the British tour for the last three Excel and Mello boards, but its really years. I think my first year doing the hard to get a proper sponsor who is BPSA (British Professional going to help you financially all the Association) tour, I got twelfth overall, way through your year. It’s a struggle, then last year I broke my foot so I but hopefully it will change after this messed up the whole year, and this year because I’ve just got back into it year I’m not doing too well because after breaking my foot. I messed up the waves have been pretty crap for everything last year because I missed the whole thing. I think it needs to be all the competitions and fell out of all over three foot for me to start getting the magazines and stuff for a whole through heats all the time. year, so I need to build back up on it Freeride: Did you quit school early to this year. focus on your surfing? Freeride: You said you are sponsored Cain: Kinda, yeah, my parents were by Mellow Boards. What happened cool about that. I did my junior cert, to MMY who used to sponsor your and during transition year, which is boards? not like proper school anyway, I ended Cain: MMY don’t exist any more, they up surfing all the time; I hardly went are now called Mellow Boards. It is in to school. I was going away a lot and one of the same guys running it and when I came back I was weeks behind the boards are going really good. JP everyone, so mum and dad made the is actually shaping the boards, and choice and said to leave and really give they are coming out with some of the surfing a good go. best boards we’ve ever had. I’ve had Freeride: So where are you at now with some DHD’s from OZ, and the Mellow your surfing? boards are coming out as good as them, Cain: At the moment I’m just trying if not better. to recover my tracks from last year. Freeride: How is your foot now? I had a good sponsor which was Cain: It’s fine. It took absolutely ages Saltrock, but the whole company sort to get better though. I broke it last of fell through. They came into serious October and I was out of the water money bothers and everyone on the until February. It took until summer team was dropped. That kind of ruined before I felt 100 percent better. everyone’s careers, so I’m still trying to Freeride: Can you use Mick Fanning’s pick up a proper sponsor. I don’t have example of coming back from serious a full sponsor yet. I have Oakley and injury as inspiration? Cain Kilcullen launching his caree as a profesional surfer.

Cain Kilcullen talks to Freeride THE MARK OF about competition, coming back from injury, and what it takes to make it as a profesional surfer in CAIN . Freeride: Hi Cain, can you tell me weekends. I kept pissing my dad off competitions? a little about your surfing history asking him to drive me down to watch Cain: Well, I got on the Irish team by growing up in ? them at Easkey! So I started off surfing doing the junior competi- Cain: I started , as here in Enniscrone during the summer tions every year. everyone does when they are younger, I with my friends; I didn’t really keep Freeride: And surfing has been your was probably seven or eight, and every at it full on until I was about thirteen main focus ever since? summer I would bodyboard. I live right when I really started getting into it Cain: Yeah, well I’ve been trying to here by the , about twenty steps and started doing competitions…that’s give it a go as much as I can. I started away from the water, so I started off how it sort of started. I’m 21 now, so off going away with the Irish team, bodyboarding, then my dad got me a I started surfing about thirteen years going over to England for a couple of when I was about ten and ago in 1994, and started doing compe- the junior events, and then built up I just started surfing by going down titions in about 1999. over the last few years doing the pro Photos this spread: Surf Snaps and watching people at Easkey on the Freeride: How well did you do in the juniors in Europe, and I’ve been doing Cain relaxing at home.

FREERIDE  FREERIDE  Cain: Yeah, I definitely notice that wrap up the BPSA tour there and have gets dark in the evenings now at about being out of the water makes you feel a big dinner and a prize giving, so it’s a five, so I wont be missing out on any way keener and you just want to get fun weekend as well as a contest. surfing. back into it again. When you are always Freeride: How many Irish guys are Freeride: Is the Irish Surfing surfing as much as I was… like, I didn’t there on the BPSA tour? Association much support to you as a stop from when I was twelve… you can Cain: Well it’s just me and Fergal surfer trying to make it? get stuck in a rut, so the injury did help Smith. The other Irish guys have done Cain: Well, the ISA is still Growing. me to realize how fun surfing is, and one or two, but this year it’s just me They’re a good help to all the up and definitely made me want to try harder. and Fergal. Fergal has had the year! coming surfers and it’s good to see the Freeride: Tell me about your trip to Sri I’ve never seen anyone have such a team holding in. “Dennys” sponsors Lanka a few years ago. good year. I think he’s only done four the team, but at the moment we need Cain: The BPSA have a Champion of or five contests, but his worst result is to get more support and I think people

