FEBRUARY 2018 l Civiltà DELLATavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA

N. 301 INTERNATIONAL

EDITION

ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE DELLA REPUBBLICA ITALIANA FONDATA NEL 1953 DA ORIO VERGANI

www.accademia1953.it CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA CIVILTÀ 2018 N. 301, FEBRUARY TABLE OF CONTENTS

L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA è stata fondata nel 1953 da Orio Vergani e da Luigi Bertett, Dino Buzzati Traverso, Cesare Chiodi, Giannino Citterio, Ernesto Donà dalle Rose, Michele Guido Franci, Gianni Mazzocchi Bastoni, Arnoldo Mondadori, Attilio Nava, Arturo Orvieto, Severino Pagani, Aldo Passante, Gian Luigi Ponti, Giò Ponti, Dino Villani, Edoardo Visconti di Modrone, con Massimo Alberini e Vincenzo Buonassisi.

FOCUS 5 Chicory, a versatile vegetable (Publio Viola) Civiltà DELLATavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 2 Gualtiero Marchesi and Paul Bocuse are gone 7 Home-delivered food: INTERNATIONAL EDITION (Paolo Petroni) pros and cons February 2018 / n. 301 (Andrea Cesari de Maria)

Editor in chief CULTURE & RESEARCH Paolo Petroni They only get it right Copy Editor 3 Silvia De Lorenzo in Naples (Claudio Novelli) Layout Simona Mongiu

Translator Antonia Fraser Fujinaga

This issue includes articles by Andrea Cesari de Maria, Claudio Novelli, Paolo Petroni, Publio Viola.

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Publisher Accademia Italiana della Cucina Via Napo Torriani 31 - 20124 Milano Tel. 02 66987018 - Fax 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.accademia1953.it

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Monthly Magazine Reg. n. 4049 - 29-5-1956 Tribunale di Milano

On the cover: detail of Luncheon of the Boating Party (1880-1882) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, on display at the Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C.

Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana F CUS Gualtiero Marchesi and Paul Bocuse are gone Yet their principles and many valiant pupils remain.

