July 1994

P.O. Box 1019, Independence, MO 64051-0519 Phone and FAX 816-252-2276

THOSE WHO, WHAT, WHEN, WHERE From Don Buck's talk, given at the QUESTIONS ABOUT EMIGRANTS CA-NV-HI chapter conference at PlacervilJe, AND EMIGRANT TRAILS California on Feb. 5, 1994.

Who were the emigrants? the article really about emigrants or the So bear with me as I try to get you What is an emigrant trail? emigrant trail? More recently while as­ as confused as I am about answers to When did they exist? sisting Bob Berry in producing the sec­ these four fundamental questions. My Where were they? ond edition of OCTA's Western Emi­ intent is not to give answers but show grant Trails map, I ran up against these you how difficult it is to find answers. At first glance you may think these same four questions. Bob had to make (It will be helpful to follow trail and site are easy questions to answer. After all, some very tough decisions on what trails references on the second edition of the we read and listen to talks about emi­ to include and exclude, which gave me WET map.) Let's begin by defining the grants and emigrant trails all the time. a greater appreciation for the problem. term emigrant as opposed to immigrant. Surely there are ready answers. But are The clincher came just a short while An emigrant is a person who is leaving there? ago when I worked out what constitutes his or her country enroute to settle in Only recently I realized that I had the complex of emigrant trails in the another place or country; while an im­ no clear and definite answers. In my south and southwest, for the purposes migrant is one who has settled in that mapping of the California Trails in Ne­ of designating them National Historic place or country. Notice that both emi­ vada and California for the National Trails. grants and immigrants are considered Park Service, I "settlers." So have had to make far that fits our some tough de­ overlanders. In cisions on what I jumping-off am calling an along the Mis­ emigrant trail. souri River, our Then from time emigrants saw to time, as a themselves as member of the leaving their Editorial Advi­ homeland and sory Board for traveling over­ the Overland land to another Journal, I have place; but had to comment whether always on the appropri­ as settlers we'll ateness of an ar­ have to see. ticle submitted to continued on the journal: Was next page•••• nut NFP deadlin.e Y'~ f, 1994 NFP July 1994 - page 1 • • • • continued notice that these trails were opened in summer of 1849, an emigrant trail or With this in mind, we're ready for the the pre-gold rush period when we had mining road? first fundamental question, Who were genuine emigrants-families settling Perhaps a better question to ask is the emigrants? down-using these overland routes to where do emigrant trails end and local We like to believe they were the reach the Willamette Valley, Sutter's roads begin? Up to the discovery of people who came overland to settle the Fort, or Salt Lake Valley. After 1849, gold in 1848, the Truckee-Donner route trans-Mississippi west, the people we however, things get murky. Very terminated atJohnson' s Ranch, that first honor in our journal, conventions, and quickly in the 1850s, the proliferation outpost of civilization. By late 1849 preservation efforts. Now let me muddy of trails occurred, especially near. the "civilization"-ifthat's what you want the waters a bit. What about the mis­ heavily used routes into California. to call the rough and tumble mining sionaries, like the Methodist Jason Lee Though gold was discovered first near camps in the Mother Load country­ who came overland with a fur trading Coloma, in early 1848, other gold fields had migrated east a considerable dis­ party in 1834 to convert American In­ were discovered in quick succession tance into the Sierra Nevada. In the dians and opened a mission .in the all up and down northern California case just cited, it was at least to Nevada • Willamette Valley of the Oregon Ter­ from Mariposa to Yreka. Gold rush City. A similar problem of determining ritory. Are missionaries emigrants? camps and towns sprung up near or at what makes an emigrant trail occurs in Jumping ahead to the Gold Rush, the diggings with a network of access the way the Beckwourth Trail was should miners be construed as emi­ roads connecting them with the dig­ opened up. In their research, Andy and grants? If emigrants must be settlers, gings and the closest emigrant trails. Joanne Hammond have had to sort out then we would have to exclude great Let me give you an example of where this trail ended as far as it was an numbers of overlanders during the gold what I'm trying to convey. The first emigrant trail-at Marysville, Bidwell' s rush years. What ofthe many who never emigrant wagon route into California Bar, or American Ranch (modern settled in California and returned to was opened in 1844 by way of the Quincy). Traditionally historians have their homes from whence they came, Truckee River and Donner Pass to terminated the trail at Marysville or usually disenchanted with El Dorado? Johnson's Ranch, the first settlement Bidwell's Bar. However, the Perhaps an exaggeration, but one re­ reached by the emigrants. From the Hammonds discovered that local inter­ turning gold-rusher reported, in the ranch, emigrants continued on the ex­ ests had built, from west to east, a wagon Arkansas Gazette on Jan. 24, 1851, "an isting road to Sutler's Fort. Then came road to Bidwell's Bar and from there a immense reaction in the emigration to the Gold Rush and subsequent discov­ pack trail to American Valley by the California, there being five on their ery of gold along Deer Creek in Sep­ time Jim Beckwourth had worked out return to one going out." tember of 1849. Nevada City soon his end of the trail in 1851 from Truckee California was only the first to ex­ sprung up near the Deer Creek dig­ Meadows (modem Reno), northwest perience a gold rush, for eventually gings and, as Jack Steed has brought to over Beckwourth Pass, to American most other western states had a gold our attention, quickly a road was Ranch. rush of varying magnitudes. What of punched to what will become Nevada A related problem in determining the varied types of people and occupa­ City from Johnson's Ranch, via the what makes up an emigrant trail con­ tions, some not so savory, who came in mining town of Rough and Ready. Then cerns some trails in the southwest that the wake of these gold rushes? Must early the next year the Nevada City emerged in the late 1850s. In the south they be emigrants too? The Road was built to take emigrant traffic and southwest the origins of emigrant bullwhackers, gamblers, bartenders, from Bear Valley directly west to the trails is quite different when compared dance hall women, claim jumpers, des­ diggings near Nevada City. This route to the northern trails like the Oregon peradoes? Then keep in mind that many now eclipsed the older, original Cali­ and California Trails. In the complex of the post-1849 overlanders were rac­ fornia Trail from Bear Valley via Steep of trails comprising the Southern Route ing eastward from the far west to reach Hollow to Johnson's Ranch. At this to California, most were opened up to the riches in the diggings, be they in point you may ask, what's so troubling emigrant traffic by the efforts of the Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Arizona. Do about that? Well, to begin with, we are U.S. Government, first during the war they fit the image we hold of emi­ seeing a new pattern emerge in wagon with Mexico in 1846 and later on with grants? Were they traveling on emi­ roads opening from west to east, not surveys conducted for the purpose of grant trails? So this carries me to my east to west, as was the earlier pattern. finding more direct intercontinental second fundamental question, what is Secondly, though these west to east routes to the Pacific Coast. Despite their an emigrant trail? roads did take emigrants-or are they military origins, we can call the routes We can fall back on those old fa­ miners-to new gold fields, were they opened by General Kearny's Anny of vorites and call them with confidence, primarily for emigrant use or supply­ the West, especially that of Lt. Col. emigrant trails: the Oregon Trial, the ing· the miners and mining activities? Cooke and his Mormon Battalion, au­ Califomia Trail, the Sublette Cutoff, What do you call that road from thentic emigrant trails, largely because the Hastings Cutoff, the Applegate Johnson's Ranch to Nevada City (via they were used by gold seekers in the Trail-you've heard of them all. But Rough and Ready) opened in the late continuedonnextpage • • • • • • 1'.'FP July 1994 - page 2 • • • • continued 1859, when a one time trail had be­ where her family completed the jour­ early gold rush years. The same rea­ come a road. Kenneth Holmes, in his ney on a train. We have an unsubstanti­ soning applies to the routes from Ft. multi-volume Covered Wagon Women, ated sighting in Wyoming of emigrants Smith to Santa Fe and Fort Smith to El has the time period spanning 1840 to traveling west in wagons as late as 1912. Paso opened to emigrant travel by an­ 1890. Holmes' Covered Wagon Women Where does this leave us? other military expedition under Cap­ series, notwithstanding, there is an im­ Looking for the origins of emi­ tain Marcy in 1849. plied assumption in much of the his­ grant trails, the date 1841 is customar­ However, what can we call the road torical literature that the westward mi­ ily advanced as the year overland emi­ opened by a government survey under gration-as a wagon trail phenom­ grants-as a migrating party of settlers Edward Beale in 1857-58 from Albu­ enon-came to a close with the comple­ jumping-off at Independence-first querque to the Colorado River. Its name, tion of the transcontinental railroad in made it to Oregon and California. (Dale of course, is the Beale Wagon Road 1869. As we know, however, wagon Morgan has argued that "the first and its extension to Los Angles is the bound emigrants continued using emi­ avowed homeseeker'' to the Pacific was Mojave Road of 1859. In both cases grant trails long after the completion of Joel Walker with his family who ac­ they carried a few emigrants lo Califor­ the transcontinental railroad, either due companied a missionary party to Or­ nia but their main function, as it turned to financial necessity or lack of rail­ egon in 1840 and reached California out, was to supply the military and min­ road links to the more remote settle­ the next year.) If we view those early ers involved in the gold discovery near ments in the west. The last four vol­ missionaries to the Oregon Territory as Prescott in 1863 and the gradual settle­ umes in Holmes' eleven volume series settlers of sorts, then we would have to ment of the Arizona Territory. So what contain overland emigrant diaries and begin the overland emigrant period with is the Beale Road and the Mojave Road, letters dating from 1862 to 1888. Keith 18 34. But there are other historical data an emigrant trail or a freighting road? Arnold told me that his mother came suggesting much earlier beginnings. Trying to answer this question really overland as a child in a wagon bound Unrecognized in this dating takes me to my third fundamental ques­ for California from Salt Lake Valley in scheme, interestingly, is the Spaniard tion: When did emigrant trails exist? 1910; she got as far as Reno, Nevada, (more accurately a criollo) Juan When did they begin Bautista de Anza who and when did they led the first overland end? DONNER PAR1Y emigrating party (193 If we take were settlers to Califor­ OCTA's Western Emi­ At last, the true story of the nia in the winter of Donner Party. Major focus on grant Trails map for the Irish family of Breens, all 1775-76. With our the period of emigrant nine of whom survived the Anglo-American blind­ trail activity, the years winter ordeal in the High ers, we have managed are 1830 to 1870. Sierras. to overlook that His- Merrill Mattes, in Paperback - $14.95 panic historical first. Platte River Road Nar­ Clothbound -$29.95 Anza's colonization of ratives, terminates his California residents add 8% California, over an 1800 listing of emigrant dia­ sales taxes. mile trek from northern ries with 1866, ''the last Add $2.50 mailing, 50¢ Mexico, is not the only significant year of additional copies. uncomfortable histori­ transcontinental cal fact for OCTA. If wagon travel before WINTER OF ENTRAPMENT: we think broadly, in completion of the con­ ANEWW0KATTHED0NNERPAR1Y terms of the settlement necting Union Pacific by Joseph A. King of the trans-Mississippi and Central Pacific west, then we need to --·King's work is so exciting, so original, and so revealing railroads" along the consider emigrant trails that we have selected it for the cover _story of The Californi­ Platte River. John ans" (Jul/Au~ '92) - Michael Sherrell, Editor. in the very early settle­ Unruh, in the subtitle --•... the defimtive work on the Donner Party" ~ historian ment of the area com­ to The Plains Across, Robert Ryal Miller. prising the future states brackets the overland --• ... the flI'st attempt in a generation to review the story of of Texas, New Mexico, emigrant migration the doomed wagon train's 5-month, 2,000 mile journey" - and Arizona. Conquis­ with the years 1840 to Lynn Ludlow, San Francisco Examiner. tadors and padres -"The author not only packs a punch, telling the story with 1860. George Stewart trudged north in 1598 much vigor, but also retains the authenticity of his research" through the Chihuahuan in The California Trail - Michael McCone, Exec. Dir., California Historical Society. brings the emigrant Desert and along the Rio "story to a kind of con­ K&K PUBLICATIONS, P.O. Box 564, Lafayette, Grande to establish the ventional ending" with CA 94549-0564, phone: (510) 934-8196 continued on page 18 • • • • NFP July 1994- page 3 NEWS FROM HEADQUARTERS Jeanne Miller, Headquarters Manager

