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The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

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6 The Best in One Day . Prinsen-Pr l sstr ins e lier straatstr en 0 200 yds g VanVan Oldenbarneveldt-Oldenbarneveldt- nje aa - n - Anjeliersstr.A t i k pleinplein SingelS i r t JORDAANJORDAAN N d e t h 0 200 m n d h c at e a c a tra r s H k a rs ie t u r g nt ch k t la a 7 i a g s e r a l g sg Information r s n EgelantiersstraatE ier e a e t r s a an LeliegLLeliegracht Full-Day Tours Full-Day g l d t a a ge t e Main Post Office s n EgelantiersgrachtE a li e i ra e r NassaukadeN b st g e rachtr FrederikF Hendrik- SingelgrachtS n li a j Le 6 c straat i we ht TweedeT Hugo LijnbaansgrachtL u ht we NieuweNie Leliestraatrac dede Grootstraatede mg Gr Hu loe WesterkerkWesterkerk oot go BloemgrachtB stra at Raadhu NieuweNieuwe at tra iss ms t KerkKerk e r BloemstraatBlo aat l a The Best e t go d ht ch KoninklijkKoninklijk HugoHu deac ra w g t r t t otg en g PaleisPaleis DamDam

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7 The Best in msterdam is a compact city, so this 1-day tour allows you to Asee the major highlights with minimal time spent on public trans- . Pr l sstr ins e lier str en g portation. Wear comfortable shoes and be sure to look both ways as Van Oldenbarneveldt- nje aa - n - A t i k plein S i r t JORDAAN you cross major intersections—bicyclists follow no rules here and d e t h n d h c at e a c a tra they travel at alarming speeds. START: Tram 2 or 5 to Museumplein. One Day r s H k a rs ie t u r g nt ch k t la a i a g s e r a l g sg r s n E r a e tie e s a n r g la L d t a a ge t e s n E a li e i ra e r N b st g ie r ★★★ F S n l a 1 cut down on wait time. Paulus Potter- j Le c Van Gogh Museum. i we ht T L u ht we Nie rac y de ede mg This gem of a museum houses the straat 7 (at Museumplein). 020/ Gr Hu loe Westerkerk oot go B 570-5200. www.vangoghmuseum.nl. stra at Raadhu Nieuwe world’s largest collection of Vincent at tra iss ms t Kerk e r Admission 13 adults, 2.50 kids Blo aat l van Gogh’s work: 200 paintings, 580 e t a go d ht ch Koninklijk Hu ac ra w 13–17. Sat–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri g t drawings, and over 700 letters by r t t otg en g Paleis Dam a

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n a t b e a Ree- Harten- c z r s r r Ro straat s i t tr a t aa o g t a a g u a a r 5, or 12 to Van Baerlestraat. r r s brother, Theo). A four-story building t t o s s n r p q L r g c e V r i e l r S t e i s le u n h t C j a c s e n L z e e a e designed by Gerrit Rietveld houses s r i a D n b g r g ★★ r i d e e a N 2 City Canal Cruise. j i r a r e n i r u K i t a a P z the permanent collection. Although L H S s n e n at r i There’s no better way to discover s Be e k a ren- W w g tr olven- v most of the work here is by van Gogh, s u l o r s stra d at e R a n straat i a Amsterdam than from its canals. la K D c E t N the third floor includes paintings by h h a c t ra Sure, it’s touristy, but I can’t think of g C ds Impressionist artists such as Monet, D o lan a s E a better way to see a large chunk of t Run- Nieuwe Huiden- C a M Spui Seurat, Pissarro, Gauguin, and s straat R Doelen- o a - straat Amsterdam in a short time. You can t N rs o s r r ie k straat t . a n oo Toulouse-Lautrec. An adjacent build- a i L t g in s x h e - c w opt to sit outside (on some boats) if at s s ra e a g ra t g li ing in the shape of an ellipse, t i r s u r e e g a H the weather permits or settle into a k k in r a H Munt- K a a t t e Konings- designed by Japanese “organic” d h r c c e Sing plein comfortable seat indoors. A typical h e ra n plein el g t e g Re architect Kisho Kurokawa and opened ids ra gulie cruise, for instance with the Blue Le c rsdw an al S at h ars in 1999, houses temporary exhibits. v a i a t stra ob an n tr at Boat Company, has the boat loop ac pk g s J e e e These change every 3 or 4 months nn L s t l d e i a L E g a e K K northward on the western canals, e K n L e a r e o g i r and often include some of van Gogh’s r a r z t s r e k e t s c s circle Centraal Station, and loop t e L P rs l e h t L e r r - t e i i a a drawings. Check the museum web- C t e d n z a e j i s s a i back to the departure point along o d e t r s e w t n e d n gra V site for the schedule. @ 3 hr. Arrive Leidse- w g u ls cht s d r e t w a a i e the eastern canals. There’s com- a plein r c N g n a s at 9:45am to beat the crowds; buy r s h ie t s t s t p mentary in English, so you’ll know ij r K n t a er ra a S kstra tickets from the museum’s website to H t a t at aa L t u str ijn om y el b o g nd a rt o t e e V a Ee v S n rs h O n t te W A man studies one of van Gogh’s self-portraits. a s et c s dh W g d erin oud w g a s H er r ars - sk e a str r t o a t c . N r e h g oo . d r l rd t b e in t erstr e . aa b g r z st e s j s c i siu . m h os str S an V V ft a in s oo s g H t e t r l a . g sz tra Rijksmuseum r VONDELPARK eli ns a orn ijke c u . h r C L tr t Wetering- te an rs g ie J te e P t n plantsoen o i d P t e r lus a a d a k u e a Van Gogh l r a P t t t e

