eat out eateat away out chef special chefMorocco special

MENU FOR 4 eat like a local T Cucumber & lemon salad T rice with caramelised onions T Tagine of turnips, zucchini & fava beans moroccoSunny has a fondness for rustic olive , lemon pickle, T Moroccan mint tea and dried fruits. It’s an eater’s paradise! T Sweet with & Words KALPANA SUNDER Photographs KALPANA SUNDER and EBEN LENDERKING

orocco’s cuisine Many Moroccan dishes, including Cucumber and lemon bears testament to tagine, are lent a unique zing by salad the country’s position lemons preserved in a salt-lemon Serves 4 n 20 minutes n EASY at the crossroads of juice mixture. Another interesting REALLY Mmany civilisations and cultures. The local ingredient is , a strong, lemon 1 REALLY salt EASY rich, eclectic fare embraces influences nutty-flavoured oil from the south 1/2 tsp Traditional Moroccan ranging from Arab, Berber, Moorish, of Morocco. It is used as a dressing cucumbers 1 1/2, peeled, deseeded and Moroccan mint tea architecture in the medina area Jewish, Mediterranean, North African for salads, in desserts, and even as a Chef Fouzia very thinly sliced and French. Marrakech and most dermatological product. Habrich has red onion 1/2, very thinly sliced other cities in Morocco have a bustling Bread or is an omnipresent worked at Dar extra virgin 3 tbsp Tafernout, a baked on a Tagine of turnips, zucchini street culture with plenty of motif in Moroccan food, with most Les Cigognes freshly ground black pepper 1/4 tsp bed of pebbles in a clay oven and fava beans options to choose from at hawker bread being baked in communal ovens. for the past dried oregano 1 tsp, lightly crushed stalls, including such as méchoui The seasoning is generous with spices four years as (from a whole grilled lamb), breads, such as ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, the head chef. n Peel the lemons, taking care not meats and salads. cumin, paprika and saffron. It is She learnt how to break them. Remove the white In Morocco, locals espouse the forbidden to throw away bread, so to cook from piths carefully and then section them. communal style of eating. Dishes families give leftover bread to the poor, her mother and Coarsely dice the sections. Transfer to are shared by family and friends. or to their livestock. siblings and a bowl and toss with the salt. The midday meal is the main meal; Morocco is a lover’s paradise. is a dada or n To assemble the dish, arrange the a typical repast begins with a series Cumin is used in almost every Moroccan cook sliced cucumbers on a plate, followed of hot and cold salads. A dish that Moroccan dish and is considered who prepares by the onions, and then the lemon you will find everywhere is tagine, a so important that it is served on the traditional pieces. To make the dressing, whisk slow-cooked stew of meat, vegetables table along with salt and pepper. recipes at together the olive oil, pepper and and lentils, dried fruits like prunes and The ubiquitous spice mix that is sold weddings oregano. Spoon it over the dish and apricots, served in a traditional clay at all spice markets is called ras el and special serve. vessel. , too, is very popular hanout, made with ingredients such as occasions. She here. The fine semolina grain is , monk’s pepper, ash berries, is a specialist in Saffron rice with traditionally hand-rolled before being cardamom, cumin, clove, and the traditional caramelised onions steamed and served with vegetables turmeric. Berber- Serves 4 n 45 minutes + soaking such as carrots, zucchini and local A meal in Morocco usually ends Marrakech style n EASY gourds. Another favourite is pastilla with fruits and sweets dense with of cooking. (also called b’stilla), an Andalusian dish cinnamon, honey and nuts. Many oil 2 cups brought to Morocco by the Moors. desserts are similar to our halwas onions 4 medium, peeled and halved, Its crisp crust is usually stuffed and barfis. A popular sweet treat is thinly and evenly sliced and separated with chicken or pigeon, often with a chebakia, or spiced sesame cookies. unsalted 150g (try hint of cinnamon, almonds and sugar. (continued on p 134) available at gourmet stores)

