ISSUE 236 • Summer 2020

www.chilternsociety.org.uk

Butterflies in decline The Chilterns on film Small businesses, big hearts

CAMPAIGNING • CONSERVING • PROMOTING ISSUE 236 • SUMMER 2020 www.chilternsociety.org.uk In this

Butterflies in decline The Chilterns on film Small businesses, big hearts

CAMPAIGNING • CONSERVING • PROMOTING Small tortoiseshell butterfly (Photo: George issue Stebbing-Allen)

News & views

3 Editor

4 UNPRECEDENTED TIMES From the Chairman, Simon Kearey

4 Heritage Festival update

5 SMALL BUSINESSES, BIG HEARTS Tribute to local suppliers

12 Farewell after five years 6 Vicky Askew looks back 13 BLIND WALKERS APPLAUD SOCIETY CHILTERNS VOLUNTEERS on Film Howard Dell reports

16 MAKE A DIFFERENCE Volunteering opportunities

24 dON’T LOSE YOUR WAY! News of a vital footpath project

28 HS2 UPDATE Project given the green light

32 lETTERS

34 ECHOED LOCATIONS Help to record the sounds of the 16 Chilterns Make a Heritage difference 6 THE CHILTERNS ON FILM Bob Stuart explores the BFI’s National Archive

10 TAKING A POSITIVE LINE The Editor visits Chinnor & Railway

30 HIDDEN CORNERS OF TRING John Hockey goes exploring on foot

33 ALEHOUSE TALES From Helen Matthews of the Save Our 22 Pubs Group MANIFESTO FOR Conservation CHILTERNS WILDLIFE 23 CLOUDS AND SILVER LININGS News from Ewelme

2 Chiltern 236 At the time of writing From the Editor Richard Bradbury

There is, for obvious reasons, a delay between the copy deadline for each issue of Chiltern and ENVIRONMENT its publication date. That’s why you’ll sometimes find included in an article the phrase ‘at the time of writing’, because circumstances may change in the interval between the piece being 29 NO LET-UP FOR FARMERS written and its appearance in the magazine. Suddenly, however, the phrase has acquired a whole Work goes on despite the pandemic, new meaning as we try to adjust to the realities of Covid-19. writes Gill Kent Outside the window it’s strangely quiet and still through – or perhaps that’s not entirely accurate: many is having of the man-made sounds are suppressed, incalculable WILDLIFE or indeed absent. Nature, meanwhile, is implications celebrating the arrival of spring: the birds are in across the 22 MANIFESTO FOR CHILTERNS full voice; nest building is well under way; trees globe, and will WILDLIFE and shrubs are rapidly turning green; flowers continue to do 26 BUTTERFLIES IN DECLINE and blossom are bringing spectacular colour so for a very A call to arms from George back into the landscape. I’ve never appreciated long period; Stebbing-Allen as much as I do now the glorious spectacle but I would the four flagpole cherries in our front garden like, briefly, give us at this time of year. For those of us to focus on a with easy access to the natural world this is consequence Leisure truly an opportunity – albeit one imposed on that in this us by a cruel disease – to pause and revel in life and death 8 dOWN BY THE RIVERSIDE our immediate surroundings, because, for the situation may Photo: Richard Bradbury Cycle routes along Chiltern waterways moment, places further afield are beyond our seem trivial, but is nonetheless significant 14 Hurley walk reach. for a great many people. In the Chilterns, as Thankfully, at the time of writing, we can elsewhere, much of the work of voluntary 18 GETTING PERSONAL still enjoy the Chilterns as long as we behave organisations like ours is essentially at a Barry Hunt introduces a new feature on responsibly and don’t stray too far from home standstill. You’ll notice that this is a slimmed the Photogroup’s website or stay out too long. In one sense, ironically, down issue of Chiltern, reflecting the 19 PHOTOGROUP COMPETITION this puts us in a better position than we were impact of the pandemic on our activities. when a previous plague stalked the UK – I The summer 2019 magazine included an 20 COMFORT FOOD? refer to the last outbreak of foot-and-mouth eight page pull-out giving details of the Martin Pearson extols the virtues of disease, which virtually closed the countryside Society’s Heritage Festival. Sadly, because home-cooking for several months. A crucial difference there’s a possibility that the 2020 Festival 21 RECIPE between the two events is, of course, that this may have to be cancelled, the decision has Lamb pilaf with home-made chapatis time it’s human beings who are dying, not been taken not to include the programme livestock – although it’s sobering to remember here. (More information on p4). One can 35 wAlks programme that foot-and-mouth resulted in the death only feel sympathy for the dedicated team 36 IMAGES OF SPRING of 6 million cows and sheep, and devastated of volunteers and staff who planned it, and sections of the farming community. In 2020, for volunteers everywhere who are unable, by contrast, farmers are one of those groups at present, to channel their enthusiasm and who are still hard at work – the fruits of their energy into the causes they believe in. labours are, after all, crucial to the rest of us, I hope they stay healthy, and that before as Gill Kent’s article on p29 reminds us. too long they’ll be able to pick up where they

scan here for www.chilternsociety.org.uk We’re all aware that what we’re going left off.

DEADLINES REPRODUCTION OF IMAGES It is not possible to guarantee that items received after The photographs in this publication must not be the deadline will be included in the next issue, unless a reproduced elsewhere, except with the express prior arrangement has been made with the Editor. permission of the photographer via the Editor. If you do not wish your photographs to be used in other SENDING COPY AND PHOTOGRAPHS Published quarterly by The Chiltern Society Society publications, please make this clear when you Please email text as Word attachments. Pictures should send them. Editor: Richard Bradbury • 01494 793049 be sent as jpg attachments. High resolution images Email: [email protected] are required for publication, although low resolution The Society does not necessarily accept images can be sent as samples in the first instance, if responsibility for the views of contributors or the Advertising: Sophie Elkan preferred. Please indicate the quality of images sent, claims of the advertisers. Email: [email protected] entitle your pictures and delete any numbers. Design & typeset: Clickdraw • 01392 841100 Print: Hartgraph • Amersham on materials Deadline for issue 237 (September 2020) produced by environmentally friendly processes. Items to the Editor by: Monday 29 June • Published: Saturday 29 August email: [email protected] 3 society NEWS Unprecedented times our team and members of the public. You might have imagined that green spaces would provide the support that many people craved in this exceptional situation – unfortunately, however, even these have to some extent only been accessible by people who live locally. Nevertheless I hope that all those living in close proximity to the Chilterns have been able to take advantage of our remarkable landscape. The situation does provide a unique opportunity for many families who may never have set foot in this terrain to experience what it has to offer, and it may lead to them developing a life-long passion for the natural environment. Time doesn’t stand still, so plans for the future are still progressing and we look Walkers near Ayot St Lawrence (Photo: Colin Drake) forward to holding a range of events later in the year, as well as the AGM in the autumn. From the Chairman Simon Kearey We hope to see some of you there. Our new membership campaign had a successful Well, these are very unprecedented times, as has been said publicly recently. I couldn’t launch earlier in the year and we’re making agree more. preparations to develop this further, especially once the current restrictions are lifted. There’s been a ‘call to arms’ for the Chiltern been looking forward to attending events, It’s been mooted that we should all take Society and its members to step up to the courses and a whole range of other exciting lessons from the enforced changes as a result current challenges facing all of us, not least projects planned for this year. In common of Covid-19 and that perhaps things may HS2, urban development and chalk stream with other organisations we’ve had to review never be the same again. In some respects management, and we’ve been working to put these along with the rest of the Society’s this can be seen as exciting, particularly given those plans in place. programme, to ensure that we follow some of the positive impacts on the natural In that regard, I’d like to take this government guidelines while at the same environment. opportunity to apologise to all those who’d time protecting the safety and wellbeing of Stay well and safe. Chilterns Heritage Festival 19 September-4 October 2020 At the time of writing, given the ongoing Covid-19 situation, we’ve decided against publishing the full Chilterns Heritage Festival programme in case it doesn’t go ahead.

We are, of course, closely monitoring advise members and supporters to check government guidelines, and very much hope our website (www.chilternsociety.org.uk) that we’ll be able to deliver the programme for further updates. A final update will be due to be published a few weeks before the as planned, if it’s reasonable to do so. We provided in the next issue of Chiltern, which is Festival is scheduled to take place.

PATRON: Rt Hon The Earl Howe Chief officer: Tom Beeston PRESIDENT: Michael Rush Head of conservation & development: Gavin Johnson VICE PRESIDENTS: Chiltern Society Office: Tracey Read Michael Colston Esq White Hill Centre, White Hill, Chesham, Mark Getty Bucks HP5 1AG John Taylor Tel: 01494 771250 CHAIRMAN: Simon Kearey Email: [email protected]

Please re-cycle this publication RRegisteredegistered CharityCharity no.number: 1085163 1085163 Share it with family, friends and work colleagues - before recycling! Company limited by guarantor number: 4138448 A company limited by guarantee, Sonning no. 413448 Green Gym working at the Beds (Photo: Tom Stevenson)

4 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 5 NEWS & Views Small businesses, big hearts

No. 2 Pound Street

Vicky Askew pays tribute to local suppliers Lacey’s Family Farm during the Covid-19 crisis It’s not just the big supermarkets who’ve been working tirelessly to keep us all well fed Easter eggs from Rumsey’s Chocolaterie, during these uncertain times. At the Chiltern Society we’ve been blown away by how who unfortunately had to close their shops many local food and drink businesses quickly adapted to meeting new requirements and as the crisis began to escalate. Lacey’s stepped up to unprecedented challenges. pledged to return every single penny of profit made from the sale of the Easter It’s been more important than ever to Yummy cheeses, chutneys, cured meats and eggs to Rumsey’s. Now that’s what we call support local businesses, and we’re grateful essentials delivered by the friendly team and community spirit! for all they’ve done to provide such great Cheddar the dog – what more could you www.laceysvegboxes.com service in recent weeks. There are far too need during isolation? many to count, but here’s just a snapshot www.2poundstreet.com Puddingstone Distillery & of some of the amazing local suppliers and Mead’s Farm Shop producers who’ve helped keep our local Wild Strawberry Café A great example of teamwork! This famous communities going! The famous café in the yurt at Peterley little gin distillery just outside Tring has Manor Farm came up with the ingenious stepped up and helped its neighbour, Mead’s Knead Pizza idea of delivering afternoon tea hampers Farm Shop deliver fresh fruit, vegetables Our friends at Knead Pizza, who cook up directly to the door. They pride themselves and other delicious goodies to those people the most delicious pizzas in their beautiful (rightly so) on their delicious, freshly baked in the local community unable to leave their vintage van at pop-up locations across the goodies, so it’s great that we’ve been able home. Chilterns, introduced a range of ‘contactless to continue to enjoy them from home. The www.pemeadandsons.co.uk pizza’ initiatives to keep customers supplied farm shop has also been working tirelessly www.puddingstonedistillery.com while maintaining social distancing! They to fulfil orders via its new click and collect introduced a nifty click and collect service, service. Quarantine Coffee Van home deliveries to the doorstep, and gift www.peterleymanorfarm.co.uk We love this story of local business vouchers for people to purchase for isolated collaboration. Three local coffee shops, friends and family who could do with a nice Lacey’s Family Farm Sycamore in Amersham, The Pantry in doughy treat! The twins and the team at Lacey’s, near and Two H Coffee in Great www.knead.pizza Lane End, have worked round the clock Missenden, came together to give us the to keep their farm shop shelves stocked. Quarantine Coffee Van! Delicious hot No.2 Pound St They quickly managed to create a new drinks, freshly baked cakes and other treats One of our favourite delis, with great wine website enabling people to collect delicious delivered directly to the door Monday- to boot, No.2 Pound St introduced a free care packages filled with local essentials Friday. Ideal for all those working from home delivery service for residents in including milk, bread, eggs, fruit, vegetables, home and in need of a caffeine fix! Wendover and its surrounding villages. sausages and mince. They also stocked www.quarantinecoffee.co.uk/our-menu

4 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 5 CHILTERN HERITAGE

The Chilterns on film

Bob Stuart explores the BFI’s National Archive

Films that capture the life and times of the Chilterns, spanning more than 100 years, are later King Edward VIII. Another film captures being rescued, restored and released thanks to an 80-strong team of imaging experts based local merrymaking in the form of a 1950s in . Founded in 1935, The British Film Institute’s (BFI) National Archive has now performance by the town’s Morris men become what’s possibly the world’s largest film and TV archive – and it’s still growing. The strutting their stuff outside the Rex cinema current centre opened in 1987, and its unique collection of films and related items – now watched by a sizeable crowd. numbering several million – dates from as early as the 1890s to throughout the 20th century. Other period pieces captured by amateur film makers bring to life the local training As well as a vast collection of British feature map or by inputting a name into a search exercises of the county’s special constables and short fiction films, there are no less box, it will bring up a list of films that are free during WWII and, by contrast, a merry bevy than 20,000 silent films. Also included are to view – wherever you are in the UK and of 1920s ‘flappers’ frolicking in the snow at 75,000 television titles, plus advertising, whatever kind of device you’re using.’ Champneys health resort near Tring. The animation and non-fiction films, such Typical of the films available are those aristocratic and notorious denizens of West as those commissioned by government that paint a picture of life in the Chilterns Wycombe’s Hellfire Club are the focus of departments. This extraordinarily wide over more than a century. At the click of a a 1955 Discovering Britain series featuring and varied collection is a treasure trove of mouse, for example, viewers can visit idyllic John Betjeman. A collaboration between footage that traces the recent history of rural scenes around Amersham in the 1920s, the journalist, poet and broadcaster and the Britain as captured on celluloid. It brings to featuring pitchforks, hay carts, cornfields Shell oil company, the 26-part series was life everything from the efforts of amateur and wooded valleys, some unchanged to commissioned to accompany the famous film makers to scripted documentaries. this day. Even earlier is the 1911 footage Shell Guides. Among the Archive’s current major featuring the folk of Hitchin celebrating the So popular is Britain on Film Player that projects is Britain on Film, a programme coronation of King George V. Some appear the project has clocked up more than 75 to make such films available to the general to be more interested in the camera than the million online views, including those film clips public. Funded over five years by central festivities, such was its novelty at the time! watched on social media. ‘It’s tremendously government and the National Heritage By coincidence the film arrived at the Archive gratifying that these films, collected over Lottery, it aims to digitize some 5,000 films exactly 100 years after the event. Like many many generations, are having this kind of from the archives and put the results on films made before the 1950s, it was shot on impact,’ noted Patrick. ‘It shows that most the BFI Player website, making them freely combustible, nitrate-based stock requiring people have a real connection to either the available to all. ‘The Player allows you to special storage. Many film studios were place where they live or perhaps where they zero into a map of the country,’ said Patrick unable to comply with tough new regulations came from, or maybe where they have some Russell, the Archive’s senior non-fiction and instead donated their film stock to the kind of family connection.’ curator. Patrick’s is one of five teams that Archive, where it’s kept safely. In some cases such films may not have maintain and develop the BFI’s collection. He Another Royal occasion was the 1935 been seen for 20, 30, 40 or even 80 years. went on to explain, ‘Just by clicking on the visit to Berkhamsted by the Prince of Wales, They arrive at the Archive from a number