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8 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best Touring Amsterdam by canal boat can help you get a feel for the city.

1 what you’re seeing. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Stad- tant King William III to scorn what he houderskade (at Leideseplein). called “that cathedral.” The building y 020/679-1370. www.canal- opened in 1885 to a less-than-enthu- cruises.nl. Tickets 9 adults; 6 kids siastic public reception. Most of the 4–12 (prices may vary slightly from museum is closed for major renova- line to line). Departures every 30 tions until 2010 at the earliest, but a min. 10am–6pm Apr–Sept; every hr. small section of the museum, the 10am–6pm Oct–Mar. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, Philips Wing, remains open through- or 10 to Leidseplein. out the renovation to showcase “the Masterpieces”—the museum’s high- 3 ★★★ Rijksmuseum. Petrus lights. Rembrandt and Vermeer Josephus Hubertus Cuypers lovers, don’t panic: You can still see (1827–1921), the “grandfather of Nightwatch and The Kitchen Maid. In modern Dutch architecture,” fact, you’ll find an entire room filled designed this museum in a monu- with Rembrandts. Three other gal- mental Dutch neo-Renaissance style. leries are dedicated to Vermeer, Cuypers, a Catholic, slipped in more 1 Frans Hals, and Jan Steen. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. than a dab of neo-Gothic, too, caus- Jan Luijkenstraat 1 (at Museumplein). ing the country’s thoroughly Protes-

Van Gogh: 10 Years of Genius

The second floor of the Van Gogh Museum’s permanent exhibit gives you a fascinating chronological insight into van Gogh’s life and work. Although his career as a painter lasted only 10 years—during which time he completed over 900 paintings—you’ll see stunning shifts in style and color as you move from one year and one geo- graphical area to another. For example, compare the dark and somber Potato Eaters from his earliest work in Holland in 1885 to the light and airy View of the Roofs of Paris, completed just a year later. The paintings van Gogh completed in Arles—like his famous Bedroom at Arles (1888)—explode with color. There are several lesser-known paintings from the last year of his life, including the ominous Wheatfield Under Thundercloud, painted shortly before his suicide in 1890. 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:11 PM Page 9

