ABRUZZO EXPLORED in Some Areas, Rising to 100% in Others
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Central Italy maximum yield and minimum alcohol; and a Abruzzo has characterful indigenous white minimum percentage of Montepulciano – 85% grape varieties such as Pecorino, Cococciola ABRUZZO EXPLORED in some areas, rising to 100% in others. Four and Passerina, as well as Trebbiano Abruzzese. years later, in 1972, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Pecorino especially, with its apple and citrus Hard to pinpoint on a map it may be, but this central Italian region has long been a was established. In 2003, in another big step notes and its high acidity giving a juicy default choice for restaurant-goers thanks to its soft, easy-drinking reds, with its light towards quality, the Colline Teramane sub- brightness, has increased dramatically in zone was granted a DOCG, further defining popularity and plantings. The grape gets its whites a popular choice too. Susan Hulme MW reveals how Abruzzo’s forward-thinking and delimiting some of the best quality name from the Italian for sheep, pecora, the producers are harnessing their native varieties to create character in the bottle vineyards in the north of the region. The latest story being that sheep ate the grapes as they area to achieve DOCG status, in 2019, was moved up and down the hillsides grazing. Susan Hulme MW is a Terre Tollesi (also known as Tullum). Typically part of Trebbiano blends, wine writer specialising Production is low but the wines are considered Cococciola has also started to feature as a in Italian wines. Since he Abruzzo landscape is Below: the vineyards hardly a mention of the Abruzzo. It gets no distinctive enough to stand on their own, varietal wine. It often produces lightly floral, 2016 she has written breathtaking, with its dramatic, of Gianni Masciarelli in introduction and is skipped over in about 200 while still flying the flag for Montepulciano. softly textured, herbal wines that are gentle regularly for Decanter snow-capped mountains on the Montepulciano words, mentioning just two grape varieties, and approachable. Passerina is steely and and Decanter.com western horizon dropping down d’Abruzzo Trebbiano and Montepulciano, along with a The grapes minerally in style with a salty, savoury finish. Tto the sun-drenched beaches and shimmering few of the key towns and suggested pairings One of the Abruzzo’s natural strengths is its Better examples can be quite Chablis-like. sea of the Adriatic coast. Sandwiched in with local dishes. native grape varieties. Montepulciano, which Traditionally, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wine between are hilltop villages and a harlequin In those days, many of the average wines comprises 70% of the Abruzzo’s output, can be made from Trebbiano Abruzzese pattern of tumbling green and yellow hillsides were easily forgettable. As Cristiana Tiberio of produces friendly, fruity and accessible red and/or Trebbiano Toscano grapes. Although of wheat and vines. The mountains and the Cantina Tiberio says: ‘Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines. The deeply coloured, dark-berry, fruity the result can be quite dull if made from the sea are never far away, providing constant often oxidised after a few months in bottle, wines, not overly tannic, are easy to enjoy. latter, a handful of stunning wines are made breezes to moderate the summer heat and cool and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was tannic and Producers have responded to market tastes from the intriguing Trebbiano Abruzzese. In the vines at night. The drying winds help to fruitless, when not downright flawed.’ and moved away from heavily oaked styles. fact, Trebbiano Abruzzese is capable of prevent the diseases that thrive in dampness, One thing most wines from the Abruzzo There has been an increase in the use of producing some of Italy’s most exciting white thus making organic viticulture practical. lacked was a clear identity – a sense of place stainless steel and a return to the use of wines. It does not accumulate sugars easily, This varied landscape allows for different and personality. In an attempt to redress this, cement vats; coupled with a reduction in both instead considerately keeping alcohol levels elevations, aspects and microclimates – it the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC was the use of small oak barrels and in the time fairly low at about 12%-13%. It is delicate and really seems meant for viticulture. established in 1968, formalising regulations spent in oak. The result is a fresher, more bright in its aromas and flavours of flowers Yet, on re-reading Luigi Veronelli’s The designed to ensure quality: maximum approachable style of red that is in keeping and citrus, yet for all its fragility it is intense, Wines of Italy, published in 1960, there is vineyard elevation within specific sites; with modern taste. persistent and incredibly long lived. ➢ 86 | April 2020 • Decanter Decanter • April 2020 | 87 Central Italy CROATIA Florence N Abruzzo wine regions ABRUZZO 1 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC In July 2019, I tasted the wonderful ABRUZZO AT A GLANCE Adriatic Sea Valentini Trebbiano 1978 (see tasting notes, 2 