by Paolo Petroni President of the Academy

ur friend Gualtiero Mar- Gualtiero Marchesi Only days after we lost Gualtiero chesi has left us, aged 87. Marchesi, another eminent Ma- OThe undisputed Master of ster of haute cuisine passed away high-end Italian cuisine, in at the venerable age of he had trained a multitude of top 91: Paul Bocuse, Monsieur Paul, a chefs including Carlo Cracco, Pao- superlative chef, inventor of nou- lo Lopriore, Andrea Berton, Pietro velle cuisine and cuisine du marché, Leemann, Enrico Crippa, Davide Paul Bocuse who trained generations of chefs Oldani and Ernst Knam. He had all over the world. In his (very kit- opened his first restaurant relatively late, in 1977, at the age sch) Auberge in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or near Lyons, he was of 47: occupying a basement in Milan’s Via Bonvesin de la the only chef ever to retain three Michelin stars for 50 years, Riva, it garnered immediate success. I remember that Edoardo and the first chef to receive the Legion d’Honneur, personally Raspelli invited me to try it and I was favourably impressed. delivered in 1975 by President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing for The descent into a subterranean windowless environment whom he invented the celebrated VGE Soup (a black truffle didn’t initially endear the place to me (as I experienced years broth in a cup, covered by a thick layer of puff pastry). It later, going to eat at Carlo Cracco’s restaurant). Nevertheless, remains on the menu at his restaurant. He leaves an empire it was immediately clear that this was a new mode of cuisine, of 700 employees, a prestigious cooking school at Ecully, and brimming with inventiveness and ability, and a new type in Orlando, Tokyo, New York and London. As a of establishment where, for the first time, one might spend young Florence Delegate I had the pleasure of meeting him 200,000 Lire. Sure enough, a Michelin star duly arrived, fol- many years ago at an Academy conference attended by the lowed by another in 1978 and a third in 1985. Marchesi was greats of nouvelle cuisine: Bocuse, Roger Verger and Jacques the first three-starred Italian cook. Subsequently, for various Maximin. I recall a simple, tall, smiling man, a genuine lover reasons, he left this brain-child of his to relocate far from of good food, who preferred bread and salami with friends Milan, to the Albereta hotel in Franciacorta. The relocation over large elaborate dishes. I remember him saying: “for me wasn’t advantageous: a scathing review in The Espresso and there’s no new, or old, or classic cuisine - merely good cuisi- the loss of one star fuelled his unprecedented gesture of ‘re- ne”. To avoid hypocrisy, I’ll admit that the Academy has never turning’ the stars, declining to appear any longer in the ‘red been enthralled by the infinitesimal portions lurking under guide’. Other efforts to market his name - on McDonald’s the cloche, the barely cooked green beans and the exorbitant hamburgers and Surgela ready meals - did not produce the prices of nouvelle cuisine, and in truth we don’t know how desired success. He then returned to Milan, opening his Mar- enthusiastic Bocuse himself was about certain affected ove- chesino restaurant and the Foundation headquartered in the rinterpretations of his philosophy emphasised by the French very birthplace of his career, Via Bonvesin de la Riva, and journalists Henri Gault and Christian Millau; but most of his became rector of the Alma International School of Italian dishes were good and free from excess. As a consummate Cuisine in Colorno, which he founded in 2004. A member gourmet, he knew the strengths of Italian cuisine, observing: of the “Franco Marenghi” Study Centre for several years, he “When your cooks discover the value of your products, nobody had always hosted, and invariably attended, its meetings: a else will stand a chance”. Four years ago he was to deliver an charming raconteur, generous with his advice. Only for the award to Gualtiero Marchesi in Montecatini Terme, but was last meeting did his illness force him to be absent, sending his prevented by Parkinson’s disease. He was the first media-sav- Foundation’s Vice-President Enrico Dandolo in his place. An vy cook, but as a wise thinker he left behind an observation observation of his remains valid and current: “Food is beloved which is particularly valid nowadays: “I lured cooks out of by“The the School stomach. of Athens” But by Raphaelwe must have eyes to admire it, a mind the kitchen, but now they would do well to go back in”. Well to discuss it, a heart to appreciate it...”. said, Monsieur Paul! page 2 CULTURE & RESEARCH They only get it right in Naples Neapolitan pizza, the proper kind, has an inherent, insoluble problem: it cannot travel.

by Claudio Novelli Napoli-Capri Academician

he term ‘pizza’ has long been in- riched and gladdened by pizza, or rather, ternationally understood. From by the strange, circular, vaguely edible T Peru to the Australian beaches, object relentlessly spewed forth by the from the Alps to the Pyramids, from the electric and microwave ovens of indu- Manzanares to the Rhine - no, too close; stry. The world - except Naples. Becau- let’s say from the North Cape to Cape se Neapolitan pizza, and I do mean the Town, ‘pizza’ may be the only Italian proper kind, has an inherent, insoluble word which is universally recognised problem: it doesn’t travel well. Even if and accepted without the need for tran- we have it delivered from a nearby piz- slation, and correctly pronounced zeria which is perhaps only a few hun- everywhere. Somewhat distant run- dred metres away, its taste is irreversibly ners-up are spaghetti and mozzarella, distorted: the soft and elastic dough their spelling unscathed, unlike their transforms into a thin rubbery layer pronunciation. The world has been en- which frustrates even the fiercest mo- lars; the mozzarella threatens to weld itself to the tonsils of the most ravenous eaters; the toma- to glues the slice to the palate. This may have hindered the de- velopment of a ‘true pizza cultu- re’, or better, ‘culture of true piz- za’, meaning, for instance, that the most prestigious crockery sets, no matter how many hun- dreds of pieces they include, re- main bereft of pizza plates, whether triangular for a slice or large and round for entire gene- rously proportioned pizzas; and that we still do not have a defini- tive standard for self-heating plates, which once used coal, then electric resistance, and in our day, induction: these would solve the problem of conversation disinte- grating when pizza arrives at the table through the banal pretext that ‘it must be eaten hot’. Not to mention special cutlery such as pizza knives, with conveniently concave handles allowing the index finger to apply sufficient