9 The Best in y 020/674-7000. www.rijksmuseum. of her favorite actress, Deanna nl. Admission 10 adults, free for kids Durbin, and view an original copy of under 19. Sat–Thurs 9am–6pm; Fri Anne’s diary. Protective Plexiglas pan- 9am–8:30pm. Closed Jan. 1. Tram: 2 els have been placed over some or 5 to Hobbemastraat. walls, but little else has changed since the Franks lived here. Almost a One Day 4 ★ Pieter Cornelisz Hooft- million visitors a year tour this house; straat. The city’s most upscale shop- be prepared to spend some time ping district lies just a block from the 1 waiting to enter. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Arrive after Rijksmuseum, so those with shopping 4pm to avoid long lines, especially in aspirations should take advantage of summer. Prinsengracht 263 (at West- the opportunity to spend an hour ermarkt). y 020/556-7105. www. strolling the short but oh-so-chic P.C. annefrank.nl. Admission 7.50 adults, Hooftstraat (locals usually shorten the 3.50 kids 10–17. Mid-Mar to June name to “P.C. Hooft”). You’ll find the and 1st 2 weeks in Sept Sun–Fri quintessential jet-set boutiques such 9am–9pm, Sat 9am–10pm; July–Aug as Louis Vuitton, Armani, Dolce & daily 9am–10pm; mid-Sept to mid- Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, and Gucci Mar daily 9am–7pm; Jan 1 & Dec 25 clustered on this primo stretch of real noon–7pm; May 4 9am–7pm; Dec 16 estate. @ 30–60 min. Shops open & 31 9am–5pm. Closed Yom Kippur. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Tram: 2 or 5 to Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Hobbemastraat. 5 ★★ Vondelpark. A 2-minute 7 ★ De Prins. After a long day of stroll from the Rijksmuseum and P.C. sightseeing, relax with the locals at a Hooftstraat brings you to the largest traditional Dutch eetcafé (cafe with and most popular park in Amster- eats). One of my favorites is just dam. Vondelpark is 44 hectares (109 across the canal from the Anne acres) of peace and quiet, a cher- Frankhuis. Choose from a great selec- ished open space speckled with trees tion of Dutch and Belgian beers, and in this terribly dense city. Benches select from an unpretentious but overlook small ponds, walking trails, inventive Continental menu. Prinsen- and bike trails. See also the tour of gracht 124. y 020/624-9382. $. Vondelpark on p 78. @ 30 min. Enter through the gates on Stadhouder- skade, at the corner of Vossiusstraat. The attic where Anne Frank and her fam- Open 24 hr. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to ily lived for 2 years. Leidseplein. 6 ★★★ Anne Frankhuis. It’s about a 30-minute walk from Vondel- park to the Anne Frank House (or you can catch a tram). It was in this typical Amsterdam canal house that a 13- year-old Anne Frank began to keep her famous diary. For 2 years during World War II, the Frank family and other Jewish refugees hid in near- total silence in these rooms, before they were betrayed and Nazi forces raided the house and deported them to concentration camps. You can see where young Anne pinned up photos 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:11 PM Page 10

10 The Best in Two Days H VinkenstraatV a ka aarlemmr doks de in le ester HetH IJ ke m W e BrouwersgrachtB n m t ro s EersteEerste Marnix-Marnix- u tr eerdijkr H I w a d a J plantsoenplantsoen at e at ijk a stra r rle PalmstraatPalm sg m aat r H m WaterpleinWaterplein sstr a a er illem t ch a H D WestWest WillemsstraatW traa t rl ou e Full-Day Tours Full-Day ems e tt R blo m ui u ouds me n ijt GoudsbloemstraatG rst e er t r n k rach aa a deng t d LindengrachtLin NoorderkerkNoorderkerk e JORDAANJORDAAN t CentraalCentraal StationStation 9 h c t a t

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11 The Best in f you followed the “Best in One Day” tour, then you’ve already visited the most popular attractions and gotten an overview of the H I V a ka ar doks de in le ester H city from a canal cruise. Today you’ll dig further into Amsterdam’s ke m W e B n m t ro s history and architecture by visiting some of its monuments, smaller Eerste Marnix- u tr er H I w a d a J plantsoen t e at ijk a a Two Days stra r rle museums, and neighborhoods. You’ll also stroll around the Flower Palm sg m aat r H m Waterplein sstr a a er illem ch a H D Market and take a peek at the infamous Red Light District. START: W raat t r ou e West emst le tt R blo m ui u ouds me n ijt Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to Spui. G rst e er t r n k rach aa a deng t d Lin Noorderkerk e JORDAAN ★★ t Centraal Station 1 Amsterdams Historisch h c a t at r N Museum (Amsterdam Histori- tra h ers g c ie st P l u We r. ri a Stationsplein cal Museum). Starting your day at st - ns r e w ers s e g t eli n tr n h g e nj aa - n n A e t H c i this fascinating museum will give you s d - er a S Centraal

