegetables, 83 tablespoon of the butter in a small saucepan and sauté the onion until it is tender. In the meantime make a white sauce by melting the using the microwave remaining 3 tablespoons of the butter in the microwave for 1 minute. oven, 72 Whisk in the flour, and cook for another minute. Stir once and add the whisking ingredients, 74 milk gradually. Cook another minute or until thickened and smooth. combining ingredients, 46 Season with salt and pepper and stir in the sherry. Break up the tuna setting the timer, 91 with a fork in a medium bowl, then stir in the white sauce, parsley, nutmeg, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, grated cheese, chili pepper, warming plates, 73 salt and pepper. spatula off the cookie Using your hands, fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Coat the top with sheet, 92 a dome of mayonnaise. Sprinkle with cheese and parsley. Bake until the tops are brown but the tomatoes still fairly firm, about 10 minutes. Remove to a warm plate and serve immediately. Serves 8 Even though these delicacies should be served at once, they make nice cold leftovers in the next day's sack lunch.

104 Appetizers

When I serve these as a tapa or starter to a meal, I pass small towels dipped in lemon water and warmed in the microwave for a minute. It will cut the garlic from the hands to not interfere with the next course. If I serve them at a party or barbecue, it's a free-for-all. (dds)

Chicago-style Shrimp Refer to: Garlic Crumb Topping 3-5 cloves garlic, minced measuring butter/ margarine, 28 1/2 cup (1/4 pound) butter or a 3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs, combination of butter and ground fine measuring dry margarine 3 tablespoons minced fresh ingredients, 28 1/4 teaspoon salt parsley peeling garlic, 32 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 4 tablespoons dry sherry mincing vegetables, 58 1/4 teaspoon paprika making bread crumbs, 56 measuring liquid Shellfish ingredients, 29 4 large lemons or limes, sliced 3 pounds large or jumbo slicing vegetables, 66 shrimp, peeled and deveined thin peeling and deveining shrimp, 30 Make the topping: Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat. melting butter, 82 Mix in salt, cayenne, paprika, and garlic. Toss with bread crumbs, combining ingredients, 46 parsley, and sherry. Cook only until ingredients are combined; tossing ingredients, 67 reserve. grilling, 96 Grill the shrimp: Use a prepared grill basket or grill screen or soaked and drained skewers. Arrange the lime slices on one side of the warming plates, 73 basket. Place shrimp over lime and secure the basket shut. If using a grill screen, arrange shrimp randomly with lime slices over screen, turning occasionally as you grill. Or thread lemon or lime slices with shrimp on skewers, turning as you grill. Cook only until the shrimp are done, approximately 4 minutes; do not overcook as shrimp tend to get tough. To serve, place the shrimp on a heated serving dish and top with the garlic crumb mixture; serve immediately. Serves 16 as a tapa or 8 as a main course

Serving suggestions: rolls, romaine lettuce with French dressing, fresh pineapple chunks.

Reprinted from FISH ON THE GRILL by Phyllis Magida and Barbara Grunes, ©1986. Used with permission of Contemporary Books, Inc., Chicago.

105 Appetizers

Guacamole comes from a combination of two Nahuatl words: ahuacatl (avocado) and molli (a ground mixture). In Mexico the food is often served as a starter to a meal with warm tortillas, not as a dip. You will also see dollops of it adding a savory to chicken tacos or in place of sour cream in other dishes.

Guacamole Refer to: peeling an onion, 31 1/4 medium onion, finely 2 very ripe, medium dicing vegetables, 49 diced avocados, peeled and coring and seeding 1 large fresh chile serrano, seeded peppers, 25 finely diced 1 very ripe, large tomato, washing produce, 41 2 sprigs fresh cilantro peeled, seeded and measuring dry (coriander) chopped ingredients, 28 salt to taste 1/4 small onion, finely salt and pepper to taste, 63 chopped preparing avocados, 33 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 sprigs fresh cilantro, peeling tomatoes, 33 finely chopped chopping vegetables, 45 juicing citrus fruits, 54 Grind the onion, chiles, cilantro, and salt together to a smooth paste using a mortar, 70 with a mortar and pestle or with a mini food processor. Mash the avocado flesh roughly with the chili paste . Be careful not to bruise the combining ingredients, 46 ripe meat of the fruit. Add the chopped tomato, the chopped onion. lime juice and cilantro to the guacamole. Mix well with fork and serve immediately. If you find that the serving will be delayed as much as 20 minutes, sprinkle lightly with more lime juice to keep it from darkening. Makes 2 cups

Tomatoes ripen well in a dark shoe box with pieces of apple. Avocados do well in a window sill. This dish does not freeze or even refrigerate well. It is for the moment.

106 Appetizers

The vinegars and spices blend into a superb combination. The bright green of the broccoli looks stunning against the stark white of the dip on a silver platter.

Marinated Broccoli and Curry Dip Refer to: Broccoli: washing produce, 41 1 large bunch fresh broccoli 1/3 cup oil preparing broccoli and 1/4 cup cider or wine vinegar 3 cloves garlic, split in half cauliflower, 34 1 teaspoon dill weed measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Cut broccoli into tiny bite-size florets. Rinse and set aside in a peeling garlic, 32 colander to drain. Combine vinegar, oil, garlic and dill weed in a self- measuring dry sealing bag. Drop broccoli into bag, seal and refrigerate overnight. ingredients, 28 Drain broccoli and serve with curry dip. draining ingredients, 50 combining ingredients, 46 Curry Dip: peeling an onion, 31 3/4 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon curry powder mincing vegetables, 58 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

Combine all ingredients, cover and refrigerate overnight. Stir before serving.

I include the dip here because it seems to blend very well with the marinade flavors and does not stand very well on its own.

107 Appetizers

A real party treat...but don’t forget a batch for yourself!

Nutsy Bobo Refer to: measuring dry ingredients, 28 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg measuring liquid 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 2 tablespoons walnut oil ingredients, 29 1/2 teaspoon curry powder 2 cups shelled whole almonds, calibrating the oven, 89 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt pecan halves or cashews (or combining ingredients, 46 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper a combination) using the microwave 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1 tablespoon salt oven, 72 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon pinch of garlic salt (optional) tossing ingredients, 67 Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Mix the spices in a microwave-safe setting the timer, 91 bowl. Add the oil, stir and microwave on half power for a minute. Stir spatula off the cookie and cook another 2 minutes at half power. Remove and let rest 5 sheet, 92 minutes. Place the nuts in a medium mixing bowl, add the spice/oil mixture and toss well. Spread the nuts in a single layer on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice with a fork. Scrape the nuts and any stray spices into the medium bowl and toss gently once more. Sprinkle with the salt, and a bit more garlic salt, if desired. Let rest for 2 hours in a cool place. Store in airtight jars. If you would like warm nuts, microwave for a minute on full power. Makes 2 cups

Be sure the nuts have plenty of room on the baking sheet. You can make multiple recipes, but they really work best when prepared one batch at a time.

108 Appetizers

The friendly warm puff has a tangy surprise filling. A warmed platter of these nuggets goes great with a football game or conversation and drinks.

Olives in Cheese Puff Paste Refer to: measuring butter/ 1 stick margarine 1 cup flour margarine, 28 1 5-ounce jar processed 1 8-ounce jar stuffed green cheese spread olives, drained measuring dry ingredients, 28 Place margarine, cheese, and flour into medium mixing bowl. Let draining ingredients, 50 stand one hour until margarine is soft. While margarine is softening, calibrating the oven, 89 pour the juice from the jar of olives into a glass and set aside. Pour combining ingredients, 46 olives into a bowl lined with several paper towels. Allow to drain for 30 minutes. Gently blot with a paper towel and allow to continue drying setting the timer, 91 until margarine is soft. Blend cheese mixture well by hand. Squeeze testing for doneness, 92 through fingers, mixing all ingredients into a dough. Let stand covered spatula off the cookie in refrigerator for two hours. sheet, 92 Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease palm of one hand. Pat a walnut-sized ball of dough in palm until 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Place drained olive in center and roll dough around it. The cheese dough should cover the olive evenly. Place rolled balls two inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes until golden brown. Slide with spatula onto warm plate. Makes 3-4 dozen

Different flavors of cheese spread may be used. You can prepare these appetizers the day before serving. However, the dough does not freeze well.

109 Appetizers

The potential for palate-destroying spiciness is counteracted by the cheese and other vegetables. A long-ago version of this dip for me entailed dragging out the pressure cooker and dipping into the sack of dried pinto beans. Today I make good use of leftovers from the bean pot or find some refried beans on the shelf.

Prairie Fire

Refer to: measuring butter/ 1/2 stick butter 2 cloves garlic, minced margarine, 28 1 large onion, chopped 2 16-ounce cans refried beans peeling an onion, 31 1 4-ounce can chopped green 8 ounces Provolone cheese, chopping vegetables, 45 chiles grated opening cans, 59 5 jalapeños, chopped (reserve salt to taste liquid) peeling garlic, 32 mincing vegetables, 58 Melt butter in large pan. Add onions, both peppers and garlic; sauté grating cheese, 52 until onions are soft. Add beans and mash everything together in the salt and pepper to taste, 63 pot. Cook over very low heat mashing and stirring until desired consistency is reached. Add cheese and stir over very low heat until melting butter, 82 cheese is melted. Taste for seasonings, adding reserved 1 sautéing vegetables, 83 tablespoon jalapeño juice if needed. Serve in a chafing dish with using a chafing dish, 68 tortilla chips. Serves 8-10

Prairie fire can be frozen or stored in the refrigerator. Flavors are enhanced if made the day before serving. If your taste runs toward the milder, add a 16-ounce can of chopped tomatoes.

110 Appetizers

Being prepared is a controlled comfort. But we don't always know what will happen. Don't let the drop-in folks rattle you. Take a small breath and think of what you have on hand. As an exercise, I thought only of the things I actually have in the pantry and fridge at this very moment. Here are the ideas I came up with for the unexpected callers. In fact, I think I hear them now.

Quick Fixes for Drop-in Guests Refer to: • A party mix of pretzels sticks, peanuts, raisins, and a few scattered peeling and coring an M&Ms. apple, 30 • Paté spread on apple slices. combining ingredients, 46 • A block of cream cheese topped with salsa to spread on crackers. preparing cucumbers, 34 For a sweeter taste, covered with blackberry jam instead. opening cans, 59 peeling carrots and • A bowl of Gorgonzola cheese creamed with brandy to spread on potatoes, 31 slices of toasted French bread. • Cucumber slices topped with a spread of equal parts cream cheese and salad dressing of any kind. • A bowl of mixed olives: black Greek, green stuffed and purple olives. • A glass with carrot sticks. In the bottom of the glass, an inch or so of creamy Italian dressing. • A cube of pesto from the freezer spread on slices of crusty bread and toasted. • Popcorn made with a dash of Italian seasoning in the oil and dusted with Parmesan cheese.

111 Appetizers

A tasty way to spiff up leftover ham. It works well as a starter for a special meal. It also nestles in with other tapas for a late spring patio gathering.

Smoked Ham With Walnut and Orange Refer to: slicing meats, 65 8 quarter-inch slices cured ham 1/4 cup broken walnut meats measuring liquid at room temperature 3 tablespoons fresh orange ingredients, 29 3/4 cup English orange juice measuring dry marmalade 1 tablespoon water ingredients, 28 1 tablespoon dark raisins juicing citrus fruits, 54 2 dried apricots, snipped in simmering ingredients, 84 pieces setting the timer, 91 Combine 4 tablespoons of the marmalade in a small saucepan with the raisins and apricots. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and cook 5 minutes more. Set aside to cool for 20 minutes. Add the remaining marmalade, the walnuts, orange juice, and water. Allow to cool completely. Serve on top of the ham slices or spread the ham slices with the sauce and roll the ham into a tube. Serves 8

The sauce keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator.

112 Appetizers

Bright green and clever.

Spinach Dip in Shepherd's Loaf Refer to: 1 cup sour cream 1/4 cup green onion, chopped measuring liquid 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 8-ounce can water chestnuts ingredients, 29 1/2 package Knorr's dry leek 1/2 teaspoon dried dill draining frozen spinach, 27 soup 1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt washing produce, 41 1/2 10-ounce package frozen 1 round loaf shepherd's bread peeling a green onion, 30 spinach, thawed and drained chopping vegetables, 45 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped opening cans, 59 Combine all ingredients except the bread and blend well. Refrigerate measuring dry overnight to meld flavors. Place loaf of bread on a platter and pull bite- ingredients, 28 size pieces out of middle. Stack these pieces around the bread to the combining ingredients, 46 rim of the platter. Continue pulling pieces until you have only a shell of the original loaf left. Pour the dip into the shell and serve chilled. Serves 10-12

Have some extra crackers or bread squares available. Nobody will want to leave a single bit of dip behind.

113 Appetizers

When I asked my dear friend K Davis for this recipe, I referred to it as "that stuff you made for the barbecue.” The name stuck.

Stuff

Refer to: peeling tomatoes, 33 4 tomatoes, peeled and 2 4-ounce cans diced green peeling a green onion, 30 chopped chilies 1 bunch green onions, chopped 1 teaspoon salt chopping vegetables, 45 bottom and tops 1 teaspoon garlic powder opening cans, 59 2 4-ounce cans sliced ripe 2 tablespoons olive oil measuring dry olives 2 tablespoons vinegar ingredients, 28 measuring liquid Mix and cover. Refrigerate 4 to 24 hours (gets better by the hour). ingredients, 29 Serve with tortilla chips. combining ingredients, 46 Makes about a quart

Canned tomatoes do not substitute well in this recipe. It will keep for several days in the refrigerator, but you probably won't have leftovers.

114 Appetizers

Hefty enough to serve as starters before soup or salad; perfect as finger food.

Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Refer to: 8 very large appetizer 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, preparing mushrooms, 37 mushrooms minced measuring butter/ 2 tablespoons butter or 1 cup bread crumbs margarine, 28 margarine salt and pepper to taste peeling an onion, 31 1/4 yellow onion, minced Parmesan cheese mincing vegetables, 58 2 cloves garlic, minced peeling garlic, 32 Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Clean mushrooms, cut off stems down washing produce, 41 to the cap and save the stems. Mince the stems and set aside. Melt measuring dry the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sauté onion, garlic, ingredients, 28 salt, pepper, and mushroom stems until stems are soft, about 5 making bread crumbs, 56 minutes. Place bread crumbs in a bowl and pour hot vegetables on top. Toss ingredients. Cool enough to handle. Fill caps with bread salt and pepper to taste, 63 crumb/vegetable mixture. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake 15­ sautéing vegetables, 83 20 minutes. Remove to warm plate. combining ingredients, 46 Makes 8 hors d'oeuvres tossing ingredients, 67 calibrating the oven, 89 setting the timer, 91 Some people prefer their mushrooms a little more done and like to warming plates, 73 microwave them for one minute before stuffing them. An elegant spatula off the cookie variation is to place one cooked shrimp in the middle of each sheet, 92 mushroom before adding the other ingredients.

115 116 Soups

Hearty bowls, stocks, stews, chowders and chilis

Contents All-day Beef Stew ...... 119 Black Bean Chili ...... 120 Chicken Stock ...... 122 Clam Chowder ...... 124 Cold Cucumber Soup with Garlic and Dill ...... 125 Destarte Chili ...... 126 Gazpacho ...... 127 Grillades ...... 128 Mushroom, Leek and Potato Soup ...... 129 Nine-bean Soup ...... 130 Pozole Presidio Style ...... 131 Split Pea Soup ...... 132 Zucchini Soup ...... 133

117 Soups

118 Soups

Wow! How pleasant it is to come home to the wafting, flavorful aromas of a soup...waiting just for you.

All-day Beef Stew

Refer to: 1 pound beef stew meat, cubed 2 bay leaves 2 medium skins-on potatoes, 1/2 teaspoon sage cubing meat, 26 quartered and cubed salt and pepper to taste washing produce, 41 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced water or broth quartering potatoes, 62 1/2 pound fresh green beans 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour peeling carrots and 1 large yellow onion, quartered potatoes, 31 and sliced slicing vegetables, 66 preparing green Layer all ingredients except the flour in a crock pot and add enough beans, 36 water or broth to rise 2 inches above ingredients. Turn on medium-low before you leave the house. It will be just about ready for supper when peeling an onion, 31 you return 6-8 hours later. Extract 1 cup of the broth into a bowl and measuring dry whisk in the flour. Return to the crock, stir and let cook another 30-50 ingredients, 28 minutes. Stir again before serving. salt and pepper to Serves 6 taste, 63 measuring liquid ingredients, 29 using a crock pot, 68 This is an "idea recipe." Once you get the idea, you can substitute all whisking kinds of favorite things. Try chicken with thyme, pork with rosemary or ingredients, 74 just plain vegetables.

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Black Bean Chili has been served every day since Greens opened in 1979. It has a woodsy campfire quality and a complexity of tastes from the various smoked and roasted chiles. In addition to serving these beans as chili, we also use them as an ingredient in the Black Bean Chilaquiles (page 194).

Black Bean Chili Refer to: sorting and soaking 2 cups black turtle beans, soaked 3 medium yellow onions, diced beans, 40 overnight into 1/4-inch squares measuring dry 1 bay leaf 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped ingredients, 28 4 teaspoons cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon salt roasting chiles, 91 4 teaspoons dried oregano 1 1/2 pounds ripe or canned measuring liquid leaves tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and ingredients, 29 4 teaspoons paprika chopped; juice reserved peeling an onion, 31 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 to 2 teaspoons chopped dicing vegetables, 49 1 chile negro or ancho chile, for chilpotle chile peeling garlic, 32 chili powder, or 2 to 3 about 1 tablespoon rice wine chopping tablespoons chili powder vinegar vegetables, 45 3 tablespoons corn or peanut oil 4 tablespoons cilantro, chopped peeling tomatoes, 33 Garnishes: using a mortar, 70 calibrating the oven, 89 1/2 to 3/4 cup muenster cheese, 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour setting the timer, 91 grated cream sautéing vegetables, 83 green chiles: 2 poblano or 6 sprigs cilantro simmering Anaheim, roasted, peeled, and ingredients, 84 diced, or 2 ounces canned adding water to green chiles, rinsed well and soups, 75 diced finding the spoon in the pot, 80 Sort through the beans and remove any small stones. Rinse them well, cover them generously with water, and let them soak overnight. Next day, drain the beans, cover them with fresh water by a couple of inches, and bring them to a boil with the bay leaf. Lower the heat and let the beans simmer while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Heat a small heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds, and when they begin to color, add the oregano leaves, shaking the pan frequently so the herbs don’t scorch. As soon as the fragrance is strong and robust, remove the pan from the heat and add the paprika and the cayenne. They only need a few seconds to toast. Grind in a mortar or a spice mill to make a coarse powder. Preheat the oven to

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375 degrees. To make the chili powder, put the dried chile in the oven for 3 to 5 minutes to dry it out. Cool it briefly; then remove the stem, seeds and veins. Tear the pod into small pieces and grind it into a powder in the blender or spice mill. Heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions over medium heat until they soften. Add the garlic, salt, and the ground herbs and chili powder and cook another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, their juice and about 1 teaspoon of the chilpotle chile. Simmer everything together for 15 minutes; then add this mixture to the beans and, if necessary, enough water so the beans are covered by a least 1 inch. Continue cooking the beans slowly until they are soft, an hour or longer, or pressure cook them for 30 minutes at 15 pounds pressure. Keep an eye on the water level and add more, if needed, to keep the beans amply covered. When the beans are cooked, taste them, and add more chilpotle chile if desired. Season to taste with the vinegar, additional salt if needed, and the chopped cilantro. Prepare the garnishes. If you are using fresh green chiles, roast them over the flame until they are evenly charred. Let them steam 10 minutes in a bowl covered with a dish; then scrape off the skins, discard the seeds, and dice. Serve the chili ladled over a large spoonful of grated cheese, and garnish it with the crème fraîche or sour cream, the green chiles, and a sprig of fresh cilantro. Makes 8 cups

Though served in a bowl and eaten with a spoon, this chili is a great deal thicker than most soups—thick enough in fact to be served on a plate right alongside fritters or cornbread. It also, however, can be thinned considerably with stock, water or tomato juice, to make a much thinner but still very flavorful black bean soup. When thinned to make soup, it can be served as part of a meal rather than a meal in itself. It is worth making double the amount and freezing half to have it available to use in other recipes.

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

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To make a wholesome chicken stock, long cooking is a fundamental requirement. For this reason, we prepare stock in large quantities when time is available. This recipe is for the minimum amount we would make. For the chicken parts, we usually use raw scrap pieces we have kept frozen over several months and, if we do not have enough, chicken backs are inexpensive to purchase. You may use the gizzards and hearts, but not the livers, as they will give an “off” taste.

Chicken Stock

Refer to: making a soup stock, 82 3 pounds raw chicken parts such 1 teaspoon wild thyme measuring liquid as backs, necks and gizzards 1/2 teaspoon whole black ingredients, 29 4 quarts cold water peppercorns 3/4 pound carrots 3 or 4 large sprigs parsley with peeling carrots and potatoes, 31 1/2 pound leeks or 1/2 pound their stems onions 1 teaspoon salt preparing leeks, 36 3 large celery stalks 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled peeling celery, 31 1 large imported bay leaf 1/2 cup dry white wine or slicing vegetables, 66 vermouth measuring dry ingredients, 28 In a large pot with a 1-gallon capacity, place the chicken parts. Cover washing produce, 41 with the cold water and bring just to a simmer. Only partially cover, so that the scum and fats will rise to the surface. Do not allow the stock adding water to to boil at any time and never stir during the entire cooking time. Boiling soups, 75 or stirring will cause the fats to break down, resulting in a cloudy stock. setting the timer, 91 Using cold water to begin the stock also works as an aid against skimming clouding. When the water comes to a simmer, begin skimming all the ingredients, 84 unpleasant-looking scum from the surface. This will take about 15 straining minutes. As you remove the scum, replace it with the same amount of ingredients, 67 cold water. Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables and aromatics. With a vegetable peeler, scrape the carrots and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and wash thoroughly. Cut them into 1-inch pieces. If using onions, peel and quarter them. Wash the celery stalks and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Tie the bay leaf, wild thyme, peppercorns, and parsley in a small piece of cheesecloth. When the simmering liquid has been completely cleansed of scum, add the vegetables, the aromatics tied in cheesecloth, the salt, the unpeeled garlic and the wine. Be cautious about the amount of salt. Since the stock reduces while cooking, it could become too salty. Again, do not stir, but press the solids down into the simmering liquid. Watch the heat and bring the ingredients back to a simmer. Partially cover and simmer for 4 hours. Extend the cooking time if you are making a larger amount.

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During this time, periodically check the stock and skim any scum from the surface. Press down on the solids from time to time to release their flavors. When the stock has cooked for 4 hours, strain it through a colander lined with cheesecloth into a large bowl. Press down on the solids so they will give up their liquids. Cool as quickly as possible and either refrigerate or freeze. The stock will keep for 3 or 4 days refrigerated and for 3 or 4 months frozen. If freezing, leave 1 1/2-inch headspace in the container for expansion. Do not throw away the vegetables or the meat from the chicken. If you do not wish to eat them, carefully go over them, removing all bones, and give the vegetables and meat to a favorite dog or cat, mixed with their regular food. The leftovers are a treat. Makes 3 1/2 quarts

When making our stock, we use the Graniteware Blancher, sometimes called the Everything Pot, as it is handy for straining the stock. Just remove the fitted colander from the pot and set it over a large bowl to drain. All the solids remain in the colander. For a clearer stock, you may wish to strain the liquid through cheesecloth later.

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Chowders knock the chill off an October's evening. This one is easy to prepare.

Clam Chowder Refer to: opening cans, 59 2 7-ounce cans minced clams 2 tablespoons butter dicing vegetables, 49 3 or 4 medium potatoes, cubed salt and pepper to taste peeling an onion, 31 with peelings on 2 cups of rich milk or half-and-half chopping 1 large yellow onion, chopped vegetables, 45 2 slices salt pork or bacon, measuring butter/ chopped fine and lightly margarine, 28 browned salt and pepper to taste, 63 Cook potatoes, onion and salt pork (or bacon) in enough water to cover. When potatoes are tender to a fork, drain clams and add clam measuring liquid liquor to the potato mixture. Simmer for a few minutes longer. Then ingredients, 29 add clams, milk (or half-and-half) and seasonings. Taste before simmering adding salt. Simmer until desired thickness is reached, but do not let ingredients, 84 the chowder come to a boil. Add butter just before serving. draining ingredients, 50 Serves 4-6 finding the spoon in the pot, 80

If your tastes or doctor's orders run to less fat, use lowfat milk and omit the butter. Use pork with fat trimmed.

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For summer, this cold soup is incomparable. Even though this recipe has been a staple in our summer cooking for many years, it never fails to invigorate us.

Cold Cucumber Soup with Garlic and Dill

8 unwaxed, pickling type 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 122), Refer to: cucumbers, about 3 1/2 inches chilled washing produce, 41 long 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground dicing vegetables, 49 1/2 teaspoon salt white pepper measuring dry 2 cups homemade yogurt 4 tablespoons cucumber dice ingredients, 28 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic reserved for garnish measuring liquid 2 tablespoons minced dill, ingredients, 29 coriander, or chives for garnish peeling garlic, 32 Wash the cucumbers. Remove the ends, but do not peel them. mincing vegetables, 58 Quarter the cucumbers lengthwise and remove the seeds if they are tossing ingredients, 67 large; if the seeds are very tiny, there is no need to remove them. whisking Chop the strips of cucumber into dice no larger than 1/4 inch. Place ingredients, 74 the dice in a colander or sieve, sprinkle with the salt, and toss. Let the folding ingredients, 52 cucumbers drain for 1/2 hour, tossing occasionally. This will draw excess moisture and any bitterness from the cucumbers. Combine the yogurt, garlic and chicken stock in a medium-sized bowl. Whisk so that the yogurt and stock are thoroughly blended. When the cucumbers have drained, squeeze them gently between paper towels to dry. Fold them, along with the white pepper, into the liquid mixture, reserving 4 tablespoons for garnishing the soup. Cover the soup and the reserved dice, separately, with plastic wrap and chill for several hours or overnight before serving. You may serve the soup from a tureen, in individual soup plates, or for an elegant touch, in stemmed wine glasses. Garnish the servings with the reserved cucumber dice and the minced herb of your choice. Dill, coriander, or chives will each give the soup a different character. Serves 4 Under refrigeration the soup keeps well for about a week, so we try to keep some on hand during hot weather.

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved. 125 Soups

A bowl of red-eye and a hunk of cornbread...a cowpoke's dream. This particular recipe never won at the International Chili Cook-off in Terlingua, but it has my vote as K Cowboy's best effort yet.

Destarte Chili Refer to: opening cans, 59 2 pounds beef, 1/2 ground, 1/2 1 tablespoon ground comino peeling an onion, 31 cubed (cumin) mincing vegetables, 58 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 tablespoon ground oregano measuring dry 2 cans water 1 teaspoon red cayenne pepper ingredients, 28 1 1/2 tablespoons onion, minced 1 teaspoon paprika browning meat, 76 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon salt simmering 7 tablespoons ground chili 1 tablespoon masa, optional ingredients, 84 powder (chile ancho molido, if finding the spoon in the available) pot, 80 Brown meat until just barely cooked. Add remaining ingredients and simmer at least two hours. Add masa to thicken, if necessary. Serves 6

Try substituting pork for one-half the meat. Also good for venison, other game meats, or even rattlesnake.

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There are as many variations of this recipe as there are cooks who have tried to make it. I particularly enjoy this one. (dds)

Gazpacho

Refer to: 4 cups tomato juice 2 tablespoons wine vinegar measuring liquid 1/2 cup finely minced onion 1 teaspoon each: tarragon, basil ingredients, 29 1 medium clove garlic, minced 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cumin peeling an onion, 31 1 medium bell pepper, minced 1/4 cup freshly minced parsley peeling garlic, 32 1 teaspoon honey (optional) 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil mincing vegetables, 58 1 medium cucumber, peeled, salt, black pepper, and seeded, minced cayenne—to taste washing produce, 41 2 scallions, minced 2 cups freshly diced tomatoes coring and seeding juice of 1/2 lemon and 1 lime peppers, 25 preparing Combine all ingredients. (Optional: purée all or some.) Chill until very cucumbers, 34 cold. measuring dry Serves 4-6 ingredients, 28 peeling tomatoes, 33

The absolute key is a sharp knife and patience. You will want the smallest pieces of vegetable that you can get without crushing them. Don't give up and stick it all in the blender. Try serving this for your patio party in the dusk of a hot summer's day. Put it in chilled mugs with the tiniest dollop of sour cream and the tiniest sprig of fresh cilantro. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

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This very thick, rich stew is a breakfast and brunch favorite in New Orleans. I make it with beef, rather than the more traditional veal, because beef is more readily available. After trimming, you should have a little more than three pounds of meat.

