A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

“If you’re going to have a story, have a big story, or none at all.” Joseph Campbell Introduction

The Cateran Trail is one of Scotland’s great long-distance footpaths. Fully waymarked, its circular 64-miles (103 km) route through Eastern Perthshire and the Angus Glens follows old drove roads and ancient tracks across a varied terrain of farmland, forests and moors. Some of the routes follow those used by the Caterans, the name given to the Highland cattle raiders who were the scourge of Strathardle, Glenshee and Glen Isla from the Middle Ages to the 17th century, and after whom the trail is named. A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects is the culmination of a project that invited people who live and work around the trail and visitors to propose objects that they believe tell an important part of the story of this area of Scotland through history up to the present. Typically, an object is a material thing that can be seen and touched, but that definition has been broadened to include people, places and landscapes, as well as objects relating to them. Suggestions were collected online through a public campaign over the winter of 2016/2017, and in April 2017, an advisory panel chaired by one of the founders of the Cateran Trail, Bob Ellis, selected the final 100 objects, which are described in this booklet. The project formed part of the launch programme of a bigger initiative called Cateran’s Common Wealth, which is using the Cateran Trail as a stage for a multi-year programme of diverse arts, cultural and heritage activities and events aimed at inspiring people to think about and celebrate our ‘common wealth’. In addition to publishing the final list through this booklet and displaying of some of the objects in Alyth Museum, walks, talks and online resources relating to the history, heritage and archaeology of the Cateran Trail have been developed, including digitised lesson plans designed for primary schools around the Cateran Trail. Cateran Trail Map, courtesy of Perth & Kinross Countryside Trust & Kinross of Perth courtesy Map, Trail Cateran 1 People A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The story of a place is also the story of its people, and equally, Alyth Family History Project Ballads and Songs of the Cateran the story of a people is also partly the story of their place. From Open every Sunday from Easter to Trail (various) the settlers who lived in the late Bronze Age or early Iron Age Remembrance Day in Alyth Parish The public campaign for suggestions Pitcarmick houses near Glenshee to the fearsome Cateran cattle Church, this remarkable volunteer- as to what should be included in raiders, after whom the trail is named, from Donald Cargill the led archive houses publications and ‘A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 covenanter to cultural icons Hamish Henderson and Belle and memorabilia from over 150 years, Objects’ attracted a number of entries including 6,500 photographs of local about ballads, songs and tunes from Sheila Stewart, their names and stories are as evocative as the people, schools, businesses, events, the area. Amongst the most famous landscape and places in which they lived, loved and laughed. views and weddings, Parish records is Belle Stewart’s ‘The Berry Fields o’ But as well as the more weel-kent names and faces, there are from 1623–1854, baptismal records Blair’ and ‘The Valley of Strathmore’ by the other less familiar folk whose stories are just as intertwined from the 1900s to the present day, Alyth-born Andy Stewart (former front with the landscape and place as those of their more well-known and 6,500 burial records and man of Silly Wizard and also a member neighbours. Here is the list of people and the objects relating to headstone photographs for Alyth’s of the Stewart family). Also proposed them that were chosen to be part of the final 100. three cemeteries. were ‘The Lass of Glenshee’ and the ‘Braes o’ Mount Blair’, both of which tell poignant love stories; the Reekie Linn dance tune, named after the area’s most dramatic waterfall; and the music of Jimmy Ritchie, known as ‘the Fiddler of Glenshee’, who played with Bobby MacLeod and Jimmy Shand during the period when Scottish dance music reached the peak of its popularity. home of the Alyth Family Church, Alyth Parish Cooper Clare Project,History photo

Photo, courtesy of Christopher Dingwall of Christopher courtesy Photo, Photo courtesy of the Laing Photographic Collection Photographic of the Laing courtesy Photo 5 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Belle and Sheila Stewart Blairgowrie Drunks Cart Chalmers of Morganstoune Clan MacThomas Belle and her daughter Sheila were One of Alyth Museum’s most treasured During the 18th century, a man named Dating back to the 15th century, the Scottish traditional singers and objects, this cart was used to haul Chalmers, who lived at Morganstoune, clan takes its name from a Gaelic storytellers. Their roots were in the drunks off the streets in Blairgowrie at was prepared to protect his property speaking Highlander, known as Scottish Traveller community and both the end of the 19th century. Considering fiercely from the Caterans who plotted Tomaidh Mor (‘Great Tommy’), who were born in the Blairgowrie area. the state of the roads and the wooden to murder him in his sleep. While out settled his kinsman and followers in Famous for their songs and tales from headrest inside the cart, it would not tending his cattle, Chalmers spotted Glenshee. The early chiefs of the Clan the Perthshire berry fields, their artistry have been a comfortable ride! Those some Caterans lying in wait. Pretending MacThomas were seated at the Thom, was made world famous by another found to be drunk and incapable not having seen them, he went about on the east bank of the Shee Water local, Hamish Henderson, a key figure in were sentenced to either a fine of five the rest of his business, but that night opposite the Spittal of Glenshee. This the post-World War II folk revival. shillings or 24 hours in a police cell, and stayed up to beat them at their own location is thought to be the site of the they were named and shamed in the game. Eventually, a Cateran stealthily tomb of the legendary Diarmuid of the local newspaper. tried to enter the house and was killed Fionn mac Cumhaill sagas, with which by Chalmers, who then killed a second Glenshee has so many associations. Cateran. The surviving Caterans crept away and never troubled Chalmers again. Record Cover, the Stewarts of Blair the Stewarts Cover, Record

Blairgowrie Drunks Cart, photo Clare Cooper Drunks Cart, Clare Blairgowrie photo Clach na Coileach or Cockstane, the gathering Clach na Coileach or Cockstane, Greig, Kevin by of the Clan McThomas place staneswinames.org

Chalmers of Morganstoune by Ian Kirkwood by of Morganstoune Chalmers

7 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Curling Stones Donald McCoull Duff Memorial Church Fionn mac Cumhaill Curling was a popular winter sport As you cross the River Ardle by Born in the parish of Moulin in 1806, The legends of Fionn mac Cumhaill, around the Cateran Trail area whenever Enochdhu, the hillside immediately Alexander Duff was first educated in the famous Irish Giant, and his band the ponds developed sufficiently to the west is known to locals as Cnoc what is now the Kirkmichael Session of warriors, the Fianna, loom large thick ice, which was more common Donald Mor, and one of the streams as House. He went on to St. Andrews in Glenshee. Indeed, new research during 1300–1850 AD when Scotland Donald McCoull’s Burn. Tradition has University where he studied theology, has found evidence that the density experienced the effects of the Little it that ‘Big Donald’ was a notorious before being chosen as the Church of of place names connected to this Ice Age. In the Blairgowrie entry in the sheep rustler in the glen around 1700, Scotland’s first missionary in India. great myth is unprecedented here in Statistical Account of 1795, Rev Mr although for a long time no one could After an initial spell in India, during Scotland. Two ballads in particular James Johnston ended his description track him down. His underground which he had an important part to seem to locate Glenshee in the Fenian of the lakes of the parish with these hideout was eventually given away play in changing and modernising legends. One, ‘Laoidh Dhiarmaid’ (‘The words: “Curling is an exercise at when smoke was seen rising from a the country’s educational system, he Lay of Diarmuid’), tells how Diarmuid, which the inhabitants of this district hole in the ground, where his daughters returned to Scotland, where he rose a colleague of Fionn, dies on Ben excel.” So popular was the game in the were roasting one of the stolen sheep. to become moderator of the Free Gulabin at the head of Glenshee, killed area that when the railway line was As recorded in the Transactions of the Church of Scotland. During further by a boar. Other place names include constructed between Coupar Angus and Gaelic Society of Inverness, there was visits to India, Duff also played a part in Creag nam Brataichean or ‘crag of the Blairgowrie, a special halt for curlers no escape for Donald “…as the circle establishing the University of Calcutta. banners’ and Fèith nan Ceann, now was constructed at the side of Stormont of his foes closed closer and closer The Cateran Trail passes by the Duff known as the farming hamlet Finegand, Loch, complete with platform. around him, till he hanged himself with Memorial Free Church in Kirkmichael, meaning ‘bog of the heads’. a rope he had used so long for tying his designed by L & J G Falconer in 1890, stolen sheep. This he did on top of Cnoc but which is now disused and sadly Donald Mor”. It is said that Donald’s dilapidated. ghost continues to haunt that part of the glen.

photo Fingal and Corban Cargla by Alexander Alexander by Fingal and Corban Cargla photo Runciman © National Galleries Scotland Curling Competition, Curling Collection Photographic of the Laing courtesy photo,