6 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 7 of sources and in a variety of conditions. controlled master preservation store arrests As well as footage shot by amateur movie any further deterioration of the original. makers, other sources include film libraries, Another veritable Aladdin’s cave of production and distribution companies items, this time non-film material, has or just private individuals who’ve perhaps been accumulated by the Archive’s Special discovered long forgotten films in lofts. Collections team. This comprises such Although much arrives in the popular formats memorabilia as stills (two million), posters beloved of film makers over generations, (15,000), costume and production designs, such as 70mm, 35mm, 16mm, 8mm and promotional material, scripts, story boards Super 8, others are more obscure and from and, more recently, the working archive of another era, such as huge 2-inch tapes. More legendary film maker Ken Loach. Following recent sources include material on VHS, a digitization programme, some 80,000 Betamax and U-Matic tapes – the latter once images from the stills collection can be popular with the professionals. Surprisingly, viewed at the BFI’s Reuben Library on some films from the 1890s have arrived London’s South Bank. The set and costume in perfect condition. Others require the designs may also soon be searchable. expert attention of the centre’s conservation A keen supporter and benefactor who specialists, who decide how best to clean provided essential early funding to the and repair the film using photochemical or Archive was philanthropist John Paul Getty digital resources. Jr., an avid film buff and great Anglophile, ‘We get prints, sometimes negatives. who died in 2003. As a reminder of his Sometimes pictures missing sound or sound contribution, the film projector from his missing pictures,’ said Patrick. ‘As far as former home cinema now has pride of place about the events and places they were possible, we try to represent the film as it in the projection room at the Berkhamsted seeing, we wondered how we could capture was seen in the first place, using various archive or, to give it its rightful name, The BFI this information. The result is Contribute, a techniques to take it back to the quality of John Paul Getty Jr. Conservation Centre. platform that allows viewers to get involved, the original.’ Sometimes the Archive receives As a result of its success, Britain on by adding information about particular several copies of the same footage. These Film Player has now become something scenes, people and places, for example. can be viewed simultaneously and the of a two-way activity, as Patrick revealed: Naturally, we’d be very interested in any sequences of the highest quality selected ‘Because of the huge amount of positive contributions from Chiltern readers.’ from each. A humidity and temperature- feedback we were getting from the public Photos courtesy of the BFI National Archive

 DRAUGHT & BOTTLED BEER TO TAKEAWAY  LIMITED EDITION BREWS  EXPERIMENTAL BREWS  GIFT VOUCHERS  T-SHIRTS & GOODIES  GOLDEN TOAD MEMBERSHIP  PICKLES & PRESERVES  BREWERY TOURS

In 2020 our Monthly Specials will be raising funds and awareness for Chilterns Dog Rescue Society.

Dunsley Farm, London Road, Tring HP23 6HA N 01442 890721 D www.tringbrewery.co.uk

LEGENDARY BEER FROM .

6 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 7 Cycle group

Down by the riverside near Berkhamsted (Photos: Colin Drake)

Greg Neal describes some attractive routes along Chiltern waterways

Normally, during the summer months, the Thursday Group is more likely to venture away from tarmac surfaces than when conditions are less pleasant. This includes using those tracks and towpaths alongside rivers, canals and lakes where cycling is permitted. These routes appeal to many cyclists because they’re generally free from motor traffic and, in addition, those of us who appreciate the wildlife in the Chilterns find that many birds, insects and other creatures can be seen near water.

Chiltern rivers and streams Chalfont St Peter before joining the Colne. through the Hertfordshire Chilterns, The Thames flows along the southern The Misbourne is particularly vulnerable eventually feeding into the Colne. The Ver boundary of the Chilterns AONB, through to environmental changes due to the has its source near Kensworth, and follows Wallingford, Goring and Mapledurham, and underlying geology: the level of the water a route near Markyate and Redbourn, further east through Henley-on-Thames table can fall below the impermeable but surface water is now rarely seen in and Marlow. Much of the towpath forms layer of rock above the chalk aquifer in the upper reaches of the valley except part of The National Trail the riverbed when rainfall is low, causing after heavy rainfall. Further south, it flows and is well used by cyclists, including the the water flow to dry up along much of its through St Albans, Park Street and Bricket Thursday Group. Tributaries of the Thames, length. It’s possible to cycle beside parts Wood, where it meets the Colne. Apart including the rivers Colne and Thame, are of the river in Amersham and on quiet from short sections around St Albans, also situated adjacent to the Chilterns, with roads close to other stretches elsewhere, the Ver is not accessible on a bike. The riverside paths accessible on a bike. including riding through the ford on Mill Bulbourne rises near and flows Upland chalk streams are regarded Lane in Chalfont St Giles. The Chess rises through the centre of Berkhamsted, close as a globally scarce habitat, and are a in Chesham and is named after the town, to the Grand Union Canal, before joining key landscape feature of the Chilterns. which was recorded in the Domesday the Gade near Apsley. It’s only possible to The rivers Chess, Misbourne, Ver, Gade, Book in 1087 as Cestreham, on a site which cycle those sections of the river alongside Bulbourne and Wye, together with the had already been inhabited for several the canal towpath, but it can be seen from Hughenden Stream and Hamble Brook centuries. The Chess Valley Walk follows several bridges in the town. The Gade rises constitute a large area of chalk stream the river for ten miles from Chesham to from a spring at Dagnall, flows through habitat within the AONB. The geology and Rickmansworth, close to its confluence with Great Gaddesden and Hemel Hempstead, wildlife of chalk streams has been covered the Colne, but is only a footpath and is not then closely follows the Grand Union Canal in previous issues of the magazine, most open to cyclists. There are, however, quiet through Kings Langley and Cassiobury Park recently in numbers 231 and 233. lanes through the Chess Valley with views in Watford to Rickmansworth, where it joins The Misbourne originates from a across the river, and these are included in the Colne. It’s possible to cycle along some spring near Great Missenden and flows some of our rides. sections of the Gade in Hemel Hempstead through Amersham, Chalfont St Giles and The Ver, Gade and Bulbourne flow and near the Grand Union Canal.

8 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 9 Canals in the Chilterns AONB The Grand Union Canal passes through the Chilterns between Berkhamsted and Tring, where the towpath is open to both walkers and cyclists. It’s frequently used by our cycle group because it provides good access to pubs and cafés for lunch and refreshment stops. Two small branch canals link the Grand Union Canal near Marsworth with Wendover and Aylesbury. The route followed by the Wilstone Reservoir (Photo: Richard Bradbury) Aylesbury Arm mainly passes through flat open countryside, with footpaths alongside Misbourne in the grounds of Shardeloes was described in more detail by Jim Conboy it. It’s possible, however, to cycle along the Manor House. A wide variety of wildlife has in the autumn 2019 issue of Chiltern. A towpath for short distances in Aylesbury. been recorded around the lake, which is planning application has now been submitted The name Wendover is derived from the bordered by a footpath to Little Missenden to the local councils for the first phase of ancient Celtic (Brittonic) language and and is visible from the A413, although the the Greenway between Wendover and Great means ‘white water’ referring to the chalk latter isn’t a pleasant route for cyclists. The Missenden, with the intention of starting stream which flows into the middle of area around Tring and the Grand Union Canal construction work as soon as possible. the town, bringing chalk deposits on its includes Startops End, Marsworth, Tringford Chiltern Society footpath maintenance way. The Heron Stream was channelled in and Wilstone reservoirs; College Lake, a volunteers have cut a path along the 1799 to create the , flooded chalk pit, is nearby. Several paths proposed Greenway route through the dense but the original source still exists near St around the Tring lakes are accessible on a undergrowth either side of the Chiltern Line Mary’s Church at the southern end of the bike, and are used on our summer rides. at the Deep Mill bridge between Great and town. Parts of the Wendover Arm have Further south, in Rickmansworth, we Little Missenden, allowing Network Rail to been drained, and the footpaths beside the cycle on the Grand Union Canal towpath investigate the proposed new underpass. The dry stretches aren’t suitable for bicycles, which gives access to the Aquadrome initial reaction was favourable, and it’s hoped whereas the towpath along the canal from and several other lakes in the Colne Valley Network Rail and the landowner will give Wendover and through Halton provides a Regional Park, where over 60 species of consent for the path. very pleasant cycling and walking route. The breeding birds have been recorded, in canal attracts much local wildlife, including addition to migratory ducks in winter. Thursday Group Rides several pairs of dabchicks, a colony of Following guidance from the mandarin ducks, and water voles, which Updates from previous Government and Cycling UK, all Chiltern are very shy and normally avoid people articles Society organised cycle rides have been (especially large groups of cyclists). In the winter 2019 issue of Chiltern, I cancelled for the foreseeable future referred to the artworks along The Phoenix and we don’t know when they will Lakes and reservoirs Trail, which I’d seen in previous years. A local be restarted – probably not until late Large natural lakes aren’t a feature of the cyclist who regularly rides along sections of summer or autumn. In the meantime, chalk uplands of the Chilterns, but there are the trail has told me that, sadly, many of the if you’d like information about the many man-made lakes, flooded gravel pits sculptures are now in a very poor state of groups, there are details on the Society’s and reservoirs in the area. These are popular repair or have been removed. This appears website. Alternatively please contact places for bird-watching, because many to be a consequence of a lack of funds for Ken Davies on 01923 779140, Graham species of waterfowl can be seen there. maintenance. Trent on 01727 833771 or Penny Nokes Shardeloes Lake, to the west of I also mentioned the proposed Misbourne on 01494 864681. Amersham, was created by damming the Greenway footpath and cycle route, which

27 High Street Chesham HP5 1BG Tel: 01494 771267 www.healthright.co.uk

8 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 9 CHILTERN HERITAGE

Taking a positive line

Richard Bradbury visits Chinnor & Princes Risborough Railway

Like so many members of my generation I have a degree of nostalgia for the ‘good old days’ of rail travel – although in truth I’m not sure how good they actually were. I do remember, however, the excitement of standing on a bridge with my father somewhere near Kings Langley, waiting for steam trains to burst out of the Watford tunnel and roar beneath us, covering us in clouds of smoke. I don’t think I’m imagining it.

Perhaps it’s not surprising then, that all The station building and platform at the various parts of the site, and indeed over the UK there are popular heritage lines Chinnor, where the heritage line is now to some of the key volunteers, a lot easier. run by hosts of volunteers, enabling us not based, were demolished in the early 1970s. The knowledge and enthusiasm of Ray and only to relive our past rail experiences but Maintenance of the branch from Chinnor his colleagues, whatever their role in the also share them with younger generations. to the junction with the Thame branch organisation, was truly inspiring. C&PRR A prime local example is Chinnor and near Princes Risborough was given to the currently has between 70 and 80 active Princes Risborough Railway, and shortly Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway volunteers, some of them railway industry before coronavirus took away our freedom Association in January 1990, and in 1994 veterans, and an overall membership of I was fortunate enough to spend a day a Transport and Works Order established about 3,000. We began our tour on the there, together with my friend and fellow the legality of the C&PRR’s status, meaning platform, which is now long enough to Chiltern Society member, Keith Hoffmeister. that passenger services could recommence. accommodate four carriages. Pride of Originally known as the Watlington and A new platform suitable for two coaches place goes to the reconstructed station Princes Risborough Railway Company, the was ready by May 1994, and the restoration building, where the former booking office line ran between Princes Risborough and of operational passenger and goods stock now houses a well-stocked gift shop. Pyrton near Watlington, and eventually had was also completed that year; the first In 2002 the building won an Iain Allen a number of intermediate stops, including public service since 1957 ran on 20 August, Heritage Award, which was presented by Chinnor. Subsequently owned for many with round trips to Wainhill Halt. In April the Princess Royal. Next to it is a railway years by the Great Western Railway, it 1995 the passenger-carrying line was carriage that has been converted into the carried passengers until 1957. It was used extended some two miles to Cambrian Tea Room, selling everything for goods and parcels for a few years after Lane. A further extension to Thame Junction from chocolate bars to bacon baps and that, but in 1961 the section from Chinnor opened at the start of the 1996 season. cakes. There are lavatories in a converted to Watlington was closed and the track A great deal has happened since then, corrugated iron hut that acted as a store lifted. The section from Chinnor to Princes as soon became clear after our host for the for paraffin lamps in the GWR era. Just Risborough was retained to serve the day, Ray Gomm, met us at Chinnor Station. beyond the end of the platform is the cement works and a wood yard, but in 1989 The fact that we were visiting towards the signal box, which was brought down from operations on the line ceased completely. end of the ‘off season’, made access to Cheshire. Here we were given a fascinating

