Makeup Makeover Makeup Artists Were Inspired to Use More Color During the Recent Collections — and the Sector Could Certainly Use a Lift
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ISSUE #52 MAY 7, 2021 A Publication of WWD Makeup Makeover Makeup artists were inspired to use more color during the recent collections — and the sector could certainly use a lift. Here, leading marketers and retailers on what's working now and their plans to revive sagging sales. For more, see pages 8 to 11. PLUS: Assessing how Black brands are faring and why (beauty) moms know best. COLLAGE BY JILLIAN SOLLAZZO THE BUZZ 2 MAY 7, 2021 Beauty Bulletin Neutrogena Studios' Neutrogena new campaign, For People With Skin. Partners By The With Numbers: Walgreens, TikTok's Top Melanoma Skin Care Research Trends From K-Beauty to Foundation chlorophyll, what's hot on TikTok when it comes ¬ Neutrogena has teamed up to skin care. BY JAMES MANSO with retailer Walgreens and the Melanoma Research Foundation to PER NEW DATA FROM retailer educate consumers on healthy sun SkinStore, which cross-referenced practices. how to self-check for skin cancer marked tubes will provide $1 to the beauty trends on the platform with The joint effort coincides with the and aid in its prevention. Melanoma Research Foundation, up Google searches, TikTok users' beginning of skin cancer awareness The partnership is also planning to $120,000. interests run the gamut from internal supplements to skin care month and includes several prongs, to leverage social media, namely “We’re dedicated to the tools and procedures. starting with brick-and-mortar Facebook Live, to further catch eradication of preventable skin Topping the list was gua sha, retail sales employees. Neutrogena consumers’ eyes. Its launch cancer and have long advocated for with nearly 3 million Google has trained 3,000 of Walgreens’ coincides with the release of greater education and promotion searches, and over 250 million beauty consultants to “facilitate “In the Sun,” the inaugural film of sun safe behaviors because views on TikTok. Dermaplaning in-aisle education and product from Neutrogena Studios. Kerry we know it is imperative to total didn't see the same search recommendations,” per a statement Washington, brand ambassador for skin health and well being,” said resonance, but had 1 billion views from the retailer. Neutrogena, worked as an executive Kerry Sullivan, general manager of on the popular platform. Jade Part of the partnership’s in-store producer on the film, which centers Neutrogena, in a statement. rolling made the list with over push will include product packaging around sun care. Last month, Neutrogena debuted 43 million views. for its sunscreens, which will start Lastly, Neutrogena will be its “For People With Skin” initiative, Different philosophies toward featuring scannable QR codes. producing limited-edition aimed at making its products — and skin care — and skin wellness The codes will direct consumers to sunscreens for sale exclusively at skin health practices — accessible — also dotted the round-up. “Skinimalism,” or the paring several digital resources, including Walgreens. Each of the specially to more consumers. —James Manso back of skin care regimens, took the second slot on the list, as did face-mapping, which ties troubled complexions to different Prestige Beauty Grew 11 Percent in Q1, Per NPD Group systems and organs in the body. Here, the top 10 TikTok ¬ According to the first perfumes and sets growing trends, as ranked by Google quarterly data of 2021 from the triple-digits ahead of the holiday. search volume. NPD Group, the U.S. market's By contrast, success in the prestige beauty categories are hair category is indicative of 1. gua sha bouncing back. the larger trend toward self- 2,858,210 Prestige beauty sales almost care, which consumers seem 2. skinimalism hit $4.2 billion in the first to be sticking with. Hair masks, 1,860,310 quarter of 2021, up 11 percent face and body serums, nail care from the same period in 2020 and home fragrance continued 3. blackheads removal (which included the onset of the 1,329,620 to perform well. Hand soaps Tk Caption coronavirus pandemic). also sold well. 4. dermaplaning Digital sales continued to track Makeup was the only 909,290 gains, and were up 33 percent. category that declined in the 5. drinking chlorophyll However, brick-and-mortar sales quarter, down 9 percent to 908,770 also had a positive quarter $1.5 billion. It is still the market's 6. jade roller with a 3 percent increase. biggest category, and saw 711,270 Per a statement from NPD, highlighters and bronzers 7. micellar water hair care and fragrance — lift 12 percent and 2 percent, 64,0200 the two categories with the respectively. Eyes also 8. hydrocolloid bandages highest growth at 48 percent outshone the rest of 582,140 and 45 percent, respectively the category. — drove growth in the channel. Skin care, up 12 percent, is 9. korean skin care