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cinnamon stick 1 green cardamoms 8 pods, cracked whole black peppercorns 5 basmati rice 400g, washed and soaked in salted water for 3 hours pistachios 5 tbsp, roughly chopped saffron threads 2 pinches, infused in 1/4 cup of boiling water sea salt to taste (try Roland available at gourmet stores)

n To caramelise the onions, heat the oil in a pan (the oil should not come more than halfway up the sides of the pan). Once piping hot, fry the onions in small batches, stirring to keep them from sticking together. Metal lanterns from the Jewish quarter When they are golden brown in colour, remove and drain on kitchen paper, blotting off any excess oil. Repeat until In fact, Moroccans use a lot of dried fruits and served from embellished metal pots and poured done. Keep aside. nuts like dates, almonds, figs, dried apricots and into glasses. Before taking a sip, look the host in n Melt the butter over a medium flame prunes in savoury dishes too. milk, made the eye and say ‘bi saha raha’ which means ‘enjoy and sauté the cinnamon, cardamoms from a blend of almonds, rose water, orange- and relax’. In most Moroccan homes, are and black peppercorns for about flower water, sugar and milk, is very popular served along with the mint tea rather than at the 5 minutes to bring out their flavours. A fresh fruit stall here. end of a meal. The city is dotted with pâtisseries n Drain the rice and add it to the pan, Cucumber and lemon salad at Djemaa el Fna Be sure to sample Moroccan mint tea, or atai — a legacy of the French. The quality of pastries then stir to coat with the butter and (traditionally made with plenty of sugar) that is and cakes is usually excellent. spices. Turn the heat to high, then stir in the pistachios and salt. Add 800ml Tagine pots are a common Saffron rice with water to cover the rice. sight at most local markets caramelised onions LOCAL KNOWLEDGE n Bring the rice to a boil, cover with n Most Moroccans eat with their hands, using the thumb and two fingers of the right hand, a lid, and then simmer for 5 minutes. using pieces of flatbread to scoop up bites of food. Drizzle the saffron water over, cover, n Moroccan mint tea is not just a refreshment, it’s a ritual. It is poured from special silver reduce the heat to low, and cook teapots with curved spouts from high above the table, to be splashed creatively into short for a further 4-5 minutes. Switch glasses. off the flame and let the rice stand, n Street food and fresh produce is everywhere — you must try the local chewy and covered, for 10 minutes. Serve with the pieces of blood-red prickly pears on toothpicks. caramelised onions on top. n The villages between Marrakech and the Atlas mountains are known for their traditional flatbread calledtafernout . It is baked in a clay oven on a bed of pebbles. This method of cooking Tagine of turnips, helps distribute the heat evenly and gives a beautiful texture and colour to the bread. zucchini and fava beans n During the holy season of Ramadan, when Muslims fast during the day, , a thick Serves 4 n 1 hour n EASY chickpea soup made with fresh dates, is often served at night in restaurants and in homes. turnips 3 large, peeled and quartered MENU DECODER lengthwise ✴ AMLOU A paste of almonds, honey and argan oil. zucchini 8-12 small, halved lengthwise ✴ BEGHRIR Honey pancakes made of flour, semolina, yeast, eggs and milk. fava beans (papri) 400g, husked and ✴ Small spring rolls stuffed with meat or vegetables. shelled ✴ CHEBAKIA Fried cookie dough dipped in honey and sesame seeds. olive oil 3 tbsp ✴ KHUBZ Moroccan flatbread. onions 2-3 tbsp, finely minced ✴ MEHELBIYA A classic Moroccan pudding similar to panna cotta made with cornflour, milk, sugar, sweet paprika 2 tsp (try Pote available orange flower water, almonds and cinnamon. at gourmet stores) ✴ A rancid butter concoction like Indian , with the flavour of blue cheese. It is made with white pepper 1 tsp, freshly ground butter, ground semolina and salt. salt 1 tsp