10 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 11 introduction to the time-honoured Princes Risborough, where C&PRR has family occasions like birthday and wedding procedures which ensure that the line built its own platform which, Ray proudly celebrations can also be catered for. A operates safely. It was emphasised that pointed out, was constructed of higher new offering for 2020 is ‘Rock Around nobody is permitted to enter without the grade materials than those used in the The Chilterns’, a collaboration with the signalman’s permission. station’s other platforms. Moreover, Chilterns Conservation Board, which Further down the track is the C&PRR has a 99 year lease on the Princes features rail journeys led by local experts Restoration and Engineering Centre, a 48 x Risborough North signal box, which enjoys talking about the landscape, and interactive 10 x 5.5m steel framed building with metal Grade II listed status. Sterling efforts craft activities at Chinnor Station. It isn’t clad walls and roof, where volunteers can by volunteers haven’t only rescued the only those attending special events that work on rolling stock, presided over by building from a state of dire disrepair, but generate passenger income, however. Ray the Carriage and Wagons Manager, John mean that it can once again fulfil its original told us that local people also use the line to Smith. His involvement is the continuation purpose, safely controlling C&PRR’s train go shopping in Princes Risborough. of a lifelong interest in old vehicles, which movements in and out of platform 4. As the There are other important sources of started with his father’s traction engine. Chiltern scenery drifted past the carriage income too. The Railway is often used for He explained that although the Centre is window, Ray told us that in years to come filming, two examples being Midsomer equipped to carry out many aspects of they were hoping to link the line up with Murders and recently, Silent Witness. The the necessary repairs and refurbishment, the final short stretch of track (overgrown latter apparently involved a long-suffering restoration from scratch is the province at present), which would allow them to extra lying across the track for several of CTMS, the commercial arm of the East operate completely independently of hours! In various locations during our visit Railway. There are about 80 Network Rail’s infrastructure. we encountered a group of young people in heritage lines in the UK, providing an A vital part of Ray’s brief is to high vis gear who turned out to be graduate invaluable network of mutual support. generate income. It’s an endeavour trainees from Network Rail learning about Some replacement parts are purpose-built, he and his colleague Phil Marsh, the different aspects of running a railway, surely either in-house or by outside specialists, Railway’s Commercial Director, take very an indication of the esteem in which C&PRR and spare parts are sometimes swapped. seriously. Worthwhile though they may is held by its commercial counterpart. ‘We very rarely throw anything away!’ John be, enterprises like C&PRR are, of course, By the end of the day Ray and his fellow added with a smile. The process can be money pits and a steady flow of income volunteers had given us a wonderful insight expensive – it costs £450 to restore a single is the only way to ensure they have the into what it takes to run a heritage line like bay of four seats in a carriage. C&PRR has resources to achieve their objectives. The C&PRR. At the time of writing their work a certain amount of rolling stock of its own, 2020 Timetable features an ambitious has come to a halt because of coronavirus, but also borrows some from other lines, programme of events, most of them and it remains to be seen how much of including steam locomotives from South themed, from Teddy Bear Days aimed their 2020 events programme will survive. . At the time of our visit, there were at children to Murder Mystery evenings. We can only wish them well and hope that, two diesels on loan. Some are linked to specific events and once the crisis is over, they’ll be able to get After lunch in the Cambrian Tea Room, dates like VE Day, Halloween (‘Spooks and back on track and take C&PRR into a bright Ray invited us to take a ride on the train. Ghouls’) and the nearby motor vehicle future. We trundled out of Chinnor towards extravaganza, the Kop Hill Climb. Private Photos: Keith Hoffmeister

10 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 11 society NEWS Farewell after five years and eNews communications, it’s safe to say that our digital brand has come a very long way. As a result we’re increasingly reaching new audiences and a much wider demographic than ever before. I’m also immensely proud of how much our events programmes have grown, including the Chilterns Heritage Festival; events are now a central part of the Society’s offering to the public and I hope to attend many more of them in the future! I’ve also enjoyed developing many fundraising initiatives; from securing corporate sponsorship and a fruitful partnership with NFU Mutual, to launching wildlife appeals and other creative fundraisers, including the annual Christmas Hamper and last year’s Chiltern Way Challenge, which saw Tim Mills run all 134 miles of the route in one weekend! Many of you reading this will have donated to these fundraisers, so I’d like to take this opportunity to extend a personal ‘thank you’. With every donation I genuinely enjoyed a rush of excitement and was reminded that the hard work was always worthwhile! One thing in particular that I’ll take Vicky Askew looks back fondly on her time away from my Chiltern Society experience is just how astounded I am by the sheer with the Society dedication of our wonderful volunteers. It really is true that without them the charity At the time of writing it’s my last day working for the Chiltern Society. When I started in simply wouldn’t be able to function. I’ve February 2015, I couldn’t have imagined how much I’d achieve over the next five years or been fortunate enough to get to know many how much I would have to be proud of. volunteers very well indeed. The kindness and interest they’ve consistently shown It’s safe to say, however, that I wouldn’t least beginning to return to normal. A global both in me and my work has been incredibly have pictured my last day like this. I’m pandemic wasn’t on the list of things my heart-warming. sitting at my dining table, at which I’ve been husband and I thought we’d have to contend I’ll also miss the office team for sure, but working for several weeks as a result of with when we discovered last September I know that we’ll continue to share many the Covid-19 crisis, instead of being in the that we were expecting our first baby! a lunch break in Chesham (most likely a office surrounded by my colleagues, many It’s a strange and unsettling scenario, sandwich from Darvells)… of whom have become good friends over but I’ve a lot to be grateful for. It’s with a I can’t let this occasion pass without the years. If I’d known that my last day in heavy heart that I’ve made the decision not comment! It’s been a pleasure working with the office would turn out to be back in mid- to return to the Society after my maternity you, Vicky. Our relationship has always been March, I’d have taken a moment to pause leave. I’ve learned so much over the last half very congenial and positive. We thought and appreciate all that’s been accomplished decade, and I’m extremely grateful for the along the same lines about many things and how far the Society has progressed opportunities for development the Society relating to Chiltern and its role in the Society. during my tenure as Head of Marketing and has provided – but the time is right to hand We didn’t always agree, but we trusted each Membership. over the baton. other’s judgement and any differences of It’s now just over five weeks until my little If I reflect on what I’m most proud of, one opinion were resolved without acrimony. girl is due to be born. As I grow bigger (and of the things that immediately springs to Thankfully the magazine attracts a great slightly more uncomfortable) each day, I’m mind would have to be the modernisation of deal of positive feedback, and your ideas, really hoping that she’ll have arrived by the the Society’s digital communications. From support and advice have made an important time this magazine lands on your doormat. building our social media platforms into contribution to its continuing success. I wish I’m also hoping more than anything that the thriving, active and engaging channels, to you all the very best as you move into a new crazy situation the world finds itself in is at overseeing the total overhaul of the website and exciting phase of your life. Editor

12 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 13 Rights of way group Blind walkers applaud Society’s volunteers Howard Dell reports

On an unseasonably mild January morning a small bus pulled off the main road in , a few miles north of Henley-on-Thames, and unloaded a chatty group of about 20 booted walkers and 3 black labradors. The bus lettering, ‘Reading Association for the Blind’ (RAB), was the clue that this was the Association’s walking group of totally blind walkers and their sighted guides on another of their regular country walks.

There was excitement on the bus because launched another stile-free paths project everyone knew that they were going to of seven gates in an adjacent area, into be able to enjoy a full morning’s walk on a which she managed to work the pair of newly established, stile-free route around errant stiles. Apparently it took some artful Swyncombe, one of the most attractive negotiation with the landowner to get parts of the south Chilterns. Alan Futter, permission to have those stiles replaced

the Walks Organiser for RAB (and also a this time, although their poor condition Before Chiltern Society South Area probably helped! Once Maggie had Secretary) said, ‘Sighted people might be obtained the necessary clearances from surprised at the pleasure that a walk in the Oxfordshire County Council and funding countryside gives to a person who has no for the whole project, the SCPMV swung sight at all. Only a few minutes ago on the into action by ordering the gate materials bus I heard one of our regular blind walkers and the long-awaited pair of new gates say that our RAB Chilterns walks are the were installed on 8 January 2020. Bizarrely, highlight of every fortnight.’ the old redundant stiles were only metres In the closing months of 2012 the South apart on either side of a hedge, which led Chilterns Path Maintenance Volunteers to more than the usual amount of banter (SCPMV) began a blitz on stiles in between the gate installation teams. Swyncombe parish, replacing 15 of them News of the successfully completed 1 with kissing gates. The stile replacement gate installations and thus a new 4 /4 mile programme had been planned by Maggie stile-free walk soon reached RAB Walks Templeman, also a Chiltern Society South Organiser Alan Futter, and he instantly put After Oxfordshire Area Secretary, but a clean the new route in their walks programme. sweep was thwarted when a landowner Only a couple of weeks later the RAB bus of a sighted guide to point out tree roots decided he didn’t want the last two stiles with its full party of walkers and guides and half-buried stones which might cause a on his land removed. The removal of so left Reading en route to Nettlebed and the trip. And it’s such a relief to have no stiles! many stiles in that area was very welcome, new walk. Alan was confident that it would You only have to try helping a group of but sadly the intention of creating a totally be popular with the group. ‘This’ll be a totally blind and perhaps elderly people stile-free circular walk was frustrated. great walk, very safe as we also don’t cross over one to know how dangerous stiles That’s how things remained for seven years, any main roads and there are no steps are and why we have to get them off our with the condition of those remaining stiles anywhere. Of course, there are many other footpaths.’ slowly deteriorating. hazards along every footpath, so each blind Photos: Howard Dell Towards the end of 2019 Maggie walker needs the help JOIN US Help us to be the voice of all those championing the Chilterns

and our countryside. l Enjoy the satisfaction that comes from knowing you’re l Receive Chiltern, our exclusive members’ magazine, packed contributing to the care and conservation of the Chilterns with great features, news and views, delivered to your door To join, call us on 01494 771250, visit our website four times a year www.chilternsociety.org.uk, or, post-lockdown, come to see us during l Be the first to find out about our exciting events programme office hours at the White Hill Centre, Chesham – address on page 4

12 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 13 CHILTERN WALK • BerkS

Harleyford Manor F River D Thames Danesfield Hurley Lock (Hotel) E 6 Hurley – Priory (Remains) woodlands, Start/Finish Hurley Farm Bus stops views and Frogmill Hurley Spinney SHEPHERDS 5 LANE Temple Park Farm riverside Frogmill Hurley Farm A4130 Bottom 1 With Andrew Clark to to Henley

This walk takes you up from the historic village of High Wood Hurley to enjoy some wonderful views over the Thames Valley, continuing through woodland to explore an old chalk pit, before returning along the bank of the Thames.

START: Hurley village car park SL6 5NB (free). Robinswood Grid ref: SU 825 840. Toilets are available at Hurley Lock C DISTANCE: 5.6 miles/9km. There are a couple of steady 4 A Calves Hall Place climbs up from Hurley to Ashley Hill. Total ascent Leys (College)

400ft/120m Optional HONEY Route LANE TERRAIN: The walk uses field and woodland paths, as well as The Thames Path (which can be waterlogged at times). 2 There’s one stile and numerous gates Channers MAPS: Explorer 172, Chiltern Society 31 3 REFRESHMENTS: Pubs in Hurley and The Dew Drop Inn in B North Ashley Hill Honey Lane Forest LOCAL TRANSPORT: Bus 238/239 runs between 0 0.5 1km Maidenhead and Henley, Mon-Fri and Bus 239 on Sat. Full Map: Glyn Kuhn details can be found on www.travelinesoutheast.org.uk. 0 ½ mile Photos: Colin Drake

Route Turn right out of the car park and walk through the village to the main A4130 road. 1. Cross over, go through the gate opposite and climb the hill bears right through a gate, continue directly ahead on a grassy through a series of further gates into a wood, High Wood. Turn path. Pass through a gate into the BBOWT nature reserve, walk round to see the fine views over the Thames Valley. Continue to straight on for 75m and bear left through the barrier onto a climb, then walk along to leave the wood through a gate into permissive footpath. a field. Keep straight ahead to the left of the hedgerow, all the 4. Walk down past the chalk pit on the left to a bridleway junction way to a concrete track. Turn right and immediately left down a at the bottom. Turn right along the bridleway and follow it for a short set of steps and through a gate into a field. Continue in the kilometre, before going through a gate to the very busy A4130 same direction through a series of gates to a lane by Ladyplace road. Cross the road, turn right along the pavement and left Cottages. *The optional route past the Dew Drop Inn starts here, through a gap in the hedgerow onto a footpath. Cross the stile see below for details. into the field and stay in the same direction through two gates to 2. Cross the lane and follow the path ahead up through the wood reach a gravel track on the bank of the Thames. to an access road near the top. The walk now follows The 5. Turn right along the track and follow signs for The Thames Path. Loop of The Chiltern Way for over a kilometre. Turn Buildings of note on the opposite bank are the RAF Rowing Club right along the access road and continue as far as the gates of a and Danesfield House. After passing the weir, cross a wooden house called ‘Clifton’ (marked Keepers Cottage on the Ordnance bridge and continue to the next bridge (bear right here to Survey map). Turn right in front of the gates and follow the path shorten the walk and return to the car park). Cross the bridge and down to a major junction at the bottom. turn right along the path towards Hurley Lock. 3. Turn left and immediately right along a wide track. Walk past the 6. At the far end turn right over the lock gate and take the path to cottages on the right and, shortly after, take the second path on a lane, Mill Lane. Walk along the lane as far as the High Street. the left. (This is a new path that’s the result of a diversion order Turn right to return to the car park. in 2013 and may not be shown on the Ordnance Survey map). *Optional route past The Dew Drop Inn – turn right along the lane Go through the gate, follow the path between the fences and and stay in the same direction past the road junction and The Dew through the trees to a concrete track where the route leaves The Drop Inn. Walk along for a further 200m to the path junction at Chiltern Way. Bear right along the concrete track and, where it waypoint 3. Turn right to rejoin the main route.