Grillades

Refer to: (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast) slicing meats, 65 trimming meat, 41 4 pounds lean, boneless beef 1 cup sliced scallions measuring dry chuck roast or steak cut about 4 teaspoons minced fresh garlic ingredients, 28 1-inch thick; or boneless veal (about 6 cloves) grinding pepper, 54 stew meat 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 28-ounce can tomatoes, measuring liquid 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground crushed lightly with hands ingredients, 29 pepper 1 13- to 14-ounce can beef broth peeling an onion, 31 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup dry red wine chopping 3/4 cup vegetable oil 3 tablespoons tomato paste vegetables, 45 1 cup chopped onion 2 Turkish bay leaves peeling celery, 31 1 cup diced celery dicing vegetables, 49 1 cup diced green bell pepper coring and seeding peppers, 25 Heat oven to 375 degrees. Trim fat from meat and cut meat into strips about 1/4-inch thick and 3 inches long, cutting across the grain where peeling a green possible. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. Put flour on a sheet of onion, 30 wax paper. Toss meat in flour, a few pieces at a time, and place on peeling garlic, 32 another sheet of wax paper. Save remaining flour. Heat 1/4 cup oil in mincing vegetables, 58 a large heavy skillet over high heat. Brown meat in small batches and opening cans, 59 put browned pieces in a bowl. Add more oil to skillet as needed. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a 6- to 8-quart rangetop-to-oven casserole over moderate calibrating the oven, 89 heat. Add onion, celery, green pepper, scallions and garlic. Cook dusting meat, 51 about 10 minutes, stirring often, until vegetables are tender. Stir in browning meat, 76 thyme; cook 30 seconds. Reduce heat to low and stir in flour left over sautéing vegetables, 83 from coating meat; cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add remaining ingredients and browned meat (including any juices). Stir boiling ingredients, 76 well and bring to a boil. Boil 5 minutes, then cover and bake 1 hour simmering and 10 to 20 minutes, or until meat is very tender. Discard bay leaves. ingredients, 84 Serves 10 or more setting the timer, 91 finding the spoon in the pot, 80 Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

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This simple potato and leek soup has an added deep, woodsy flavor. (dds)

Mushroom, Leek and Potato Soup

Refer to: 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon olive oil measuring butter/ 1 small red onion, cut into 1/2- 8 to 12 ounces mushrooms, margarine, 28 inch squares irregularly sliced peeling an onion, 31 3 leeks, white parts only (8 1/2 cup dry white wine chopping ounces), sliced into 1/4-inch pepper vegetables, 45 rounds or half rounds 1/2 to 1 cup light or heavy cream preparing leeks, 36 1 pound potatoes, quartered and (optional) slicing vegetables, 66 thinly sliced fresh herbs: parsley, chervil, salt tarragon, thyme, finely making a soup stock, 82 6 cups wild mushroom stock chopped, for garnish measuring liquid Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a soup pot and add the onion and ingredients, 29 leeks. Cook them over high heat for several minutes, stirring quartering potatoes, 62 frequently; then lower the heat and add the potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, washing produce, 41 and 2 cups of the stock. Cover the pot and stew the vegetables over salt and pepper to low heat for about 10 minutes. Heat the remaining tablespoon butter taste, 63 and olive oil in a wide skillet. Add the mushrooms and sauté them over high heat until they begin to release their juices, stirring as needed. preparing Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and the wine, and cook until the wine is reduced mushrooms, 37 and syrupy. Scrape the musrooms into the soup pot, and add the simmering remaining 4 cups of the stock. Bring to a boil; then simmer slowly, ingredients, 84 covered, until the potatoes are completely soft, about 25 minutes. finding the spoon in the Taste the soup and season with more salt, if needed, and freshly pot, 80 ground black pepper. Add the cream, if using, and heat through. reducing Serve the soup garnished with the fresh herbs. ingredients, 83 Serves 4 to 6

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

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A longtime favorite of visitors to the French Market in New Orleans, nine-bean soup never really seems to contain exactly nine beans. Originally, one would include salt pork or ham hocks in place of the ham that appears here. This version seems a little healthier and lets all the beans' flavors come through to be recognized.

Nine-bean Soup

Refer to: 2 cups nine-bean soup mix (see 1 clove garlic, minced sorting and soaking below) 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt beans, 40 2 quarts water 1 16-ounce can chopped draining 1 pound lean sugar-cured ham, tomatoes, undrained ingredients, 50 cubed 1 10-ounce can tomatoes and measuring liquid 1 large onion, chopped green chiles, undrained and ingredients, 29 chopped cubing meat, 26 peeling an onion, 31 Sort and wash 2 cups of the bean mix. Place in a large pot with a lid. Cover with water 2 inches above the beans and soak overnight. Drain chopping beans. Add 2 quarts fresh, cold water, cubed ham, chopped onion, vegetables, 45 minced garlic and salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and peeling garlic, 32 simmer 1 1/2 hours or until beans are tender. Add remaining mincing vegetables, 58 ingredients and simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. measuring dry Makes 2 quarts ingredients, 28 opening cans, 59 boiling ingredients, 76 Nine-bean Soup Mix contains equal portions of dried yellow split peas, setting the timer, 91 dried black beans, dried red beans, dried pinto beans, dried navy simmering beans, dried Great Northern beans, red lentils, dried green split peas, ingredients, 84 dried black-eyed peas and barley pearls. This mix is a clever way to finding the spoon in remember all your friends and co-workers during the holiday season the pot, 80 without breaking the budget. It's the food gift that is a departure from the usual sweets and can be consumed long after the holidays when we are looking for something to get us back on the healthy track. I make one trip to the health food store where these beans are sold in bulk. I don't bother to weigh each item, but I make sure that i have equal amounts of each. Then I mix them in a trash bag and scoop out 2-cup portions into self-sealing plastic bags along with a copy of the recipe. With a minimum of effort and not very much money, I have created attractive gifts for dozens of my friends.

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Pozole is a favorite of my friends on both sides of the Mexico/Texas border. It is a hearty soup combining the lusty flavors of pork, chicken, peppers, onion, garlic and corn...everything Mexican.

Pozole Presidio Style

Refer to: 1 pound pozole 1 pound pork, cubed 2 pig's feet, split 1 teaspoon ground oregano measuring dry 2 large onions, chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin ingredients, 28 1 whole head garlic, cloves 1 10-ounce can green chiles, cut peeling an onion, 31 peeled and whole into strips chopping 3-4 cups chicken broth 3 jalapeño chiles or crushed vegetables, 45 1 whole chicken, cut into serving dried chile petins peeling garlic, 32 parts salt and pepper to taste measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Soak pozole overnight in 8-10 cups water. Add pig’s feet, onions and cubing meat, 26 garlic. Simmer 3 hours. Add hot chicken broth to maintain stock level. During final hour add chicken, pork, oregano, cumin, and chiles. salt and pepper to Remove all bones and salt and pepper to taste. taste, 63 adding water to Serves 10-12 soups, 75 opening cans, 59 simmering Don't let the pig's feet put you off if you have never cooked with them. ingredients, 84 If they are not readily available at your market, ask your butcher to get setting the timer, 91 them. It's worth the effort for that unforgettable flavor. adding water to soups, 75 finding the spoon in the pot, 80

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Traditionally, this soup wants a ham hock. We prefer the leaner, less salty flavor of a slab of ham from the deli.

Split Pea Soup

Refer to: sorting and soaking 1 pound ham, cubed 1 teaspoon salt beans, 40 1 pound dry split peas fresh ground pepper to taste cubing meat, 26 8 carrots, peeled and sliced 10 cups water or broth washing produce, 41 1 onion, diced peeling carrots and Sort and soak peas several hours. Put all ingredients into large pot. potatoes, 31 Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until carrots are tender and slicing vegetables, 66 peas are mushy. Stir often when peas begin to soften to prevent peeling an onion, 31 scorching. Cook a total of 1 1/2 hours. dicing vegetables, 49 Serves 8-10 measuring dry ingredients, 28 grinding pepper, You might also try the lusty Serrano ham from Spain. salt and pepper to taste, 63 boiling ingredients, 76 simmering ingredients, 84 finding the spoon in the pot, 80 setting the timer, 91

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My best friend mizz lizzie showed me this quick and totally yummy soup two decades ago when we were not rich and in a hurry. We both still are.

Zucchini Soup

Refer to: 8 tender zucchini, sliced salt and pepper to taste 2 cups chicken broth, homemade 1 cup cream washing produce, 41 or from a can slicing vegetables, 66 measuring liquid Cook zucchini in chicken broth until tender to the touch of a fork. Blend ingredients, 29 in blender with 1 1/2 cups of the broth, salt, pepper and cream. Return simmering to pot and heat very slowly or serve cold. ingredients, 84 Garnishes: Serve topped with dill weed and soda or oyster crackers using a blender, 68 to side. Serves 4-6

Very friendly served warm and just as nice the next day in a cold lunch.

133 134 Salads

In the center and on the side

Contents Belly Acres Potato Salad ...... 137 Ceviche ...... 138 Five-bean Salad ...... 139 Indonesian Rice Salad ...... 140 Marinated Chicken Salad with Pasta, Grapes and Cashews . . . . 141 Pasta Verde Salad ...... 142 Sangre de Cristo Taco Salad . . . . . 143 Spinach Salad with Creamy Mustard Dressing ...... 144 Tomato Raita ...... 145 Warm Walnut Salad with Orange/Raspberry Dressing . . . . 146 White Rabbit Salad ...... 147

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136 Salads

I give you a recipe for two. Simply multiply it by the number of people coming to the barbecue or picnic. I have made this recipe for as few as four and for as many as seventy here at Belly Acres. It holds up well for increased numbers.

Belly Acres Potato Salad Refer to: 1 large russet potato, cubed with 1 2-ounce jar chopped pimentos washing produce, 41 skin on 1 tablespoon onion, minced chopping vegetables, 45 1 boiled egg, chopped 1 teaspoon prepared mustard slicing vegetables, 66 1 dill pickle spear (garlic-dill if 2 tablespoons mayonnaise peeling an onion, 31 available), chopped salt and white pepper to taste mincing vegetables, 58 6 stuffed green olives, sliced simmering ingredients, 84 Simmer potatoes for 15 minutes. Spear one piece with a fork and taste for doneness. It should be cooked, but firm and not falling apart. Cook boiling and peeling a few more minutes, if necessary. Drain and set aside. Place all other eggs, 75 ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Add potatoes and gently fold in. draining ingredients, 50 Taste for salt and mayonnaise. If you make the salad the day before measuring dry needed, you may need to add mayonnaise the next day to moisten it ingredients, 28 a bit. combining Serves 2 ingredients, 46 salt and pepper to taste, 63 Mix the salad gently with your hands as a scoop. If you use too much force, the cooked potatoes will start to break up. Then you have mashed potato salad.

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I first tasted ceviche on a small fishing boat in the Mar Caribe. My friend dove for the huge conchas. I was skeptical to see the shellfish “cooking” in the bag of lime juice under the captain’s seat. One taste and I was hooked for life. A mere nibble of this dish sends me back to the evening of the setting sun off the port and the rising moon off the starboard.

Ceviche

Refer to: 1 pound fish or shellfish in bite- 1/3 cup sliced stuffed green slicing meats, 65 size pieces (white fish fillets, olives juicing citrus fruits, 54 shrimp or scallops) 3 tablespoons juice from green marinating meats, 28 fresh lime juice to cover olives 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil draining ingredients, 50 1 tablespoon garlic salt 2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and measuring dry 1/2 onion, chopped finely chopped ingredients, 28 1 2.5-ounce can sliced black 1/2 green or red bell pepper, peeling an onion, 31 olives chopped chopping vegetables, 45 4 tablespoons chile macho or opening cans, 59 salsa Place fish in a glass container and cover with lime juice. Refrigerate overnight. Completely drain and add other ingredients. Chill in the refrigerator 3 to 4 hours. Serve with plain saltine crackers. Serves 4-6

Ceviche will keep in the refrigerator for several days.

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Nothing quicker...nothing better, except maybe the second day.

Five-bean Salad

Refer to: 1 16-ounce can each of the 1 red or white onion, thinly sliced opening cans, 59 following: 1 cup sugar draining ingredients, 50 green beans 1/2 cup salad oil peeling an onion, 31 yellow beans 1/2 cup tarragon or white vinegar kidney beans 1 tablespoon salt slicing vegetables, 66 garbanzos 1 teaspoon freshly ground black measuring liquid lima beans or white pepper ingredients, 29 measuring dry Drain all beans. Mix remaining ingredients for marinade. Combine ingredients, 28 with beans and onion. Place in self-sealing plastic bag. Mix well and combining refrigerate overnight (or at least 3 hours). Turn occasionally. ingredients, 46 Serves 10

I keep these beans on hand all summer. Throw a few hamburger patties on the grill and you have an instant party. Of course you can substitute other favorite beans. Fresh beans steamed and then chilled make this good salad even better.

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Sri Wasano’s brown salad is a meal in itself. Sweet and pungent flavors plus crunchy and smooth textures come together to create a sensational surprise. (dds)

Indonesian Rice Salad

Refer to: 2 cups brown rice measuring dry 3 cups water ingredients, 28 measuring liquid Place in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and simmer ingredients, 29 until tender (35 to 45 minutes). While the rice cooks, combine in a cooking rice, 79 large bowl: juicing citrus fruits, 54 1/3 cup peanut oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce peeling garlic, 32 3 tablespoons Chinese sesame 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper mincing vegetables, 58 oil (to taste) preparing fresh 1/2 cup orange juice 2 tablespoons rice or cider pineapples, 35 1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, vinegar combining minced 1 cup chopped fresh pineapple ingredients, 46 1 teaspoon salt (also OK to use canned-in-juice peeling a green onion, 30 crushed pineapple) peeling celery, 31 Add the hot rice directly to the bowlful of dressing. Mix well. When it coring and seeding has cooled to room temperature, cover tightly and refrigerate until peppers, 25 cold. Shortly before serving, stir in: slicing vegetables, 66 opening cans, 59 3 scallions, finely minced (whites 1/2 pound fresh mung bean draining ingredients, 50 and greens) sprouts chopping nuts, 45 1 stalk celery, finely minced 1/2 cup (packed) raisins or toasting nuts, 93 1 medium-sized red or green bell currants pepper, thinly sliced 1 cup coarsely chopped peanuts 1 8-ounce can water chestnuts, and/or cashews, lightly toasted drained and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons sesame seeds optional: fresh snow peas, for garnish

Serves 4-6

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The nutty, fruity, and tart flavors complement each other in this scrumptious salad. Great for patio and sack lunches.

Marinated Chicken Salad with Pasta, Grapes and Cashews Refer to: 1 pound boneless chicken 1/4 teaspoon salt simmering breasts 1/8 teaspoon white pepper ingredients, 84 1/4 teaspoon salt in water 1 cup each of seedless green shredding meat, 64 2/3 cup dry white wine and red grapes, cut in half measuring liquid 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 1/2 cup diagonally sliced celery ingredients, 29 1 8-ounce package shell pasta, 1/2 cup cashews juicing citrus fruits, 54 cooked red leaf lettuce marinating meats, 28 3/4 cup mayonnaise draining ingredients, 50 Place chicken in salted water and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Cool cooking pasta, 78 and cut into strips. Combine wine and lemon juice; pour over chicken, measuring dry tossing gently. Cover and chill at least 2 hours. Drain, reserving ingredients, 28 marinade. Set chicken aside. Strain marinade; set aside 1/4 cup plus peeling celery, 31 2 tablespoons. Combine reserved marinade, mayonnaise, pasta, 1/4 slicing vegetables, 66 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Line individual plates with lettuce. Place pasta/mayonnaise mixture over lettuce. Arrange chicken pieces, washing produce, 41 grapes, celery and cashews over pasta. combining Serves 4 ingredients, 46

The amount of mayonnaise in this recipe is very much a personal taste. Start off with a lighter touch and add more if you find it necessary. If you would like to take this on a picnic, omit the lettuce and mix everything into a single bowl. It is not as attractive, but just as delicious. You might save the cashews aside and add at the last minute to keep them crisp.

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

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This colorful salad is perfect to accompany any spring meal, and a welcome change from the usual, especially after a long winter. (dds)

Pasta Verde Salad

Refer to: cooking pasta, 78 8 ounces spinach linguini, 1/4 cup sliced green onions peeling carrots and cooked al dente and drained 1/4-1/2 cup freshly grated potatoes, 31 3/4 cup peeled julienne strips of Parmesan cheese slicing vegetables, 66 carrot 2 tablespoons sliced black olives 1 large tomato, diced peeling tomatoes, 33 dicing vegetables, 49 In large bowl, mix linguini, carrots, tomato, green onions, Parmesan peeling a green onion, 30 cheese and olives. grating cheese, 52 Dressing opening cans, 59 measuring dry ingredients, 28 15-20 fresh basil leaves 1 1/4 cups virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, minced freshly ground black pepper to washing produce, 41 1/2 cup white wine vinegar taste peeling garlic, 32 mincing vegetables, 58 Combine basil and garlic in food processor and process until finely measuring liquid minced. With processor running, add vinegar, oil and pepper. Toss ingredients, 29 salad with dressing and serve. salt and pepper to Serves 8-10 taste, 63 using a food processor, 69 tossing ingredients, 67

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

142 Salads

An entire meal in a bowl. Zip it up or tone it down, depending on the ability of your taste buds to endure the heat.

Sangre de Cristo Taco Salad

Refer to: 1 pound hot or mild bulk ground 1/2 pound sharp cheddar browning meat, 76 pork sausage, crumbled and cheese, grated peeling an onion, 31 browned 1 large tomato, chopped mincing vegetables, 58 1 medium onion, minced 1 avocado, peeled and chopped 1 4-ounce can chopped green 1 2.5-ounce can sliced ripe olives opening cans, 59 chiles 6 handfuls of tortilla chips, draining ingredients, 50 1 12-ounce can Ranch Style crushed, not pulverized grating cheese, 52 beans, drained and rinsed 1 head green leaf lettuce, torn chopping vegetables, 45 into bite-size pieces washing produce, 41 Layer the above ingredients in the order listed in a very large salad preparing avocados, 33 bowl or punch bowl. Start with the sausage on the bottom and so on. composing salads, 47 Toss at the table and serve immediately. tossing ingredients, 67 Garnishes: put out a bowl of your favorite picante sauce and a bowl of sour cream for dolloping. Serves 4-6

Sometimes I cook the onion and chiles with the meat and keep it warm until serving. You could also put each of these ingredients into a cereal bowl and set them out on the counter. Then each person can build his or her own dream salad. If you think you might want leftovers for tomorrow's lunch, leave out the tortilla chips in that portion that you will save. Add them the next day, just before you serve it.

143 Salads

A beautiful introduction to an elegant meal.

Spinach Salad with Creamy Mustard Dressing

Refer to: washing produce, 41 1 pound spinach, rinsed, 1/4 pound mushrooms, sliced stemmed, and torn into pieces 1 cup sliced water chestnuts frying bacon, 81 1/2 pound bacon, fried crisp, 1/2 cup black olives, sliced preparing drained and crumbled mushrooms, 37 slicing vegetables, 66 In large bowl, combine all ingredients and toss well with Creamy opening cans, 59 Mustard Dressing (page 221). measuring dry Serves 8-10 ingredients, 28 tossing ingredients, 67

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

144 Salads

The cooling effects of this salad make it a perfect accompaniment for spicy dishes such as Indian tandoori chicken. (dds)

Tomato Raita Refer to: washing produce, 41 3 large chilled tomatoes, cubed 1 roasted green chile, chopped 1 medium onion, coarsely grated 3/4 cup (or more) plain yogurt peeling tomatoes, 33 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil 1/2 teaspoon salt dicing vegetables, 49 or coriander leaves peeling an onion, 31 grating cheese, 52 Combine all ingredients. Serve at once. mincing vegetables, 58 Serves 4 roasting chiles, 91 chopping vegetables, 45 measuring liquid ingredients, 29 measuring dry ingredients, 28 combining ingredients, 46

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Creative Yogurt Cooking , by Ethel Lang Graham, ©1978

145 Salads

A subtle combination of orange, walnut and raspberry flavors, accentuated with goat cheese. A perfect starter; flavorful, but not overwhelming.

Warm Walnut Salad with Orange/Raspberry Dressing

Refer to: 2 teaspoons butter 1 head of butter lettuce measuring butter/ 1 leek, sliced 1/4 inch crosswise 1 head of radicchio lettuce margarine, 28 and then washed 3 tablespoons walnut oil preparing leeks, 36 1/2 cup walnuts, whole or 2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar slicing vegetables, 66 chopped zest of 1 orange, grated finely measuring dry 2 ounces goat cheese, cut or (just the orange part) ingredients, 28 crumbled into 1/4-inch pieces salt and black pepper, to taste chopping nuts, 45 washing produce, 41 Clean and dry butter lettuce and radicchio. Break into bite-size pieces and place in a salad bowl. In a sauté pan, over medium-high heat, measuring liquid melt butter. Add leeks and sauté for 3 minutes, or until nicely browned. ingredients, 29 Add walnuts and continue to sauté for 3 more minutes. Remove pan zesting citrus fruits, 74 from burner. Immediately add oil, vinegar, and orange zest to warm salt and pepper to pan and let sit for 20 seconds, or until thoroughly heated. Top lettuce taste, 63 with goat cheese, salt, and pepper. Pour contents of the pan over the melting butter, 82 goat cheese and lettuce. Toss thoroughly and serve. sautéing vegetables, 83 Serves 2 as a meal and 4 as a salad course tossing ingredients, 67 Le secret: Toss thoroughly to warm evenly. The hot dressing is intended to warm the cheese and wilt the lettuce.

Adventure Club: Try Roquefort or blue cheese in place of goat cheese.

Garnish: Top with orange zest.

Suggested accompaniments: Serve as is for a salad course. As a meal, try adding a sliced, grilled (or cooked otherwise) chicken breast or duck breast and orange slices with peel removed.

From The Surreal Gourmet, by Bob Blumer ©1992, published by Chronicle Books.

146 Salads

Guaranteed to bring your body temperature down on a hot afternoon.

White Rabbit Salad Refer to: measuring dry 3 cups cottage cheese (may be 1/4 cup (packed) raisins or ingredients, 28 lowfat) currants 1 to 2 tablespoons honey 1/2 cup chopped, toasted nuts measuring liquid ingredients, 29 (optional), to taste 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice, to 2 medium-sized tart apples, juicing citrus fruits, 54 taste diced toasting nuts, 93 chopping nuts, 45 Plus many options: peeling and coring an apple, 30 fresh peach slices orange sections dicing vegetables, 49 fresh pear slices chunks of ripe honeydew or slicing vegetables, 66 seedless red or green grapes cantaloupe combining Combine everything and chill. ingredients, 46 Serves 6

Serving salads with chilled plates and forks is my secret, and now it is yours. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

147 148 Poultry

Chicken, turkey and game hens

Contents Chicken Cacciatore ...... 151 Chicken Fajitas ...... 152 Chicken Polenta ...... 153 Five Spice Chicken ...... 154 Herbed Chicken in Wine ...... 155 Italian Marinated Chicken ...... 156 King Ranch Chicken ...... 157 Roasted Rock Cornish Game Hens ...... 158 Sesame Cashew Chicken ...... 159 The Turkey ...... 160 Tipsy Hens ...... 161

149 Poultry

150 Poultry

A comforting, familiar traditional dish, cacciatore balances the Italian seasonings with the mild effects of the chicken.

Chicken Cacciatore Refer to: measuring dry 4 pounds of your favorite 1 teaspoon salt ingredients, 28 chicken pieces 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground measuring liquid 1/2 cup flour black pepper ingredients, 29 1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 teaspoon oregano leaves peeling garlic, 32 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves 1 green bell pepper, diced 1/2 teaspoon Italian herb mincing vegetables, 58 1 cup onion, diced seasoning washing produce, 41 1 16-ounce can chopped 1 tablespoon parsley flakes coring and seeding tomatoes 1 teaspoon paprika peppers, 25 1 6-ounce can tomato paste 1 teaspoon sugar dicing vegetables, 49 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced 1/2 cup dry red wine peeling an onion, 31 opening cans, 59 Dredge chicken in flour and brown in oil on both sides. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer one hour. Serve over rice or pasta. preparing mushrooms, 37 Serves 6 slicing vegetables, 66 grinding pepper, 54 dusting meat, 51 If you like your peppers a little crisper, add them the last 10 minutes. browning meat, 76 Cacciatore freezes well. For a special unexpected surprise, add 10 simmering ounces of sliced artichoke hearts. ingredients, 84 setting the timer, 91

151 Poultry

This healthy dish is always a hit. An excellent way to stretch ingredients by serving as a build-it-yourself dish from the stove. (dds)

Chicken Fajitas Refer to: juicing citrus fruits, 54 measuring liquid juice of 2 limes 1/2 teaspoon cumin ingredients, 29 1/4 cup tequila (optional) 1 pound skinless, boneless washing produce, 41 1/4 cup olive oil chicken breasts chopping vegetables, 45 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 green bell pepper, cored and 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy seeded peeling garlic, 32 sauce 1 red bell pepper, cored and mincing vegetables, 58 1 tablespoon Worcestershire seeded coring and seeding sauce 1 or 2 Anaheim chiles, cored peppers, 25 2 cloves garlic, minced and seeded peeling an onion, 31 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1 red onion, peeled and sliced slicing vegetables, 66 slicing meats, 65 In a small bowl, combine lime juice, tequila, oil, cilantro, soy, garlic, oregano and cumin. Set aside. marinating meats, 28 draining ingredients, 50 Slice chicken into bite-size strips. Pour marinade over chicken strips and marinate, covered, overnight. Drain well, reserving marinade. sautéing vegetables, 83 Slice peppers, chiles and onion into thin strips. Brush a non-stick pan with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the marinade. Add vegetables and cook over medium heat until tender-crisp, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove to platter and keep warm. Again brush skillet (or flat grill) with marinade and add chicken strips. Stir-fry over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until done. Serve fajitas with warm corn tortillas, vegetarian refried beans, chopped tomatoes, chopped cilantro, salsa and guacamole. Serves 4-6

This zesty marinade can be used for chicken, lean beef or seafood (try a combination of shrimp and scallops). Another variation is to marinate chicken breasts, grill, then slice before serving. I have even

Reprinted from Delitefully HealthMark by Susan Stevens, copyright ©1989, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

152 Poultry

assembled these as kebabs. (dds)

An interesting twist to a traditional dish.