Champions event, where they pay a semifinal or something, so he is way, tend to overlook surfing. I think the Photo Sequence: Surf Snaps for the top 16 surfers to compete in way up. He won Thurso, the Scottish government is just pumping money Cain Practacing backside barell technique. someplace nice. Two years ago it was competition, and no Irish guy has ever into everything else like GAA. If they in Sri Lanka. They didn’t have one last won a BPSA event, ever. I’ve got to a put even a tiny amount of that towards from , Mikey Morgan from that helps a lot. It keeps them keen, Cain: It’s a pretty huge leap. I think year, but there’s talk of them having final, but before that I think no one had surfing, you would definitely be seeing , and people forget about and it keeps them getting good gear! there are about 4 or 5 guys who do the one this year in Barbados for the top 16 even got to a final, so Fergal is killing a lot better results from the Irish team. everyone from down in Tramore in Freeride: Are there more international ‘QS as well, but the standard of the surfers again, so my aim for this year is it. I don’t know what rank he is at the The ISA are trying its just that they . There are surfers sponsors coming in? BPSA at the moment is pretty huge to get into the top sixteen. There’s one moment, but he is definitely in the top need more support. down there that I still think are the Cain: Definitely. There’s just so much too. There are a lot of international more contest left and hopefully I can six or eight anyway. He just seems to Freeride: Presumably the standard of best in Ireland. Some guys down there money to be made here in Ireland at guys on the BPSA, as well as the British do it. be doing nothing wrong this year, so surfing in Ireland has changed a lot surf so well but because they’re so far the moment. Surfing is a brand new guys. There’re a couple of British guys Freeride: What is your ranking at the maybe he’ll go all the way. since you started? down you hardly ever see them surf. sport in Ireland, and it’s only going to holding their own, but the top five moment? Freeride: When you’re not surfing, Cain: Yeah, absolutely, and the amount And all the young guys around Sligo, get bigger, so I think the sponsors are spots are mostly international guys. Cain: At the moment I think I’m are you doing anything to support of people that are surfing here now is , Bundoran have definitely making the push here now and trying Even so, to go into the ‘QS is a massive seventeenth or eighteenth. yourself? just crazy. It’s gone up so much. come on loads compared to when we to pick up the grommies. We just need jump; it’s a different world really. There Freeride: When is the last competition Cain: I do bits and pieces to keep the Freeride: How has the competitive were younger. I think there are more of to get more Irish surfers in magazines. are thousands of surfers fighting their of the season? money coming in. I don’t have a full scene changed? them coming up as well, they just need Freeride: How big is the leap from the way to try and be the best on the ‘QS. Cain: It’s on the tenth of November. It’s time job, but once the Newquey comp Cain: Well there were always a handful a few more years. They’re all picking BPSA, to the WQS (World Qualifying I would have to really put my head in Newquay in England. They always is over, I’ll get an evening job because it of us. There was me, the Killfeathers up sponsors at the moment as well, so Series)? down to try and do it, but I don’t think