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Total area under vine 36,000ha 3 Abruzzo DOC p90). It was a revelation, showing how good Rome 4 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Total production 3.8m hl ITALY 5 Colline Teramane Trebbiano Abruzzese can be in the right Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Producers More than 200, from 40 cooperatives 6 hands. It shone bright, almost Riesling-like, Tyrrhenian 6 Controguerra DOC Main grapes Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Pecorino, Sea A14 7 Terre Tollesi (Tullum) DOCG not in its aromas – though pretty, floral, honey 8 Villamagna DOC Passerina, Cococciola, Montonico notes are true to both varieties – but in its Teramo 5 9 Ortona DOC rapier-like qualities of acidity and intensity, ABRUZZO DOCS 0 10 20 30 40 combined with delicacy, finesse and its TERAMO Atri Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 9,325ha; GRAN SASSO D’ITALIA kilometres incredible ability to age. A14 Pescara 834,470hl (2018) A24 Penne Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2,121ha; 107,500hl 9 Making a mark Ortona (2018) L’Aquila A25 Chieti Adriatic In recent years, Abruzzo whites have been Limit of 8 7 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 851ha; 62,290hl Abruzzo Sea making their presence felt on UK shelves, wine region PESCARA Abruzzo DOC 224ha; 13,430hl often in the form of supermarket own-brand 1 2 Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo L’AQUILA wines. Lisa de Leonardis at Elledue, a public 3 4 A14 DOCG 134ha; 3,320hl A25 relations and export company based in the To Rome CHIETI Controguerra DOC 36ha; 2,360hl Abruzzo, comments: ‘In the last 10 years, ABRUZZO Terre Tollesi (Tullum) DOCG 19ha; 687hl To Taranto something has changed… People have started Villamagna DOC 16ha; 190hl to look for white wines. This fact has 1 4 Ortona DOC 8ha; yield not reported 2 3 Limit of determined the success of Passerina and Abruzzo MOLISE wine region Pecorino both in Italy and in the global (All figures from 2017 unless otherwise stated. Sources: Consorzio market. According to our experience in Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo; www.italianwinecentral.com) Nelson Maggie Map: export, these are becoming the most requested regional labels.’ But, according to Valentino Di Campli, traditional pergolas played their part in Generational shift president of Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo, putting Abruzzo wines on the map. Cristiana Tiberio owes her involvement in ‘Abruzzo sparkling wine is the news’, a These producers make world-class wines wine to her father’s discovery of a special development that is due to ‘the natural with the local varieties from which so much vineyard of Trebbiano Abruzzese in 1999. predisposition of the native Abruzzo grapes ordinary wine was once – and in some cases, Since 2004, she and her father have been to the sparkling process, from Trebbiano to still is – made. In the past, they were producing some excellent examples of Abruzzo Pecorino, from Cococciola to Montonico swimming against the tide, but they were wine. Highlighting the dramatic upturn in and Passerina’. proving it could be done. Now, every year quality, Cristiana has noticed how importers Above: Trebbiano The consorzio also notes an upturn in the The innovators Below: Cristiana Tiberio there are more producers who desire to excel are now happy to take more than one Abruzzo grapes are harvested sales of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a traditional, In the past, the Abruzzo has been fortunate has witnessed an upturn and to express the uniqueness of their grape wine – proof that the personalities of the at Emidio Pepe serious-style dry rosé which is more deeply to have a few pioneering, artisanal wine in quality in Abruzzo varieties and terroir. The swell is growing. wines are becoming more differentiated, coloured than current fashion dictates, but producers who have shown what can be whether through style, mesoclimate or terroir. has delightful, sappy, savoury red/green achieved with Abruzzo wines. In Italy, ‘Today,’ she says, ‘thanks to a new flavours such as rosehip and cranberry. The Valentini wines have an almost mythical generation of winemakers taking over at the wine received its own DOC in 2010, which status, and the producer is rightly regarded as helm of their family estate – individuals who allowed this distinctive and characterful rosé one of the country’s best. Its Trebbiano have trained in viticulture and oenology, and to stand out from the crowd. It is popular in d’Abruzzo commands prices that most white- have travelled the world learning from the Italy, where it rivals the traditional pairing of ‘One of wine producers could only dream of – and the best – there is a good number of high-quality beer with the traditional Sunday night pizza. wines have an extraordinary ageing potential. wines being made in the region. That wasn’t Whether red, white or rosé, sparkling or the Valentini’s Cerasuolo and Montepulciano really the case 30 to 40 years ago, when there still, recent figures show that, in the five years d’Abruzzo are equally complex, ageworthy was essentially only one estate making world- from 2013 to 2018, exports of Abruzzo wines Abruzzo’s wines with their own identity.