Madagascar

A Unique Natural Heritage

A Greentours Tour Report

8th – 22nd November 2013

Led by Callan Cohen & Phil Benstead

Daily report by Phil Benstead

Day 1 Friday 8th November UK to Paris

We met at the airport hotel in Paris and had an enjoyable dinner before turning in for the night.

Day 2 Saturday 9th November Paris to ‘Tana’

A tedious travel day, however we were soon on the ground in ‘Tana, meeting up with Callan and en route to our charming nearby hotel. It was late and most went straight to bed. Phil though shambled around the grounds for half an hour and turned up the first jewel chamaeleon of the tour and enjoyed listening to Madagascar nightjar and more prosaically barn owl.

Day 3 Sunday 10th November Tana to Toliara and Ifaty

Another day and another flight (our only internal flight of the tour), this time to the spiny forest around Toliara. Having only seen our hotel in the dark it was a shock to wake up, poke our nose over the fence and gaze onto a lawn covered in fallen jacaranda petals. It had a dreamlike quality. The song that had woken many of us proved to emanate from several of the widespread endemics, including the red fody, bulbul, wagtail and white-eye. The introduced common myna was by far the loudest and most obvious species though and was to dog us through every day and every habitat on the tour. Bags packed, breakfast eaten we headed for the airport and our flight to the south-west.

Landing in Toliara we left the aircraft to blue skies and pleasantly warm conditions, although the day was set to get hotter. Our driver BaBa, and his off-sider Pierre, loaded up the bags and we were soon on our way to a nearby arboretum which had a handy attached restaurant. This proved an ideal spot to introduce us to the flora and fauna of the dry SW. We walked the small botanical collection with Callan telling us much about the flora as we occasionally bumped into exciting new such as Madagascar turtle dove and Saklava weaver. Here we also enjoyed two dry country skink species – Tracheloptychus madagascariensis and Trachylepis aureopunctata. The birds kept appearing, the magpie

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 robin was common, Souimanga sunbirds dashed about, dripping irrigation pipes produced good views of the red fody and we found nesting crested drongo and paradise flycatcher. Endemics all.

Phil opted out of the official guided walk in favour of rest and recuperation and missed an informative talk as well as a warty chamaeleon, a roosting Madagascar nightjar and our first lemur (the grey-brown mouse-lemur)... Phil did find some dragonflies though, as well as a Madagascar hoopoe and a nice snake that on closer inspection proved to be dead but lived on much longer in the group collective memory...

After a tasty lunch we headed back to Toliara and took the incredibly sandy dirt road that constitutes the main coastal highway in these parts. Heading north we only got stuck once; BaBa enlisting the help of a legion of small boys to get enough brush under the tyres to give us traction to escape the deep blown sand. A few more scheduled stops along the coast produced some nice but very familiar wintering shorebirds and even some beautiful white-fronted plovers. A stop a little later for Madagascar plover was not successful however. We elected for a lazy afternoon at our beachside hotel and many indulged in a dip in the Mozambique Channel.

Our first checklist session was enjoyable, Callan taking us through the day’s reptile identification with the aid of some lovely sharp images. Afterwards we looked for grey-brown mouse lemur in the neem trees in the hotel garden but could only succeeded in finding a roosting warty chamaeleon. A great first day.

Day 4 Monday 11th November Ifaty

First light saw us still asleep but we were up soon after for an early breakfast on what promised to be a rather exciting day. The spiny forest beckoned. After breakfast we wandered out the gate to find that our local transport to the forest consisted of three rather quaint tumbrils drawn by some equally antiquated zebu. We travelled the short distance to the forest in some style therefore. At the forest edge a team of local bird-trackers met up with us and then we set off through one of the most alien forest types many of us had ever experienced. Despite seeing a bewildering array of the equally bizarre endemic birds on offer here during the early morning, it was the forest and its bewildering array of swollen-trunked and/or spiny-barked tree species that stole the show for many of us.

Our trackers worked very hard during the morning session, marching us from bird to bird with great efficiency. A running did just that up a small ride in the forest. A stupendous sickle-billed vanga perched up on tip of an octopus tree for all to see. A crested coua appeared briefly in a nearby tree to a more select audience. Lesser vasa parrots whistled nearby and occasionally appeared overhead in flight. Sarah spotted our only harrier-hawk of the tour and Phil and Callan had a poor encounter with our first buzzards. Both common and Archbold’s newtonia were added to the slowly growing list of endemic birds we were compiling. Everywhere souimanga sunbirds fed on flowering trees and our first stripe-throated jeries sang lustily from the treetops.

News that the guides had treed a subdesert mesite quickened the pulse. These curious birds live in small matriarchal family groups and when disturbed, a group-member is nominated and keeps

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 silent, stationary watch from a branch affording a good view of the perceived danger. This makes seeing this otherwise retiring, terrestrial species almost a formality! Arriving at the spot the guides pointed out this curious bird and we set up the ‘scope for fantastic views. Spotting a new family is an intense birding experience and some of us were more than elated.

Moving on in a silent crocodile we followed our guides deeper into the sandy forest, marvelling at the diversity of trees and having to ignore more commonplace bird species in the pursuit of the extra-special. Soon we were at a charcoal burn clearing and there in front of us was a superb pair of long-tailed ground rollers. Apparently unconcerned by our presence they stood patiently nearby allowing us plenty of time to get ‘scope views and photographs. These birds represented another bird family endemic to this fabulous island and we were very pleased.

Before we left we had time for one more bird-related march, this time to a nest site of the hard-to- find banded kestrel. On the way we had a brief encounter with the other endemic kestrel and as the day was by now warming up we also found that careful observation of the sandy floor of the forest could turn up the delightful three-eyed lizard – a proto-Iguana. Yet more evidence of this island’s ability to preserve what amount to living fossils, species that have long gone from what would have been much wider ranges in pre-history. No iguanids are found in either Asia or mainland Africa... Eventually we reached the kestrel tracker and there was the banded kestrel sitting in full view and unconcerned by our presence as it consumed the best part of a tasty-looking Blaesodactylus gecko. Amazing.