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b e n Many exhibits focus on the 17th-cen- i s V r e a r z e V e u i r t r e a t n s r g - t t e L h i e s N c d A r a e s j h r n i l e tury Gouden Eeuw (Golden Age), g K i d r j c n P z s . H i a r S e t n A t t s z e v i w o s l . r B e d when Amsterdam was the richest city d ere k a n- Z g n an Wolven- a . r l w o u a i E straa K u e t u R O t str O - aat b s in the world. Art lovers will enjoy see- s ie s Ra - nd r am la t N e g - Jo An exhibit hall in the Amsterdam Histori- E ch i rac d ing famous paintings by Dutch mas- a Rusland n ht b e gr - re n- cal Museum. e g es Run- Hui Nieuwe v r tr ters explained in the context of their den- lo u . st Spui b - raat straat Doelen- K l rs n a Waterloo- time and place in history. An intricate oie R straat e o o o w plein L ht - k r c e i Stadhuis scale model from 1677 shows what is gra ilig n G and take in the heavenly 360-degree He eg Muziektheater H w Munt- Binnen now the Royal Palace (stop 5 on this views of Amsterdam. If the weather is t e Konings- ams Waterloo- ch r plein Amst te ra en plein el l tour); some of its outer walls and the g g plein fine, you can grab a seat on the top- se r Re eid a gulie L t ch rsdw - roof have been removed to give you a floor terrace, but the views from the aa t arss Rembrandt- uw tr traat Bla es plein rug bird’s-eye look inside. Lots of hands- floor-to-ceiling windows in the expan- s t b L d A a ei K a ht K K a on exhibits and some interesting n L e e ac m sive lower dining room are equally o g i r gr r z t n r e k e re s t s e s t e L P r l H video displays round out the experi- t s e panoramic. My favorite snack is a L e r r - t e i i a a l e n R d a z i e j R d s s a i e t r e ence. @ 2 hr. Kalverstraat 92, s e w . slathering of goat cheese on toasted t g V e d n ra g Leidse- w g u ls cht d u w a ra ie e l Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, and plein a r c N g i focaccia with fresh tomatoes. The s e r s h ie s t t r t s s t ra p Ke raa Sint-Luciënsteeg 27. y 020/523-1822. salade niçoise is excellent, and fried S rk g t ra a stra s t a t at r rk- a L a e tra ij t K www.ahm.nl. Admission 7 adults, eggs with ham and cheese make a els nb c nd a h o t V W a Ee t 5.25 seniors, 3.50 kids 6–18. S r h Top floor of the t Sing e ns ste W perfect late breakfast. adh el te g d eterin c ouder g r r wars g- a a r ska ra in c str. No Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun and hol- Kalvertoren mall, enter on Singel 457 d c g h g or VONDELPARK e h sc t l derstr t h e . idays 11am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Apr a z and take the elevator to the 3rd floor. n j s i V 30, Dec 25. Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 14, 16, y 020/427-3901. Mon–Wed 10am– 24, or 25 to Spui. 6:30pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun 11am–6:30pm. $$. 2 ★ Café-Brasserie Kalvertoren. Stadhou I love to stop at the Kalvertoren in the ★ derskade 3 Bloemenmarkt (Flower late morning before the lunch rush Market). Since you’re in the heart of 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 12

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11am–5:30pm. Tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25. 4 ★★ Dam. The Dam is the square that’s the epicenter of Am- sterdam. It’s the site of the original dam built across the Amstel River in

Full-Day Tours Full-Day the 13th century, hence the name. It’s not particularly grand—the sur- rounding buildings are a mix of architectural styles, and pedestri- ans, bikes, trams, and cars perpetu- The Best ally jam the surrounding streets. But Gardeners will enjoy choosing from the several of the city’s important mon- large variety of tulip bulbs at Amster- uments can be found here: the dam’s Flower Market. Koninklijk Paleis, Nationaal Monument, and the Nieuwe Amsterdam’s main shopping street, Kerk. Take a walk (beware of those Kalverstraat, you may want to spend trams!) around the Nationaal Monu- some time browsing. When you’ve ment, a white column erected in had your fill, head two streets south 1956 as a national tribute to Dutch to the Singel canal (at Muntplein) citizens who died during the Nazi where you’ll find the Flower Market, occupation during World War II. which partially floats on a row of per- Urns filled with soil from the various manently moored barges, exploding provinces of the Netherlands and its with color and hundreds of flowers. former possessions overseas sit Fresh tulips here cost about the same behind the monument (sculpted by as those sold at the flower stands Dutch artist John Radecker). @ 15 around town, so I don’t recommend min. Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, buying flowers and carrying them 17, 24, or 25 to the Dam. around all day. But it’s a good place to ★ pick up ready-to-travel packets of 5 Koninklijk Paleis (Royal tulip bulbs that slip easily into your Palace). This is still the official resi- backpack or purse. Singel (at Munt- dence of the reigning king or queen plein). Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm, Sun of the Netherlands, though Queen

The Dam. 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 13

13 The Best in Two Days

The Oude Kerk (Old Church).