Refer to: Chicken Polenta measuring butter/ margarine, 28 measuring liquid 1/2 stick butter 1 quart milk ingredients, 29 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 1/2 cups fine cornmeal cubing meat, 26 4 cups chicken, cubed 4 egg yolks peeling an onion, 31 2 medium onions, thinly sliced salt and freshly ground black 12 ounces fresh mushrooms, pepper slicing vegetables, 66 sliced 1/2 cup grated Parmesan preparing 6 tomatoes, peeled and diced cheese mushrooms, 37 peeling tomatoes, 33 Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Heat half the butter and half of the oil dicing vegetables, 49 in a sauté pan until very hot, but not smoking. Season chicken with measuring dry salt and pepper and sauté on all sides until light brown. Remove ingredients, 28 chicken and add the onions to the same pan. Cook for 10 minutes. In another pan, heat the remaining butter and oil and sauté the cracking eggs, 48 mushrooms until the liquid evaporates. Season with salt and pepper. separating eggs, 63 Combine ingredients from both pans and the chicken with the diced salt and pepper to tomatoes in a large pot. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and taste, 63 cook for 20 minutes, uncovered, over low heat. In a saucepan bring grinding pepper, 54 milk to a boil, gradually sprinkle in the cornmeal, whisking constantly for 10 minutes. Remove cornmeal mixture from the heat, whisk in egg calibrating the oven, 89 yolks and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the polenta into melting butter, 82 a large ceramic dish and spread in an even layer. Pour the chicken browning meat, 76 mixture on top of the polenta and sprinkle with the grated cheese. sautéing vegetables, 83 Bake for 15 minutes. setting the timer, 91 Serves 6 simmering ingredients, 84 setting the timer, 91 Traditional polenta tends to be very bland and will call for heartier whisking ingredients, 74 accompaniments. This version wants just the opposite. layering casseroles, 55

153 Poultry

Requiring only 15 minutes to put together, this healthy dish simmers while a pot of rice cooks and you unwind from a long day. The aroma of the blended Chinese five spice and the brown sugar is quite soothing. (dds)

Five Spice Chicken Refer to: measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons low- 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon peeling garlic, 32 sodium soy sauce brown sugar mincing vegetables, 58 1/4 cup dry sherry or saké 1 teaspoon five spice powder peeling ginger, 32 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups salt-free chicken broth, 1 tablespoon minced fresh defatted zesting citrus fruits, 74 ginger 4 to 6 skinless, boneless measuring dry 2 teaspoons lemon or lime zest chicken breasts ingredients, 28 defatting stock, 49 In a large skillet, combine 1/4 cup soy sauce, sherry, garlic, ginger, simmering zest, brown sugar and five spice powder. Stir in 1 cup of broth until ingredients, 84 well blended. Arrange chicken in a single layer and simmer, covered, setting the timer, 91 for 20 to 30 minutes. Add water if necessary. Turn chicken. Add remaining broth, soy sauce and sugar. Continue to simmer for 15 to 20 more minutes or until chicken is done. Add water as necessary to thin sauce. Serves 4-6

Reprinted from Delitefully HealthMark by Susan Stevens, copyright ©1989, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

154 Poultry

The pleasant aroma of this easy, healthy dish calls friends and family to the table. (dds)

Herbed Chicken in Wine Refer to: measuring dry 4 boneless and skinless 2 tablespoons water ingredients, 28 chicken breasts 1 teaspoon olive oil measuring liquid 1/2 teaspoon each dried basil, 2 carrots, julienne ingredients, 29 sage and savory 1 leek, sliced washing produce, 41 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 2 cups sliced mushrooms peeling carrots and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 1/4 teaspoon Lite salt potatoes, 31 1/2 cup dry white wine freshly ground black pepper slicing vegetables, 66 2 tablespoons unbleached flour preparing leeks, 36 Place chicken breasts in an 8“ square baking dish coated with cooking preparing spray. Sprinkle with herbs and pour in wine. Cover and bake at 350 mushrooms, 37 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes. grinding pepper, 54 Blend flour and water. Set aside. using cooking spray, 71 Heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté vegetables over low heat, covered, covering casseroles, 47 for 5 to 10 minutes or until tender. Blend pan juices from chicken into calibrating the oven, 89 flour mixture then pour into skillet. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook setting the timer, 91 and stir over medium heat until thickened. Serve sauce over chicken whisking ingredients, 74 breasts. sautéing vegetables, 83 Serves 4 salt and pepper to taste, 63 reducing ingredients, 83

Reprinted from Delitefully HealthMark by Susan Stevens, copyright ©1989, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

155 Poultry

An astonishing way to seal in the moistness of the chicken. (dds)

Italian Marinated Chicken Refer to: measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1 2- to 3-pound frying chicken, 1 clove garlic, minced juicing citrus fruits, 54 cut up 1 teaspoon oregano peeling garlic, 32 1 cup plain yogurt 1 teaspoon paprika mincing vegetables, 58 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt measuring dry 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon ingredients, 28 juice combining Place chicken pieces in a shallow dish. Combine remaining ingredients, 46 ingredients; pour over chicken. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator marinating meats, 28 3 to 5 hours. Broil about 5 inches from the heat 15 to 20 minutes on broiling meats, 89 each side. Baste occasionally with marinade. basting meats, 88 Serves 4 setting the timer, 91

This chicken is surprising and delicious when grilled on the barbecue, either in pieces or cut small for kebabs. (dds)

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Creative Yogurt Cooking , by Ethel Lang Graham, ©1978

156 Poultry

There are many versions of this traditional dish from Texas—ranging from the "first you get a can of cream of chicken soup" variety to the "roast your own peppers, grow your own tomatoes" style. This is my own middle-of-the-road choice.

King Ranch Chicken Refer to: measuring butter/ 4 teaspoons butter 1/4 teaspoon salt margarine, 28 3 tablespoons flour 1/4 teaspoon black pepper measuring dry 3 cups chicken broth 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin ingredients, 28 1 cup half-and-half 1/2 cup onion, chopped measuring liquid 3 teaspoons chicken bouillon 4 cups cooked chicken, cut into ingredients, 29 1 10-ounce can of spicy bite-size pieces opening cans, 59 peppers, tomatoes and 1 pound cheddar cheese, onions grated peeling an onion, 31 1 7-ounce can chopped green 1 dozen corn tortillas chopping vegetables, 45 chiles cubing meat, 26 grating cheese, 52 Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bring chicken broth, half and half and calibrating the oven, 89 chicken bouillon to a boil. Set aside. Melt butter and whisk in flour. Add the hot chicken broth and stir until slightly thickened. Add the boiling ingredients, 76 tomato/chile mix, chiles, salt, black pepper, cumin, onion and chicken. melting butter, 82 Stir well. Layer in a 9-inch square baking pan as follows: tortillas, whisking ingredients, 74 chicken mixture, cheddar cheese. Repeat three times and top with layering casseroles, 55 remaining cheese. Cover with foil and bake 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 more minutes. covering casseroles, 47 Serves 4-6 setting the timer, 91

This dish does not freeze particularly well. It triples or even quadruples nicely, though, for those New Year’s Day crowds.

157 Poultry

There's nothing like a romantic, candlelit dinner for two. A small bowl of flowers on the table. Your recently favorite music. Each of you with your own personal bird...digging in with both hands so you don't miss a morsel. What a scene!

Roasted Rock Cornish Game Hens Refer to: washing whole chickens, 42 2 Rock Cornish game hens vegetable oil peeling carrots and 2 carrots, peeled and sliced salt and pepper potatoes, 31 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 bay leaves slicing vegetables, 66 Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove any giblets, necks or other peeling an onion, 31 parts stored in the body cavities of the birds. Wash birds inside and dicing vegetables, 49 out. Pat dry with a paper towel. Salt and pepper the inside cavities. calibrating the oven, 89 Stuff the cavities with the carrots, onions and bay leaf. Rub the skin with vegetable oil. Place breast side up on a greased rack in a roasting covering fowl with a pan. Loosely cover with an aluminum foil tent. Bake for 1 hour, tent, 89 remove tent, and continue baking for 15 more minutes. Baste every setting the timer, 91 10 minutes. Leave the vegetables in, although they are not for eating. basting meats, 88 Remove to warm plates. Serves 2

158 Poultry

The crunch of the seeds and nuts is beautifully set off by the sauce. The flavors of sesame, cashew and apricot make this dish elegant. (dds)

Sesame Cashew Chicken Refer to: peeling ginger, 32 The marinade: The chicken: peeling garlic, 32 1 1-inch cube fresh ginger, 4 to 6 skinless, boneless zesting citrus fruits, 74 peeled chicken breasts cracking eggs, 48 1 clove garlic 1/2 cup dry roasted 2 teaspoons lemon zest cashews separating eggs, 63 2 egg whites 1/2 cup sesame seeds measuring liquid 1/4 cup dry sherry 1/2 cup dry bread crumbs ingredients, 29 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juicing citrus fruits, 54 juice toasting nuts, 93 1 tablespoon low-sodium making bread soy sauce crumbs, 56 using a food Prepare marinade: With food processor motor running, drop ginger processor, 69 and garlic through feed tube and mince. Add remaining marinade ingredients and process 10 seconds or until well blended. Set aside. pounding meat, 61 marinating meats, 28 With the back of a heavy knife, pound chicken breasts until about 1/2 inch thick. Place in a 9x13-inch pan and pour marinade over chicken. dusting meat, 51 Turn to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain (discard calibrating the oven, 89 marinade). setting the timer, 91 Chop cashews finely in food processor. Combine with sesame seeds testing for doneness, 92 and bread crumbs then place in a pie pan or other shallow dish. Dip spatula off the cookie chicken in cashew mixture, then place on a non-stick baking sheet. sheet, 92 Bake at 400 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned and chicken is no longer pink in thickest part. Serve with Apricot Sweet and Sour Sauce (page 214). Serves 4-6

For a dynamite appetizer or party treat, cut the chicken into thin strips. Serve with the sauce for dipping. (dds)

Reprinted from Delitefully HealthMark by Susan Stevens, copyright ©1989, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

159 Poultry

Benjamin Franklin urged our congress to select the turkey as our national bird, rather than the eagle, because of its respectable character and because it was native to our country. Even though he was not successful in his bid, the turkey holds a very special place on our holiday tables. My fondest memories of family gatherings have the "turkey-lurkey" in the center of a huge platter, waiting for the carving knife.

The Turkey Refer to: selecting a turkey, 12 calibrating the oven, 89 1 14- to 16-pound fresh turkey 7 cups Mamaw's Perfect salt Turkey Dressing (page 255) washing whole unsalted butter or shortening chickens, 42 stuffing and trussing Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse the turkey thoroughly and pat fowl, 40 dry. Salt the cavities and lightly stuff the crop and the body cavity with covering fowl with a the dressing. Truss the bird, rub it well with melted unsalted butter or tent, 89 shortening and place breast side up on a greased rack in an setting the timer, 91 uncovered roasting pan. Insert the meat thermometer into the thigh muscle so that it does not touch any bones. Make a pup-tent out of basting meats, 88 aluminum foil to lightly cover the bird to prevent early browning during testing fowl for roasting. After putting the bird into the oven, immediately reduce the doneness, 92 heat to 325 degrees. After about the first half-hour of cooking, baste carving fowl, 44 frequently with pan drippings or additional fat, about every 10 minutes. Roast 3 1/2 to 4 hours, until the internal temperature measures 180 degrees on the meat thermometer. Remove from oven and let rest 20 minutes to allow juices to settle in the bird. Save the juices for making gravy. Spoon out the dressing into a bowl for serving. Remove the bird to a platter for carving. Do not let the meat or dressing rest out of the refrigerator for longer than a half-hour after the end of the meal. Serves 12

If the turkey is frozen, allow at least 3 days for it to thaw in the refrigerator. Never thaw outside on the counter. I even find the fast- thaw methods a bit risky. Using different kinds of dressing in the body cavities gives guests a choice.

160 Poultry

A spectacular way to serve game hens as a centerpiece to a festive meal. (dds)

Tipsy Hens Refer to: washing whole 4 Cornish game hens chickens, 42 Marinade: measuring liquid 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/8 teaspoon crushed red ingredients, 29 3/4 cup olive oil pepper flakes peeling an onion, 31 1/2 cup gin 1 teaspoon ground ginger peeling garlic, 32 2 small onions, minced 1 tablespoon sugar or honey mincing vegetables, 58 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon Worcester- grinding pepper, 54 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground shire sauce measuring dry black pepper ingredients, 28 Place hens in large self-sealing plastic bag. Combine marinade marinating meats, 28 ingredients and pour into bag. Squeeze out air and seal. Marinate, calibrating the oven, 89 refrigerated, overnight. Remove hens from bag and place in roasting setting the timer, 91 pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes, basting regularly with the basting meats, 88 marinade. Serves 4

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

161 162 Seafood

Fish and shellfish

Contents Fisherman’s Fantasy ...... 165 Great Catch! ...... 166 Huachinango a la Veracruzana . .167 Margarita Prawns ...... 168 Seafood and Pasta with Basil Dressing ...... 169 Serpentine Swordfish Strips . . . .170 Shrimp Etouffée ...... 172 Steamed Orange Roughy ...... 173

163 Seafood

164 Seafood

This is a hearty and different casserole to serve on a winter night.

Fisherman’s Fantasy

Refer to: 2 cups thinly sliced leeks, 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets (cod, preparing leeks, 36 including 1 inch of green bass or halibut), cut into 6 slicing vegetables, 66 stalks portions with thinner tail peeling garlic, 32 2 cloves garlic, minced sections folded under for 3 boiling potatoes, peeled, even thickness mincing vegetables, 58 quartered lengthwise, and cut 1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and peeling carrots and into 1/2-inch pieces deveined potatoes, 31 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 pound bay scallops quartering potatoes, 62 1/4 cup chopped oil-cured black fresh lemon juice measuring liquid olives salt and ground white pepper to ingredients, 29 1/2 cup dry white wine taste pitting olives, 33 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley 1/2 cup fine fresh bread crumbs chopping vegetables, 45 2 tomatoes, peeled and 1/2 cup shredded Gruyère measuring dry chopped cheese ingredients, 28 1 teaspoon dried basil 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, washing produce, 41 melted peeling tomatoes, 33 In large skillet, cook leeks, garlic and potatoes in oil over moderate peeling and deveining heat, turning frequently, for 20 minutes or until potatoes are just shrimp, 30 tender. Stir in olives, wine, parsley, tomatoes and basil. Spoon juicing citrus fruits, 54 mixture into a shallow baking dish large enough to hold fish in one salt and pepper to taste, 63 layer. Arrange fish in single layer over the mixture and add shrimp and scallops, slightly pressing them down between the fish fillets. Sprinkle making bread crumbs, 56 with lemon juice, salt and white pepper. grating cheese, 52 In small bowl combine bread crumbs and Gruyère cheese. Sprinkle measuring butter/ mixture over seafood, and drizzle seafood with the butter. Bake in margarine, 28 preheated oven at 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes or until the top is melting butter, 82 golden brown and fish flakes easily. sautéing vegetables, 83 Serves 4 combining ingredients, 46 layering casseroles, 55 calibrating the oven, 89 Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, setting the timer, 91 ©1987

165 Seafood

I have chosen lobster and clams here, but you can use any shellfish...the fresher the better.

Great Catch!

Refer to: 24 steamer clams 1 teaspoon salt, divided scrubbing shellfish, 38 4 large lobster tails 1/4 teaspoon pepper, divided shucking corn, 39 4 chicken quarters 1/2 cup water, divided washing produce, 41 2 ears fresh corn, halved 1/2 cup white wine, divided quartering potatoes, 62 2 large potatoes, cut into 8 2 sticks clarified butter peeling an onion, 31 wedges each with skins on lemon wedges measuring dry 2 onions, quartered ingredients, 28 Scrub clams to remove all sand, rinse well and set in a colander to measuring liquid drain. Line 2 36-inch x 18-inch pieces of aluminum foil with ingredients, 29 cheesecloth. In the center of each piece, place one half of all the clarifying butter, 46 above solid ingredients. Mix water, wine, salt and pepper. Pour over grilling, 96 the solid ingredients. Gather up cheesecloth and tie with string or setting the timer, 91 kitchen twine. Pinch edges of foil to form an air-tight package. The water/wine will create a steam. Place packages over medium-hot juicing citrus fruits, 54 coals on a grill. Cook 40-50 minutes or until chicken is done. Transfer using the microwave to warm serving dishes. Serve hot with lemon wedges and butter in a oven, 72 place easy to reach for all. Dampen wash cloths with water and lemon juice and microwave on high for one minute. Each person gets a personal wash. Serves 4 very hungry people

This is an incredibly messy dish to eat, so I always have plenty of bibs and towels to pass around. It also makes sense to have large empty bowls, ready to catch shells and shucks.

166 Seafood

The first time I saw this made was on the Caribean beach over an open fire. The fellow made a fish basket from green sticks and put the ingredients between layers of brown paper. Too tasty for words.

Huachinango a la Veracruzana

Refer to: 3-pound whole red snapper, 4 fairly large tomatoes, skinned, head and tail on seeded, and chopped salt and pepper to taste, 63 salt to taste 2 bay leaves juicing citrus fruits, 54 4 tablespoons lime juice 1/4 teaspoon oregano measuring liquid 1/2 cup olive oil, divided 12 stuffed green olives, halved ingredients, 29 1 medium yellow onion, thinly 2 tablespoons capers peeling an onion, 31 sliced 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded slicing vegetables, 66 3 cloves garlic, minced and sliced peeling garlic, 32 Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Pierce the fish on both sides with a mincing vegetables, 58 small knife, rub in the salt and lime juice, and set it aside in a self- peeling tomatoes, 33 sealing plastic bag for 2 hours. Heat the oil (reserving 2 tablespoons chopping vegetables, 45 for later) and sauté the onion and garlic for 2 minutes. Add the rest of measuring dry the ingredients to the pan and cook over medium-high heat until the ingredients, 28 sauce is well seasoned and balanced, about 15 minutes. Place the fish in an oven-proof glass casserole and pour the sauce over the fish. coring and seeding Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil over the sauce and peppers, 25 bake the fish uncovered for about 50 minutes, turning once and calibrating the oven, 89 basting frequently. setting the timer, 91 Serves 4-6 sautéing vegetables, 83 basting meats, 88

Another of the many versions of huachinango is a baked casserole with sauce ingredients and fish thrown together.

167 Seafood

The gentle cooking aroma takes me back to a lazy afternoon in Costa Rica. However, I think they had borrowed the dish from their Mexican friends to the north.

Margarita Prawns

Refer to: peeling and deveining 1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp, 1/4 teaspoon salt shrimp, 30 pealed and deveined 1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili measuring butter/ 4 tablespoons butter pepper margarine, 28 2 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 teaspoon oregano measuring liquid 3 large cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, ingredients, 29 3 tablespoons tequila chopped 2 tablespoons lime juice lime wedges for garnish peeling garlic, 32 mincing vegetables, 58 Pat shrimp completely dry. Be sure they are free of any excess water. juicing citrus fruits, 54 Heat butter and oil in large skillet over medium heat, add garlic and measuring dry sauté for a minute. Add shrimp and cook 2 more minutes, stirring ingredients, 28 occasionally. Pour in tequila, lime juice, salt, chili pepper and oregano. Cook 2 more minutes. Add cilantro and cook about 15 seconds. washing produce, 41 Remove to a warm plate and garnish with lime wedges. chopping vegetables, 45 Serves 4 sautéing vegetables, 83 setting the timer, 91 warming plates, 73 You won't need much more than a tossed salad, hot rice, and crusty bread to complete the meal.

168 Seafood

Perfect summer fare...casual, but dramatic. Serve with wine and crusty French bread.

Seafood and Pasta with Basil Dressing

Refer to: 1 pound bay scallops, rinsed 1 cup frozen peas, thawed measuring liquid 1 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup chopped red bell ingredients, 29 1/2 pound fusilli, cooked al pepper cooking pasta, 78 dente and drained 1/2 cup diced red onion measuring dry 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 cup Kalamata olives, sliced ingredients, 28 1 pound medium shrimp, peeling and deveining cooked, peeled and deveined shrimp, 30 coring and seeding Prepare Basil Dressing (page 216). Simmer scallops in wine until peppers, 25 opaque; drain well. Toss fusilli with garlic powder. Add scallops and shrimp; toss again. Add peas, red pepper and onion. Pour Basil chopping vegetables, 45 Dressing over salad and toss thoroughly. Serve or refrigerate. If peeling an onion, 31 made ahead, salad will need extra dressing, so double the dressing dicing vegetables, 49 ingredients. Scatter olives around salad before serving. pitting olives, 33 Serves 8-10 slicing vegetables, 66 simmering ingredients, 84 draining ingredients, 50 The salad will be fresher and less fat if made just before serving. (dds) tossing ingredients, 67

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

169 Seafood

This is a smashing idea for those cooks fond of fish but not too crazy about handling and preparing it.

Serpentine Swordfish Strips

Marinated fish Refer to: measuring liquid 16 8-inch-long wooden 1/2 teaspoon salt ingredients, 29 barbecue skewers 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground 1/2 cup sour cream or sour half- white pepper juicing citrus fruits, 54 and-half 3 pounds swordfish fillets, cut measuring dry 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice 3/4 inch thick and as long as ingredients, 28 possible grinding pepper, 54 slicing meats, 65 Sauce marinating meats, 28 grilling, 96 2 cups sour cream or sour half- 1/4 teaspoon salt (more to simmering ingredients, 84 and-half taste) warming plates, 73 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice few grinds black pepper Soak the skewers in cold water for 1 hour.

Make the marinade: Mix the marinade ingredients together, pour into a large plastic bag, and set the bag in a bowl. Cut the swordfish steaks into strips, a scant 1 inch wide, each as long as possible. Add the strips to the marinade in the bag and secure with a twister seal. Turn the bag several times to make certain all the surfaces of the fish touch the marinade. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour, turning occasionally.

Make the sauce: Mix the sauce ingredients together in a small saucepan and set aside. Remove the swordfish strips from the marinade and remove the skewers from the water. Thread the swordfish strips onto the skewers by weaving the strips over and under the skewers at 3-inch intervals.

170 Seafood

Grill the fish: Place the skewered swordfish on the prepared grill and cook for about 4 minutes on each side or until the swordfish is completely cooked through and has lost its opacity. While the fish cooks, heat the sour cream sauce slowly over low heat. When the sauce is warmed, transfer it to a serving bowl and bring it to the table. When the swordfish is cooked, transfer the skewers to a serving platter and bring the platter to the table. Present the skewers topped with the sour cream sauce. Makes 8 servings

Serving suggestions: tart green salad, sweet potato and pineapple kabobs cook alongside the fish.

Reprinted from FISH ON THE GRILL by Phyllis Magida and Barbara Grunes, ©1986. Used with permission of Contemporary Books, Inc., Chicago.

171 Seafood

The first time I tasted étouffée, my father took me as a guest to a gracious Cajun home on a bayou in south Louisiana. Even though I had the immature taste buds of a ten-year old, I knew I was being treated to a marvelous experience. On that occasion, the étouffée was studded with crawfish. They are very difficult for most of us to get, so I substitute shrimp.

Shrimp Etouffée

Refer to: measuring liquid 1/2 cup oil 2 large tomatoes, peeled and ingredients, 29 1/2 cup flour finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 16-ounce can tomato sauce measuring dry ingredients, 28 2 medium yellow onions, finely 1 cup water chopped 4 to 5 sprigs parsley, chopped peeling garlic, 32 3 pounds raw shrimp, peeled 1 tablespoon paprika mincing vegetables, 58 and deveined 2 bay leaves peeling an onion, 31 1/2 cups chopped green onions salt and cayenne pepper to chopping vegetables, 45 1/2 green pepper, finely taste peeling and deveining chopped shrimp, 30 1/2 red pepper, finely chopped coring and seeding peppers, 25 Make a roux with the oil and flour. Add garlic and onions and stir a few times. Cook over very low heat until a light tan. Add remaining chopping vegetables, 45 ingredients. Cover pot and cook over very low heat 30 to 40 minutes washing produce, 41 or until there is sufficient sauce and the shrimp are done. Stir peeling tomatoes, 33 occasionally. Since little water is added, this dish must be cooked opening cans, 59 slowly to avoid sticking. Serve over hot rice. salt and pepper to taste, 63 Serves 8 making a roux, 82 simmering ingredients, 84 finding the spoon in the Etouffée only gets better the next day. I was surprised that it freezes pot, 80 so well. setting the timer, 91

172 Seafood

This very healthy, attractive dish has layers of bright vegetables and fish which steam together and can be removed directly to a platter at table. Steamed rice completes the meal.

Steamed Orange Roughy

Refer to: 2 1/2 pounds orange roughy 3 large cloves garlic, minced fillets 1 16-ounce can chopped measuring liquid ingredients, 29 2 tablespoons olive oil tomatoes, drained 1 medium yellow onion, thinly 1 teaspoon basil peeling an onion, 31 sliced 1 bay leaf slicing vegetables, 66 peeling garlic, 32 Heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onion and garlic until soft, mincing vegetables, 58 but not brown, about 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Drain the tomatoes and combine them with the basil and bay in a small bowl. opening cans, 59 Gather the vegetables into the center of the pan with a spatula. draining ingredients, 50 Spread to about the size and shape of the fish. Place the fish on top measuring dry of the vegetables. Spread the tomato mixture over the fish, cover and ingredients, 28 steam for 20 minutes. Tilt the skillet slightly and slide the entire combining ingredients, 46 contents intact onto a warmed platter. sautéing vegetables, 83 Serves 4 setting the timer, 91 warming plates, 73

173 174 Red Meats

Beef, pork and veal

Contents Beef Stroganoff ...... 177 Hearth-and-home Meatballs ...... 178 Inside-out Burgers ...... 179 Kebabs ...... 180 Knock 'em Dead Meatloaf ...... 182 Oceanside Grilled Pork ...... 183 Pepper Steak ...... 184 Picadillo ...... 185 Pitkin County Pork Chops ...... 186 Tivoli Veal Tarragon ...... 187 Vegetable and Beef Stir-Fry ...... 188

175 Red Meats

176 Red Meats

Yogurt in the place of the traditional sour cream gives this stroganoff an extra dimension, not to mention cutting down the fat content of a classically rich dish. (dds)

Beef Stroganoff Refer to: preparing mushrooms, 37 slicing vegetables, 66 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, 1 can condensed consommé peeling an onion, 31 sliced 3 tablespoons tomato paste measuring butter/ 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon Worcestershire margarine, 28 3 tablespoons butter or sauce margarine 1 teaspoon salt slicing meats, 65 1 1/2 pounds lean beef top of 1/4 cup sliced black olives measuring dry the round steak, cut into very (optional) ingredients, 28 thin strips 1/3 cup dry sherry measuring liquid 1/4 cup all-purpose flour ingredients, 29 1 cup plain yogurt opening cans, 59 sautéing vegetables, 83 Brown mushrooms and onion in butter in a large skillet. Remove and combining ingredients, 46 set aside. Add beef to skillet; brown well. Combine flour and yogurt. Mix until smooth. Add to beef in skillet along with the undiluted browning meat, 76 consommé, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, and salt. Heat and cooking rice, 79 stir until mixture comes to a boil and is thickened. Stir in the cooking pasta, 78 mushroom-onion mixture, olives, and sherry. Heat briefly. Serve beef at once with mashed potatoes, rice, or noodles. Serves 5-6

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Creative Yogurt Cooking , by Ethel Lang Graham, ©1978

177 Red Meats

These rich morsels rest well in a chafing dish on the buffet table. They are also versatile enough to stand in as a starter before an otherwise light meal or to lie beside noodles as the main dish. The nutmeg provides a delightful secret to the success of the flavor combination.

Refer to: Hearth-and-home Meatballs making bread crumbs, 56 peeling garlic, 32 mincing vegetables, 58 1/2 pound ground beef 4 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 pound ground veal 1 medium onion, very thinly cracking eggs, 48 1 pound ground pork sliced beating ingredients, 43 3/4 cup bread crumbs 1 green pepper, cut in strips measuring dry 6 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 red pepper, cut in strips ingredients, 28 2 eggs, slightly beaten 1 small tomato, skinned and grinding pepper, 54 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg coarsely chopped measuring liquid 1 teaspoon salt 2/3 cup dry white wine ingredients, 29 1 teaspoon freshly ground 2/3 cup chicken broth peeling an onion, 31 white pepper salt slicing vegetables, 66 1 cup flour freshly ground white pepper coring and seeding In a large bowl, combine the meats with the bread crumbs, 5 cloves of peppers, 25 the garlic, the eggs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Form the mixture into peeling tomatoes, 33 meatballs about the size of a walnut. Dust with flour in another smaller chopping vegetables, 45 bowl as you go. Place meatballs on a large platter, stacking them if salt and pepper to taste, 63 you need to. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Sauté the meatballs for three minutes. Fill the skillet only about 3/4 full. When they are ready combining ingredients, 46 to be turned, crowd them to one side of the skillet so you can easily tell dusting meat, 51 which ones you have already turned. Cook another 4 minutes after browning meat, 76 turning. When they are well browned on all sides, add the onion, the setting the timer, 91 remaining clove of garlic, and the peppers. Cook until the onion is wilted. Add the tomato, wine, broth, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmering ingredients, 84 simmer for about an hour. Serves 6-8

You may prepare this dish a day or two before to allow flavors to converge and settle in.

178 Red Meats

This is one of the best ideas ever for keeping messes down and spirits up. Dainty eaters will probably want to watch the others try to get their hands and mouths around these deluxe creations.

Inside-out Burgers Refer to: peeling an onion, 31 1 pound lean ground beef 12 slices jalapeño mincing vegetables, 58 1/2 cup minced onion salt and pepper to taste grating cheese, 52 1/2 cup grated cheese grilling, 96 Divide beef into 8 equal balls. Handle as little as possible. Mash out broiling meats, 89 patties as flat as you can get them without having them fall apart. In the center of 4 patties layer onion, cheese and jalapeños. Salt and pepper lightly. Use remaining 4 patties as lids. Pinch edges to hold in ingredients. Broil, pan fry or grill outside. Serve with large sesame seed buns, sliced tomatoes, lettuce, pickles, spicy mustard, and mayonnaise. Serves 4

Handling ground meat as little as possible will keep it tender. You can omit or substitute ingredients in the center, according to individual tastes. It's an easy way to keep everybody happy.