By 0900 though the day was warming up in an alarming fashion and we headed for the comforts and shade of the hotel. We lunched at length at midday, interupted by our first day-gecko (Phelsuma modesta) and afterwards we had a quick look at the nearby coral rag skinks, an agile and speedy inhabitant of the rocks in the intertidal zone along the beach.

Sadly our afternoon session was rather uncomfortable and unrewarding. The brisk southerly wind making for plenty of wind-blown dust and sand. We did add a few new butterflies to our collection before calling it a day. The beach looked tempting to some of us though after we cancelled normal operations and we pootled along looking for cowrie shells and waders.

After dinner we adjourned outside to look at the stars and a quick look around the small hotel grounds finally produced lemurs when Callan spotted three tiny grey-brown mouse-lemurs feeding in the trees. The icing on the cake before bed was good views of a feeding and calling Madagascar nightjar. A superb day!

Day 5 Tuesday 12th November Ifaty to Toliara

We got a lie-in this morning breakfasting at 0630 and heading off just after 0730. First stop was the open saline flats that are home to a pair of endemic Madagascar plovers. We only took a short time to find them and they soon attracted two tour groups of mad, keen birding types. Also here our first Kittlitz’s plover. The rest of the morning was spent scanning the mudflats and sandbars, enjoying the waders and herons on offer in this part of the world. Many species were familiar northern breeders,

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 like sanderling and curlew sandpiper, that transit or winter in the UK, but we also got to look at slightly more exotic migrant species like Terek sandpiper and greater sandplover. Anna spotted an adult Kittlitz’s plover with two tiny bundles of fluff on legs in tow as they dashed past us. The easy highlight of all this searching though was an encounter with the scarce and endemic Humblot’s heron.

A roadside wetland produced great views of barn swallow, Mascarene martin and our first looks at Madagascar swamp warbler. Here we found a few new dragonflies too, all widespread African species but welcome nonetheless. Juvenile frogs scampered from underfoot and Callan identified these as Madagascar rocket frogs.

After lunch and a siesta at our new base we headed out for a pleasant late afternoon look along the road to the south. Very different habitat here, we had left the red sand and spiny forest behind us during the short drive south and now we were on limestone with a low-growing scrub formation. Here we bumped into a couple of Verreaux’s and our first subdesert brush warblers. Callan took us to a small collapsed limestone cavern right beside the sea, where spring water flowed into saltwater – an atmospheric spot that produced great views of nesting sakalava weaver and Mascarene martin. Along the nearby shoreline we looked at new mangrove species and mudskippers. As we drove home at dusk we flushed many Madagascar nightjars off the road.

After dinner some of us went for a short nightwalk out along the access track to the hotel and did rather well for geckos, with three species logged including a representative of the bizarre Geckolepis genus of fish-scale geckos. A group of geckos that not only drop their tails at times of crisis but can slough off their entire skin if need be! Also here a beautiful Paroedura picta and a live Blaesodactylus sakalava. Nightjars were everywhere in the skies overhead and we found yet another grey-brown mouse-lemur.

Day 6 Wednesday 13th November Toliara, Zombitse and Isalo

First light saw a Madagascar buttonquail running about in the hotel grounds. A pre-breakfast walk saw us heading out along the road to a nearby series of small pools set in an expanse of rough grazing. Our target was the splendid Madagascar sandgrouse and these birds did not let us down a noisy quartet coming down to drink in front of us on one of the pools at 0630. All around us we could see and hear the tut-tutting of the Madagascar cisticola and we got good looks at the lark too.

After breakfast we took to the bus and drove the 2.5 hours to Zombitse National Park. Leaving the dry coastal scrub behind we climbed up onto a plateau that had mostly been converted to agriculture of some kind or another. We stopped once to admire a flowering shrub and also to do some shopping before Zombitse eventually appeared in front of us on the road like an apparition. Trees, butterflies and our first Madagascar black swifts were all noted. Pulling into the car park we could immediately hear the evocative cries of the incredible -roller, a bird we were shortly to see very well. On arrival queuing for the loo was interupted when one of the local guides announced that there were Verreaux’s sifaka nearby and we all made best possible speed to the which showed well but very briefly. Nice. Back at the toilet block we enjoyed great views of the rather Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 4 snazzy day gecko in these parts (Phelsuma standingi) and also a small Lygodactylus gecko.

After completing the entry formalities and engaging some guides we headed off for what would be a very productive walk. Butterflies were everywhere and we added a large number of species to our triplist, including some very lovely swallowtails. More sifakas were well-received. This time we had fantastic views of a group that were unconcerned by our presence and included a number of females with small youngsters. It was not over for us with the lemurs just yet though, rounding a bend the guides showed us the roost of a nocturnal lemur, Hubbard’s sportive lemur, and sure enough an was checking us out from a crack in a tree. A little later we saw another.

Birds featured at Zombitse too, couas especially, with both Coquerel’s and giant seen well during the walk. Callan called in a feeding flock that included our first blue vanga and rufous vanga. A huge Oustalet’s chamaeleon was well-received. Hannah found a close cuckoo-roller which was much admired. A great site but sadly we had to leave in the end and drove the short distance, through an area dominated by ‘Wild West’ sapphire diggings, to our next hotel. Set in amongst rocky outcrops surrounded by picturesque palm-studded grassland the hotel was quite special. The garden quickly produced greater vasa parrot and forest rock-thrush during a lazy late afternoon.

After dinner we did a short night walk picking up a couple of new frog species, our first white- browed owl and even a large endemic dragonfly (Anax tumorifer).

