INTERNATIONAL RESEARCH JOURNAL OF COMMERCE, ARTS AND SCIENCE ISSN 2319 – 9202

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202

SILK WEAVING INDUSTRY AND THE ROLE OF WOMEN IN THE VILLAGES OF KANCHEEPURAM

K. Apple Rajan PhD Assistant Professor, Presidency College, Chennai [email protected] ABSTRACT

This research paper intends to examine the weaving industry and the role of women in the Villages of Kancheepuram District. The study investigates the industry, the traditional handloom sector and the role of women in silk weaving industries. The paper also briefs about the conditions and problems faced by women weavers in . The observations in Government policies and awards obtained by women artisans and weavers are also described in this research paper. Finally the paper is concluded with suggestions to overcome the issues faced by women weavers of the chosen study area.

Keywords: Handloom weavers, women weavers, silk industry, Kancheepuram

1. Introduction

Handloom sector has an important role to play within the Indian economy. It is one among the biggest economic activities providing direct employment to the individuals engaged in weaving and associated activities. Handloom sector contributes nearly 19% of the entire textile produced within the country and additionally adds considerably to export earnings. As a result of effective Government intervention through monetary help and implementation of varied organic process and welfare schemes, this sector has been ready to face up to competition from the power loom and mill sectors. However, loom business faces a variety of issues and challenges, and these are adversely moving its continuing sustainability and growth.

Kancheepuram, popularly known as city of thousand temples was the historical capital of the Pallavas from sixth to seventh century AD and later came under the control of Cholas, Vijayanagar Kings, the Muslim and then the British. Throughout the sixth and seventh centuries, a number of temples within the town were constructed by the Pallavas. Kancheepuram is addressed as textile town and the place is known for both machine woven and handloom sarees. The silk sarees produced here are far-famed across the world. Kancheepuram city is additionally called Silk city since the main occupation of the people living in and around is weaving silk sarees. Nearly five thousand families living in Kancheepuram are engaged in this business. The silk weavers of Kancheepuram settled quite four hundred years ago and have given it a desirable name as the manufacturer of the best silk sarees in India. The silk sarees are woven

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 from pure mulberry silk and have high quality of texture, durability and finish. The sarees in their incredible colors are available in desired variety and design.

2. Title justification

The topic chosen for the study is "Silk Weaving Industry and the Role of Women in the Villages of Kancheepuram". The region of Kancheepuram has gained a name in the market all over India for the silk weaving handloom industry, and Kancheepuram silk has turned into a household name for its quality silk across South India. Since ancient times, Indian Women are considered as a source of intensity. It was the main apportioning system in 1943 that the middle class women ventured out in masses to work as women doctors, teachers and nurses. In the twentieth century women have recovered weaving as a workmanship. According to 2013 census taken in handloom industry, there are over 38 million women weavers in India. Most women are proficient and education is one of the inspirations for these women to take on independent choices including accepting weaving as a profession. Women likewise contribute in keeping alive the cottage enterprises that expand work and furthermore guarantee advancement of society. Concerning the zone of study which is Villages of Kancheepuram, it was identified that the relationship among women and silk industry in the district is age old. Consequently, this topic has been decided to comprehensively analyze the nature and survival of the silk weaving industry and the role of women in the villages of Kancheepuram.

Source: https://www.nalli.com/cream-Kancheepuram-silk-saree-es0032284

3. Background Of The Study

India ranks second among the producers of silk in the world and holds unique place in delivering the all four varieties of silk, to be specific, Tasar, Muga, Eri and mulberry. The silk industry can

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 be found in boundlessly differing regions, for example, Subtropical (Uttar Pradesh, Jammu, Himachal Pradesh and North-Eastern Region), Temperate (Kashmir), and Tropical (, , Andhra Pradesh, Orissa, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu). Mulberry silk represents about 90% of the absolute generation in the nation (Geetha & Indira, 2011)1.

Kancheepuram District has been selected as the study area as the District has an exceptionally developed silk weaving handloom industry. The new District of Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu was established in 1997 containing three main revenue generating divisions, 1214 revenue villages and 8 Taluks. The Kancheepuram District plays an important role in consumption and manufacturing of pure silk textures; it has likewise the most astounding number of silk weavers, through primary cooperative societies’ pure silk handloom weavers, main weavers and number of sales warehouses. In spite of the fact that different varieties of cotton textures are created in the Kancheepuram District, this investigation is limited uniquely to the pure silk weaving industry and the role of women in silk weaving.