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strating to the world that life in Naples is as normal as in any other big city, and that those eager to experience the es- sence of ‘real pizza’ must, if only for that reason alone, journey there and remain for a few days, in a spiritual pilgrimage of sorts, to savour the city and its pizza simultaneously. The Platonic archetype of pizza inhabits a cave, like all the others - but a cave made of Neapolitan tuff, the stuff of pizza ovens. The mother of all pizzas is inseparable from the rocks and people of its homeland. pressure without becoming dislocated, I believe that Neapolitan pizza’s tran- Production in the millions, publicised and short razor-sharp blades like pocket sport difficulties have limited its deve- by televisions and hovering acrobats, scalpels, to avoid dragging all the moz- lopment to a purely urban environment; twirling Chinese pizzas balanced on zarella on to a single bite’s worth of furthermore, crucially, few cities share bamboo stems, or sold by the metre - pizza with an inefficient serrated knife Naples’ good fortune in benefiting from such irrelevancies can never amount to and fluttering one’s elbows like demen- water as delicious as that of the Serino more than simple-minded entertain- ted moths, irritating fellow diners; or springs. ment for children and fools. To be plau- especially wide forks, with five short What has spread, creating many a for- sible, therefore, claims of having tasted tines, more similar perhaps to octopus-fi- tune abroad and especially in America, ‘pizza’ depend on having visited its na- shing hooks than to their noodle-twirling is the name ‘pizza’. And this after the tural habitat, its cradle. One might as cousins, enabling the entire slice to be Neapolitans had been perfecting it for well make the most of one’s visit by adequately harpooned; or heat-resistant two centuries and a half! But now it’s enjoying a coffee, a slice of pastiera cake porcelain finger guards to prevent oily their turn to profit from its name and, and a plate of noodles, and why not, fingers when eating slices with one’s with Confucian fortitude, find the silver discover what mozzarella truly is, or how hands, in the popular manner. Neither lining to its geographic limitation. Fir- a tomato should taste, and so on. Odd have we developed an infrastructure stly, however, precooked or frozen piz- as it may seem, insight into Naples mi- providing tenement landings with com- zas, marketed with unconscionably ght be more accessible through a pizza munal or single-family wood stoves, or purloined images of a caricatured Pul- tasted in its streets and squares than the habit of keeping indoor chickens fed cinella in a presumed Neapolitan alley, through pedantic historians or heavily on leftover pizza crusts, thereby creating must be banished from the metropolitan detailed city guides. ‘Napoletana’ or ‘Margherita’ fowl. area. We must begin by simply demon- Claudio Novelli

ECUMENICAL DINNER 2018

Our group dinner, uniting all Academicians worldwide around one virtual table, will take place on 18 October at 8:30 PM; its theme is “Sweet and savoury cakes in tra- ditional regional cuisine”. The topic, chosen by the “Franco Marenghi” Stu- dy Centre and approved by the President’s Council, honours regional baked specialities, whether stuffed or dry, abundant in Italian home cooking and also amenable to interesting innovations. The Delegates will arran- ge a suitable cultural presentation to illustrate this important theme, and a menu befitting the same.

page 4 CULTURE & RESEARCH Chicory, a versatile vegetable Once considered sacred and even a panacea against illness, it lends itself to many uses in the kitchen, whether cooked or raw.