14 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 15 St Mary the Virgin, Hurley

Points of Interest Hurley is rich in historical interest and is mentioned in the Anglo- D. Danesfield House, the impressive white building on the hill, is Saxon Chronicles. There was a ford across the Thames in 450AD Grade II listed. It was completed in 1901 for Robert William Hudson, and a church was built c700AD, but was destroyed by the Danes the son of the Victorian soap entrepreneur Robert Spear Hudson. In in 894AD. In the mid-11th century it was rebuilt as a Benedictine WWII the house was requisitioned by the Air Ministry for the RAF to priory by the lord of the manor, Geoffrey De Mandeville. The priory set up the Reconnaissance and Photography Section known as RAF was dissolved during the Reformation, but some of its buildings . Later the property was the corporate headquarters of can still be seen. These include parts of the parish church and the Carnation Foods before becoming a country house hotel in 1991. The 12th century Olde Bell Inn, one of the oldest hostelries in Britain. site also contains an Iron Age hillfort known as Danesfield Camp or On the way out of the village look for a blue plaque on the right Danes Ditches. Below the house, by the river, is the RAF Boathouse, commemorating the history of the Office of Strategic Services, the which is for the use of serving and retired personnel and their forerunner to the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). families. A. Hall Place is an architectural gem completed in 1735 by William E. Hurley Weir and Lock: An unusual feature of the Thames here East, a London lawyer. It was built on the site of a 13th century manor is that the river splits into a number of channels. The earliest lock house owned by John de Hurley. It remained in the East family until recorded was in the 1580s when a flash weir was installed. These the death of Richard East in the 1930s. He and his wife Dorothy are were like dams which released water to allow boats to be carried thought to be the basis for the young English aristocratic couple in downstream, but then capstans or winches were needed to drag The English Patient. The site is now home to Berkshire College of them upstream. The men who operated them were known as ‘tow Agriculture. rags’. There’s a restored capstan on the bank. B. Ashley Hill Forest and The Chiltern Way: The forest is an ancient Today the weir is used for white water kayaking and is considered to and semi-natural woodland and a local nature wildlife site. Some be the UK’s best play boating venue. It has four radial gates which parts of it are registered common land. The Chiltern Way is a circular provide a standing wave. The beauty of the scenery by Hurley Weir walking route of 134 miles, established by Chiltern Society volunteers and the village of Hurley are mentioned by Jerome K. Jerome in in 2000. Offering breathtaking views of the rolling landscape, the Three Men in a Boat. route stretches around the AONB and is enjoyed by thousands of F. Harleyford Estate can be seen on the other bank of the river. The walkers every year. This section is called The Berkshire Loop and was Grade I listed Manor House was built in 1753 by the Clayton family, inaugurated in 2010, adding an extra 28 miles. who also owned Bisham Abbey and most of Marlow. The head of the C. Hurley Chalk Pit is a nature reserve managed by the Berks, Bucks family, Sir William Clayton, was an MP and Lord Mayor of London. and Oxon Wildlife Trust, and is home to wild orchids and 15 species Parts of the grounds are attributed to the 18th century landscape of butterfly. designer Capability Brown.

14 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 15 VOLUNTEERING Make a difference! development across the Chilterns, and aim to resist firmly the worst excesses of the development industry wherever we can, while at the same time taking the opportunity to promote high standards of planning and architecture throughout the region. The group consists of a team of volunteer Planning Field Officers (PFOs) supported by our Planning Officer. Volunteers come from a wide variety of backgrounds and no specialist knowledge is required, because training and guidance will be provided. You’ll take responsibility for identifying and responding to planning applications in your local area. You’ll need to be well organised, have an enquiring mind and, above all, an enthusiasm for protecting the local landscape and heritage, but this is a very flexible volunteer role. The hours are variable, depending on location and how much time Volunteers at work on Aston Hill you’re able to commit. The role of our PFOs is to: l act as the Society’s ‘eyes and ears’ on Now’s your chance to join the ground in relation to planning and our band of dedicated volunteers development issues in a specific local area l monitor and respond to planning Geographic Information departments. Initially the group created applications throughout the Chilterns, but Systems Group (GIS) maps that were of general interest to Society especially those affecting the designated Although the term may sound technical members: the proposed HS2 route, maps Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and complicated, it’s easy to understand. showing the distribution of our membership (AONB), Green Belt and open countryside Put simply, it means maps and information in the Chilterns and surrounding counties, l provide advice to Local Authorities, about the maps stored on computers. and displays of local industrial archaeology. developers and members of the public on This combination of map graphics and Currently we’re supporting the Living planning issues relating to the protection information held on databases allows Villages project (see Chiltern 235), an ash of the Chiltern landscape not only the rapid reproduction of paper die-back mapping project and a forthcoming l work with the Society’s Planning Officer to maps, but is also a powerful way to analyse book on industrial archaeology. advise on local issues in order to influence geographic information. The group is now looking for several emerging Local Plans. GIS has become important to the volunteers who have an interest in GIS, We have vacancies in the following areas: Chiltern Society because one of the charity’s mapping, conservation, and/or computer l Chiltern South – Chenies, Seer Green purposes is to track and care for its assets technology. While it isn’t essential, a l South Bucks – Beaconsfield and interests in the Chilterns. Most of these background or skills in GIS would be ideal. l Dacorum M – Flamstead, Markyate have a geographic element – for example, The group is also looking for someone l Watlington & adjacent – Aston Rowant, footpaths, hillforts, chalk streams, nature with management experience to assume Chinnor, Crowell, Cuxham, Lewknor, Pishill reserves, pubs and listed buildings. GIS gives leadership of the group when the current with Stonor, Pyrton, Shirburn, Watlington the Society the ability to hold and analyse Chairman steps down. l Wycombe North East – Hazelmere, information on these assets in an easy and If you’re interested, please email Greg Hughenden, ordered way. Wright at [email protected]. l Wycombe North – , Great The Society’s GIS Group was formed and Little Hampden, Great and Little in 2016 to introduce computer-based Planning Field Officers Kimble cum Marsh, mapping to the organisation. The team of If you’re concerned about new developments l  North – Edlesborough, 5-6 volunteers, who come from fields as in your local area, please consider joining our Ivinghoe, Marsworth, Pitstone diverse as IT and city planning, now meet friendly Planning Group. As an organisation l Central Beds – all parishes. quarterly to further the adoption of modern we’re concerned about the growing If you’re interested, please contact our mapping techniques in the Society’s different pressure for new housing and commercial Volunteer Co-ordinator.*

16 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 17 Central Path Maintenance out very light maintenance work to ensure Volunteers (PMVs) – that footpaths and bridleways are kept as Quartermaster accessible as possible. Maps and guidance This is a key role in the Group and comprises: notes will be provided. If you like walking in l Loading the group’s trailer with the tools the countryside and are interested in learning required for a morning’s work parties more about being a Chiltern Society path l Towing the trailer to the designated pub rep, please contact: which is to be the meeting point for the Maggie Templeman, Area Secretary, work parties Chiltern Society on 01491 637942/07831 l Towing the trailer back to the tool storage 878679, or email maggie_templeman@ Trail runners pause at Lacey Green Windmill unit, based at Winchmore Hill near btconnect.com. Amersham, after the work parties learn a lot over time) and you’ll find the l Unloading and checking some of the tools; Lacey Green Windmill role tremendously rewarding. There are two where there’s a problem, taking items to Wardens wardens on duty each time the Windmill be serviced. Lacey Green Windmill is the oldest surviving opens so, working together, you can Although the Quartermaster takes the lead smock mill in ; its important timber give the increasing number of interested on these matters, the work party leaders machinery is over 350 years old. Today the visitors (currently about 1,000 per year) and others will assist in all operations, Windmill is fully preserved and maintained an opportunity to explore and understand including towing. A towbar will be supplied by Chiltern Society volunteers, who are this unique historic building and the milling if necessary. Work parties are weekly, on a delighted to be able to share it with the process. Training will, of course, be provided. different day each week, with a week’s break public. We’re looking for volunteer wardens Lacey Green is about two miles south after every five weeks. to greet visitors and show them round this of Princes Risborough and the 300 bus If you’re interested, please contact our prestigious landmark. (Aylesbury to ) stops nearby Volunteer Co-ordinator.* The Windmill is open to the public so, if you don’t drive, getting there couldn’t on Sundays and Bank Holidays from be easier. Path Reps May to September. If you can spare just If you’re interested, please contact our There’s currently a vacancy for the parish a couple of afternoons, this could be a Volunteer Co-ordinator.* of Lewknor. You’ll be one of the Society’s perfect opportunity and would be a great *Chiltern Society Volunteer Co-ordinator: network of volunteer path reps who monitor introduction to volunteeringWatford Ad Nov16.qxp_Layoutif it’s new to 1 28/10/2016 10:07 Page 1 email [email protected], the rights of way in their parish by walking you. You won’t need a detailed knowledge or call 01494 771250 them at least twice a year, and also carry of windmills (although you’re bound to

Oil deliveries for home, industry & agriculture...

For a fast,efficient & friendly service Budget Payment Scheme Deliveries from 500 Litres ISO 9001 Certificate No.4521 Wide range of Lubricants in stock Suppliers of Bunded Tanks on request Established over 35 years Most Major Credit Cards Accepted

BARTON PETROLEUM LIMITED 3 Greycaine Road, off Bushey Mill Lane Watford, Herts WD24 7GP [email protected] Tel: 01923 233171

16 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 17 photogroup news Getting personal

Barry Hunt introduces a new feature on the group’s website

Browsers of our popular Special Collections albums in the photo archive will find a new section called ‘My Favourites’ in the Personal Albums sector. A distinctive feature is the autobiographical nature of the commentaries that accompany the dozen or so photos selected from the several thousand to be found on the site. In practice, an image could well reflect some aspect of the contributor’s childhood, typify a fine Chilterns walk, or provide insights into a personal interest; a bit like Desert Island Discs without the music.

Our first contributor is John Harrison, Chiltern Way (John Hockey). Common; Penn Wood in the autumn; the PhotoGroup’s web support manager. An established feature of the Personal and a colourful Swan Upping scene near Go to www.chilternphoto.org.uk/index/ Albums section is ‘My Chilterns’. Number Hurley. category/310 and read John’s interesting four in the series is a collection of 34 reasons why he chose his favourites. captioned images taken by Michael King Because of the current situation, all They include those shown here: a that illustrate why the Chilterns mean PhotoGroup activities have been striking image of the Thames below so much to him. See the album at www. suspended for the moment. Shiplake College (Clive Ormonde); St chilternphoto.org.uk/index/category/311. Bartholomew’s Church in (Quiller Three of them feature here: a favourite Barrett); and a typical scene on The horse chestnut tree on Holmer Green

18 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 19 Photogroup competition Puzzle picture: 97

The picture shows an emblem which appears on several buildings in a village in Buckinghamshire. What’s the emblem and in which village does it appear? Send your entry to Ian Bullock, 11 The Willows, Amersham, Bucks HP6 5NT or to puzzlepic@ chilternphoto.org.uk. If you use email, please add your postal address so that, if you win, your prize can be sent to you. The draw will take place on 15 June. The winner will receive £10. Photo: J Fitzgerald

Puzzle picture: 96 The answer

The picture showed the interior of Little Missenden Parish Church noted for its medieval wall paintings. The winner was Sandra Connor of Little Missenden. Photo: D Collier

18 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 19 FOOD AND DRINK Comfort food?

beautiful at this time of year. When our walk is over, my partner turns her attention to spreading compost or pruning the apple tree, and I escape to the refuge of my study. I’ve recently set up a new copywriting enterprise and need to beef up the content on the website. I’ve been putting this off for weeks, but the enforced time at home means I no longer have any excuse for prevarication. By late afternoon my thoughts turn to food. During the past three weeks cooking has become more important to me than ever before. Preparing and serving the evening meal has become the focus of my day and it can become yours too. It’s also a time when we can reward ourselves for that bracing walk by cracking open a bottle or two of local ale, or a glass of something red or white (non-alcoholic alternatives are of course available). Shortly before the lockdown most supermarket shelves were being emptied almost as quickly as they’d been filled. While Tesco in Tring was being pillaged daily by panic buyers, across the road at Dunsley Farm shop there was still a

Hockeridge Wood plentiful supply of eggs, milk, bread and vegetables. Next door to the farm shop, Tring Brewery has closed its shop, but, if Martin Pearson extols the virtues you phone in advance, your beer will be of home-cooking brought out to you. Most local farm shops, including Peterley Manor, Orchard View It’s 9 April 2020 and as I walk over to my study window I spot two squirrels squabbling over and PE Mead, have stayed open, so it’s something in the street. We’re now almost three weeks into the coronavirus lockdown and well worth thinking about combining your while life goes on as normal for hungry squirrels, life for humans has taken a very uncertain weekly supermarket trip with a visit to your turn. nearest farm shop. Not only can you buy locally-produced milk, eggs, and vegetables For politicians and news commentators or without access to an outside space. In that taste like vegetables, you’ll also be the current buzz word is ‘unprecedented’. comparison, many of us in the Chilterns are helping to support a local business during Once used to describe all things Brexit having a much easier time. Yes, I only see these challenging times. (remember that?) and, more recently, to my aged parents when I leave food at their Although our cupboards at home have report on last year’s events in Parliament, door, and I miss the regular contact with remained quite well stocked, shortages unprecedented is now the go-to word used my two grown-up children locked down in of certain meats, pasta, tinned goods and to preface almost any sentence describing Chorleywood, but social media and chat rice have forced me to improvise. In their a Covid-19 related event. Indeed, even that apps such as Zoom and Houseparty mean scramble for toilet rolls and baked beans, chirpy TV Chef, Jamie Oliver, has dumped that we can keep in regular touch. many shoppers have ignored the products his usual glossary of ‘pukka’, ‘lovely jubbly’ The Government is currently allowing that have become integral to my new and ‘wicked’ in favour of the ‘u word’ in us to leave our homes for an hour (or so) home menu. Dried herbs and spices are the introduction to his recent coronavirus- of exercise a day. We live very close to the still abundant and are the first thing you themed TV series. open space of Berkhamsted School field should add to your ‘corona larder’. If you’re Whatever word you think best describes which is closed to the public. We instead starting from scratch, I recommend that these times there’s no doubt that the head up Kings Road, along Shootersway you buy sweet paprika, ground cumin, curry lockdown is harder for some folks than and make our way to open fields via powder, cinnamon, sumac, mustard seeds, others. People are being castigated for Hockeridge Wood. The periwinkles, forget- garam masala, cardamom pods, coriander, sunbathing in London’s parks, but in me-nots and bluebells are now starting star anise, mixed herbs, turmeric and garlic these extraordinary times I can’t help but to bloom, and the trees are adorned with salt (if you can’t find fresh garlic). sympathise with anyone living on their own blossom. The Chilterns are at their most If a well-stocked spice rack is essential,

20 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 21 RECIPE Lamb pilaf with home-made chapatis By Martin Pearson

A delicious way to use up leftover lamb. If you don’t have lamb you can use pork, chicken, beef, green beans, cauliflower, carrots or just about anything you can get your hands on. If you don’t have all the herbs and spices, use the ones you have, plus curry powder as a substitute for those you don’t have.

