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Taiwan – Endemics & Winter

Naturetrek Tour Report 28 February – 9 March 2014

Maroon Oriole Yuhinia

Mikado Pheasant White-eared Sibia

Report and cover images by Richard Foster

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Taiwan

Tour Leader: Richard Foster Naturetrek

Participants: Chris Collins Mike Morse Martin Wells Colin Ryall Dylan Edwards Malcolm Shakespeare

Summary

Naturetrek’s first tour to Taiwan proved to be very successful and fun for all involved. As well as an excellent bird list (all targets seen well) we enjoyed the food, mammals, scenery, great company and even a bit of culture! We visited the excellent forests of Dasyueshan, Alishan, and Wulai for the endemics; the southwest coast for wintering shorebirds; and Taiwan’s equivalent of Flamborough Head, on the north coast, for a bit of twitching. While being a bit cooler than normal (and one day being very wet) the weather was mostly very pleasant. Many thanks to the group members for the fantastic banter and teamwork.

Day 1 Friday 28th February

Outbound to Taiwan via Dubai All participants travelled from London, departing from Gatwick on a mid-day Emirates flight to Taiwan, via Dubai.

Day 2 Saturday 1st March

Airport/Coastal Taoyuan to Central Taiwan

Weather: Overcast, warm Our flight from Dubai arrived on time at Taipei Airport and within 20 minutes we were getting a taste of farmland and coastal Taiwan birding. While not the pristine Formosan scenery we would soon get used to, we were familiarizing ourselves with common farmland birds such as Black Drongo, Chinese Bulbul, Japanese White-eye, Spotted Dove, Scaly-breasted Munia, Plain Prinia, Barn Swallow, Pacific Swallow, Eurasian Magpie, Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Cattle Egret, White Wagtail, Black-crowned Night-Heron and the introduced Sacred Ibis.

Among the Tree Sparrows, Feral Pigeons and Common and Javan Mynas some of us had Crested Myna, and Black-collared Starling. At an estuary there were Grey Heron, Egrets - Great, Intermediate and Little, Little Tern, Grebe and the highlights for today - Grey-tailed Tattler and Black-tailed Gull.

On the way to our hotel, at the base of the Dasyueshan Forest in central Taiwan, everyone learned how to say ‘two beers please’ in Chinese. Savanna Nightjar was ticked while strolling to a sumptuous meal and then then it was time for bed.

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Taiwan Tour Report

Day 3 Sunday 2nd March

Low to mid elevation Dasyueshan

Weather: Fresh to cold, mostly overcast to misty At first light, and with coffee in hand we were getting views of our first endemics Taiwan Barbet, Taiwan Hwamei, Taiwan Scimitar-Babbler amongst fruit orchards. Also Grey-capped Woodpecker, Vinous-throated , Manchurian Bush-Warbler, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler, Striated Prinia, Grey Treepie, Crested Goshawk, and Emerald Dove. Lesser Coucal was heard, as was Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler. A surprise was to hear the Taiwan Bush-warbler calling at this low elevation. A somewhat secretive bird at this time of year, and usually only encountered at high elevations, poor views only and went on the ‘better views needed list’.

At a stop next to a river for breakfast, it was good to run into Oriental Turtle-Dove, Grey-chinned Minivet, White-rumped Munia, Plumbeous Redstart, Striated Heron, Common Kingfisher...but we somehow dipped on Brown Dipper. Wandering around orchards we had Malayan Night-Heron, Daurian Redstart, recently split Grey- cheeked , Grey Wagtail, Grey Bunting, and Collared Finchbill. Many good butterfly and japalura .

Moving higher into good broadleaf forest we had White-backed Woodpecker, Bronzed Drongo, Black Bulbul, and Crested Serpent-Eagle. It was soon time for tea again at an established stake out for the Swinhoe’s Pheasant. We didn’t have to wait long, in between sustained views of both the superb male and females pheasants we were able to get our first views of a variety of other important species; Steere's Liocichla, White-tailed Robin, White- eared Sibia, Vivid Niltava. Mountain Hawk-Eagle was seen from just up the road.

We slowly ascended the steeply sloped mountains. A scrubby corner proved fruitful, with views of Taiwan (split now from Chinese) Bamboo- at close range. A mixed flock of Rufous-faced Warbler, Taiwan Barwing, Green-backed Tit, Taiwan - and a surprise Golden Parrotbill for some of us.

After a picnic lunch, we hastened to a location at over 2,000 meters elevation. The afternoon mist was thick enough to tempt an elegant Mikado Pheasant to come into the open, but not too much to prevent us getting reasonable photos. White-whiskered Laughingthrush scampered boldly around our feet for any digestive biscuit crumbs. Checked into our cosy cabins at dusk, dinner, and check list. With lots of great birds fresh in our minds we retired early to bed.