Beatrix and the other scions of the Church, the Nieuwe Kerk was largely House of Orange prefer to live in The destroyed by fire in the 17th century Hague. The palace (1648–55), origi- (look for the carved gilded ceiling nally designed as Amsterdam’s Town above the choir, which survived). A Hall, has a solid, neoclassical facade. great deal of its original neo-Gothic The building didn’t become a palace grandeur has been restored, and all until 1808. Its interior is filled with Dutch monarchs are inaugurated (not early-19th-century furniture, chande- crowned!) here. Don’t miss the elabo- liers, and marble floors. The most rately carved altar and the great pipe interesting room is the high-ceilinged organ (from about 1645), which is still Burgerzaal (Citizens’ Chamber), used for concerts. In the south where the maps inlaid on the marble transept, the lower-right corner of the floors show Amsterdam as the center stained-glass windows depicts Queen of the world. The palace is closed to Wilhelmina surrounded by courtiers visitors during periods of royal resi- at her inauguration. @ 30 min. Dam dence and state receptions. Note: At (next to the Royal Palace). y 020/ this writing it was closed completely 638-6909. www.nieuwekerk.nl. Admis- for renovations and due to reopen sion varies with different events; free “from 2009.” Until then it can be viewed only from the outside. @ 1 hr. One of the Nieuwe Kerk’s (New Church’s) (when the palace reopens). Dam. elaborate stained-glass windows. y 020/620-4060. www.koninklijkhuis. nl. The following prices and hours were current when the palace was last open and may change. Admission 4.50 adults; 3.60 seniors, students & kids 6–16. Easter holidays & June– Aug daily 11am–5pm; Sept to mid-Dec & mid-Feb to May Tues–Thurs 12:30– 5pm (days & hours vary with little or no notice; check before going). 6 ★ Nieuwe Kerk (New Church). Originally built in the 14th century as the city’s second Catholic 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 14

14 The Royal Household

Although the queen’s official residence is the Royal Palace, she does not own it, nor does she own any of her other residences. The state makes them available to her and allocates a budget of about Full-Day Tours Full-Day 4,000,000 per year to manage her royal household. Her salary is separate. She earns a net income of 750,000 ; the amount is not taxable. She pays taxes only on her private assets—which, though difficult to calculate, are not substantial enough to make her one of The Best richest women in the world, as was once thought.

when there’s no special exhibit. Daily bronze sculpture Belle (2007), depicts 10am–6pm. a hooker standing in a doorway and bears an inscription calling for 7 ★★ Oude Kerk (Old Church). “respect for sexworkers [sic] all over A walk of several blocks east from the the world.” @ 30 min. Oudekerksplein Nieuwe Kerk (into the Red Light Dis- (at Oudezijds Voorburgwal). y 020/ trict), brings you to the late-Gothic, 625-8284 church; 020/689-2565 tower. triple-nave church, which was begun www.oudekerk.nl. Church: Admission in 1250 and completed with the 7 adults, 5 students, 1 kids 5–18. extension of the bell tower in 1566. Mon–Sat 11am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Rembrandt’s wife lies in vault 28K, Tower: Admission 6 ; minimum age which bears the simple inscription 12. Apr–Sept Sat–Sun 1–5pm. Closed “Saskia Juni 1642.” The magnificent Jan 1 & Apr 30. Metro: Nieuwmarkt. 1728 open organ is regularly used for recitals. You can climb the church 8 Red Light District. Amster- tower on a half-hourly guided tour (in dam’s Rosse Buurt (Red Light District) English) for a great view of Old Am- is one of its best-known “attractions,” sterdam and the adjacent Red Light with red lights illuminating minimally District. Just outside the Oude Kerk is clad prostitutes on display behind what’s claimed to be the world’s first glass windows along medieval canals monument to prostitution. The and alleyways. There are also live, hard-core sex shows that leave noth- Old Church’s famous organ. ing to the imagination. Some visitors are repulsed by the sight of flesh for sale; for others it’s just a fascinating window into the world’s oldest pro- fession. The Oude Kerk is in the mid- dle of the Red Light District, so you can simply cross the canal and stroll up and down Oudezijds Achterburg- wal. The very narrow alleyways lead- ing away from the canal are also lined with glass “cages.” It’s not unsafe to meander here. You can skip it and head northwest from the Oude Kerk to Warmoesstraat, a pedestrian-only street lined with bars, funky sex shops (among them a “condomerie”), 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 15