Duff Memorial Church, Dingwall of Christopher courtesy photo Greig, Kevin Donald McCoull by staneswinames.org 9 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Hamish Henderson Ian Kirkwood James Croll James Sandy Born in Blairgowrie and brought up Ian Kirkwood lives on the Cateran Trail Born the son of a stonemason in Cargill, James Sandy was born in Alyth in to speak Gaelic, Hamish spent his in Kirkmichael, from where he works James Croll had a limited education, about 1766. Crippled in both legs as first five years in Glenshee, going on as an illustrator, graphic designer yet was fascinated by the world around a result of two separate accidents, he to be schooled in England at Dulwich and beekeeper. He is also the creator him from his boyhood. He suffered nevertheless went on to become known College, and then at Downing College of Strathardle Archers and the Enjukan several failures as a millwright, joiner, as ‘the Alyth Genius’ for his remarkable Cambridge. He has been called the Dojo (Japanese swordsmanship). shopkeeper, insurance salesman and creativity and ingenuity. Among many most important Scots poet since Robert When not sailing to the Faroes, he temperance hotelier in Blairgowrie other items, he made musical and Burns and is considered to be the gets on his high horse as a Georgist before a series of fortunate events fine optical instruments and clocks. founding father of Scotland’s 20th blogger, pushing for Scottish tax introduced him first to the Andersonian He suggested improvements for flax century folk renaissance. He was also reform. His work features on the many Museum in Glasgow and later to the spinning machinery and he even an accomplished folk song collector and interpretation boards around the trail. Geological Survey. Intrigued by the made artificial limbs and false teeth. discovered such notable performers Ian’s illustrated story ‘Rob and Bo Ban’, recent discovery that Scotland and He is most famous as the inventor as the Stewarts of Blair, Jeannie set in Strathardle and Glenshee, tells much of the Northern Hemisphere of a special type of wooden-hinged Robertson, Flora MacNeil and Calum the story of how the Caterans were had been buried by glaciers, Croll snuff box. His concealed hinge did not Johnston. An exceptional man in many outwitted by a young boy minding his went on to join the Geological Survey. get clogged with grains of snuff and ways, he served as an intelligence family’s cattle. He developed revolutionary theories when the box closed it was airtight. He officer in Europe and North Africa; was about climate change, which earned became well known for his skill and a communist, linguist and intellectual; him the admiration of fellow scientists, inventive mind and his home was a co-founded the School of Scottish such as naturalist Charles Darwin and meeting place for many distinguished Studies; and wrote songs in addition to astronomer William Herschel, and that people. His tombstone in the Alyth poetry, one of his most famous lyrics are still relevant today. Though largely Arches graveyard was erected by public being ‘The Freedom Come-All-Ye’. forgotten, Croll has recently had a subscription. memorial erected to his memory in a courtyard next to the Fair Maid’s House in Perth, now the home of the Royal Scottish Geographical Society. The Mount Blair Giants, Colly Camb and Ian Kirkwood by Smoutachantay,

Box, Mauchlineware Museum & Art Gallery Perth courtesy Photo Bust of Hamish Henderson, Museum & Art Gallery of Perth courtesy photo

James Croll, photo wikimedia commons photo James Croll, 11 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Jane Spindler & The Kirkmichael Plague Victims The Lair Spindle-whorl The Blairgowrie Boys There is a corner of Kirkmichael The Lair spindle-whorl was found in Blairgowrie has been a quiet haven for Fair-Weather; David Farquharson, Parish churchyard where, despite the 2015 during the excavation of a Pictish artists since the early 1800s. It was the another landscape painter; William lack of space, there are no marked turf longhouse (AD 700–900) by the home of William Geddes, a self-taught Miller Frazer, who became known for graves. This is because in 1350 AD, a Glenshee Archaeology Project. The artist who became well known as a his Corot-like landscapes; Robert terrible plague, the Galor Mor, better spindle-whorl would have been used painter of scenes from Scottish life and Herdman, who gained a reputation known as the Black Death, struck to add weight and momentum to the as a painter of fish. He became the as a painter of historical subjects and the glen and its victims were buried spindle during hand-spinning yarn. central figure of a small group of painters portraits; George Murray who specialised in unmarked graves. To ward off the The Lair spindle-whorl features intricate who gathered in the town, known as ‘The in decorative painting and mosaics; plague, the Bishop of Dunkeld visited graffiti-like marks carved into one side Blairgowrie Boys’. They included his two and the only woman in the group, his surrounding parishes administering of the siltstone. Some marks look like sons, Ewan and Robert Smith Geddes; Jane Elizabeth Spindler, a painter of consecrated items, one of which was the body of a stag with lines depicting Thomas Bromley Blacklock, a close landscape, rustic scenes and interiors water into which the bones of St. antlers. Other groups of incisions friend of Ewan; James Michael Brown, a in oil and watercolour, who came Columba had been dipped. Those may be crude attempts at rune-like portrait painter; Thomas Stuart Burnett, from a musical family in Dundee and who drank the water lived; those who script. This object is a fascinating a sculptor; William Dickson, a landscape established a studio in Blairgowrie refused to drink died. The bishop representation of early medieval and still-life painter; Adam Burnett during the late 1880s. declared that the bones of those who material culture, with the casual succumbed to the plague would retain doodling quality of the inscriptions the disease, and the corner of the making it noteworthy in Scotland. churchyard where they were buried remains undisturbed. Lair Spindle Whorl, Lair Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo

Kirkmichael Churchyard, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Kirkmichael Churchyard, Two Salmon by Wiliam Geddes, Salmon by Two Museum & Art Gallery Perth courtesy photo

13 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Major William Caulfeild Mrs Macdonald’s Memorial The Napoleonic Bell, Alyth Town Hall Pictish Warriors Major William Caulfeild was an officer South of the trail from the Spittal This bell is displayed in the foyer of When the Romans came north to in the British Army. He was made of Glenshee to Glen Isla, walkers Alyth Town Hall. It was captured from what is now modern Scotland, they Inspector of Roads for Scotland in 1732, pass a memorial on top of a small the French frigate ‘La Nécessité’ during encountered the fierce, proud warrior and after the departure of General hill. The inscription reads “To the the Napoleonic Wars by HMS Horatio society known as the Picts. The Wade, became responsible for directing beloved memory of Clara Anne and presented to Alyth in 1810 by the Cateran Trail lies in their heartlands. the British Government’s construction Jane Chamberlayne Brownlow, Mrs ship’s purser, John Warden, a native of Known by the Romans as ‘Picti’ of new roads and bridges in the Macdonald of St. Martins, who departed the town. Cast at Quimper in Brittany in (‘Painted Ones’), these northern tribes Highlands aimed at bringing order to this life on Sunday 16th December 1789, it was hung in the bell tower and constituted the largest kingdom in a part of the country that had rebelled 1883. This cross is erected by her many was regularly rung until the millennium Dark Age Scotland. Living in a series in the Jacobite rising of 1715. Although friends and neighbours”. Mrs Macdonald celebrations of 2000, after which it was of loose tribal confederations, they he is not as well-known as Wade, had requested that when she died, discovered to be damaged. were gradually brought together by Caulfeild oversaw the construction of there should be no display, or anyone external forces to create one of the many more roads than his predecessor. asked to her funeral. However, she was earliest states in Europe. After fending General Wade was responsible for held in such esteem that a great cortege off the Romans, Angles and Vikings, the 250 miles (400 km) of road, 40 bridges processed from Perth via Mavisbank, Picts merged with their cousins, the and two forts, whereas Caulfeild was Isla Bridge, Blairgowrie, Bridge of Cally Scots of Argyll, under the leadership of responsible for 900 miles (1,400 km) of and Persie until it reached Glenshee Kenneth MacAlpin, to create modern road and over 600 bridges. One of the Lodge where she was buried in private. Scotland. main roads Caulfeild was responsible for constructing ran from Braemar to Blairgowrie and parts of it can still be seen along the Cateran Trail, including the impressive 12-foot-wide humpback bridge at the Spittal of Glenshee, British Museum print thought to have been constructed between 1749 and 1763. Alyth’s Napoleonic Bell, photo Clare Cooper Clare Napoleonic Bell, photo Alyth’s the 16thc artist John White, Pictish Warrior as imagined by Caulfeild Military Bridge Glenshee, Military Caulfeild Logan George photo Mrs Macdonald’s memorial photo Clare Cooper Clare memorial photo Macdonald’s Mrs 15 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Poets of the Cateran Trail, The Polish Army Queen Victoria’s Plaque Quern Stones William Pyott and James Geddes After the German invasion of Poland in The part of the Cateran Trail that links These were used throughout Scotland Two mid-Victorian poets of some 1939, many Poles left their homeland to the Spittal of Glenshee to Enochdhu into the 20th century to grind grain into distinction were associated with make their way first to France, and then, was a route taken by Queen Victoria flour. A complete rotary quern consists Eastern Perthshire. Born at Ruthven in after France fell, to the UK to carry on on several occasions when travelling of an upper and lower quern stone. Forfarshire, William Pyott lived nearly the fight. Hundreds came to Blairgowrie from Deeside to Dunkeld on horseback. The lower stone remains stationary his whole life in Blairgowrie. His father, and Alyth. The headquarters of the 1st As well as being recorded in her book and the upper stone is turned manually a native of Blairgowrie, was a mill Tank Regiment was in Blairgowrie, and ‘More Leaves from the Journal of a Life as the grain is fed down a central hole overseer, and Pyott himself worked in the Signals Centre was in Alyth. The in the Highlands’, one such journey in the upper stone. Grain is crushed the mills. Although no great scholar, first soldiers and airmen came in 1941 in 1866 involved a visit to Kindrogan, between the two stones, pushed to he was a widely read man. One volume and the last are thought to have left during which she paused for tea on the the edge of the stone, and caught on of his poems, published in 1869, was in 1947. Whilst many passed through banks of the River Ardle. This event a cloth or table under the quern. The so popular that it was re-published or were stationed locally for short is commemorated by a brass plaque mixture of flour, grains and husk is three times. James Y. Geddes, a tailor periods, some stayed and married local beside the riverside path leading often processed two or three times to and clothier, spent his life between women. Indeed so many local people from Enochdhu to Kindrogan, a short achieve the required fineness. Querns Dundee and Alyth. He published several took the visitors to their hearts that distance from the trail. require a hard stone, such as granite, collections of poems, including ‘The plaques were left by the Polish army in because the constant grinding erodes New Jerusalem and Other Verses’, both Blairgowrie and Alyth when they softer stones. which were well received. departed, in commemoration of the hospitality and affection shown to them. Quenn Victoria’s Plaque, Quenn Victoria’s Dingwall Christopher photo