Day 4 Monday 3rd March

Higher & mid-elevation Dasyueshan

Weather: Very misty, cool We started the day with a pre-breakfast stroll around the grounds of the lodge. The cold morning mist made progress slow and we only picked up Collared Bush-robin, Red-flanked Bluetail, Pale , and a noisy flock of Rufous-crowned Laughingthrush. Other birds stayed frustratingly hidden. After breakfast we moved higher into the conifer forest and soon tempted out the White-browed Bush-Robin, Flamecrest, and had splendid views of a pair of Taiwan Rosefinch. Ready for any free food were the Formosan Striped Squirrel and Owston’s Long- nosed Tree Squirrel.

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Taiwan Tour Report

Feeling more alpine near the top we coaxed out Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler, Taiwan Fulvetta, Eurasian Wren and another Mikado Pheasant. We were entertained by the caterwauling cries of a lakeside religious ceremony - maybe that jinxed the skulking White-browed Shortwing - only viewable for some of us! Also uncooperative, was the Taiwan Bush-warbler, only seen by some of the group and better views would be needed. Mixed flocks held the crested version of Coal Tit, Black-throated Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch and eventually Yellow Tit. A Black Eagle soared in the valleys below us.

Coming back down the main road, Asian House-Martin were easy to see from a scenic bridge. A tip-off from the ever-friendly local bird photographers had us running to enjoy sustained views of Taiwan Partridge interacting with Swinhoe’s Pheasants (in full breeding finery) and Red-bellied Squirrels. A Collared Owlet was heard, and a Chinese Weasel was spotted in a nearby ditch. In fading light, and with extra artificial illumination, we soon found a Little Forktail flitting around a waterfall.

After dinner and checklists we went for a walk id-ing bats (thanks Chris) and had superb views of White-faced Flying Squirrels. Along the way we took the opportunity to visit the local police. Having no significant crime to deal with, rural stations focus on providing other hospitality: hot tea, biscuits, bird/moth gen, bathrooms, seating etc. Very civilized. Tawny Owl heard only. Another fantastic birding day!

Day 5 Tuesday 4th March

Dasyueshan Forest to SW Coast

Weather: Sunny then some cloud The pre-breakfast stroll around the lodge added Eurasian Jay, Scaly Thrush, and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. In the background breathtaking scenery and a Taiwan Serow was flushed. Snowy-browed Flycatcher heard only.

Lower down appropriate delivered many now-familiar birds and added Dusky Warbler and Rufous- capped Babbler. Arctic Warbler and Rusty Laughingthrush surprised us near our picnic tables. After a struggle, we were rewarded with proper views of White-bellied Pigeon. A Yellow-browed Warbler for some, and the prints of a Formosan Ferret-Badger. Amid 1,500 year-old trees, again we did battle with the Taiwan Wren- Babbler (Cupwing), and lower down Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler (only fleeting glimpse) until failing light made our endeavours humorously deranged. Another delicious Chinese-style feast, and soon we were on smooth freeways south of the tropic of cancer to our hotel on the south-west coast.

Day 6 Wednesday 5th March

SW Coast to mid-elevation Alishan

Weather: Warm & sunny We enjoyed the contrast in the geography and climate, from rugged, cooler mountains yesterday to flat, warm coastal wetlands today. We visited several locations not far from the coast on the Tropic of Cancer; abandoned salt pans - now managed as a bird reserve; extensive expanses of aquaculture ponds; and fallow fields.

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Taiwan Tour Report

Today’s big target of over 50 Black-faced Spoonbill were soon found next to Black-headed Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, and Pied Avocet . A Yellow Bittern coming in to land flushed a Great Bittern. Three of us had Cinnamon Bittern, and Zitting Cisticola heard only. Easy-to-scope ponds held good numbers of Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot and even a single Mallard and Purple Heron. Hundreds of Great Cormorant. Ruddy-breasted Crake, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Oriental Magpie-Robin and Common Snipe loitered near our picnic lunch spot. Mudflats further along were good for waders: Black-bellied Plover, Pacific Golden-Plover, Kentish Plover, Common Ringed Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Black-winged Stilt, Terek Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Sanderling, Red-necked Stint, and Dunlin. Also several Brown and Long-tailed Shrike, Golden-headed Cisticola, Plain Martin, hundreds of Red Collared-Dove and one Eastern Marsh Harrier, Black-headed Gull, Herring (Mongolian) Gull, Caspian Tern, Black Tern, Whiskered Tern, Roseate Tern, Black-naped Tern, Common Tern, Great Crested Tern.