The Aubrey Haines book, Historic Sites Along the Oregon Trail, has now been reissued and is again being offered for sale. The new edition gives informa­ tion on almost all sites of historic importance along the Oregon Trail, from Independence to Oregon City. Three hundred ninety four sites are located and the distance from Independence is given. 453 pages, 104 photos, 24 maps, bibliography, index. paperback $16.95 P&H 3.00

Trailing the Pioneers, a new book sponsored by the OCTA Crossroads By the time you read this, summer Chapter and published with the Utah State University Press, is a new guidebook will be in full swing. Have you been to Utah's five emigrant trails: Spanish Trail, Bidwell-Bartleson Trail, Pioneer out on the trail yet? (Mormon-Donner) Trail, Hastings Cutoff, and Henley's Salt Lake Cutoff. Writ­ In April, I had the opportunity to ten by chapter members, it includes maps and is dedicated to Utah's early trails see the rugged country near the Gila historians: Charles Kelly, J. Roderic Korns, David E. Miller and Dale L. Morgan. River in Arizona. It was called the paperback $9.95 "Devil's Turnpike" by Lt. Emory in his P&H 3.00 1846 travel with Kearney's "Army of the West". Wagons never traversed The four-part video, Story ofthe Oregon Trail, includes commentaries by this particular trail, but some packers several OCTA historians. Boettcher/Trinklein, television producers of the video, of the gold rush era did make their have notified us that their video won a Telly award - the video equivalent of the way to California through this region. Oscar or Emmy. Although there were 8,000 entrants in the Telly Awards compe­ tition, their video took top prize in the historical video competition. Other winners Next in the past have included National Geographic Society, Ford Motor Co., AT&T, II and NASA. We congratulate OCTA's member, Mike Trinklein and his co­ NFP deadline: producer, Steve Boettcher. II The video is listed in the 1994 OCTA Catalog, page 12. September 1 $49.95 fbr the October issue P&H 5.00 The book, Treasurer, in the Trunk: Quilts of the Oregon Trail, by Mary As our group of Southwest Chap­ Bywater Cross, honors courageous pioneer women and their quilts. Beautifully ter members bounced our 4WD vehicles illustrated with more than 100 color and 50 black and white photos, it recounts the over one of the few jeep roads of the stories of the women whose quilts are featured and their reasons for traveling west area, we could well imagine the struggle and the conditions they encountered. of men and animals to cover this rock­ paperback $19.95 strewn, waterless landscape. We found P&H 3.00 no evidence of that early route, but with several diaries, early maps and present day quads, we attempted to Order from: OCTA, P.O. Bol!C 1019, Independence, MO 64051-0519 puzzle out the probable route, while enjoying the spectacular scenery and early desert bloom. What a trail day!

Send all newsletter items to: Please stop by the Book A reminder: Room during the Salt Lake When you renew your mem­ Rose Ann Tompkins City Convention - bership, please give us your 1125 W. Mission Dr. many booksellers, 9 digit zip code. Chandler, AZ 85224 many books. Thanks (602) 963-3565 NFP July 1994 - page 4 II PRESIDENT'S CORNER II

From our friend. Mike Duwe, Re­ go forward. Mike Informs us that his corporated, require more than 50 gional Long Distance Trails Coordi­ Denver office and Washington are percent of eligible members to cast nator, National Park Service, comes currently drafting a cooperative their ballots In elections conducted offlclal confirmation that funding of agreement between NPS and OCTA by mall for directors. $27,970 has been approved for eight and working out the procedural de­ This means your ballot is impor­ important OCTA projects under the tails. We should know more about tant. not just to elect new Board NPS's Challenge Cost Share Pro­ this by our Annual Board Meeting members, but also to make the elec­ gram. This word follows an alert to on August 9 at Salt Lake City. But we tion itself valid. affected chapters from Bill Watson expect the agreement will allow If the reason you haven't voted some weeks ago that such action ample time after that to get these yet Is that you don't know the can­ was expected. Jobs done. didates well enough, read the blo­ Now approved Is funding for When that time comes. I know graphlcal information you received these Callfornla Trail projects: Map­ that the responsible chapters will with your ballot and make your best ping Nevada Segment ($700); Aerial treat the expenditure and account­ judgment from the information avail­ Surveying ($3,200); Mapping and Ing of these public funds as a spe­ able. The truth Is that every nominee Marking Alternates ($3,000); Map­ cial trust and will carry out these on the ballot would make an out­ ping Yreka Trail ($1,800); and Donner projects In a manner that reflects standing Board member so you Spring Project ($5,000). Also ap­ credit on our association. can't go too wrong. proved are funds for the following The deadline-July 18-is upon Oregon Troll undertakings: Marking On another front. I'd like to stress us. So mark your ballot and get It in ($11.750); Mapping/Inventory to all members the Importance of the mall before midnight this date. ($1.320); and Emigrant Diaries casting your ballot In our current We'll report the results at our annual ($1.200). election for the Board of Directors. convention In August. While these projects have been The nonprofit corporation laws of See you then - at the Cross­ approved, they are not yet ready to Colorado, under which OCTA is In- roads of the West - Salt Lake City.