by Publio Viola Roma Appia Delegate

hicory is a vegetable found all ments. Its curative properties were also over the world, especially in . appreciated more recently, such that in C Its name apparently derives from the Middle Ages it was even employed the Greek kikhorion and entybon (en- as an anti-aphrodisiac (to calm carnal dive). The difficulty in identifying its urges), and we read that the Renais- precise name stems from the fact that sance herbalist Castore Durante advised since antiquity it was known in manifold women to apply its juice to their bosom ways; it was definitively designated as to make it firmer. Last but not least, its Cichorium intybus by the Swedish bo- intensely blue composite flowers have tanist Linnaeus in his Species Plantarum long been symbolically associated with in 1753. temperance and frugality. It is a perennial herbaceous plant be- Readily recognisable for its indigo longing to the aster (Asteraceae) family, flowers, chicory grows wild in uncul- with brightly coloured flowers and a tivated rural areas and on the edges of maximum height of a metre. The ancient crop fields, but can also be planted in Egyptians considered it sacred, and also vegetable gardens. The species has a panacea against illnesses, and as such many varieties, which, though differing it is mentioned in the Ebers papyrus in appearance, invariably have taproots (1500 BC), in the works of Pliny, who and dentate, jagged leaves. More spe- wrote “In Aegypto Cichoriam vocant” cifically, there are three categories of (what they call chicory in Egypt), and chicory according to leaf shape: bitter in the treatises of the Greek physician and crinkly-leafed varieties, cultivated Galen. In pharaonic Egypt it was com- as winter vegetables (e.g. the catalogna bined with vinegar to combat headaches or foliusum variety); narrow-leafed and with wine to alleviate urinary ail- cultivars (e.g Belgian chicory), used

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primarily in salad; and broad-leafed recipes, including pan-fried chicory, constipation and irritable bowel. Thou- cultivars (e.g. Treviso red-leafed chi- fava bean and chicory puree, and rice gh side effects are unlikely, these are cory), consumed both raw and cooked. and chicory flan. Noteworthy is sautéed probably best avoided by erosive ga- Additionally there are root chicories Roman-style chicory (cicoria ripassata), stritis patients, because they stimulate (e.g. sativum), grumolo verde rosettes, a side dish easily and quickly prepared hydrochloric acid secretion. Finally, white Chioggia chicory, and puntarel- by pan-frying chicory leaves with gar- recent research suggests that chicory le di Galatina, grown in south-central lic, oil and spicy peppers. contains various antioxidant flavonoids Italy. Chicory roots are also important: than- which inhibit the formation of free ra- Leaves used for food are gathered ks to their chicoric acid, they can be dicals. between March and November, with a toasted and processed into a coffee Besides the aforementioned nutritional hiatus during the summer flowering substitute, much used in certain histo- properties, there are interesting myths season. They are cut at the base; then rical periods such as the Napoleonic regarding chicory: one tells how the the best leaves are placed in a wicker period in France and the aftermath of Sun proposed marriage one day to a basket wrapped in a damp cloth to pre- the Second World War in Italy. beautiful woman called Domna Floridor serve their aromas. Chicory is low-ca- If once considered a panacea for many (Flower Lady), who haughtily refused. lorie (with a 20-25% caloric yield), but ailments, it is still credited with detoxi- The indignant Sun transformed her into reasonably rich in vitamins and minerals fying and protective properties, espe- a chicory flower condemned to open at as well as chicoric acid, which produces cially beneficial to the liver and bile sunrise and gaze sunwards until it clo- its characteristic bitterness. Foodwise, ducts. It is additionally credited with sed at sunset. Chicory is consequently the preferred use of chicory is raw, in aiding digestion by helping the gall called sponsa solis (bride of the sun), mixed salads, alongside radicchio, dan- bladder to empty itself. Finally, it con- that is, a herb consecrated to the sun. delion or lettuce, but it can also be co- tains inulin, a polysaccharide which Finally, since time immemorial chicory oked and eaten as a vegetable accom- favours intestinal activity and combats has been held capable, if used correct- paniment to other salad greens, in soups drowsiness and constipation. ly, of allowing a maiden to win the man or in other dishes. It is an interesting Today, herbalists use chicory extracts she loves. ingredient, and as such figures in many considered useful against flatulence, Publio Viola