179 Red Meats

Even though this appears here, you can skewer practically anything you want, throw it on the grill, and call it "kebab." Here are some fabulous ideas.

Kebabs Equipment: Your butcher will probably give you free short wooden skewers wherever you buy your meat. Soak them in water for an hour so that they do not burn on the fire. You can also purchase metal skewers if this will be something you like to do from time to time. They come with a rack or some other apparatus to rest them on so that the meat does not stick to the grill. Always position the racks and skewers on the grill while it is cold to make sure it all fits and the lid of the pit will close. You can also prepare the grill with cooking spray while it is cold to prevent sticking.

Marinade: Since you will be putting the meat over fairly high heat, you want it as tender and moist as possible at the outset. Poultry should marinate overnight. Red meat, 2-4 hours. Fish and seafood, 1-2 hours. Vegetables and fruit do not need to marinate.

Threading the skewers: Grasp the food in one hand and pierce it with the skewer, being careful not to stab yourself. Slide the food all the way to the far end, leaving about 3 inches at either end of the skewer for handling. Do not crowd meats closely together. They need heat all around. However, tomatoes and soft foods can stand to be a little closer together since they cook so quickly. Try to vary the color, texture and flavor on each skewer.

Basting: You can baste the skewers as they cook to keep them moist. You can use the marinade for the first few minutes of cooking, but not after that. It has raw meat juices that you want to be sure are fully cooked. Some recipes call for basting with an herbed butter.

Cooking times: The redder the meat, the longer it should cook. Leave a piece of meat at the end of one of the skewers. This is your test piece to check for doneness about 10-12 minutes into the grilling.

180 Red Meats

Suggestions: Cubed beef marinated in Marinade for Beef and Pork (page 218), cherry tomatoes, whole mushrooms, squares of red and green peppers, wedges of red onion.

Cubed chicken marinated in marinade for Chicken Fajitas (page 152), Anaheim and yellow pepper squares, yellow onion wedges, cherry tomatoes.

Shrimp marinated in equal parts lime juice and olive oil, onion wedges, and lime wedges.

Cubed ham marinated in equal parts wine vinegar and orange marmalade, fresh pineapple chunks, cherries, and mango slices.

Vegetable combinations basted with an herbed butter.

Fruit combinations basted with equal parts honey and water.

181 Red Meats

One of the true comfort foods. Let a gloop of mashed potatoes sidle up, roll a spoonful of fresh peas on the side and you have a “blue plate special” from the great American diners of the 50s.

Refer to: Knock 'em Dead Meatloaf peeling an onion, 31 mincing vegetables, 58 1 pound lean ground round 1/2 cup heavy cream making bread crumbs, 56 steak 2 tablespoons catsup cracking eggs, 48 4 slices raw bacon, finely 2 tablespoons zesty mustard separating eggs, 63 shredded 2 tablespoons chopped parsley measuring liquid 1 medium onion, finely minced 1 teaspoon salt ingredients, 29 1 cup bread crumbs 1/4 teaspoon pepper washing produce, 41 1 egg yolk chopping vegetables, 45 Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients and shape into measuring dry a loaf. Place the loaf in a lightly greased pan. Pour in 1/2 cup water ingredients, 28 around the loaf. Bake 45-55 minutes. Baste every 15 minutes with the calibrating the oven, 89 pan juices. Let the loaf rest for 5 minutes before serving. combining ingredients, 46 Serves 4 greasing and flouring pans, 53 basting meats, 88 setting the timer, 91

182 Red Meats

My friend Elaine always makes everything look so effortless. She chooses dishes she can prepare in advance. She puts the final touches and composes everything with a minimum of bustle at the last minute. An elegant dish in a casual setting is one key to gracious entertaining.

Oceanside Grilled Pork Refer to: measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1 cup dry sherry 2 tablespoons white wine peeling ginger, 32 1/3 cup water vinegar mincing vegetables, 58 1/4 cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon toasted sesame peeling garlic, 32 4 tablespoons fresh ginger, oil slicing meats, 65 finely minced 1 pound fresh spinach 4 cloves garlic, minced 6 thin red onion slices, measuring dry 1 1/2 pound boneless pork loin separated into rings ingredients, 28 roast, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon toasted sesame preparing fresh spinach, 35 1/4 cup hoisin sauce seeds peeling an onion, 31 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 pound plums of varied colors, slicing vegetables, 66 2 tablespoons salad oil pitted and sliced toasting nuts, 93 marinating meats, 28 Marinate the meat: In a self-sealing plastic bag, mix together the water, sherry, soy sauce, ginger and garlic. Reserve 2 tablespoons for grilling, 96 the dressing. Place the sliced meat in the bag and seal. Turn the bag simmering ingredients, 84 several times to coat the meat. Chill for 1-2 hours. Drain meat, composing salads, 47 discarding marinade. Grill the meat until medium-rare to medium. Make the dressing: In a small saucepan stir together reserved 2 tablespoons marinade, hoisin sauce, brown sugar, salad oil and vinegar. Heat to boiling and stir in sesame oil. Remove from heat. Thinly slice meat into bite-size strips. On individual salad plates compose the salad by layering spinach, meat, onion slices, and sesame seed. Pour hot dressing over all. Arrange cold plum slices around the salad. Serve immediately. Serves 4

183 Red Meats

The long, lazy simmer allows the flavors to come through and encourages appetites to mount.

Refer to: Pepper Steak slicing meats, 65 measuring butter/ 1 1/2 pounds steak, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons soy sauce margarine, 28 in strips 1 teaspoon freshly ground peeling garlic, 32 1 teaspoon butter pepper mincing vegetables, 58 1 clove garlic, minced 1 cup beef bouillon peeling ginger, 32 2 slices fresh ginger or 1/2 2 green bell peppers, sliced in peeling an onion, 31 teaspoon ground ginger circles 3 small yellow onions, thinly 1 red bell pepper, sliced in slicing vegetables, 66 sliced circles measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Melt the butter in a pan and brown steak. Add garlic and ginger after measuring dry about a minute. Add all the remaining ingredients except the peppers ingredients, 28 to the pot. Cover and simmer on low for 6 to 8 hours. Stir occasionally. grinding pepper, 54 Add green pepper and cook 20 more minutes. Add red pepper and cook 20 more minutes. Serve over hot rice. coring and seeding peppers, 25 Serves 4-6 browning meat, 76 simmering ingredients, 84 setting the timer, 91 Make double on Sunday and have scrumptious left-overs for microwave lunches.

184 Red Meats

Picadillo is a pleasant blend of meat, vegetables and mild spices with a piquant edge. Raisins and nuts usually puzzle those people unfamiliar with the dish. They can't quite identify the source, but love it all the same. The flexibility of this Mexican tradition allows you to serve it in a variety of ways.

Picadillo Refer to: measuring dry ingredients, 28 1 pound ground round steak 1/2 red pepper, diced grinding pepper, 54 1/2 pound hot bulk sausage (can substitute 2-ounce jar salt and pepper to taste, 63 1/2 teaspoon salt chopped pimientos.) measuring liquid freshly ground pepper to taste 2 jalapeños, seeded and ingredients, 29 1/2 teaspoon cumin chopped 1 cup water 1 16-ounce can peeled peeling carrots and potatoes, 31 1 large potato, peeled and tomatoes, chopped diced 1 6-ounce can tomato paste dicing vegetables, 49 3 green onions, diced (tops 1 clove garlic, minced peeling a green onion, 30 included) 2/3 cup golden raisins coring and seeding 1/2 green bell pepper, diced 2 ounces slivered almonds peppers, 25 1/2 teaspoon oregano chopping vegetables, 45 opening cans, 59 Blend meats well by hand. Crumble into a large skillet. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cumin. Cover with water. Mix well. Simmer covered peeling garlic, 32 for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add potatoes and stir well. Cover mincing vegetables, 58 and simmer an additional 15 minutes until potatoes are tender. Add simmering ingredients, 84 remaining ingredients and mix well. Cover and simmer about 30 setting the timer, 91 minutes, stirring occasionally. grating cheese, 52 Serving suggestions: Prepare the day before a party and serve in a chafing dish with tortilla chips. Serve as a taco filling in crisp corn tortilla shells, topped with cheddar cheese and shredded lettuce. Roll up in a large white flour tortilla and serve with a salad on the side. Freeze 1/2 the recipe and pull it out for unexpected visitors or for a busy-night supper. Makes about 1/2 gallon

185 Red Meats

A tantalizing mixture of sweet, sour and spice which is excellent served over fresh linguine.

Refer to: Pitkin County Pork Chops measuring butter/ margarine, 28 peeling an onion, 31 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons packed light 1/2 cup chopped onion brown sugar chopping vegetables, 45 2-3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons Worcestershire peeling garlic, 32 1 teaspoon salt sauce mincing vegetables, 58 1/4 cup prepared mustard 6 pork chops, 1 1/2-inches thick measuring dry 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 3/4 cup ketchup ingredients, 28 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1/2 cup chili sauce measuring liquid 1/3 cup water ingredients, 29 packing brown sugar, 60 In small bowl, combine butter, onion, garlic, salt, mustard, cayenne pepper, vinegar, brown sugar and Worcestershire to make a paste. combining ingredients, 46 Spread over pork chops. Place in large baking dish and broil close to broiling meats, 89 heat for 5 minutes. Remove from oven. In small bowl, combine setting the timer, 91 ketchup, chili sauce and water; blend well. Pour sauce over chops. calibrating the oven, 89 Cover and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour or until pork is tender. Serves 6

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

186 Red Meats

Serve this simple delicacy with vermicelli and green beans on a chilly autumn evening.

Refer to: Tivoli Veal Tarragon measuring dry ingredients, 28 2 tablespoons dried tarragon 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots measuring liquid 3 tablespoons dry white wine (optional) ingredients, 29 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup chopped green onions, salt and pepper to taste, 63 salt and ground white pepper to including tops grinding pepper, 54 taste 2 tablespoons butter, softened pounding meat, 61 4 veal steaks, 3/4-inch thick, 1 cup dry white wine measuring butter/ pounded to 1/4-inch thick 1 teaspoon chicken bouillon margarine, 28 4 tablespoons butter granules peeling an onion, 31 2 cups heavy cream chopping vegetables, 45 Combine tarragon and 3 tablespoons wine; set aside. Season flour peeling a green onion, 30 with salt and white pepper. Lightly dust veal steaks with flour. In large dusting meat, 51 skillet melt butter and brown steaks on both sides. Remove veal from browning meat, 76 skillet to warm platter. Brown shallots and green onions in 2 sautéing vegetables, 83 tablespoons butter. Add 1 cup wine and reduce by half. Add chicken granules, wine-soaked tarragon and cream. Heat to boiling; reduce boiling ingredients, 76 slightly. Add juice from veal platter; mix well. Return veal to skillet and reducing ingredients, 83 warm. Serve veal topped with tarragon sauce. warming plates, 73 Serves 4

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

187 Red Meats

A truly quick meal for the mid-week rush.

Refer to: opening cans, 59 Vegetable and Beef Stir-Fry measuring dry ingredients, 28 measuring liquid 1/2 pound boneless beef sirloin 1 clove garlic, minced ingredients, 29 steak 4 green onions, cut into 1-inch peeling garlic, 32 1 10 3/4-ounce can condensed pieces mincing vegetables, 58 soup or broth (see choices on 1 cup vegetable #1 (see next peeling a green onion, 30 next page) page) 1 tablespoon cornstarch vegetable #2 (see next page) washing produce, 41 1 tablespoon soy sauce accompaniment (see next preparing broccoli and 3 tablespoons oil page) cauliflower, 34 preparing mushrooms, 37 Freeze steak 1 hour to make slicing easier. Cut steak into very thin peeling celery, 31 slices; set aside. In small bowl, combine soup, cornstarch and soy slicing vegetables, 66 sauce; whisk to blend. Set aside. In 10-inch skillet or wok over medium-high heat, place 2 tablespoons hot oil, and stir-fry beef strips peeling tomatoes, 33 and garlic until meat is browned; remove from skillet. Add remaining dicing vegetables, 49 1 tablespoon oil to skillet. Add green onions and Vegetable #1; stir fry cooking rice, 79 1 minute. Add Vegetable #2; stir-fry 30 seconds more. Return beef to cooking pasta, 78 skillet. Stir soup mixture; stir into skillet. Heat to boiling; cook 1 minute more. Spoon over chosen accompaniment. slicing meats, 65 stir-fry, 85

188 Red Meats

Choice of soup: beef broth French onion soup chicken broth chicken with rice vegetable broth

Choice of vegetable #1 fresh or frozen cut broccoli sliced mushrooms fresh asparagus tips sliced celery

Choice of vegetable #2 1 8-ounce can sliced bamboo shoots, drained 1 cup fresh tomatoes, diced 1 8-ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained 1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts 1 cup alfalfa sprouts 1 cup snow peas

Choice of accompaniment shredded lettuce hot cooked rice hot cooked noodles chow mein noodles Serves 2

Stir-fry is a marvelous way to take care of a treasure of bits and pieces and that last portion of stock in the fridge. If you know there is a particularly mad crush coming up, prepare the meat and vegetables the day before and refrigerate separately in self-sealing bags.

189 190 Vegetables

Garden vegetables, pasta, rice and beans

Contents Basmati Rice ...... 193 Black Bean Chilaquiles ...... 194 Broccoli Mushroom Noodle Casserole ...... 196 Broccoli Rice Strata with Cashews ...... 197 Eggplant Parmesan ...... 198 Fettuccine with Roasted Eggplant, Peppers, and Basil . . . . . 199 Lasagne Verdi e Bianco ...... 200 Marinated Carrot Coins ...... 201 Potato Mash ...... 202 Ratatouille ...... 203 Stuffed Chinese Cabbage ...... 204 Taste-of-the-trail Cowboy Beans ...... 206 Twice-baked Potatoes ...... 207 Yummy Yams ...... 208 Zucchini Foolishly Fried ...... 209

191 Vegetables

192 Vegetables

The nutty, aromatic quality of basmati rice superbly compliments chicken baked with herbs.

Basmati Rice

1 cup basmati rice 2 cups chicken broth 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 cups fresh or frozen peas Refer to: cooking rice, 79 Bring salted chicken broth to a boil and add rice. Stir with a fork and measuring dry reduce heat. Simmer for 20 minutes stirring twice. Add peas and stir. ingredients, 28 Remove from heat. Let rest for 5 minutes until peas are heated through. measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Serves 4-6 setting the timer, 91

Lots of things can be added to this versatile rice. Try sautéed onion, green pepper and mushrooms. It also stands alone quite well to ac­ company a headier dish, such as curry.

193 Vegetables

This version of chilaquiles layers tortillas with Black Bean Chili, cheese, and a pungent, earthy red sauce made with ground chiles and nuts. The dish is hearty and satisfying, and can be baked in a sin­ gle large casserole or individual crocks. Although all the parts can be readied well in advance, the chilaquiles are best assembled just be­ fore baking, to retain the texture of the tortillas.

Black Bean Chilaquiles

The Red Sauce

Refer to: 10-12 large cloves garlic, unpeeled 3/4 teaspoon cocoa measuring dry 2 large or 3 small pasilla chiles, for chili powder ingredients, 28 powder, or 2 to 3 tablespoons ground 1/2 teaspoon ground roasting chiles, 91 chili cinnamon peeling tomatoes, 33 2 pounds tomatoes, fresh or canned generous pinch of cloves opening cans, 59 4 tablespoons almonds or walnuts 1 teaspoon chilpotle chopping nuts, 45 2 teaspoons dried oregano purée 1 small red onion, thinly sliced salt measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1 tablespoon corn oil or vegetable oil red wine vinegar to taste peeling an onion, 31 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Roast the unpeeled cloves of garlic slicing vegetables, 66 until they are fragrant and soft inside, about 20 minutes. Set them calibrating the oven, 89 aside to cool; then remove the skins. Roast the chiles until they have peeling garlic, 32 puffed up and released their fragrance, about 4 minutes. Let them cool slightly; then remove the stems, seeds, and veins. Cut or tear them coring and seeding into pieces, and grind them to a powder in a spice mill or small blender peppers, 25 jar. Broil the tomatoes, if using fresh, turning them over, until they are using a blender, 68 soft and the skins are blistered but not charred. Purée in a blender; toasting nuts, 93 then pass them through a food mill or strainer. If you are using canned sautéing vegetables, 83 tomatoes, blend them together with their juice. Don’t wash the blend­ er, as it will be used again. Roast the nuts in a dry skillet until they are grating cheese, 52 lightly browned and somewhat crunchy. Chop them roughly; then softening tortillas, 84 grind them in a spice mill or small blender jar to make a coarse meal. draining fried foods, 79 Using the same pan, briefly toast the oregano just until it becomes fra­ layering casseroles, 55 grant; then immediately turn it out into a bowl so it doesn't scorch. Sau­ té the onion in the oil for several minutes over medium heat. Add it with covering casseroles, 47 the roasted garlic to the tomato sauce, and blend until smooth. Stir in setting the timer, 91 the ground nuts, oregano, cocoa, cinnamon, and cloves. Season to taste with the chili powder and chilpotle pepper or purée and add salt as needed. A small amount of red wine vinegar will bring up the fla­ vors.

194 Vegetables

The Chilaquiles

10-12 corn tortillas, stale or 4 ounces cheddar cheese, fresh grated 1/2 cup peanut oil, for frying 1 cup sour cream 3 cups Black Bean Chili (page cilantro sprigs, for garnish 120) salsa picante 4 ounces Monterey Jack or muenster cheese, grated

Cut the tortillas into 1-inch strips or wedges, whatever shape will work best for lining the ramekins or casserole you are using. Heat the oil in a large skillet until it is hot enough to sizzle when a piece of tortilla is dropped in. Fry the tortillas, a single layer at a time, until they are light­ ly colored, but not crisp. Set them on paper toweling to drain. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Assemble the ramekins or a large casserole beginning with a few spoonfuls of red sauce followed by a layer of tor­ tillas, half the black bean chili, a third of the cheese, and a few more spoonfuls of red sauce. Repeat the layering of tortillas, chili, cheese, and red sauce. Make a final layer of tortillas, cover with the remaining red sauce and cheese, and the sour cream. Cover and bake until heat­ ed through. If all the ingredients are still warm, 10 minutes will suffice; if the ingredients have cooled, allow up to 30 minutes for individual casseroles, 40 minutes for a single large dish. The chilaquiles will re­ main quite hot for some time out of the oven. Serve garnished with sprigs of cilantro, and accompanied by a salsa picante or tomatillo sauce. Serves 4-6

During preparation, the chiles will seem incredibly hot, but the flavors mellow into a dusky flavorfulness during baking. Even though the rec­ ipe seems somewhat advanced, any adventuresome cook wanting to try something fabulous on a long afternoon can be successful. (dds)

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

195 Vegetables

I adore the lower fat alternative! (dds)

Refer to: Broccoli Mushroom Noodle Casserole measuring butter/ margarine, 28 1 1-pound (or 12-ounce) optional: 1/4 cup dry white wine peeling an onion, 31 package wide flat egg noodles optional: 3 eggs, beaten chopping vegetables, 45 2 tablespoons butter or 3 cups (1 1/2 pounds) cottage peeling garlic, 32 margarine cheese (may be low fat) mincing vegetables, 58 2 cups onion, chopped 1 cup sour cream (may be low 3 medium cloves garlic, minced fat) or buttermilk washing produce, 41 1 large bunch fresh broccoli, 1 1/2 cups fine bread crumbs preparing broccoli and chopped and/or wheat germ cauliflower, 34 1 pound mushrooms, sliced or optional: 1 cup (packed) grated preparing mushrooms, 37 chopped medium or sharp cheddar slicing vegetables, 66 1/2 teaspoon salt (more, to grinding pepper, 54 taste) measuring dry lots of fresh black pepper ingredients, 28 measuring liquid Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter or oil a 9 x 13-inch baking pan. ingredients, 29 Cook the noodles in plenty of boiling water until about half-done. Drain and rinse under cold water. Drain again and set aside. Melt the butter cracking eggs, 48 or margarine in a large skillet, and add onions and garlic. Sauté for beating ingredients, 43 about 5 minutes over medium heat; then add broccoli, mushrooms, making bread crumbs, 56 salt, and pepper. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the broc­ grating cheese, 52 coli is bright green and just tender. Remove from heat and possibly add optional white wine. In large bowl, beat together optional eggs (or calibrating the oven, 89 not) with cottage cheese and sour cream or buttermilk. Add noodles, greasing and flouring sautéed vegetables, and 1 cup of the bread crumbs. Mix well. Spread pans, 53 into the prepared pan, and top with remaining bread crumbs and, if de­ cooking pasta, 78 sired, grated cheese. Bake covered for 30 minutes; uncovered for 15 draining ingredients, 50 minutes more. melting butter, 82 Serves 6-8 sautéing vegetables, 83 combining ingredients, 46 layering casseroles, 55 covering casseroles, 47 setting the timer, 91 Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

196 Vegetables

You'll find this a flavorful dish for buffet or potluck. (dds)

Broccoli Rice Strata with Cashews Refer to: 1 1/2 cups uncooked brown rice 1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced measuring dry 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds broccoli, cut into ingredients, 28 1 large onion, chopped florets with tough stalks peeling an onion, 31 2 large cloves garlic, minced discarded chopping vegetables, 45 1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed 1/2 cup unsalted cashews peeling garlic, 32 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 pound Gruyere cheese, mincing vegetables, 58 1 teaspoon dried oregano shredded washing produce, 41 1/2 bunch parsley, minced 1/4 cup freshly grated preparing mushrooms, 37 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced Parmesan cheese 1 pint sour cream, room coring and seeding temperature peppers, 25 preparing broccoli and Cook brown rice according to package directions. In large skillet, heat cauliflower, 34 oil and sauté onion and garlic with dill, thyme and oregano. When veg­ slicing vegetables, 66 etables are tender, add parsley, mushrooms and green pepper. Con­ grating cheese, 52 tinue cooking for 2 minutes, then stir in broccoli. Sauté until broccoli is crisp-tender. Add nuts and remove from heat. measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Spread rice over bottom of 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Cover with vege­ cooking rice, 79 table mixture. Sprinkle with both cheeses and cover with sour cream. sautéing vegetables, 83 Cover and refrigerate if made ahead. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 min­ layering casseroles, 55 utes (30 minutes if refrigerated) or until mixture is bubbling and cheese is melted. covering casseroles, 47 calibrating the oven, 89 Serves 10 setting the timer, 91

This dish can be made hours ahead.

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

197 Vegetables

Eggplant is highly absorbent, and when fried, it soaks up oil like a sponge. Because it is usually fried for Eggplant Parmesan, this dish ends up being much heavier than it needs to be. Here is a way to prepare crispy eggplant without frying—I suppose you could call it the shake-and-bake method. It is easier and much neater than fry­ ing, in addition to being lighter and better for you—and all those things you are possibly tired of hearing about. But people seem not to get tired of things tasting good, and this does taste really good.

Eggplant Parmesan

Refer to: washing produce, 41 2 medium eggplants (about 7 1/2 teaspoon each: oregano slicing vegetables, 66 inches long) and thyme measuring liquid 3/4 cup milk (more as needed) 1 batch Italian Tomato Sauce ingredients, 29 2 cups fine bread crumbs wheat (page 224) making bread crumbs, 56 germ (or a combination) 1 pound mozzarella cheese, 1 teaspoon basil thinly sliced or grated measuring dry ingredients, 28 Parmesan cheese—about 1/2 cup (amount = flexible) grating cheese, 52 calibrating the oven, 89 Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly oil a baking tray and a 9 x 13­ greasing and flouring inch pan. Cut the eggplants into slices 1/2 inch thick. Place the milk pans, 53 in a shallow bowl; combine bread crumbs (wheat germ) with herbs on setting the timer, 91 a plate. Dip each eggplant slice in the milk, moistening both sides, then coat it thoroughly with the crumb mixture. Spread the prepared layering casseroles, 55 slices on the baking tray and the pan, and bake until tender (about 20 to 30 minutes). Remove from oven, and pile them gently on the baking tray. Without cleaning the 9 x 13-inch pan, ladle some tomato sauce into the bottom. Add a layer of eggplant slices, and cover with more sauce. Arrange some mozzarella over the sauce, then repeat the lay­ ering until you run out of something or you run out of room, whichever comes first. Generously sprinkle the top with Parmesan. Bake uncov­ ered at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes, or until heated through and bubbly around the edges. Remove from oven and let sit about 10 min­ utes before serving. Serve hot or warm. Serves 6-8

This dish freezes quite well if there is plenty of sauce to cover and pro­ tect the eggplant from freezer burn. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

198 Vegetables

We often make eggplant pastas at the Greens with eggplant that has been fried in oil, then cut into strips; but in this version the small oriental eggplants are roasted whole, shredded, and marinated in olive oil with garlic and basil. While the color is not as pretty as in the fried version, the meat itself is soft and succulent, and absorbs the pure flavor of the oil beautifully. Toasted bread crumbs give the dish some crunch.

Fettuccine with Roasted Eggplant, Peppers, and Basil Refer to: 8 ounces fresh egg pasta 1/2 cup basil leaves, coarsely washing produce, 41 1 to 1 1/2 pounds Japanese chopped measuring liquid eggplants salt and pepper ingredients, 29 6 tablespoons virgin or extra 2 bell peppers, red or yellow peeling garlic, 32 virgin olive oil 1 cup coarse bread crumbs chopping vegetables, 45 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped balsamic vinegar to taste pitting olives, 33 20 Niçoise or Gaeta olives, Parmesan or Romano cheese salt and pepper to taste, 63 pitted and chopped coring and seeding Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prick the eggplants in several plac­ peppers, 25 es, and bake them until they are wrinkled and soft, about 20 minutes. making bread crumbs, 56 Turn them once halfway through. Let the eggplants cool a few min­ grating cheese, 52 utes; then slit them open and peel away the skins. Shred or tear the calibrating the oven, 89 eggplants into pieces, and combine them with the olive oil, garlic, ol­ ives, and half the basil. Season with salt and freshly ground black roasting chiles, 91 pepper, and set aside. Roast the peppers over the flame or in a very tossing ingredients, 67 hot oven and scrape off the skins. Cut them into strips about 1/4 inch cooking pasta, 78 wide, and add them to the eggplant. Toss the bread crumbs with setting the timer, 91 enough oil to moisten them, then toast them in the hot oven until they are crisp and golden. When you are ready to cook the pasta, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Transfer the eggplant and peppers to a wide skillet, and warm them very gently over low heat. Salt the water, cook the pasta, scoop it out, and add it to the vegetables. Add the rest of the basil leaves, toss well with a pair of tongs, and season to taste with salt, freshly ground pepper and vinegar. Garnish each plate with the bread crumbs, and pass around grated cheese. Serves 2-4

If available, plum-colored opal basil adds both color and flavor.

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

199 Vegetables

This variation of a classic dish maintains its own clearly established character. It is richly laced with tomato béchamel, spinach and a creamy cheese mixture.

Lasagne Verdi e Bianco

Refer to: peeling an onion, 31 2 medium onions, finely 4 green onions, minced chopping vegetables, 45 chopped 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten 1/4 cup butter 3 tablespoons minced fresh measuring butter/ 3 cloves garlic, minced parsley margarine, 28 1/2 cup chopped almonds 3 tablespoons minced fresh peeling garlic, 32 5 10-ounce packages frozen basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil mincing vegetables, 58 spinach, thawed and 2 cups shredded mozzarella chopping nuts, 45 squeezed dry cheese draining frozen spinach, 27 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 cups freshly grated measuring dry ingredients, 28 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground Parmesan cheese washing produce, 41 black pepper 3/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 8 ounces lasagna noodles, peeling a green onion, 30 1/3 cup raisins cooked al dente and drained grinding pepper, 54 16 ounces ricotta cheese separating eggs, 63 beating ingredients, 43 Prepare Herbed Tomato Béchamel Sauce (page 223); set aside. In grating cheese, 52 large skillet, sauté onion in butter until brown and caramelized, about 25 minutes. Stir in garlic and almonds and cook about 30 seconds. sautéing vegetables, 83 Mix in spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until dry. Remove from cooking pasta, 78 heat and add salt, pepper and nutmeg. Blend in raisins and set aside. combining ingredients, 46 In medium bowl, combine ricotta, green onions, egg yolk, parsley and whisking ingredients, 74 basil and blend well. In another medium bowl, combine mozzarella, greasing and flouring Parmesan and Swiss cheeses. Set aside 1 1/4 cup of shredded pans, 53 cheese mixture for topping. Whisk through béchamel sauce several layering casseroles, 55 times to lighten. Spread thin layer of sauce over bottom of generously calibrating the oven, 89 greased 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Layer the following ingredients in or­ der at least 3 times: pasta, spinach mixture, ricotta-herb mixture and setting the timer, 91 cheese mixture. Finish with layer of lasagna noodles. Pour remaining sauce over lasagna and sprinkle with reserved cheese. Bake at 375 degrees for 45-60 minutes or until bubbly and lightly browned. Turn off heat; let lasagna sit in oven for 20 minutes before cutting. Serves 10-12

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

200 Vegetables

Carolanne shares this recipe with friends after many a picnic. Sweet, tart and pungent flavors blend to bring out the best of a carrot.