r ...._ REVENUE ENHANCEMENT PLAN (REP) 1986 OCTA CONVENTION UPDATE II CALL FOR PAPERS In the last issue of the NFP(April) I reported on the results of OCTA's First Annual fund raising drive. Since then we have TftAVEL ON THe received eleven new contributions. The results to date are as NEBRASKA TRAILS follows: Charles Martin, Program Chairman, Endowment Fund $1870.00 has issued a caH for papers for present&- Annual Fund 2950.00 tlon before the 1995 convention winch will Designated Funds: convene on August S.13 at the Midtown Preservation 465.00 Holiday tnn in Grand Island, Nebraska. Archaeology 162.50 MerrHI Mattes wiff give the keynote ad- Trail Marking, G & S 867.50 dress. Next years gathering will coneen- Trail Mapping 27S.OO 'Irate on travel cm the Nebraska prairie COED 200.00 along the Platte River valle~ and the con- Education -0- tributlon of the Mormon emigration to Ne- Special Publications fi~~~.00 braska trail history as a follow..up to the Total Designated Funds 1 8325.00 Salt Lake City convention. The program commfflee prefers that papers be limited As of May 29, 1994 $13,145.00 to &Ubjeets related to those two topics. Communications should be directed to: We are very pleased with this response. Work on the Howell diary is progressing and this should be a banner year for trail Charles Martin marking. Special thanks to the 155 members and Chapters that 282 So. 71 st. Suite E have contributed. Omaha, NE 68132 Jim Budde ... ~ NFP July 1994 - page 5 PRESERVATION REPORTS OCTA RECEIVES NATIONAL AWARD

At the California-Nevada-Hawaii cies which have responsibility for the This award acknowledges, with our Chapter's tenth anniversary dinner in management of this nation's public great appreciation, your contributions San Jose, CA, OCTA was presented lands. to the BLM's Surprise Resource Area. with the BLM' s ''Volunteers for the This award is for every member of Your association has been an impor­ Public Lands" national award. This OCTA. It is recognition that we are tant partner in the research and efforts award is for "outstanding contributions getting the work of historic trails pres­ to protect and preserve the last visible to the management of natural resources ervation done. remnants of the Applegate Lassen Emi­ of the Nation's Public Lands." It is the The award has been sent to na­ grant Trail in northwestern Nevada and BLM's most prestigious award for pri­ tional headquarters in Independence northeastern California. vate organizations. where it will be permanently displayed. Your dedication to trail preserva­ The nomination for the award came tion resulted in special legislation rec­ from the Susanville, California District ognizing the trail and its place in the BLM Office, and it was presented to (Letter below accomp(J!Jied award) history of the United States and Cali­ OCTA by Hugh Bunten, BLM Archae­ fornia. They also have shared this ologist. Hugh congratulated OCTA on knowledge with the public by placing its history of cooperation with the BLM Department of the Interior trail markers and instilling an under­ and for its many contributions to the Bureau of Land Management standing of the need to protect this im­ preservation of this nation's cultural Washington, D.C. portant piece of our past. resources. On behalf of all of us at the BLM, Tom Hunt accepted the award on Dear Mr. Hunt: thank you for your association's volun­ behalf of OCT A, and expressed We are pleased to present to the teer service and for making a differ­ OCTA's thanks to the BLM for their Oregon-California Trails Association ence in advancing our mission to en­ efforts to preserve and protect the over­ the Bureau of Land Management's sure that the Nation's Public Lands and land emigrant trails heritage. He pointed (BLM) "Volunteers for the Public heir resources remain a treasured heri­ out that this task cannot be achieved Lands" national award for its outstand­ tage for all of our citizens. without the close cooperation of pri­ ing contributions to the management of vate organizations, such as OCTA, natural resources of the Nation's Pub­ Sincerely working with those government agen- lic Lands. Jim Baca, Director

NATIONAL OVERLAND TRAILS MARKER SURVEY TO BEGIN

Tom Hunt, National Trails Preser­ chapter presidents and trails preserva­ the trails. It will require investigating vation Officer, announces that OCTA tion officers detailing what will be re­ in towns along the way to locate mark­ is undertaking to survey all of the exist­ quired in these surveys. ers, and it will require filling in the ing overland trails markers in a joint Basically, the survey includes a survey sheets and photographing the project with the National Park Service. description of the location of the marker, markers. The project is to be completed This survey will be of all markers which a township reference, the full text of by the end of 1994. bear a text whether national, state, lo­ the marker, and the approximate loca­ The Trailshead and Gateway Chap­ cal, public, or private in origin. It will tion of the marker on a map. In addi­ ters (Missouri and Kansas) have al­ include all of our own OCTA markers tion, two slides must be taken of each ready completed their surveys, and they with texts. We need this information to marker-a slide showing the marker in have worked out the process. OCTA is determine what has been done in the its environment and a readable close­ very appreciative of this effort on their way of trail marking and what yet re­ up of the text. Two sets of slides must parts, and we want to recognize this mains to be done. There is no national be taken of each marker. One set of contribution. This is volunteerism at survey at present. This project was ini­ slides will go with the survey sheet into its best, and OCTA depends on tiated two years ago along the Oregon our OCTA files; the other will go to the volunteerism to get its work done. Trail. It is now being expanded to in­ NPS. Anyone interested in participating clude all overland emigrant trails. This is a wonderful opportunity in this project should contact their chap­ This survey will be undertaken as for.OCTA members to participate in a ter president or trails preservation of­ a chapter project, and it will be com­ very necessary and meaningful project. ficer for details. If you don't live in a piled on a state-by-state basis. The na­ It is something that can be done at your continued on next page • • • • • tional office has sent materials to all own pace while you are out following NFP July 1994 - page 6 Which Century Is This, Anyway?

The day before three wagons of the Applegate Wagon Train passed through "the narrows" section of High Rock Canyon, in northwestern Nevada, a helicopter landed a high-ranking official of the BLM on a trip to familiarize her with the area. It wasn't quite the past meeting the present, but it gave Chuck Dodd a unique photo opportunity. The narrows is in the background of both pictures; the route through the High Rock Canyon is part of the Applegate-Lassen Trail.

• • • • continued be willing to follow the guidelines set List of Preservation Officers: state with a chapter, this work is still down for the survey. The results must California-Nevada, Tom Hunt open to you. You merely need to sign be uniform to avoid confusion. Colorado, James Bowers up and get instructions from the offi­ It should be pointed out that these Idaho-Montana, William Wilson cials of the chapter which has jurisdic­ surveys could easily be done on the Nebraska, Mr. Kim Naden tion over the section of trail you wish to way to and from the Salt Lake City Northwest, Roy Schapler; survey. You must clear your participa­ convention in August. It is an interest­ Southwest, Sheri Lee (President) tion through the chapter so that we don't ing project, and it gives the participant Crossroads (Utah), Jeff Carlstrom end up with needless duplications. As­ a chance to learn a great deal about the Wyoming, Eugene Potter signment of the surveys will be on a trail and the history of localities along Addresses may be obtained from first-come, first-serve basis. You must the trails. the OCTA Membership Roster. NFP July 1994 - page 7 SALT LAKE CITY CONVENTION UPDATE

Five Utah Authors Present Overland Trail Book Saturday Barbecue Is In separate presentation ceremonies at the state capital, Thursday, June 2nd, Most Popular Convention Governor Michael Leavitt, and Lt. Governor Olene Walker, received copies of Event the just-released, Trailing the Pioneers. Trailing the Pioneers, was commis­ sioned by the Utah Crossroads Chapter of the Oregon California Trails Associa­ Early registration indicates the tion to commemorate the 1994 OCTA National Convention in Salt Lake City. Chuck Wagon Barbecue on Saturday, Five Utah authors, all OCTA members, contributed individual sections dealing August, 13 at Pioneer State Park will with one of the major emigrant trails in Utah. The work, conceived and edited by be the most popular single event of the Peter H. DeLafosse, was written by: OCTA Director, Will Bagley, "Hensley's 1994 convention. An outstanding Salt Lake Cutoff'; Steven K.Madsen, "The Spanish Trail"; Rush Spedden, 'Toe evening has been planned featuring an Basting's Cutoff'; Roy Tea, "The Bidwell-Bartleson Trail"; and Jack Tykal, all-you-can-eat Dutch Oven Chicken "The Pioneer Trail"; with an introduction by Peter H. DeLafosse, and a special and Ribs entre' with a host of other bibliography by Harold Schindler. activities. The 128-page book with 17 maps and 9 photographs will be available at the Guests arriving by shuttle bus will convention or by order from the OCTA Bookstore, P.O. Box 1019, Indepen­ be transported from the parking lot to dence, MO 64051-0519; $9.95 ppr. The authors will be present for autographs at the Bowery by covered wagons. Cov­ Author's Night, during the convention. ered Wagon Rides will continue through the evening bearing passengers to the This Is The Place Monument and Old Deseret Village. Scenic Pioneer Park is Left: Crossroads in a delightful setting at the eastern Chapter president, Al base of Emigration Canyon and marks Mulder, left, presents the site where the view of Salt Lake Utah GovemorMichael Valley was first opened to Brigham Leavitt his copy of Trailing the Pioneers, Young and prompted the famous words, one of two special "This is The Place". editions commissioned During dinner guests will be enter­ by the Crossroads tained by the old time fiddle music of Chapter in conjunction the Cottonwood Gang playing foot with the '94 National stamping Trail and Blue Grass refrains. Convention. It is the The Utah Division of the National Pony combined work of five Express Association will demonstrate Utah authors. the horse changing maneuver which involves the famous pony express mount. The evening will end with a raffle featuring a multitude of Trail related items.