Ingredients – serves 2-3 (Pro rata the ingredients according to the number of diners)!

l 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil l Lamb shank leftovers, 300g approx l 1 sliced onion (or spring onions/ l 1 lamb stock cube shallots) l 500ml boiling water l 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (or garlic l 80g raisins or other dried fruit so too is having plenty of flour. In the past powder) l 200g chopped tomatoes (or 200g of three weeks I’ve made more dough than I l 8 cardamom pods, using only the fresh tomatoes) have in the previous three years and I still crushed inner seeds l Small bunch of parsley, chopped (if you marvel at the culinary alchemy that occurs l 1 large cinnamon stick (or a tsp of have it) when two simple ingredients – flour and cinnamon powder) l Small bunch of coriander, chopped (or 1 water – combine and eventually turn into l 2 tsp turmeric powder tsp coriander powder) bread or pasta. l Half a red chilli, finely chopped (or chilli l 40g lightly toasted flaked almonds (or Finally, remember that vegetables aren’t flakes) pine nuts) just for boiling or steaming. Peel your l 280g approx of brown basmati rice l Salt and pepper to taste carrots and bake them whole in a hot oven for 40 minutes with some oil, butter, star Method anise, salt and pepper. Stuff your red and l In a pan, heat the oil, add the onion and yellow peppers with fresh tomatoes (which lamb, and cook for a few minutes are currently more abundant than tinned), l Add the garlic and spices add a drizzle of oil, salt and pepper, and l m ake the stock, but first add the rice roast in a hot oven for 45 minutes. Break to the pan and coat with the meat and spices your cauliflower into florets, drizzle with l Add the stock and tomatoes, and cook olive oil and generously sprinkle with on a low heat for about 20 minutes. If smoked paprika. After just half an hour in the rice starts to get too dry add more a hot oven you’ll have a delicious side dish hot water until the rice is cooked through or vegetarian main course. Don’t be afraid l Add the chopped herbs and raisins, and to experiment and substitute ingredients – top with the almonds and have some fun doing it! l Serve with cauliflower and/or broccoli One day this unprecedented and and home-made chapatis. extraordinary period of our history will be Chapatis: over, and we’ll come out the other side. On l Take 150g approx of plain or wholemeal a personal note it will mean that I can at flour, add water, 2 tbsp of oil, salt & pepper and 1 tsp curry powder last get my hair cut, visit the pub and watch l Knead the mixture into a dough that’s football, but I can’t help wondering what ready for rolling impact the pandemic will have on society l Break the mixture into 4 smaller dough as a whole. Perhaps this shared experience balls and roll each, as thin as you can, will encourage us to truly value our great into a rough oval/circle shape, using NHS and the other key services that have plenty of flour to stop the dough sticking put their lives at risk for us, and we’ll derive to the rolling pin happiness from the things that really l Heat a dry pan until it’s smoking hot and matter in life such as family, friendship and cook the chapatis for approx 90 seconds good health. on each side. Until then, perhaps some exercise and More recipes like this can be found at www.chilternepicurean.co.uk. decent home-cooked food can make this

interregnum bearable. Stay safe and well. Photos: Martin Pearson

20 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 21 CHILTERN wildlife Manifesto for Chilterns Wildlife Working together to bring wildlife back into our lives!

This manifesto is the Society’s statement of commitment to restore, enhance and protect wildlife across the Chilterns. Our vision is to restore and enlarge the network of wildlife habitats that the Chilterns is known for; create a landscape that is resilient to the pressures it faces now and in the future; generate even more space for nature by making the places where we live and work wildlife-friendly; and ensure our children grow up with wild green spaces to explore.

The manifesto lays out a road map for us landscape has changed dramatically water abstraction from our chalk to support the delivery of the new AONB and has reduced the ability of farmland streams/aquifer Management Plan and fulfil our vision by wildlife, such as lapwing, skylark and l Get the highest level of protection focusing on restoring and protecting key yellowhammer to survive. for our chalk streams habitats and wildlife corridors across the We will: l Provide the support needed to landscape. l Lobby to ensure the UK’s new ensure the successful delivery of the Environmental Land Management Chalk Streams Project 1. The Chilterns Landscape: a rich Scheme supports land managers and l Through our Chalk Rivers mosaic of habitats that comes alive farmers to deliver wildlife-friendly Action Group (CRAG), ensure all when it’s connected by a network of initiatives government agencies and the fields, hedgerows, parklands, gardens l Continue to support farmer-led water companies deliver on their and roadside verges. Year on year, wildlife conservation projects and responsibilities for maintaining and however, these connections are being help promote environmentally improving the quality of our chalk eroded and fragmented by a swathe sensitive farming practices streams of pressures including increased l Look to forge and build new l Ensure those living and working demand for housing, a move towards partnerships with landowners and in the Chilterns understand the cheaper food resulting in larger scale farmers, and champion local food importance of making our water go farming practices, growing transport and sustainable farming. further in our everyday lives. infrastructure and changes in land use. We will: 3. Chalk Streams: there are only 300 chalk 4. Woodlands: The Chilterns is one l Help deliver landscape-scale streams in the world, and the Chilterns of the most wooded landscapes in conservation initiatives that is home to nine of these precious England and over half of this is ancient strengthen wildlife corridors habitats, which support some of the woodland. The region is famous for l Protect wildlife species characteristic UK’s most endangered species, such as its beech woods. Woodlands were its of the Chilterns the water vole, reed bunting and brown lifeblood, supporting the local economy l Facilitate and coordinate local trout. Far from being the pride of the and communities, and now form a core wildlife groups and projects Chilterns however, our chalk streams habitat of our ecological networks. l Campaign for wildlife-friendly are in steep decline with no sign of Now, however, many woodlands are planning which ensures that improvement. The recent wet winter neglected, fragmented, and damaged development improves biodiversity offers a temporary respite, but many by a plethora of pests and diseases, l Lobby government at all levels on will again have no water in them at all, and new trees rarely survive to replace large infrastructure and planning which has a devastating effect on the mature trees. Ash in particular is projects to ensure that wildlife wildlife dependent on them. threatened by disease. protection and enhancement  We have one of the highest rates of We will: measures are incorporated. water use per person in Europe, which l Work to prevent the loss of leads to over-abstraction to feed high important woodland habitat 2. Farming and Wildlife: farming currently levels of demand. Our inefficient use and improve woodland quality accounts for over 60% of the Chilterns of water is then compounded by dry by supporting owners to carry landscape and has a central role in summers, run off from tarmac surfaces, out positive management, and sustaining large-scale conservation the canalisation of stretches of river, promoting best practice across the region. As financial pressure and pollution. l Look at developing medium to long- on farmers has increased and traditional We will: term projects that increase native farming practices have decreased, the l Work at stopping unsustainable woodland cover across the region.

22 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 23 Ewelme Watercress Beds – Oxon

Clouds and silver linings

5. Grasslands & Commons: The Chilterns’ From Tom Stevenson and Keith Tibbs species-rich grasslands are an important component of the rich The footbridge over the site of the old mill wheel was demolished in February, habitat mosaic across the landscape. because it had become rotten and unsafe. Work to replace it started in early Chalk grassland supports many species March and would, but for the lockdown, have been completed by now. It’s yet characteristic of the Chilterns, such as another job that will have piled up and will need attention when we’re finally able wild candytuft, pasque flower, Chiltern to resume activities on the site. gentian, silver spotted skipper and glow-worms. Many other species are Since early March there’s been a decent flow of water through the cress beds due also reliant on other grassland habitats to the 442mm of rain (over 17 inches in old money) that fell during the months often found on the numerous commons October to February. Although the rains brought misery to many people in various across the Chilterns. Centuries of parts of the country, in the seemingly far-off days before coronavirus, they were grazing has helped shape these habitats a blessing for us because the water level and flow had been very low for many but, due to a decline in traditional months and the cress had struggled to grow. For the first time in many years the management practices, only fragments ‘winterbourne’ – the spring that very occasionally rises in the field between the of grassland remain, which struggle to cress beds and Ewelme Manor – flowed into the very top end of the beds. As the support the diversity of species that water levels have already risen, and because the rainwater from the Chilterns takes rely on them for their survival. many weeks to permeate through the chalk, there should be a good flow of water We will: for months to come. The beds are already looking a good deal healthier and more l Work to see the Chilterns as verdant than they did last year. We won’t be able to show them off for some time, an exemplar of chalk grassland however, because unfortunately we’ve had to cancel our open days. As a result we’ll management by ensuring key sites miss the burgeoning spring flowers on the upper site. are in positive and sustainable For understandable reasons, my wildlife notes date back to the beginning of management March. At that time winter was slowly moving into spring. Most of our overwintering l Ensure sensitive sites are protected birds, such as little egret and water rail, had left us, although you can never be and support viable grazing projects too sure about the very secretive rail, which could easily have gone into hiding. l Work at strengthening the network The first flowers were starting to appear, including sweet violet and coltsfoot, of open grassland sites across the and frogspawn had appeared in one of the ponds on the lower site. We were Chilterns looking forward with slightly mixed feelings to the resurgence of growth both in l Facilitate local groups working to the meadow and in the cress beds. Luckily some of the neighbours are using their restore, enhance and protect local one hour ‘exercise allowance’ to maintain channels through the beds adjacent to grassland sites. their properties, but there’ll be a great deal of catching up to do once the present restrictions are lifted. We need your help to restore wildlife Every cloud, they say, has a silver lining and that’s certainly true about the in the Chilterns – now’s the time to act effect of travel restrictions on the environment generally, and on flora and fauna in for a wilder future! If you’d like more particular. We’re very fortunate that we live in an area where there are open spaces information about our vision for Chilterns on our doorstep, and our ‘essential exercise’ walks give us an enhanced awareness wildlife and the work we’re doing to of birdsong that isn’t having to compete with ceaseless traffic noise. The air feels achieve it, as well as ways in which you can and smells cleaner. More and more people are discovering the countryside on their support us, please visit our website or sign doorstep, as they venture out onto paths they didn’t know existed. Hopefully that up for our e-news which will have regular will have a lasting effect on people’s appreciation of the delights of the Chilterns.

updates on this and our other campaigns. Photo: Colin Drake Photos: Colin Drake

22 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 23 NEWS AND VIEWS Don’t Lose Your Way!

Help is needed with a vital footpath project

We’re very lucky to have an extensive and largely well-maintained network of rights of way in the Chilterns. We may not be able to use it as freely as we might wish at the moment because of coronavirus, but eventually the lockdown will be lifted and we’ll be able to get out and take full advantage of it again. With so many footpaths and tracks to enjoy, has it ever occurred to you that some of them may not, for legal reasons, be as permanent as you imagine, or that there may be others which, for one reason or another, have disappeared from the landscape and could be reinstated?