Marinated Carrot Coins

Refer to: 6 cups steamed carrots, sliced 1/2 cup vegetable oil peeling carrots and 1 large onion, thinly sliced and 1/2 cup wine vinegar potatoes, 31 pulled apart 1 teaspoon prepared mustard steaming vegetables, 85 1 10-ounce can condensed 1 teaspoon Worcestershire peeling an onion, 31 tomato soup sauce slicing vegetables, 66 1 cup sugar salt to taste opening cans, 59 Mix all ingredients except carrots and onions. Place carrots and on­ measuring dry ions in a self-sealing plastic bag. Pour marinade over them and seal. ingredients, 28 Marinate in refrigerator overnight turning several times to coat. measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Serves 8 salt and pepper to taste, 63

Try a red onion for variation.

201 Vegetables

One of the true comfort foods, mashed potatoes were never better.

Potato Mash

Refer to: 2 large russet potatoes, peeled, 1/2 stick butter peeling carrots and quartered and sliced 1/3 cup cream potatoes, 31 1 medium leek, white part only, salt and pepper to taste quartering potatoes, 62 sliced fresh chives, chopped for slicing vegetables, 66 garnish preparing leeks, 36 measuring butter/ Have a pot of fresh, cold water handy to put the potato cubes in as you margarine, 28 go. This keeps them from turning brown. The water should generous­ ly cover the potatoes when you are finished. Bring the potatoes and measuring liquid leeks to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Spear a ingredients, 29 piece of potato and test for doneness. It should be completely cooked simmering ingredients, 84 and not very firm. Drain the potatoes into a colander and put into the salt and pepper to taste, 63 food processor bowl. Add butter, cream, salt and pepper. Whip until draining ingredients, 50 completely creamy. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with chopped, fresh chives. using a food processor, 69 chopping vegetables, 45 Serves 4-6

A hand mixer will work perfectly for this dish. Make sure all ingredients are well blended and whipped to perfection.

202 Vegetables

A Mediterranean vegetable stew in less than an hour.

Ratatouille

3 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon rosemary Refer to: 4 medium cloves garlic 1/2 teaspoon thyme measuring liquid 2 cups onion, chopped 1 medium (6- to 7-inch) ingredients, 29 1 bay leaf zucchini, cubed peeling garlic, 32 1 medium eggplant (7 to 8 2 medium bell peppers, in strips inches long; 4- to 5-inch fresh black pepper peeling an onion, 31 diameter), cubed 1 14 1/2-ounce can tomatoes chopping vegetables, 45 1 1/2 teaspoons salt freshly minced parsley washing produce, 41 1 1/2 teaspoons basil (optional) slicing vegetables, 66 1 teaspoon marjoram or minced olives grinding pepper, 54 oregano measuring dry ingredients, 28 For Spicy Variation: omit bay leaf, marjoram, rosemary, add in their place: mincing vegetables, 58 pitting olives, 33 1 1/2 teaspoon cumin 2 teaspoons chili powder coring and seeding cayenne to taste peppers, 25 (optional): add 1 cup pitted, sliced oil-cured olives slicing vegetables, 66 opening cans, 59 Heat olive oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven. Add garlic, onion, and sautéing vegetables, 83 bay leaf, and sauté over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add egg­ plant, salt, and herbs, and stir. Cover and cook over medium heat, setting the timer, 91 stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the eggplant is soft. simmering ingredients, 84 Add zucchini, bell pepper, black pepper, and tomatoes. (Break the to­ matoes into smaller pieces with a spoon.) Cover and simmer for about 10 more minutes, or until the zucchini and bell pepper are tender. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature—plain, or topped with pars­ ley and/or olives. Serves 4-6 I prefer this dish at room temperature with a bland rice. For an even heartier dish, use the vegetables as a bed for slivered sausage or poached eggs. The version of caponata has added celery, capers, and olives. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

203 Vegetables

In this recipe, the head of cabbage is left whole and the stuffing is placed between the individual leaves. When selecting your cabbage, try to find one that is squat rather than elongated. We like to serve this dish as our main course with spinach fettuccine, dressed only with unsalted butter and salt, with pots of jalapeño relish and home­ made yogurt. The yogurt tempers the relish.

Stuffed Chinese Cabbage

Refer to: 1 1/2- to 2-pound Chinese 1/2 cup canned tomatoes, after washing produce, 41 cabbage draining (reserve one cup measuring dry 1 cup brown rice juice— see below) ingredients, 28 1 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup chopped canned peeling an onion, 31 1 medium onion Colorado peppers, or any hot chopping vegetables, 45 4 large cloves garlic green peppers, in brine peeling garlic, 32 1 pound small, fresh 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground mushrooms dried hot red pepper mincing vegetables, 58 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup chicken stock preparing mushrooms, 37 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup juice from the drained measuring butter/ 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground tomatoes margarine, 28 black pepper 1/4 cup dry white wine measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Wash and drain the cabbage, discarding any outer leaves that are grinding pepper, 54 blemished. Keep the head intact and trim the stem so that it is flush opening cans, 59 with the leaves. Do not core. Tie the cabbage around the middle with a piece of kitchen twine so the leaves will not come apart while steam­ steaming vegetables, 85 ing. Steam the cabbage for 10 minutes, just so that it wilts. Have at setting the timer, 91 least two inches of water in the bottom of the pot and place the cab­ cooking rice, 79 bage upright in the colander above the water level. Cover while sautéing vegetables, 83 steaming. While the cabbage is steaming, lay a cotton dish towel on an area of your work surface. Cut two lengths of twine that will fit braising ingredients, 88 around the cabbage and lay them crosswise on the towel. Lift the col­ warming plates, 73 ander with the steamed cabbage from the pot and immediately refresh tossing ingredients, 67 the cabbage under cold, running water. This will stop the cooking pro­ reducing ingredients, 83 cess and retain the color of the cabbage. Very carefully spread the cabbage out on the towel with the center core of the cabbage placed where the twines cross. One by one, open up the leaves of the cabbage until they are fanned out from the center. Let the cabbage remain on the towel as you prepare the stuffing. In a small saucepan, bring the rice to a boil with 2 cups of water and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the water has evaporated, occasionally tossing with a fork to separate the grains. This will take 20 minutes. Set aside, still covered.

204 Vegetables

Peel and chop the onion fine. Peel and mince the garlic. Cut away the ends of the mushroom stems. Wipe the mushrooms with damp paper towels to clean and then cut them into thin slices. In a skillet heat the butter and olive oil. Add the onion and garlic. Sauté over me­ dium heat until the onions have wilted. Add the mushrooms and turn the heat to medium-high. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Toss and sauté quickly until the mushrooms have given up their liquid and have begun to brown. Add the tomatoes, Colorado peppers and the 1/2 teaspoon of hot red pepper. Toss just to mix. Remove from the heat and add the reserved rice. Toss again. To stuff the cabbage, work from the inside leaves to the outside. Us­ ing a tablespoon, place some of the stuffing under each leaf, close to the core. As you add stuffing, fold the leaves over toward the center so that when all the stuffing has been used, you will have a compact ball of cabbage. This is much easier to do than you would perhaps think, as the leaves are quite resilient. Bring the strings to the center of the cabbage and tie loosely. The strings will not only hold the cab­ bage together while braising, but are useful for lifting the cabbage. In a deep casserole large enough to hold the cabbage, bring the chick­ en stock, the leftover juice from the tomatoes and the dry white wine to a boil. lower the cabbage into the liquid and reduce the heat so the liquid remains at a simmer. Cover and braise the cabbage for 30 min­ utes, basting frequently with the liquid, During this time begin warming your serving platter. To serve the cabbage, lift it by its strings to a serving platter. Cut the twine and remove it. Surround the cabbage with the buttered fettuccine. Quickly reduce the braising liquid to one cup by bringing it to a rapid boil. Pour over the cabbage and fettuc­ cine. Cut the cabbage as you would a cake, giving each guest a gen­ erous portion with the fettuccine alongside. Pass the jalapeño relish and yogurt separately. Serves 4-6

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

205 Vegetables

We argued for years over whose beans were the best. These finally won; I just can't say whose they were.

Taste-of-the-trail Cowboy Beans

Refer to: 2 cups dried pinto beans 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning sorting and soaking 7 cups cold water 2 cloves garlic, minced beans, 40 salt and pepper to taste 1 dried red pepper, cut in half measuring liquid 1 teaspoon oregano 2 bay leaves ingredients, 29 1 teaspoon dried cilantro salt and pepper to taste, 63 measuring dry Sort beans and soak overnight in water. Change water and boil ingredients, 28 beans for 5 minutes. Lower heat and continue to simmer for 4-6 hours with salt, pepper, oregano, cilantro, Italian seasoning, garlic, dried red peeling garlic, 32 pepper and bay leaves. Extract bay and pepper skin. Mash a few mincing vegetables, 58 beans into the broth to thicken it. coring and seeding peppers, 25 Serves 8 boiling ingredients, 76 simmering ingredients, 84 simmering ingredients, 84 Beans and cornbread combine to make a complete protein, so there is no need to add meat.

206 Vegetables

Save your family all the mess and muss of buttering and topping their potatoes.

Twice-baked Potatoes Refer to: 2 large Idaho potatoes salt and pepper to taste washing produce, 41 oil 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, calibrating the oven, 89 1/2 stick butter grated setting the timer, 91 1/3 cup sour cream fresh chives, chopped measuring butter/ margarine, 28 Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub potatoes well and pat dry. Pierce each potato twice with a fork. Very lightly oil each potato and place on measuring liquid a baking sheet. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for one hour. Re­ ingredients, 29 move and place on a cutting board. The potatoes will automatically salt and pepper to taste, 63 find their resting place. With mitted hands, turn the potato 90 degrees grating cheese, 52 up on its side and slice in half lengthwise. Hold the potato half in one mitted hand and a spoon in the other. Gently coax the potato out of its skin one spoonful at a time. Try not to press too hard on the skin so that it breaks. Leave about 1/4 inch of potato in the skin. Put the potato meat into a bowl and add butter, sour cream, salt and pepper. Blend thoroughly. Return to the potato skin. Top with cheese and chives. Return to the oven to heat through and melt cheese, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 4

Add other creative things to the stuffing, like broccoli, cubed ham, or asparagus. Using foil in the baking draws the moisture out and shriv­ els the skin. Have the potatoes assembled and ready to roll. Just pop them in the oven to heat through. If you cover them very well, you can even do these the day before.

207 Vegetables

Strictly speaking, these are not true yams, but we are bucking gener­ ations of Thanksgivings in my family if we called them anything else.

Yummy Yams

Refer to: washing produce, 41 5 large sweet potatoes 1 teaspoon cinnamon oil 1/4 freshly grated nutmeg peeling carrots and potatoes, 31 6 tablespoons butter 1/8 teaspoon cloves 1/2 cup pure maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon salt measuring butter/ 1/3 cup Curaçao 1/4 freshly ground pepper margarine, 28 1/4 cup bourbon melting butter, 82 measuring liquid Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Scrub potatoes and pat dry. Pierce ingredients, 29 them with a fork and rub them very lightly with oil. Place on a baking measuring dry sheet and bake for 40 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool ingredients, 28 for 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 350 degrees. Peel the potatoes and grinding pepper, 54 slice them into 1/2 inch rounds. In a small saucepan, melt 4 table­ spoons of the butter. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a calibrating the oven, 89 boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Place 1/3 of the pota­ setting the timer, 91 toes in a 3 quart glass casserole dish with a cover. Pour 1/3 of the boiling ingredients, 76 sauce over them. Repeat twice. Cover and bake for 20 minutes. Re­ simmering ingredients, 84 move and stir the potatoes, mashing them slightly. Dot remaining 2 tablespoons butter on top and bake uncovered for 10 more minutes. layering casseroles, 55 covering casseroles, 47 Serves 8-10

If you are serving these for a holiday dinner, you may prepare them the day before. Stop short of the last baking. Since they will come cold from the refrigerator, bake them 25 minutes instead of 10.

208 Vegetables

This dish gets its name from the long-ago Los Tres Bobos Restau­ rant where we first tried this dish over 20 years ago. Attempts to du­ plicate the flavors have resulted in this somewhat different version. Alternating batters and frying quickly make the zucchini light and not too oily. Serve as a starter or as a side dish.

Zucchini Foolishly Fried Refer to: 3 cups flour 1/3 cup biscuit mix measuring dry 1 cup biscuit mix 1 cup water ingredients, 28 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon ground oregano cracking eggs, 48 2 teaspoons pepper 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt measuring liquid 2 eggs 12 zucchini squash ingredients, 29 1 cup buttermilk washing produce, 41 slicing vegetables, 66 Mix flour, 1 cup biscuit mix, salt and pepper. In separate bowl combine eggs, buttermilk, 1/3 cup biscuit mix, water, oregano and garlic salt. frying ingredients, 81 Cut ends off squash and slice lengthwise into 1/8 inch-slices. Dip first into dry mix, then in egg and milk batter and again into dry mix. Fry until golden brown in oil heated to 375 degrees, about 30 seconds. Serves 10-12

These delectable morsels are for the moment. They do not freeze, keep, or even reheat well.

209 210 Condiments

Sauces, gravies, marinades and dressings

Contents Adobe Butter ...... 213 Apricot Sweet and Sour Sauce . . . . . 214 Basic Tomato Sauce for Pizza ...... 215 Basil Dressing ...... 216 Basil Pesto ...... 217 Beer Marinade for Beef or Pork . . . . . 218 Caramel Sauce for Dipping Fruit . . . . 219 Cranberry Chutney ...... 220 Creamy Mustard Dressing ...... 221 East Texas Barbecue Sauce ...... 222 Herbed Tomato Béchamel Sauce . . . 223 Italian Tomato Sauce ...... 224 Microwave White Sauce and Cheese Sauce ...... 225 Stir-fry Sauce for Meats and Vegetables ...... 226 Turkey Gravy ...... 227

211 Condiments

212 Condiments

The tangy lime juice and spices come together pleasantly to give your corn-on-the-cob a Southwest flare.

Adobe Butter

Refer to: 4 tablespoons butter 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1/4 teaspoon oregano leaves measuring butter/ 1 green onion, including tops, scant pinch cayenne pepper margarine, 28 diced freshly ground white pepper juicing citrus fruits, 54 1/2 teaspoon salt peeling a green onion, 30 dicing vegetables, 49 Melt butter in a small bowl in the microwave for two minutes. Add measuring dry remaining ingredients and stir well. Serve on corn-on-the-cob. ingredients, 28 Makes 3/4 cup grinding pepper, 54 melting butter, 82 combining ingredients, 46 If you really want to get fancy, wrap a piece of lettuce around a large toothpick or small wooden skewer. Secure with thread. Each person gets one of these "vegetable paint brushes" to spread the hot butter on the corn cob.

213 Condiments

Just the right balance of flavors for Sesame Cashew Chicken, won- tons, or appetizer-sized chicken legs. (dds)

Apricot Sweet and Sour Sauce

Refer to: 18-ounce jar sugar-free apricot 1 tablespoon low-sodium soy measuring liquid conserves sauce ingredients, 29 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon horseradish or peeling garlic, 32 3 tablespoons catsup Dijon mustard mincing vegetables, 58 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 1/2 clove garlic, minced combining ingredients, 46 (optional) Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Serve at room temperature. Makes 2 cups

This sauce keeps well in the refrigerator for two weeks. (dds)

Reprinted from Delitefully HealthMark by Susan Stevens, copyright ©1989, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

214 Condiments

This is a good light base sauce for pizza because it is just the right thickness, and its flavorings will not overwhelm other toppings.

Basic Tomato Sauce for Pizza Refer to: opening cans, 59 1 can (28 ounces) Italian-style 4 fresh basil leaves or 1 peeling garlic, 32 tomato purée teaspoon dried mincing vegetables, 58 1 large clove garlic, minced 1 bay leaf measuring dry 1 teaspoon dried oregano or freshly ground black pepper, to ingredients, 28 marjoram taste washing produce, 41 Place all the ingredients in a 3-quart saucepan. Cover and bring to a grinding pepper, 54 boil. Uncover, lower the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, 30 boiling ingredients, 76 minutes. simmering ingredients, 84 Makes 3 cups (enough for two 12-inch pizzas) setting the timer, 91

This sauce may be made ahead and frozen.

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

215 Condiments

This rich dressing has a heady herbal aroma which flavors bland pasta dishes fabulously. (dds)

Basil Dressing

Refer to: washing produce, 41 1 cup packed fresh basil leaves 3-4 tablespoons fresh lemon measuring liquid 2 tablespoons virgin olive oil juice ingredients, 29 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed salt and freshly ground black peeling garlic, 32 1/2 cup virgin olive oil pepper to taste mincing vegetables, 58 In food processor, purée basil leaves, 2 tablespoons olive oil and garlic juicing citrus fruits, 54 to a paste. Add 1/2 cup olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. salt and pepper to taste, 63 Process until well blended. grinding pepper, 54 Makes 1 cup using a food processor, 69 puréeing ingredients, 62 Best when served last-minute fresh. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

216 Condiments

If only once in a lifetime, you must try making this with a mortar and pestle. I harvest fresh basil from my plants several times during the summer to make pesto and freeze it in 1/2 cup portions. There's nothing quite like the fresh taste of summer in the dead of winter.

Basil Pesto

2 cups fresh basil leaves 1/4 cup pine nuts Refer to: 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1/2 teaspoon salt washing produce, 41 1/4 cup virgin olive oil freshly ground black pepper to measuring dry 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese taste ingredients, 28 peeling garlic, 32 Place basil and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. With the motor measuring liquid running, drizzle oil slowly through the food tube. Process until ingredients, 29 ingredients are puréed. Add remaining ingredients and pulse a few times to blend. salt and pepper to taste, 63 grinding pepper, 54 Suggestions for using pesto: using a food processor, 69 Toss 1/2 cup with 9 ounces fresh pasta. Drizzle 1-2 tablespoons over pizza sauce before adding toppings. Add 1/4 cup to minestrone during last 10 minutes of simmering. Makes 1/2 cup

Pesto freezes well. I had a friend suggest I freeze it in an ice cube tray for portions. It ruins the tray for any other use, but really does the trick.

217 Condiments

This marinade imparts a distinct flavor to beef or pork. Once marinated, the meats can then be broiled or grilled.

Beer Marinade for Beef or Pork

Refer to: 1 1/2 cups flat beer 2 cloves garlic, split measuring liquid 1/2 cup light oil 1 tablespoon dry mustard ingredients, 29 1/4 cup orange marmalade 1 teaspoon ground ginger juicing citrus fruits, 54 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt peeling garlic, 32 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 cloves slicing vegetables, 66 1 tablespoon honey 1 dash hot pepper sauce measuring dry Combine all ingredients and pour into a self-sealing plastic bag. Slice ingredients, 28 or cube meats according to desired use and place in bag. Marinate for combining ingredients, 46 2-4 hours. slicing meats, 65 Makes 2 cups marinating meats, 28

Marinades partially cook meat, which reduces normal cooking times.

218 Condiments

Quite the delightful touch for brunch or dessert and ready in a flash.

Caramel Sauce for Dipping Fruit

Refer to: 8 ounces cream cheese 1 teaspoon vanilla extract measuring dry 1/4 cup white sugar 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon ingredients, 28 1/4 cup packed dark brown scant pinch nutmeg packing brown sugar, 60 sugar measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Blend all ingredients in a blender or food processor. Serve with sturdy fresh fruit such as apple slices, pear slices or strawberry halves. using a blender, 68 Makes 1 1/2 cup

219 Condiments

Chutneys provide a pungent companion for meats and vegetables. This one is stellar on the Thanksgiving table alongside The Turkey.

Cranberry Chutney

Refer to: 2 cups fresh cranberries, halved 1/2 cup molasses slicing vegetables, 66 3 slices canned pineapple, 1 cup wine vinegar opening cans, 59 diced 1 teaspoon curry powder dicing vegetables, 49 6 dried peaches, snipped small 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1/2 cup coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon ground cloves chopping vegetables, 45 crystallized ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon measuring dry 1/2 cup dark raisins 1 teaspoon salt ingredients, 28 1/2 cup sliced blanched measuring liquid almonds ingredients, 29 boiling ingredients, 76 In a bowl, combine cranberries, pineapple, peaches, ginger, raisins setting the timer, 91 and almonds. In a 2-quart saucepan, stir together remaining simmering ingredients, 84 ingredients and bring to boil. Simmer-boil 10 minutes, remove from heat and stir in cranberry mixture. Bring to rapid boil for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cover; let stand several hours, to merge the flavors. Makes 1 quart

Refrigerated, chutney keeps indefinitely.

220 Condiments

Tangy meets creamy to sit atop a spinach salad. (dds)

Creamy Mustard Dressing

Refer to: 2 hard cooked eggs, mashed 1 clove garlic, crushed boiling and peeling eggs, 75 with fork while still warm 1/2 cup virgin olive oil measuring dry 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ingredients, 28 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar 5 tablespoons heavy cream grinding pepper, 54 1 tablespoon coarsely ground 1/4 cup red wine vinegar peeling garlic, 32 black pepper mincing vegetables, 58 One at a time and in order, thoroughly blend all other ingredients into measuring liquid mashed eggs. Do not substitute. When blended, whisk until smooth. ingredients, 29 Makes 1 cup whisking ingredients, 74

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

221 Condiments

Dana passed this recipe on to each of her five sons, whose families have adapted it to their own tastes. I have had to write out this recipe at the request of guests after many a backyard party.

East Texas Barbecue Sauce

Refer to: 1 10-ounce can tomato soup, 1/4 to 1/2 cup packed brown opening cans, 59 undiluted sugar measuring liquid 1 soup can of catsup 3 tablespoons Worcestershire ingredients, 29 1/2 to 1 soup can of vinegar, any sauce measuring butter/ flavor 3 tablespoons Tabasco sauce margarine, 28 1/2 stick butter or margarine salt and pepper to taste packing brown sugar, 60 salt and pepper to taste, 63 Combine all ingredients in small saucepan. Heat gently to a simmer for 10 minutes. Use for outdoor grills or oven barbecuing on any kind combining ingredients, 46 of meat. simmering ingredients, 84 Makes 2 cups finding the spoon in the pot, 80

If you are using this as a table sauce as well, save back a portion before starting the grilling process. This keeps raw meat juices from permeating the sauce for table use.

222 Condiments

This sauce is a delightful, rich beginning for lasagna or other pasta dishes. (dds)

Herbed Tomato Béchamel Sauce Refer to: 1/4 cup butter 1 10 1/2-ounce can tomato measuring butter/ 1/4 cup all-purpose flour purée margarine, 28 3 tablespoons minced fresh 3 egg yolks measuring dry basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil 1/4 teaspoon salt ingredients, 28 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground measuring liquid pinch dried oregano black pepper ingredients, 29 2 cups milk 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg washing produce, 41 1 tablespoon butter, softened opening cans, 59 cracking eggs, 48 In large saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat until bubbly. Remove from heat and whisk in flour, basil, thyme and oregano. separating eggs, 63 Cook, stirring constantly, about 3-5 minutes. Do not let flour brown. grinding pepper, 54 Gradually whisk in milk. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, melting butter, 82 stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Stir in tomato purée. Remove whisking ingredients, 74 from heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Whisk in egg yolks, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Transfer to bowl and spread softened butter over sauce setting the timer, 91 to prevent skin from forming. Makes 3 1/2 cups

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

223 Condiments

The classic red sauce, without meat, and with 2 variations. Use any version of this in lasagne, in eggplant parmesan, or on pasta of any size or shape.

Refer to: Italian Tomato Sauce measuring liquid 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 1-pound 13-ounce can ingredients, 29 2 cups onion, chopped tomatoes peeling an onion, 31 1 medium-sized bell pepper, 1 6-ounce can tomato paste chopping vegetables, 45 diced 1 tablespoon honey coring and seeding 2 teaspoons basil lots of black pepper peppers, 25 1 teaspoon oregano 4 to 6 large cloves garlic, dicing vegetables, 49 1 teaspoon thyme minced measuring dry 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 cup freshly minced parsley ingredients, 28 opening cans, 59 Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or kettle. Add onion, bell pepper, herbs, and salt, and sauté over medium heat until the onion is very soft grinding pepper, 54 (8 to 10 minutes). Add tomatoes, tomato paste, honey, and black peeling garlic, 32 pepper. Use a spoon to break up the tomatoes into bite-sized pieces. mincing vegetables, 58 Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, partially covered, for 20 to washing produce, 41 30 minutes. Add garlic, and cook about 10 minutes more. At this point, the sauce can sit for up to several hours, or be refrigerated for sautéing vegetables, 83 up to a week. Heat gently before serving, and add parsley at the last setting the timer, 91 minute. simmering ingredients, 84 finding the spoon in the For a marinara variation, add: pot, 80 2 medium stalks celery, minced peeling celery, 31 1 pound mushrooms, chopped preparing mushrooms, 37 1 to 2 medium (6-inch) zucchini, diced 2 to 3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, chopped preparing broccoli and a handful of fresh basil leaves, chopped cauliflower, 34 Add with first step. Sauté until all vegetables are tender. peeling tomatoes, 33 For a cavolflore variation, add: 1 large cauliflower, in 1-inch florets Steam until tender. Add to second step, simmer. Makes 5 cups

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

224 Condiments

Using the microwave makes this preparation fool-proof.

Microwave White Sauce and Cheese Sauce Refer to: 2 tablespoons butter 1/8 teaspoon salt measuring butter/ 2 tablespoons flour freshly ground pepper margarine, 28 1 cup milk measuring dry ingredients, 28 Microwave butter in covered dish 30-45 seconds. Whisk in flour, whisk measuring liquid in milk. Add salt and pepper. Microwave 1 minute. Stir. Microwave ingredients, 29 2 more minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. grinding pepper, 54 For cheese sauce, add 1/2 cup shredded cheddar or other cheese and whisking ingredients, 74 microwave for 1 minute before letting it stand. grating cheese, 52 Makes 1 cup using the microwave oven, 72 setting the timer, 91

225 Condiments

Healthy, simple and versatile.

Stir-fry Sauce for Meats and Vegetables

Refer to: measuring dry 1 tablespoon cornstarch or 3 medallions fresh ginger root or ingredients, 28 arrowroot 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger measuring liquid 3 tablespoons cold water 2 cloves garlic, minced ingredients, 29 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 green onion with tops, sliced peeling ginger, 32 2 tablespoons sesame or slicing vegetables, 66 peanut oil peeling garlic, 32 Whisk cornstarch and cold water. Add soy sauce and ground ginger mincing vegetables, 58 root at this point if not using fresh. Heat oil to very hot, but not peeling a green onion, 30 scorching. Stir-fry fresh ginger, garlic and onion for 2 minutes. whisking ingredients, 74 Continue with selected recipe by adding seafood, meats or vegetables in descending order of firmness. stir-fry, 85 setting the timer, 91 Makes enough for 4 sir-fry portions

If you are using meats, marinate the pieces in a little of the soy sauce/ cornstarch mixture and stir-fry a few minutes before adding vegetables. Small pieces of chicken or shrimp with added lemon in the soy are yummy with broccoli, baby ears of corn, snow peas, water chestnuts and cashews for a bit of crunch.

226 Condiments

Every holiday meal, peals of "Who knows how to do the gravy?" ring out. It's just a matter of proportions and a little technique...not hard at all!