Trial Runs To Iron-Out Tour Bugs

A series of trial runs have been scheduled to uncover any Convention news items provided by tour bugs. A great deal of attention is being given to assure Jack Shapiro, Convention Publicity smooth and enjoyable tours, the adequacy of rest stops, tim­ Chair; Will Bagley and Harold ing, refreshments, printed tour information, tour-guide orien­ Schindler. tation and more. NFP July 1994 - page 8 Lienhard 1s Great-Great-Grandaughter Will Attend Convention

On the afternoon of the 19th of play "Amazing Grace" at the dedica­ August, 1846, Johann Heinrich tory ceremonies. Lienhard, a 24-year-old Swiss emigrant, That haunting melody echoing on who had taken the Hastings Cutoff the periphery of the desert that chal­ across the brutal and scorching salt lenged so many lives, creates a breath­ desert of Utah, reached the fresh water taking mental picture that every OCTA pool now known as Donner Spring on member attending the national conven­ the eastern slope of Pilot Peak. tion will want to experience. lbrough the efforts of the Utah Marta and her husband, Jim Crossroads Chapter of the Oregon-Cali­ Vincent, are parents of two boys, John, fornia Trails Association, a three-rail 9, and Jacob, 7. A native of California, cedar fence has been constructed around she learned of her great-great-grandfa­ Donner Spring along with an informa­ ther (who preferred being called by his tion kiosk detailing its history. middle name, "Heinrich"), from her On the afternoon of Sunday, the own father and grandfather. As a sixth­ 14th of August, 1994, nearly 148 years grader she was assigned to write about to the day of the Lienhard party's suc­ a famous Californian, and she chose, cessful crossing, the Donner Spring naturally, Heinrich Lienhard. monument will be dedicated to the She visited Sutter' s Fort where memory of all the intrepid emigrant Heinrich had been employed, and in companies who conquered the salt the 1960s bought a copy of From St. desert portion of Hastings Cutoff and Louis to Suner's Fort, 1846, edited by found relief at that small oasis. Erwin G. and Elisabeth K. Gudde, the Adding an emotional and dramatic English version of a portion of Heinrich impact to the ceremonies conducted by Lienhard's diary. And from this book Utah Crossroads Chapter, will be the she learned of West From Fort Bridger, Above: Utah Crossroads member, presence of Marta Lienhard Vincent, which J. Roderic Korns and Dale L. Marta Lienhard Vincent, great-great­ great-great-grandaughter of that '46 Morgan, wrote and edited in 1951. granddaughter of emigrant Johann pioneer. To this day, she has not been able Heinrich Lienhard will play the pipes at Mrs. Vincent, who makes her home to obtain a copy of that trails classic. opening and dedicatory ceremonies of in New Orleans, La., is a member of "There are few trail buffs in Louisi­ the 12th Annual Convention. OCTA and the Utah Cro~sroads Chap­ ana," she said. ''That's why I joined ter. She also is pipe major for the Pipes Utah Crossroads." and Drums of New Orleans, and as an In correspondence with Al Mulder, bagpipes and Mulder agreed the per­ accomplished bagpiper has offered to chapter president, she mentioned the formance would be perfect for the oc­ casion; and further, he asked if she would consider accompanying the Mor­ Raffle To Feature Old Transcontinental Railroad Spikes mon Battalion color guard during open­ ing ceremonies of the convention At the beginning of World War II, the U.S. Government began a massive Wednesday morning Aug. 10 at the effort to salvage and stockpile important strategic materials. High on the list was Salt Lake Hilton. scrap iron and steel. The long abandoned 120 miles of transcontinental railway Mrs. Lienhard (Vincent) said she ranging from Promontory, Utah, with its tons of rusting rails did not long escape would be pleased to do so. The music? attention. Before the end of 1942 the last rail had been ripped from its ties and She suggested the first song Heinrich shipped to the salvage yards. The ghostly roadbed remained as the only monu­ sang on arriving in California: it was ment to one of the epic efforts of the Western Expansion. But hidden in the dust "Hail, Columbia." and weeds were a few remaining pieces of history ... the spikes ... rusty twisted "Fortunately, it's possible to trans­ spikes that had escaped the salvagers. pose it to the Highland Bagpipe, so I In mid-1960, Nathan Gallenson a Salt Lake City businessman and his friend, think it would be fitting for the occa­ the late Dr. Richard Kappsa, embarked on a spike hunt in anticipation of the 1975 sion." Centennial of the driving of the Golden Spike. Two small buckets-full were found and now, nearly 30 years later, two dozen remain. Mounted on old, weathered Record attendance ex­ wood plaques, with certificates of authenticity, these will be among the scores of pected, see next page. items at the Saturday night raffle.

NFP July 1994- page 9 Record '94 Convention Turnout Expected Letters Merrill Mattes thought the fol/owing might Early sign-ups show as many as be of Interest to OCTA members. 700 to 800 OCTA members will pack up their wagons and head to Salt Lake Merrill Mattes City this summer for the 12th Annual Littleton, CO Convention. Utah Crossroads Chapter April 14, 1994 will stage the event on August 9 - 14 at Dear Sir: the Salt Lake Hilton. I am quite confused by a statement in your article in the April, 1994, issue of Including daily registrations, the News from the Plains. You state that an "Oregon Trail" out of Council Bluffs final number could easily surpass the never existed as such. I realize that I probably don't understand the rationale record set last year when some 730 behind assigning trail names. The Jacob Ebey family passed through Council turned out for the Oregon convention Bluffs in 1854 on their way to Washington Territory, following the Oregon Trail at Baker City. The 1993 total was swol­ to near Pendleton. At Council Bluffs, they met the "Vermillion" train of Judson len by interest in last year's Oregon and company, and joined with them near Fort Laramie. The Ebeys joined with Trail Sesquicentennial. Headly, Whitesell, and Burr near Gibbon, Nebraska, which would indicate that Easily the most popular of con­ these people also came through Council Bluffs. vention events is the Pioneer State Park Inasmuch as these people (and probably many others) passed through Coun­ Dutch-oven dinner on Saturday, Au­ cil Bluffs on their way to Oregon, I don·t understand why this route cannot be gust 13, with the Tabernacle Choir Re­ considered as a variation of the Oregon Trail. hearsal and the Awards Dinner not far Yours truly, behind, early numbers show. The three Fred W. Dykes events will attract from 60 to 90 per­ Pocatello, ID cent of those who wi11 attend. Virtually booked up are four pre­ and post-convention field trips, mainly April 17, 1994 by four-wheel-drive vehicles, on the Dear Mr. Dykes: Mormon, Hastings Cutoff and Pony Ex­ This acknowledges your letterraising a legitimate question, to wit: Why can't press Trails. Early registration also we call the routes along the north side of the Platte "'the Oregon Trail" since there promises a big turnout at the Genea­ is evidence that during the 50's and 60's some people bound for Oregon Territory logical Workshop and the Donner jumped off at Council Bluffs (and later Omaha). Your question seems reasonable Spring Monument Dedication. enough. Americans have "freedom of speech" and can call a given trail anything they want-and can even publish books on that basis without being jailed. However, the bottom line is that the U.S. Government itself has recognized the wisdom of designating certain major transcontinental historic routes as "National Historic Trails," based on the theory of overall preponderant use plus emphasis on a trail's earlier years. Also, the primary source of information about these trails is the testimony of overland emigrants themselves, as revealed in diaries, letters and in recollections. National Historic Trails to date, west of the Mississippi River are, in orderof designation: Lewis and Clark Trail, Mormon Pioneer Trail, Oregon Trail, Santa Fe Trail, and California TraiJ/Pony Express Trail. These officially designated routes are based on research and recommendation of recognized authorities. Determination of the geography of each trail is based on contemporary descrip­ tions plus knowledge of evidence on the ground. Now what about the Oregon-bound folks later who found it convenient to in, jump off at Council Bluffs or later Omaha? Ditto those bound for California? In ~.u. ,p.,.u my PRR..."'ls I summarize the diaries of over 600 non-Mormons going west along ~.alt £ala eittf the north side of the Platte, mainly to California. That reflects something like 150,000 or more heading for places other than Utah, and for that reason the newly in,~! recognized California NHT follows both sides of the Platte. Significant! y, none of these non-Mormons called their trail "the Mormon Trail" despite Mormon historian claims to the contrary. They called it most often "the northern route" or "the Council Bluffs Road." Henceforward however, maps will show "Mormon continuedonnextpage • • • • • • • NFP July 1994 - page 10 • • • • continued ALCOVE SPRING Trail/California Trail" along the north side of the Platte, and "Oregon Trail/ PRESERVED California Trail" along the south side. Of the 150,000 non-Mormons along the north side of the Platte I would estimate 100,000 to California, the balance of 50,000 distributed among those Another part of the Oregon Trail going to Oregon, Idaho, Montana and Nevada. That's another reason why we can has now been preserved. Alcove Spring have a California Trail, but not an Oregon Trail, along both sides of the Platte. has been purchased by the Alcove No Oregonians of record ever called the north side the Oregon Trail. Spring Historical Trust. As you know, Sincerely, it is a site along the Big Blue River near Merrill J. Mattes Blue Rapids, Kansas. The Donner Reed Party left a lasting impression here when J.F. Reed carved his name on the rocks OCTA and Sarah Keyes died and was buried Independence,MO nearby. March 26, 1994 It has been a working farm for A friend and I drove from Bozeman, MT to the Oregon Coast and stopped at many years with Stella Hammett being a lot of the Oregon Trail sites and exhibitions [last year]. We were so very the last owner. Efforts have been made impressed with Flagstaff Hill area - and spent over 2 hours in the museum. by many individuals and groups to pre­ However, since we are older and have knee problems, we were unable to take the serve or obtain the site many times trek down to the actual wagon ruts, which was a disappointment for us - I want to beginning in 1895. More recently, the include some of those pictures in my album and mementos of our trip. Blue Rapids chamber of Commerce My big question to you is --- would anyone care to share a couple of their obtained a lease to five acres in March photographs of the wagon ruts etc. around the Baker City area, any place else they 1993. Mrs. Hammett passed away a might have occurred (Idaho and Oregon) -- river crossings, Barlow Road etc.? I month later. The organization has been would certainly be willing to pay for the prints (regular size) and any postage. successful in purchasing about 220 Hope to be hearing from you. acres around the site. The spring and Sincerely, waterfall will be kept as it now ap­ Janet S. Herwig pears, much as it was in the 1800s. The 1412 S. Fifth Ave. tract also contains a pasture that has a Bozeman, MT 59715-5522 number of prominent wagon swales. The surrounding pasture land will be returned to the original prairie land as Editor, NFP much as possible. We are currently April 12, 1994 working with the Kansas State Histori­ Dear Rose Ann, cal Society and Kansas State Univer­ I am gathering information for a history of early livestock use in and around sity as technical advisors. City of Rocks National Reserve for the National Park Service. I am trying to We would like to welcome every­ locate information on sheep and cattle drives to California that passed through, or one to visit this piece of the past. If near, the City of Rocks on the California Trail or Salt Lake Alternate. anyone has any information remotely With the discovery of gold in California, and the rapid influx of migrants, related to Alcove Spring or people who there was a sharp demand for beef. At first the need was met by driving herds have passed this way, we would be from Sutter's Ranch and the Spanish ranches in southern California. However, by grateful if you would share it with us. 1849, beef was so scarce that prices in Sacramento ranged from $300 to $500 per head; This triggered large trail drives from Mexico and Texas. In 1852, the Los Duane A. Iles Angeles Star reported 90,340 cattle had passed Ft. Kearney by July, headed for P.O. Box98 California. In 1854, the Star reported 60,000 cattle had been driven to the state Blue Springs, KS 66411 from Mexico. By 1852, the number of cattle in California was estimated at 104,000, increasing to 3,000,000 in 1860 and declining to 630,000 by 1870. The boom lasted only 7 years. By 1856, the market was glutted and prices fell to $15 per Gateway Chapter of OCTA has head. Few cattle were trailed to California after 1856. scheduled a field trip to Alcove Spring If any OCTA member has information on these early stock drives, please for June 25th. A representative of the write me. Alcove Spring Historic Trust will be Sincerely, their guide at the site and will update Bill Little them on plans for the site. 3313 Oregon Trail Dr. Kimberly, ID 83341 NFP July 1994 - page 11 Stephens-Townsend-Murphy Party of 1844 by Jim Rose An Update of the Sesquicentennial Celebration