A river estuary had more Spoonbills...Osprey, Black-shouldered Kite, Saunders's Gull, Striated Swallow, Far Eastern Curlew, Nordmann's Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Gull-billed Tern. A chicken farm had Red-billed Starling, and for some of us a glimpse of a Cinnamon Bittern. Then it was back to cooler and pristine mountain tea plantations. A Collared Scops-Owl came in to tape, but the Mountain Scops was less cooperative staying just one bit of bamboo ahead of us.

Day 7 Thursday 6th March

Alishan & Yushan N.P. to northern Taiwan

Weather: Overcast, cool to warm As we were keen to see all the remaining endemic high elevation species of the tour, we started the day early. Before we got as far as Yushan National Park and ‘first breakfast’ we had nailed down good views of the skulking Taiwan Wren-Babbler. Joy all round! A pair of Mikado Pheasants foraging next to the car allowed for photographs, and we were reacquainted with many of the endemics, Formosan Macaque, and a furtive Grey- faced Woodpecker.

In the Tataka area we had our fill of Brambling (special for Taiwan), Grey-headed Bullfinch, and satisfying views of Black-faced Bunting. Some of us spotted a distant Brown Bullfinch. An Ashy Wood-Pigeon could not be coaxed into proper view. As with Dasyueshan, it was fun watching the Eurasian Nutcracker and Large-billed Crow interacting with the Laughing-thrushes. On the way down we added Oriental Honey-buzzard. A smooth drive northwards, and another excellent dinner.

Day 8 Friday 7th March

Wulai to North coast

Weather: Warm mostly overcast Today was for enjoying an area just south of Taipei City, targeting endemics (and near endemics) not easily found in central Taiwan.

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Taiwan Tour Report

Lush, but easily birded, broadleaf forest gave us White-bellied Yuhina, Besra, House Swift, Brown-headed Thrush, and finally Varied Tit which made some beautiful pictures. An overgrown cemetery provided Japanese Bush-Warbler, Olive-backed Pipit, Maroon (likely to be split as ‘Red’) Oriole, Formosan Magpie and gave us more than satisfying views of Taiwan Whistling-thrush….but only some of us had proper views of a Taiwan Bush-warbler. The Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler still refused to make a proper showing!

Day 9 Saturday 8th March

North coast, Shrmen Reservoir

Weather: Cool and rain “British weather” conditions did not stop us finding a variety of thrushes just outside our hotel - as well as Pale and Brown-headed we had Eyebrowed, Dusky, Naumann's. Local photographers were targeting a Eurasian Kestrel. We then retreated for a much-needed hot breakfast.

A nearby estuary and wetland gave us Tufted Duck, White-breasted Waterhen, Green Sandpiper and a very sodden Oriental Skylark. Walking out to Taiwan’s favorite twitching spot we had Japanese Cormorant, Pacific Reef-Heron, Black Kite, Blue Rock-Thrush and our first and only experience of tourists for the tour. A mystery phylloscopus, and poor views of a Streaked Shearwater.

Trying to escape the poor weather we drove south of Taipei to Shrmen Reservoir and a last stab at the Black- necklaced Scimitar-Babbler. Persistence paid off with great views, a perfect ending to an excellent tour. We checked into a motel, changed into civvies, and then had a celebratory pre-flight mini-banquet. The group then departed Taiwan at 2315 on their Emirates flight back to London, via Dubai.

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Taiwan Tour Report

Species List

Birds ( = recorded; h = heard only) Common name Scientific name Trip 1 Japanese Quail Coturnix japonica  2 Taiwan Partridge crudigularis  3 Chinese Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola thoracica  4 Swinhoe's Pheasant Lophura swinhoii  5 Mikado Pheasant Syrmaticus mikado  6 Gadwall Anas strepera  7 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope  8 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos  9 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha  10 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata  11 Northern Pintail Anas acuta  12 Garganey Anas querquedula  13 Common Teal Anas crecca  14 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula  15 Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus  16 White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos  17 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus  18 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis  19 Taiwan Barbet Megalaima nuchalis  20 Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis h 21 Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus h 22 Collared Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena  23 Tawny Owl Strix aluco h 24 Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei h 25 Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis  26 Rock Pigeon Columba livia  27 Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis h 28 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis  29 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis  30 Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica  31 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica  32 White-bellied Green Pigeon Treron sieboldii  33 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus  34 Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca  35 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus  36 Common Coot Fulica atra  37 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago  38 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus  39 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata  40 Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis  41 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis  42 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia  43 Nordmann's Greenshank Tringa guttifer  44 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus  45 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola  46 Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus  47 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 