Fragrance sales reached now just shy of overtaking 198,940 $953 million during the Hair care posted the most growth in Q1 2021. makeup's spot as the top 10. face mapping period, while hair hit the Valentine's Day buoyed the category in the market at 178, 240 $300 million mark. fragrance category, with both $1.4 billion. —James Manso BRIDGING THE DIGITAL DIVIDE THE NEXT GENERATION OF INNOVATION Announcing the Project Connect Council Members, who will review applications of this unique grant opportunity, spotlighting a new generation of business leaders and entrepreneurs. Grant-funded support. Mentorship. Brand exposure. THE PROJECT CONNECT COUNCIL MEMBERS: VASILIKI PETROU AMANDA SMITH CARLA NELSON KEVIN FRIED Executive Vice President and President, Fairchild Founder, Black Fashion Director of Retail, Group CEO, Unilever Prestige Fashion Media World Foundation Google To learn more and apply for this unique opportunity, TAP HERE JOHN MELO VICKY TSAI President and CEO, Amyris Founder, Tatcha Applications must be submitted by 05/28 and will be reviewed by a full panel of industry experts including FMG President Amanda Smith and EVP of Unilever Powered by Prestige Vasiliki Petrou. All interested in applying for the “Project Connect – Bridging the Digital Divide” grant are encouraged to visit the link above. PRESTIGE NEWS FEED 4 MAY 7, 2021 What the Beauty Industry Isn’t Getting About How to Support Black Businesses Despite increased support over the last year, inequity is still a very real problem for Black-owned brands. BY TARA DONALDSON TURNS OUT, the beauty industry is only addressing one petal on the flower of its inclusion problem. Despite the visible outpourings of support (like donations, mentoring, sudden shelf space at times sans adequate retail support) for Black- owned businesses in the last year, beauty hasn’t quite come to terms with the real issue keeping the sector from substantive progress on diversity: equalizing the economic playing field. In a first-of-its-kind study that digs into the economic realities for the Black/African American beauty market, findings from “Readiness Is the New Green” paint a picture of very disparate business realities between Black-owned brands and their general market counterparts. This isn’t news to people of color who have been battling these imbalances for generations, but as Corey Huggins, founder and The "Readiness Is the New Green” survey paints a picture of very disparate business managing director of global think realities between Black-owned brands and their tank Ready to Beauty, puts it, “there general market counterparts. can’t be real economic change without real economic data.” And the in light of the pandemic, plus what overall business than their general It’s a concern most in the general industry at large needs the data to they believe the beauty sector could market peers who are more likely to market don’t have at all. Seventy- know where it is and where it needs be doing to better support Black work for bigger global companies, six percent of respondents in the to go from here now that summer of entrepreneurs and brands. according to the study; and two, broader market group said the 2020’s racial reckoning has forced Their responses were juxtaposed Black consumers and consumers of question about access to financial everyone into the conversation—and against those of an industry panel color generally overindex in beauty resources wasn’t applicable. prompted some to dish out cash of more than 70 professionals from spending, so the panelists who more “This is in stark contrast to the without much consideration. the general beauty market (reflecting often cater to this cohort may have Black/African American panel in “I knew that some of the the spectrum of races and ethnicities greater confidence in demand for our study, who are heavily involved opportunities that were coming [for across the broader industry), their products and services. in their own financial management, people-of-color-owned businesses] including graduate students and As far as financing, that’s where yet lack access to the resources were just so misdirected—just alumni from The Fashion Institute of the gap between the two market necessary to do so at parity with really, really misdirected—I thought Technology’s Cosmetics & Fragrance groups widens even further. the general market, which often [we’re] not going to be able to seize Marketing Management master’s Asked which financial resources they has layers of experts dedicated to this moment unless we have the program, who are all currently had access to in order to keep business handling such endeavors,” the baseline,” said Huggins, whose think working in the industry. going amid the pandemic, 70 percent of survey noted. tank is a passion project among its What it found was divergent the Black/African American panel said Hyper Skin founder and chief central team of former L’Oréal USA perspectives on a range of issues.