Since the turn of the century this to the legal record question has taken on considerable (the Definitive Don’t Lose Your Way The guide to nding lost rights of way significance, because The Countryside Map) in England and Rights of Way Act 2000 (CRoW) and Wales on the prescribed a cut-off date of 1 January basis of historical 2026 for the recording, on definitive evidence. This has maps, of footpaths and bridleways set alarm bells ringing for organisations will not hold created before 1949, and provided for like the Open Spaces Society (OSS) and water…’ the extinguishment of these rights of the Ramblers. In their words, ‘Unrecorded Following the CRoW, the Countryside way if they haven’t been claimed by the routes, many of which go back centuries, Agency established the ‘Discovering deadline. need to be identified and claimed so Lost Ways Project’ to trial a systematic Each county has its own Definitive they can be secured for generations to approach to researching unrecorded Map, which is continually updated as come. These unrecorded routes exist in rights of way. When Natural England routes close or open. These originally law; many exist on the ground and are in took it over in 2007, however, they took shape soon after WWII, when it current use, while others would provide found fundamental problems with the was realised that local knowledge about useful additional routes and linkages system for making and processing communities and their rights of way was to the existing network.’ In 2016 Ross claims for unrecorded rights of way, in danger of being lost. A governmental Osborn of Buckinghamshire Local Access and concluded that a time-limited committee recommended that there Forum wrote: ‘The basic message is stark completion of the Definitive Map and should be a nationwide Definitive Map of – we take our access to the countryside Statement by 2026 was not a practical rights of way so that people would know for granted; we use routes for recreation proposition under existing procedures. for certain where they could or couldn’t and as a means of linking places together The project was subsequently wound legally walk or ride. The recommendation without thinking but if we don’t check up having cost £8m, and only resulted was enshrined in the 1949 National what we already have, or what has been in the recording of four ‘lost’ routes in Parks and Access to the Countryside used in the past, and that it is legally one county. Instead, Natural England Act. Footpaths and bridleways were recorded, we could lose them and we established the ‘Stakeholder Working surveyed, and after a process involving may never get another chance to register Group on Unrecorded Public Rights of consultations with parish and county them in future. Way’ (SWG), comprising representatives councils, landowners and the general ‘Simply put... a small strip of land of local authorities, rights of way public, counties were permitted to print between a highway and the start of a user groups and landowning/land their Definitive Maps. These legally definitive path might be unregistered. management interests. This group, protected public access to rights of way After 2026, a landowner could put a which focused on developing workable where, at the map’s publication date, gate or fence across it and restrict all reforms to the system, delivered the there existed conclusive proof of the entry to the public – quite legally – thus Stepping Forward report, complete right to walk, ride, or in some instances permanently hindering access to the with 32 recommendations, in 2010. Five take a carriage, across other people’s countryside because we have assumed years later the recommendations were land. the map to be correct but not checked included in the Deregulation Act 2015. Its From January 2026, however, it will no it against what is actually on the ground. provisions have yet to be enacted. longer be possible to add rights of way Comments like “we have always used it” As a result of these delays and false

24 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 25 starts, the challenge of researching, identifying and registering ‘lost’ rights of way has landed in the lap of the Finding lost rights of way There are three easy ways to start hunting for lost rights of way voluntary sector, and many people have 1 Explore the old maps: responded to the call. Taking a lead in Old maps show what your local area looked like in days past, and often show lost rights of way that may have fallen into disuse, supporting and guiding their efforts have or simply not been recorded on more recent maps.

Old maps are available from local and national archives – and often been the Ramblers, the OSS and The laying in boxes in second hand bookshops. But they can also be found and studied online, so there’s no need to wait or set out on British Horse Society, with a campaign a big expedition. You can get hunting today! The guide to nding The National Library of Scotland has digitised a range of maps Map of Ringmer 1907 called ‘Don’t Lose Your Way’. Training (which cover the whole of the UK) - all of which are georeferenced so you can zoom right into your local area. Just select any of the lost rights of way Ordnance Survey (OS) or Bartholomew maps on the left toolbar and courses have been held under the title see what roads and paths used to exist where you live. If you find a footpath (F.P.), bridle road (B.R.) or a road marked on a historic map, but which you can’t see on a current Ordnance Survey map - ‘Restoring the Record’, and the Ramblers Thethis might denitive be a lost right of way! map explained Well over 140,000 miles of public paths criss-cross England There are many other sources of historic maps online, including are asking people to mark potential and Wales. This network has evolved over centuries with many which just cover your local area. The Ramblers has created a

The legal record of the rights of way in an area. copyright and database rights 2018 OS 100033886. © National Library of Scotland © Crown many paths dating back to medieval times - or earlier! handy directory of all these sources. These paths link villages, hamlets, roads and towns - they Map of Ringmer 2018 The definitive map records footpaths, bridleways, restricted lost rights of way using their mapping describe how generations before us travelled to the pub, field byways and byways open to all traffic. or shops and reflect the changing patterns of human interaction with the landscape. To this day, millions of people across our All local authorities in England and Wales are required to have website. They emphasise, however, that towns, cities and countryside, use this fantastic network. one (except inner London boroughs and the Isles of Scilly) However, miles and miles of our public paths will be lost, simply Local authorities are required to keep and make public identifying a potential lost right of way is because they are not recorded on the definitive map - the official a register of applications of proposed changes to the record of the public’s rights of way in an area. One estimate definitive map. Most local authorities have these online. suggests that 10,000 miles of rights of way are at risk – enough just the starting point. Significant further to stretch from London to Sydney. These public rights of way have Information derived from the definitive maps is also shown been created by use over centuries and must be recorded so they as rights of way on Ordnance Survey maps (always check can be used and enjoyed by generations to come. If they are not the definitive map to ensure this is correct and up-to-date!) research is needed to prove that any recorded by 1 January 2026, they will be lost for ever.

The Ramblers’ Don’t Lose Your Way project is supporting path mapped was a public right of way volunteers from all over England and Wales in finding these Types of public rights of way lost rights of way and making applications to local authorities to get them back on the map. in the past. Once the historical evidence Footpath This guide explains how you can start the hunt for lost rights has been collected a ‘Definitive Map of way in your area. Modification Order’ can be submitted Bridleway to the local authority concerned. The petitioning Parliament for a Restricted Ramblers also point out that their aim five year extension to the 2026 Byway isn’t to put every lost path back on the deadline, now that the process is Byway Open map, but to focus on those that add relying on unfunded volunteers. If to All traffic

real value to the network. This includes you’re interested in being involved For a full map legend please see the Ordinance Survey website resolving dead ends, completing circular in this important project, which routes, creating better connections and will almost certainly benefit providing routes in areas which lack off- future generations of walkers and Ramblers Charity England & Wales No. 1093577 Scotland No. SC039799 DISCLAIMER: Please note all images shown here are for illustrative p road walking opportunities. riders, visit www.ramblers.org.uk/ urposes and do not necessarily imply that a public right of way exists . The three organisations have been dontloseyourway to find out more. From cupboards to cuddly toys. We move and store with care.

Providing a personalised removal and storage service for homes and businesses in the South East.

For a FREE quote visit clarksofamersham.co.uk 01494 774186

24 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 25 CHILTERN WILDLIFE

Butterflies in decline

Common blue George Stebbing-Allen issues a call to arms

Picture (if you’re old enough) the scorching hot summer of 1955. Picture a 13 year- old boy tramping across the South Downs at Cocking, south of Midhurst, with an 84 year-old gentleman who’s enthusiastically leading a butterfly ramble over this parched, unforgiving grassland. My grandfather Frank Oldaker is doing something he’s done every year since 1904, two world wars notwithstanding.

Fate decreed that it would be his last and Ashridge Estate, both in the care of butterfly ramble and my only one; but the National Trust. Wise choice of home it was his eagerness and superlative – and of garden, namely the one Lin and I communication skills – not to mention created from a patch of unprepossessing the clouds of butterflies we saw – that cornfield. Gradually, as we planted cemented in my mind and psyche a judiciously, butterflies started moving persistent and unshakeable love of in; although our verbena bonariensis Frank Oldaker butterflies. The blues, particularly grew so tall – about eight feet – that any common and chalkhill, remain favourites butterfly nectaring there would have had hairstreak, despite the presence nearby to this day. (Observant readers of this a better view of me that I had of it! of several mature oak trees; and, in magazine may recall previous references Whatever the national records may common with my own observations and to the debt I owe Frank: butterflies, along have stated, 2009 was our butterfly experiences, in their State of the UK’s with birds, flowers and a general interest annus mirabilis, so please forgive me if Butterflies report Butterfly Conservation in natural history, have never been far I list the species that visited us in the suggest that 76% of the UK’s resident from my thoughts throughout a long life). course of that wonderful season. I do this and regular migrant butterflies are in Unfortunately a busy scholastic and in case my record from a small corner of decline. Many reasons are given, most business life in generally unforgiving the Chilterns has some value in a wider notably climate change, pesticides, locations forced me to place my love context. Here goes: brimstone, orange predation (possibly by carnivorous of butterflies on the back burner; it tip, large white, small white, green-veined wasps) and – to my mind – the most wasn’t really until I moved to my house white, common blue, chalkhill blue, holly significant of all, habitat loss. How much in Wigginton (supposedly the highest blue, meadow brown, ringlet, gatekeeper, habitat is being sacrificed to the housing village in the Chilterns) 20 years ago peacock, red admiral, comma, painted boom that’s malignantly stalking the that my love of and interest in butterflies lady, small tortoiseshell, dark green countryside? And how much more will be resurfaced. This location gave me fritillary, Essex skipper, small skipper and lost to HS2? access to prime butterfly country, most purple hairstreak. Twenty species! How to halt this decline? The answer notably Ragpits (of orchid There was never a better year lies in our own hands. The good news fame) and College Lake – both BBOWT before or – more significantly – since. I is this: as long as there are plants with Reserves – as well as Ivinghoe Beacon haven’t seen the fritillary again, nor the suitable nectar, butterflies will visit

26 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 27 gardens. I imagine a large number of Chiltern Society members have gardens, and insect activity is good for the whole garden ecosystem. Garden centres are good places to seek detailed information. One in particular is very helpful and recommends planting for butterflies by season. In spring, food helps butterflies regain energy after hibernation or return flight from winter migration; recommended plants include aubretia, heathers, perennial wallflower (erysimum), lavender, apple varieties (malus), primrose and flowering currant (ribes sanguineum). In summer, butterflies require a continuous food supply, not least to give them the strength to find a mate; recommended plants include allium, aquilegia, ceanothus, dahlia, geranium, Gatekeeper lavender, honeysuckle, oregano/ marjoram, the faithful fail-safe buddleia it easier for the butterflies to reach the first time! (butterfly bush), and verbena bonariensis nectar.’ Spot on! Scabious is a perfect I add a sad postscript of ornithological (though see above and be warned)! example. concern. I read that the British Trust In autumn, butterflies use nectar as If you read this as a call to arms for Ornithology are reporting a slump – energy to survive hibernation or for the that’s exactly what it’s intended to be. their word – in chaffinch numbers. This strength to fly to sunnier locations to We all have it in our power to set about caused me great distress; I have known avoid our winter. Some, like painted ladies, reversing the sad decline of our native and loved the chaffinch all my life, from make it as far as Africa. Recommended butterflies. With dwindling habitat the pinewoods of the Surrey hills to the plants include aster, cosmos, gallardia, outside our gardens we must capitalise mixed Chiltern woodlands. The males hebe, phlox, scabious and sedum. (As on the habitat inside our gardens. And are colourful and their cheerful song an aside on Sod’s law, last summer my if we can do it in the Chilterns, there’s has always been a harbinger of spring. buddleia flowered before the main flush no reason why we shouldn’t be capable This year I heard a lone male singing on of nectar feeders arrived – or were they, of doing it nationwide – so go to it and 12, 23 and 29 February. Note the word perhaps, late or even delayed for any of save the butterflies! You can take heart ‘lone’ – even his persistence failed to the reasons stated earlier)? from the news that all is not doom and denote a resurgent spring outpouring of These suggestions will come as no gloom. Butterfly Conservation have song. If the slump in chaffinch numbers surprise to established gardeners, and reported that 2019 was a better year for is in parallel to the decline of butterflies, they may well wish to add to the list. butterflies. The damp spring produced I wonder to what extent the causes are Beginners, take heart. All the plants a good supply of food for caterpillars, the same. What’s the experience of other mentioned are easy to grow and while the hot summer suited many readers? generally available at garden centres. species such as ringlet and meadow You can download a Gardening for I’ve noticed that one in particular has brown. It also encouraged the migrant Butterflies guide at www.butterfly- displayed fliers, including the useful tip species, and the long-tailed blue was conservation.org.

‘plant varieties with flat flowers to make recorded in the south of England for the Photos: George Stebbing-Allen cholesbury

tree fellers Manufacturers & Suppliers of Quality Fencing & Garden Buildings to the Trade & DIY local family business Fence Panels & Posts Closeboard established 30 years Trellis & Palisade Concrete Posts chesham based Entrance & Side Gates • all aspects of tree surgery undertaken • Decking & Sleepers • woodchips supplied • Field Fencing • contractor to local authority • Chainlink Sheds & Garden mulch supplied, ideal for water retention Buildings and weed suppressor Friendly Advice 01296 623139 Large Stocks tel: 01494 771180 Delivery Service Aston Hill, Aston Clinton, HP23 6LD mob: 07939 135056 www.cheshamfencing.co.uk