Day 7 Thursday 14th November Isalo NP

I think it would be fair to say that so far on the tour no two days had been remotely similar and today was no exception. Pre-breakfast birding revealed that the garden was rather good for birds. Madagascar hoopoes, Madagascar wagtails and a singing female greater vasa parrot were all entertaining. After breakfast we took to the bus for the drive to one of the trails in the nearby Isalo National Park. Stopping in town to pick up our guide and do the admin required took some time but we were soon on our way. Arriving at the site we walked a nice short trail up a small stream and into a remnant block of forest. On the way we enjoyed many dragonflies (including the monstrous endemic libellulid Thermorthemis madagascariensis), a few good reptiles and a nice selection of flowering plants. Arriving at the forest block we were immediately shown a group of loafing ring- tailed lemurs. Job done! The stream here held some fascinating odonates, and we had a close look at a snake that emerged between Anna’s boots when she was sitting down enjoying the scene. But it was the nearby small Brookesia chamaeleon that stole the show when one of the guides pointed it out to us. Just extraordinary. Nothing screams Madagascar more than a weird chamaeleon!

The walk back was rather warm, the sun shining relentlessly down on us from a blue sky. Lunch was taken in a shelter by the car park and then we headed back for some R&R at the hotel. Callan and Phil spent the hot part of the day checking the grounds for dragonflies and found a few new species lurking along the wet edge of the garden, which had a delicate flowering orchid (Cynorchis graminea), as well as producing two nice snake encounters.

At 1600 a few of us met up for a walk around the nearby wetland area. Burnt areas produced a nice

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 5 big orchid (Eulophia livingstoniana). The ponds were well worthwhile with great views of Madagascar kingfisher and manakin, our only Malagasy pond heron and some white-faced whistling ducks. Dragonflies here were good as you would expect but it was the good-sized Nile crocodile basking on the bank which really grabbed everyone’s attention.

After dinner just Phil went for a night walk and got great views again of the white-browed hawk-owl but failed to actually see the scops-owl despite finding at least three calling birds. A close encounter with a large Madagascarophis snake was a suitable reward though

Day 8 Friday 15th November to Ranomafana

Today was largely a transit day, travelling the lengthy distance between Le Relais de la Reine and our hotel just outside Ranomafana National Park. We spent most of the day in the bus, enjoying viewing the transition from a sandstone to a granite geology and some impressive resultant scenery. We did of course make a number of stops. Callan called the first halt in some natural grassland hoping for a sighting of the endemic harrier and whilst we were unsuccessful in that quest we enjoyed two more orchid species (Eulophia reticulata and ibityensis).

We also stopped to stretch our legs on two further occasions picking up new and interesting things. A stop in arid grassland with flat rock exposures produced another Oplurus iguanid (grandidieri) and a stop higher in the mountains gave us our first Madagascar stonechat and a surprising number of dragonflies including our first identified endemic Orthetrum azureum (eventually proving to be widespread and misunderstood). Finally though and with a profound sense of relief we were suddenly on the edge of the park and plunging into the forest and eventually arriving at our hotel.

Phil went for a short walk in the night and found another Madagascarophis snake down by the ponds before calling it a night.

Day 9 Saturday 16th November Ranomafana

An early start for what was to be an exciting day in the park. Meeting up with our guide we drove uphill to the main park trail system to try and see as many lemur species as our trackers could locate in the early morning hours. The car park was busy whilst Callan did the paperwork. Our first Nelicourvi weaver appeared and a green sunbird flew through. In the thick secondary vegetation at the start of the trail Callan found us a white-throated oxylabes. We walked from one lemur group to the next as the news from the trackers filtered down to us through the network of guides. Near the bridge though we bumped into a superbly ornate phasmid, the devilish Parectatosoma hystrix.

First up was a couple of the incredibly rare greater bamboo lemur. After enjoying watching an obliging individual we were on our way to the next sighting, a single red-fronted brown lemur right beside the trail. The lemurs kept on coming and we walked up and down ridges heading for the next species – Eastern grey bamboo lemur. On again this time to view a small family of three red-bellied lemurs. A striking species and like all the lemurs encountered during the day completely habituated

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 6 to people. Finally news came that a group of Milne-Edwards’ sifaka had been located and we headed for our fifth and final lemur species of an extraordinary walk. Standing admiring these last sifakas Callan spotted the first of two nice flatwing damselfly species, our first Tatocnemis. Walking back we found some nice frogs and more damselflies along a small stream and before we knew it we were back at the bus and cruising back to the hotel.

Phil walked the garden before turning in and found a new frog in one of the ponds (Boophis ophistolon).

Day 10 Sunday 17th November Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP)

Another early start saw us picking up some guides in the village before heading on further to the Vohiparara trailhead. The sun shone down on us again, no rain for us in Ranomafana this year. The walk was a delightful circuit through low montane forest and occasionally alongside a beautiful Pandanus-lined stream. Birds were a great feature of the walk but as ever the forest defeated many of us when it came to getting good views. I think we all managed to get a look at long-billed berniera in the end but the amazing velvet asity defeated some of us sadly. Overhead our first Madagascar starlings appeared briefly and we had a very unsatisfactory encounter with a blue coua.

We were lucky enough to have the amazing Emile guiding with us for most of the walk and he and Veronique kept up a steady stream of frogs which culminated in a simply spectacular Mantella baroni – a poisonous and highly decorated frog that has to be seen to be believed. Phil and Callan were kept busy during the walk cataloguing odonates, which not for the first time on the tour were more numerous than butterflies. What an island! The damselflies included two new flatwings, one of which was a breathtaking Protolestes, custard yellow and black with a bright red abdomen tip.

We ate our picnic lunch near the trailhead and checked the stream area before heading downhill to look at the waterfall and its environs. Emile dug out a superb Heterixalos frog here before we headed back to the hotel for lunch.