In the last issue of News from the Plains, I wrote a brief history of the STEPHENS - TOWNSEND - MURPHY Stephens-Townsend-Murphy party of 1844. I told of their adventurousjour­ First Wagons ney west and of their opening of the over the Truckee Route of the California Trail. I Sierra Nevada tried to point out how very important it was to recognize this courageous group of pioneers in this the sesquicentennial year of their historic journey to Cali­ fornia. Well, fellow OCTA members, do I have news for you. First and foremost, our application to name a mountain peak in honor of Elisha Stephens at the Sierra Nevada pass he helped to open 150 years ago was officially approved Captain Elisha Stephens by the USGS on May 10, 1994. At long last Elisha Stephens will get the just recognition that has eluded him for far 1844 too many years. This marks the first geographic feature along the entire por­ Marilyn Rose designed the above logo especially for the September 24 dedication of Mount Stephens. tion of emigrant trail he helped to pio­ neer which will carry his name - Mount Stephens. the rock monument unfortunately will add a little pioneer spirit to the festivi­ The other piece of good news is have to wait. A major construction ties. Of course the main event of the that our application for federal funding project, which will make much needed day will be the sesquicentennial cel­ for a monument dedicated to the repairs to the old arch bridge at Donner ebration of the opening of the Truckee Stephens-Townsend-Murphy party has Summit is currently under way, and all Route of the California Trail by the also been approved. The funding is cur­ traffic over the old pass road will be Stephens-Townsend-Murphy party. rently going through the bureaucratic shut down for the next two years. But Because of the closure of the old process, but we should have the neces­ we can still have our dedication cer­ pass road over Donner Summit, it .is sary money to cast the plaque in the emony celebrating the sesquicentennial very important that anyone attending very near future. The construction of of the Stephens-Townsend-Murphy the ceremony please drive up from the party and their historic achievements, Donner Park side of the pass, from and the naming of Mount Stephens as Truckee. Also, please try to carpool up NEWS FROM THE PLAINS well. I am currently working on getting the hill to the ceremony site; the space the needed money from the grant funds, where we will be holding the ceremony Is published quarterly by the to have the plaque cast as soon as pos­ is very limited. If we all work together Oregon-Califomia Trails Association to P.O. Box 1019 sible, so as to have it on display for all on this, I know it will be a moment Independence, MO 64051-0519 to see at the dedication ceremony on remember. Saturday, September 24, 1994, 1:00 to If you have any questions about The Association disclaims any respons~ bililyfor statements or facts or opinions eicpressed 3:00PM. anything to do with the dedication cer­ in sigled conlfibutions. The Association is not The dedication location is the emony, please call me at (916) 265- responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photo­ "China Wall" turnout, which is just 3754 or Mary Mueller at (408) 268- graphs, artwork, or other materials submitted for below the Donner Lake Overlook at 7389. We will be more than happy to editorial consideration. answer any questions you may have. I The Association Is fully responsible for its the pass. There will be the usual content, except as indicated. The entire con­ speeches and such, and I am trying to hope to see you at the summit on Satur­ tents of News From lhe Plains is copyrighted get a few local people who own cov­ day, September 24, 1994. and may not be reproduced without permission. ered wagons to bring their outfits to Rose Ann Tompkins, Editor

NFP July 1994 - page 12 CHAPTER NEWS ]I

GATEWAY CHAPTER TEACHES TEACHERS ABOUT THE TRAIL \. The Oregon-California Trail and sion dealt with how the trail has been St. Joe Road and the historical marker the emigration of the mid-I 800s was marked and commemorated-begin­ at the Kansas and Nebraska border. the topic of a graduate course for 20 ning with Ezra Meeker and the Ameri­ The focus for emigrant quotes during teachers of the St. Joseph area. The St. can Pioneer Trails Association and up the tour was the 1844 migration since Joseph Museum, Pony Express National to the Oregon-California Trails Asso­ this year marks the 150 anniversary of Memorial and the Missouri State Teach­ ciation. National Historic Trails were the first emigrants to jump-off from the ers Association offered the class also discussed and the addition of the St. Joseph area. through Northwest Missouri State Uni­ California and Pony Express Trails to One of the goals of the class was versity. Marilyn Taylor and Jackie that system. that by acquainting the teachers with Lewin taught the class with special aid The highlight of the class was a 12 some of the really interesting details of from Dr. Francis Peniston and Richard hour bus trip along the St. Joe Road. the migration and its significance to St. Nolf All are chapter members .. The teachers crossed the Missouri Joseph they could see possibilities for Class sessions were held in the River, climbed the bluffs and rode out passing the information on to their stu­ community room of the Pony Express into the Kansas prairie. The first pause dents. The nearness of the St. Joe Road National Memorial in mid-April. That was at Mosquito Creek which was also and the sites are an area that Gateway date was chosen to coincide with the usually the first campsite for the emi­ members believe those teaching his­ time of year that wagon trains departed grants. Next, the tour went on to the tory of the area should be aware of. from St. Joseph. Marilyn Taylor and Wolf River crossing. At the Iowa-Sac During the last session, the teach­ Jackie Lewin gave an overview of the and Fox Mission, the teachers stopped ers wrote a journal entry for their day trail - why the route was chosen, his­ for a tour of the site. Other points of on the trail and also worked in groups tory of early travelers, the purpose of interest visited were Prairie Spring in making a mind map of the St. Joe the migration, who the emigrants were Campground, the Nemaha River cross­ Road. and what it was to travel the trail. ing, Alcove Spring and the Big Blue The first time of offering the class Francis Peniston gave an in-depth look Crossing, Hollenberg Station, the junc­ was a successful one and there were at illnesses along the trail. A later ses- tion of the Independence Road and the requests to offer it again next spring.