FREERIDE  FREERIDE  Photo Sequence: Aaron Pierce competing will be my route really. I will performance waves? from Easkey, and they’ve started from Freeride: Well, best of luck with always compete because I will always Cain: I would definitely love to surf big scratch and have learned everything it, and best of luck with your next want to be around good surfers, and waves, but I wouldn’t go so far as to now, so maybe I might try and jump in competition. We hope you get though, always be improving, but I would like call myself a full charger, because there with them for the winter, I don’t know so you can score that trip to Barbados! to try and go the pictures route. There are definitely people a lot crazier than yet. Cain: Yeah, thanks. If there are some are so many good waves here, and so I am. But I want to give bigger waves Freeride: Have you ever surfed Gurlin good waves, I’ll have a good chance, so many photographers going through a go this winter because I’m not going (One of Ireland’s heaviest waves- see hopefully there’ll be some waves! these days. There is a way you can away anywhere. I’d like to have a trip Driven in this issue). work around good photographers and down to Aileens (Ireland’s famous big Cain: Yeah, I’ve surfed it once. I haven’t News Flash: good waves and getting good shots wave spot) for a few days and have a been out there on any of the big days Cain is now the proud father of a baby to keep your sponsors happy. Fergal’s look and see what’s happening down when the boys have been towing in, boy, born shortly after Christmas. Con- doing it at the moment. He’s doing there. There are so many people down but I’ve seen some nutter bodyboard- gratulations from all of us at Freeride. the contests, but he’s also getting way there at the moment, so now’s the time ers surfing it on some huge days. This The little fella doesn’t know how lucky more coverage than any other Irish guy. to do it, when everyone else is. winter I’ll give all that a go. I’m going he is: born into a surfing family on Freeride: So essentially you would like Freeride: Would you consider tow to try and get a couple of guns in my one of the most uncrowded, wave rich to be a free surfer? surfing? quiver, so I’m going to go and have a stretches of coast on the planet! Cain: Yeah, but still do the contests, Cain: I’d give it a go! I would definitely look out there. Fergal can’t wait to go ...... and try and work it that way. look into it and see what’s happening. out there. I think that’s the wave he Freeride: Is your focus mainly on There is a tow crew from around here, wants to track down this winter. As the visiting Germans always say, “Cain wirft enorm sprühen!”

FREERIDE  FREERIDE  BULLET BAY DREAMING Written by Graham Reid

Barry. Surfer, explorer, space-time navigator.

pre-Christmas break, they didn’t seem I reply, “Calm down china, we’ve only Barry has stocked his iPod for the trip. to understand our enthusiasm. “What been in Africa about twelve hours and Dub, roots, reggae, ambient trance. hotel are you going to stay at?” they it’s Sunday. I’ll hit the board shop as Fully mellow. Africa rolls past. It’s hot, asked. soon as it opens in the morning. Pick cloudless, dusty, and beautiful. Long me up at Colin’s place at about nine. grass and barbed wire give way to small, Phone rings. “Yo, bru, it’s me Barry, scrubby bushes and the occasional have you got a board yet? I want to leave “Sweet man, I’ve got my old-mans gnarled old tree. Now I’m smiling, at 6am for the West Coast. Elands Bay is bakkie, the thing is kiff! He says we can grinning ear to ear even. I breathe the “Momentarily locked out of the space-time continuum while deep in the tube, something going to be going mental. Can you get have it for the trip. It’s got fat takkies air, make waves out the window with out to my house? I don’t want to drive and allis, gonna be sweet for the sand my hand. I can’t believe I’m back in flashes in his mind; a forgotten place, a lost wave, the subtle curve of a coastline.” back into Cape Town and get stuck in up there” Barry’s Capetonian slang is Mama Africa. Home. traffic”. back in full swing.