Quern Stone, Musuem & Art Gallery of Perth courtesy Photo Commemorative Plaque, Blairgowrie Town Hall, Town Plaque, Blairgowrie Commemorative Ian Richards photo Clock of Alyth’, the subject of Geddes’ poem ‘The Spectre Church, Alyth Parish Collection Photographic of the Laing courtesy photo 17 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Caterans The Flemish of Glenshee The Green Lady of Newton Castle ‘Cateran’ derives from the Gaelic raids began after the mid-14th century, Intriguingly, there were many people Green Lady myths are deep-rooted word ‘ceatharn’ meaning ‘warrior’, one Scottish historian has highlighted of Flemish (modern-day Holland and in Scottish folklore. Green Ladies are but usually one that is lightly reasons including the aftermath Belgium) origin in Glenshee from early frequently involved in doomed love armed. Despite the term historically of the wars with England, plague, in the 17th century until the Industrial affairs, and are often associated with referring to a band of fighting men and environmental factors, such as Revolution. In Scotland, the Industrial fresh water and portrayed as the spirits of a Scottish Highland clan, in the climate change; it became wetter and Revolution began in the late 18th of women enchanted by fairies. The Scottish Lowlands, Cateran came to colder from about 1315. These factors century and early 19th century, and Green Lady who haunts Newton Castle, epitomise Highland cattle raiding and resulted in a fall in population and created an incentive for people to move Blairgowrie, home of the Macpherson is indicative of a Lowland perception of greater difficulty in raising crops in the from rural areas, such as Glenshee, to Clan since 1787, is said to be Lady a particularly Gaelic Highland problem. Highlands, which was always marginal cities like Dundee that could offer better Jean Drummond of Newton, who had Throughout the Middle Ages, and until land. Thus, two alternative ways of employment opportunities. If the local fallen in love with one of the Blairs of shortly before the Jacobite risings of the making a living—herding cattle and oral tradition is correct, the Flemish Ardblair. The families had feuded and 18th century, the records of the Scottish raiding cattle—became more prevalent. also left a major footprint on the slopes Lady Jean pined away with a broken government bristle with complaints Another historian offers evidence that of the glen. There is the remnant of heart, drowning herself after she was about the activities of the Caterans. In in the 1740s and 1750s, scattered bands a settlement at Easter Bleaton in the betrothed to another man. However, an the 14th century, the problem became of Jacobite Highlanders refused to give south of Glenshee that local people old ballad tells it differently. It claims so acute that a council decided that up their battle with the British Army believe to have been occupied by Lady Jean had consulted a local witch Caterans should be arrested or killed and relied on cattle raiding to survive, the Flemish, possibly in the 17th and after her lover spurned her. She was on sight. But what gave rise to the continuing inter-tribal activity that he 18th centuries, and documentary given an enchanted green dress, which Caterans and why did they attack believes had been part of clan life for evidence suggests that there were won him back, but she died shortly after places like Glenshee, Glen Isla and many centuries and that may have had Flemings and Spaldings (both families marrying him. Strathardle? Given that the Cateran its origins as far back as the Iron Age. of Flemish origin) living in the south of Glenshee around the time that the settlement was inhabited. The green Lady o’ Newton, illustrated by Alyson Macneill, by illustrated Newton, o’ Lady The green Fleming of Maurice courtesy Greig, Kevin in Glenshee by A Cateran staneswinames.org Bleaton, Easter Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo 19 Places A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Small Monument, Kirkmichael Place names are an important part of our geographical and cultural A substantial length of the Cateran Trail environment and are a window through which we can glimpse our past. runs over land that was once owned by They identify geographical entities and represent cultural values of vital James Small, an important 19th century significance to people’s sense of well-being and identity. They help to tell Scottish Laird from Kirkmichael. As stories and reveal much about the history of language use. The Pictish, well as the local estate of Dirnanean, Gaelic, and Scots languages can be found in the place names along the Mr Small owned as much as 20,000 Cateran Trail and the names all reveal important information about past acres of land in the surrounding area land use, especially in terms of agriculture, hunting, authority, justice, and played a prominent role in village archaeology, and myths and legends. We list the places and objects life. Following his death on June 29, relating to them that were chosen to be part of the final 100 objects. 1900 at the age of 65, an obituary in the Blairgowrie Advertiser read: “To a thorough practical knowledge of country life in all its aspects, he brought a soundness of judgement, a kindness of heart and a readiness to help, which made him a friend, and often the adviser, to all who knew him”. Standing an imposing 18 foot high at the junction of the A924 and B950 on the outskirts of Kirkmichael, this Aberdeenshire granite structure commemorates his life. Old Pack Bridge Alyth, photo by Clare Cooper Clare by Bridge Alyth, photo Old Pack The Small Monument, photo Clare Cooper The Small Monument, Clare photo

21 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Alyth Alyth Arches Auchintaple Loch Bamff Beaver Project Alyth, from the Gaelic ‘aileach’ meaning This ancient place in Alyth stands on the Auchintaple Loch, in Glen Isla, which Hunted out in Scotland by the 16th ‘rocky place’, is situated on the Alyth site of a 6th century Church dedicated has a boat house on the far side, is often century, beavers are one of the Burn, a little over half an hour’s drive to St. Moluag, a contemporary of St. named as a favourite spot by walkers world’s best natural engineers, with north-east of Perth and north-west of Columba who evangelised the Picts. on the Cateran Trail. There are traces of an incredible ability to create new Dundee. It lies at the foot of the Hill of The Arches are made up of a three-arch an early chapel at Chapel Hillock on a wetlands, restore native woodland Alyth in the valley of Strathmore close to structure with broad octagonal columns low rise just above the loch, identifiable and improve conditions for a wide Perthshire’s Eastern boundary with Angus. in the Romanesque style. It formed by a turf-covered stony bank enclosing range of species, including dragonflies, Created a burgh with a market in 1488 by the North arcade separating the nave a slight hollow containing several otters and fish. After successful beaver James III, Alyth developed in association from the north aisle of the church and stones. Near to the chapel is the Lady reintroductions all over mainland with cattle droving and the wool, jute and dates from around 1500, although the Well or Virgin Mary’s Well, which is still Europe, conservation organisations linen trades. Its Market Cross dates from architecture of the arcade is similar to supplied with a plentiful flow of clear in the UK began to discuss bringing 1670, and by the early 1900s it was a the St. Andrews Holy Trinity of around water. The wells in the area were once the beaver back in the 1990s. thriving centre for retail and commercial 1410, and records of a church on this site known for their curative properties, However, consultation led to years enterprise with 100 shops along its go back to 1352. The east section is the and many people visited in search of of disagreement and delay, so some bustling streets. Today, it has the only oldest part of the church and is notable a miracle cure. It was thought that the environmentalists decided to start museum outside of Perth in Perthshire, in having three aumbries in the wall, first Sabbath in May was a day on which a number of private demonstration a flourishing artistic community, and in which the vessels of the sacraments the waters had their greatest effect, projects in large enclosures. The first a growing tourism economy, which is were kept. Aumbries are triangular, and drinking from the well before of these took place at Bamff near Alyth building on the many natural and cultural square, or rectangular niches, which sunrise was considered even more in 2002, when Paul and Louise Ramsay heritage assets in and around the town. once would have had doors. propitious. brought in two Norwegian beavers. These assets include the Cateran Trail, In November 2016, the beaver was the Den o’ Alyth and various sites of officially designated as a native British historical and archaeological interest, species by the Scottish Secretary such as the Alyth Arches, the Pack Bridge, for Environment and given formal which dates to around 1500, the Pictish protection. symbol stone in the parish church, and many other places nearby. Alyth Arches, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Alyth Arches, Loch, Auchintaple Countryside Trust & Kinross Perth courtesy photo A beaver at Bamff, photo Paul Ramsay Paul photo A beaver at Bamff,