Tonight we headed back up the hill in good time to catch the dusk showing of the tiny rufous mouse- lemur. We had great views of this otherwise difficult species as it came to banana at roadside trees. When it was fully dark Emile lead us off uphill and showed us a totally amazing (and a little confusing) number of Calumma chamaeleons. We were kept very busy photographing these and amazingly at one point they also found us a sleeping pitta-like ground roller. Our walk ended with us standing in the dark marvelling at the fireflies as they blinked at us from all levels of the surrounding forest. Another great day in the field.

Day 11 Monday 18th November transit to Antsirabe

Another long day in the bus for us today but we left early enough to allow for some stops along the way. We stopped first in the village a short distance from the hotel to buy vanilla, raffia products and bananas for the journey. At the top end of the park we stopped again and explored a river and

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 7 paddyfield area on the forest edge. Sarah found an active Malagasy green sunbird nest near a rickety bridge. Whilst Phil found the first Africallagma rubristigma of the trip along the paddy margin.

Our final lengthy break came at lunchtime when we stopped at a beautiful valley wetland and searched for Madagascar snipe (sadly without success), finding our first red-billed teal and finally getting good views of the stonechat. One of the highlights here was a splendid male jewel chamaeleon in full breeding colours that received a lot of photographic attention before we left him to go on his way.

Driving on we entered basalt country and the roads got a little less curved and in the end we made good time to the hotel (run by an NGO helping children) arriving just before our first rain of the tour.

Day 12 Tuesday 19th November Antsirabe to Perinet

Phil got up at first light to track down the partridge near the hotel and succeeded in getting good but brief views of a pair crossing a track. Other birds noted were calling common quail, a pair of Madagascar buttonquail and plenty of Madagascar brush warblers.

Another big drive for us today but as always plenty of things to look at out of the window and Phil and Callan spent happy hours constructing an identification table for the Madagascan blue Orthetrum dragonflies and reviewing photographs. We made stops en route of course during the day. First stop was by a small stream complete with busy women doing laundry. Here we had lunch and the stream produced a surprising number of odonates (including our first Pseudagrion apicale) and another Bibilava snake. In the mid-afternoon we stopped again briefly at another roadside rest stop and more dragonflies were noted as we stretched our legs but an elephant-eared chamaeleon easily stole the show.

Having missed the Madagascar pratincole at Ranomafana we were pleased when we arrived at a river crossing in the afternoon and Callan found us an adult and small juvenile to look at through the telescope. Our final stop came on the edge of the park just short of the hotel. We climbed down from the bus and listened to the haunting, soulful call of the indri – a lemur we hoped to find over our last two days in Madagascar.

Day 13 Wednesday 20th November Mantadia NP

A long day in the field with Fanu (our guide for the next two days) beckoned and it was well worth the effort. Mantadia NP lay an hour away from the hotel along a rather bumpy track but the driver took it easy and it was not too uncomfortable. Once past the mining residences and HQ and into forest we started seeing things. An Eastern grey lemur crossed the track using overhanging bamboos and we tried to lure a flufftail out but without success. A short walk up the first trail produced two new snakes, which we caught to get a good look at. The stream here held a single flatwing (probably Tatocnemis sinuatipennis). Driving further into the park we checked out some mud-puddling butterflies and found our first splendid mother-of-pearl.

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A short walk took us to a small forest lake. Here we had a very enjoyable session. The birds were excellent with a single Meller’s duck, a family party of Madagascar grebes and overhead a small number of Madagascar spinetails. Dragonflies were obvious here and we added a few new species including the black splash (Tetrathemis polleni) and a cruising ferruginous glider (Tramea limbata). Dragging ourselves away we had lunch by a small stream. Sitting in the shade we saw our first Madagascar green flashers, a huge showy riverine damselfly.

After lunch we walked a good loop trail. Fanu worked hard and found us some great wildlife. In the vicinity of a large fruiting tree he found us some dozing black-and-white ruffed lemurs. They slept solidly for some time before awakening, calling madly, fighting a bit and then dispersing towards different fruit trees. Nearby Fanu produced two diademed sifaka – a female and very boisterous youngster. Superb.

Walking on Callan called a halt, he had heard the short-legged ground roller and before long we were watching it perched high above us in a tree. The ground rollers are all rather curious but nothing demonstrated the spectacular radiation in this endemic family better than this species. It resembles a South American puffbird! Two new Proplatycnemis pleased part of the team... Walking past a marshy area in the forest, Sarah and Geoff found a nice Madagascar cuckoo-hawk that most of us managed to see in the excitement of the next few minutes. A great bird. Walking on round we crossed a stream by a bridge and noticed a pair of white-throated rails feeding unconcernedly nearby. Another stream crossing just before we regained the bus had a nesting pair of Nelicourvi weavers. Another great day in the field.

Day 14 Thursday 21st November Andasibe NP

We made the most of the last morning by rising and breakfasting early and getting back out there with Fanu. This morning we went to the nearby entrance to Andasibe NP. Whilst Callan completed the formalities we watched a splendid pair of Madagascar blue pigeons. A stunning bird enjoyed by all. The interpretive centre was soon abandoned in favour of wildlife and we walked through the buffer zone of the park. Here we saw our only Ward’s flycatchers (a vanga technically) of the trip and Callan steered our attention to the the song of Rand’s warbler. Later we found one of these dumpy songsters high in a tree.

Fanu had plenty to show us this morning and we walked around an excellent array of fantastic species. First up was a visit to an active crested ibis nest. Sure enough on the nest was a fully-grown chick, looking very grown up and ready to fly soon. Timing is everything! Next we climbed the ridge and visited a collared nightjar nest. This beautiful bird sat on its nest seemingly unconcerned by our presence and it took us some time to realise that two tiny chicks were poking out from underneath. Nearby we had great views finally of the stunning blue coua as it scampered through the trees like a turaco.