15 The Best in and “coffee shops” where patrons are more likely to order marijuana than coffee. From Oudezijds Achterburg- wal, head back toward the Oude Kerk, cross Oudezijds Voorburgwal and you’ll hit Warmoesstraat. Con- Two Days tinue north along the street and you’ll find yourself facing Centraal Station. @ 15–30 min. Dusk is the best time to visit, though it’s open 24 hr. Metro: Nieuwmarkt. 9 ★★ Jordaan. It feels miles away from the crowded, sometimes seedy A woman in the Red Light District waits center city where you’ve spent most for a customer. of the day, yet the Jordaan is almost adjacent to Centraal Station and a streets full of quaint boutiques and great place to relax after a day of delightful cafes. If you have the time sightseeing. It’s the most hip and and energy, check out the walking unpretentiously elegant neighbor- tour of the Jordaan (p 52). Also hood in all of Amsterdam, its discreet consider staying for dinner (see chap- canals lined with houseboats and its ter 6, “The Best Dining”).

A Behind-the-Scenes Look at the Dutch Sex Industry

The Red Light District in Amsterdam dates back to the 13th cen- tury, when the city emerged as Europe’s leading port and sailors returned from long trips desperate for female companionship. By 1850, with a little over 200,000 residents in the city, there were already over 200 brothels. Now, the sex industry is a $1-billion business in the Netherlands, (a minuscule piece of the $800 billion Dutch economy). To this day, there’s debate within the government as to how to regulate this industry. In recent years, the city has been acting to rein in the sex industry and its links to organized crime, drugs, and human trafficking, by cutting the number of prostitutes’ windows and sex clubs, and encouraging the spread of “normal” life in the Red Light District. Some of the more mundane rules change constantly (such as: Can a prosti- tute claim lingerie on her income tax as a business write-off?), but the health department is very strict with its regulations. There are rules on everything from how hot the water needs to be before a prostitute washes her underwear to how long the women’s nails can be. The women come from all walks of life and for some this is just a second job to earn extra cash. Some are young students, some are housewives. Women that you see in windows in the Red Light District can expect to earn 60 to 150 per customer, depending on what is asked of them. High-class prostitutes (found through an upmarket escort service or luxury brothel) can pull in over 1,000 a night. 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 16

16 The Best in Three Days

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1 Albert Cuypmarkt 5 De Oranjerie 2 Museum Willet-Holthuysen 6 Waterlooplein Flea Market 3 Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) 7 Museum Het Rembrandthuis 4 Hortus Botanicus 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 17

17 The Best in f you’ve followed the “Best in One” and “Best in Two Days” Itours, then you’ve already seen many of the city’s highlights. It’s k - ij jk d . i e W O time to slow down a bit, blend in with the locals, meander around Nieuwe Beurs- r Oude d s o n r a t e e e k s B s e e a Kerk a plein s Kerk d t Z i e w r e d l n the markets, and take in some smaller museums. On this tour you’ll t u l a s r m o - n d a ie a m RED LIGHT e k o a r e k D G Three Days r l N a e n also get a chance to (literally) stop and smell the roses at the relax- t k a DISTRICT il s W a a i Koninklijk n n P w O t r u l d i g a u s n ing Botanical Garden. START: Tram 16, 24, or 25 to Albert Cuypstraat. p r Paleis Dam de gr s S u H

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- i t t e c N d A s j h S t z i l e r a e c n z a s e a e e r t n A t t t e w h w i d s v w r o c l . u u r u k d e a Z g a n i e r e a . r O g t i o u a i N r g K u e u r a R O t e a N O b b s n rg tr s Ra - e u rs r am il b e e gr - J U n rg r. Rusland i ach od ile u st n - t en U b r e b n e g r ke rg Nieuwe v r ee al u lo u st V b Spui b Waterloo- r. n Doelen- K l pe n a a R straat e plein Mr. R t o o w M h - k r Stadhuis u c Wertheim- e i Visser- id a ilig n G e r e g Muziek- plein rs g park H e tr w . Munt- Binnena theater Waterlooplein Plantage M Konings- ms i plein Ams te - dd plein Singel tel l n en w- ere laa Regu lau H n liersd Amstelst B e Hortus Botanicus wars r. ug ieuw straat Rembrandt- br N A Hermitage P plein m t l t t ach an a ch Amsterdam r M t ra s rsg u a a g ng t ze i e r i d re e e e t e e K r H l g s w t U P l u W aa r r Nie str ac e t rk h in r e e z K t s j e i e e t The carefully restored kitchen at the Museum Willet-Holthuysen. e c er e ch R t s V g w a n h h a u r ac M ie p g g e r N n t g e r g e ns s g ru ri a s- B r P r e u e c iz s h Ke s e t l w ★ t t i t eu r e i 1 I love Jordaan and therefore attracts a Ke r aa N a t Albert Cuypmarkt. r a tr ch kst r s a a ra A r a s at - t rg rk s te - Ke t m ch coming to the Albert Cuyp Market in somewhat younger crowd. Along the l A