Alyth, looking up the Alyth Burn, Logan George photo, 23 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Blairgowrie and Rattray Bridge of Cally Burnt Mounds The Cateran Trail’s circular route runs provided by the many textile mills, Bridge of Cally is small village just These elusive fire sites can be difficult through Blairgowrie and Rattray, the which were built along the River Ericht. north of Blairgowrie through which to identify but there are several close largest town outside of Perth City. It By 1870 there were 12 mills along the Cateran Trail runs. The village sits to the Cateran Trail. Their purpose is was created by an Act of Parliament the river employing nearly 2000 men at the junction of the glens Glenshee unknown but because they are mostly in 1928, which united two burghs. and women, although all are now and Strathardle where they combine to near springs, it has been suggested Blairgowrie lies on the southwest side closed. Soft fruit growing, mainly of form a third, Glenericht, and is centred that they were ancient cooking sites in of the River Ericht, whereas Rattray is raspberries and strawberries, developed round the bridge over the River Ardle. which red hot stones were used to boil on the northeast side. Old Rattray, the in the 20th century and became an The new Snow Road from Blairgowrie the cooking water. Alternatively they area round Rattray Kirk, dates back important part of the town’s economy into the Cairngorm Mountains follows could be the site of religious ceremonies to the 12th century and New Rattray with Smedley’s opening a cannery and the line of the 18th century military or a type of sauna. from 1777 when the River was spanned Adamson’s opening a jam factory. Huge road, crossing the River Ardle where by the Brig o’ Blair. The town, referred quantities of table berries and pulp the new road forms a junction with the to by locals as ‘Blair’, developed over were despatched to markets and jam A924 road to Kirkmichael and Pitlochry. the centuries at the crossroads of factories throughout Britain and berry The village is popular in winter as it is several historic routes to Perth, Coupar pickers were bussed in from Perth, near the Glenshee Ski Centre and has Angus, Alyth and Braemar. The roads to Dundee and further afield, mainly from a hotel, a post office/general store, an Coupar Angus and Braemar form part the Glasgow area. They were joined angling book shop, a village hall and of General Wade’s military road from by the travelling community who a large holiday park. The Bridge of Perth to Fort George. The population congregated here for the berry season. Cally Hotel, formerly known as the of the town expanded hugely in the The berries are now mostly picked by Invercauld Arms, was for a long time a 19th century because of the employment migrant labourers from Eastern Europe. temperance establishment with alcohol being served for the first time in the Logan George Burnt Mound photo

1960s. Bridge of Cally in 1927, photo courtesy of the courtesy Bridge of Cally in 1927, photo Collection Photographic Laing Blairgowrie Wellmeadow, photo © Perth & Kinross Heritage Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo Wellmeadow, Blairgowrie 25 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Cargill’s Leap Cateran Café Clach a’ Mhoid Coupar Abbey Donald Cargill, born in Rattray, was a This excellent establishment in the The authority of local lords is expressed This Cistercian Abbey, one of Scotland’s Presbyterian minister and Covenanter. centre of Blairgowrie is owned by in a small number of place names, most important monasteries, was The Covenanters pledged to maintain George and June Gall. The welcome mostly in the form of court or habitation founded by Malcolm IV (1153–65) in their own way of worship following from them and their staff is warm and mounds. Clach a’ Mhoid (‘Stone of 1162. It was an abbey of considerable the signing of the National Covenant friendly and you can have anything Justice’) in Glenshee is a huge boulder size and wealth and it operated for in 1638, hence their name. However, from a cup of tea and a scone to a where the local lords would have more than four centuries before it during the latter half of Charles II’s hearty meal. If you are heading off to exerted their authority by adjudicating was turned into a secular lordship reign, Presbyterianism was outlawed by walk the Cateran Trail from Blairgowrie, in small criminal trials not involving for James Elphinstone by the Scottish the Scottish Parliament. Ministers who this is a great place to start your journey the four pleas of the Crown (murder, Parliament in 1606 and by royal resisted were evicted from the Church. as they are open early. The café is busy, rape, treason, and robbery), and charter in 1607. Although slightly Cargill, like many other ministers, was but you can reserve a table, and, if the especially in local disputes over land away from the Cateran Trail, the abbey forced to hold illegal meetings called weather is fine, you can sit outside. and other rights. The evidence in place was a substantial land owner in the ‘conventicles’. These meeting were often names has enabled historians and 13th and 14th centuries, controlling broken up by the military and those archaeologists to appreciate the extent more than 8,000 acres, some of which captured were cruelly treated. On one of court hills in Scotland; otherwise extended up through Bridge of Cally occasion Cargill managed to escape the the majority of these sites would have and Monks Cally into Strathardle. troops by leaping a very narrow part of gone unrecorded. Today, there is almost no trace of the the River Ericht just above Blairgowrie. abbey, part of it having been wrecked He was eventually captured in 1681 and by Protestant reformers, and the taken to Edinburgh where he was found remainder having served as a source guilty of treason and executed. of building stone for the neighbouring town of Coupar Angus. Cateran Cafe, photo George Logan George photo Cafe, Cateran Clach a’Mhoid, or the Stone of Justice by by of Justice Clach a’Mhoid, or the Stone staneswinames.org Greig, Kevin Old postcard of Cargill’s Leap of Cargill’s Old postcard Remains of Coupar Abbey, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo of Coupar Abbey, Remains

27 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Den o’ Alyth Diarmuid’s Grave Fermtouns Glenshee Lodge The Den (‘narrow valley’ or ‘gorge’) Diarmuid was a brave and handsome Old maps of the area show that from Between Westerton of Runavey and o’ Alyth is a wooded glen through warrior who fell in love with Gráinne, early times until the 18th century, the Invereddrie, the Cateran Trail passes which the Alyth Burn runs. Part of the the wife of Fionn mac Cumhaill, the valley sides of Strathardle, Glenshee around the grounds of Glenshee Lodge. geography of the Highland Boundary famous Irish giant. The king, hoping to and Glen Isla were scattered with Timothy Pont’s map of ca.1595 marks Fault, it is close to the trail on the get rid of Diarmuid, ordered him to kill numerous ‘fermtouns’, consisting of an important house or settlement at outskirts of Alyth, and much of the a huge ferocious boar living in a ravine small groups of thatched stone cottages this location by the name of Ruy na Vey. stone quarried to build parts of Alyth in on Ben Gulabin (‘The Boar’s Snout’) and byres. The settlements were By the end of the 18th century, there earlier times was quarried from here. in Glenshee. Diarmuid, seeing this occupied by families who cultivated was a substantial mansion or shooting Designated as a Site of Special Scientific as an opportunity to appease Fionn, the surrounding land and grazed their lodge recorded on maps as Runavey. Interest, the Den’s ancient woodland agreed, sought out the boar, and fought sheep and cattle on the neighbouring The present house, a shooting lodge is of semi-natural origin, comprising and killed it. Fionn then insisted that hills. Although some of these probably built on the site of the earlier native species, such as ash, oak, birch Diarmuid measure the length of the settlements have been replaced by house, is one of the earliest houses and hazel, and non-native species, boar. Diarmuid measured the boars more modern houses and farmsteads, in Scotland to have been built using such as beech and sycamore. A variety back by using his feet; however, some of many were abandoned, with some concrete, ratherthan traditional building of wildlife is regularly spotted among the bristles from the boar’s back pierced surviving as ruins, as at East Lair in materials. Renamed Glenshee Lodge, the oak, ash, beech and birch trees, his foot and the wounds became Glenshee, close to the Cateran Trail. the house is home to the Compass including red squirrels, tree creepers infected. Although there was a cure for Easter Bleaton is an exceptionally well- Christian Centre, founded in 1967, and great tits, whereas dippers and grey the infection, Fionn poured it into the preserved example of a post-medieval which provides outdoor activities. wagtails live by the water. Shee Water and Diarmuid died within rural farming settlement, offering a the day. On hearing of his death, Queen valuable insight into rural farming life in Gráinne killed herself by falling on an the Cateran Trail area at an important arrow. Legend has it that the burial time of change. place of Diarmuid and Gráinne lies close to the CateranTrail in Glenshee. Glenshee Lodge, photo Christopher Dingwall Christopher photo Glenshee Lodge, Den o’ Alyth, photo by George Logan George by Alyth, photo Den o’ Fermtoun, of Invereddrie Building remains Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth Photo Diarmuid’s Grave, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Grave, Diarmuid’s

29 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Kirkmichael Kirkmichael Village Shop Lime Kilns Memorial to Jubra the Dog Located in Strathardle 13 miles north- As well as serving as a grocery store and Many lime kilns can be seen along the Several hundred metres uphill on west of Blairgowrie, the village dates post office for the folk of Strathardle trail as almost every farm and fermtoun the Cateran path from the Spittal of back over 1,000 years and was once an and Glenshee, the well-stocked, had one. Working the kilns was a skilled Glenshee to Strathardle stands a stone important market in the cattle trade community-run Kirkmichael Village task. The limestone (calcium carbonate) memorial that would be quite at home between the Highlands and Lowlands, Shop also offers a cosy café, well-known was heated to give quicklime (calcium in the nearby kirkyard. This memorial with various drove roads converging on for its home baking. Walkers on the oxide), which was mixed with water stone, erected just over a century ago, the village. The area became popular as Cateran Trail can be sure of a warm to produce slaked lime (calcium reads “In memory of Jubra, only a dog a holiday resort after Balmoral Castle welcome, whether they are looking for hydroxide). Adding slaked lime or but loving friend of his master’s mother was built for Queen Victoria’s in nearby rest and refreshment or for provisions quicklime to the land raised the soil pH and his master, faithful, obedient and Deeside, and many of the local shooting for the next stage of their journey. and improved its fertility. The largest affectionate companion for ten long lodges, known as “big houses”, were deposit of limestone in the area is years. Born in the NWP India, died at built at that time. Although the village between Kirkmichael in Strathardle and Caenlochan”. The dog’s name, Jubra, is picturesque and peaceful place now, Blacklunans in Glenshee, with an active comes from a small area close to India’s in the days of the Covenanters, who quarry at Wester Bleaton. border with Nepal. opposed the Stuart kings interfering in the affairs of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland, rival armies caused much destruction in the area. Despite its small permanent population of around 150, Kirkmichael is a vibrant and lively community with Scottish Women’s Institute meetings, a knitting group, a Logan George Kirkmichael Village Shop photo book club, a village bloom group, an annual flower festival, a Highland games, pub quiz nights, a pool team, a darts