Above: During their all day trip on the trail, teachers from the St. Joseph, Missouri, schools gather around tha marker for the junction of the St. Joe Road and the Independence Road. NFP July 1994- page 13 SOUTHWEST Symposium Weekend a Winner

The chapter's Fourth Sometimes gave us the theory of it being one evi­ Annual Trails Symposium was held dence of early visitors to the Americas. March 19 in Las Cruces, NM. Forty­ Harland Tompkins, Chandler, plus attendees from at least four states AZ, - "A Little Road of our Own" the and Canada, heard a good mixture of result of continuing personal research. presentations. This original wagon road, used in and Local arrangements chairman, Jim out of Strawberry, AZ, has been traced Carter, worked with the Dona Ana using oral tradition, early maps, a GPS County Historical Society to find the (Global Positioning System,) and well appointed auditorium. Program ground and air search to pinpoint its Chairman, Harland Tompkins, put to­ location. gether nine speakers for the event, seven Jack Root, Tucson, AZ, -"Search of the them being chapter members. for Tres Alamos" related results of his Presentations were: original research. An area on the San Don Couchman, Las Cruces, - "A Pedro River north of Benson, AZ was Above: Charles Townley of Las Cruces, Road of Many Names: Development of the location of a burial that a present NM was one of the speakers at. the the Southern Emigrant Route.'' He has day relative was trying to find. Again chapter symposium. done extensive research on the trails through various types of sleuthing, Jack history of southeastern New Mexico, thinks he has found the burial site. of his research on this man, disproving especially the Cooke's Spring area. Susan Badger Doyle, Albuquerque, many earlier stories about Weaver. Fol­ Lynda Hatch, Flagstaff, AZ- "Shar­ NM - "Emigrants and Soldiers on the lowing his talk, he offered for sale his ing the Love of Trails with Children." Northern Plains, 1860s." The interac­ recent booklet about his research and As an educator, she was able to give us tion of the emigrants and soldiers on the donated the days' proceeds to the chap­ ideas about how to interest children in Bozeman Trail and that impact on the ter. the trails. native population is of continuing in­ There are plans to publish a pro­ Charles Townley, Las Cruces, - terest to Susan. ceedings to include many of these pre­ "Records of the Archdioceses of Sheri Lee, Tucson, - "Tales of a sentations. Durango, Mexico from 1612 through Frontier Town: Las Vegas, NM." This On Sunday morning, a bonus of the the 1860s." He told of a recent project book, a collection of writings, will keep weekend was a morning spent in a car to microfilm the Spanish records of a anyone interested in this western town caravan led by Don Counchman. We time period that often includes items on the Santa Fe Trail. visited various historical Rio Grande impacting U.S. history. Jim Byrkit, Flagstaff, - "The Trav­ River crossings used in the 1800s, trav­ Gordon Owen, Las Cruces, - "The els of Pauline Weaver in the American eling from a location south of Las Meaning of the New Mexico Mystery Southwest." Weaver spent many years Cruces north as far as Hatch before Stone." This large, inscribed stone has in the southwest as it was gradually heading for home. This viewing of been researched and interpreted, and he settled by anglos. Jim gave us results crossing locations helped put a variety of readings into perspective. Rose Ann Tompkins

Left: General Stephen Watts Keamy's Army of the West camped at this Gila River location on October 26 & 27, 1846. In the .foreground, Deadman's Wash leads to the river, while across the river the actual camping area at the mouth of Bonita Creek (called the San Carlos on Emory's map) is visible. It is felt by researchers that the trail led out of the so-called "Devil's Turnpike", down Deadman's Wash and to easier travel. The Southwest Chapter visited this area during an April outing.

NFP July 1994- page 14 CALIFORNIA-NEVADA-HAWAII TENTH ANNIVERSARY

The second speaker was Jim Rose A dedication of a new tombstone, THE FOUNDING OF THE from Nevada City. He gave a very care­ given by the Memorial Park and placed CHAPTER by Mary Mueller fully researched narrative with slides by the delegation of OCTA members to illustrate the trek west and the fear­ was the first order of the_ day. Appro­ As we celebrated the Tenth anni­ ful ascent of the impassable summit by priately, the speaker was 92-year-old versary of the Chapter, we honored the the Stephens-Murphy-Townsend Party. Clyde Arbuckle who had remembered founders of our prestigious chapter. (See the April 1994, News From The exactly where it should be. On April 14, 1984, Thomas H. Plains). He has led the Nevada County A map keyed to the thumbnail (Himself) Hunt called together mem­ and OCTA sponsored quest to name a sketches of 25 selected pioneers coin­ bers of OCTA in Palo Alto to form a peak after Elisha Stephens. (See page cided with red markers placed by the Chapter. The program which followed 13 for more on the dedication of Mt. Oak Hill Memorial Park for us. Many included a display of artifacts, and slide Stephens.) are of people whose diaries and trails presentations on the Carson Trail, Tours after a wonderful luncheon we have followed. Truckee Emigrant Trail and the Cali­ spread were divided into two groups, Plans by the committee of Argo­ fornia Trail from Independence Rock so as not to overwhelm the Fallon House nauts are to double the size of the book­ to Central Nevada. and the Peralta Adobe with all 136 par­ let at a later date as they have time. In the business portion of the meet­ ticipants. There are many more early pioneers ing, the members voted on seven goals The Peralta Adobe dates back to who deserve to be recognized. The Oak for chapter achievement, including the the 1790s. and is the oldest building in Hill Memorial Park people were so ex­ first tour of the Black Rock Desert and San Jose. It was built by Manuel cited by the book that they purchased the proposal to host a convention in Gonzalez, an Apache Indian and one of 100 copies and ordered more. If you 1986. Ten years later, two National San Jose's Founding Fathers. Luis have an interest, copies can be ordered Conventions have been hosted success­ Maria Peralta was, at 18, also one of through Beverly Hesse. fully to accolades: Carson City in 1986 San Jose's pioneering settlers. He and We returned to the Italian Gardens and Sacramento in 1991, with plans for his family also lived in this two room for a fine dinner and a speech by "Him­ Elko in 1996 gaining momentum. The house, where he died in 1851. self' who had organized the first and frequent outings have become highly Across the street is the mid 1850s. largest Chapter of the Oregon-Califor­ effective tools for education, trail map­ house built by San Jose's seventh nia Trail Association ten years ago. ping, marking, maintenance and fel­ mayor, (American Period), Thomas Chuck Dodd introduced the guests and lowship for participants. We have be­ Fallon and his wife, Carmel, a native of spoke about Tom Hunt's accomplish­ come the largest chapter and perhaps Mexico and the brains of the family. ments. Hugh Bunton, the Archeologist the busiest. He and his family lived there from 1858 for the Cedarville Susanville BLM gave to 1878. Captain Fallon raised the first an award of recognition to Thomas H. CELEBRATION AND American flag in San Jose in front of Hunt for all of the work he and others the juzgado, (jail) during the Mexican from OCTA have done in preserving CONFERENCE War in 1846. and mapping the trail through the Black by Mary Lou Lyon The other half of the Conference Rock Desert and High Rock Canyon members went to the Oak Hill Cem­ Area. Tom said that the award would On April 16 & 17, the chapter met etery first, using a well researched and be placed in Independence at headquar­ in San Jose for a delightful two day illustrated guide prepared by Patricia ters. He then followed with some conference. The day began with brunch, Loomis with the aid of Clyde Arbuckle, awards of his own and a short talk. followed by three speakers. city historian and John Milne, Family The Third Speaker on Saturday Jack Douglas, the first speaker, Sevice Director of the Cemetery. Other morning was Kitty Monahan, who appeared in full dress Civil War Uni­ Argonauts who were in Clyde• s class spoke on the New Almaden Quicksil­ form complete with sword and gun. for many years were also involved, es­ ver Mines. Her instructive talk outlined Assuming the role of General Henry p ec i ally Barbara Dorr, Bonny the history of the mercury mining first M. Naglee, he regaled the audience with Chohrach, and Virginia Hammerness. by the Indians for the red cinnabar ore comments on many of the The first burials by the Pueblo of they used and traded for body paint to "Overlanders" who came to the area in San Jose were there in 1839. Many of the first Spaniard, Andres Castillero the 1840s. The General had come to the very early graves had wooden mark­ who had called it the Santa Clara Mines. California on the Susan Drew in 1847 ers which have succumbed to the It became a very important part of the with a troop of ''randy soldiers." He weather, earthquakes and grass fires. mining story in the Sierra and also in could describe those who were present Many "Overlanders" found San Jose as the Comstock Lode of Nevada since when he arrived as well as later arrivals The End of Their Trail. mercury was needed to extract the gold in the time period up to the Civil War. continuedonnextpage • • • • • • • NFP July 1994 - page 15 • • • • continued ous points, we were encouraged to hike and silver from their native matrix. to see some of the ruins of the mine. IDAHO Without it, the history of the years of The lunch stop was on a plateau with a mining in the "Mother Lode" could not beautiful vis~ and picnic tables. An­ The chapter had a field trip May have been the same. other truck unloaded a feast for us to 7th to mark a grave at the Les Brodie Her speech was preparation for the enjoy. After the barbecued chicken and Ranch. The present owner found out Sunday excursion at New Almaden. homemade cookies, we listened to an from the original owner that a nine­ We started with brunch in the Haci­ interesting man, Freidolin Kessler who year-old emigrant girl had been bitten enda village where early ado be miner's had been stationed there on the hill by a rattlesnake the day before arriving cottages are still occupied. A chapter with the CCC as the resident artist dur­ at the ranch area. The people in the meeting was led by President George ing the Depression. wagon train asked if the girl could be Hesse in the village hall. At 11 a.m., we Five hours later, we returned to buried in a ranch field. The emigrants moved to the foot of the mountain now our starting point to visit the New buried the girl and piled rocks over it. belonging to the New Almaden Quick­ Almaden Museum and to say our good Mr. Brodie had never disturbed the silver Park to board the beds of open byes. We parted, knowing much more grave, and he wanted it marked to pre­ trucks for a guided tour up and over the about the early history of California, serve the site. mountain. Kitty stopped the procession the importance of the San Jose Area The ranch is located by the Craters often to explain what it was we were which was the final destination for so of the Moon National Monument, close seeing and what had gone on at that many who made the ruts we usually to the Goodale Cutoff. spot. The hills were a verdant green of follow- San Jose, The End of the Trail. Janece Thornton native plants (especially the poison oak) with flowers sprinkled around. At vari- fii TRAILS HEAD ALL 50 STATES NOW HAVE by Jackie Lewin, Membership Chair Saturday, May 14 was the date of OCTA MEMBERS! our trek along the ''California Trail" as the 1855 Kansas Survey called the Good news! OCTA now can claim guard and his wife is a school teacher. Westport to Lawrence Road. This route memberships from all 50 states. Those He has one teenage daughter. He writes stayed north of the more familiar of you who attended the general meet­ of his interest in history: "We are in our Westport to Olathe to Gardner branch ing at the Baker City convention may mid-fifties and like western history. I of the Santa Fe-Oregon-California trail remember the membership committee spent five years in the Air Force and system. appeal for help in gaining a member was discharged in California. I went to The trail was a connection link from West Virginia. As of February, Oregon to visit with my sister and went between the various Shawnee Indian that membership has been gained to work in a plywood mill. I stayed four Missions as early as the 1830s. It was through the addition of Mr. & Mrs. years but never did take an interest in used as an overland route in the 1840s Roy Pennington of Green Bank, West the Old West. That didn't happen until and 1850s (including Fremont and Virginia, to OCTA' s ranks. I returned home to West Virginia in Parkman). Fin.ally it was extremely The Pennington's heard about 1964. Some locals were digging up important in the 1850s and 1860s. dur­ OCTA through a mailing from head­ Civil War relics with metal detectors, ing the Border War period. quarters to those on the University of and I became interested in the Civil Craig Crease was the wagonmaster Nebraska mailing list. A letter from War and read all that I could find. That for the group which filled a 20 passen­ Merrill Mattes was enclosed in the mail­ interest expanded to include the history ger bus. Other arrangements were ing. Mr. Pennington was on his third of the Old West. My main interest is handled by John Leamon and Jim reading of The Great Platte River Road. from Lewis and Clark' s expedition Budde. Thank you, Merrill, for your part in through the emigrants' migration." Future events include a trek to encouraging the Pennington's member­ The Penningtons have visited sev­ Pottawatomie County, Kansas on the ship. Mr. Pennington would also like eral sites along the Oregon Trail and Oregon Trail in September and a sym­ for someone to "do a book of the same have "gotten special pleasure in walk­ posium in October. caliber on the trail from Fort Laramie ing in those very tracks." If you have a Ross Marshall to Oregon City." chance to meet the Penningtons out on It is always interesting to learn the trail please give them a strong something about OCTA members. Mr. OCTA welcome. Pennington is a semi-retired security NFP July 1994- page 16 Fischer•s Series Leads to Trail Travel by Bruce Johnson

