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1 The Best of

Chances are that even if you’ve never set foot in Toronto, you’ve seen the city a hundred times over. Known for the past decade as “Hollywood North,” Toronto has stood in for international centers from European capitals to New York—but rarely does it play itself. Self-deprecating Torontonians embody a paradox: Proud of their city’s architectural, cultural, and culinary charms, they are unsure whether it’s all up to international snuff. After spending a single afternoon wandering around Toronto, you might wonder why this is a question at all. The sprawling city boasts lush parks, renowned architecture, and excellent galleries. There’s no shortage of skyscrap- ers, particularly in the downtown core. Still, many visitors marvel at the num- ber of Torontonians who live in houses on tree-lined boulevards that are a walk or a bike ride away from work. Out-of-towners can see the fun side of the place, but Torontonians aren’t so sure. They recall the stuffiness of the city’s past. Often called “Toronto the Good,” it was a town where you could walk down any street in safety, but you couldn’t get a drink on Sunday. Then a funny thing happened on the way through the 1970s. Canada loos- ened its immigration policies and welcomed waves of Italians, Greeks, Chinese, Vietnamese, Jamaicans, Indians, Somalians, and others, many of whom settled in Toronto. Political unrest in Quebec drove out Anglophones, many into the waiting arms of Toronto. The city’s economy flourished, which in turn gave its cultural side a boost. Natives and visitors alike enjoy the benefits of this rich cultural mosaic. More than 5,000 restaurants are scattered across the city, serving everything from sim- ple Greek souvlaki to Asian-accented fusion cuisine. Festivals such as and Caravan draw tremendous crowds to celebrate heritage through music and dance. Its newfound cosmopolitanism has made Toronto a key player on the arts scene, too. The Toronto International Film Festival in September and the Inter- national Festival of Authors in October draw top stars of the movie and pub- lishing worlds. The theater scene rivals London’s and New York’s. Toronto now ranks at or near the top of any international urban quality-of- life study. The city has accomplished something rare, expanding and developing its daring side while holding on to its traditional strengths. It’s a great place to visit, but watch out: You might just end up wanting to live here.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto Experiences • Dining Alfresco on One of the you can’t beat ’em, join ’em. See City’s Endless Patios: Any piece chapter 5. of sidewalk might be appropriated • Cafe Hopping at Trattorias in for open-air dining at any time. If Little Italy: Several magazines c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TORONTO

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FROMMER’S FAVORITE TORONTO EXPERIENCES 5

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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TORONTO

have zeroed in on this neighbor- • Taking in a Game at SkyDome or hood as one of the haute-est spots the Air Canada Centre: SkyDome in North America. Trendy, yes, is home base for the Toronto Blue but it’s also a fun area for stopping Jays baseball team. The Air Canada by the many cafes and wine bars, Centre is where the Maple Leafs and for dining on outstanding (hockey) and the Raptors (basket- food. See chapter 5. ball) play. Torontonians love their • Staying Up Until the Wee Hours teams and come out to support in Greek Tavernas: No one’s say- them in droves. See p. 140. ing that Toronto is a city that • Wandering Through the never sleeps, but you can make : In case you need such a claim about lively-at-all- more proof that Toronto is a very hours Greektown. At 4am, upbeat green city, it has a working farm in bouzouki music can still be heard its midst. Cows, sheep, pigs, goats, along the Danforth. See chapter 5. and other critters call it home. See • Hanging Out at Harbourfront p. 144. Centre: There’s always something • Treasure Hunting for Vintage going on—the International Festi- Clothing in : val of Authors, art exhibits, cul- How can one small area have a tural celebrations, and the Toronto dozen vintage-clothing vendors? Music Garden, just to name a few. And how do they keep prices low See p. 180 and quality good? Haphazard • Picnicking on Centre Island: Kensington Market is a joy for Hop on the ferry and escape to the bargain hunters. See “Walking islands. From across the water, Tour: Chinatown & Kensington you’ll see the city in a whole new Market” in chapter 7 and p. 192 light. See “The ” in chapter 8. on p. 44. • Shopping (or Window-Shopping) • Swinging from the Henry in Chic Yorkville. Once home to Moore Sculptures at the Art the city’s bohemian community, Gallery of Ontario: The British Yorkville is an enclave of exclusive sculptor Henry Moore so loved shops, art galleries, and upscale Toronto that he bestowed his cafes. See “Great Shopping Areas” greatest works on this museum. in chapter 8. Kids have been known to swing • Checking Out Local Theater: from the gigantic works in front Toronto likes its blockbuster of the gallery. See p. 124. shows: Show Boat and Ragtime got • Viewing the World from the Top their start here before heading to of the CN Tower: Most Toronto Broadway. Offerings from the natives say they’ve never gone to CanStage Company, the Tarragon the top of their most famous land- Theatre, and the Lorraine Kimsa mark. It’s a pity, because the view Theatre for Young People are con- is inspiring. On any reasonably sistently excellent, too. See “The clear day, you can see Niagara Performing Arts” in chapter 9. Falls. See p. 125. • Busting a Gut at a Comedy Club. • Exploring the Wonders of the Maybe it’s something in the water: World at the Ontario Science Toronto has produced more than Centre: You don’t have to be a tyke its share of top-notch comedians, to appreciate the amazing interac- including the shagadelic Mike tive displays about biology, ecology, Myers, Jim Carrey, Dan Aykroyd, and technology. See p. 128. and the late John Candy. Check c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 7

