Taiwan – Endemics & Winter Birds Naturetrek Tour Report 28 February – 9 March 2014 Maroon Oriole Taiwan Yuhinia Mikado Pheasant White-eared Sibia Report and cover images by Richard Foster Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Taiwan Tour Leader: Richard Foster Naturetrek Participants: Chris Collins Mike Morse Martin Wells Colin Ryall Dylan Edwards Malcolm Shakespeare Summary Naturetrek’s first bird tour to Taiwan proved to be very successful and fun for all involved. As well as an excellent bird list (all targets seen well) we enjoyed the food, mammals, scenery, great company and even a bit of culture! We visited the excellent forests of Dasyueshan, Alishan, and Wulai for the endemics; the southwest coast for wintering shorebirds; and Taiwan’s equivalent of Flamborough Head, on the north coast, for a bit of twitching. While being a bit cooler than normal (and one day being very wet) the weather was mostly very pleasant. Many thanks to the group members for the fantastic banter and teamwork. Day 1 Friday 28th February Outbound to Taiwan via Dubai All participants travelled from London, departing from Gatwick on a mid-day Emirates flight to Taiwan, via Dubai. Day 2 Saturday 1st March Airport/Coastal Taoyuan to Central Taiwan Weather: Overcast, warm Our flight from Dubai arrived on time at Taipei Airport and within 20 minutes we were getting a taste of farmland and coastal Taiwan birding. While not the pristine Formosan scenery we would soon get used to, we were familiarizing ourselves with common farmland birds such as Black Drongo, Chinese Bulbul, Japanese White-eye, Spotted Dove, Scaly-breasted Munia, Plain Prinia, Barn Swallow, Pacific Swallow, Eurasian Magpie, Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Cattle Egret, White Wagtail, Black-crowned Night-Heron and the introduced Sacred Ibis. Among the Tree Sparrows, Feral Pigeons and Common and Javan Mynas some of us had Crested Myna, and Black-collared Starling. At an estuary there were Grey Heron, Egrets - Great, Intermediate and Little, Little Tern, Grebe and the highlights for today - Grey-tailed Tattler and Black-tailed Gull. On the way to our hotel, at the base of the Dasyueshan Forest in central Taiwan, everyone learned how to say ‘two beers please’ in Chinese. Savanna Nightjar was ticked while strolling to a sumptuous meal and then then it was time for bed. © Naturetrek October 14 1 Taiwan Tour Report Day 3 Sunday 2nd March Low to mid elevation Dasyueshan Weather: Fresh to cold, mostly overcast to misty At first light, and with coffee in hand we were getting views of our first endemics Taiwan Barbet, Taiwan Hwamei, Taiwan Scimitar-Babbler amongst fruit orchards. Also Grey-capped Woodpecker, Vinous-throated Parrotbill, Manchurian Bush-Warbler, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler, Striated Prinia, Grey Treepie, Crested Goshawk, and Emerald Dove. Lesser Coucal was heard, as was Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler. A surprise was to hear the Taiwan Bush-warbler calling at this low elevation. A somewhat secretive bird at this time of year, and usually only encountered at high elevations, poor views only and went on the ‘better views needed list’. At a stop next to a river for breakfast, it was good to run into Oriental Turtle-Dove, Grey-chinned Minivet, White-rumped Munia, Plumbeous Redstart, Striated Heron, Common Kingfisher...but we somehow dipped on Brown Dipper. Wandering around orchards we had Malayan Night-Heron, Daurian Redstart, recently split Grey- cheeked Fulvetta, Grey Wagtail, Grey Bunting, and Collared Finchbill. Many good butterfly and japalura species. Moving higher into good broadleaf forest we had White-backed Woodpecker, Bronzed Drongo, Black Bulbul, and Crested Serpent-Eagle. It was soon time for tea again at an established stake out for the Swinhoe’s Pheasant. We didn’t have to wait long, in between sustained views of both the superb male and females pheasants we were able to get our first views of a variety of other important species; Steere's Liocichla, White-tailed Robin, White- eared Sibia, Vivid Niltava. Mountain Hawk-Eagle was seen from just up the road. We slowly ascended the steeply sloped mountains. A scrubby corner proved fruitful, with views of Taiwan (split now from Chinese) Bamboo-Partridge at close range. A mixed flock of Rufous-faced Warbler, Taiwan Barwing, Green-backed Tit, Taiwan Yuhina - and a surprise Golden Parrotbill for some of us. After a picnic lunch, we hastened to a location at over 2,000 meters elevation. The afternoon mist was thick enough to tempt an elegant Mikado Pheasant to come into the open, but not too much to prevent us getting reasonable photos. White-whiskered Laughingthrush scampered boldly around our feet for any digestive biscuit crumbs. Checked into our cosy cabins at dusk, dinner, and check list. With lots of great birds fresh in our minds we retired early to bed. Day 4 Monday 3rd March Higher & mid-elevation Dasyueshan Weather: Very misty, cool We started the day with a pre-breakfast stroll around the grounds of the lodge. The cold morning mist made progress slow and we only picked up Collared Bush-robin, Red-flanked Bluetail, Pale Thrush, and a noisy flock of Rufous-crowned Laughingthrush. Other birds stayed frustratingly hidden. After breakfast we moved higher into the conifer forest and soon tempted out the White-browed Bush-Robin, Flamecrest, and had splendid views of a pair of Taiwan Rosefinch. Ready for any free food were the Formosan Striped Squirrel and Owston’s Long- nosed Tree Squirrel. 