Walking on we went to a recently located nest of of the difficult-to-see Madagascar sparrowhawk. The adults were in attendance and flew about occasionally but we only got partial views through the nest/canopy. Last stop was of course for the indri, a single male was easily located along the ridge

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 9 trail. On arrival it gave a burst of singing that was quite something to behold but then just sat looking around and occasionally at us. A great lemur species that wrapped up the trip nicely, now we just had to walk back to the bus. The trail took us past a forest wetland that produced a nice selection of dragonflies (including the blood-red Proplatycnemis sanguinipes) as well as a superb pair of Madagascar wood rails creeping through the vegetation.

Freshly scrubbed, we had lunch at the hotel before heading off down the road to ‘Tana. This passed fairly uneventfully from a wildlife perspective until we neared the end of our journey to the hotel. A large wetland on the outskirts of ‘Tana producing views of black-crowned night-heron and squacco heron to those that were still awake.

Our last dinner together was a happy affair and then we were off to the airport and saying goodbye and profuse thanks to Callan. Is there anyone better out there to show you the wildlife of Madagascar?

Day 15 Friday 22nd November ‘Tana’ to home

Bleary-eyed we boarded the flight and slept as best we could en route to Paris and on again to home. A great trip watching loads of amazing wildlife and all with a fantastic bunch of people.

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Systematic List Number 1 Birds

Nomenclature and sequence does not follow Sinclair and Langrand (2013) Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands.

Helmeted guineafowl Numida meleagris Sarah and Hannah saw this species at La Relais de la Reine. Madagascar partridge Margaroperdix Sarah found this species on an early madagascarensis morning walk at La Relais de la Reine. Phil had a pair very early in the morning at Antsirabe. Endemic. [Common quail] Coturnix coturnix Heard singing at Antsirabe. White-faced whistling Dendrocygna viduata Two on the ponds at La Relais de la Reine duck and frequently seen over the river at Ranomafana. Meller’s duck Anas melleri One at Mantadia NP. Endemic. Red-billed teal Anas erythrorhyncha About 8 at the snipe marsh en route to Antsirabe. Madagascar grebe Tachybaptus pelzelnii Family group on the forest pond at Mantadia NP. Endemic. Madagascar crested ibis Lophotibis cristata An old nest at Zombitse was as close as we got to this difficult-to-see species until we were shown a nest complete with a nearly-fledged youngster at Andasibe. Endemic. Black-crowned night- Nycticorax nycticorax Heard over Ivato on first night. Four from heron the bus in the evening as we neared our hotel in Tana on the last d ay of the tour. Striated heron Butorides striata Scattered records. Squacco heron Ardeola ralloides A few from the bus in the wetlands around ‘Tana on the last evening. Malagasy pond heron Ardeola idae One glorious breeding plumage bird on the ponds at La Relais de la Reine. Western cattle egret Bubulcus ibis widespread. Endemic breeder. Grey heron Ardea cinerea Ifaty area Humblot’s heron Ardea humbloti One between Ifaty and Toliara. Endemic. Purple heron Ardea purpurea La Relais de la Reine. Great egret Ardea alba One en route to Ranomafana. Dimorphic egret Egretta dimorpha Several between Ifaty and Toliara. Also recorded en route to Ranomafana. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Pair in the brackish marsh near Ifaty. Frequently encountered in the rice paddies later on in the trip. Madagascar cuckoo-hawk Aviceda madagascariensis One at Mantadia was a nice find by Geoff and Sarah. Endemic. Yellow-billed kite Milvus aegyptius Small numbers daily mostly in or around ‘built-up’ areas.

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Madagascar harrier-hawk Polyboroides radiatus Single in the spiny forest at Ifaty. Endemic. Frances’ sparrowhawk Accipiter francesiae One for Callan on the drive out of Mantadia NP. Endemic. Madagascar Accipiter madagascariensis Two adults at the nest at Andasibe N P. sparrowhawk Endemic. Madagascar buzzard Buteo brachypterus widespread endemic. Malagasy kestrel Falco newtoni widespread. Endemic. Banded kestrel Falco zoniventris Single female in the spiny forest at Ifaty. Endemic. Subdesert mesite Monias benschi Two encounters with wonderfully static flock-sentinels at Ifaty, allowing close inspection of a member of this fascinating family. Endemic. [Madagascar flufftail] Sarothrura insularis Heard at Mantadia and Andasibe NPs. Endemic. Madagascar wood rail Canirallus kioloides Heard at Ranomafana. Two seen well at Andasibe NP on the last day. Endemic. White-throated rail Dryolimnas cuvieri Heard on the walk in Isalo NP. Pair seen well in the stream at Mantadia NP. Endemic. Common moorhen Gallinula chloropus One on the forest pool at Mantadia NP. Madagascar buttonquail Turnix nigrocollis One at Ifaty. A pair at Antsirabe. Endemic. Black-winged stilt Himantopus himantopus Just one near Ifaty. Grey plover Pluvialis squatarola Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Ringed plover Charadrius hiaticula Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Madagascar plover Charadrius thoracicus Pair at the reliable site near Ifaty. Endemic. Kittlitz’s plover Charadrius pecuarius Small numbers along the coast and around small waterbod ies and salt flats near Ifaty. White-fronted plover Charadrius marginatus Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Greater sand plover Charadrius leschenaultii Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Frequently encountered coastal bird. Common greenshank Tringa nebularia Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Terek sandpiper Xenus cinereus Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Ruddy turnstone Arenaria interpres Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Sanderling Calidris alba Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Curlew sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Madagascar pratincole Glareola ocularis Adult and youngster on the river close to Mantadia NP. Endemic breeder. Crested tern Sterna bergii Small numbers along the coast near Ifaty. Lesser crested tern Sterna bengalensis A few noted at one location along the coast near Ifaty. Madagascar sandgrouse Pterocles personatus Six came into drink in the morning near Toliara. Just superb! Endemic. Feral pigeon Columbia livia Frequently encountered in towns.

