New Mexico Enchantment
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Redtail Rider RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES™ New Mexico Enchantment FEATURING Taos Pueblo RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ New Mexico Enchantment RATING: MILES: 1,600 Taos Mountains, Capulin Volcano NM, Bandolier NM, Tent Rocks NM, Petroglyph NM TIME: 6 days Our tour of northern New Mexico, the Land of journeys across Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. Enchantment, begins in the small town of Raton just south We ride east on US-64 across the flat plains towards of the Colorado border on a beautiful late spring day. In Capulin Volcano National Monument. The concept of 1941 New Mexico began using the tagline “Land of volcanoes in this stark landscape is hard to fathom, but in Enchantment” on their license plates and officially the distance we begin to see the classic cone shape of adopted it as the state’s nickname in 1990. Home to Capulin. Apparently, volcanic activity was common in this eighteen National Park Service sites attests to the scenic region millions of years ago leading up to the last eruption and historical significance of the state. But, how did the of Capulin about 60,000 years ago. As we hike around the nickname originate? In July 1906, Lilian Whiting, a NY volcano’s caldera rim we have a 360 degree panoramic Times correspondent and author, visited John Muir, the view. In the distance is an even larger and older volcano famous naturalist, and his family in Adamana, Arizona. called Old Grande Sierra. There was a time when this He was exploring (and discovering) what would later region was a cauldron of volcanic activity spewing rivers of become Petrified Forest National Park. In her writings lava. Capulin was also a geographic marker of sorts for the Lilian described this region of eastern Arizona and western pioneers in the 1800’s following the Santa Fe Trail, the New Mexico as the land of enchantment – “A spell is laid original superhighway between Missouri and Santa Fe on sod and stone, night and day are tampered with.” She traveled by settlers, traders and soldiers. later used this as the title for her book The Land of We backtrack on US-64 west riding alongside the Enchantment published in 1906 that described her eastern perimeter of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the © Redtail Rider, 2010-2014 www.redtailrider.com 2 RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ Located within the Raton- Clayton Volcanic Field, the Capulin volcano last erupted 58,000 to 62,000 years ago creating a classic cinder cone that rises 1,600 feet above the surrounding plain. Looking down from rim of the volcano across the volcanic field you can see the pressure ridges created by the vast areas of lava that once flowed through this region. View of the interior of the Capulin volcano. The rim is about 1 mile in circumference and the crater is about 400 feet deep. There is a small dormant lava dome in the center of the crater, which is all that remains of the active volcano. From the volcano rim trail we can see the immense Old Sierra Grande volcano which formed over a million years ago and rises 2,200 feet above the plains. This is the largest of hundreds of ancient volcanos that surround the region and during their active period covered the region in lava flows. © Redtail Rider, 2010-2014 www.redtailrider.com 3 RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ southernmost range of the Rocky Mountains. We abruptly transition from the flat plains into the heart of the mountains as the road winds amid towering forested cliffs. Turning north onto NM-38, part of the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, we enjoy the moderately twisty sweepers and views of snow-capped peaks in the distance. After crossing Bobcat Pass we descend into the small mountain village of Red River – only to discover that the town is hosting one of the largest motorcycle rallies in the state (which also explains the unusually high number of motorcycles we passed). Apparently, this annual weekend rally attracts 20,000+ motorcyclists in a town that has one main street that is barely a mile long. We briefly stop to walk around the town and notice among the large contingents of various motorcycle clubs and gangs are several chapters of the Bandidos Motorcycle Club, or as they call themselves – Bandido Nation. Profiled a number times on various television shows, such as Outlaw Bikers and Gangland, this high profile gang prides itself as being one percenters – outlaw bikers. This is clearly apparent on many of their distinctive vests that sport the 1% emblem. Their motto is also indicative of why it’s a good idea to give them a wide berth – “We are the people our parents warned us about.” Riding the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway through the beautiful Taos