u t h s c i e Amstelveld ra z t w t g e u the morning, getting lost in the frenzy streets that intersect Albert Cuyp- g e ie Weesper- S h - t N in n a l g r e ra n e c ns st - t l a ri rs a g a P a plein tra of shoppers, and marveling at the straat, you’ll find many cafes where c w ra r N sed Weesperplein s o h c g or ht h l der ec str t tr t e . U i- rows of fresh fish, fruit, vegetables, you can get a quick pick-me-up of z t j ha i Sarp V e- and textiles on display. The street @ 1 hr. Albert Frederiks- Hog strong coffee or tea. s slui e Lijnbaans plein d market lies along Albert Cuypstraat in Cuypstraat, between Van Woustraat gracht ka Weteringsch ts ans ri W the heart of De Pijp, a residential & Ferdinand Bolstraat. Mon–Sat Wetering- au o i ront M b plantsoen To a neighborhood that has a mixed popu- 9am–6pm. Tram: 16 or 24 to Albert u W g t Nicola ru s as W B e lation of young professionals and Cuypstraat. itsenk t ade e r S a tadh Sin A s oud gelgr a e ac R p rska ht m t ethnic minorities, many of the latter . de t V a e r i a ★ v r n s t 2 t Museum Willet-Holthuy- a r s t e a s z n e - t hailing (though it may be several gen- r i h Heineken- v j c s l s t W d d y l a . u sen. This is one of the best-pre- e a r R r t i e plein t e t s o s j r. erations back) from the former Dutch t n k t s u a e s

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lb n w e r E n t A Fli T d s t e e d r e jd n ve w ei aa Go T b B H r u o t u in l - e s C t r Wibautstraat ob a M ac Sarphatipark J a st e er t E tr. s en Ste Fun Facts & Figures s t r . DE PIJP rbaan eintuu C In Amsterdam you’ll find one million permanent residents; more than a million visitors each month; 600,000 flower bulbs in its parks and public gardens; 1,281 bridges (8 of them wooden drawbridges); 600,000 bicycles; 220,000 trees; 260 city trams; 6,800 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century buildings; 1,400 cafes and bars; 755 restaurants; 206 paintings by van Gogh; and 22 paintings by Rembrandt. 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 18

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11am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Apr 30 & Dec 25. Tram: 4, 9, or 14 to Rem- brandtplein. 3 ★ Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge). After leaving the museum, head west toward the Amstel, and

Full-Day Tours Full-Day then south along the riverbank for a quick 15-minute detour to see this fantastic bridge. Legend has it that the Magere Brug was built to make it easier for two sisters (of the Mager The Best family) who lived on opposite sides of the river to visit each other—but mager also means “thin” in Dutch, hence the nickname. The double Skinny Bridge at night. drawbridge was built in 1670 of African azobe wood; it was last reno- renovated several times before its last vated in 1969. Come during the day owner, Louisa Willet-Holthuysen, to see the unusual wood details, or willed the mansion and her fine-art at night to see it twinkling with hun- collection to the city in 1885. Among dreds of lights. If you’re lucky, you the most interesting rooms are a Vic- might see the bridge master raising it torian-era bedroom on the second to allow boats through. @ 15 min. floor, a large reception room with tap- The bridge spans the Amstel btw. estry wall panels, and an 18th-cen- Kerkstraat & Nieuwe Kerkstraat. tury basement kitchen set up to look as though the cook has just stepped 4 ★ = Hortus Botanicus out to go shopping. Be sure to peek (Botanical Garden). On the right out at the impressively restored 18th- (east) bank of the river, go northeast century formal garden. @ 45 min. to this oasis of green, a treasure trove Herengracht 605 (near the Amstel of tropical plants taken from (among River). y 020/523-1822. www. other places) the former Dutch willetholthuysen.nl. Admission 5 colonies of Indonesia, Suriname, and adults, 3.75 seniors, 2.50 kids the Antilles. Established in 1682, this 6–18. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun lovely garden explodes with the

The butterfly house at the Botanical Garden is a big hit with kids. 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/24/08 5:37 PM Page 19

19 The Best in T h r e e

D a y s

Waterlooplein Flea Market.