So, I’m on the plane to South Africa. the line. Momentarily locked out of the Hills up into South West Africa and Two weeks ago I was running up the space-time continuum while deep in the Namibia. Earlier still that day, we’d been beach, back to the point for another few tube, something flashes in his mind; a searching for a particular spot on Google waves before dark, and now I’m in this forgotten place, a lost wave, the subtle Earth while sitting on the floor in Dublin silver tube, miles above the Sahara. All it curve of a coastline. He gropes through airport, my laptop plugged into a socket took was one chance meeting to totally the blackness, guided by the silver light we’d liberated from flashing Christmas change the course of my life. towards the ancestors, and is spat out lights on a plastic tree. We zoomed in, into the channel. I listen to his story to three hundred feet, banked left over The sun had set and a beautiful full and watch inky peaks explode into silver the coast and cruised north looking moon rose above Knocknarea. Just two flying fish. We both want to stay out all down at all the bays and points. Then of us left in the ocean. Barry paddles night but the iciness of the starry sky we saw it. Bullet Bay, frozen in time on back up the line, his mind blown by the bites our bones, and survival guides us a perfect day: a lefthander sucking off sparkling silver glow off the water in the back to land. the rocky point, A-Frame breaking onto near darkness. For a minute there he a white beach, and a long, walled up thinks he’s the Silver Surfer, and warps Now we’re in this other silver tube, right rolling down the headland to the out inside a perfect four-foot barrel, halfway to Capetown. Looking down North. We were ecstatic. Barry jumped not knowing what’s real and what’s at the Sahara, yellow dunes roll over into the air, landing with arms out- fantasy. For a second his mind and his the landscape like windswell across stretched like he was taking the drop body separate and he is lost in time. a vast ocean of rock and sand. Four from a bomb, and almost hugged the The warrior Queen’s mountain pulses hours earlier we had the same view of two young secretaries sitting next to us and spins in the eye of the horizontal a different desert, the Namib, which in the departure lounge. Off to binge- vortex as he pumps and weaves down stretches north from the Hottentot drink their way up the wine route for a The road north through the Hottentot Hills, South Africa.

FREERIDE 10 FREERIDE 11 Hours pass by. Still no clouds. Swelter- Elands Bay. We’re disappointed to find ingly hot. The dirt road snakes along a much smaller swell running down beside the train track, then separates the point, but it’s still perfect and I as the tracks punch their way through want to get back in the water. Bazza’s a mountain. On the far side, where the not so keen; he grew up surfing this two meet again, we pull over, get out, point, knows all its nuances, spent stretch our legs, take in the view. summers here as a grommie sleeping at “Yah, Bazza, you jammy bastard, you the campground, winters as a teenager were right. That’s why I love travelling sleeping in the quarry. He wants the with you, cos you’re so damn lucky”. future, and the future is Bullet Bay. “Noit Bru, you don’t understand” Barry’s eyes are suddenly awake, “THAT “Man, this place is a dorp!” Barry’s (pointing into the distance) is very, very right. Vredendal IS a very small place good Elands Bay.” in the middle of nowhere. Sun melts Far off, beyond the shabby docks of a the tar. Vredendal stops and watches fishing port, and behind a small cluster me cross the road. Barry gets out, hair of houses, feathering plumes of spray a mess, does some stretches, searches sail slowly across white sand. round the bakkie for the petrol cap. “Um, hi everyone…. We’re surfers” I It’s night again. We’re sitting in an think about saying, then realise, from abandoned quarry watching our here on out Afrikaans is going to be boorewors cook. The stars are incredible the lingua franca. “Hoe gaan dit” I greet and the fire burns bright. There’s no Barry on home turf. E bay. the checkout lady, and pay for a box of sound, save the crackling of dry sticks, everything I miss about South African and the distant roar of the ocean. I drink food: rooibos tea, rusks, boorewors, a mug of cheap wine from a box and lie biltong, and condensed milk. They won’t tired and happy on the dry earth. My sell us parafin for the stove because breathing rises and falls in time to the people tend to drink it around here. endless rolling swells I see before my Definitely time to get out of Dodge. eyes in the darkness. I relive each wave of the afternoons session, each heavy Road turns to dust. We ask directions at wipe out. High on the kranz above us a lonely junkyard. Dust turns to sand. there is a Bushman cave with paintings We pull out the ordnance survey maps, of little 20,000-year-old hands. check the Google Earth co-ordinates, drink water, get back in and drive. “We must take some photos in the ‘Toots and the Maytals’ is playing, then morning, eh bru? It’s going to be ‘Budda Bar’. The feeling is ire. cranking again. You sleeping in the tent? I’m gonna doss in the back of the Industry looms up ahead. Huge bakkie” says Barry behind sleepy eyes. machines mine the desert. My phone No, I say, I want to sleep under the rings and it’s my Dad. He’s a physics stars. and chemistry teacher, and loves the west coast so I ask him what exactly The air is cool and we rub our hands we’re looking at? “Does it say ‘Namaqua together as the first rays of dawn break Sands’? Is there a huge black dune the desert horizon and shine down on somewhere?” I confirm, and he tells me Bushman cave overlooking elands bay. Offshore bommie. West coast, South Africa.