Mountains © Redtail Rider, 2010-2014 www.redtailrider.com 4 RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ The Wildcat’s Den 2457 Hwy 522 Questa, NM Local eatery near Red River that has become a popular stopping point for motorcyclists riding the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway. Offers a basic menu of burgers, sandwiches and fries that were well prepared and tasty. Red River is an 1870’s gold, silver and copper mining town cum resort gateway to the scenic Taos Mountains that normally has less than 500 residents. Every year over Memorial Day weekend the town is transformed as 20,000+ motorcycles descend for an annual rally. The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway winds through the beautiful Taos Mountains with towering cliff walls and stunning panoramic vistas. © Redtail Rider, 2010-2014 www.redtailrider.com 5 RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ We continue west and emerge from the mountains onto flat southwestern plains surrounded by a number of large volcanic cones The 1%’ers jutting up from the Taos Plateau volcanic field – a reminder of the area’s turbulent geologic past. We ride into the newest national park service What’s a one unit, the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, which was created percenter? The term refers to on March 25, 2013 by President Obama. The monument is a rugged outlaw motorcycle expanse that encompasses the Rio Grande River where it has carved a gangs. It’s origin is steep gorge in the volcanic rock. We parallel the river on NM-522 south believed to come from to US-64 west where we cross over the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, the comments made seventh highest bridge in the country spanning 1,200 feet across the Rio following the Hollister Riot of 1947, during Grande River. one of the early post-World War II motorcycle rallies. The reference was made that 99% of motorcyclists are law-abiding citizens, whereas 1% are not. Many outlaw biker gangs, such as the Hells Angels, Bandidos, the Pagans, and the Outlaws have latched onto this distinction and incorporated it into their culture and induction processes. Outlaw biker gangs around the world have adopted the 1% symbol in the form of patches and decals that are earned by performing various tasks or achievements. It is often inferred these achievements are generally illegal in nature. The culture around the outlaw biker gangs and the one percenters has been recently portrayed on the Sons of Anarchy television series. The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge rises 565 feet above the river and is the seventh highest bridge in the U.S. The Rio Grande River carves an impressive canyon on its drive south to the Gulf of Mexico © Redtail Rider, 2010-2014 www.redtailrider.com 6 RIDING AMERICA’S TREASURES ™ After spending the night in Taos, we get an early start Trail the fort was a much welcomed sight. on another mostly sunny day riding south on NM-518 into We backtrack our route on NM-161 and turn north onto the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. We practically have the NM-434 for a pleasant and picturesque ride along the road to ourselves and enjoy the sweepers and moderate eastern edge of the mountain range. In the resort town of twisties with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Angel Fire we turn onto US-64, which is part of the We cross over the mountain range and emerge onto the flat Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway to the Vietnam Veterans prairie land crisscrossed by arroyos with ranges of bison Memorial State Park. The centerpiece is the sleekly and pronghorn antelope. Following NM-161 we reach our designed Peace and Brotherhood Chapel gracefully perched first stop of the day – Fort Union National Monument. on a hillside overlooking Moreno Valley. The memorial Fort Union was originally built in 1851 and was a key way was built in 1971 by the grief-stricken parents of Marine 1LT station along the Santa Fe Trail and survived until 1891 David Westphall who was ambushed and killed along with when the railroads made the trail obsolete. Although it fifteen fellow soldiers in Vietnam in 1968. The memorial is became the largest post in the southwest and boasted many a somber and respectful tribute to all servicemen. amenities not easily available in such a remote area, We continue west on US-64 through the Sangre de including a 50 bed hospital – the largest medical facility in Cristo mountain range closing the loop of the Enchanted the west - and a trading post, it was still harsh duty. The Circle Scenic Byway in Taos. This stretch of the byway has wind is a persistent presence and subject to strong challenging twisties and sweepers along with great views of sustained gusts that gave rise to the fort’s nickname of Fort the mountains. Windy, which was not necessarily a term of endearment.