team, various youth groups, and more. staneswinames.org Greig, Kevin Balloch Kiln by Memorial to Jubra the Dog, photo George Logan George the Dog, photo Jubra Memorial to Kirkmichael Village Hunter Andrew by painted 31 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Oakbank Mill Public Transport Rivers: River Isla, Alyth Burn, The Serpent Stane, Loch Beanie The waters of the River Ericht at Today, the only public transport Shee Water, Blackwater, River Ardle, The Serpent Stane is a large boulder Blairgowrie once drove a remarkable available in the Cateran Trail area is River Ericht, and Lornty Burn on the north side of Loch Beanie. The series of 14 spinning mills. Originally the Stagecoach bus service, numbers The Cateran Trail crosses seven rivers stane can be accessed easily from the working with flax, but later mostly 57 and 71. These are lifeline services or burns. Furthest to the east is the Compass Christian Centre just off the spinning jute, these enterprises brought allowing people to access school, work, River Isla, which flows south from A93, or by the unclassified road from employment and prosperity to the area. further education, shops, medical Caenlochan Glen at the head of Glen Forter to Auchavan and the Glen Beanie Between 1801 and 1881, the population facilities and various daily activities. Isla. In its course, just downstream of track by Dalvanie Farm. The stane bears of Blairgowrie rose from less than 1,000 They also allow walkers and tourists to Bridge of Craigisla, is the Reekie Linn, a curious twisting hole and several to over 7,000. This was a direct result access the areas around the Cateran one of Scotland’s finest waterfalls. deep slashes, which were reputedly of the growth of the spinning industry Trail and they link this part of East Further on, the River Isla is joined by made by the local laird, who blamed a which, at its peak, employed about Perthshire with the cities of Dundee the Alyth Burn which drains the Forest witch for the death of his infant son. He 2,500 people. Oakbank Mill was one and Perth. Between 1855 and 1965 of Alyth between Glenshee and Glen came upon the witch one day and he of these spinning mills. It was built by there were branch line railways serving Isla, passing close to Bamff and forming drew his sword to kill her but was too James Grimond and was the first mill Alyth and Blairgowrie. Prior to that, the the Den o’ Alyth. In Glenshee, the Shee slow and she changed into a viper and in Scotland to spin jute successfully. only public transport would have been Water becomes the Blackwater for a slid into the hole. In his frustration, the The jute was softened with whale oil; the horse bus, which would have also short distance before it joins the River laird struck the stane with his sword. cut into lengths, heckled, where the carried the mail. Ardle near Bridge of Cally, at which The witch taunted him from inside the fibres were drawn into straight, tangle- point the two rivers combine to form stane “Laird! As long as you look at your free lengths; spun into 3-lb yarn; and the River Ericht. After flowing through empty cradle and I at my stone, we may mixed with tow for the weft of osnaburg the spectacular Craighall Gorge, the meet and crack, but we can never be (a coarse, plain fabric) and hessian River Ericht divides the towns of friends.” Blairgowrie and Rattray before entering sheeting. The jute was a fine fibre and the Vale of Strathmore. Further to the this tradition of producing fine jute west, the Cateran Trail crosses the threads was carried on in Blairgowrie Lornty Burn, a tributary of the River into the 1940s. Ericht, which drains Cochrage Muir and the Muir of Gormack. Alyth Railway Station, photo courtesy of the courtesy photo Station, Alyth Railway Collection Photographic Laing

or the Serpent Stane, Clach na Nathrice staneswinames.org Greig, Kevin by

Interior of a Blairgowrie Mill, photo courtesy of the courtesy Mill, photo of a Blairgowrie Interior Collection Photographic Laing The River Isla, Trust Heritage & Kinross © of Perth photo 33 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Shanzie Souterrain Shooting Estates The Bannerfield, Kirkmichael Ardle’s Grave Souterrain (from the French ‘sous From the late 18th century onwards, A large area of open ground on the west Near the former gate lodge of terrain’, meaning ‘underground’) is many of the scattered cottages and bank of the River Ardle, just south of the Dirnanean House, close to the hamlet the archaeological name for a type fermtouns in the glens were abandoned village of Kirkmichael, is known as the of Enochdhu, lies what is reputed to be of underground structure associated as the land was purchased by wealthy Bannerfield. It was here in September the grave of a Pictish warrior named mainly with the European Atlantic Iron families from the Lowlands who wished 1715 that John Erskine, 6th Earl of Mar Ard-fhuil who is said to have given Age that may have been used for to possess estates in the Highlands to raised a flag in support of the exiled his name to the surrounding area of storage. One of these can be found at which they could retreat in summer Stuart King James VIII, known as the Strathardle. He was believed to have Shanzie near Alyth where excavations to indulge in field sports such as deer Old Pretender, and gathered many been a Caledonian of noble blood who unearthed a structure 35 metres long stalking, grouse shooting and fishing. Highlanders at the start of the 1715 was slain fighting a Danish invasion. and roughly c-shaped. Finds during the As these estates were not occupied by Jacobite rising. The rising come to an end The length of the grave mound appears excavation included several types of late the family throughout the year, many two months later with the defeat of Mar’s to confirm his reputation as a giant, but prehistoric pottery; a fragment of Roman were advertised in guide books as being hastily assembled army at the Battle of cynics believe that one of his henchmen pottery; an amber ring, the amber of available for rent by shooting parties. Sheriffmuir. Tradition has it that a gilt ball is buried at his feet. Local lore has it which probably originated in the Baltic; Many Highland estates still derive their on top of the flagstaff was dislodged by a that during Victorian times, the Laird of a pair of tweezers; a brooch or clasp; two income from a combination of shooting high wind and fell to the ground, seen by Dirnanean buried his horse at the spot copper alloy rings; and a fragment from and fishing with extensive sheep many as an ill omen and recorded in the as a garden amusement. a quern stone. The souterrain had been farming. Two estates crossed by or seen old verse “But when the standard was set broken into during the medieval and from the trail still advertise as shooting up, Sae fierce the wind did blaw, man, Victorian periods. estates: Brewlands, near Kirkton of Glen The golden nit, upon the tap, Down to Isla, and Glencally at the northern end the ground did fa’, man. The Hielandmen of Glen Isla. looked unca glam, They didna’ like’t at a’ man, And second-sichtet Sandy said, We’d do nae good at a’ man”. In more recent times, the Bannerfield has become the venue for the annual Strathardle Highland Gathering, now celebrating its 136th year. The Grave of Ardle, photo George Logan George photo of Ardle, The Grave Objects found at Shanzie Soutterain, Objects found Museum & Art Gallery Perth courtesy Photo Image, courtesy of Christopher Dingwall of Christopher Image, courtesy The Bannerfield, Kirkmichael, Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo 35 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Laing Photographic Collection The Silver Ball of Rattray The Upper Lunch Hut Trail Markers This archive of 15,000 images taken The silver ball of Rattray dates from the The Upper Lunch Hut on the Dirnanean The Cateran Trail is fully waymarked between 1927 and 1993 from D. Wilson early 1600s. It is a unique example of a Estate can be found high on the Cateran along its 64-mile (103-km) circular Laing Photographers, Blairgowrie, Scottish hand ball trophy. The game was Trail between Enochdhu in Strathardle route through the Perthshire and the was acquired by Perth Museum and played in a field behind the Old Parish and the Spittal of Glenshee. Queen Angus glens. The trail markers have Art Gallery in 1997, and includes the Kirk, and though the actual nature of Victoria stopped here in 1865 and a distinctive red heart on a white 11 original photographer’s ledgers the ball game is unclear, it was probably signed the visitor’s book. The royal background circled in green and a large together with prints and other objects. played with teams of six players, each progress was delayed when her party yellow arrow in a green circle. Most of the plates collected by the representing a village or parish. The realised that they had forgotten to pack museum are of places in East Perthshire winners were required to present a a kettle to make tea, and someone and were either commissioned by the small shield containing their initials was despatched to fetch one from the public or local businesses, or produced within six weeks of the game taking bottom of the hill. Today the notice on for the press. The photographers were place and the shield was attached to the door reads “Footpath walkers are also employed to document important the silver ball. The last known shield is welcome to take shelter”. national projects, such as the building dated 1766. The silver ball was almost of the Forth and Tay Road Bridges certainly donated by Sylvester Rattray and the construction of hydroelectric of Nether Persie who became minister schemes. The business finally closed of Rattray in 1591 and continued there on July 5, 1993 when David Constable until his death in 1623. Laing (David Mitchell Laing’s grandson) & Kinross Perth courtesy photo Marker, Trail Countryside Trust

and his wife Dorothy retired. The Upper Lunch Hut, photo George Logan Hut, George The Upper Lunch photo

The Silver Ball of Rattray, Museum & Art Gallery of Perth courtesy photo A basket of puppies, photo courtesy of the courtesy of puppies, photo A basket Collection Photographic Laing