2 © Naturetrek September 14 Taiwan Tour Report Feeling more alpine near the top we coaxed out Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler, Taiwan Fulvetta, Eurasian Wren and another Mikado Pheasant. We were entertained by the caterwauling cries of a lakeside religious ceremony - maybe that jinxed the skulking White-browed Shortwing - only viewable for some of us! Also uncooperative, was the Taiwan Bush-warbler, only seen by some of the group and better views would be needed. Mixed flocks held the crested version of Coal Tit, Black-throated Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch and eventually Yellow Tit. A Black Eagle soared in the valleys below us. Coming back down the main road, Asian House-Martin were easy to see from a scenic bridge. A tip-off from the ever-friendly local bird photographers had us running to enjoy sustained views of Taiwan Partridge interacting with Swinhoe’s Pheasants (in full breeding finery) and Red-bellied Squirrels. A Collared Owlet was heard, and a Chinese Weasel was spotted in a nearby ditch. In fading light, and with extra artificial illumination, we soon found a Little Forktail flitting around a waterfall. After dinner and checklists we went for a walk id-ing bats (thanks Chris) and had superb views of White-faced Flying Squirrels. Along the way we took the opportunity to visit the local police. Having no significant crime to deal with, rural stations focus on providing other hospitality: hot tea, biscuits, bird/moth gen, bathrooms, seating etc. Very civilized. Tawny Owl heard only. Another fantastic birding day! Day 5 Tuesday 4th March Dasyueshan Forest to SW Coast Weather: Sunny then some cloud The pre-breakfast stroll around the lodge added Eurasian Jay, Scaly Thrush, and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. In the background breathtaking scenery and a Taiwan Serow was flushed. Snowy-browed Flycatcher heard only. Lower down appropriate habitat delivered many now-familiar birds and added Dusky Warbler and Rufous- capped Babbler. Arctic Warbler and Rusty Laughingthrush surprised us near our picnic tables. After a struggle, we were rewarded with proper views of White-bellied Pigeon. A Yellow-browed Warbler for some, and the prints of a Formosan Ferret-Badger. Amid 1,500 year-old trees, again we did battle with the Taiwan Wren- Babbler (Cupwing), and lower down Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler (only fleeting glimpse) until failing light made our endeavours humorously deranged. Another delicious Chinese-style feast, and soon we were on smooth freeways south of the tropic of cancer to our hotel on the south-west coast. Day 6 Wednesday 5th March SW Coast to mid-elevation Alishan Weather: Warm & sunny We enjoyed the contrast in the geography and climate, from rugged, cooler mountains yesterday to flat, warm coastal wetlands today. We visited several locations not far from the coast on the Tropic of Cancer; abandoned salt pans - now managed as a bird reserve; extensive expanses of aquaculture ponds; and fallow fields. © Naturetrek September 14 3 Taiwan Tour Report Today’s big target of over 50 Black-faced Spoonbill were soon found next to Black-headed Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, and Pied Avocet . A Yellow Bittern coming in to land flushed a Great Bittern. Three of us had Cinnamon Bittern, and Zitting Cisticola heard only. Easy-to-scope ponds held good numbers of Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot and even a single Mallard and Purple Heron. Hundreds of Great Cormorant. Ruddy-breasted Crake, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Oriental Magpie-Robin and Common Snipe loitered near our picnic lunch spot. Mudflats further along were good for waders: Black-bellied Plover, Pacific Golden-Plover, Kentish Plover, Common Ringed Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Black-winged Stilt, Terek Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Sanderling, Red-necked Stint, and Dunlin. Also several Brown and Long-tailed Shrike, Golden-headed Cisticola, Plain Martin, hundreds of Red Collared-Dove and one Eastern Marsh Harrier, Black-headed Gull, Herring (Mongolian) Gull, Caspian Tern, Black Tern, Whiskered Tern, Roseate Tern, Black-naped Tern, Common Tern, Great Crested Tern. A river estuary had more Spoonbills...Osprey, Black-shouldered Kite, Saunders's Gull, Striated Swallow, Far Eastern Curlew, Nordmann's Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Gull-billed Tern.