Turkey Gravy Refer to: 4 tablespoons pan drippings 1 1/2 cups chicken stock measuring liquid from turkey roaster salt and pepper to taste ingredients, 29 4 tablespoons flour measuring dry ingredients, 28 Using the baster you used during roasting, extract the pan drippings salt and pepper to taste, 63 from underneath the fats. Remove to a small saucepan. Sprinkle with simmering ingredients, 84 flour and simmer for 5 minutes. Add hot chicken broth all at once, setting the timer, 91 stirring constantly. Heat thoroughly. Salt and pepper to taste. Pour into gravy boat. Makes 2 cups

If you would like a cream gravy, add 1 cup light cream at the same time you are adding the chicken broth.

227 228 Dairy Case

Eggs and cheese

Contents Artichoke and Potato Frittata ...... 231 Casserole Eggs Sardou ...... 232 Creole Egg Salad Sandwich ...... 234 Garlic Cheese Grits ...... 235 Nutty Cheese Calzone ...... 236 Omelets Made Easy ...... 237 Pasta Sauce with Three Cheeses . . . 238 Quesadillas ...... 239 Quiche the Cook! ...... 240

229 Dairy Case

230 Dairy Case

This frittata of artichoke hearts and potatoes also features creamy fresh mozzarella and the sweet nuttiness of Parmesan.

Artichoke and Potato Frittata

Refer to: 1/2 cup (6 to 8) artichoke hearts 3 eggs draining ingredients, 50 (thawed if frozen), drained 1/4 teaspoon salt measuring liquid 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons shredded fresh ingredients, 29 1 small potato, cooked and mozzarella cheese peeling carrots and cubed 1 tablespoon freshly grated potatoes, 31 1 teaspoon minced fresh Parmesan cheese boiling ingredients, 76 rosemary leaves chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) washing produce, 41 salt and freshly ground black parsley, for garnish pepper, to taste mincing vegetables, 58 salt and pepper to taste, 63 Bring a small saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil, and add the grinding pepper, 54 artichoke hearts. Lower the heat and simmer for 3 minutes; then rinse, cracking eggs, 48 drain, and pat dry. Set them aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 10-inch flameproof skillet (preferably nonstick). Add the potato and grating cheese, 52 rosemary, and and sauté until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Add chopping vegetables, 45 the artichoke hearts and sauté until golden, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle simmering ingredients, 84 with a pinch of salt and pepper, and set aside. Preheat the broiler. setting the timer, 91 Lightly beat the eggs with the 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the same skillet. Pour in the sautéing vegetables, 83 eggs and cook, over medium-low heat, stirring lightly, just until the calibrating the oven, 89 bottom is set, 3 to 4 minutes. The top should still be wet. Add the beating ingredients, 43 artichokes and potatoes; sprinkle with the cheeses. Place the skillet broiling meats, 89 under the broiler and cook until the frittata is golden and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley, and serve immediately. Serves 1-2

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

231 Dairy Case

An aromatic centerpiece to a complex brunch menu. This recipe is truly worth the effort, and your friends will thank you. (dds)

Casserole Eggs Sardou (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast) Refer to: Artichoke Layer measuring butter/ margarine, 28 peeling an onion, 31 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) 2 9-ounce packages frozen unsalted butter artichoke hearts chopping vegetables, 45 1 cup finely chopped onion 1/2 teaspoon salt peeling a green onion, 30 1 cup sliced scallions 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground slicing vegetables, 66 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic pepper peeling garlic, 32 1 10-ounce package frozen 12 hard-cooked eggs, peeled mincing vegetables, 58 chopped spinach, thawed and draining frozen spinach, 27 squeezed dry measuring dry Melt butter in a 4- to 5-quart pot over moderate heat. Stir in onion, ingredients, 28 scallions, and garlic. Cover and cook 5 minutes, stirring once, until grinding pepper, 54 onion is tender. Stir in spinach, artichoke hearts and 1/4 cup of the boiling and peeling eggs, 75 chicken broth called for in the sauce. Cover and cook 10 to 12 measuring liquid minutes, until artichokes are tender; season with salt and pepper. ingredients, 29 Spread evenly in a baking dish about 13 x 9 x 2 inches. Slice hard- cooked eggs with a knife or egg slicer. Arrange on top of artichoke opening cans, 59 mixture without spreading slices out too much. Heat oven to 350 grating cheese, 52 degrees. juicing citrus fruits, 54 washing produce, 41 grinding pepper, 54 melting butter, 82 simmering ingredients, 84 setting the timer, 91 layering casseroles, 55 calibrating the oven, 89 boiling ingredients, 76

232 Dairy Case

Sauce Sardou

5 tablespoons unsalted butter 5 tablespoons freshly squeezed 1/4 cup all-purpose flour lemon juice 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon chopped fresh 1 13- to 14-ounce can chicken thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon broth dried thyme 1/2 cup freshly grated 1/2 teaspoon salt Parmesan cheese 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper Wash and dry the pot. In it, melt 3 tablespoons butter over moderate heat. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Pour in cream and remaining chicken broth. Whisk well; cover and remove from heat; let stand 1 minute. Put back over moderate heat and bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sauce begins to thicken. Reduce heat to low and simmer 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and let cool 5 minutes. Add cheese, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, lemon juice, thyme, salt, and pepper. Stir well. Spoon or pour over eggs. Cover dish with foil and bake 25 minutes until heated through. Uncover and bake 10 to 15 minutes longer, until bubbling. Serves 10-12

If your Mardi Gras breakfast is buffet-style, you will need a low-heat chafing dish or steamer to keep the eggs warm without drying them out. (dds)

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

233 Dairy Case

This egg salad, salmon-colored and peppery with cayenne, is served on charcoal-grilled or toasted bread. Watercress is layered in the middle.

Creole Egg Salad Sandwich

Refer to: boiling and peeling eggs, 75 4 large eggs 1 clove garlic, minced setting the timer, 91 basic mayonnaise 2 teaspoons paprika peeling celery, 31 4 tablespoons celery, finely 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper dicing vegetables, 49 diced 1 1/2 teaspoons sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons red onion, 1 teaspoon lime or lemon juice peeling an onion, 31 minced 1 teaspoon capers, chopped mincing vegetables, 58 3 tablespoons sour French salt chopping vegetables, 45 pickles (cornichons) or other bunch watercress peeling garlic, 32 sour pickle, finely chopped 8 slices bread measuring dry ingredients, 28 Put the eggs in a pan, cover them with cold water, and bring them to a boil. Immediately turn off the heat and cover the pan. After they sit for measuring liquid 6 1/2 minutes, pour the water off the eggs, and run them under cold ingredients, 29 water until they have cooled. Prepare the mayonnaise and stir in the juicing citrus fruits, 54 celery, onion, pickles, and seasonings. Peel and chop the eggs, add salt and pepper to taste, 63 the mayonnaise, and season with salt. Break off the smaller branches washing produce, 41 of watercress from the thick stems; wash and dry them. Assemble the sandwiches. Spread some egg salad on each slice of bread, and put combining ingredients, 46 them together with several sprigs of cress in the middle. Cut in half assembling a sandwich, 43 and serve. Makes 4 sandwiches

A version of the Creole egg salad, using just the yolks, can be used for filling deviled eggs. (dds)

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

234 Dairy Case

Just the hint of garlic gives this traditional Southern dish its welcoming morning aroma. (dds)

Garlic Cheese Grits (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast) Refer to: 6 cups water 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh measuring liquid 1 1/2 cups quick grits garlic ingredients, 29 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground measuring dry 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) pepper ingredients, 28 unsalted butter 1/4 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce measuring butter/ 2 large eggs 8 ounces sharp or extra-sharp margarine, 28 cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cracking eggs, 48 cups) peeling garlic, 32 Heat oven to 350 degrees. Bring water to a boil in a large heavy mincing vegetables, 58 saucepan over moderately high heat. Stir in grits and salt and bring to grinding pepper, 54 a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes, stirring grating cheese, 52 occasionally. Remove from heat. Put butter on top of grits. Cover and calibrating the oven, 89 let stand 5 minutes. Uncover, stir, and cool 5 more minutes, stirring 2 to 3 times. Beat in eggs, garlic, pepper, and hot-pepper sauce. When boiling ingredients, 76 thoroughly mixed, beat in 1 1/2 cups of cheese. Spread mixture in a simmering ingredients, 84 well-buttered baking dish about 13 x 9 x 2 inches. Sprinkle with setting the timer, 91 remaining cheese. Bake 30 minutes (40 minutes, if chilled) until hot greasing and flouring and bubbly. pans, 53 Makes 10-12 servings

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

235 Dairy Case

Fontina, mozzarella, provolone, Gorgonzola, and Parmesan melt nicely together, flavored with the mystery of rosemary and the surprising nuttiness of walnut halves.

Nutty Cheese Calzone Refer to: grating cheese, 52 1/2 recipe Basic Pizza Dough - 2 1/2 cup coarsely chopped chopping nuts, 45 balls (page 247) walnuts washing produce, 41 1 cup grated Fontina cheese 2 teaspoons chopped fresh chopping vegetables, 45 1 cup cubed mozzarella cheese rosemary leaves zesting citrus fruits, 74 (1/4-inch cubes) 1 teaspoon finely chopped grinding pepper, 54 1 cup grated provolone cheese lemon zest cracking eggs, 48 1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cheese black pepper beating ingredients, 43 1/4 cup freshly grated 1 large egg, lightly beaten calibrating the oven, 89 Parmesan cheese greasing and flouring pans, 53 One hour before cooking, preheat the oven to 500 degrees. When the combining ingredients, 46 oven is almost ready, lightly oil a pizza pan and sprinkle with cornmeal. setting the timer, 91 On a well-floured surface, press the dough to the prepared pizza pan, and set it aside. Combine the remaining ingredients in a large bowl, and mix well with a fork. Using a knife, lightly score a line down the center of the dough, and arrange the filling on one side of the line. Fold the other side over the filling, and pinch the edges together well, making sure the calzone is completely sealed. Poke a few holes in the top of the calzone with the tines of a fork, and bake until it is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 2

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

236 Dairy Case

A cousin to scrambled eggs. The resemblance ends there.

Omelets Made Easy

Refer to: 2 eggs at room temperature 1/4 cup filling, choice of cracking eggs, 48 2 tablespoons tepid water sliced mushroom and green beating ingredients, 43 1/4 teaspoon salt pepper measuring liquid dash herb seasoning (optional) sliced black olive and tomato ingredients, 29 few grinds of fresh pepper sliced green onions and 2 teaspoons butter grated cheese measuring dry ingredients, 28 sliced avocado and salsa picante grinding pepper, 54 measuring butter/ Break eggs into a small bowl. Add water and salt. Beat eggs with a margarine, 28 wire whisk or a fork until well broken up. Heat a 7-inch skillet over preparing mushrooms, 37 moderate to moderately-high heat and add butter. When a few drops slicing vegetables, 66 of water flicked into the skillet skittle across the bottom, the pan is ready. Pour in the egg mixture. Cook for 2 minutes and it should set coring and seeding at the edges. With a spatula turned upside-down, carefully draw peppers, 25 cooked portions from the edges toward the center allowing more liquid peeling tomatoes, 33 portion to ooze to the hot surface of the pan. peeling a green onion, 30 When the eggs feel moist and creamy, but not completely set, place grating cheese, 52 your filling on the half of the omelet closest to the pan handle. With the preparing avocados, 33 spatula in upright position, loosen the far edges that do not have filling setting the timer, 91 on them. Fold the unfilled half over the filled half. Tilting the pan over a warmed plate, slide the omelet off onto the plate. Remember that warming plates, 73 eggs continue to cook after they leave the pan. It’s that easy! Serves 1

The final preparation is quick, so be sure everything is ready, including the people who are about to eat. If you are making more than one omelet, mix up all the egg mixture at once and ladle out with a half-cup measuring cup.

237 Dairy Case

Rich, thick and a welcome departure from red sauces. The pasta needs to be fresh and al dente to hold up under a lusty cheesy sauce.

Pasta Sauce with Three Cheeses

Refer to: 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 2 teaspoons fresh basil, minced measuring liquid 4 ounces Fontina cheese, salt and freshly ground pepper ingredients, 29 grated to taste measuring dry 3 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, grated Parmesan cheese to ingredients, 28 crumbled garnish grating cheese, 52 2 cloves garlic, minced peeling garlic, 32 mincing vegetables, 58 Heat the cream in a heavy saucepan very slowly. When it is too warm to touch, add the Fontina cheese and the Gorgonzola cheese. Melt the washing produce, 41 cheeses slowly. Whisk several times to blend. Add garlic, basil, salt salt and pepper to taste, 63 and pepper. Whisk twice. Cook an additional minute or two. Ladle grinding pepper, 54 over plates of hot pasta and sprinkle generously with Parmesan setting the timer, 91 cheese. whisking ingredients, 74 Serves 4 cooking pasta, 78

238 Dairy Case

About the quickest, friendliest snack or light supper you will find. Quesadilas were originally a way to use ingredients that were not the absolute freshest, such as day-old tortillas and wilted green onions.

Quesadillas

Refer to: choice of tortillas: choice of fillings to combine: grating cheese, 52 flour chopped green onion, corn including tops peeling a green onion, 30 choice of grated or thinly sliced chopped tomato chopping vegetables, 45 cheese: slivers of ham peeling tomatoes, 33 Monterey Jack sliced peppers, any color slicing meats, 65 muenster sliced black Greek olives coring and seeding sharp cheddar sliced artichoke hearts peppers, 25 Fontina sliced ripe avocados pitting olives, 33 Havarti slicing vegetables, 66 Place the tortilla flat on the counter. Fold in half, but do not crease to preparing avocados, 33 the breaking point. On one half place the cheese and sprinkle other setting the timer, 91 ingredients. Then fold the tortilla by closing the lid so that it is shaped flipping pancakes, 80 like a half-moon. Heat a griddle or skillet till a drop of cold water skittles around and sizzles. Place the "sandwich" on the hot surface and let cook on medium-high heat about 7 minutes. Pick up the end of the tortilla with a spatula and feel the bottom gingerly. It should be somewhat crisp. You could also open the tortilla to see if the cheese is melted, but this is a little more dangerous. Slip the spatula under the "sandwich" and quickly flip it over. Tilt the pan or griddle a little to help catch the tortilla. Cook on the other side about 4 minutes. Slide onto a plate and serve with left-over beans or rice. Serves 1

239 Dairy Case

Even though we are long past the 70s, the Decade of Quiche, it still stands up as a superb, easy-to-prepare standard for buffets, potlucks and a quick meal. I give you a basic “starter kit” here and ideas to build on. Be brave...clean out the fridge...anything goes.

Quiche the Cook! Refer to: measuring liquid 1 prepared Best Ever Pastry Shell (page 265) ingredients, 29 1 batch custard: 1 cup cream cracking eggs, 48 4 egg yolks separating eggs, 63 pinch each of salt, cayenne and nutmeg measuring dry fresh ground pepper ingredients, 28 additional ingredients as desired (see below) grinding pepper, 54 frying bacon, 81 Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Prick the prepared pie crust several grating cheese, 52 times with a fork and bake for 10 minutes. This will seal it from the shucking corn, 39 liquid ingredients. Remove from oven. Reduce oven to 375 degrees salt and pepper to taste, 63 while you continue the preparation. Place vegetables, meats or other preparing avocados, 33 ingredients in the pastry shell. If cheese is called for, add it to the custard mixture. Pour the custard over the ingredients. Bake for 40 or slicing vegetables, 66 45 minutes. Test for doneness by placing a knife in the middle of the juicing citrus fruits, 54 custard. If it comes out clean, it is done. Remove from oven and let preparing mushrooms, 37 stand for 5 minutes before cutting. sautéing vegetables, 83 Possible additional ingredients; coring and seeding peppers, 25 for Quiche Lorraine: chopping vegetables, 45 8 slices bacon, fried fairly crisp 6 ounces Gruyère cheese, peeling carrots and and crumbled grated potatoes, 31 boiling ingredients, 76 for Sweet Corn Quiche, mix together: peeling an onion, 31 kernels from 6 ears tender, fresh 3 tablespoons sugar corn 1 teaspoon salt boiling and peeling eggs, 75 1/2 cup milk freshly ground pepper to taste peeling and deveining shrimp, 30 calibrating the oven, 89 setting the timer, 91

240 Dairy Case

for Crab and Avocado Quiche: flesh of 1 avocado, sliced 1/2 pound fresh cooked crab juice of 1 lime or lemon to meat sprinkle over avocado 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard to salt and pepper to taste spread on crab meat sprinkled over avocado

for Mushroom and Green Pepper Quiche: 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced 6 ounces muenster cheese, and sautéed grated 2 green peppers, chopped salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

for Potato, Egg and Bacon Quiche 2 pounds potatoes, boiled and 6 slices bacon, fried crisp and sliced crumbled 1 medium onion, chopped and salt and freshly ground pepper sautéed to taste 1 coarsely chopped hard- cooked egg

for Shrimp Quiche 1/2 pound cooked, shelled 1 extra egg yolk in custard shrimp 1/4 cup sherry in custard Serves 6

Pie crusts are also available in your grocer’s freezer. I have seen the liquid quiche custard in the refrigerator section, too.

241 242 Breads

Yeast breads, quickbreads, biscuits, pancakes and muffins

Contents Angel Biscuits ...... 245 Banana French Toast ...... 246 Basic Pizza Dough ...... 247 Blackberry Jam Coffee Cake ...... 248 Boarding House Ice-box Muffins . . . . 250 Cornmeal Griddle Cakes ...... 251 Creamy Banana Coffee Cake ...... 252 Iron Skillet Cornbread ...... 254 Mamaw's Perfect Turkey Dressing . . 255 Nutty Zucchini Bread ...... 256 Parmesan Biscuit Bites ...... 257 Pumpkin Nut Muffins ...... 258 Round Loaves ...... 259

243 Breads

244 Breads

I never would have believed that a cowboy's rough hands could have shown me how to make biscuits this light and airy. Heavenly!

Angel Biscuits

Refer to: 1 package dry yeast 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon soda measuring dry 2 tablespoons warm water 1/2 teaspoon salt ingredients, 28 1 1/2 cups buttermilk 1 cup butter measuring liquid 5 cups flour ingredients, 29 measuring butter/ Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mix yeast, sugar and warm water in a margarine, 28 small bowl. Cover the bowl with a towel and let stand 5 minutes in a calibrating the oven, 89 warm place. Add buttermilk and set aside. In a large bowl combine proofing yeast, 60 the dry ingredients. Cut in butter until the size of small crumbs. Make a well in the middle and add buttermilk mixture. Mix gently with a fork blending pastry, 44 just until moistened. Turn onto floured surface. Knead lightly 3-4 kneading dough, 54 times. Cover dough with a towel and refrigerate for one hour. flouring a surface, 51 Remove from the refrigerator and turn onto floured surface and knead letting dough rise, 56 3-4 times. Roll the dough to 2 inches thick. Flour the rim of a drinking rolling out pastry, 62 glass and use it to cut the dough into rounds. Place on a greased cookie sheet. Bake for 10 minutes. greasing and flouring pans, 53 Makes 3 dozen biscuits setting the timer, 91 spatula off the cookie sheet, 92 This dough may be frozen for up to 3 weeks.

245 Breads

Play hooky. Unplug the phone. Enjoy a long, languid breakfast. (dds)

Banana French Toast

Refer to: cracking eggs, 48 4 eggs 2 ripe bananas, 1 peeled and 1/3 cup milk (any kind will do) sliced into 1/4 inch-slices, the measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1 1/2 teaspoons ground second, skin left on for use as cinnamon (no sugar) or a garnish measuring dry nutmeg (but not both) 1 tablespoon butter ingredients, 28 4 slices of whole wheat bread, 1/2 cup real maple syrup measuring butter/ multi-grain bread, or nut bread margarine, 28 sliced to the same thickness beating ingredients, 43 as conventional white bread melting butter, 82 setting the timer, 91 Beat eggs, milk, and half of cinnamon or nutmeg in shallow bowl. flipping pancakes, 80 Soak bread slices in egg mixture until completely soggy. Take one slice of bread, cover with banana slices, and then cover with a second warming plates, 73 slice of bread (like a drippy banana sandwich). In a sauté pan , over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add “sandwich”. Cover pan with lid. Cook until well browned on both sides and cooked throughout (approximately 4 minutes on the first side and 3 minutes on the second side). Remove “sandwich” from pan and place on warmed serving plates. Remove pan from burner and quickly pour maple syrup into hot pan for 15 seconds. Pour syrup over “sandwich”. Le secret: The object is to brown the outside nicely and cook the inside thoroughly without drying it out . Make an incision in the middle to test for doneness. If the outside is done but the inside is still runny, reduce heat to medium-low and cover for a couple more minutes. Adventure Club: Try replacing bananas with slices of fresh peaches, apricots, or other fruits. Garnish: Three 1/4-inch slices of banana, in its skin, side by side, and remaining cinnamon or nutmeg sprinkled around the edge of the plate. Suggested accompaniments: Any type of fresh berries. Serves 2

From The Surreal Gourmet, by Bob Blumer ©1992, published by Chronicle Books.

246 Breads

A simple-to-prepare, classic pizza dough that is ideal for most toppings.

Basic Pizza Dough

Refer to: 1 cup warm water 2 tablespoons olive oil measuring liquid 1 package active dry yeast or 1/2 teaspoon salt ingredients, 29 1/4 ounce compressed yeast measuring dry 2 1/2 to 3 cups unbleached all- ingredients, 28 purpose flour combining ingredients, 46 Combine the water, yeast, and 1 1/2 cups of the flour in a large bowl. flouring a surface, 51 Mix well. Add the oil, salt, and remaining flour. With your hands or a kneading dough, 54 large wooden spoon, work the ingredients together until the dough setting the timer, 91 holds its shape. (You may need a bit less flour, so add the last half greasing and flouring gradually.) Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead pans, 53 until it is smooth and elastic, 5 minutes. If the dough becomes sticky while you are kneading it, sprinkle a bit more flour over it. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled 2-quart bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel, and let the dough rest until it has doubled in size, 1 hour. When the dough has risen, place it on a lightly floured surface, divide it into two or more parts (see below) and roll them into balls. Cover them with a towel and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. The dough is now ready to be shaped, topped, and cooked. Makes two 12-inch pizzas (4 portions) Four 6-inch pizzas (4 portions) Eight 3-inch pizzas (8 appetizer portions)

Grandmother DeBord was expert at making the thinnest crust you could imagine. She hammered out the dough with the heel of her hand, being careful not to treat it too roughly. With a little patience and time, she could stretch this recipe to double its original purpose. (dds)

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

247 Breads

The sweet strains of the blackberries and spices set off the other strong flavors in the breakfast menu.

Blackberry Jam Coffee Cake (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast) Refer to: measuring dry Topping ingredients, 28 packing brown sugar, 60 2/3 cup all-purpose flour 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) measuring butter/ 1/4 cup packed light brown unsalted butter, at room margarine, 28 sugar temperature melting butter, 82 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon cracking eggs, 48 Put all ingredients into a small bowl and work with fingertips until measuring liquid mixture looks like coarse crumbs. ingredients, 29 zesting citrus fruits, 74 combining ingredients, 46 Batter calibrating the oven, 89 greasing and flouring 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) pans, 53 2 teaspoons baking powder unsalted butter, melted and mixing batter, 58 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon cooled whisking ingredients, 74 1 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly- 3/4 cup packed light brown pouring batter into pan, 61 grated or from a jar sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 3 large eggs setting the timer, 91 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt testing for doneness, 92 1 teaspoon freshly-grated lemon peel 1/2 cup blackberry jam

248 Breads

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan. Put flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Stir to mix well. Put butter and sugar in a medium-sized bowl. Whisk until smooth. Whisk in eggs, buttermilk and lemon peel. Pour over flour mixture. Stir just until dry ingredients are moistened. (Batter may be slightly lumpy.) Scrape batter into prepared pan. Spoon jam on top of batter and swirl gently through batter with a rubber spatula, spreading batter to edge of pan. Sprinkle with topping. Bake 25 to 35 minutes, until topping is lightly browned. Cake will feel firm to the touch, and a toothpick inserted in the center will come out clean. Place pan on wire rack to cool. Cut into 12 pieces and transfer to a plate. Serves 12

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

249 Breads

It's always a treat to resurrect an old favorite. When I saw Cindy scooping out the batter from a large crock, I remembered this hearty, healthy muffin that is always ready. She keeps the ever-bubbly batter in the refrigerator, where it stays ready for the next craving for a warm breakfast bread. Thanks Cindy!

Boarding House Ice-box Muffins

Refer to: measuring dry 5 teaspoons baking soda 1 quart buttermilk ingredients, 28 4 cups 100% bran cereal 4 cups flour 2 cups boiling water, divided 1 teaspoon salt measuring liquid ingredients, 29 1 cup shortening 2 cups granola or similar cereal 2 cups sugar 2 cups choice of mixed dates, cracking eggs, 48 4 eggs raisins and/or nuts, chopped chopping nuts, 45 creaming butter and Put soda in a cup or small bowl and 100% bran cereal into a medium sugar, 48 bowl. Add 1/2 cup boiling water to the soda and the rest to the cereal. mixing batter, 58 Let both cool. Cream shortening and sugar in a large bowl; add eggs one at a time. Then add soda mixture and mix well. Add buttermilk and preparing muffin tins, 61 flour alternately, stirring between each. Add remaining ingredients; spooning dough into muffin mix well, scraping the sides often. Store covered in the refrigerator. tins, 66 Do not stir again. calibrating the oven, 89 As you need muffins, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare setting the timer, 91 muffin tins and spoon the batter into tins, filling half-full. Bake for 25 minutes. Makes 5-6 dozen muffins

You might not believe it, but the batter keeps in the fridge for up to 6 weeks. The only hard part is resisting the urge to stir the batter as you scoop it into the muffin tin.

250 Breads

When you’re making pancakes, always make the first pancake a test. If the batter is too thick to spread on the griddle, thin it with a very small amount of additional milk. Serve the pancakes with either brown-sugar syrup or maple syrup.

Cornmeal Griddle Cakes

Refer to: 2 cups yellow cornmeal 2 cups buttermilk or plain yogurt measuring dry 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup milk ingredients, 28 1 tablespoon brown or white 1/4 cup light olive or vegetable measuring liquid sugar oil ingredients, 29 1 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs cracking eggs, 48 1 teaspoon baking soda oil for the griddle whisking ingredients, 74 1 teaspoon baking powder preparing a griddle, 83 Mix cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and baking powder in a pouring pancake batter, 83 large bowl. Add buttermilk, milk, oil and eggs. Beat briskly with a flipping pancakes, 80 wooden spoon just until well mixed; batter will be thick. Heat griddle or large non-stick skillet over high heat. Reduce heat to moderate and oil griddle very lightly. For each pancake, pour a scant 1/4 cup batter onto griddle; cook 3 to 4 minutes, until lightly browned on the underside, but still moist on top. Turn pancakes over and cook until browned on bottom. Makes about 24-26 griddle cakes

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

251 Breads

A long Sunday morning, shorts, and sandals go well with this coffee cake. A hearty coffee, chilled juice and some light fruit would be great on the deck or patio.

Creamy Banana Coffee Cake

Refer to: 6 ounces cream cheese, 1 teaspoon baking powder measuring dry softened 1/2 teaspoon salt ingredients, 28 1/3 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg measuring butter/ 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon margarine, 28 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/3 cup fresh orange juice measuring liquid 1 egg 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ingredients, 29 1/2 cup butter, softened 3 medium, ripe bananas, cracking eggs, 48 1 1/2 cups sugar mashed juicing citrus fruits, 54 2 eggs 1 cup chopped pecans 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon butter, melted chopping nuts, 45 3 tablespoons hot water 1 tablespoon sugar melting butter, 82 3 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon creaming butter and sugar, 48 Combine cream cheese, 1/3 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon flour and 1/2 mixing batter, 58 teaspoon nutmeg, beating until smooth. Add 1 egg and beat again. greasing and flouring Set mixture aside. pans, 53 Cream 1/2 cup butter, gradually adding 1 1/2 cups sugar; beat well. calibrating the oven, 89 Add 2 eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Combine soda and setting the timer, 91 hot water and add to creamed mixture, stirring until well blended. testing for doneness, 92

252 Breads

In separate mixing bowl, combine 3 cups flour, baking powder, salt, 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Add flour mixture alternately with orange juice. Stir in vanilla, bananas and pecans. Spoon 1 1/2 cups of banana batter into lightly greased 10-inch tube pan. Spread cream cheese mixture evenly over batter. Spoon remaining banana batter over cream cheese. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-55 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 15 minutes in pan before removing to a rack to finish cooling. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar combined with 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon. Serves 10-12

Garnish this coffee cake with whole pecans for an artistic flair.

