ESCAPE / The Maldives FAR OUT! Asia’s smallest country has found the perfect balance between modern life and island traditions

WORDS DIANE SELKIRK

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Flying in over low, palm-fringed The word for this ring in Buddhist seafarers were lured Dhivehi, the Maldivian national from and Sri Lanka to settle islands, it’s impossible to imagine language, is atholhu, or atoll. In the on these islands in the 5th century that the Maldives was once Maldives, 26 atolls, comprising BC. Islamic Middle Eastern Clockwise over a thousand islands, are traders followed, attracted by the from top: Malé is a soaring mountain range. spread over 90,000sqkm of sea. abundance of cowry shells that delightfully walkable, What little bits of land there are were used as currency at the time. with each narrow road hiding It was created when the India a treasure; view of the atolls make up the world’s most low- The country converted to Islam in from a seaplane; rich in , plate passed over a hotspot known lying country, where the highest 1153, after a Moroccan scholar Maldivian has its roots in as the Reunion mantle plume, point on an island is often the was said to have chased away a Indian and Sri Lankan ; neighbourhood mosque minaret. sea monster simply by reading wait for the Manta-On-Call which produced a more than alert to see these creatures Only on the capital of Malé, with from the Quran, astounding at Four Seasons Landaa 2,000km-long span of volcanoes buildings that seem to spring the king. Giraavaru straight from the waters, is It was also the sea that called the Laccadives-Chagos anything taller than a palm tree. attracted the first tourists to the Ridge. Over the millennia, the Everywhere else, only one thing Maldives. In the 1970s, divers and dominates the view: the sea. surfers flocked to the country’s volcanoes collapsed, each leaving Shimmering in endless shades lush reefs and exhilarating surf a ring of small, perfect islands. of blue, the ocean was the reason breaks. Stories spread of a land with spectacular surf points, huge gatherings of manta rays and more than a dozen species of whales and dolphins. As tourism grew, the first Robinson Crusoe- style lodgings were gradually replaced by luxury resorts. Maldivian islands are small, each housing at most a village or a single resort, making a vacation here feel very exclusive. Though the country attracts a large number of visitors – an estimated 1.4 million tourists in 2015 – there are no crowds on most islands. You can claim long stretches of powder-fine white beach as your own anytime, snorkel in a private reef outside your bungalow and dine in

intimate settings. IMAGES GETTY IMAGES; MALDIVES; AWL RESORTS FOUR SEASONS

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MALÉ GROOVE Part of what makes the Maldives so fascinating is how little most people know about the country of approximately 393,300 people. The perception is of a sun-kissed Indian Ocean beach Clockwise vacation paradise. Yet, Malé – an from top: Be entire modern city squeezed into lulled by the Big Blue 5.8sqkm – is just the place to get from The Sun Siyam a feel of the colour and contrast Iru Fushi’s AquaRetreat terrace; enjoy a grill fresh that make up the Maldives. from the sea; view the The city is served by underwater world from passenger ferry from the airport a glass-bottom island of Hulhulé. As you step off kayak the boat, it can take a moment to make sense of the hive of block and the wooden panels activity. Scooters speed down the inscribed with Arabic prayers GOING narrow streets, while pedestrians when you venture inside. palms are the national weave their way past stately More coral carving is found on tree of the Republic of Maldives official buildings and tumbledown the tombstones of heroes, sultans and both the trees and nuts markets plastered with political and nobles in the mosque’s have a variety of uses. Coir, signs. Almost instantly, you’ll cemetery. Medhu Ziyaarai, or rope, is made from the feel that modern life and island the shrine for Abul al Barakat, husks; thatching is made from tradition have found a balance the scholar responsible for fronds; the flowers are used for here. Despite being the largest converting the country to Islam, decorations while the nectar is (and only) city in the Maldives, is just across the road. extracted as a sweetener. Five Malé is delightfully walkable and species of coconuts are grown each narrow road holds a treasure BUY, BUY in the Maldives and the coconut just waiting to be uncovered. Luxury goods exist alongside itself has 12 different names in more traditional wares in Malé. Dhivehi, depending on its stage TOUCH OF HISTORY For local brand names, check of growth. Set in the lush Sultan’s Park, out Reefside and Evince for Coconuts can also be used to the National Museum holds a watches and sunglasses, Le Cute sway the vote, it seems. A kihah collection of ancient Qurans for perfume and cosmetics and (young coconut) was suspected and costumes worn by the old Sonee Sports for beach and of being infused with black sultans. Meanwhile, the 15th- athletic brands. magic and accused of vote- century Hukuru Miskiy or Old The waterfront fish market, rigging in the 2013 presidential Friday Mosque is a spectacular with huge yellowfin destined election. The kihah was later example of ancient coral stone for restaurants and resorts, found innocent and released. construction. Look for the is a must for visitors. Even if