colors and scents of over 250,000 imaginative sandwiches. If you flowers and 115,000 plants and trees. score one of the outdoor tables, The city’s physicians and apothe- you can listen to the birds chirping caries originally created it as a garden as you eat. Inside Hortus Botanicus, for medicinal herbs. The first coffee y plant in Europe was brought here in Plantage Middenlaan 2A. 020/ 1706 by a Dutch merchant who 625-9021. Daily 11am–4pm. $$. smuggled it out of Ethiopia. The three-climate greenhouse gets pro- 6 ★ Waterlooplein Flea Mar- gressively warmer as you walk ket. Another 10-minute walk brings through it—most of the plants here you to this quintessentially classic come from Australia and South Amsterdam flea market. In its glory, Africa. There’s also an herb garden, a before World War II, you could find desert greenhouse, and a butterfly amazing antiques and maybe even house with free-flying giant butterflies paintings by the masters at bargain that kids will love. @ 1 hr. Plantage y prices. Today you can meander from Middenlaan 2A. 020/625-9021. one merchant’s tent to another,

www.dehortus.nl. Admission 7 hunting for good deals on anything

adults, 3.50 seniors & kids 5–14. from cooking pots to used CDs, Feb–June & Sept–Nov Mon–Fri 9am– leather jackets, watches, and color- 5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm; July–Aug ful sweaters. I come here just to Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am– people-watch. It’s also a good place 7pm; Dec–Jan Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, to try some street food, like french Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. Closed Jan 1 & fries eaten Dutch style—with may- Dec 25. Tram: 9 or 14 to Plantage onnaise. @ 30 min. Waterlooplein. Middenlaan. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Tram: 9 or 14 to Waterloo-plein. 5 ★ De Oranjerie. This cafe, in 7 ★★ Museum Het Rembrandt- Hortus Botanicus, is one of my huis (Rembrandt House absolute favorite places to unwind Museum). Just around the corner and recharge. It’s housed in the from Waterlooplein lies the beauti- beautiful 1875 Oranjerie building, fully preserved house where the designed to shelter citrus trees artist Rembrandt van Rijn lived and in winter. The cafe serves one of worked in the 17th century. He the best apple pies in the city, bought the three-story house in 1639 along with delicious salads and when he was Amsterdam’s most 05_384381-ch01.qxp 12/8/08 10:12 PM Page 20

20 fashionable portrait painter. In this house, Rembrandt’s son Titus was born and his wife Saskia died (you may have seen her tomb at the Oude Kerk yesterday). Due to his extrava- gant lifestyle, Rembrandt was bank- rupt when he left the house in 1658, Full-Day Tours Full-Day and it wasn’t until 1906 that the building was restored as a museum. Today the old house looks the way it did when Rembrandt lived and

The Best worked here—the 17th-century fur- nishings closely match the detailed descriptions Rembrandt gave of his possessions in his 1656 bankruptcy petition. You’ll see the kitchen and maid’s bedroom on the ground floor, and upstairs you’ll find Rembrandt’s bedroom, living room, and the stu- dio, where he painted such works as Rembrandt House Museum. his famous Nightwatch. You can also see his printing press and some 250 Jodenbreestraat 4–6 (at Waterloo- of his etchings and drawings, which plein). y 020/520-0400. www. hang on the walls. @ 1 hr. Arrive rembrandthuis.nl. Admission 8 here 1–2 hr. before closing to avoid adults, 5.50 students, 1.50 kids the crowds. Visit on Wed or week- 6–15. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Jan. 1. ends to see etching demonstrations. Tram: 9 or 14 to Waterlooplein.

Below Sea Level

Amsterdammers have always had an intimate relationship with the sea. All those centuries of listening to the waves beating against the dikes raised against its clear and present danger—how could it be otherwise? But that its solid, timeless buildings stand, and its 750,000 inhabitants live, where waves should by all rights be lap- ping, is a difficult concept for foreigners to grasp. Amsterdam lies up to 5.5m (18 ft.) below mean sea level. That it does not lie beneath the sea is due to stringent protective measures and Dutch engineering skill, which together have kept the city’s col- lective head above water for most of the past 800 years. If the coast defenses that protect Amsterdam should ever be overwhelmed, most of the city would vanish beneath the waves (did you check that insurance policy?). A graphic cross-section of the topography between the North Sea and Amsterdam, which you can buy printed on postcards and posters, shows that Vondelpark would become a lake, the Metro tunnels would be well and truly drowned, and the trams would float away, but if you happened to be standing on top of the Oude Kerk tower you wouldn’t even get your feet wet.