4. History of the Industry

According to history, Kancheepuram gained its prominence during Krishna Deva Raya's governance, when two weaving groups - the Saligars and the Devangas, who transmigrated to Kancheepuram from Andhra Pradesh principally on the grounds that inside this apparently little town there were in excess of 129 finely built temples. And silk was constantly viewed as the traditional wear at religious customs and weddings. The weavers of Devanga and Saligar were presumed for their weaving silks. Kancheepuram Sarees or the Kanchivaram Sarees is among the most superior silks in the world. Much obliged to its twofold twist and twofold weft. Other than which, the gold in the designs is included by dunking the strings of silk into liquid form of gold and silver. This augments the value and the beauty of the silk.

5. Silk Industry

Silk is a ceaseless protein filament secreted by silkworms, a specific kind of insect. Developed worms hurl their heads to expel a semi fluid blend of protein, covered with a sticky substance called Sericin from spinneret. The fluid silk in this way catapulted at the pace of about a foot per minute; moves toward becoming when open to air, the fiber the worms use to create the remarkable silk. Silk comprises about 3% of the textile trade in the world. Over 30 nations produce silk, and India's share in worldwide raw silk generation is about 17.5% behind China, which is at 79.10%.

Banaras is one of the main silk weaving regions in India. Amru silk, Navarangi, Jamvar and are some kinds of Banaras . Maharashtra is renowned for its Silk sarees,

1 Geetha& Indira, (2011) Silkworm Rearing by Rural Women in KarnatakaA Path to Empowerment, Indian Journal of Gender Studies 18(1):89-102

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 for the most part with gold spots structure and Kosa silk of Bhandara area. Patola silk, known as the pride of Gujarat is noted for their splendid hues and geometric plans with folk themes. Madhya Pradesh is well known for Maheshwari, Chanderi and Tussar silk sarees. Silk Bomkai Sambalpuri sarees from Orissa come in single and twofold Ikat weaves. Murshidabad in West Bengal is the home of the well-known Baluchari in which untwisted silk strings are utilized for weaving brocades. In the south, overwhelming silk sarees from Kumbakonam, Tanjore and Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu are known for their expansive contrasting colors and embellishing borders. Kancheepuram silks have a fortunate position among the best silk sarees in the nation for their surface, radiance, sturdiness and completion. Kolegal and Molkalmoru in Karnataka are known for their simple Ikat weave with parrot theme on the borders2.

6. Review Of Literature

PushpaGowri (2018)3 mentioned that Kancheepuram silk sarees are the pride of South India from prehistoric times. Marriages in South India are incomplete without a Kancheepuram saree for brides. Kancheepuram sarees are likewise called as Kanjivaram and Kanchi sarees. Pure Kanchi sarees are created uniquely in Kancheepuram. Kancheepuram has a standing that goes back to hundreds of years as a silk weaving region. Administration of Tamil Nadu has given Geographical Identification for these sarees, which has given the worldwide centrality for these products. In this manner Kancheepuram is suitably called as 'Silk Paradise of South India'. Individuals from various parts of the nation come to Kancheepuram to buy pure Kanchi sarees. The climatic condition is an advantage to this place to produce these sarees. This paper illuminates the historical backdrop of Kancheepuram sarees, its development, modernization, change, rivalry, supportability, difficulties and issues looked by this industry.

XinCai (2015)4 analyzed the orderly administration method of the state-run silk-weaving industry during the Song dynasty of China. The conspicuous orderly characteristics can be depicted as dispersion, division and activity. The state-run silk-weaving industry is broadly dispersed in the capital city and the zones where and silk weaving are as of now profoundly created. It is plainly partitioned into weaving, coloring, embroidering, clothing delivering and silk articles fabricating. The state-run silk-weaving industry had the benefit to utilize profoundly able specialists. The managers, assigned by the legislature, controlled the assembling procedure and the quality and amount of the items. The investigation demonstrates

2 Kalaiyarasi (2014) An Empirical Study Of The Preferences And Buying Behavior Of Silk Sarees Among Women Consumers In Vellore Town, International Journal of Business and Administration Research Review, Vol.1, Issue.5, P.12-20. 3 D. PushpaGowri (2018) “An Over View On The Growth Of Kancheepuram Silk Industry” ISBR Management Journal, Volume 3, Issue 2, November 27, 2018 ISSN (Online)2456 - 9062 4 XinCai (2015) Systematic Management Mode of the State-Run Silk-Weaving Industry of the Song Dynasty Asian Social Science 11(9) · April 2015

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 that, based on thousands of years amassing, the state-run silk-weaving industry of the Song dynasty exhibited the entire development in old China.