37 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Whisky Tower Houses Pitcarmick Long Houses Pitcarmick Round Houses Small-scale whisky distilling was a Tower houses are a traditional The Cateran Trail has some great The Pitcarmick area has been farmed traditional part of Highland life. In type of late-medieval building, archaeological sites, and the rarest are for millennia. In the Bronze Age around farming communities, many turned intended primarily as dwellings, but the stone/turf and timber longhouses 2000 BC, people lived here in round to making whisky as it became harder constructed so that they could be of the early medieval period (late first houses, which are dwellings with low to survive as farmers, and there were made secure and defended in times of millennium AD), deemed important stone sides and low conical roofs made undoubtedly many illicit stills in the trouble. Consequently, they have few because rural early medieval buildings of thatched heather. Round house Cateran Trail region. These are difficult windows and doors close to their base, are rarely found elsewhere in Scotland. remains are often difficult to see, with to find as they were well hidden to and the principal rooms are at least one These sites were first identified in the the only evidence being slightly raised evade the excisemen. Making whisky storey above ground level. They are uplands of north-east Perthshire in circular mounds of earth. Summers involves first malting the barley by sometimes classified according to their the late 1980s, but only two sites in the Bronze Age were warmer, and soaking it in water and heating it under footprint, as L-plan or Z-plan. Some in have been excavated. The sites are at upland soils were more fertile, making specific conditions to create the mash, the glens, like Glasclune Castle (16th Pitcarmick in Strathardle, and at Lair it possible to grow early forms of which is put in a copper pot and boiled. century Z-plan) or Whitefield Castle in Glenshee, where Perth and Kinross barley and wheat. People bred cattle The vapour containing the alcohol is (16th century L-plan), have fallen into Heritage Trust have been excavating and sheep and supplemented their cooled in a coiled pipe, called a worm, ruin, whereas others, such as Bamff over the last five years. diets with wild berries. By the Pictish attached to the pot, and the whisky House (16th century), Blackcraig Castle era, buildings in this area were more is collected. (16th century) and Ashintully Castle rectangular in shape. (16th century), have been added to over the centuries and remain in use. Yet another example is Forter Castle (16th century L-plan) in Glen Isla, an impressive four-storey tower with a garret, which had fallen into ruin, but which was restored around 1990. Pitcarmick Roundhouse, Image courtesy of Image courtesy Roundhouse, Pitcarmick Countryside Trust & Kinross Perth Lair Pictish Longhouse Reconstruction Artwork by Reconstruction Pictish Longhouse Lair of PKHT & Gill McSwan, image courtesy Alan Braby Old Whisky Still, photo Bob Ellis Old Whisky Still, photo Forter Castle, photo Clare Cooper Clare Castle, photo Forter

39 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Reekie Linn Waterfall Barry Hill Fort Glenshee Kirk The Buzzart Dykes The Reekie Linn is one of Scotland’s Barry Hill near Alyth is crested by a Glenshee Kirk was built on the site of The Buzzart Dykes, a short distance most spectacular waterfalls and one small, strong vitrified Pictish fort, dated an old standing stone at the Spittal to the west of the Cateran Trail, were of the easiest to access. It is a pair of to the Roman period and defended from of Glenshee, though it was originally originally thought to be defensive linked falls on the River Isla at Bridge of the south by two sturdy rampart walls. planned to be built slightly further down earthworks associated with the Craigisla, about 4 miles north of Alyth. Still unexcavated, it is one of Scotland’s the glen at Runavey. It is a good example Roman occupation of the area in The waterfalls cascade though a natural best-preserved Iron Age forts, although of an old-fashioned parish church typical the first century AD. The dykes are wooded gorge, churning up the smoky its occupation probably spanned of the remoter parts of Scotland, bare now understood to be the remains (‘reekie’) spume that gives it its name. many periods. In addition to offering a and simple with the honest austerity of a medieval hunting park, possibly The two falls have drops of 6 metres defensive position against attacks, hill of its time. Services are still held at associated with nearby Glasclune and 18 metres, but when the River Isla forts had multiple functions, including the church, including a Christmas Day Castle. Hunting parks, often found in is in spate the falls merge to create a centres of political power, places where service and its scenic setting makes it a conjunction with high-status houses, single drop of 24 metres. Near the pool goods were produced, stored and popular wedding venue. were generally surrounded by a ditch at the base of the falls is a cave called traded through fairs and markets, and embankment topped with fence, Black Dub, which is not visible from the and as centres for religious rituals. known as the park pale. The Buzzart path. Local legend says that an outlaw Myths and legends often develop Dykes pale is clearly visible in aerial hid in the cave, but the devil appeared around such sites and Barry Hill is no photographs where is has not been in the shape of a huge black dog and exception with its links to the legend destroyed by ploughing or obscured frightened the outlaw so much that he of Vanora, the Scottish name for King by vegetation. gave himself up to the authorities. Arthur’s Queen Guinevere. Glenshee Kirk, photo Clare Cooper Glenshee Kirk, Clare photo Buzzart Dykes, photo © Crown Copyright HES Copyright © Crown photo Dykes, Buzzart Barry Hill Fort, Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo Rekkie Linn Waterfall, photo George Logan George photo Linn Waterfall, Rekkie

41 Landscapes A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Behind the tranquil landscape of Strathmore and the spectacular northern glens traversed by the Cateran Trail is a dramatic story, stretching back millions of years, which can be read in the rocks, landforms and natural and cultivated vegetation through which the trail passes, in the animals that live there, and in the complex web of interactions among these elements. The physical landscape has a profound effect on patterns of settlement, cultivation and transport. Here is the list of landscapes and plants, animals and objects relating to them that were chosen to be part of the final 100. Kirk at Kirkton of Glen Isla, photo Clare Cooper Clare of Glen Isla, photo Kirk at Kirkton

Kirkton of Glen Isla Kirkton of Glenisla is a village in Glen Isla, one of the most picturesque valleys in the Angus glens. Situated on the River Isla, 10 miles north of Blairgowrie it is the only settlement on the Cateran Trail in Angus and consists of a church and graveyard, a hotel which dates back to before 1750, and several holiday cottages. Photo Clare Cooper Clare Photo

43 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Bitter Vetch Blaeberries Blairgowrie Berries and There are many historical references Blaeberries, known as bilberries in Cherries Tartan to the use of bitter vetch, for England, are a summer treat from A tartan inspired by Perthshire’s berries flavouring, warding off hunger and the Cateran Trail. Loosely related to and cherries was created by Blairgowrie- thirst, preventing drunkenness and the commercial American blueberry, based master craftsman and weaver even stimulating the mind. There they are sweeter, more luscious and Ashleigh Slater of Warpweftweave Studio are references to the plant being turn your tongue red. Blaeberries are in 2015. Encouraged by Melanie Thomson an important part of the diet of the particularly rich in chemicals called of local fruit growers Thomas Thomson, Caterans and the tubers enabled them anthocyanins, which have been linked he registered the new tartan with the to ward off hunger and thirst for a long to the prevention of cancers and heart intent of using it to promote the town. time. In ‘Flora Celtica’ (2013), William disease. They also contain antioxidant, Milliken and Sam Bridgewater write antiviral, antibacterial and anti- “They have a sweet taste, something inflammatory compounds and are high like the roots of liquorice, and when in potassium, phosphates and a range boiled we are told, ‘are well flavour’d of vitamins. and nutritive, and in times of scarcity have serv’d as a substitute for bread’, J. Lightfoot, 1777, Flora Scotica”. Blaeberries, Photo, Wikimedia Commons Blaeberries, Photo, Bitter Vetch, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Vetch, Bitter

Blaigowrie Berries & Cherries Tartan, Cooper Clare photo

45 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Buzzards Dalradian Schist Red, Roe, and Fallow Deer Dirnanean Gardens The buzzard is the most common bird This is the main rock type found on the Red deer and roe deer are native to Dirnanean House is part of a private, of prey around the Cateran Trail. Its upland portion of the Cateran Trail and Scotland, and both species can often traditional Highland estate adjacent large size, with a wingspan of over is the oldest thing you will see on the be seen around the Cateran Trail. The to the Cateran Trail near Enochdhu. a metre, distinguishes it from other trail. It was laid down about 750 million majestic red deer is our largest terrestrial The estate’s garden area includes hawks. However, it is considerably years ago as sediment from an eroding mammal, and undoubtedly one of the one and a half hectares of garden smaller than an eagle, with which it is mountain chain on the margins of a most impressive wildlife spectacles of planting with seven hectares of often confused. The buzzard is a slow long lost continent. Millions of years Scotland, enjoyed by locals, tourists policy grounds. The garden features flier and is often seen circling lazily or later, due to earth movements that and Autumnwatch viewers alike. The a summer house, a walled garden, a sitting on trees and telegraph poles, peaked about 470 million years ago, delicate and secretive roe deer, with its burn walk with cascades, a traditional searching for its mostly ground-based the sediment was compressed and striking russet-brown coat and white estate kitchen garden with an orchard, prey of small mammals and insects, or metamorphosed to form a massive new rump, is found wherever there is cover a greenhouse and potager, and a small for carrion. Its distinctive ‘pee-ay’ call mountain chain. In turn, this mountain where it can hide by day. Groups of museum of garden tools that were resembles the mewing of a cat. range has been mostly eroded away darker-coloured fallow deer, introduced discovered during the refurbishment and the schist once hidden deep within to Scotland through deliberate releases of the garden and the grounds. The it is now exposed. The name ‘Dalradian’ and escapes from private parks, can refurbished summer house stands for this rock group comes from the sometimes be seen grazing in the fields on a turntable that allows the entire Celtic region of Dalriada. alongside domestic animals. structure to be turned as the sun moves across the front lawn. Peacocks and guinea fowl roam the grounds and a Wellingtonia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) specimen tree, thought to have been planted around 1870, borders the front lawn. The garden is accessible by the public for a small fee. Common Buzzard, photo wikimedia photo Common Buzzard, commons Schist, photo by Christopher Dingwall Schist, Christopher by photo Red Deer Stag, photo wikimedia commons photo Deer Stag, Red