BEST HOTEL BETS 7

Impressions In the eyes of the rest of the country Toronto is a kind of combination Sodom and Mecca. —Pierre Berton (1961)

out local talent or international of the Shaw Festival; it’s less than a stand-up stars at one of the many half-hour drive away from Niagara comedy clubs. See “The Club & Falls. Picturesque Stratford has Music Scene” in chapter 9. its own theater festival. See “Strat- • Day-Tripping for Festivals and ford” and “Niagara-on-the-Lake & Falls: Niagara-on-the-Lake is Niagara Falls” in chapter 10. Ontario’s wine country, and home

2 Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: The has it all: a beautifully renovated (gloved) hands-down winner is Le Art Deco building, top-notch serv- Royal Meridien King Edward, ice, and one of the best views in the 37 King St. E. (& 800/543- city from the rooftop terrace 4300), which was built in 1903 lounge. This is the place to relax and in the past few years has been and let yourself be pampered. See restored to its former glory. The p. 69. lobby, with its pink marble • Best for Families: The Delta columns and ornate frescoes, has Chelsea, 33 Gerrard St. W. seen the crème de la crème of soci- (& 800/243-5732), is a longtime ety trot through over the years. In family favorite, and in 2003 it fur- the 1960s, the Beatles holed up in ther enhanced its standing by the King Eddy while 3,000 fans introducing the Family Fun Zone, stormed the lobby. See p. 66. which includes a playroom with • Best for a Stylish Stay: The live bunnies and fish, a video Hôtel Le Germain, 30 Mercer arcade, and a waterslide. It also St. (& 866/345-9501), one of offers children’s programs, a day- Toronto’s new boutique hotels, is care center, and kid-friendly a stunner, with its dramatic design restaurants. There are two pools, and lots of artwork in public and one for tykes and one for adults, private spaces alike (even the ele- and many rooms have refrigera- vators!). See p. 55. tors or kitchenettes. See p. 64. • Best for Tech-Lovers: The SoHo • Best for Business Travelers: The Metropolitan Hotel, 318 Welling- Metropolitan Hotel, 108 Chest- ton St. W. (& 800/668-6600), nut St. (& 416/977-5000), is just makes the best use of technology a few minutes from the Financial I’ve ever seen at a hotel. It’s as if the District, and its amenities are designers compiled a list of all of competitive with those of its the most frustrating aspects about pricier competitors. Features staying in a hotel room and include a 24-hour business center resolved to fix them. And they suc- and in-room amenities such as ceeded! See p. 56. fax/modem hookups, large work • Best for a Romantic Rendezvous: desks, and cordless two-line The Park Hyatt Toronto, 4 phones. The restaurants, Hemi- Avenue Rd. (& 800/233-1234), spheres and Lai Wah Heen, are c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TORONTO

favorite sites for business lunches. 4 Avenue Rd. (& 800/233-1234; See p. 58. p. 69). • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: • Best Hotel Dining: This is a three- Given the location and amenities, way tie: The Hilton Toronto’s very it’s hard to beat the Delta Chelsea, grand dining room, Tundra 33 Gerrard St. W. (& 800/243- (& 416/860-6800; p. 86), is a 5732), for price. Close to the treat for all the senses. But so are Eaton Centre, Chinatown, and the the ’s new Financial District, double rooms offering, Epic (& 416/860-6949; start at C$129 (US$90) per night. p. 88), and the Park Hyatt’s restau- See p. 64. rant, Annona (& 416/924-5471; • Best Budget Accommodations: p. 101). Victoria University, 140 Charles • Best Gay-Friendly Hotel: Every- St. W. (& 416/585-4524), rents one comes to the Howard Johnson out its student residences from Selby Hotel & Suites, 592 Sher- mid-May to late August. It’s in an bourne St. (& 800/387-4788). In excellent location, with simple a Victorian building in a predomi- rooms and great facilities, includ- nantly gay neighborhood, this hotel ing tennis courts and a pool. All draws gay, lesbian, and straight this for C$66 (US$46) a night. travelers with Belle Epoque style See p. 71. and individually decorated rooms. • Best Service: At The Sutton Place See p. 70. Hotel, 955 Bay St. (& 800/268- • Best for Travelers with Disabili- 3790), ask and you shall receive. ties: The Fairmont Royal York, The high staff-to-guest ratio means 100 Front St. W. (& 800/441- that there’s always someone around 1414), looks monolithic but it to do your bidding. See p. 70. You pays a lot of attention to accessi- also won’t lack attention at the bility. The adaptations accommo- Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, date wheelchair users, the visually 21 Avenue Rd. (& 800/268-6282; impaired, and the hearing p. 68), or the Park Hyatt Toronto, impaired. See p. 58.