Ledgendery Elands Bay. Also known as ‘E Bay”.

FREERIDE 12 FREERIDE 13 it’s one of the largest titanium mines in the world. “Wow bru, that’s sick!” Barry tunes me as I explain “You should check Alexcore, my china, they do all the diamonds further north. Everything is fenced off and you can’t even get out of your car for a walk. Hard core bru”.

We are warned not to go any further by a pair of Afrikaners in a four by four. Fuck that! We’ve been driving for nearly a day, you think we’re going to turn around now? “Dankie, thanks very much, we’ll be careful, yah, we’ve got enough water”.

Finally the road draws near the coast as the last rays of the day vanish into the ice-blue sea. A blustery onshore bites our sunburned cheeks, and it will be dark soon, but we’re happy: this place Dunes is so wild, so untouched, so devoid of human interference. Two wheel ruts run through the sand, out of sight in the gathering gloom, over the next dune, and down, to Bullet Bay.

Graham Reid was born in South Africa in 1971. He immigrated to Ireland in 1991 and now lives in Sligo.

Quick South African Slang Dictionary “Bossiesvelt”

Allis (Afrikaans) everything Bakkie Pickup truck Biltong Dried meat Boorewors Sausage Bru [Broo] Mate China Friend, buddy, mate Dankie (Afrikaans) thank you Dorp Small town Doss Sleep KiffCool Kranz (Afrikaans) cliff Noit (Afrikaans) no. slang exclamation Sweet Excellent Takkies Running shoes, also car tyres Journeys end

FREERIDE 14 FREERIDE 15 A l a s t a ir Mennie a nd Andrew Cotten a r e N E V I R D Photo: Kelly Allen

FREERIDE 16 FREERIDE 17 Freeride: Do you think Aileens could been very isolated out there because hold a hundred foot wave? Is it just the we’re always on our own and it’s been safety issue that is the problem? very, very scary. Aileens is scary for Al: It might do. We are never going to the obvious reasons, and then there’s G know. I’m sure that day when we were Spot and it’s just so shallow and scary down there and it was too big to launch for that reason, it’s not the size of the the ski it was in the 60 ft range, maybe waves there, it’s more the shallowness bigger, I don’t know. With Aileen’s of the . there are so many things we are never Freeride: Would you class G Spot with going to know until it happens and the ledgy waves like Shipsterns in Tasmania safety factor is going to be paramount, and Cyclops in Western Australia for but then again, if you wipe out on that example? size of a wave anywhere in the world Al: Well, I’ve never experienced those your chances of drowning are quite waves so I can’t really say what they are high (laughs). like, but I know people who have been Freeride: Yeah, absolutely, I think you to G-spot and they say it resembles guys are crazy! (Al laughs again)! I Teahupoo, but those are their words paddled out to Gurlin the other day, not mine. I haven’t been to Teahupoo so when the waves were really good, and I wouldn’t be able to say that, but that’s from the shore it looked like great fun, what people have told me. Carlos Burle, but when I get out there, and it wasn’t a the very well known big wave surfer, particularly big day, I was gob smacked! has surfed and towed in at Teahupoo, The barrel looked the size of a small and he compared it to G Spot saying auditorium! Sitting on the shoulder, they are very similar. I got a feeling for what it must be Freeride: Can you describe the shape of like to ride such a wave. What is your the reef at G Spot? impression of Gurlin, or The G spot, as Al: Yeah, it’s made up of boulders that it is known? disappear out into the sea but for some Al: Ah, It scares the hell out of me. reason they seem to come out of very It’s so shallow; it’s just ridiculously deep water. I imagine that out there as dangerous. If something goes wrong the boulders end, that there’s a shelf there, you’re in very shallow water; it’s and it just drops off because the wave just a heavy, heavy wave; I think it’s seems to come out of deep water and one of the scary ones because it’s so hit this very shallow boulder ledge and shallow, but all those spot are scary. just turn inside out. We surf Mullaghmore a lot and we’ve Freeride: Have you towed into G Spot? Photo: Aaron Pierce Is This The Biggest Wave Ever Ridden In Ireland? Cotty On An Aileens Bomb (Ed: Not any more! Read the News Flash at the end of this article).