Tasneem Shazli (2014)5 expressed that manufacturing industries help to decrease unemployment and poverty in various ways. The economy of a nation is seen as a result of contribution of workforce and industrial growth. Previously, women were not treated as an indispensable part of the work force; they entered the labor market after the presentation of machines. They were to a great extent utilized in those manufacturing businesses which required less and semi-skilled women workers. The research depends on the financial conditions, derived from essential information gathered through questionnaire. Results demonstrate that weaving is the real control of Mubarakpur town, as there is high centralization of handlooms. The real reasons which constrained women to do work in handlooms are monetary need, poverty, unemployment, low salary, low proficiency and education and huge family size.

Aarti kawlra (2013)6 determined that Geographical Indication (GI) given to Kancheepuram sarees has made the familiarity with the brand among the clients to distinguish and separate it from other kinds of sarees in the paper “Kanchipuram Sari as Heritage: Artisanship and the Politics of Culture and Technology”. The author has referenced that Kancheepuram sarees are likewise utilized in making appropriate costumes for traditional dancers.

Jyoti Bhasin (2009)7 "South India heritage: Kancheepuram Sarees of Tamil Nadu". The author in this investigation has verified that, the rich weave and feel of Kancheepuram Sarees embrace women weavers in their wave for as long as 150 years. These sarees with a colossal incitement of the skilled workers signify the heritage of South India.

7. Statement Of The Problem

In the most recent decade of the twentieth century a number of handloom weavers killed themselves because of destitution and pitiable condition of living. Various factors added to this miserable dilemma. Immense load of unsold completed items and exceptionally poor deals because of individuals' decision of the power loom products drove the handloom weavers to take their lives. With the expectation of driving some assistance, different social associations and ideological groups began working on its development. Understanding the horrid existence of the handloom weavers, all through the state mindfulness was made and women and men began purchasing handloom products at the initiation of the Government and voluntary associations. 60% of the handloom weavers are women. Numerous endeavors have been made to consider the

5 TasneemShazli(2014)Female Work Participation in Handloom Industry-A Case Study of Mubarakpur Town, Azamgarh District, U.P Journal of Education & Social Policy Vol. 1 No. 1; June 2014 6 Aartikawlra (2013)Kancheepuram Sari as Heritage: Artisanship and the Politics of Culture and Technology 7 Bhasin, J. (2009). Heritage-Kanchipuram Saris, Tamil Nadu, Indian Woman Sarees Collection, Kanjeevaram Saree, Fibre2fashion. [online] Fibre2fashion.com. Available at: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry- article/4279/south-india-heritage-kanchipuram-saris-of-tamil-nadu [Accessed 9 Sep. 2019]. International Research Journal of Commerce Arts and Science http://www.casirj.com Page 47

CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 poor living states of the individuals in the handloom segment as a rule. In the view of researcher’s knowledge, there are no efforts made to analyze the empowerment of women handloom weavers, especially, silk industry of Kancheepuram. Strengthening of women handloom weavers will fill the gap that exists at present in understanding their socio-economic empowerment. In-depth study on women empowerment in handloom division will give knowledge in understanding their issues and prospects in a more extensive point of view and will be helpful to the policy makers.

8. Objectives Of The Study  To study the growth of Silk weaving industry in Kancheepuram  To understand the role of women weavers in silk industry of Kancheepuram  To identify the problems faced by women weavers in Kancheepuram Villages  To provide suggestions for betterment of women weavers in Silk Industry

9. Competition of Handloom Sector in the Era of Liberalization, Privatization and Globalization (LPG)

In the previous ten years, with changes acquired by globalization, progression and economic changes, handloom industry has been confronting antagonistic government approaches and prejudicial challenge. Thus, the family economy has been in strife. The resultant pressure is the most on the women weavers. In these conditions, it ended up essential to address the issues and needs of this vulnerable section of handloom industry.