3 Best Dining Bets • Best New Restaurant: 2003 saw Sake Bar, 668 King St. W. (& 416/ some stiff competition for the title, 860-0606), is lively every night. with lots of new restaurants open- The mix of the glamorous dining ing for business, but the winner is room, fine sushi, and a cool crowd Brassaii, 461 King St. W. (& 416/ gives the restaurant its edge. See 598-4730), a stylish bistro with p. 87. excellent food, top-notch service, • Best for a Romantic Dinner: I’m and wallet-friendly prices. See the first to admit that I’m biased, p. 90. but the Rosewater Supper Club, • Best for a Business Lunch: A 19 Toronto St. (& 416/214-5888), sure bet is Restaurant & is my idea of perfect romance (this Bar, in the Toronto Dominion restaurant was where my husband Tower, 66 Wellington St. W. proposed to me). Relax and let the (& 416/364-0054), a see-and-be- pampering begin. See p. 97. seen spot for local and visiting • Best Decor: Monsoon, 100 Sim- power brokers. See p. 85. coe St. (& 416/979-7172), has an • Best for a Celebration: The atmos- award-winning interior design by phere at Blowfish Restaurant & Toronto firm Yabu Pushelberg. c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 9

BEST DINING BETS 9

The brown-on-black setting steals Australian vintages by the glass; attention from the impressive upstairs, the dining room boasts kitchen. See p. 86. Upstart Rain, more than 600 bottles from 19 Mercer St. (& 416/599-7246), around the world. Prices range is easy on the eye, but good luck from C$32 (US$22) into four fig- getting in—even pop diva Nelly ures. See p. 110. Furtado couldn’t do it. See p. 89. • Best Bistro: Bistros often do well • Best View: Forget the obvious with comfort foods, but Biff’s, choice (360 Revolving Restau- 4 Front St. E. (& 416/860-0086), rant, in the CN Tower, 301 Front serves up modern takes on classic St. W.; p. 86). Instead, dine at dishes; its setting goes beyond Scaramouche, 1 Benvenuto Place comfortable to luxury. See p. 96. (& 416/961-8011), which has a • Best Italian: Il Posto Nuovo, 148 far more elegant perspective. Its Yorkville Ave. (& 416/968-0469), floor-to-ceiling windows overlook serves fine modern Italian cuisine the downtown skyline. See p. 111. in elegant digs—and the efficient, • Best Wine List: The international knowledgeable wait staff makes selection Centro, 2472 Yonge St. everyone feel at home. See p. 101. (& 416/483-2211), is hard to • Best Portuguese: Standing alone beat. The basement is a wine on Italian-dominated College bar with Italian, Californian, and Street, Chiado, 484 College St.

The Best of Toronto Online

How did anyone ever plan a trip without the help of the Internet? It’s hard to imagine now, given the wealth of information available online. But not all sites are created equal, so before you get ensnared in the Web, point and click on these gems. • Toronto.com (www.toronto.com) boasts articles on arts and culture as well as a hotel directory, restaurant reviews, community news, and events listings. One of its best features is its extensive use of photographs. • City of Toronto (www.city.toronto.on.ca) is the official municipal guide to Toronto, a straightforward source of practical information peppered with profiles of fun places to visit and announcements of festivals, free concerts, kids’ events, and more. • Girl Talk Toronto: A Mini City Guide (www.journeywoman.com/ girltalk/toronto.html) runs the gamut from the serious (transit safety) to the frivolously fun (the best places to shop for shoes). This user- friendly site also highlights arty spots, off-the-beaten-path attrac- tions, and the best places for brunch, all from a female perspective. • Green Tourism Association (www.greentourism.on.ca) is an excellent resource for eco-friendly travelers. There’s information about car-free transportation, outdoor activities and sports, and healthy dining. • Toronto Life (www.torontolife.com) has extensive restaurant list- ings, as well as links for events, activities, and nightlife. • (www.thestar.com) includes everything from theater and concert reviews to local news and weather conditions. c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 10