Alistair Mennie and Andrew Cotton as you read this, searching for bigger Al: Aileen’s is different. You can tow realized they had a common goal when mountains; hunting the monsters of it from three and a half, four meters they met at a surf competition in Sri the deep. and it’s massive because it’s such deep Lanka in 2004: they both wanted to Freeride: Have you been tow surfing water. charge big waves in Ireland. Alistair’s lately? We’ve had a 4 meter swell for a Freeride: Cotty was saying that the home is the Port Rush aria, while week now. limits to which Aileen’s can be surfed Andrew hales from Devon in England, Al: No, it hasn’t been big enough, but will be realized in the next year or two, but as he says, “I can check the charts the surfs been really good up here too, because if the swell gets much bigger at 9 am and be in Port Rush by 9 pm its been pumping. We’ve been surfing than four meters it breaks too close to if I have to.” They discussed Ireland’s but it’s not really big enough to be the cliffs. Would you agree? windy, wintery big wave potential in towing in that size. Al: Yeah, I completely agree with that. depth as they sipped cold beer in the Freeride: What type of swell do you We’ve been down there when it’s been tropical heat of Ceylon, and decided to need to tow surf? too big to launch the ski, never mind team up and learn to tow surf as soon Al: Well, it depends on where you are, tow the wave. We’ve been out there on as they got back to Europe. Tow surfing sometimes a four meter swell can be days when there has been fifty footers was in its infancy in Ireland and Al and fine at some spots and not at others, but coming through, and we’ve realized that Cotty, as they are better known, had to usually we look for nine or ten meter the inside between the wave and the make their own tow boards, learn to swells, and then it usually drops a bit cliff has been life or death. If something ride jetskis in big waves and generally by the time it comes round you know, goes wrong you could seriously be stuck learn things though trial and error so we usually look for really big ones. on the rocks for a night. That is going (read: heavy wipeouts!) with little help Freeride: We spoke to Aaron Pierce, who to be the determining factor about how from the outside world. Now they are got some nice shots of you at Aileen’s, big you can surf Aileens: How safe it one of Ireland’s top tow teams, surfing the latest big wave hot spot down in is to surf when there is so much water the biggest waves anyone has found Clare, and he said they were taken in a moving on the inside between the cliff Photo: Kelly Allen in these waters, and are still out there four-meter swell. and the wave. Mutant bombie secret spot.

FREERIDE 18 FREERIDE 19 “...the entire bay at Lahinch was closing out for as far as the eye could see, right out past Spanish point. We spent the session running from giant walls of white water and dodging random shifting peaks”. Photo: Kelly Allen