10. Traditional Handloom Sector

The traditional handloom division flopped in the region of mechanical up gradation, value added product development, enhancement and viable marketing management. The consistent debts of the families, ailment and different factors, for example, globalization and industrialization held them at the most minimal degree of subsistence. Their low wages went to pay debts and everlastingly they stayed in destitution and hardship. They struggled hard, yet the profits were not many and far between. In the greater part of the weaving families in South India, the men began consuming alcohol, dismissing work, child trafficking and the women continuously assumed control over the burden of the entire family.

11. Role of women in silk weaving industries

Weaving has ordinarily been related with women, as a women's craft in numerous cultures and times. Today, weaving is a prevalent handicraft and craftsmanship for some women. In India, women are for the most part found as the significant dissident in sericulture. By and by, about 60% of all out working power contributing in sericulture as laborer in raising sustenance plants, leaf gathering, silkworm rearing, spinning/reeling and weaving is women. Women are the glad for silk industry.

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The division of work in the handloom industry is like that of the power loom industry. The impressive nearness of women in power weavers’ handlooms is generally because of the lower types of innovation which grant labor-intensive process of production. There is generous experimental proof that women's work is modest and it attempts to the benefit of managers and temporary workers to utilize them. Where production gets to family work, women only sometimes get paid for their work. In India, several women weave fabric by hand. They work from their cottages, frequently in remote, provincial zones. Their weavers at home with the goal that they can take care of their family unit obligations and support their children some time and simultaneously, procure a salary for their families. Man gives organization in this demanding live hood for the most part by selling and assuming all the acknowledgment. The handloom in India is an ignored national fortune like the Indian women.

Women have better grip on the business at hand. Profoundly conventional a large portion of the women in the industry have been engaged with the movement since they were little young ladies. Handling a large portion of the pre-weaving work, for example, planning of the yarn and the weavers, and tying and dyeing yarn and fabric, and adorning articles of clothing by hand embroidering them. Given the opportunity they even sit at the loom and do the genuine weaving. However, they have never been given the chance or the support to do the weaving individually and increment the income of the family. Custom has consistently come in the way and serves the males rather than females to proceed with an out of line feeling of superiority and in this manner unjustifiable control.

Source:https://www.moneycontrol.com/news/india/heres-how-nokia-is-helping-weavers-in-Kancheepuram-2443747.html

12. Women as Marginalised Group

Individuals who are marginalized have little authority over their lives and the assets accessible to them. As the target of improvement is to make an empowering situation for individuals to

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 appreciate a gainful, sound and imaginative life, it is imperative to address the issue of marginalization. It is a perplexing issue and there are numerous variables that reason underestimation. This paper manages the issues related with the women weavers suffering from marginalization and the approaches to diminish them. Under various conditions marginalization is one of the appearances of gender inequality. Women having a place with lower classes, lower positions, ignorant and the most unfortunate locale have various degrees of marginalization than their happier partners. "Since measurable classifications reflect what are seen to be other business circumstances, in which men rule and women are observed to be in "other" work circumstances, the disregard of women's work is dubious. The fundamental underreporting and confusion of women's commitment to the economy propagate an endless loop of disparity among people". "On account of Kancheepuram this dispute become pertinent, on the grounds that the inability to recognize women as supporters of the silk industry implies that there is no strategy set up for them. What is further concern is that in spite of the fact that women's work in reeling, spinning is imperative in silk creation, these assignments are not nonpartisan; they are categorized and keep women to a subordinate position".8

13. Conditions and Problems of Women Weavers in India

Women, a noteworthy work power used to incline toward weaving as their profession which they may think protected and secure however it is an overwhelming and destitution reduced profession. They work 12 hours per day, 30 days in a month, 12 months in a year, reprieve ceremonies, celebrations and dinner time. They have no diversion like others, for example, film, chit-chatting, investing energy with youngsters and so forth, though the main engaging music program in their lifetime is their handloom's extremely tedious sound. The most significant thing in their life is to see their children to come up in the existence with nice pay or a calling other than weaving. In spite of the fact that the women handloom women laborers from every one of the conditions of India appear to have a distinction in dressing, method of life, social customs, nourishment propensities and children raising practices, they are comparative in demeanors and direction towards handloom weaving. They cherish it since it is their convention. They worship their weaving machines in the event that they were their divine beings. Subsequently, the women endured with socio mental issues, for example, mental confusion, outrage and wrath over dissatisfactions and so on. Route to economic strengthening in trade likewise been fail to women handloom laborers, that has been conversant by Center for Handloom Information and Policy (CHIP) on 28th April, 2006 in Hyderabad, where CHIP sorted out a state level workshop to examine about gender and trade programs, it saw that women are rejected in the national foreign trade policy, esteem expansion jobs and additionally this negligence lessens their role to routine errands and expands irregularity among connections between men and women.

