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Riga Known for its dramatic architecture, outstanding cuisine and a burgeoning art scene, ’s “Paris of the North” makes for a beautiful Baltic break

Words⁄ Maggy Lehmicke

THE BASICS > is the capital of Latvia and its biggest city – around one in three of Latvia’s two million residents live here > Founded in 1201, Riga is older than both Stockholm and St Petersburg > Today, the city is an architectural masterpiece, maintaining approximately 800 Art Nouveau buildings. Both Graham Greene and Ernest Hemingway referred to Riga as the “Paris of the North” > Norwegian flies to Riga from Oslo, Stockholm and Trondheim

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084-091_Riga-By Norwegian.indd 84 10/12/2019 08:48 The key areas

VECRĪGA A storybook quarter of quaint buildings and spired churches, the Old Town is known for its Art Nouveau buildings and cultural landmarks. The “Three Brothers” houses, and excellent 3 Pavāru Restorāns (Three Chefs Riga by n Restaurant) are all found here. 3pavari.lv, liveriga.com

MIERA IELA

The name translates as “Peace orwegian Street” and this strip of Brasa is seen by some as one of the most “hipster” scenes in the world. Make a beeline for cake lover’s fave café, Mierā (left); shop design and souvenirs at Buteljons, Taša or Ze; and finish up at arty dive bar Taka. facebook.com/mieriela

AGENSKALNS This suburb across the river is home to the city’s unique wooden architecture. Its Kalnciema Quarter, now restored, is a lovely place for a wander - or take a tour to find out how its architecture was shaped by the city’s history. kalnciemaiela.lv

JŪRMALA About 25km west of Riga, Jürmala is a relaxing resort town with sandy beaches and more than 33km of coastline. It’s a popular holiday location and a calming respite from the city. There’s plenty here for families with children, including Dzintari Forest Park

GILLY/UNSPLASH, GETTY SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGES, GILLY/UNSPLASH, and its trails. visitjurmala.lv

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084-091_Riga-By Norwegian.indd 85 10/12/2019 08:48 The local obsession Riga’s beer scene has grown dramatically – the Riga Beer District sells 100 craft beers made in the Baltics. Try them at:

Valmiermuiza Beer Embassy

Considered one Riga by n of the originators of Latvia’s craft beer movement, Valmiermuiza’s beer shop boasts the

largest selection orwegian of Latvian-brewed beer in the world. valmiermuiza.lv

Labietis Home to more than 40 varieties, the Labietis brewpub invites visitors to The face Bet you didn’t know see beer being made Raimonds Zommers, Chef that basketball is using traditional Latvia’s second methods while Last year’s Master Chef of Latvia and head chef of Entresol, major sport – after sampling at least Raimonds Zommers is known for experimenting with local ice hockey. The a dozen exciting, cuisine, and for coining the term “knapas” – a blend of Latvian Basketball experimental Association was brews on tap. “tapas” and the Latvian word “knapi,” meaning “barely founded in 1923 and labietis.lv there” – to describe the small starters he makes from the Latvian national seasonal Latvian ingredients. “I’ve always loved the taste team won its first Latviabeerfest of local products,” he says. “Every season gives us so many European basketball Each May, ale championship in 1935. different and amazing products. I like to use that as an lovers descend on advantage.” One of his favourite dishes is Latvian ostrich – Vērmanes Garden, one of the city’s paired with anything from mushrooms and potato foam to oldest public parks, asparagus and black-garlic puree, depending on the time of for a hoppy whoop- year. Although Zommers grew up outside the city, he’s now up. Try dozens of a key member of Riga’s exciting New Baltic food scene. local brews direct “Ten years ago, we were just a small group of people who from the makers, plus street food, started to popularise modern Latvian cuisine,” he says. live music and a “Now we have so many high-level restaurants and mechanical bull.

GETTY SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGES, amazing chefs.” entresol.lv latviabeerfest.lv

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084-091_Riga-By Norwegian.indd 87 10/12/2019 08:48 The breakdown Its giant pavilions were built in the 1920s and A real hub of local life, the city’s originally used as military historic market is a UNESCO World airship hangars before the Heritage site – and still attracts market opened in 1930 80,000-100,000 shoppers a day…

The kids Ethnographic Open-Air Museum of Latvia

Just a 30-minute drive from downtown Riga, Latvia’s Ethnographic Open-Air Museum is a Riga by n window back in time that appeals to all age groups. Exhibitions are held across more than Kvass, smoked fish and rye 100 historic buildings on the banks of Lake Jugla, During WWII, the market was bread are just a few Latvian renamed Central Kolkhoz Market favourites you can buy in the featuring woodworkers, farmers, weavers and and it was considered the best in market today – as well as fluffy blacksmiths who can teach young visitors about orwegian all of the USSR by Soviet press slippers, amber and caviar their crafts. brivdabasmuzejs.lv

The landmark The

A memorial honouring soldiers who were killed during the Latvian War of Independence (1918–20), the Freedom Monument is an important tribute to the country’s liberation and can be seen from across the city. Erected in 1935, it stands 42m high and is topped by a copper liberty statue holding three stars. After the Soviet occupation, the authorities considered demolishing the monument, but the idea was eventually dismissed. This reinforced its significance as a symbol of political sovereignty, and it remains a hub for public

ALAMY, GETTY NKMP ALAMY, IMAGES, events and ceremonies.

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084-091_Riga-By Norwegian.indd 89 10/12/2019 08:48 The stay Riga by n Dome Hotel & Spa

Located on a sleepy back street in the heart of Riga’s Old Town, this five-star boutique orwegian hotel seamlessly balances opulence with affordability. Housed in a 17th-century building, its landmark location is complemented by a luxurious spa and cosy seafood restaurant. domehotel.lv

Latvia is one of Europe’s The souvenir greenest nations. Amber jewellery More than 50% of the country is made up of Known locally as “Baltic gold” and “solar stone”, amber forest – including over 40 can be found all over Latvia, as the Baltic is home to one nature parks and more than 200 nature reserves. of the world’s largest deposits of the fossilised tree resin, Take advantage of local thought to originate in ancient pine trees in the area. In Riga, highlights like the 350 amber jewellery is a popular souvenir choice for visitors, and million-year-old cliffs of shops selling a range of designs can be found on nearly every Gauja National Park or the beaches, coastal trails and corner in the Old Town. The Central Market is a good place fishing villages of Slītere to start, as well as the collection of stalls and traders located National Park. latvia.travel right behind St Peter’s Church. Dzenis Amber – inconspicuously located under the House of Blackheads – is another worthwhile stop for high-quality pieces. The city even has an Amber Museum – a quaint showroom and gift shop located on a

GETTY IMAGES quiet side street in the Old Town. dzenisamber.com

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