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

253 Breads

A quick-to-prepare cornbread combines with beans to make a complete protein. Try the spicy variation to accompany blander foods.

Iron Skillet Cornbread Refer to: measuring dry 1 cup corn meal 1/4 cup oil ingredients, 28 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 egg, lightly beaten measuring liquid 1/4 cup sugar Optional additions for spice: ingredients, 29 4 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 cup onion, minced cracking eggs, 48 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup grated cheddar cheese beating ingredients, 43 1 cup milk 1 cup whole kernel corn peeling an onion, 31 minced jalapeño peppers to mincing vegetables, 58 taste grating cheese, 52 Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease a small iron skillet or a round 9­ opening cans, 59 inch baking pan. Combine all ingredients. Pour into pan and bake 20­ mixing batter, 58 25 minutes. Serve hot. calibrating the oven, 89 Serves 6-8 greasing and flouring pans, 53 setting the timer, 91 Leftovers refrigerate well. Place in aluminum foil as plastic bags tend to sweat with this bread.

254 Breads

My brother Steven and all the boy-cousins made mashed potato faces at each other and flung peas on a knife at the Thanksgiving table. If Mamaw came through the swinging door, it was angel faces all 'round. The grown-ups thought the turkey was the centerpiece. We knew better...it was the dressing. I'm sometimes sorry I'm at the adult table now.

Mamaw's Perfect Turkey Dressing Refer to: 2 teaspoons yeast 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1 1/3 cups warm water, divided 4 tablespoons butter measuring dry 3 1/3 cups bread flour, divided 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar ingredients, 28 1 cup cornmeal 2 eggs, lightly beaten grinding pepper, 54 2/3 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons oil measuring liquid 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground 1 large onion, diced ingredients, 29 black pepper 2 cups mushrooms, sliced measuring butter/ 1 1/3 teaspoons dry sage 6 cups chicken broth margarine, 28 1 1/3 teaspoons celery seeds packing brown sugar, 60 cracking eggs, 48 For the bread: Mix the yeast and 1/2 cup of the water in a small bowl. Add 1 cup of the flour and work with your fingertips. Set aside. In a beating ingredients, 43 large bowl, combine the rest of the flour, cornmeal, salt, pepper and peeling an onion, 31 herbs. Add the butter, sugar, eggs, remaining water and yeast chopping vegetables, 45 sponge. Blend well. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for preparing mushrooms, 37 5-10 minutes until you feel the elasticity of the gluten from the flour. Cover and set in a warm place to rise. When dough has doubled its slicing vegetables, 66 bulk, turn out and punch down. Cover and let rest 3 minutes. Knead opening cans, 59 10 minutes and let rise to double in bulk again. Preheat the oven to 375 proofing yeast, 60 degrees. Uncover dough and knead for 10 minutes. Form into a round combining ingredients, 46 loaf and put into a lightly greased 9 x 14-inch baking pan. Bake for 35 minutes. The bread will sound hollow when tapped. Let cool on a rack flouring a surface, 51 completely. Cut into slices and let sit uncovered overnight to dry out. kneading dough, 54 For the dressing: Crumble the bread into a large bowl. Set aside. In setting the timer, 91 a large pot, heat the oil and sauté the onion and mushrooms for 10 letting dough rise, 56 minutes. Remove from the heat and add half of the chicken broth, the calibrating the oven, 89 vegetables and the bread crumbs. Continue to stir while adding testing for doneness, 92 chicken broth until it is the consistency your family prefers. Serve warm. making bread crumbs, 56 sautéing vegetables, 83 Serves 10-12 Remember that dressing is deadly when left out of the refrigerator too long. So tuck it away quickly with the turkey after the meal.

255 Breads

The whole wheat flour and wheat germ make a dense, complex bread. It is a nice accompaniment for soups and ratatouille.

Nutty Zucchini Bread Refer to: cracking eggs, 48 3 eggs 1/2 cup wheat germ beating ingredients, 43 1/4 cup honey 1/2 teaspoon baking powder measuring liquid 1 cup oil (sunflower or safflower) 2 teaspoons baking soda ingredients, 29 3 teaspoons pure maple syrup 1 teaspoon salt shredding vegetables, 65 2 cups zucchini, shredded with 1 cup chopped walnuts draining ingredients, 50 skins and drained 1/2 cup sesame seeds 3 cups whole wheat flour measuring dry ingredients, 28 Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl beat the eggs. Add oil chopping nuts, 45 and honey. Whisk lightly. Stir in the maple syrup and zucchini. In a calibrating the oven, 89 separate bowl mix flour, wheat germ, baking powder, baking soda, whisking ingredients, 74 chopped nuts, salt and sesame seeds. Add to the mixture above. Blend well. Divide dough in half and place in well-greased loaf pans. mixing batter, 58 Bake for one hour. Remove and cool on rack. greasing and flouring pans, 53 Makes 2 loaves setting the timer, 91 testing for doneness, 92 removing baked goods from You might want to add a teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg for pan, 90 a spicy touch.

256 Breads

We love these with omelets and soups. They stand up well the next day in a lunch of leftovers.

Parmesan Biscuit Bites

Refer to: 1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon oregano measuring dry 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese 6 tablespoons chilled butter ingredients, 28 4 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup milk measuring butter/ 1/2 teaspoon salt margarine, 28 measuring liquid Preheat oven to 450 degrees and lightly grease a baking sheet. Sift ingredients, 29 all dry ingredients into mixing bowl. Cut butter into flour with a pastry cutter or fork until pea-sized. (Handle as little as possible.) Push back calibrating the oven, 89 ingredients with your hands to create a well in the middle. Add milk all greasing and flouring at once into the well. Working from the edges, flip small bits of flour pans, 53 into the milk puddle. When all the flour has been moistened, stir gently sifting ingredients, 65 about 20 strokes. Spoon out the dough with a large tablespoon in blending pastry, 44 blobs onto the baking sheet. Space about 3 inches apart. Bake 12­ 15 minutes. Test for doneness by lightly pressing top. There should setting the timer, 91 be a slightly stiff crust and soft interior. Serve immediately. testing for doneness, 92 Makes 18 small biscuits spatula off the cookie sheet, 92

257 Breads

Pleasant to wake up to on an autumn morning.

Pumpkin Nut Muffins

Refer to: measuring dry 2 cups white sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder ingredients, 28 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground cloves packing brown sugar, 60 1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 eggs 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon cracking eggs, 48 1 pound pumpkin, fresh or 1 teaspoon ground allspice preparing pumpkin, 37 canned 1 teaspoon vanilla measuring liquid 3 cups flour 1/2 cup walnuts or pecans ingredients, 29 1 teaspoon baking soda chopping nuts, 45 calibrating the oven, 89 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cream sugar and shortening. Add the eggs one at a time, then the pumpkin. Combine well. Stir in dry creaming butter and ingredients, except for the nuts and blend well. Stir in vanilla and add sugar, 48 the nuts. Bake in prepared muffin pans for 15–20 minutes. Cool on a combining ingredients, 46 rack for 5 minutes. mixing batter, 58 Makes 24 muffins preparing muffin tins, 61 spooning dough into muffin tins, 66 setting the timer, 91 Freezes well for up to 2 months. testing for doneness, 92

258 Breads

This is an exceptionally detailed description of bread-making technique. All the hints and advice you need are here, so don't let the length of the description discourage you. Once you have tried making bread, you will have the idea of what the dough should feel like and how everything will act and react in your kitchen. After capturing the aroma, you will probably never buy bread again! (dds)

Round Loaves

Refer to: 1 tablespoon dry yeast 1 teaspoon corn oil measuring dry 2 cups warm water or whey several tablespoons of ingredients, 28 (105 degrees F) cornmeal for the peel (wooden measuring liquid 5 1/2 cups flour paddle) or baking sheet ingredients, 29 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil (optional) proofing yeast, 60 1. In a large mixing bowl with a 3-quart capacity, dissolve the yeast flouring a surface, 51 in the warm water or whey. Give the yeast time to “proof” (foam). kneading dough, 54 This will take from 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon the yeast. letting dough rise, 56 When the yeast has “proofed,” add 1 cup of the flour and the tablespoon of salt. With a wooden spoon, mix thoroughly. setting the timer, 91 calibrating the oven, 89 2. Continue adding flour, 1/2 cup or so at a time, until all but 1 cup of the flour has been used. Mix thoroughly after each addition. testing for doneness, 92 3. Begin kneading the dough in the bowl and, as soon as you are able to gather up the dough, scrape it from the bowl onto your floured work surface. Continue to knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary. Reserve 1/4 cup of the flour for later use. Knead the dough vigorously for about 10 minutes until it is smooth. The kneaded dough should spring back into shape immediately after inserting and withdrawing two fingers 1/2 inch into the center of the dough. Form the dough into a ball by cupping it with your hands and turning it on your work surface in a clockwise fashion. 4. Let the dough rest for about 3 minutes while you wash the mixing bowl. This small rest period will allow the gluten in the flour to relax so that the final 2 minutes of kneading will be easier. After cleaning the mixing bowl, oil it with the corn oil. 5. Knead the dough vigorously for another 2 minutes. Form it into a ball and place it into the oiled mixing bowl. Cover the bowl loosely with a cloth towel (never plastic wrap) and place it in a warm spot (65 to 80 degrees F). We use our oven with just the light turned on. A gas oven with the pilot light on is also a good spot or place the bowl on top of the refrigerator toward the back where it is warm.

259 Breads

6. Let the dough rise until it has tripled in volume, which will take from 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Give the dough a good look before it begins to rise and remember that shape to determine when it has tripled. In our mixing bowl, the dough will have risen about 3 inches above the rim when it has tripled. It is not imperative that the rising be exact. The range can be 2 1/2 to 3 times in volume without jeopardizing the quality of the bread. 7. When the dough has approximately tripled in volume, punch it down and return it to your floured work surface. Knead again, adding some of the reserved flour as necessary, for 3 minutes. Return the dough to the mixing bowl, cover with the cloth towel, and let the dough rise a second time to triple in volume. This rising time will be about 2 hours. If, during these risings, the dough develops something of a crust, do not worry. Once the dough is kneaded and rises again, the crust will disappear. It is much better to have this happen than to have the dough become soggy from being covered with plastic wrap. Also, the flour and yeast must breathe to develop their best flavor. 8. When the dough has tripled in volume for the second time, punch it down and place it on your floured work surface. Cut the dough into 2 equal pieces. Do not work the dough any more than necessary so as not to activate the gluten. Fold and shape each piece of dough to form rounds. Pinch together the open edges of the dough and make them the undersides of the loaves. To further shape the loaves, cup under each loaf with your hands and turn it briskly in a clockwise fashion on your work surface to form a perfect round. Pinch any air bubbles that may appear. 9. As each loaf is formed, place it on your peel or baking sheet which has been liberally sprinkled with cornmeal. Position the loaves so that they will have ample space to double in volume for the third and final rising. If the breads are rising on a peel, arrange them so they will slide from the peel to the hot baking stone without interfering with each other. Side by side with space for rising is best. 10. Cover the loaves with the cloth towel. Place the peel or baking sheet in a warm spot, but not in the oven this time, as the oven must be preheated. This third rising will take from 1 to 1 1/2 hours. 11. About 20 minutes before the loaves are ready to be baked, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. If you are using a baking stone, place it on the lower third rack of the oven at this time. If you are using a baking sheet, place a shallow pan, half-filled with water, on the bottom rack of the oven and position another rack in the middle of the oven. The pan of water will create steam in the oven, giving the bread the moisture needed for proper baking and a rich crust. The pan of water is not necessary when using a baking stone. 12. When the loaves have doubled in size, they must be slashed before baking. This will release pressure inside the loaves and allow them to rise even a little more during the first 10 minutes of baking. It is particularly important that the round loaves, made with an all-purpose, unbleached flour from the supermarket, be slashed accurately. If they are not, the loaves may become lopsided as they bake. Slashing the loaves to form a checkerboard pattern almost insures perfectly shaped breads. The slashing will take a little practice, but the checkerboard loaves are the most attractive. 13. To slash the loaves with a checkerboard pattern, use a clean, very sharp, single-edge razor blade. Begin by making a vertical slash, approximately 1 1/2 inches from the outside of the loaf. Hold the razor blade at a slight angle, not straight down, and cut about 1/3 inch into the bread. This first slash will be the shortest. Continue making parallel slashes working toward the center of the loaf. Each slash will become longer as you keep the 1 1/2-inch outside margin. When you reach the center, the

260 Breads

slashes become shorter until you reach the opposite side of the loaf. The distances between the slashes are determined by your expertise. If you are a beginner, space the slashes 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches apart. With more practice, they can be spaced 1/2 inch apart. 14. When the loaf has been slashed vertically, turn the peel or baking sheet so you can cut across the vertical slashes. These slashes will be more difficult. Leaving a 1 1/2-inch outside margin, begin the slashes from the side of the bread opposite you and cut toward yourself. If the bread tries to pull out of the shape as you cut across the slashes, reverse the razor blade and cut in the opposite direction. Try to put as little pressure on the bread as possible so as not to deflate it. If the breads have formed a light crust during the final rising, do not brush them with water, as it will not help in slashing the bread. Just be patient. Even if a few cracks should appear, it will not matter. (Close examination of professional bakers’ loaves sometimes show these cracks.) 15. If, when you make these loaves for the first time, you do not want to attempt the checkerboard pattern, you may slash the loaves with three to five long parallel slashes. You will still have fine-looking loaves of bread. 16. Before placing the loaves in the oven, you may brush them with olive oil. This is optional. The olive oil will give the loaves a depth of color and a little extra flavor. Use a small pastry brush and be careful not to let the olive oil run onto the peel or baking sheet. Brush the entire exposed surface very lightly with the oil. 17. If you are using a baking sheet, simply place it in the preheated oven on the middle rack. If you are using a baking stone, make sure that the loaves will slide from the peel before opening the oven door. Gently thrust the peel forward to see that the loaves will leave the peel. Open the oven door and with a strong, forward thrust, slide the loaves onto the hot baking stone. If they refuse to leave the peel, use a wide spatula to aid you. 18. Bake the loaves for 10 minutes at 450 degrees. Do not open the oven door during this time, as the loaves will be making one small, final rising. After 10 minutes, lower the oven temperature to 375 degrees and bake the loaves for an additional 25 minutes. Check the loaves during the last 10 minutes of baking and if they are browning too quickly, cover them lightly with aluminum foil. Remove the foil for the last few minutes of baking. To test the loaves for doneness, remove one from the oven after the baking period is up. Tap it on the bottom and if it sounds hollow, the loaves are done. 19. Remove the loaves from the baking sheet or stone and place them on a rack in an airy spot to cool. Do not slice the loaves for at least 1 hour as the texture of the loaves is still being formed as they cool. A cooling period of 2 to 3 hours is even better. If you wish to serve the bread warm, reheat it after the cooling period. Cut the bread into generous slices, about 3/4 -inch thick. 20. If you wish to refrigerate or freeze the bread, wrap the loaves tightly in aluminum foil after they have completely cooled. When serving, reheat the breads, loosely wrapped in the foil after they have come to room temperature. Heat them for 15 to 20 minutes in a preheated 350-degree oven. Makes 2 loaves, 7 inches in diameter

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

261 262 Desserts

Cakes, pies, cookies, candies, ices and fruit

Contents Best Ever Pastry Shell ...... 265 Chocolate Scotch Truffles ...... 266 Chocolate-dipped Strawberries ...... 267 Homemade Ice Cream...Overseas . . . . 268 Lacy Oatmeal Cookies ...... 269 Melon and Berry Platter ...... 270 Peach Ice ...... 271 Pecan Praline Cheesecake ...... 272 Sour Cream Apple Pie ...... 274 Texas Ranger Cookies ...... 275

263 Desserts

264 Desserts

It truly is the best.

Best Ever Pastry Shell Refer to: 3 cups all purpose flour 1 large egg measuring dry 1 1/2 cups Crisco 1 teaspoon white vinegar ingredients, 28 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons whole milk measuring liquid ingredients, 29 With pastry blender, combine flour, Crisco and salt until mixture cracking eggs, 48 resembles coarse meal. In small bowl, mix egg, vinegar and milk; add blending pastry, 44 to flour mixture, mixing only until dough holds together in a ball. flouring a surface, 51 Refrigerate for 1 hour. Roll out on floured waxed paper or pastry cloth. Turn onto lightly-greased pie plate. Trim to a 1-inch overhang and setting the timer, 91 flute edges. Freezes well. rolling out pastry, 62 To bake, prick all over with fork. Bake at 400 degrees for 11 minutes fluting pastry, 51 or until lightly golden brown. calibrating the oven, 89 Makes 2 10-inch deep-dish pie shells

These pie shells freeze well for up to a month.

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

265 Desserts

Scotch heightens the flavor of chocolate most beautifully. We like the added surprise of hazelnuts (or walnuts, pecans, or almonds) in the center. Offer these when you’re serving a simple fruit dessert; they’ll make it very elegant.

Chocolate Scotch Truffles Refer to: measuring dry 1 1/2 pounds good-quality 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) ingredients, 28 unsweetened chocolate unsalted butter cracking eggs, 48 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup Scotch whiskey separating eggs, 63 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 30 whole shelled hazelnuts measuring butter/ 1/2 cup heavy or whipping 1 cup sifted unsweetened cocoa margarine, 28 cream powder, for dusting measuring liquid ingredients, 29 Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place 10 ounces of the chocolate in a heavy saucepan, and melt over low heat. Remove the pan from calibrating the oven, 89 the heat and set it aside. Combine the egg yolks and 1/2 cup of the combining ingredients, 46 confectioners’ sugar in a large bowl, and cream until well blended. boiling ingredients, 76 Combine the cream, butter, and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a medium- mixing batter, 58 size saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the butter and sugar are thoroughly melted. Slowly pour the hot sugar mixture over the egg whisking ingredients, 74 yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Mix thoroughly and set aside to cool setting the timer, 91 slightly. Then stir in the melted chocolate and the Scotch; beat for 1 toasting nuts, 93 minute. Place the mixture in the refrigerator and chill until firm, 30 to 45 minutes. Meanwhile, place the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove them from the oven and rub handfuls of nuts in a kitchen towel to remove the skins. Set them aside. Roll a spoonful of the chilled chocolate around each hazelnut to form a truffle about 1 inch in diameter. Set them on a baking sheet lined with waxed paper, and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator 2 to 3 hours. Melt the remaining 14 ounces chocolate in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Sprinkle a shallow dish generously with cocoa. Dip each truffle in the melted chocolate, covering it completely. Then lift it out with a fork and roll it in the cocoa. Arrange the truffles on the baking sheet again, and chill before serving. Makes 40 truffles

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

266 Desserts

A superbly yummy treat for a special occasion.

Chocolate-dipped Strawberries

Refer to: 1 pound semi-sweet Baker's 1 quart strawberries washing produce, 41 chocolate shaving chocolate, 64 Grate, chop or process the chocolate so that it will melt more evenly whisking ingredients, 74 and quickly. Divide into two equal portions. Melt half the chocolate in a deep, narrow bowl which fits into another bowl or pan with two inches of water in the bottom. The water is not boiling, but is hot enough that when you dip your fingers into it, you most remove them almost instantly. Stir the chocolate constantly while it is melting. Be very careful to avoid getting even a drop of water in the chocolate while you are stirring. Melted chocolate should fall from spatula in a thin, even stream. Test this by pouring a spoonful onto a waxed paper square. You will hear it making droplets if it is not quite finished. When the first batch of chocolate is melted, remove it from over the water. The water should have cooled somewhat. Now, in a second container, melt the second half of the chocolate over the slightly cooler water, stirring constantly. Combine the two chocolates. Have clean, absolutely dry, perfect strawberries with their hulls intact ready on a sheet of waxed paper on a baking sheet. Dip the biggest berries first, because they will need deep chocolate if they are to be covered properly. Leave the very top of the berry (about a quarter inch below the hull) uncovered. Work quickly, before the chocolate hardens. Remove any excess chocolate from the bottom by brushing the strawberries against the side of the bowl or cup that holds the melted chocolate. If you have trouble holding the berry for dipping, insert a toothpick in the area where the stem would be. Place chocolate-dipped berries on waxed paper and refrigerate to firm chocolate and to store. Plan to eat the strawberries within a day or so after they are made. Makes 36 berries

267 Desserts

Jim's mother JoAn always had the taste of home for her family, even though they might be living anywhere from Iran to Tanzania. JoAn revised her Aunt Flossie's Iowa farm recipe. Since ingredients were often hard to get, she came up with a wonderful dessert that was always accessible. Homemade taste away from home!

Homemade Ice Cream...Overseas

Refer to: cracking eggs, 48 9 eggs 2 cups fruit of your choice measuring dry 4 cups sugar (optional) ingredients, 28 1/2 gallon evaporated milk ice opening cans, 59 1 tablespoon vanilla extract rock salt measuring liquid 1/2 teaspoon salt ingredients, 29 Whisk the eggs in a bowl until they froth. Add sugar gradually and whisking ingredients, 74 continue stirring with a fork. Add the milk, vanilla, and salt and stir making ice, 27 gently. Add optional fruit. Pour the mixture into the canister of a crank ice cream maker. Alternate layers—6 inches ice with 1 inch rock salt around the canister in the crack bin until it is full. Replace crank lid. Get one kid to sit on the lid while another kid cranks the ice cream maker. Every 10 minutes replace the ice that has melted. After 4 or 5 ice replacements, the crank should be difficult to turn. Check the ice cream. It should be frozen. Serve immediately. Makes 1 gallon

268 Desserts

If you’ve never been caught with your hand in the cookie jar, then you haven’t had a cookie this good. Brown sugar adds a great flavor to these classic favorites.

Lacy Oatmeal Cookies Refer to: measuring dry 1 1/2 cups quick-cooking rolled 1/2 cup (packed) light brown ingredients, 28 oats sugar 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose 1/2 cup granulated sugar measuring butter/ margarine, 28 flour 1 egg 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract packing brown sugar, 60 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup dried currants cracking eggs, 48 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted 1/4 cup chopped walnuts measuring liquid butter, at room temperature ingredients, 29 chopping nuts, 45 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease baking sheets. Toss calibrating the oven, 89 the oats, flour, cinnamon, and baking soda together in a bowl. Cream the butter and both sugars together in a mixing bowl until light. Beat greasing and flouring in the egg and vanilla. Then slowly beat in the dry ingredients, then pans, 53 the currants, and walnuts. Drop the batter by rounded teaspoonfuls, 2 tossing ingredients, 67 inches apart, onto the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden, creaming butter and 10 minutes. Leave the cookies on the baking sheets for 2 minutes; sugar, 48 then transfer them to wire racks to cool. mixing batter, 58 Makes 4 1/2 dozen cookies dropping dough onto cookie sheet, 50 setting the timer, 91 spatula off the cookie sheet, 92

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

269 Desserts

I think the flavor of an orange-fleshed melon, such as cantaloupe, tastes best with berries, but base your choice on which melons look best at the supermarket. You can serve peeled melon wedges with berries spooned over them, but for a party I think it is nice to cut the peeled melon into bite-size chunks and arrange the fruit either in individual serving bowls or on a large platter from which guests can serve themselves.

Melon and Berry Platter (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast)

Refer to: seeding and peeling 2 large cantaloupe melons melons, 38 2 or 3 pints fresh strawberries and/or raspberries or preparing fresh berries, 35 blueberries Mint sprigs for garnish Seed and peel melons and cut into bite-size chunks, cover, and refrigerate. Shortly before serving, pick over and rinse berries. Hull strawberries. If strawberries are very large, halve or slice them. Arrange melon chunks in bowls or on platter. Scatter berries over melon. Garnish with mint sprigs. Serves 8-10

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

270 Desserts

Cool! Peachy keen! (dds)

Peach Ice

Refer to: 1-pound bag peach slices, 1/4 cup honey measuring liquid frozen 1 tablespoon lime juice ingredients, 29 1/4 cup peach schnapps water as needed juicing citrus fruits, 54 1 teaspoon vanilla washing produce, 41 slicing vegetables, 66 Garnish: using a blender, 68 mint leaves fresh peach slices Place all ingredients in blender or food processor. Add water as needed and process to a thick consistency. Garnish with mint leaves and/or fresh slices of peach. Serves 6

May substitute nectarines for peaches.

Reprinted from Viva La Mediterranean by Jean Oliva-Rasbach and Christian W. Schmidt, copyright © 1994, with permission from HealthMark Centers of Colorado, Inc.

271 Desserts

The ultimate, sinful cheesecake.

Pecan Praline Cheesecake

Refer to: Crust making bread crumbs, 56 1 cup vanilla wafer crumbs 4 tablespoons butter, melted measuring dry 2 tablespoons sugar ingredients, 28 measuring butter/ To prepare crust, combine crumbs, sugar and butter in small bowl. margarine, 28 Mix thoroughly. Press onto bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Chill. melting butter, 82 Filling combining ingredients, 46 1 1/3 cups chopped pecans 1 cup packed dark brown sugar chopping nuts, 45 3 tablespoons butter, melted 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour creaming butter and 24 ounces cream cheese, 3 extra-large eggs sugar, 48 softened 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract packing brown sugar, 60 cracking eggs, 48 Combine pecans and butter; spread evenly on baking sheet. Watching carefully, toast at 350 degrees until golden brown. Cool. measuring liquid ingredients, 29 In large bowl, combine cream cheese, brown sugar and flour. Beat toasting nuts, 93 until light. Add eggs, one at a time, blending well after each. Stir in vanilla. Reserving 1/4 cup of pecans for topping, add remaining calibrating the oven, 89 pecans to filling mixture. Pour filling over crust and bake at 325 setting the timer, 91 degrees for 60 minutes. Turn oven off and allow cheesecake to cool boiling ingredients, 76 in oven for 30 minutes. Loosen cake from rim of pan. When cake has cooking candy, 77 cooled to room temperature, remove the rim. drizzling ingredients, 50

272 Desserts

Praline Topping 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup packed dark brown 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla sugar extract To prepare topping, combine sugars, cream and butter in small saucepan. Heat to boiling, stirring until sugars dissolve. Cook over low heat to just under the soft ball stage, or approximately 225 degrees on a candy thermometer. Immediately remove from heat and cool slightly. Add vanilla and stir until creamy. Sprinkle reserved pecans on top of cheesecake and drizzle praline mixture over the pecans. Refrigerate at least 8 hours before serving. Serves 12-14

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

273 Desserts

Walnuts add a wonderful crunchy texture to this sensational apple pie.

Sour Cream Apple Pie Refer to: measuring dry ingredients, 28 1 9-inch deep-dish Best Ever 3/4 cup sugar cracking eggs, 48 Pastry Shell (page 265) 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 cup sour cream 1/4 cup all-purpose flour beating ingredients, 43 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 pounds Granny Smith apples, measuring liquid 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract peeled, cored and thinly sliced ingredients, 29 peeling and coring an Prepare pastry shell and set aside. In large bowl, combine sour apple, 30 cream, egg, vanilla, sugar, salt and flour, stirring until well blended. combining ingredients, 46 Stir in apples. Pour into unbaked pastry shell. Bake at 425 degrees calibrating the oven, 89 for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake an additional 30 minutes. setting the timer, 91 packing brown sugar, 60 Topping chopping nuts, 45 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 2 1/2 teaspoons ground measuring butter/ 1/4 cup sugar cinnamon margarine, 28 1/4 cup packed light brown 3/4 cup chopped walnuts sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces Combine all topping ingredients, blending until mixture resembles coarse meal. Spoon topping over pie and bake at 350 degrees for an additional 15-20 minutes or until filling is bubbly. Serves 6-8

Reprinted with permission from the Junior League of Denver, Crème de Colorado Cookbook, ©1987

274 Desserts

All the girls would hover about the door of my dormitory room when I got a package from my mother, Jewel. Would it have the cookies in it? She made the best! First layer...Russian tea. Then popcorn. Then Tootsie pops. And then an Old Maine Trotters shoebox of Texas Ranger Cookies. Prayers answered.

Texas Ranger Cookies Refer to: measuring dry 1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon baking powder ingredients, 28 1 cup white sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt cracking eggs, 48 1 cup packed brown sugar 2 cups quick-cooking oatmeal measuring liquid 2 eggs 2 cups cereal of your choice ingredients, 29 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup shredded coconut 2 cups flour 1 cup nuts, chopped chopping nuts, 45 1 teaspoon baking soda calibrating the oven, 89 creaming butter and Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, cream the sugar, 48 shortening, white sugar and brown sugar together. Add the eggs one mixing batter, 58 at a time, stirring after each. Add the vanilla and blend well. Sift the sifting ingredients, 65 flour, soda, baking powder and salt together in a separate bowl. Then add to the creamed mixture. Mix well. Then add the oatmeal, cereal greasing and flouring and coconut and mix. You might even want to knead it with your pans, 53 hands. The dough will be quite crumbly. Mold it between your palms setting the timer, 91 into balls the size of a walnut. Place on a greased cookie sheet about spatula off the cookie 2 inches apart and press slightly with the heal of your hand. Bake for sheet, 92 10-12 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes on a rack. Makes 5-6 dozen.