26 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 27 HIGH SPEED TWO Project given the green light in July 2019, and although they began an investigation last November, we have yet to receive any response from the ICO [Information Commissioner’s Office]. Clearly HS2 are unwilling to open up this issue for discussion, or to publicly defend their safety case for the tunnel. ‘An additional problem has recently emerged, regarding the supply of water needed for the Chiltern Tunnel TBMs [tunnel boring machines]. This is estimated at between 5 & 8 mega litres/day, and Affinity Water have stated that they are unable to supply this, due to ongoing problems with drought and over-abstraction in the Chilterns. No indication has been given as to where this water will come from. ‘Our original concerns – pollution of the Chiltern aquifer, and the risk posed to the River Misbourne, still remain. Affinity Water are building a pipeline from their Chalfont Whielden Lane footpath, Amersham St Giles extraction point to Amersham to be – pre-HS2 and now able to deal with the turbidity expected to Despite the serious concerns and objections of many critics, not least about the hugely occur with the tunnel coming close to that increased cost, it was announced in mid-April that the Government had given formal abstraction point. approval for construction work on HS2 to begin. ‘Another issue has arisen with construction of the tunnel in that HS2 have Matthew Kilcoyne, deputy director of the MPs, the Society’s Patron, Lord Howe, and to established that there is a substantial amount Adam Smith Institute, condemned the Edward Malnick of The Sunday Telegraph. It’s of alluvial clay near the North Portal. The Government’s announcement as ‘tone-deaf’ reproduced below. clay will not support the weight of the tunnel in light of the coronavirus pandemic. ‘We’ve without substantial piling. got an economic crisis that’s going to cost HS2 Notice to Proceed ‘To summarise, it is not clear that the taxpayers billions,’ he said. ‘We can’t afford ‘We are writing to you again re HS2, as there Chiltern Tunnel can be constructed within vanity projects like HS2. We need to get back now seems to be a real possibility that Notice the cost budget, or what environmental onto a sustainable financial footing.’ to Proceed may be issued during the current damage would result from its construction, The ‘Notice to Proceed’ gives formal crisis, without proper examination of the or whether the completed tunnel could safely approval for full detailed design and revised business case and demonstration accommodate the frequency of services construction of Phase One. The joint ventures of management competence which should which have been used to justify the business responsible for this are required to operate in accompany this. Such a decision would be case. line with Public Health England’s guidance for completely unjustifiable, given the uncertain ‘In light of the above it would seem safe construction work during the coronavirus impacts of this crisis on the national finances, sensible to publicise these concerns, in an outbreak. Those in favour of the project have and future working and travelling habits. effort to delay any attempt to grant “Notice heralded the decision as a key element in kick- ‘You may remember that the Society to Proceed” until the current crisis is resolved, starting the economy as the country recovers has serious safety concerns regarding the and adequate scrutiny can take place.’ from the effects of the pandemic. Chiltern Tunnel, which we discussed with Very sadly it appears that, despite the For some time before the Government’s you in the autumn of 2018. We have had a best efforts of the Chiltern Society and verdict was made known, the Chiltern discussion with Rueben McDonald, Head of other groups and individuals with similar Society had repeatedly attempted to elicit Safety at HS2 Ltd. We raised a number of views about HS2, the project now has near- a response from HS2 Ltd about a number of questions for which we have never received unstoppable momentum. Members can rest issues relating to the Chiltern Tunnel. In early a response. Also we have been attempting assured, however, that the Society will strive April, John Gladwin wrote a letter outlining to obtain further information from HS2, to reduce as far as possible the line’s impact the Society’s chief concerns to Lord Berkeley, in particular a safety report which they on the Chiltern environment, and continue former Deputy Chair of the Oakervee Review, commissioned, using FOI [Freedom of to challenge HS2 Ltd on key issues such as who publicly disagreed with the Review’s Information] legislation. We referred these those raised above. findings. The letter was copied to Chiltern requests to the Information Commissioner Photos: Keith Hoffmeister

28 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 29 CHILTERN FARMING No let-up for farmers spread to other herds and sadly to adjacent counties where no supervised badger control is exercised. On top of this, as I write, we’re being told that the catering and leisure market for milk has collapsed due to Covid-19, with production running at 1.5 million litres a day in excess of demand, and no surplus capacity to process it. We’re fortunate in that we’re long- time members of Arla, a Europe-wide farmer co-operative with a base in Aylesbury, which manufactures a variety of dairy products, and so are equipped as well as any other processor to cope. From the arable farmer’s point of view, the very wet autumn meant that only a limited amount of corn was sown. Recently Work goes on despite the pandemic, conditions have improved and spring-sown writes Gill Kent cereals have now germinated. Total yields from grain crops are, however, likely to be My last article described the problems faced by farming from charges of excess carbon less than usual. Nearly all the sprays needed emissions, and combatting veganism. Compared with the country’s difficulties at the time for insect and weed control are imported, of writing, those problems pale into insignificance. The farming industry in the Chilterns so farmers are worried about availability is probably one of the least affected sectors of the economy. The usual spring work has due to Covid-19. Looking further ahead, the started: fertilising the crops either with manure or artificial fertiliser, and mending fences Agriculture Bill 2020 proposes phasing out which have been broken by fallen trees. Cows are still being milked and, after the recent support for agriculture in favour of payments spell of dry weather, farmers are at last able to turn their animals out. Cattle have left for environmental schemes. Perhaps after this their barns, and we’ve been able to enjoy the annual stampede which occurs when they pandemic, politicians will have a rethink! first smell fresh grass. The land can now be cultivated and crops sown. Farm workers can Apart from those farmers who’ve invested be confident of retaining their jobs. large sums of money in diversification, involving attractions for the general public For the few remaining sheep farmers, our cattle. Our dairy herd has been closed which have had to close for the foreseeable lambing is in full swing and the grass is at for the last 25 years (ie. no cattle have been future, and those milk producers who’ve last starting to grow after a wet, cold spring. bought in), but significantly the number of lost their market, the farming community As a result of the lockdown there may be badger setts on our farm has grown from must be part of the most fortunate group in fewer dog walkers on the footpaths, making two in 1970 to at least twelve today. Our society. The nature of our job means we can’t the fields safer for lambs. cattle don’t make physical contact with any be locked down and are able to enjoy the In the , the most other cattle, so wildlife, most likely badgers, freedom of the countryside. worrying factor is the appearance of TB in must be responsible; the disease will then Photo: Colin Drake

Great food, great flavour! We believe that great food & flavour comes from the freshest ingredients & produce  Seasonal fruit & veg handpicked by us & available to you the same day  With Beechwood you know what you’re eating & where it’s from!  Visit our website for up to date details of our products and services

28 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 29 Hidden corners of Tring

CHILTERN HERITAGE

Above: Louisa Cottages; inset: Methodist church wall hanging John Hockey goes exploring on foot

Tring Triangle is the colloquial name given to the older parts of the town originally known as ‘Tring West End’. It’s bounded by Akeman Street to the east, Western Road to the north and Park Road to the south, thus forming a distinct triangular section of this prosperous Chiltern town (although some purists suggest that Langdon Street rather than Akeman Street is the north-south border of the true triangle). In addition it represents a substantial part of Tring’s Conservation Area. The Triangle has a remarkable history and a thriving present. As was typical in Victorian times, you can find a significant number of terraced houses, a few more modern semi-detached properties and one or two large imposing dwellings. By far the best way to explore this area is on foot, because the narrow roads aren’t really suitable for modern traffic.

The industrious, though not industrial, carried out there, such as the Old Bakery in originally built, but which is now Methodist. feel of this area can be judged by Charles Street. It’s a joy, and still retains a beautiful turn inspecting the entries in Kelly’s Business The first building of note I saw in of the century stained glass east window. Directory for 1882. Along with the usual the Triangle was the Catholic church on Inside there’s a modern (2007) wall hanging, greengrocer, boot & shoemaker and straw Langdon Street, a road parallel to Akeman worked on by over 200 people aged from hat manufacturer so common in this area of Street, that bisects the area. It has a lovely 7 to 99, each small square containing a the Chilterns at that time, we find a canvas Arts and Crafts feel and is much larger than cross. I must say that the incumbents of maker, a rope weaver and Wm. Huckvale, when originally built in the early 1900s, these religious buildings were more than Architect. He must have been well catered having been extended. The brickwork and happy to share information on the somewhat for, because listed nearby were a stone general carpentry are exemplary and were idiosyncratic features of their premises. mason, brick maker and plumber & glazier. carried out by Anthony Delarue in the late Another type of temple, perhaps frowned The inclusion in the directory of builder 1990s. upon by strict Methodists, is the public house & undertaker was not unusual, because Churches and chapels feature quite – and the Tring Triangle is well served. There coffin making was an all too familiar trade, heavily in the Triangle. Chapel Street wasn’t time to visit all the hostelries in this providing a service for those who worked houses a former Ebenezer Chapel, now area, but I did pop into The King’s Arms, built at a time when health and safety was but two houses. Nearby is the second religious by John Brown of Tring Brewery. There’s a a distant dream. Today, perhaps indicating building I visited, namely St Martha’s, large former stable to the side (now The pride in the history of the area, many of the looking for all the world like a miniature Coach House restaurant) from where horses cottages still retain the name of the trades gothic Anglican church, which it was when were hired out, and a club room where the

30 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 31 Tring Band practised. Naturally, beers from Tring Brewery are still available and as a deliberate nod to the distinct footprint of the area, both the shield-shaped three- sided pump clip and the myriad triangles used on bottle labels firmly echo the geometry of the Tring Triangle. There’s definitely a community feel here and one resident, happy to chat as I went about my business, told me ‘I can’t imagine ever living anywhere else.’ Famous or at least well-known inhabitants of the area include William Huckvale, the aforementioned architect to Lord Rothschild, who was responsible for many black and white buildings in the town. No better example can be seen than Louisa Cottages in Park Road, which King’s Arms coach house forms the southern edge of the area. They were erected in 1893 and extended in 1901, and were originally built to house retired workers from the Rothschild Estate. The splendid open view the inhabitants now enjoy is thanks to the clearance by the Rothschilds of the south side of Park Road, which included the demolition of Prospect House School for boys. Now sheep may safely graze on this sunny grassland area, easily accessed by continuing past the Natural History Museum to the end of Akeman Street and turning right. A significant name known to many will be John Bly, formerly of Antiques Roadshow fame. His grandfather, John Bly Senior was a dealer in Henry Street in 1890, before opening his antiques emporium in the High Street. Another notable resident who made the Tring Triangle his home was Sir Gordon Nairne, a Director of the Bank Catholic church of England, who lived in The Furlong in the 1930s, once a big house built for the Vicar of Tring and now a complex of neat modern dwellings. One of the larger houses still standing is Ardenoak House (formerly Elm House), set back from the junction of Upper High Street and Langdon Street. First built as a private house, it was initially owned by a doctor, then became a school for girls and young boys, and is now used for commercial purposes. Surprises can be found here and there – who’d have thought that in the 1930s Parsonage Place, a typical row of Victorian cottages, had Johnson’s Wet Fish Shop at the end of the row? I wasn’t familiar with this area of Tring before my visit. It just shows what delights can be unearthed by a short walk and a little judicious research. I know one thing, the next time I partake of a Tring Brewery beer, I’ll know why the label is covered in triangles – cheers! Photos: John Hockey Ardenoak House

30 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 31 LETTERS What about dogs? Alan Cooper, by email

I read the draft Buckinghamshire Rights of Way Improvement Plan and responded to the survey. Although generally pretty good, it’s clear that its editor either dislikes or has no interest in dogs or dog walkers. This is inappropriate due to the fact that probably 50% of walkers in the countryside are accompanied by dogs – a primary reason for the regularity of people’s walks in the countryside. Only on page 22 is there any reference to dogs, and that is a negative reference, categorised as minimal importance for access. There are no pictures showing a dog being exercised in the countryside. This doesn’t reflect reality.

One of the primary aims of improving access to the countryside is to promote physical and mental health. This objective can be met by dog ownership and exercising, a connection that should be clearly stated within the publication. It deserves a section of its own, which would clearly be the easiest way to correct the gaping omission, rather than spend much time altering so many of the other pages. I own two Yorkshire Terriers who, despite their short legs, will happily out-walk or out- A wealth of run any of us all day long! Photo: Colin Drake resources More food for thought George Stebbing- Sarah Lewis, by email Allen, by email In these strange and dangerous times we In the spring issue you featured an item by Gill Kent (beef farming), pledges for Cleaner, must all take comfort from living in the Greener Chilterns, and a new pressure group ‘Hope for the Future’. I have enjoyed Gill Kent’s Chilterns, an area of outstanding natural articles in the past, but her complaints about a move in society towards plant-based eating beauty far – in the main – from large are at odds with the other items, and really need to be challenged. (How about one cogent centres of population and mostly at an fact: unsurprisingly, beef cattle on average need four times the daily calories and protein of altitude where the air is fresher. Most of an adult human to thrive* extended over a number of years, and yet yield relatively few meal us, I imagine, have gardens either large portions). She also states, rather bluntly, that Chiltern farmland is unsuitable for vegetables, or small which are bound to make the and yet we can see a photo of sheep on Ian Waller’s website (www.hampdenherdwicks.co.uk) problems of lockdown and self isolation foraging on what appears to be beet or kale near Great Missenden. easier to bear, but my heart goes out to those who lack this wonderful resource. In order to conserve the beauty of the conserve soil structure yet also reintroduce Chilterns and yet move towards crops that some annual flowers important to beneficial Voltaire wrote that in hard times ‘we are directly edible by people, can we perhaps insects (and so ultimately, all wildlife)? Would should cultivate our garden’ and further hear from Ian, who farms the Herdwick sheep that be economic with carbon-offset grants back in time Cicero suggested that if advertised in Chiltern 235 page 33, but who perhaps? Would it be attractive to look at? you have a garden and a library you is also mainly an arable farmer? Could we With regards, and thank you for an have everything you need. Sitting also hear views on how crop rotation might interesting issue. here in the isolation imposed by being * https://www.msdvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-beef-cattle/nutritional- extremely vulnerable, I’d just add requirements-of-beef-cattle to Cicero’s dictum – a camera. Over Easter we were blessed with glorious weather that brought out the best of Reducing water consumption my blossom trees. Where to start? Crab apple? Exachorda? Acer bloodgood? I David Halliday, by email photographed them all, but chose the Re the article Cleaner, Greener Chilterns in Chiltern 235 (p 6): to reduce water consumption acer for this letter. why not make the weekly wash a 10 day wash by wearing lightly soiled shirts and tee shirts for Garden, blossom, camera, pictures two days instead of just one? And for people who have to change their clothes during the day, – what a wealth of resources. I’m very don’t just throw them in the wash, wear them again. At least a dozen washes a year could be lucky, but doubt that I’m alone. saved this way. The same applies to crockery and dishwashers. Be careful what you wash for!