in Dirnanean Gardens, Peone Cooper Clare photo

47 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Drove Roads Drumderg Wind Farm Drystane Dykes Because the upland soils are ill-suited and west converged on Kirkmichael Drumderg wind farm is situated on Drystane dykes, many of which to growing crops, cattle-rearing was a on their way south towards Dunkeld Drumderg hill on the site of a World War date back to Victorian times, are a vital part of the Highlander’s life and and the great cattle fairs at Crieff and II artillery firing range and close to the characteristic feature of the Cateran economy. Consequently, cattle drovers Falkirk. There was an annual cattle fair Cateran Trail. Wind power is Scotland’s Trail area. The different styles of dyke were regarded as important members at Kirkmichael in September, where, fastest growing renewable energy depend on the type of stone available, of the community. Hardy Highland during the evenings around the fire, the technology, and on Sunday August the purpose of the dyke, and the skill cattle were gathered from settlements drovers would tell stories linked to their 7, 2016, a combination of high wind of the dyker. Modern post-and-wire and farmsteads across the northern journeys, folk and fairy stories, cow and and low consumption resulted in wind fences have to be replaced regularly, glens and driven south along traditional horse tales, legends explaining ancient power generation (106%) exceeding whereas a well-built dyke can last for routes to markets, where they could features in the landscape, and stories of consumption in Scotland. Through the hundreds of years. The gaps between be fattened and sold for slaughter. place names spanning centuries. Many Drumderg Wind Farm Fund, owners the stones make dykes important Cattle from the North East of Scotland, of these stories are now forgotten or are SSE provide around £79,000 per year to wildlife habitats. Morayshire, Aberdeenshire, and Angus, only remembered by a handful of local community and charitable projects in passed through Alyth and Blairgowrie, people who recall living and working on the Mount Blair and Alyth areas, which whereas those from further north the land. are traversed by the Cateran Trail. Over the life of the fund they expect to invest £1.6 million in local projects. Dyke, Drystane Reed Argyles staneswinames.org Greig, Kevin Glen Isla by Windfarm, Drumderg Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth photo Old Drove Road Alyth, photo Clare Cooper Clare Alyth, photo Road Old Drove

49 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Fishing Red Foxes Garry Drums Since the time of Robert the Bruce, the The red fox is the most widespread and Between West Gormack and the Muir River Ericht has enjoyed abundant runs abundant land-dwelling carnivore in of Drumlochy, the Cateran trail crosses of salmon. Even though these were the world and it roams widely through a series of ridges and shallow valleys much reduced during the 19th century the Cateran Trail area. Its success running south-east from Middleton by the burgeoning textile mills along partly comes from its ability to survive Muir, an area known as Garry Drums. its banks, it is still possible to fish for on a wide range of food and live in a Although you might expect to find a salmon at several locations today and huge variety of habitats. Intelligent, series of streams in the valleys, some its upper waters provide good trout inquisitive and charismatic the fox of them are dry. These dry valleys are fishing as well, as do the River Ardle, could be everybody’s favourite animal, understood by geologists to be glacial Blackwater, River Isla, and Shee Water. were it not for its taste for lambs, meltwater channels that formed near chickens and game birds. the end of the last Ice Age when water running off the hills to the north created streams along the edge of a large mass of stagnant ice that filled Strathmore. However, the streams ran dry as the ice disappeared. Photo, courtesy of the Laing Photographic Photographic of the Laing courtesy Photo, Collection Red Fox, photo wikimedia commons photo Fox, Red

Garry Drums, photo © Crown Copyright HES Copyright © Crown Garry Drums, photo 51 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Glen Beag Gorse Heather Highland Cattle Looking down from Ben Earb and Meall Along the Cateran Trail in May and Heather is perhaps as much a botanical Highland cattle (Scottish Gaelic, Uaine to the Spittal of Glenshee is June, there is a striking display of symbol of Scotland as the famous ‘bò ghàidhealach’; Scots, ‘heilan coo’) Glen Beag (‘small valley’), which joins bright yellow gorse (Ulex europaeus), thistle and there is no shortage of it are a native Scottish cattle breed. Glenshee from the north. In the Ice sometimes known as whin or furze. around the Cateran Trail. Over the A common sight around the Cateran Age, Scotland’s landscape was filled Gorse is generally regarded as a weed centuries, heather has been used in Trail, their long horns and long wavy with glaciers. When these glaciers that readily colonises uncultivated all sorts of practical ways, including coats can be black, brindle, red, yellow, disappeared about 20,000 years ago, ground, so is often seen on roadsides for thatching, as a yellow dye, and for white, or silver, and they are raised they carved out the classic U-shaped and where ground has been disturbed. making brooms and rope. Heather was primarily for their meat. They originated valleys, flanked by rocky spurs and Its spiky leaves and dense habit mean used to treat coughs, consumption, in the Highlands and Western Isles of slopes of scree, with mounds and that it was sometimes used as a arthritis, and rheumatism and to soothe Scotland and were first mentioned in terraces of sand and gravel deposited hedging plant, and could even be fed to the nerves. Moorland tea made from the 6th century AD, although the breed by the ice as it melted or washed livestock if bruised beforehand. Gorse is heather flowers was reputed to be has since been exported worldwide. along the valley sides by meltwater a valuable plant for wildlife, providing a favourite of Robert Burns, and the Highland cattle are hardy due to their streams. Glen Beag is a reminder of how dense thorny cover ideal for nesting soporific aroma from the dried flowers native environment, and their meat, dramatic the effects of climate change birds. The leaf buds have been used as was put to use in heather mattresses. regarded as the highest quality, is can be. a substitute for tea, and the flowers, Some claim that Scottish heather honey gaining mainstream recognition as it which have a distinctive coconut scent, is as good for healing as manuka honey. is lower in cholesterol than beef from yield a beautiful yellow dye. There is an other breeds. old saying that “when gorse is out of blossom, kissing is out of fashion’”. Glen Beag, photo © Perth & Kinross Heritage Trust Heritage & Kinross © Perth Glen Beag, photo Heather alongside the Military Road in Glenshee, Road Heather alongside the Military Cooper Clare photo

Highland Cow just outside Alyth, Cooper Clare photo Trail, along the Cateran Gorse Dingwal Christopher by photo

53 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Lichens Mount Blair Native Scottish Trees Pine Martens Along the Cateran trail, many of the Mount Blair, which is 744 metres high The native Scottish trees that can be This elusive, mostly nocturnal trunks and branches of older trees and located between Glenshee and seen around the Cateran Trail include protected animal is found in most of beside the paths are heavily encrusted Glen Isla, is a dominant feature on the birch, which were among the earliest the larger areas of mature woodland with lichens. It is a misconception Cateran Trail. On its slopes, there are trees to colonise Scotland after the end around the Cateran Trail. Pine martens that lichens are parasitic and that prehistoric sites, famous wells and a of the last Ice Age; the venerated oak; are agile tree climbers and formidable they weaken the tree, or, like fungi, suicide grave under the summit cairn. willow, which thrives close to water and hunters, and, although they are indicate the tree’s poor health. Rather, There are legends associated with was prized for its medicinal properties omnivores, their diet includes voles the majority of lichens only use trees Mount Blair, telling the story of Colly and its use in house building, coracle and other small mammals. It remains for support and are the product of a Camb who was a giant who lived in frames, and charcoal manufacture; to be seen how the major tree felling symbiotic relationship between algae a cave on the south slope of Mount rowan, with its beautiful autumnal operations currently taking place and fungi, in which one provides Blair. Colly’s wife was the giantess display of red berries; and Scots pine, in the local forests will affect their nutrients for the other, assisted by Smoutachanty, and her cave was the only native pine in the UK. distribution. rainwater and minerals from the further up the Isla at Auchintaple. surrounding environment. Lichens People believed that Colly would fly come in a variety of shapes, generally into rages and pick up large rocks and described as foliose (leaf-like), fruticose throw them at the people and dwellings (with branching stems), or crustose in the glen below. Two of these rocks (flaky incrustation). Most lichens are are the Gled Stane and Sow Stane. sensitive to pollution, so are much rarer Colly was finally stoned to death by a band of locals for repeatedly stealing in urban areas and beside busy roads. from their corn mill. Nobody went The abundance of lichens in the glens is near the cave for years, and then two a result of the clean air of the Highlands. brave men ventured in to explore it.