8 Bhattacharjee, Mahua. (2010). Silken Hues, Muted Voices: Women in the Silk Industry of Assam. Panbazar,Guwahati: DVS Publishers.

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This situation of women weavers is because of their exclusion from the following:

 Participation Trade negotiations (in finalizing national positions and also at the international level)  Finalising trade agreements  Access to raw material  Assessment of sectorial issues  Wage determination  Improving working conditions  Suitability of global commodity chains  Technological changes  Decision-making positions in the household  Assessing trade impacts and Content of National trade policies

14. Observations in Government Policies

• Trade approaches are complementing the awkwardness in men-women relationships on production house, against the women

• Textile modernisation bars women from the worth expansion jobs and decreases their job to routine assignments. A sort of deskilling can be seen.

• Cost rivalry, a consequence of trade strategies, loads the women workforce regarding expanding the quantity of working hours, decline in wages, expanding pressure and abatement in access to quality working facilities.

• There is no notice of women in National Foreign Trade arrangement. The Board of Trade does not by any means one women delegate.

Awards

It was March 9th, 2017, International Women's Day. Smriti Irani, the Union Textiles Minister reported the 'Kamaladev Chattopadhya National Awards' honors for women weavers and craftsman. It was another classification of honors particularly for women handloom weavers and handicraft craftsman.

It was likewise an event when the work sparing, proficiency improving Buniyaad Reeling Machines were dispersed to the women weavers.

Being initiated from 2017 the 'Kamaladevi Chattopadhya National Awards' would hereafter help women weavers and craftsman gets due acknowledgment and economic advantages. The honours are a little tribute to perceive the craftsmanship perfection and diligent work being

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 placed in by a great many women working in their homes, since they are conveying forward the light of India's proud handloom and handicraft heritage.9

Suggestions

To overcome the issues of women weavers a portion of the significant recommendations are referenced beneath:

 For the effective association and working of handloom weavers helpful social orders, the Government should consider every single imaginable measure to bring huge number of weavers into co-operative overlay according to plan targets.  Handloom women labourers ought to be brought under the national business assurance conspire.  The Government should build the base wages payable to the silk weavers in any event by 25% to expand the standard of living in light of the fact that the current pay scale is low.  Skill Development Programs ought to be executed in remote corners of India so as to make simple substitution for the women who is originating from very far. Women handloom labourers ought to be offered need to take an interest in enterprise.  In huge parts of remote towns and semi-urban zones in India, the women weavers are very disappointed with being the individuals from co-operative social orders, so as to ensure these women weavers, self improvement gatherings could be offered rights to build up weavers’ agreeable social orders solely for women.  Women handloom weavers and unified labourers ought to have explicit development and advancement projects and assignments in the national spending plan.  Literacy projects ought to be given to improve the standard of living and escapes from the grasp of chief weavers and shed labourers.  As a consequence of restless activities of weaving, enormous quantities of women are suffering from gynaecological issues. So as to decrease the women setbacks, free restorative camps and portable wellbeing focuses be built up in the handloom groups in all parts of India, specifically government should gather the handlooms in towns and remote villages.  The government will accord assent to the much-anticipated silk imprint plot not exclusively to place a stop to the acts of neglect in silk trades as likewise to give a brand logo to the simple distinguishing proof of Indian silk.  The Government of Tamil Nadu ought to consider the possibility of making a silk handloom supplies partnership to obtain and supply every one of the contributions to the

9 Swadesh (2018). An encouraging step for Indian women Handloom Weavers and Artisans. [online] Swadesh | Official Blog of Unnati Silks. Available at: https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/an-encouraging-step-for-indian- women-handloom-weavers-and-artisans/

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silk weaving industry. The enterprise might be either claimed completely by the Government or with part of capital contributed as offers by the recipients.  The central and state government must make purposeful and aggregate strides at various levels. These could incorporate, for instance, help of simpler access of these areas to credit from banks and other financial foundations and the development of the products of these segments in national and international markets.