THE SUN SIYAM IRU FUSHI; GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGES; IRU FUSHI; GETTY THE SUN SIYAM exquisite carvings on the coral you’re not in the market for fish,

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In contrast to Malé’s busy pace, atoll life is pared-down living consisting of swaying palms, white sand beaches and iridescent blue lagoons

the colourful fishing boats are delightfully eye-catching. In the local craft shops, you’ll find BEFORE YOU GO... lacquerwork from Thulhaadhoo l While beachwear is perfect for island, colourful locally made resorts, you’ll need to pack more sarongs called feylis and modest wear for village visits woven thundukunaa mats from and trips to Malé. For women, Gadhdhoo island. The touts will knees and shoulders should be direct you to streetfront souvenir covered, while men should wear shops, but hold out for Najah Art shirts with sleeves. Palace and Souvenirs (above the shops on Chandani Magu) and The l Alcohol is served only in the Craft Shop (on the waterfront) for resorts. You can’t bring it in and the best selection. you cannot find it in Malé or in the villages. FLAVOUR OF MALDIVES Malé is a great place to dig into l Tipping isn’t required, a authentic Maldivian cuisine, balcony at the Seagull Café is that includes traditional best chance to spot whale sharks and family-friendly resorts make Clockwise 10 per cent service charge which has strong influences from where you can enjoy a plate of Maldivian mashuni (a spicy mix of and manta rays. Ari (or Alufu) Atoll a great family from top left: is automatically added Chilling out on a India and Sri Lanka and features short eats (savoury pastries) coconut, tuna and leaves) destination. Kids love boarding to everything. hammock is the spicy, seafood-based , a as you people-watch, while the and roshi, a warm flatbread. Action packed traditional boats called dhonis and order of the day smoky tuna soup called garudiya SeaHouse Café dishes up a While the Maldives are renowned heading out to try and spot the in the Maldives; l Outside the resorts, you and tasty coconut sambals. The fantastic Maldivian OUT ON THE ATOLLS for being relaxing, if you’re looking resident dolphins and other marine resorts like The won’t find bacon (or any other Sun Siyam Iru Glide with mantas and for an adrenaline rush, head to life. Ari’s vibrant and protected pork product); these are haram Fushi have rooms whale sharks North Malé (not to be confused reefs are also a great place for that bring the (forbidden) in Islam. In contrast to Malé’s busy pace, with the capital city). This is where older kids to learn to dive and ocean right to atoll life is pared-down living the surfing scene first took off. younger ones to try an introductory you; ride with l When choosing a resort, keep dolphins, hit the consisting of swaying palms, Companies such as Surfatoll offer Bubblemaker dive class or learn in mind that they tend to be surf and learn white sand beaches and iridescent multi-day excursions for experts to snorkel. Many resorts also have about marine life spread out across the atolls, blue lagoons. In Baa Atoll, you and beginners alike. Those who excellent kids clubs and activities at Four Seasons each occupying an entire island. can add spectacular diving to the prefer underwater thrills can like movies on the beach and Kuda Huraa This means all your and list. Designated a UNESCO World check out the Maldives Victory private island barbecues. excursions will be planned by the Biosphere Reserve, Baa Atoll Wreck, which boasts an abundance Your resort can also arrange resort, so comb the offerings attracts divers from all over the of fish and coral. Sunset fishing a half-day excursion to Dhigurah and prices carefully to find the world to its clear warm waters trips are also a big draw in the village where you can see best match. and abundant reefs. On every area – your resort can arrange a traditional wooden boats being dive, you’re certain to encounter beachside barbecue so you can built and watch local women make l Beyond resorts, other a range of fish, rays, sharks and enjoy your catch for dinner. palm coir (rope) and roofing thatch, lodging options include village even turtles while swimming all while sipping a fresh coconut. guesthouses, surf camps and through vibrant coral. Be sure to Happy family live-aboard dive boats. take a snorkelling excursion to the Beaches with perfect sand for SilkAir flies four times weekly

remarkable Hanifaru Bay for the IMAGES IRU FUSHI; GETTY THE SUN SIYAM MALDIVES; RESORTS FORU SEASONS sandcastles, silky warm water between Singapore and Malé

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