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Taiwan Tour Report

Common name Scientific name Trip 48 Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes  49 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres  50 Sanderling Calidris alba  51 Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis  52 Dunlin Calidris alpina  53 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus  54 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus  55 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta  56 Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva  57 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola  58 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula  59 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius  60 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus  61 Black-tailed Gull Larus crassirostris  62 Herring Gull Larus argentatus  63 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus  64 Saunders's Gull Larus saundersi  65 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica  66 Caspian Tern Sterna caspia  67 Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii  68 Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii  69 Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana  70 Common Tern Sterna hirundo  71 Little Tern Sterna albifrons  72 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus  73 Black Tern Chlidonias niger  74 Osprey Pandion haliaetus  75 Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus  76 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus  77 Black Kite Milvus migrans  78 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela  79 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus  80 Besra Accipiter virgatus  81 Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis  82 Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis  83 Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus  84 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus  85 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis  86 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo  87 Japanese Cormorant Phalacrocorax capillatus  88 Little Egret Egretta garzetta  89 Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra  90 Pied Heron Egretta picata  91 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea  92 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea  93 Great Egret Casmerodius albus  94 Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia  95 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis  96 Little Heron Butorides striatus  97 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax  98 Malayan Night Heron Gorsachius melanolophus  99 Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis 

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Taiwan Tour Report

Common name Scientific name Trip 100 Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus  101 Great Bittern Botaurus stellaris  102 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus  103 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia  104 Black-faced Spoonbill Platalea minor  105 Streaked Shearwater Calonectris leucomelas  106 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus  107 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach  108 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius  109 Taiwan Blue Magpie Urocissa caerulea  110 Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae  111 Black-billed (Eurasian) Magpie Pica pica  112 Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes  113 Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos  114 Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii  115 Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris  116 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus  117 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus  118 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea  119 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius  120 Taiwan Whistling Thrush Myophonus insularis  121 Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma  122 Turdus obscurus  123 Pale Thrush Turdus pallidus  124 Brown-headed Thrush Turdus chrysolaus  125 Dusky (Naumann’s) Thrush Turdus naumanni  126 White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana  127 Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra h 128 Vivid Niltava Niltava vivida  129 Orange-flanked Bush Robin (Red-flanked Bluetail) Tarsiger cyanurus  130 White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus  131 Collared Bush Robin Tarsiger johnstoniae  132 Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis  133 Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus  134 Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus  135 White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucura  136 Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri  137 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea  138 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes  139 Coal Tit Parus ater  140 Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus  141 Yellow Tit Parus holsti  142 Varied Tit Parus varius  143 Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus  144 Plain Martin Riparia paludicola  145 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica  146 Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica  147 Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata  148 Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus  149 House Swift Apus nipalensis  150 Flamecrest Regulus goodfellowi  151 Collared Finchbill Spizixos semitorques 

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Taiwan Tour Report

Common name Scientific name Trip 152 Light-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus sinensis  153 Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus  154 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis h 155 Golden-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis  156 Striated Prinia Prinia criniger  157 Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris  158 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata  159 Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus  160 Manchurian Bush Warbler canturians  161 Oriental Bush Warbler Cettia diphone  162 Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes  163 Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler Cettia acanthizoides  164 Taiwan Bush Warbler Bradypterus alishanensis  165 Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus  166 Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus  167 Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis  168 Rufous-faced Warbler albogularis  169 Rufous-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax ruficeps  170 Rusty Laughingthrush Garrulax poecilorhynchus  171 Hwamei Garrulax canorus  172 White-whiskered Laughingthrush Garrulax morrisonianus  173 Steere's Liocichla Liocichla steerii  174 Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrocnemis  175 Taiwan Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus musicus  176 Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla  177 Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps  178 Taiwan Barwing Actinodura morrisoniana  179 Taiwan Fulvetta Formosana  180 Dusky Fulvetta Alcippe brunnea  181 Grey-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe morrisonia  182 White-eared Sibia Heterophasia auricularis  183 Taiwan Yuhina Yuhina brunneiceps  184 White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca  185 Vinous-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis webbianus  186 Golden Parrotbill Paradoxornis verreauxi  187 Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula  188 Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus  189 Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus  190 Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus  191 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis  192 Red-billed Starling Sturnus sericeus  193 Black-collared Starling Gracupica nigricollis  194 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus  195 White Wagtail Motacilla alba  196 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea  197 Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni  198 White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata  199 Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata  200 Brambling Fringilla montifringilla  201 Vinaceous Rosefinch Carpodacus vinaceus  202 Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis  203 Grey-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythaca 

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Taiwan Tour Report

Common name Scientific name Trip 204 Black-faced Bunting Emberiza spodocephala  205 Grey Bunting Emberiza variabilis  206 Sacred Ibis (Introduced sp.) Threskiornis aethiopicus 

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