THE ACADEMY SILVER PLATE An elegant silver dish engraved with the Academy logo. This symbolic object may be presented to restaurants that display exceptional service, cuisine and hospitality. Delegates may contact the Milan Headquarters ([email protected]) for more information and orders.

page 6 CULTURE & RESEARCH Home-delivered food: pros and cons , however ‘convenient’, robs us of many pleasures of the table.

by Andrea Cesari de Maria Milano Duomo Delegate

tions? If they become cooked heaven knows where or how increasingly vestigial in long ago, which has traversed the city the family kitchen, the streets on the shoulders of a strapping restaurant will remain young pedal-pusher, undergoing many the last bastion of swift- transformations en route which a che- ly vanishing customs. But mist could explain far better than I can? if even the restaurant To have some idea of the result, just loses its appeal, further think of the distinctive flavour which decreasing the element a carryout pizza acquires from its car- of dialogue and human dboard container. Great chefs have contact and replacing it been feted, and commanded commen- with an impersonal web- surate prices, for their ‘express cuisine’, site for perusal, selection made to order for each customer, tre- and ordering followed by ated as unique and irreplaceable; how delivery of pre-cooked to reconcile this concept with food victuals, we risk losing which exits the kitchen and piggybacks n recent years a phenomenon has the history and narration accom- towards the diner as quickly as possi- been taking shape which I believe panying food, instead favouring trends ble? What will become of the veritable I we will have to take more and more and ephemeral fashions which have works of art created by decorative pla- into account in the near future. Alre- nothing whatsoever to do with what ting, so beautiful that we often felt ady available in eleven Italian cities, we once were and may never be again. sorry to eat them, if our cyclist encoun- home-delivered cuisine is rapidly gai- The restaurant is a gathering place ters one of the many potholes infesting ning followers. The protocol is very which is hard to replicate, where we our streets? What will end up on the simple: we order online and swiftly often spruce ourselves up, meet people, unfortunate customer’s table? And will receive the food selected from the form or deepen friendships, encounter spaghetti al dente, on which we all cut menu on offer. This is a flexible and new experiences, and learn something our teeth, vanish from the menu, or convenient system because it liberates new, even just by seeing a dish on its must we request athletic delivery spe- us from worrying about shopping, co- way to another table or listening to the eds to ensure that our food arrives oking and, since the dishes are dispo- staff’s descriptions and food sugge- before it overcooks? If Orio Vergani, sable, washing up. However, this me- stions. None of this happens in our own in the now-distant year 1953, famou- chanism, adopted by such companies dining rooms: will we eventually inha- sly bewailed the imminent end of our as and Foodora among bit a dark world, as prefigured years cuisine, imagine what his reactions others, risks jeopardising some of our ago in Blade Runner? My generation would be to current conditions. Pro- best-loved food habits. Already home has passed through vastly different gress must always be welcomed, or we cooking keeps declining, as demon- worlds with lightning speed: for years would be stuck in the status quo at the strated by statistics regarding time we enjoyed the mythical ‘boiled meat time of Apicius; but it should be asses- spent in the kitchen gathered from the cart’, which we still miss, with its lid sed and introduced judiciously, or we post-war period until now, due to chan- which lifted to reveal piping-hot won- risk throwing out the baby with the ged lifestyles. If at noon we hurriedly ders, and the waiter serving us preci- bath water, as has often sadly occurred. select a sandwich and in the evening sely the piece of tongue or head which Not for nothing did Ennio Flaiano wri- we choose the most convenient solu- we requested. And now must we resi- te: “Even progress, becoming older and tion, what will become of our tradi- gn ourselves to encountering food wiser, voted no”.

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