32 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 33 CHILTERN HERITAGE Alehouse tales From Helen Matthews of the Save Our Pubs Group

Many of our Chiltern pubs have well-known historical associations. The most obvious reached the top of the album charts and example is The Royal Standard of England at Forty Green, which lays claim to being earned Wakeman an Ivor Novello Award the oldest free house in England, tracing its origins back to a Saxon alehouse. The and a Grammy nomination. You won’t story is that King Charles II agreed to a change of name for this inn (formerly known find The Valiant Trooper in Holmer Green as The Ship) in recognition of the landlord’s support during the Civil War. Other local anymore and Bonnie Prince Charlie is hostelries are linked with the Parliamentarian side. Oliver Cromwell is reputed to have long gone, but the pub still exists. It’s stayed in a number of local inns, among them The Red Lion in Wendover, where he now known as The Old Oak and recently addressed his troops from the window. reopened after refurbishment. Sadly, like all other pubs, at the time of writing it’s More recently, The Red Lion made history the misgivings of his manager. Wakeman temporarily closed owing to the Covid-19 when barmaid Dolly Saville, who first wanted the audience to focus on the pandemic. started working there in 1940, died at the music and enjoy it without the distraction I’m collecting other examples of less age of 100 after 74 years of employment. of famous names. The band rehearsed in well-known stories involving Chiltern This led me to think about other Chiltern Chesham, but initially had no idea where pubs. If you have any information pubs with interesting stories that haven’t they were to perform. It was only later you’re able to share, please contact yet made the history books. If we’re to that Wakeman revealed they were to [email protected]. save our pubs, we also need to save the play two shows at the Royal Festival Hall

stories that make them unique. on 18 January 1974. The resulting album Photo: J Fitzgerald Ask for stories about Chiltern pubs and The Plough at is sure to come up. Its proximity to Chequers has led several Prime Ministers to drop in, along with their house guests. David Cameron may never be allowed to forget the time he left his daughter behind by mistake, but he also took the Chinese President there for traditional fish and chips. Other stories are less well known. In the early 1970s I attended primary school in Holmer Green. My parents often took me to the local library after school, and I remember passing The Valiant Trooper with its Bonnie Prince Charlie sign. What I didn’t know then was that prog-rock star Rick Wakeman used to play there on Sunday nights with a local band. When he recorded his album Journey to the Centre of the Earth, he decided to use this band for the live recording, despite

Society footpath maps – don’t leave home without them!

Our 32 footpath maps give comprehensive coverage of the Chilterns, from Hitchin and Hexton at one end to Goring and Mapledurham at the other.

1 Every kind of footpath, bridleway and other The maps are 2 /2 inches to 1 mile (approx. £1.95 to £2.99. The maps are available direct right of way is VERY clearly picked out, so 1:25000) scale, and even come with up to from the Society and in outlets across the you can get the most out of walking, riding four walks detailed on the back. Most of Chilterns, including garden centres, pubs, and running in the Chilterns. them are in colour, and prices range from shops and tourist information centres.

32 Chiltern 236 www.chilternsociety.org.uk 33 NEWS AND VIEWS Echoed Locations Echoed Locations was developed because soundscapes (the overall sound ‘picture’ of a place) are unique and important, and inform how we feel about it. When you step off the bus as you arrive home, it’s not just the smell of your neighbours’ garden or the sight of your front gate that makes you feel at home – it’s possibly also the steady hum of a radio nearby, your mother’s voice calling you inside or faraway traffic rumbling by. It’s only when these sounds are lost from our day-to- day lives that we really begin to listen. For example, when you arrive in a wood where no birds are singing it feels odd and you notice the absence of a familiar sound. As the world around us changes with

The hubbub of a local market (Colin Drake) increased urbanisation, big industrial projects and climate change, now is the perfect opportunity to record the Help record the sounds of the Chilterns, soundscape of the Chilterns, as a legacy for generations to come. Soundscape says the CCB’s Elizabeth Buckley recordings are increasingly being used by scientists all over the world to monitor Noise – it’s all around us and is something we mostly tune into either when it’s an the health and biodiversity of natural annoying sound (someone else’s music on the train, fighter jets overhead, rush hour environments, and this alone is a great traffic), or when we want to tune out of the environment around us (by plugging into reason to get outside and start contributing a podcast or our favourite music). But what about all the noise we aren’t listening to, to this first ever sonic map of the Chilterns. but which could have huge benefits for our mental health and wellbeing? This is where Please submit your recordings (old or ‘Echoed Locations’ comes in. new) which represent sounds across the Chilterns that mean something to you Initiated by the Chilterns Conservation You could record any of the following and make this beautiful region feel like Board as part of the Chalk, Cherries (and probably plenty we haven’t thought home. Recordings should be a minimum and Chairs Landscape Partnership, the of) as part of the project: of 30 seconds long, and no longer than 10 project aims to create a sonic map l birdsong in your local park minutes. We want to stress that no prior of the Chilterns, which can be used l rush hour traffic in your town knowledge of sound recording is required as a resource for years to come. The l a poem to get involved! You can read a short project has designed sound recording l a song ‘Sound Recording Top Tips’ document, workshops – available to local schools and l an interview with a friend or family as well as send recordings and access community groups – which focus first on member about what makes the our sonic map on our website: www. attentive listening, before moving on to Chilterns special to them chilternsaonb.org/echoed-locations. practical and accessible sound recording l rain on a windowpane If you’re interested in having a sound techniques. It aims to encourage residents, l the babble of a little stream as it recording workshop held at your school visitors and especially young people to passes through a park or community group, please get in touch contribute to the sonic map, but it isn’t l the chatter of children as they walk to with Elizabeth Buckley on lbuckley@ only natural sounds that can be submitted. school. chilternsaonb.org.

Your holiday booking can help us!

We’re delighted that, for every walking holiday booked with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays (www.ramblersholidays.co.uk/home), the Society will receive a small donation to assist in the promotion of walking in the Chilterns. Please remember to nominate the Chiltern Society when making your booking.

34 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 35 SOCIETY WALKS COVID-19 The planned walks for June and July aren’t shown here, because at present it’s not Walks start at 10am, unless stated. All participants walk at their own risk and must SUNDAY clear when group walks Usually about 5 or 6 miles, allow 2.5 hours. follow any advice and instructions from the Walk will resume. See our WEEKDAY Walks start at 10.30am. About 5 or 6 miles, allow 2.5 hours. Leaders. Participants must be equipped with website for more NB. Variations from this will be indicated in the walk description. appropriate clothing and footwear, and are also information. Enquiries regarding the walks should be directed to: advised to carry a first aid kit and water. Walk Leaders 1) Walk leader where telephone number is given, or have the authority to refuse those who in their opinion are inadequately 2) Paul Cooke 01494 778024 equipped or unfit to undertake the walk. To avoid disappointment, contact the CS = Chiltern Society Map No. Walk Leader in advance if you’re unsure of the suitability of the walk.

These walks are open to all members. Non-members are welcome to join us as guests for two or three walks, though if you walk with the group regularly you will be expected to join the Chiltern Society to support our work in caring for the Chilterns.

August O/S Grid ref August O/S Grid ref Sun 2 Meet at The Black Horse, Chesham Vale HP5 3NS Explorer 181 Sun 23 Meet at Binfield Heath Village Shop, junction of Explorer 171 (please only park in their car park if you intend GR 963045 Arch Hill and Dunsden Way RG9 4DU – parking GR 747785 to use the pub). An easy 5.5 mile varied walk, CS Maps in the small village car park or roadside. A gently CS Map 4 undulating 6 mile walk across arable fields to taking in ancient field patterns and hedges, old 8, 17 Oxon Crowsley, then through Crowsley Park and Bones earthworks, and the home of a famous author. Bucks Wood to return to Binfield Heath. Partly on The Two gentle climbs and one steep ascent, with a Chiltern Way, with good paths and tracks, and total height gain of 155m/500ft. some short sections of road. Two stiles. Optional Frank Auton 07785 276095 refreshments at The Bottle and Glass (0.5 miles before end of walk). Wed 5 Meet outside The Chequers, Fingest Lane, Explorer 171 Philippa Sanders 07710 453087 Fingest, nr. Henley-on-Thames RG9 6QD. There’s GR 777910 parking both at the pub and in the lane. A 5.5 CS Map 11 Wed 26 Meet at The Swan, Grove Lane, Little Kimble Explorer 181 mile walk, with some lane walking. One long hill Oxon HP17 9TR. Limited parking at the pub if lunching, GR 819065 otherwise park by the grass verge opposite the to Court and a descent with lovely views. CS Map 3 pub. A 6.7 mile walk via Ellesborough church Bucks No stiles. to Coombe Hill, returning along , Susan Maguire 07835 872791 passing Chequers. Great views across the Vale of Sun 9 Park roadside in Wilstone and meet outside Explorer 181 Aylesbury. 829ft of ascent. The Half Moon, HP23 4PD. An easy 6 mile walk GR 903142 Mike Fox 07836 262766 along the Aylesbury Canal to Marsworth, the CS Map 18 Sun 30 Meet opposite End School, Marlow Explorer 175 main Grand Union, Wendover Arm and Wilstone Herts Road (B482) HP14 3PE, where parking is available GR 784926 Reservoir. No stiles. If you wish to eat in the pub, on the verge. A hilly 6.75 mile walk to , CS Map 11 please book a table for 1pm (01442 826410). returning via Turville. Bucks Richard Boas 01628 527978 (Mobile on the day Peter Hetherington 07767 647714 07757 482293) Wed 12 Meet at The Marchmont Arms, Piccotts End Explorer 182 Road HP1 3AT (nr. Hemel Hempstead). A 6 mile GR 053085 SEPTEMBER figure-of-eight walk starting with a loop through CS Map 20 Wed 2 Meet at the entrance to Berkhamsted Railway Explorer 181 Gadebridge Park and back along the quaint Old Herts Station, Lower Kings Rd HP4 2AJ. Free car GR 994083 Hemel high street, then out across open fields parking nearby at Canal Fields, Broadwater CS Map 17 (with fine views to Ashridge) to Water End and turn-off (postcode HP4 1HR). A c5.5 mile walk Herts back alongside the River Gade to Piccotts End. incorporating a look at the Norman castle, then going via Berkhamsted Place to Northchurch Paul Cooke 07901 516342 Common and its WWI features, returning along Sun 16 Meet at the large lay-by by Hawridge & Explorer 181 the Grand Union Canal. Plenty of refreshment Cholesbury cricket club, Cholesbury Lane, GR 933072 opportunities in Berkhamsted afterwards. Cholesbury HP23 6ND (alternative parking CS Map 8 Brian Bowman 01844 290346 opposite the village hall, 200m west). A 5.5 Bucks Sun 6 Meet at The Five Horseshoes, Maidensgrove Explorer 171 mile walk across open country to Three Gates RG9 6EX. Use the pub car park if booked for GR 721887 Farm, then swinging north to Dundridge Manor. lunch, otherwise plentiful parking space along CS Map 9 the common. A very hilly 5 mile walk, with lovely Picking up The Chiltern Way, we return to the Oxon views (weather permitting) and no stiles. Dogs start via Drayton Wood and finally the Iron Age welcome, although may need to be on a lead at hillfort at Cholesbury. Three modest climbs and times for stock/game birds. seven stiles. Maggie Templeman 07831 878679 Stephen Groves 01494 684880/07843 381971 Wed 9 A walk from The Squirrel, Penn Street, Penn HP7 Explorer 172 Wed 19 Meet at The Chequers, Bullocks Farm Lane, Explorer 172 0PX. Park in the pub car park if you plan to stay GR 823958 Wheeler End HP14 3NH. If pre-ordering lunch GR 806926 for lunch, otherwise on the road by the common. CS Map 6 A 5.5 mile walk using fields and woods, passing on the day parking is available behind the Bucks CS Maps 1, 11 through Winchmore Hill, round the edge of the pub, otherwise park along the lane. A scenic, Bucks Penn Estate and then back through Common undulating 5.7 mile walk with several stiles. Wood and Penn Wood. No stiles. Patricia Boxell 01494 438968/07847 869506 Paul Nye 07721 642146

Central CC Hertfordshire CC (excluding Dacorum) Reporting path 0300 300 8308 01992 555279 Priory House, Monks Walk, Chicksands, Rights of Way, County Hall, Pegs Lane, Shefford SG17 5TQ Hertford SG13 8DN problems Preferably report online: [email protected]. In normal circumstances please report any http://www.centralbedfordshire.gov.uk/ path problem to our Rights of Way Group leisure/countryside/rights-of-way/public. Hertfordshire (Dacorum BC) Area Secretary covering the parish, who will aspx, identifying the path number by use of 01442 228356 then either take remedial action or prompt the map on that site; otherwise by email to Countryside Access Officer, Cupid Green the appropriate Highway Authority to do it. [email protected]. Depot, Redbourn Rd, Hemel Hempstead HP2 7BA Information about the Area Secretaries is [email protected]. shown on the Society’s website. Luton BC Oxfordshire CC If however you come across something 01582 510333 Fax: 01582 547177 Path and bridleway problems should which you feel is a safety hazard needing Highway Maintenance, Luton Borough Council, be reported using the online interactive to be handled with special urgency please Town Hall, George Street, Luton LU1 2BQ reporting system: make that known direct to the Highway [email protected]. http://publicapps.oxfordshire.gov.uk/ Authority responsible for the location (their Buckinghamshire CC 0845 230 2882 content/publicnet/council_services/ details are shown below). If you do inform Rights of Way (Operations), County Hall, environment_planning/countryside/Map/ the Highway Authority direct, it would Walton St. Aylesbury HP20 lUY ROW/row.html, or use the quick link: www. greatly help if you also informed our Area but if at all possible online at: tinyurl.com/gsbpw4y. Secretary. transportforbucks.net/report-it-prow.aspx General Rights of Way enquiries 01865 810226

34 Chiltern 236 email: [email protected] 35 In these troubled times when we’ve all been denied access to the countryside at large, or perhaps even isolated in our own homes, it seems like a good idea to treat Images of readers of the magazine to a montage of beautiful and uplifting Chiltern scenes – and who better to provide them than Colin Drake, whose photographs add so much to the spring visual impact of every issue, as well as being regularly featured in the Society’s social media posts and walking guides.

CAMPAIGNING • CONSERVING • PROMOTING