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(& 416/538-1910), serves modern It also serves great martinis and Portuguese cuisine. The seafood is desserts, but what everyone comes flown in daily. See p. 88. here for is the meat. See p. 84. • Best Greek: The cooking at Pan • Best Pizza: A cubbyhole-size on the Danforth, 516 Danforth eatery in midtown, Serra, 378 Ave. (& 416/466-8158), will Bloor St. W. (& 416/922-6999), convince you that Pan was really makes thin-crust pizzas laden with the god of food. This is Greek gourmet ingredients. See p. 107. cuisine updated with panache; see • Best Sushi: Hiro Sushi, 171 King p. 108. Watch out for the mid- St. E. (& 416/304-0550). Chef town restaurant Gus (1033 Bay Hiro Yoshida offers up classically St.; & 416/923-8159) as a chal- prepared sushi as well as a few lenger; see p. 103. unique specialties; see p. 97. But • Best Out-of-Towner: Talk about there is competition from Blow- catching on like wildfire—the fish Restaurant & Sake Bar, 668 new restaurant Wildfire, at Taboo King St. W. (& 416/860-0606); Resort up in the Muskoka region see p. 87. (& 705/687-2233), is a work of • Best Afternoon Tea: A very tough art. Give yourself over to the call. Afternoon tea in the lobby genius chef by having one of the lounge at the Le Royal Meridien four-, five-, or 11-course tasting King Edward Hotel, 37 King St. menus. See p. 246. E. (& 416/863-3131), has been • Best People-Watching: Across called the most authentic English from the Sutton Place Hotel is tea, and it is divine; see p. 66. But Bistro 990, 990 Bay St. (& 416/ I am partial to the phenomenal 921-9990), where everyone in lavender-and-rose-infused Rooi- Toronto but me has made a bos Provence tea that you’ll find at celebrity sighting. (I’m too busy Annona at the Park Hyatt, enjoying the delicious food.) See 4 Avenue Rd. (& 416/924-5471). p. 100. See p. 101. • Best Value: Once again, first prize • Best Alfresco Dining: The lovely to Brassaii, 461 King St. W. patio at Biff’s, 4 Front St. E. (& 416/598-4730), a stylish new (& 416/860-0086), is just about bistro that’s got it all. An honor- perfect. Set well back from the able mention goes to Messis, 97 street, it affords terrific people- Harbord St. (& 416/920-2186), watching possibilities. See p. 96. which has been a training ground • Best If You Have Only One for some of the best chefs in Meal in Toronto and Price Is No Toronto. See p. 90 and 104. Object: While I hate to go along • Best for Kids: Millie’s Bistro, with the crowd, the common wis- 1980 Avenue Rd. (& 416/481- dom is on the money with North 1247), is a family favorite with 44, 2537 Yonge St. (& 416/487- sunny dining rooms and a special 4897). Great food, great staff, children’s menu; see p. 112. A great setting. See p. 111. more casual choice would be the • Best If You Have Only One Meal deli-style Shopsy’s (33 Yonge St.; in Toronto and Price Is an & 416/365-3333); see p. 100. Object: Look no further than • Best Steak House: Barberian’s, Brassaii, 461 King St. W. (& 416/ 7 Elm St. (& 416/597-0335), has 598-4730). For all of the reasons boosted the level of protein in listed above in “Best New Restau- Torontonians’ diets since 1959. rant.” See p. 90. c 540602 Ch01.qxd 11/4/03 9:57 AM Page 11

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• Best Chinese: Lai Wah Heen, at trout? This and other glamorous the Metropolitan Hotel, 110 offerings are available at Agora, at Chestnut St. (& 416/977-9899), the , 317 serves deluxe Cantonese and Dundas St. W. (& 416/977-0414). Szechwan specialties, including a See p. 87. variety of shark’s fin soups and • Best Desserts: Dufflet Rosenberg abalone dishes. It features several bakes up a storm at Dufflet Pas- good-value prix-fixe specials at tries, 787 Queen St. W. (& 416/ lunch and dinner. See p. 89. 504-2870). You’ll find her name • Best Brunch: Who needs bacon on the dessert list at some of the and eggs when you can have torta city’s top restaurants. See “Sweet rustica with layers of ricotta, moz- Treats: Toronto’s Dessert Cafes” zarella, leeks, peas, and smoked on p. 216.