Al: Yeah, I’ve towed it a couple of times, back before making it to the safety of sort of thing. and I’ve paddled it as well. the harbour. Freeride: What parts of the coast have Freeride: Can you tell us about any Freeride: What waves are you most you been looking at? other heavy days you’ve experienced, excited about at the moment? Al: When we’re looking for new spots we perhaps during the making of Driven, Al: Well, I’m most excited about tend the keep to our own area, which is or on some recent tow-in days? checking out new spots. In fact we’re the north west coast. Al: Yeah, there are have been a few of just sitting in the van here at the minute Freeride: Do you think Ireland has the those! In February of 07, I remember looking at a new spot that we’ve been potential to deliver a 100 ft wave? the entire bay at Lahinch was closing keeping an eye on over the last couple Al: Well, I’m no oceanographer, I can’t out for as far as the eye could see, of years. So that’s what our hopes and really answer that question, but in right out past Spanish point. We spent aspirations are set on this year, surfing my mind I’ve always known there are the session running from giant walls new spots and trying to surf bigger and big waves in this country and we have of white water and dodging random bigger waves and looking for new spots. proved it now. There are big waves shifting peaks, it was good training That’s really my personal goal and drive around on a regular basis and I think for driving the ski and doing pick ups for the next year anyway. this is just the beginning, we’re going to under pressure but we didn’t ride many Freeride: Have you seen any set-ups go out there, as I’m sure other guys are, waves that day. We launched from one that look like they could deliver bigger and we’re going to keep pushing it until side of the bay and then had to weave waves than you have already surfed? we have surfed the biggest waves we’ve our way through the chaos to reach the Al: Yeah, we have seen a few that we found, until we feel our bodies can’t do other side of the bay. On the way back are waiting on now, waiting for the any more or can’t take any more. If there we got caught inside close to shore by right conditions, it’s just going to take is going to be 100 ft waves out there, I’m Photo: Kelly Allen lots of white water and ended up losing a bit of time; these things take years to sure we will be out there trying to do The average blue whale male produces over 400 gallons of sperm when it ejaculates, but only 10% of that actually makes it into his mate. So 360 our boards temporarily. We got them perfect and get the right day and that it. I don’t know if that’s possible, or if gallons of ejaculate are spilled into the ocean every time one unloads. Al and Cotty after a surf in ‘unusual’ conditions.

FREERIDE 20 FREERIDE 21 The G Spot. Feels good to ride it. Photo: Graham Reid that’s going to happen in this country, Freeride: Andrew told me he is a Freeride: What elements do you think some good shots of you; do you ring O’Kane and Mikey Smith from Easkey, contender compared to the rest of the but I don’t see any reason why not. We plumber during the summer to fund are key to making a good film or him up before you go out? they were saying there are a couple from world? are open to the whole Atlantic, North his winter surfing? documenting a surf session? Cotty: No, we just go and do it. We have Easkey now, and there’s Al and myself Cotty: Potentially it’s amazing, but and South, we’ve got all the reef set-ups, Al: Yeah, and I run a building company Cotty: Um, I think the angles of the some snapshots by Aaron Pierce but it’s based up in , but a lot of the what a lot of people living outside we’ve got offshore bombies, we’ve got so we both have our own things on photos are where it’s at really because just been by complete luck really, we’ve teams seem to be looking for slightly Ireland don’t realize is that most big so many different sorts of conditions the side. I think we would rather have I know from filming, that the best been out surfing and he’s been there. We different things really. There has been a swells come with horrendous onshore and a rugged coastline, so yeah, I don’t it that way and the fact that we are angles are always harder to get and don’t like ringing anyone up, um maybe couple of teams that we’ve seen about, wind, so it is just finding those days see why not. If it can happen anywhere making some money and not scraping sometimes expensive, you have to get we should do (laughs) we might get a I think they’re from Dublin, and they in-between, and when you do, you else in the world, it can happen here, by on a so-called professional surfers’ a boat or something like that. Every bit more coverage then, but no, it’s just tend to look for the more perfect waves, are definitely rewarded, so yeah, I’m but as I said, I’m no oceanographer, I’m wage, which is not really amazing for a angle tells a slightly different story and luck really. We have done things in the whereas we look for the bigger waves; prepared to put the time in. sure there are guys out there that can lot of people. makes the wave look slightly different. past with other magazines and rather everyone has ‘a type’ of wave that they Freeride: What would you consider your calculate where and when these waves Freeride: So, Cotty, I wanted to ask you A lot of the time, if you see Aileen’s or than just organizing yourself, your ski, are after, and everyone has a slight favorite wave, or what session have you are going to happen, I can’t do that, but if you only concentrate on tow-in and Mullaghmore for that matter, it’s shot and being in one vehicle, it tends to be edge on what they really want to go enjoyed the most? I’m sure of the possibility. big wave riding at the moment? from the front or from slightly above, a bit more of a circus, and trying to get and surf, which is good. We towed in Cotty: We’ve had a couple of sessions at Freeride: How are you funding your Cotty: Not at all. Well it depends on the and it makes the wave look a lot fatter in the water and actually do something at Aileen’s with Paul and Mikey once Crab Island, which I would say are like, efforts to catch these waves? swell I guess. I spent the whole weekend or flatter, whereas if you are down on takes its time, so it’s nice to just go with and by ourself a few other times, and fun, because it was more relaxing, but Al: We are completely self-funded, we paddle surfing, the surfs been quite the same level as the wave, and slightly the flow and be yourself really. at Mullaghmore we have only really for an adrenaline rush I think Aileen’s do everything ourselves. We have no good, and competing in Portrush. across so you’re looking more into it, Freeride: Do you know how many Irish towed it by ourselves, so we haven’t and possibly Mullaghmore are the major sponsors that are contributing in Freeride: Do you compete a lot? you realize just how heavy it is and how tow teams there are in Ireland at the really towed with that many teams, but spots that get the adrenaline going, any way; we have equipment sponsors Cotty: I do the odd one, but I would much white water there is, and how moment? there are quite a few about. because the waves are just so heavy. and that sort of thing and a bit of a not call myself much of a competitive much water in general there is moving Cotty: I think there are three or four Freeride: How would you rate Sometimes you feel like you’re right on travel budget, but nothing major. We surfer really, but if they’re about and there. crews in Clare, then there is Paul potential as a serious big wave the edge……. just do it for ourselves and by ourselves I’m about, I’ll give it a bash. It’s a bit of Freeride: Do you have any photographers really. fun really. you work with, I know Aaron Pierce has Photo: Aaron Pierce Photo: Kelly Allen Cotty about to get the shack of his life surfing Aileens. Alisair Mennie (front) and Andrew Cotton (suspected case of barrel fever) somewhere in Madeira.