A while later their voices were heard wikimedia commons Pine Martin, photo Scotch Pines, photo Clare Cooper Clare Pines, photo Scotch from underground near the Alrick Burn almost two miles away, but the men were never seen again. Bleaton, Lichen at Easter Crest Red Cooper Clare photo Mount Blair, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Mount Blair, 55 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Red Squirrels Scottish Blackface Sheep Shielings Sphagnum Moss The native red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) The Scottish Blackface sheep is the Until the end of the of the 19th century, Sphagnum moss can hold large is rare in the Lowlands of Scotland, commonest sheep in the glens and most Highlanders depended on a amounts of water and is an essential having been driven out by the American uplands of Highland Perthshire, subsistence economy based on growing part of peat bogs. A surface layer of grey squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis). so it can be regarded as part of the grain crops, such as wheat and barley, live sphagnum seals in dead plant However, red squirrels are commonly landscape. The species is thought to on unenclosed fields in the glens, and matter beneath, and in this low-oxygen seen in around the Cateran Trail, have originated in the Scottish Borders on the grazing of sheep and cattle on environment, plant matter turns to especially where there is mixed where it was bred by monks in medieval the surrounding hills. During the spring peat. Under favourable conditions, coniferous and broadleaved woodland, times, being prized for both its fleece and summer, the grazing animals were the peat deposit, with its surface layer which provides the hazelnuts, acorns and meat. Though smaller than some moved to high ground to keep them of living sphagnum, can grow to form and pine nuts preferred by the species. other sheep breeds, the Scottish away from the growing crops and to hummocks and raised bogs, such as Blackface is noted for its hardiness, graze the fresh growth on the upland Dun Moss on the Muir of Alyth. The enabling it to survive and thrive on pastures. These upland pastures were absorbent, antibacterial properties poor upland grazing. Together with the known as ‘airidhs’, where those tending of the moss meant that it was used Cheviot, another sturdy Borders breed the flocks would build simple huts in enormous quantities as a wound with which it is sometimes crossed, the called ‘shielings’. The remains of these dressing in World Wars I and II in the Scottish Blackface played a major part shelters can still be found on the high trenches and field hospitals. in the Highland Clearances of the 18th ground around the Cateran Trail. and 19th centuries. Red Squirrel, photo wikimedia commons photo Squirrel, Red Sphagnum Moss, Photo Wikimedia Commons Sphagnum Moss, Photo A Shieling in the Glens, staneswinames.org Greig, Kevin by photo Scottish Blackfaced Sheep, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Sheep, Blackfaced Scottish

57 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

Standing Stones Amongst the more mysterious features of the landscape of the Cateran Trail landscape are standing stones, which are monolithic blocks that are often located in the middle of fields or by the roadside. We know little about their history or purpose, whether they were erected as boundary markers or as objects with ritual significance. Some have had stories woven around them, whereas others, such as that at Balnabroich in Strathardle, serve as useful scratching posts for cattle. Examples of some of the larger stones around the trail include the Pitcrocknie Stone at Glen Isla Golf Course, Alyth,

and the Park Neuk Stone Circle at Collection Photographic Laing Harvest, courtesy photo Potato Tullymurdoch. Tattie Creel Potatoes were first introduced to first wage and experience of paid work. Scotland in 1739, and since then, they The money was an important part of have been an important cash crop for household income, paying for essential generations of farmers in Strathmore’s items, such as boots and coats, or fertile soils close to the Cateran Trail. even Christmas celebrations. Tattie ‘Tattie howking’ (‘potato digging’) was creels, the baskets used to collect the the name given to the annual potato potatoes, were traditionally made from harvest. Up to the middle of the 20th willow, hazel, or split steamed oak, until century, the school half-term in October these were replaced by metal or plastic was called the ‘Tattie Holiday’, when containers in the 20th century. The schoolchildren took part in the harvest. creels were treated roughly and did not As well as being an institutional last, but they were made everywhere, custom, these holidays were also a rite often by travelling folk who also took of passage for many children across part in the potato harvest. Scotland, providing them with their

Park Neuk Stone Circle, photo Ron McGill Ron photo Circle, Neuk Stone Park 59 A Story of the Cateran Trail in 100 Objects

The Highland Boundary Fault Tormentil Wild Raspberries Wolves The Highland Boundary Fault is a major Tormentil (Potentilla erecta), a plant with Scottish wild red raspberry (Rubus Wolves used to be ubiquitous in geological feature that divides the characteristic yellow flowers, thrives on idaeus) can be found in many of the Scotland. David Ogilvy and Margaret Scottish Lowlands from the Highlands. upland heaths and is found throughout hedgerows and rocky woods along the Campbell, the tenants of Freuchies by The fault line is where the rocks of the the Cateran trail area. Its root has been trail. A slender shrub with unbranched, Kirkton of Isla, where the lands were Highlands collided with those of the used boiled in milk as a medicine, as arching stems growing to about 6-foot held by the Abbey of Coupar Angus, Lowlands millions of years ago to create a dye, for tanning leather, and as an high, it is usually the first soft fruit to were required in 1552 to “...nwrice Scotland. It runs from the south-west to emergency food in times of famine. ripen. According to folklore, raspberry ane leiche of gud howndis, with ane the north-east right across the country, leaf tea relieves the discomforts of cuppill of rachis, for tod and wolf, passing just north of Blairgowrie and pregnancy and the juice of the berries and be reddy at all tymes quhene we Alyth, separating the softer rocks was drunk for its cooling effect. cherge thame to pas with ws or our underlying the fertile Vale of Strathmore bailzeis to the hountis”, that is “…to to the south from the harder rocks of have ready at all times a pack of hounds the foothills of the Grampian Mountains and a couple of sleuth-hounds for the and the Cairngorms to the north. This hunting of wolves and foxes”. Stories of fault, which is crossed by the Cateran the killing of the last wolf of Scotland Trail in several places, was also a vary. Although wolves had disappeared cultural boundary, influencing patterns from the Lowlands by the 15th century, of settlement and land use, and dividing most records tell of the last Scottish the English-speaking Lowlands from the wikimedia commons photo Tormentil, wolf being killed by Sir Ewen Cameron Gaelic-speaking Highlands. at Killiecrankie in Perthshire in 1680. However, it has been claimed that wolves survived in Scotland up until the 18th century, and there is even a tale of one being seen as late as 1888.

Wild Raspeberries, photo Clare Cooper Clare photo Wild Raspeberries, Grey Wolf, photo wikimedia commons photo Wolf, Grey Photo, courtesy of Christopher Dingwall of Christopher courtesy Photo, 61 Acknowledgements As well as being extraordinarily rich in history, archaeology and cultural and natural heritage, the Cateran Trail has a thriving and diverse community of living artists and makers. We are especially grateful to the ᶠollowing members of that community for generously sharing their creativity and imagination through this exhibition: Kevin Greig, illustrator and historian, Glen Isla, www.staneswinames.org Andrew Hunter, graphic designer and artist, Kirkmichael, www.silverhunter.co.uk Martin McGuinness, fine artist and painter, Alyth, www.martinmcguinness.co.uk Ashleigh Slater, master weaver, Blairgowrie, www.warpweftweavestudio.co.uk Jane Wilkinson, willow weaver, Alyth, www.specialbranchbaskets.com Many of the objects in the display have been made available from the collection of Perth Museum & Art Gallery, Perth & Kinross Council, for which we are extremely grateful. The following objects have been kindly loaned: ‘Springtime’ by Jane Spindler, courtesy of Dundee City Council, (Dundee Art Galleries and Museums); Jane Spindler’s name plate, courtesy of Linda Cullis; the Mauchline ware box, courtesy of Ian Smith; the Lair spindle-whorl, courtesy of Perth & Kinross Heritage Trust; the piece of Dalradian schist, courtesy of Christopher Dingwall; the Blairgowrie Berries and Cherries Tartan, courtesy of Ashleigh Slater; and the painting of Kirkmichael Church, courtesy of Andrew Hunter. Booklet Text: The descriptive text for the 100 objects has been drawn from entries made by the many contributors via the project website, www.cateranstory.org.uk. The project organisers are happy to receive any amendments or suggested additions, which may be incorporated into future materials. Booklet Photographs and Images: credits/sources appear with each entry, all Wikimedia images have creative commons attribution, all Perth & Kinross Heritage Trust and HES photos are copyright. Booklet Design: Andrew Hunter. Advisory Panel Members: Bob Ellis (Chair), Anthea Deane, Christopher Dingwall, John Manning, Peter Morris and Ian Richards. With thanks to the staff at Culture Perth & Kinross for their support and assistance in curating and designing the exhibition. Funders and Supporters The launch phase of the Cateran’s Common Wealth programme has been financially supported by Creative Scotland, the Drumderg Windfarm Fund, the Gannochy Trust, the Heritage Lottery Fund, Perth & Kinross Council, Scotmid, the Postcode Lottery Fund, the St. James Place Foundation, Vanora’s Cottages and the citizens of Alyth.

The 2017 Cateran’s Common Wealth programme has been enabled by North East of North (NEoN) and the Perth & Kinross Countryside Trust

A Cateran’s Common Wealth publication 2017 www.commonculture.org.uk Except where otherwise noted, this work is licensed under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ Photos, courtesy of the Laing Photographic Collection Photographic of the Laing courtesy Photos, Barry Hill Fort photo © Perth & Kinross Heritage Trust