dried powdered ginger 2 tsp MANAVATH JOY Photograph

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n Cut the pastry sheets into uniform MINI GUIDE TO courtyard, a lush garden and fountain circles, each about 20cm in diameter. MARRAKECH as well as a terrace with a great view of Cover the uncooked sheets to prevent EAT the medina and nesting storks, makes them from drying out. Heat 1cm of oil n The gargantuan square, Djemaa el for a unique local experience. Stay at in a deep frying pan. Fry the pastry Fna, becomes packed with food stalls Dar Les Cigognes (lescigognes.com), sheets, 2 pressed together at a time, on by sunset. Most locals have favourite a charming near the Jewish market both sides until pale golden and crisp, stands at this outdoor food court, with stunning rooms furnished with adjusting the heat to keep them from which are numbered for easy reference. traditional fabrics and designs, a hamam turning brown. Drain on kitchen paper. Try the fresh orange juice and the fish and Moroccan cookery classes. (Rooms Prepare 10 such sets and keep aside. ’n’ chips. You will also be offered fried from around `16,000 per night). n Leave the oil in the frying pan. aubergines as well as scrumptious n Luxury seekers should stay at the Brown the whole almonds or walnuts Moroccan dates. Keftas (minced meat) Royal Mansour (royalmansour.com; in the oil. Drain, and when cool, chop and offal stew are commonly sold here. Tel: +212 529 80 80 80) the personal Breads that were baked coarsely or crush. Mix with icing sugar Vegetarians can try the local chickpea project of the King of Morocco. With in a communal oven and cinnamon powder to taste. soup with vegetable couscous. End the Andalusian courtyards and pools, n Blend the cornflour and 4 tbsp of milk meal with a slice of rich spice cake from the hotel has riad-style townhouses Marinated to make a paste. Heat the remaining the hawker carts. (Expect to spend with silk-panelled walls. (Rooms from olives at a souk milk to boil with the caster sugar and approximately 10 Moroccan dirhams). `1,05,000 per night). salt. Stirring constantly with a wooden n If you want to splurge, head to n Another high-end place to stay is spoon, add the paste and cook until the stylish Dar Yacout (yacout.ma) the La Mamounia (mamounia.com; Sweet pastilla with reasonably thick (the sauce should with shiny tadelakt, or polished lime Tel: +212 524 38 86 00), the city’s milk and almonds coat the back of the spoon). Add the walls and scalloped columns oldest hotel recently reopened after ground almonds and perfumed water. crafted in the Moroccan tradition. a three-year restoration. With velvet parsley 1-2 tbsp, finely chopped n Boil the water. Combine 10 mint Whisk until very smooth and continue Owned by brothers Mohamed Zkhiri chairs and silk-shaded lamps, vast mint 1 tbsp, finely chopped sprigs, green tea and sugar in a cooking for 1 minute. Remove from the and Abdellatif, this classy hotel has gardens and Moroccan craftsmanship teapot, then fill it with more hot water. heat and chill in the pan. received heads of states to kings and evident in meticulously painted ceilings n Soak the chopped turnips, zucchini Let the tea brew for 3 minutes, stirring n To assemble, place 2 sets of pastry other dignitaries. Start with drinks and mosaics, this is the place to soak and fava beans in water to prevent the leaves once or twice, then strain sheets on a large plate and sprinkle and canapés on the rooftop terrace, in imperial pleasures. (Rooms from them from getting dry or discoloured. into cups. Garnish with the remaining over half the chopped, browned then follow it up with a seven-course around ` 40,000 per night). n Pour the olive oil into a tagine pot. sprigs of mint. almonds. Cover with 3 sets of pastry degustation dinner. Try their slow- In case you do not have one, use a sheets and spoon over a few spoonfuls cooked tagine makkfoul made with DO saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Toss Sweet pastilla with milk