15. Conclusion

Almost 2.57 lakh handloom labourers (together with women) preferred alternative work and it might be multiplied or thrice later on, except if it is ensured and breast fed by the legislature of India. This decrease displays the social and economic instability in handloom weaving however the expertise advancement projects are started by the legislature of India. Weavers cannot endure on the off chance that they do not change as indicated by the adjustments in the industrialization. In explicit, this change does not improve the basic position of women, with the exception of a move in their aptitudes and expanding trouble on their body. It would prompt deskilling of women and their social position. What is missing is the way that they should be energized and permitted by their family to take choices identified with their business ideas uninhibitedly rather than the typical culture of taking assessment of husband or other relatives. There is no shortage of imaginative ability in rural communities. All that is required is arrangement of fund, raw materials, access to business sectors, training and so on to enable such women to use their aptitudes profitably. Since studies every once in a while has emphasized on these continuing issues see that their prerequisites are satisfied with the goal that these impediments do not prevent their innovative interest. On the off chance that such arrangements are given to our town women, we could expect progressively number of skilled women weavers joining the business action, and in this manner, making the town society prosperous and self-supportable. And additionally just long haul vision, solid arrangements and plans can secure these well established overseers, specifically; the successive supply of raw materials will exclude this art and its barriers from the list of endangered traditional arts.

16. Scope For Further Research

The researcher has felt that there is scope for further research on some areas of silk handloom industry. The present study was confined to the silk weaving industries and the role of women in the village of Kancheepuram district. Due to time and cost constraints the researcher limited the study to theoretical concepts. However, future researches can be made on the basis of primary sources of data by collecting information from actual weavers as respondents using direct questionnaire, analyse the collected data and arrive at a conclusion with the findings of the study. Studies related to the problems of handloom weavers due to poor educational qualification, lack of awareness, poor earnings and low skills and ability to weave can be focused. Similar studies may be conducted in other parts of Tamil Nadu at the state level and also at the interstate level

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CASIRJ Volume 10 Issue 9 [Year - 2019] ISSN 2319 – 9202 and national level based on other traditional arts that are endangering in India for future researches.

References

1. Geetha & Indira, (2011) Silkworm Rearing by Rural Women in KarnatakaA Path to Empowerment, Indian Journal of Gender Studies 18(1):89-102

2. Kalaiyarasi (2014) An Empirical Study Of The Preferences And Buying Behavior Of Silk Sarees Among Women Consumers In Vellore Town, International Journal of Business and Administration Research Review, Vol.1, Issue.5, P.12-20

3. D. PushpaGowri (2018) “An Over View On The Growth Of Kanchipuram Silk Industry” ISBR Management Journal, Volume 3, Issue 2, November 27, 2018 ISSN (Online) 2456 - 9062

4. XinCai (2015) Systematic Management Mode of the State-Run Silk-Weaving Industry of the Song Dynasty Asian Social Science 11(9) · April 2015 5. TasneemShazli (2014) Female Work Participation in Handloom Industry-A Case Study of Mubarakpur Town, Azamgarh District, U.P Journal of Education & Social Policy Vol. 1 No. 1; June 2014. 6. Aartikawlra (2013) Kanchipuram Sari as Heritage: Artisanship and the Politics of Culture and Technology’ 7. Bhasin, J. (2009). Heritage-Kanchipuram Saris, Tamil Nadu, Indian Woman Sarees Collection, Kanjeevaram Saree, Fibre2fashion. [online] Fibre2fashion.com. Available at: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4279/south-india-heritage-kanchipuram- saris-of-tamil-nadu [Accessed 9 Sep. 2019]. Bhattacharjee, Mahua. (2010). Silken Hues, Muted Voices: Women in the Silk Industry of Assam. Panbazar,Guwahati: DVS Publishers. 8. Swadesh (2018). An encouraging step for Indian women Handloom Weavers and Artisans. [online] Swadesh | Official Blog of Unnati Silks. Available at: https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/an-encouraging-step-for-indian-women-handloom- weavers-and-artisans/

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