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Malagasy turtle dove Nesoenas picturata widespread endemic. Namaqua dove Oena capensis Very common dry country bird. Madagascar green pigeon Treron australis In the hotel garden at Ranomafana. Endemic. Madagascar blue pigeon Alectroenas Two stunning individuals near the park madagascariensis reception at Andasibe NP on the last day. Endemic. Grey-headed lovebird Agapornis canus widespread endemic. Greater vasa parrot Coracopsis vasa A fantastic singing female of this fascinating species at La Relais de la Reine. Endemic. Lesser vasa parrot Coracopsis nigra Small numbers daily at Ifaty, Ranomafana, Mantadia and Andasibe. Endemic. Malagasy coucal Centropus toulou widespread and common. Endemic. Crested coua Coua cristata Two sightings at Ifaty and heard at Zombitse. Endemic. Verreaux’s coua Coua verreauxi Two near Toliara. Endemic. Blue coua Coua caerulea Single seen poorly at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Finally seen well at Mantadia and Andasibe NPs. Endemic. Red-fronted coua Coua reynaudii Single bird feeding young in the nest at Ranomafana on the first day. Heard elesewhere in the park. Endemic. Coquerel’s coua Coua coquereli Small numbers at Zombitse. Endemic. Running coua Coua cursor Just one at Ifaty. Endemic. Giant coua Coua gigas Three noisy birds finally tracked down at Zombitse. Immense. Endemic. Madagascar cuckoo Cuculus rochi Frequently heard away from the coast, a few seen. Endemic breeder. [Western barn owl] Tyto alba Heard in Ivato on first night. [Torotoroka scops owl] Otus madagascariensis Heard at Ivato and La Relais de la Reine. Endemic. White-browed hawk owl Ninox superciliaris Seen on both nights at La Relais de la Reine. Endemic. Madagascar nightjar Caprimulgus Heard nearly every night. Single seen well madagascariensis roosting by many at the Antsokay arboretum on day 1. A hunting bird seen well by all at Ifaty in the hotel grounds. Endemic. Collared nightjar Caprimulgus enarratus One on nest on the last day at Andasibe. Endemic. Madagascar spinetail Zoonavena grandidieri A few around the forest pool at Mantadia NP. Endemic. African palm swift Cypsiurus parvus Frequently encountered after Zombitse. Alpine swift Tachymarptis melba Single en route to Ranomafana. Malagasy black swift Apus balstoni First recorded en route to Zombitse and small numbers thereafter. Endemic.

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Cuckoo roller Leptosomus discolor Great views of a few individuals at Zombitse. Heard at Ranomafana and Andasibe and glimpsed at Mantadia. Endemic. Broad-billed roller Eurystomus glaucurus Scattered records. Short-legged ground Brachypteracias leptosomus Single seen well, albeit from below, at roller Mantadia NP. Endemic. Pitta-like ground roller Atelornis pittoides Heard at Ranomafana on the first day and a nest hole there too. A roosting bird seen on the next day during the night walk. Endemic. Long-tailed ground roller Uratelornis chimaera Pair at Ifaty – a trip highlight for some. Endemic. Malagasy kingfisher Corythornis vintsoides La Relais de la Reine, Ranomafana and common and often seen from the bus thereafter. Endemic. Olive bee-eater Merops superciliosus widespread in open country. Madagascar hoopoe Upupa marginata Antsokay arboretum, Ifaty and Le Relais de la Reine. Endemic. Velvet asity Philepitta castanea A single male seen well by some of us on the Vohiparara day (Ranomafana NP). Endemic. [Common sunbird-asity] Neodrepanus coruscans Heard at Ranomafana on both days. Endemic. Red-tailed vanga Calicalicus madagascarensis [Ifaty]. One seen at Zombitse and other singles at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP) and Andasibe. Endemic. Sickle-billed vanga Falculea palliata Single seen very well at Ifaty. Stunning. Endemic. Chabert’s vanga Leptopterus chabert The most frequently encountered and widespread vanga. Endemic. Blue vanga Cyanolanius madagascarinus At least two birds at Zombitse. Heard at Ranomafana. Endemic. Rufous vanga Schetba rufa One at Zombitse and another female on a a nest at Ranomafana. Endemic. Tylas vanga Tylas eduardi Seen poorly at Vohiparara, probably only by Callan (Ranomafana NP). Endemic. [Dark newtonia] Newtonia amphichroa Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Endemic. Common newtonia Newtonia brunneicauda Ifaty. Endemic. Archbold’s newtonia Newtonia archboldi Ifaty. Endemic. Ward’s flycatcher Pseudobias wardi A small group in the buffer zone at Andasibe on the last day. Endemic. [Madagascar Coracina cinerea Heard at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). cuckooshrike] Endemic. Crested drongo Dicrurus forficatus widespread endemic. Malagasy paradise Terpsiphone mutata widespread endemic. flycatcher Pied crow Corvus alba Widespread