During the day of cheap airfare, non, and talked to people dressed in became quite knowledgeable. She was why would I risk the modern day peril period costumes for another two hours. impressed by the historic importance of traveling the Oregon Trail in a After lunch it was a short jaunt to Guern­ of the sites and the beautiful scenery. minivan with two young children and sey. We thoroughly enjoyed getting Nettie eventually gave up writing in an uninterested wife? As a fifth grade lost in the wagon ruts. Just as fascinat­ my log and she put the kabosh on stop­ teacher, I've always taught my students ing were the countless signatures carved ping at every historical marker during about the Oregon Trail in a halfhearted by emigrants at Register Cliff. When the stress of the second day . All in all manner. It was the trail people followed we reached Casper at 3 PM we made a she was a real trooper for putting up to Oregon, until last spring during the horrible realization, we were having with my various stops and side trips. sesquicentennial of the Oregon Trail. too much fun. Unfortunately, we had Although the Oregon Trail offers My journey on the Oregon Trail only traveled 175 miles and we had some wonderful attractions its most re­ actually started when I began reading almost 300 miles to our planned stop. deeming feature is its people. It is ironic James Fischer's articles on the trail in It would be a long afternoon with that people were the most important the Kansas City Star and then would two cranky children and a dismayed part of the trail 150 years ago, too. We share them with my students. Soon, wife. The rest of the day would be stop, enjoyed the people who made our trip they began reading the articles and focus and shoot. Rather than enjoying on the trail more informative and en­ bringing them in to share. By the time Independence Rock and Split Rock as joyable. Getting to know our fellow the series had finished, some of us had the pioneers did, we rushed them 90' s trailblazers was the most rewarding part fallen in love with the Oregon Trail. I style. When we finally reached Little of our trip. At stop after stop we kept wanted to see its ruts, feel its history America we were greeted by what seeing the same pioneers quenching and hear its passion. Most of my stu­ looked like the World's Largest Truck their thirst for trail knowledge. Seeing dents' summer travel plans would not Stop. By now we were so tired we persons you recognized from previous include the Oregon Trail; I would have would have slept in a covered wagon. stops reaffirmed our mission and revi­ to bring the trail to my students. I guess bringing our children on talized us. Just like the pioneers, fatigue was the trip made the experience complete. If I would have known how much a problem for us, especially when you They adjusted to the rigors of the mod­ I was going to enjoy the trail's gentle wake up at 4:00 AM to begin a 1300 ern day trail-probably better than we meanderings, I would have gone all the mile trip. The problem is, fatigue is did. They walked, sometimes ran the way to Oregon. But this is the 90's and slightly more dangerous at 65 miles per Oregon Trail. Windlass Hill was the we have schedules to meet. Since we hour. Plus the pioneers never had to only exception. Nettie and I got double were going to Montana, I regretfully deal with the hypnotic effect of listen­ our exercise when we carried the boys left my friend at Pocatello, Idaho. We ing to "Old McDonald's Farm" count­ up most of the hill. had traveled nearly 1300 miles, eaten less times. There was never a dull moment on too many times at McDonalds and taken It has been well-documented that the trail with my four year old son eight rolls of film. Now that winter the emigrants got lost on the trail, or Ryan. His constant chatter and ques­ slips into spring I am getting the itch to took ill-advised short cuts. The .times tions kept us amused and awake. He hitch up the van, listen to Ryan ask if we were lost weren't life threatening, wanted to know how we knew all this we are there yet and capture some more just inconvenient to a family of the stuff. It is amazing how gullible a four­ trail memories. For now I'll carry the 90's that likes to see everything as year-old is. Ryan was also afraid of summer trail memories with me for­ quickly as possible. rattlesnakes on the trail but he was ec­ ever. They'll be as ingrained in my I imagine the pioneers miscalcu­ static when he saw a live one on the mind as the wagon ruts on the trail. lated the distance between campsites. road from the comfort of our van. He Possibly, they spent too much time at wanted to stop to see the next dead deer ••••••••••••••••••• Independence Rock or Register Cliff but fortunately we never saw another • • • Future OCTA Conventions • carving their names in the rocks. Maybe dead one. • • as a result they might have spent a Two-year-old son Alex had his • 1995 • night at some ungodly campsite. Tiris moments also, but was content to ride • • • Grand Island, Nebraska • happened to us on the second day. We in the van with his (din-din) blanket • • left the hotel at 8 AM to see Scotts and pacifier. As long as he kept his • • 1996 Bluff National Monument. After being pacifier and we provided the music and • • • Elko, Nevada • captivated for two hours by the creviced snacks he was happy. • • beauty of this weathered landmark and My wife showed real growth dur­ • • 1997 the surrounding majestic vistas, we went ing the trip. When we began our expe­ • • • Pocatello, Idaho • to Ft. Laramie, where we walked its dition, Nettie knew very little about the • • spacious grounds, shot a pretend can- Oregon Trail. By the end of the trip she •••••••••••••••••••• NFP July 1994 - page 17 • • • • continued from page 3 region of Texas.) Thus, trying to disen­ wagon roads. Examples are the Lander first overland settlement in the Spanish tangle roads used by gold rush emi­ Road of 1858, the Beale-Mojave Roads province of New Mexico. A little later, grants from roads used locally by Tex­ of 1858-59, and the Central Overland in 1609-10, they founded its new capi­ ans becomes nearly impossible. Road of 1859 stretching across central tal, Santa Fe. Spain's first attempt to The Texas frontier, however, was Utah and Nevada. This latter road, sur­ colonize Texas came in 1731 with the only one southern jumping-off region veyed and improved by Capt. Simpson establishment of a civil settlement at for overland bound emigrants during of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, the mission of San Antonio ( which had the Gold Rush. For the first time, the served in quick succession not only been founded in 1718). In Arizona the Santa Fe Trail out of Independence emigrants but the Pony Express, mail Spanish colonial outposts of Tubae and changed from essentially a commer­ and stage lines, and the first interconti­ Tucson date from 1752 and 1775. cial/trading trail to one used also by nental telegraph line. Then in 1862 a With all of these beginning dates emigrants bound for California. In ad­ major silver strike at what quickly be­ in mind, we could postulate an over­ dition, a good number of emigrants took came Austin, in central Nevada, turned land emigrant time frame from 1598 to the Fort Smith to Santa Fe Trail, run­ the Central Overland Trail into a min­ 1912, over 300 years! Or we could ning along the Canadian River, and ing-freight road. keep our secular Anglo-American fo­ even the lesser known Fort Smith to El Prior to the Civil War, stagecoach cus and narrow it down to 1841 to Paso Trail, traversing northern Texas. lines made their appearance on the west­ 1869. Take your pick. Depending on In the southwest, most of the 49er traf­ ern landscape linking up major cities, what time frame you select, you will fic eventually funneled to the Gila River like Salt Lake City and San Francisco. run head on into my fourth fundamen­ and the Yuma Crossing of the Colo­ Such luminaries as Mark Twain, Horace tal question, Where were the emigrant rado River and then across the desert to Greely, and Sir Richard Burton used trails? Warner's Ranch, the first settlement and wrote about the Salt Lake to San In the widest application, emigrant reached in southern California. Esti­ Francisco state line. With stagecoaches trails cover the trans-Mississippi west mates vary, but anywhere from 12,000 carrying more affluent emigrants as pas­ but the conventional practice is to be­ to the recent estimate by Patricia Etter sengers, should we call stage routes, gin them at the jumping-offplaces along of over 20,000 gold rushers, including "emigrant trails"? A case in point is the the Missouri River, between Indepen­ Mexican miners from Sonora, made it famous Butterfield Overland Mail stage dence and Council Bluffs. That ac­ to California by way of the Southern line that linked Saint Louis with San counts for the Oregon Trail, California Route in 1849. Those figures mean that Francisco via a southern route from Trail, and the Santa Fe Trail. When we a fourth or even a third of the total 1858 to 1861, when the Confederate turn to the Southern Route, the picture migration to California in 1849 came army seized the southern trails and is not quite so tidy. American settle­ by way of the various southern trails. forced the Butterfield enterprise to re­ ment of eastern and parts of southern And this does not factor in the numbers route their stage line to northern trails. Texas began much earlier than it had who traveled on the Old Spanish Trail The bewildering picture that for Oregon or California. When Texas and Mormon Trail to Southern Califor­ emerges almost defies description. By proclaimed its independence from nia. The magnitude of the gold rush the late 1850s and early 1860s, western Mexico in 1836, estimates have Ameri­ traffic on the Southern Route should trails and roads had become so diverse, can settlers outnumbering the Mexican compel OCTA to broaden its view on overlapping, and interconnected that inhabitants bJ as much as ten to one. what forms main corridors of emigrant sorting out what is an emigrant trail So if we assume eastern and southern travel. from mining, freighting, mail, and stage Texas is analogous to Missouri, in the After 1849, emigrant trails prolif­ roads in the west is packed with prob­ sense that by the 1840s both had been erated as quickly as new gold fields lems. The decades following the settled by Euro-Americans, then the were discovered up and down northern completion of the transcontinental rail­ jumping-offplaces in the south for emi­ California. To name a few: the Nevada road created even greater complexities grant travel to California in the Gold City Road of 1850, the Beckwourth for the emigrant trail historian, as my Rush would be Fredericksburg (settled Trail of 1851,Johnson's Cutoff of 1851- last two examples will demonstrate. The by immigrant families from Germany 52, Nobles Trail of 1852, Henness Pass difficulty in determining what com­ in 1846), San Antonio, and gulf ports Road of 1852, Walker River-Sonora prises an emigrant trail, or when they like Corpus Christi and Brazos Santiago Trail of 1852, and Yreka Trail of 1852. existed, or where they were comes from (at the mouth of the Rio Grande). A With gold discoveries following in Ne­ the recent and last volume in the Cov­ glance at the Western Emigrant Trails vada, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, and ered Wagon Women series. In his in· map will show a web of roads leading Arizona, during the late 1850s and early troduction to the last two diaries, Ken­ out of the gulf ports in southern Texas 1860s, emigrant-mining-stage-freight­ neth Holmes points out that the Springer either to San Antonio, Austin, and ing roads popped up everywhere. By family, on their way to eastern Oregon Fredericksburg or to Mexico. (To sim­ this time the U.S. Government got into from Missouri with a wagon party in plify the southern area, the map does western road building, first with sur­ 1885, followed at various times the not display all of the main roads in this veys, followed by construction of new continued on next page • • • • • • • NFP July 1994- page 18 Ii ii