I like these cookies a little softer. The harder ones that have cooked a little longer are perfect for hikes or car trips. They even freeze well.

275 276 Beverages

Hot and cold; with and without alcohol

Contents Café Ceballos ...... 279 Candy Bar Hot Chocolate ...... 280 Champagne Punch ...... 281 Fruit Smoothies ...... 282 Kahlúa Coffee, the Rowdy Girl Way . 283 Milk Punch ...... 284 Old Virginia Wassail ...... 285 Sangría ...... 286 Southern Iced Tea ...... 287

277 Beverages

278 Beverages

My adoptive Mexican family in Guadalajara used to serve this coffee with a quesadilla or other small snack for supper.

Café Ceballos

Refer to: 1/2 cup heavy cream 4 teaspoons chocolate syrup measuring liquid 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1 1/2 cups strong hot coffee ingredients, 29 1 tablespoon sugar chocolate for shaving measuring dry 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 cinnamon sticks ingredients, 28 Combine cream, nutmeg, sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon of the cinnamon. making coffee, 56 Whip and set aside. Put 1 teaspoon chocolate syrup into each of 4 shaving chocolate, 64 small cups. Stir remaining cinnamon into coffee and pour into cups. whipping cream, 73 Stir to blend. Top with spiced whipped cream and shaved chocolate. combining ingredients, 46 Cinnamon stick rests in the whipped cream. Serves 4

Also consider mixing the cream, sugar, chocolate and spices to keep in a small jar for use without whipping.

279 Beverages

Great milk chocolate nut bars are enriched with egg yolks for the most luscious hot chocolate ever. If you’re going all out, dollop with whipped cream!

Candy Bar Hot Chocolate

Refer to: cracking eggs, 48 2 egg yolks 2 ounces milk chocolate 1 cup milk candy bar with fine nuts separating eggs, 63 (such as Toblerone) measuring dry ingredients, 28 Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl, and set them aside. Coarsely chop measuring liquid the chocolate, and place it in a 2-cup microwave-safe glass measuring ingredients, 29 cup with a spout. Add the milk. Place the measuring cup, uncovered, beating ingredients, 43 in the microwave. Whisking once or twice, cook at medium-high shaving chocolate, 64 power (70%) until the chocolate is melted and well blended, 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. Remove the cup from the microwave and slowly pour the using the microwave chocolate into the reserved egg yolks, whisking constantly. Return the oven, 72 mixture to the measuring cup and cook in the microwave until heated whisking ingredients, 74 through, 1 minute. Pour into mugs and serve. Serves 2 portions

This recipe was cooked on medium-high (70% power) in a carousel microwave (650 to 700 watts) using microwave-safe containers. If your microwave is less powerful, you will have to allow for more cooking time (approximately 1 1/2 times the amount called for—but watch carefully); if it does not have a carousel, you may have to rotate the dish while it is cooking.

Reprinted from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins. Copyright © 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

280 Beverages

A centerpiece to weddings, showers, anniversaries and other celebrations of life, champagne brings luck and prosperity. You will need a large, festive crystal bowl for this one.

Champagne Punch

Refer to: 1 large ripe pineapple, peeled, 1/4 cup curaçao preparing fresh cored and cubed 1/4 cup maraschino liqueur pineapples, 35 1/2 pound powdered sugar 1 cup brandy measuring dry 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon 1 cup light rum ingredients, 28 juice 2 bottles chilled champagne juicing citrus fruits, 54 Place the pineapple chunks in the punch bowl and cover with the measuring liquid powdered sugar. Cover and let stand 2 hours. In a separated mixing ingredients, 29 bowl, stir together the remaining ingredients, except for the combining ingredients, 46 champagne. Pour over the pineapple and let stand at room setting the timer, 91 temperature for at least 6 hours. Chill thoroughly. Just before serving, opening wine and slowly pour the champagne over the other ingredients. Serve in small champagne bottles, 59 cups. This is a potent cup. Makes 1 gallon

Ice should not be necessary. However, if the punch will stand long enough to warm, you might add larger pieces of ice. I have frozen rosebuds into a bundt pan of water. Float the ring of ice in the punch bowl. It’s enchanting and adds a touch of whimsy.

281 Beverages

Quick, healthy, versatile and smooth as silk. Smoothies bring back delicious memories to an aging hippie chick.

Fruit Smoothies

Refer to: 3/4 cup yogurt 1 ripe banana, sliced measuring liquid ingredients, 29 3/4 cup apple juice 2 tablespoons honey 1/4 cup milk a few drops vanilla extract preparing fresh berries, 35 1/2 cup sliced strawberries slicing vegetables, 66 combining ingredients, 46 Place all ingredients in a blender. pulse a few times until the using a blender, 68 ingredients are blended, but the fruit is not pulverized. Take a few spoons out and put into frosted glasses. Blend the smoothie on high frosting glasses, 52 until it is frothy. Pour into glasses over the chunkier portion. Serve immediately. When you reach the bottom of the drink, you have a slightly chewy, fruity surprise. Serves 2

Use any fruit or combination you would like. Try blueberries, or raspberry and orange, or even peanut butter and chocolate.

282 Beverages

When I first met Jo, she was not much interested in the kitchen. She now owns the Groundskeeper Coffee House and is a superb cook. We must have known that's where she was headed. We experimented with ingredients one night until we came up with this one. I think most of the chocolate accidentally "fell" into our mouths. It's an astonishing way to end a gourmet meal and well worth the effort.

Kahlúa Coffee, the Rowdy Girl Way

Refer to: 1 ounce Irish whiskey 2 tablespoons whipped cream measuring liquid 1/2 ounce Kahlúa liqueur 1 Godiva chocolate liqueur cup ingredients, 29 6 ounces very strong coffee 1/2 ounce Kahlúa 1/2 teaspoon sugar making coffee, 56 measuring dry Warm a mug or large coffee cup with hot water. Discard water and ingredients, 28 pour in Irish whiskey, first half-ounce of Kahlúa and sugar. Do not stir. whipping cream, 73 Slowly pour in coffee. Top with whipped cream. Pour second half-ounce of Kahlúa into the chocolate liqueur cup and float on whipped cream. As the coffee is sipped, the chocolate melts, releasing the liqueur into the coffee. Serves 1

If the liqueur cups are not available, shave very fine dark chocolate onto whipped cream and drizzle the second half-ounce of Kahlúa over the top.

283 Beverages

Serve this traditional New Orleans favorite in large stemmed glasses or punch cups. Warning! It goes down real easy.

Milk Punch (part of Mardi Gras Breakfast) Refer to: measuring dry 2 tablespoons granulated sugar ice cubes ingredients, 28 6 cups milk about 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, measuring liquid 1/2 cup bourbon freshly-grated or from a jar ingredients, 29 1/4 cup crème de cacao making ice, 27 (optional) whisking ingredients, 74 grating nutmeg, 53 Mix sugar and 1 cup milk in a large serving pitcher. Add remaining milk, bourbon, and crème de cacao. Stir to blend. Serve at once, or cover and chill. Put three or four ice cubes in each glass. Fill with Milk Punch and top with a little grated nutmeg. Makes about 7 cups, 14 1/2-cup servings

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by West­ port Publishing Group.

284 Beverages

The gentle, spicy aroma of wassail greets holiday guests or chilled skiers with the promise of relaxing warmth. My sister Kathy keeps a pot on the back burner all through the holidays. I always know I am home.

Old Virginia Wassail

Refer to: 2 quarts sweet apple cider 1 teaspoon aromatic bitters measuring liquid 2 cups fresh orange juice 2 sticks whole cinnamon ingredients, 29 1 cup cranberry juice 1 small orange, studded with juicing citrus fruits, 54 1 cup fresh lemon juice whole cloves 1/2 cup pineapple juice 3/4 cup sugar, or honey to taste measuring dry light rum to taste (optional) ingredients, 28 boiling ingredients, 76 Put all ingredients in a large pot. Cover and cook on high for 1 hour, setting the timer, 91 then simmer on low for 4 to 8 hours. Serve warm from pot. simmering ingredients, 84 Makes about 12 1/2-cup servings

Wassail does famously well in a crock pot.

285 Beverages

My first glass of Sangría was poured for me from a bulbous pitcher with a dozen or so different fruits swimming among the ice cubes. Even though we were at a campsite in Madrid, it was served on linen tablecloths from crystal glasses. I try to recapture that feel each time I make it. The following suggestion is only one idea. Be creative with your own combinations.

Sangría

Refer to: 4 parts cheap hearty burgundy fruits for floating in pitcher measuring liquid or other red wine (melon, pineapple chunks, ingredients, 29 2 parts ginger ale cherries, etc.) juicing citrus fruits, 54 1 part orange juice frozen strawberries for glasses combining ingredients, 46 1 part any other fruit juice orange wedges for glasses slicing citrus for garnishing (cranberry, pineapple, lemon, glasses, 65 etc.) Mix all ingredients except strawberries and orange wedges in a pitcher. Chill at least one hour. Serve over frozen strawberries with orange slices as garnish on glass rim. Serves few to many

White wine coolers are a calming summer drink. Just substitute white wine for the red.

286 Beverages

Many women in the family...many ideas about tea. I learned how to make iced tea in two distinct ways while I was still in high school. They both yield a fresh and refreshing drink which all good Southerners consider an essential part of the meal. My mother's sister Patsy Joan goes to the kitchen to brew the best iced tea for the holiday table. My father's sister Sibyl goes outside for the sun to do her brewing. Grandmothers from both sides occasionally liked to put a crushed mint leaf in the glass.

Southern Iced Tea

8 tea bags, orange pekoe sugar Refer to: 8 cups of fresh water lemon wedges ice measuring liquid ingredients, 29 measuring dry Patsy's version: ingredients, 28 Place the tea bags in a teapot. Boil the water for a few minutes. Turn slicing vegetables, 66 off and let rest for 1 minute. Then pour over the tea bags and let steep boiling ingredients, 76 for 5 minutes. Remove the tea bags and chill the strong tea or pour immediately over lots of ice. Provide sugar and lemon for individual making ice, 27 taste.

Sibyl's version: Place the tea bags in a large glass jar with a lid and cover with fresh, room temperature water. Put in the warm, summer sun and let rest 8 hours. Serve over ice with sugar and lemon for individual taste.

287 288 Entertaining

Menus for success

Contents Step 1: Menus with recipes gathered from this book ...... 292 Step 2: Menu from Breakfast with Friends ...... 293 Step 3: Now it's your turn! ...... 293 Puerto Rican Connection ...... 294 Basque Festival Outdoor Dinner . . . . . 299

289 Entertaining

290 Entertaining

Sharing your hearth and home is truly a gift of yourself. Entertaining does not have to be an enormous production, unless you want it to be. Friends and family feel more a part of things if you allow them to participate. And that, of course, takes some of the burden from you. Offering good food and good conversation warms the home and the heart.

How to begin

When planning a festive menu, try to balance things so that if someone cannot come with his or her contribution, or if there is a small disaster, your main bases are covered. Balance the menu to include hot and cold foods, easy and more challenging preparations, varying colors and textures, and different levels of complexity of ingredients.

How to end

Presentation is important. As I have mentioned before, start with the service in mind when beginning the preparation. If those things are set up and ready to roll, you can move easily from the kitchen to the table. Small, inexpensive touches can make a world of difference. Take a look at the section “To the Table” (page 94) for more ideas. Just step out and try some things. Let's not lose our fine tradition of entertaining.

How to use this section

For the first step, I include three menus of foods taken from this book— original recipes and recipes borrowed from other cookbooks. They are not difficult preparations and should give you confidence. For the next step, I give you a menu from a professional chef, Elizabeth Alston, whose recipes are scattered throughout this book. Finally, I give you the chance to work without a net by providing two menus and the at­ tendant recipes in their entirety from two other professional chefs, Jacques Pépin and Connie Chesnel. This will encourage you to strike out on your own. Two things to remember: (1) Your family and friends are really there to enjoy each other. The food is just an excuse. (2) A pizza coupon by the phone in case of complete power failure or tornado boosts your confidence tremendously.

291 Entertaining

Step 1: Menus with recipes gathered from this book

Use these recipes to practice and gain confidence.

All American Grill Appetizer Chicago-Style Shrimp, page 105 Main Course Inside-out Burgers, page 179 Belly Acres Potato Salad, page 137 Grilled corn-on-the-cob with Adobe Butter, page 213 Beverage Sangría, page 286 Dessert Homemade Ice Cream...Overseas, page 268 ‘50s Diner Blue Plate Special Appetizer Cheese Niblets, page 102 Main course Knock 'em Dead Meatloaf, page 182 Potato Mash, page 202 Steamed Peas, page 85 Beverage Southern Iced Tea, page 287 Dessert Sour Cream Apple Pie, page 274 Thanksgiving Dinner Appetizers Olives in Cheese Puff Paste, page 109 Marinated Broccoli and Curry Dip, page 107 Nutsy Bobo, page 108 Soup Zucchini Soup, page 133 Main course The Turkey, page 160 Mamaw's Dressing, page 255 Yummy Yams, page 208 Twice-baked Potatoes, page 207 Cranberry Chutney, page 220 Round Loaves, page 259 Dessert Pecan Praline Cheesecake, page 272

292 Entertaining

Step 2: Menu from Breakfast with Friends

Elizabeth Alston assembles a Mardi Gras Breakfast with a taste of New Orleans. These recipes may look familiar: they are scattered throughout the book.

Mardi Gras Breakfast Milk Punch, page 284 Melon and Berry Platter, page 270 Grillades, page 128 Garlic Cheese Grits, page 235 Casserole Eggs Sardou, page 232 Blackberry Jam Coffee Cake, page 248

Step 3: Now it's your turn!

I have included two complete menus for you. They would work nicely for intimate family suppers and for large celebrations. All the tech­ niques you will need are in the technique section. I have not included specific locations for you here. If you feel as if you are working with­ out a net, quietly sit and plan out the process. Remember to start at the end, the table service, and work backwards in your mind.

Puerto Rican Connection Onion Soup With Vermicelli, page 295 Yellow Rice With Orange Rind, page 296 Puerto Rican Pork and Beans, page 297 Guava Paste Toast With Mint, page 298

Basque Festival Outdoor Dinner Roast Leg of Lamb, page 300 Red Beans with Homemade Chorizos, page 301 Chickory Salad, page 304 Sourdough Sheepherder Bread, page 305 Gateau Basque, page 306

293 Entertaining

Jacques Pépin is one of my favorite people. Chef to French presidents and absolute final authority on technique, he enters my kitchen weekly on his PBS series Today's Gourmet. I witnessed his technique in a close, personal way in Aspen recently, and I was astonished at his ability to articulate his methods. I am delighted that he has allowed me to share his menu with you. He speaks to us of his personal connec­ tion with Puerto Rico.

Puerto Rican Connection

Onion Soup With Vermicelli Yellow Rice With Orange Rind Puerto Rican Pork and Beans Guava Paste Toast With Mint

294 Entertaining

This is one of those easy, quickly prepared soups that we often make at home when we feel like eating soup and have no time to cook. I like it when the onions are cooked for long enough over high heat to become a rich, dark-brown color. To make a standard onion soup, a gratinée, omit the pasta and chives, top each bowl of soup with two or three toasted baguette slices and some grated Gruyere cheese, and place the bowls in a 400-degree oven until the cheese on top is crusty and brown. This is very good, certainly, although much more caloric than the rendition that follows.

Onion Soup With Vermicelli

1 tablespoon corn oil 3/4 teaspoon salt 4 medium onions (1 pound 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground total), peeled and sliced thin black pepper 6 cups light chicken or beef 2/3 cup (2 ounces) vermicelli broth, or a mixture of both, (angel hair pasta) preferably homemade and 2 tablespoons minced chives salt-free Heat the oil until it is hot but not smoking. Add the onions and sauté them over medium to high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until they are soft and a rich, dark brown-color. Add the stock, salt, and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover, and boil for 5 minutes. Add the pasta, bring back to a boil, cover, and boil gently for 5 minutes. Divide among four bowls, sprinkle with chives, and serve.

Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.

295 Entertaining

American Indians painted their faces with the dye from achiote seeds. Virtually tasteless, they lend bright color to the rice. They soften somewhat after cooking and are edible, but you can sauté them in the oil and butter until they have released their color and then remove and discard them before adding the onions and pepper flakes to the pan. For a more conventional white rice, omit the achiote seeds and orange rind.

Yellow Rice With Orange Rind

1 tablespoon canola oil 1/4 teaspoon crushed red 1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter pepper flakes 1 cup chopped onions 1 cup long-grain white rice 1 teaspoon achiote (annatto) 1/2 teaspoon salt seeds 1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange rind Heat the oil and butter in a saucepan. When they are hot, add the on­ ions, achiote seeds and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Mix in the rice. Add 2 cups water, the salt, and the orange rind. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook gently for 20 minutes.

Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.

296 Entertaining

My wife, Gloria, is of Puerto Rican ancestry, and she often prepares this type of dish when we have guests, especially family visiting from Europe. A satisfying, one-dish meal, it can be cooked ahead and fro­ zen, and it is even better reheated. Buy the meatiest, leanest coun- try-style spareribs you can find. Note that the cilantro stems are cooked with the beans to give them an unusual and definitive flavor, and then the leaves are added at the end. We particularly like the flavor of cilantro, but if you object to its taste, omit it from the recipe.

Puerto Rican Pork and Beans

1 tablespoon canola oil 1 teaspoon oregano 4 country-style pork loin 1 can (1 pound) whole tomatoes spareribs (about 1 1/2 pounds) 1 small jalapeño pepper, 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut chopped (about 2 teaspoons) into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1/2 2 teaspoons salt cup) 1 pound dried red kidney beans, 2 medium onions (about 10 sorted to remove any stones ounces total), peeled and cut and washed into 1/2-inch cubes (1/2 cup) 1 bunch cilantro (coriander or 6 cloves garlic, peeled and Chinese parsley), stems and chopped (about 1 tablespoon) leaves chopped separately 3 bay leaves (1/4 cup chopped stems, 2 teaspoons chopped leaves) Heat the oil in a sturdy saucepan. When it is hot, add the pork in one layer and cook it over medium heat for about 30 minutes, turning it until it is brown on all sides. Add 4 cups cold water and all the remaining ingredients except the chopped cilantro leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 1 3/4 to 2 hours, until the meat is tender. Divide among four individual plates, sprinkle with the chopped cilantro leaves.

Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.

297 Entertaining

This dish holds happy taste memories of childhood for my wife. Her Puerto Rican mother served guava paste often, and I have learned to like it too, especially in combination with a little cream cheese and mint. You’ll find it in the ethnic food sections of most supermarkets and in Latin American specialty food stores. This is good not only as a dessert but also as an afternoon snack or buffet dish.

Guava Paste Toast With Mint

4 thin slices white bread, crusts 1 can (1 1/2 pounds) guava removed paste 4 ounces cream cheese 24 mint leaves No more than 30 minutes before serving, toast the bread slices lightly and cut each of them into six pieces. On each piece, place a small slice of cream cheese and top it with a small slice of guava paste. Gar­ nish each toast with a mint leaf and arrange them on a plate.

Leftover guava paste, well wrapped, will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator.

Reprinted by permission from Good Life Cooking by Jacques Pépin, published by KQED Books.

298 Entertaining

Now for something really challenging! Don't let the exotic feeling of the unknown keep you from trying this menu. Connie Chesnel's work takes us all over the Rocky Mountain region with fabulous photo­ graphs and menus which celebrate the tastes of many cultures of the region.

Basque Festival Outdoor Dinner

Roast Leg of Lamb Red Beans with Homemade Chorizos Chickory Salad Sourdough Sheepherder Bread Gateau Basque

I have chosen this series because the techniques are well written and intuitive. You should need to refer to the technique section of this book very little. Good luck! (dds)

299 Entertaining

Roast Leg of Lamb

1 leg of lamb with shank (6 to 7 1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil pounds) 1 bay leaf 4 garlic cloves, cut in slivers salt and freshly ground black 1 cup hearty red wine pepper Pierce the lamb in several places with the point of a sharp knife, and insert half the garlic slivers. Mix the wine, oil, bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste with the remaining garlic. Rub 1/2 cup of the mixture into the meat with your hands. Let the lamb rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, then rub in one-quarter more of the marinade. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the lamb in a shallow roasting pan and roast for approximately 90 minutes (15 minutes per pound) for medium but still pink. Baste several times during the roasting with the remaining marinade. Test for doneness with the point of a knife. Serves 12-15

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

300 Entertaining

Red Beans With Homemade Chorizos

2 pounds (5 cups) dried red 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste beans 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 large onion stuck with 5 cloves 2 bay leaves 1 ham hock (about 1 1/2 5 chorizo sausages (about 1 1/2 pounds) pounds), cut into 1/2-inch 1 (1-pound) can Italian plum slices (recipe for homemade tomatoes, chopped and with Chorizos follows, or use any juice reserved good-quality commercial 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce brand)

Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover. Drain the beans and place in a large pot with the onion and ham hock; add cold water to cover by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil and skim foam off the top. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours. Set the ham hock aside and discard the onion. Add the remaining ingredients, including the reserved tomato juice and the chorizos. Continue to sim­ mer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, or just until the beans are tender. Trim the fat and gristle from the ham hock; cut the meat from the bone and chop it into small pieces. Return the meat to the pot for the last 15 minutes of cooking. Serves 12-15

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

301 Entertaining

T

To make chorizos, you need to order 24 feet of medium sausage cas­ ings from your butcher. You also need a sausage stuffer. Attach­ ments are available for various brand-name electric mixers as well as for hand-operated meat grinders. The Basques usually make at least 50 pounds of sausage at a time. This recipe makes 10 pounds, or around forty sausages. You can make half this quantity if you prefer.

Homemade Chorizos

1 pound large, dried sweet red 1 small bulb garlic ground, to a chiles, or 1/2 cup sweet pulp Hungarian paprika 3/4 cup cold water 10 pounds coarsely ground pork 1/4 cup salt, approximately with some fat If using dried chiles, seed them under cold running water, put them in a large bowl with water to cover, and soak overnight. Put the peppers through a food mill to remove the skins. You should have about 3 cups of pulp. Put the pulp in a large bowl, add the pork, and mix well with your hands. If using paprika, sprinkle it over the meat and mix in well. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel. Mix the garlic and water and pour onto the towel, letting the liquid drain into the meat. Take care that pieces of the garlic don’t get into the meat; they will cause it to discolor and eventually spoil. When all the water has seeped through the cloth, scrape the garlic to the center, gather the cloth around it, and squeeze the remaining liquid into the meat. Discard the garlic. Add the salt to the meat, 1 tablespoon at the time, mixing well after each addition. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next morning make a small patty, fry until well cooked, taste for seasoning, and add more salt to the mixture if needed, then refrigerate again overnight. Otherwise, proceed to make the chorizos. Put the sausage casings in cold water to cover and soak for 30 min­ utes or more. Stuff the casings according to the instructions with your sausage stuffer, using kitchen twine to tie the casings every 6 inches. Puncture the sausages with the point of a knife every 2 inches all around to aid in the drying process.

302 Entertaining

Hang strings of 3 or 4 sausages each in a cool (40 to 50 degrees), well- ventilated place to dry. A small fan to create air movements is helpful, but be sure it doesn’t blow directly on the sausages and dry them too quickly on the outside. In cool weather, you can hang the sausages in a garage or basement with the door left open. Put a pan or papers un­ der the sausages, since liquid will drain from the punctures in the cas­ ings. Let the sausages dry for 3 days, rotating away from air current if some are drying faster than others. If the temperature is not consis­ tently cool, dry for 4 days. After they have dried, the sausages will be ready to cook with the red beans. They can also be steamed, baked, or fried for 20 to 30 minutes and eaten as is, or used in other dishes. The chorizos can be stored in a container or plastic bag and refriger­ ated for 5 to 6 days, or put into freezer bags and frozen for up to 3 weeks.

Makes 40 sausages

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

303 Entertaining

Chicory Salad

2 medium cucumbers, peeled, 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved halved lengthwise, seeded, 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley and thinly sliced 6 radishes, thinly sliced salt 4 scallions, trimmed and thinly 2 medium heads chicory, torn sliced, using 1 to 2 inches of into bite-size pieces green parts 2 medium red bell peppers, cut into julienne strips

Dressing:

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar freshly ground black pepper to 1 small clove garlic, minced taste 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 cup olive oil Put the cucumbers in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes or more. Mix the first 5 dressing in­ gredients in a small bowl with a whisk or fork. Slowly add the oil in a very fine stream, whisking constantly until well blended. Rinse and pat cucumbers dry with a paper towel. Place in a large bowl, add the rest of the salad ingredients, and toss with dressing. Serves 12 to 15

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

304 Entertaining

This is a modern version of the classic sheepherder’s sourdough made in a Dutch oven. Take your starter out the night before you in­ tend to make the bread and increase it by adding 2 cups of warm wa­ ter and 2 cups of flour. The next day, measure out the starter you need, and return the rest to the refrigerator.

Sourdough Sheepherder Bread

2 cups sourdough starter 8 cups bread or all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 3 cups tepid water cornmeal for dusting Pour the starter into the bowl of a large mixer, and add the oil and wa­ ter. Mix gently on slow speed, using the paddle attachment, while you add up to 7 cups of the flour, 1 cup at a time. If the dough seems too wet, add 1/2 cup more flour. (Be careful not to add too much flour, since the dough should remain sticky.) Add the salt and mix well. Change to a dough hook and knead for 6 minutes on medium speed. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for about 3 minutes. The dough should be very elastic, soft, and smooth. Lightly oil and dust a 12-inch Dutch oven with cornmeal, put the dough in cover with a cloth, and let rise in warm place (70 to 80 degrees) until it is doubled in size. This can take from 1 1/2 to 3 hours, depending on the leavening effect of the starter. Place a bowl of water in the bottom of the oven, and preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Slash a design in the top of the risen dough. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 400 degrees, remove the bowl of water, and bake the bread for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the bottom sounds hollow when tapped and the bread is golden brown. Let cool on a rack and wrap in a cloth or a paper—not plastic— bag. Serves 12 or more

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

305 Entertaining

This is a specialty of Mireille and Alex Dusser of Alex’s restaurant in Park City, Utah. Make two cakes to serve 12.

Gateau Basque

Pastry Cream

pastry cream 2 egg yolks 3/4 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon almond extract 2 tablespoons flour 1/4 cup finely chopped blanched almonds

Cake

2 cups all-purpose flour juice of 1/2 medium orange 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or 3 eggs anise extract 1 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon almond extract 3/4 cup (6 ounces) unsalted 1 egg, beaten butter, melted and cooled to room temperature Scald the milk in a small saucepan. Beat the sugar, flour, and egg yolks together until light in the top of a double boiler. Add the scalded milk gradually, blending well. Cook over medium heat, stirring con­ stantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat, add fla­ vorings and almonds, and continue to stir for a few minutes. Cover and cool to room temperature. Meanwhile make the cake. Mix flour and baking powder together in a small bowl. Beat the egg and sugar lightly in a medium mixing bowl. Slowly add the butter while stirring. Add the flour mixture a little at a time, mixing after each addi­ tion. Stir in the juice and flavorings. Let the batter rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 9-inch cake pan with removable bottom. Divide the dough into 2 portions, one slightly larger than the other.

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Place the larger portion of the dough in the pan, flattening and spread­ ing with your fingers until it comes about 1 1/2 inches up the sides of the pan. Pour in the cooled custard, spreading it to within 1/2 inch of the sides of the pan, taking care that it does not touch the sides at any point. Pipe the remaining dough through a pastry bag in a spiral pat­ tern over the custard, making sure the batter touches the sides of the pan; or pat the batter into a circle large enough to touch the sides of the pan and place it on top of the custard. With the tines of the fork, lightly mark the top with two sets of diagonal lines in a crosshatch pat­ tern. Brush with the beaten egg and bake for 40 minutes, or nicely browned. Let the cake cool in the pan.

Makes 6 servings

Reprinted with permission by Crown Publishers, from Rocky Mountain Cookbook , by Connie Chesnel, ©1989

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