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Madagascar lark Mirafra hova Frequently encountered in suitable habitat. Endemic. Malagasy bulbul Hypsipetes madagascariensis widespread and frequently encountered. Endemic. Mascarene martin Phedina borbonica widespread. Endemic. Brown-throated martin Riparia paludicola Small flock encountered en route to and from Ranomafana. Barn swallow Hirundo rustica One at Antsokay for Phil, several at the brackish marsh near Ifaty. A scarce wintering bird in Madagascar. Malagasy brush-warbler Nesillas typica [Ivato]. Easily observed in the garden at Antsirabe. Also at Andasibe and Mantadia. Endemic. Subdesert brush-warbler Nesillas lantzii Small numbers noted around the Toliara Hotel. Endemic. Madagascar swamp Acrocephalus newtoni Pair seen very well in the marsh near warbler Ifaty. Also at the snipe marsh en route to Antsirabe and at Mantadia. Endemic. White-throated oxylabes Oxylabes madagascariensis Ranomafana (1). Endemic. Long-billed bernieri Bernieria madagascariensis Heard at Zombitse and seen well at Ranomafana and Andasibe. Endemic. Spectacled tetraka Xanthomixis zosterops Ranomafana – both days. Also at Mantadia and Andasibe. Endemic. Appert’s tetraka Xanthomixis apperti Three birds at Zombitse, the only site for this endemic. Rand’s warbler Randia pseudozosterops One at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP) and several at Andasibe. Endemic. Common jery Neomixis tenella widespread. Endemic. [Green jery] Neomixis viridis Heard at Ranomafana and Mantadia. Endemic. Stripe-throated jery Neomixis striatigula widespread endemic. Madagascar cisticola Cisticola cherina widespread endemic. Malagasy white-eye Zosterops maderaspatanus Ivato, Ranomafana. Endemic. Common myna Acridotheres tristis widespread, common and introduced. Madagascar starling Hartlaubius auratus Two flying over at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). A single briefly at Mantadia. Endemic. Madagascar magpie- Copsychus albospecularis widespread endemic. robin Madagascar stonechat Saxicola sibilla [Isalo NP]. The first one seen en route to Ranomafana. Small numbers thereafter. Not split by Clements. Forest rock thrush Monticola sharpei Singles at Le Relais de la Reine and the nearby Isalo NP. Endemic. Souimanga sunbird Cinnyris souimanga widespread and common endemic. Malagasy green sunbird Cinnyris notatus Widespread but in much smaller numbers than the above species. Endemic.

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Nelicourvi weaver Ploceus nelicourvi Ranomafana (2). Great views of a pair at Mantadia NP. Endemic. Sakalava weaver Ploceus sakalava Antsokay, Ifaty. Endemic. Red fody Foudia madagascariensis widespread endemic. Forest fody Foudia omissa Ranomafana (1). Endemic. Madagascar mannikin Lemuresthes nana Finally seen well at La Relais de la Reine. Endemic. Madagascar wagtail Motacilla flaviventris common away from the dry south-west. Endemic.

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Systematic list Number 2 - Mammals Nomenclature and sequence follows Garbutt (2007).

Commerson’s leaf-nosed Hipposideros commersoni One photographed by Phil at night at Le bat Relais de la Reine. Rufous mouse-lemur Microcebus rufus One at the busy dusk feeding site at Ranomafana. Grey-brown mouse- Microcebus griseorufus One roosting individual seen during the lemur day at Antsokay Arboretum. Three at night at Ifaty and another the next night at Toliara. Hubbard’s sportive lemur Lepilemur hubbardi Two roosting in separate locations at Zombitse. Eastern grey bamboo Hapalemur griseus At least two at Ranomafana on the first lemur day. Two encounters along the road into Mantadia NP. Greater bamboo lemur Prolemur simus Two individuals at Ranomafana on the first day there. Ring-tailed lemur Lemur catta A good-sized group on the walk along the river at Isalo National Park. Black-and-white ruffed Varecia variegata Four found dozing at Mantadia before lemur waking and feeding in a nearby fruiting tree. Heard at Ranomafana. Red-bellied lemur Eulemur rubriventer A family group at Ranomafana on the first day. Red-fronted brown lemur Eulemur rufus Just one at Ranomafana. Diademed sifaka Propithecus diadema Mother and youngster seen very well at Mantadia NP. Milne-Edwards’ sifaka Propithecus edwardsi Perhaps four in the group seen well at Ranomafana. Verreaux’s sifaka Propithecus verreauxi Two groups encountered at Zombitse. Indri Indri indri Single male seen very well at Andasibe on the last day of the tour – a great way to end a great trip. Eastern red forest rat Nesomys rufus Ranomafana. [Bush pig] Potamochaerus larvatus Feeding signs at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP).

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Systematic List Number 3 Reptiles

Nomenclature and sequence follows Glaw & Vences (2007). Species in square brackets were recorded by sign or found dead on road (DOR).

[Radiated tortoise] Astrochelys radiata A captive herd at Toliara and Antsokay. Very rare in the wild as they are rather tasty. Nile crocodile Crocodylus niloticus One at the lake at Le Relais de la Reine. A stump-tailed Brookesia brygooi One at Isalo NP. chamaeleon Short-horned chamaeleon Calumma brevicorne One at the Mandraka rest stop en route to Anadasibe. Blue-legged chamaeleon Calumma crypticum One on the nightwalk at Ranomafana. O’Shaughnessy’s Calumma oshaughnessyi A female on the nightwalk at chamaeleon Ranomafana. Nose-horned chamaeleon Calumma nasutum A few on the nightwalk at Ranomafana. Band-bellied chamaeleon Calumma gastotaenia One on the nightwalk at Ranomafana. Jewel chamaeleon Furcifer lateralis One for Phil at Ivato on the first night. Another at night at Le Relais de la Reine for Phil and Callan. A superb breeding plumage female at the ‘snipe’ marsh near Ranomafana. It’s the females that look good in this genus! Oustalet’s chamaeleon Furcifer oustaleti Excellent encounters with this big species at Zombitse, Isalo NP and Le Relais de la Reine. Warty chamaeleon Furcifer verrucosus Antsokay, Ifaty Rainforest chamaeleon Furcifer balteatus One on the nightwalk at Ranomafana. an iguanid Oplurus cyclurus One on the lemur walk at Isalo NP. Dumeril’s Madagascar Oplurus quadrimaculatus Le Relais de la Reine and the ‘snipe’ swift marsh near Ranomafana. an iguanid Oplurus grandidieri en route to Ranomafana. Three-eyed lizard Chalarodon Ifaty and Zombitse and points in between. madagascariensis Broad-tailed girdled- Zonosaurus laticaudatus Isalo NP. lizard Ornate girdled-lizard Zonosaurus ornatus Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP) and the ‘snipe’ marsh next day. Malagasy keeled plated- Tracheloptychus Antsokay. lizard madagascariensis Elegant skink Trachylepis elegans La Relais de la Reine (1). Gravenhorst’s skink Trachylepis gravenhorstii La Relais de la Reine (1). Gold-spotted skink Trachylepis aureopunctata Antsokay Coral rag skink Cryptoblepharus boutonii Coastal rocks near the hotel at Ifaty. [a legless skink sp.] Voeltzkowia sp. probably lineata, tracks in the sand at Ifaty made by this species as it went about it’s subterranean business.