• Robby Gunstream will con­ tinue his walk on the trail begun from St. Joe in 1991 with Harlan Wadley and the infamous mule, Jackson. (See March, 1992 NFP for the tale of that walk.) This summer he will journey fromSweetwaterStation, WY, to Wells, NV, via South Pass, Sublette's Cutoff, Bear River valley, Hudspeth's Cutoff and City of Rocks. He will be joined by six companions and a string of pack animals. They will leave Sweetwater • This February Photo by Joseph W. Fairfield shows the progress on Station on July 17 and hope to be in construction of the Chimney Rock Visitors Center. The center, located just to the Wells toward the latter part of August. east ofChimney Rock (visible in background), should be open for summer visitors. Those that wish to correspond with the group are welcome to do so. All •••••••••••••••• words of encouragement or otherwise will be gratefully received and cheer­ • Stanley B. Kimball reports • OCTA member, Virginia fully acknowledged. Write care of Gen­ that he will conduct his 9th annual Great Hammemess was recently featured in eral Delivery, Montpelier, ID 83254 in Western Trails Travel Study course the San Jose Mercury News as part of time for delivery by July 30. from August 1 to 8 this summer. Stu­ Women'sHistoryMonth. Sheisamem­ dents take this course for history credit ber of the CA-NV-HI Chapter and edi­ •••••••••••• from Southern Illinois University at tor of the chapter newsletter, Trail Talk. • The Oregon Trail marker in Edwardsville. Virginia is the granddaughter of Nampa, Idaho was recently rededicated. This summer he will take his stu· A. P. Giannini, the San Jose-born This DAR marker, orginally placed in dents from the Guernsey, WY area over founder of what is now the Bank of 1926, rededication was part of the Or­ the trail to Salt Lake City. Since he America. In the article she spoke of the egon Trail sesquicentennial celebration. will be delivering a keynote address at childhood visits to Santa Clara Valley At the ceremony, OCTA member and the OCTA convention, he has sched­ of California, and the beauty of the Regent of the EEDAHHOW Chapter uled this trip in order to conclude be­ area at that time. of the DAR, Mildred Skinner, acted as fore the convention. MC, while OCTA board member Larry Jones was the speaker.

NOTICE

Next year, News From the Plains • • • • continued The family then boarded a passenger will start a new section by, for, and original Oregon Trail, an old overland train for Portland, arriving two days about our younger readers. We need stage road, railroad right-of-ways, and later! And so ended the overland emi­ your drawings and stories about the even boarded a train for part of their grant wagon experience. overland trails or your adventures on journey. In 1888 the Hampton family Well, I trust I've left you just as field trips or in libraries. Subjects can party from Kansas, wagon bound for perplexed as I am about answers to be based on facts or fancy, and we're interested in everything from poems to Oregon, struggled along roads in Kan­ these four fundamental questions on puzzles to pictures. Send me your sub· sas to reach the old trail along the Platte emigrants and emigrant trails. I prom­ missions and suggestions on what to River, then switching to the Overland ised there would be no answers. Hope­ call this exciting new department. Trail through southern Wyoming, and fully, however, you will be more un­ after 59 days, tiring of the hardships, derstanding and tolerant of us trail buffs Will Bagley abandoned the trail at Fossil, Wyoming who are trying to make intelligible an 1451 Kensington Ave. (near the Utah border), and loaded their inherently unintelligible phenomenon Salt Lake City, Utah 84105-2647 wagons and teams on a freight train. called emigrant trails. NFP July 1994. page 19 Nonp«,fit Org. U.S. Postage OBEGOH•C&Ll:rolUGA 'l'I\A.ILS &880CIUIOH PAID lndep. MO P.O. Box 1019 / Independence MO 64051~19 Permit No. 244