of the milk sauce. Cover with another meat, tomatoes, onions and cinnamon. n Visit Majorelle Gardens in the onions and spices and stir well and almonds 2 sets of pastry and sprinkle over the n For a meal fit for a king, head to the (jardinmajorelle.com), which was to coat. In the centre of the pot, create Serves 8 n 1 hour n MODERATELY remaining almonds. Cover with the Royal Mansour Hotel owned by the created by a French artist and is home a small mound of the fava beans, EASY remaining pastry sheets and spoon King of Morocco and enjoy the food to flora from five continents. It houses and alternating with the turnips and over a few more spoonfuls of milk at their restaurant, La Grand Table buildings in electric blue, canary ✴ PRESERVED LEMONS AND zucchini, lay them all around like a pastry 20 sheets (try Jus Rol sauce. Decorate with strawberries and Marocaine(Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, yellow and terracotta shades as well as OLIVES Take home some of the tepee. Add any remaining beans. Stir in available at gourmet stores) drizzle over honey, if you like. Serve Medina. Tel: +212 522 98 98 04). a carefully curated Berber Museum region’s most prized produce. Head to 1/4 cup of water and sprinkle over the oil 2 cups immediately. n KosyBar (kosybar.com), on the showcasing tribal culture. the local souk to pick up small jars of parsley. whole almonds or walnuts 180g, edge of the Mellah or the Jewish n To learn more about Moroccan pickled olives and lemons. n Cover the pot and cook on moderate blanched quarter, plays lounge music and architecture, visit the Ben ✴ Don’t leave heat over charcoal or directly on the icing sugar 2 tbsp (try Blue Bird HOW TO GET overlooks the Koutobia and Youssef (Tel: +212 632 25 11 640), an without buying a jar of ras el hanout, stove for about 30 minutes until the available at gourmet stores) THERE the walls of the ancient El Badi palace. Islamic school dating back to the14th a spice mix of around 30 difference vegetables are done. Add more water cinnamon powder 1/4 tsp Fly Emirates through Dubai to Try their assorted Moroccan salad Century with beautiful tiles, cedar spices whose name translates to ‘head if required. Garnish with the mint just cornflour 3 tbsp Casablanca and connect by Royal platter and the tagine. panels and stucco. of the shop’. The proprietor of each before serving. milk 1.15l + 4 tbsp extra, cold Maroc to Marrakech. Alternatively, n For a glimpse into local French spice shop sells his own unique — and caster sugar 115g (try Tate & Lyle drive from Casablanca (about a culture, head to the carefully MUST BUY secret — ras el hanout mixture. It’s Moroccan mint tea available at gourmet stores) three-hour trip). Return airfare is restored Le Grand Café de la Poste ✴ ARGAN OIL Argan oil is produced the Moroccan version of our garam Serves 4 n 10 minutes n EASY salt a pinch priced at approximately (Tel: +212 524 42 27 14). Try regional from the nuts of the argan tree (Argania masala. blanched almonds 4 tbsp, ground ` 59,000. Indians need a tourist dishes like tabbouleh and couscous. Spinosa) found in Morocco. Culinary ✴ TAGINE POTS Large ceramic water 4 cups rosewater or orange blossom water visa to visit Morocco, granted by argan is a great dip with bread, and can platters with floral designs and tagine fresh mint 10 sprigs + 4 extra for 2 tbsp the Moroccan Embassy in New STAY also be used in couscous and salads. You pots are sold in most marketplaces. garnish strawberries 10 large, sliced, to Delhi. A multiple entry visa costs n You must stay in a riad — a can use it to make amlou, a bread dip Spoons, ladles and jars made out of green tea 3 tsp decorate ` 2,414. traditional courtyard house, at least for made by grinding roasted almonds and fragrant lemonwood sold at the local sugar 3 tbsp honey 1 tbsp to drizzle (optional) a few nights. The layout, with a central mixing it with argan oil and honey. souks make great gifts.

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