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Sakalava’s velvet gecko Blaesodactylus sakhalava One partial one in the claws of a banded kestrel. A live one at Toliara at night and one during the day at Zombitse. a fish-scale gecko Geckolepis typica One at Toliara at night. Common house gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Ifaty. Gray’s leaf-toed gecko Hemidactylus mercatorius Toliara, Ranomafana. a slender gecko Ebenavia inunguis A few at the hotel at Ranomafana. Big-headed gecko Paroedura picta One at Toliara. Bastard gecko Paroedura bastardi One at La Relais de la Reine for Phil. Grandidier’s dwarf gecko Lygodactylus tolampyae On the toilet block at Zombitse. Standing’s day gecko Phelsuma standingi On the park buildings at Zombitse. a day gecko Phelsuma modesta Small numbers in the hotel buildings at Ifaty. Peacock day gecko Phelsuma quadriocellata Common at Ranomafana. a snake Madagascarophis colubrinus A large individual for Phil at Le Relais de la Reine and another for him at Ranomafana (both at night). Madagascan whipsnake Bibilava lateralis Singles at Isalo NP, Le Relais de la Reine and en route to Andasibe. a snake Bibilava epistibes A Bibilava caught at Mantadia by Phil minutes after the following species was much better marked and proved to be this species. a snake Bibilava infrasignatus One caught and photographed at Mantadia NP. a snake Dromicodryas bernieri Isalo NP (1). Mahafaly sand snake Mimophis mahfalensis A well-preserved but rather dead individual in the well at Antsokay on Day 1. Two live ones photographed at Le Relais de la Reine.

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Systematic List Number 4 Amphibians

Nomenclature and sequence follows Glaw & Vences (2007).

Malagasy rocket frog Ptychadena mascareniensis widespread. Heterixalus alboguttatus Ranomafana NP (1). Plethodontohyla mihanika Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Boophis opisthodon big frog in pond at Cristo (Ranomafana) Boophis luteus The youngster found at the lemur site in Isalo NP is tentatively assigned to this widespread species. Aglyptodactylus Ranomafana NP. madagascariensis Mantella baroni Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). a pandanus frog Guibemantis sp. aff. The pandanus frog at the Andasibe albolineatus “Andasibe” reception area. Yet to be formally described. Gephyromantis plicifer Talatakeli (Ranomafana NP). Mantidactylus majori Along streams at Ranamofana. Mantidactylus melanopleura Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP).

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Systematic List Number 5 Odonata a flashwing Phaon irridipennis Mantadia and Andasibe NPs. Endemic to Madagascar. Lestes ochraceus Le Relais de la Reine. Lestes silvaticus several in seasonally wet sedge marsh clearing in forest at Mantadia NP. Nesolestes 1 Vohiparara. Nesolestes 2 “bronzey” Vohiparara. Protolestes kerckhoffae Callan excelled himself by finding a male of this very attractive species at Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Tatocnemis malgassica Taletakely. Tatocnemis sinuatipennis Mantadia NP (1 male). Proplatycnemis alatipes? Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Proplatycnemis malgassica Isalo NP. Proplatycnemis Mantadia NP. pseudalatipes? Proplatycnemis sanguinipes Andasibe NP. Proplatycnemis hova Mantadia NP. Ceriagrion sp. Le Relais de la Reine. Azuragrion kauderni widespread, seemingly the default small damsel in the areas we visited. Africallagma rubristigma Ranomafana NP and the ‘snipe’ marsh. Ischnura senegalensis recorded at sites along the coast. Pseudagrion malgassicum Vohiparara (Ramnofana NP). check id, red face short appendages... Pseudagrion sp ‘big’ Isalo NP. cf nigripes. Pseudagrion apicale another red-faced species found at lunch stop en route to Perinet and at Mandraka same day. Also in grounds of hotel at Perinet Pseudagrion simile Isalo NP (1 male). Pseudagrion ‘snipe’ snipe marsh Pseudagrion sp ‘green’ Talatakely and Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Mad emperor Anax tumorifer widespread and big enough to spot from the bus. Paragomphus obliteratus A female at Le Relais de la Reine. Probably a synonym for the African P. cognata. “cordulid” Mantadia NP (1 photographed). (and perhaps the snipe marsh) Phyllomacromia trifasciata One hawking along the trail at Andasibe NP in the last hour of the tour. Neodythemis arnoulti Vohiparara (Ranomafana NP). Neodythemis hildebrandti widespread. Orthetrum abboti Common at Isalo NP. A few elsewhere.

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Orthetrum azureum A widespread endemic species. Orthetrum icteromelas Le Relais de la Reine and a few other locations. Orthetrum lemur Two identified retrospectively from photographs, one between Isalo and Ranomafana and another at Zombitse. Orthetrum trinacria a few coastal sightings and one at Mantadia NP. Thermorthemis Isalo NP and common at madagascarensis Mantadia/ Andasibe NP. Palpopleura vestita widespread. Pintail Acisoma panorpoides This endemic sub-species (ascalaphoides) is sure to be elevated to species level. Crocothemis divisa Isalo NP. Crocothemis erythraea widespread. Diplacodes lefebvrei Antsokay, Ifaty Trithemis annulata? Antsokay, Perinet Trithemis hecate Le Relais de la Reine. Trithemis selika widespread Zygonoides lachesis Zygonyx elizabethae Ranomafana Globe skimmer Pantala flavescens Rhyothemis semihyalina Ifaty, Le Relais de la Reine, Mantadia. Keyhole glider Tramea basilaris Le Relais de la Reine (1). Ferruginous glider Tramea limbata Mantadia NP.

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