FREERIDE 22 FREERIDE 23 AILEENSBIG AND BEAUTIFUL Photo: Aaron Pierce FREERIDE 24 FREERIDE 25 Photo: Aaron Pierce AILEENSBIG AND BEAUTIFUL Photo: Aaron Pierce FREERIDE 26 FREERIDE 27 Photo: Aaron Pierce “It is our responsibility as surfers to help keep AN ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUE our waters clean for everyone to enjoy.” A Serious lack of wastewater treatment is damaging our environment and affecting our health. Many towns in Ireand still Scenes like these are however, easily to name a few. This is all not to say that every time you avoided. Simple wastewater treatment fa- Even if your coastal town has a treatment enter the water you are risking your pump raw surage directly into the ocean. Scott Reid explains. cilities mean clean water to surf in. Yes, I facility, the risk is not eradicated. Many health. As was mentioned before, the hear you say, but Ireland has wastewater towns have treatment plants without west coast of Ireland has very good qual- treatment plants for its towns. No. Take sufficient capacity to deal with the -in ity water, but you should be aware of the for example Sligo Town, population ca. creasing populations of our ever-growing environmental factors that contribute 25,000. It has no treatment plant. One society. Excess wastewater that cannot to an increased health risk while in the is currently being built but it is still over “fit” into the treatment plant is diverted water. A number of physical, chemical a year away from commissioning. To put through the storm overflow, directly out and environmental factors need to com- this in context, the sewerage from ap- to sea. Another major issue giving rise bine in order for conditions to become proximately 25000 people is discharged to an increased health risk to water us- bad enough for a health issue to arise. into Sligo bay, untreated, continuously, ers is the ‘combined system wastewater Pollution incidences (for surfers) gener- 24 hours a day. The tidal movement is treatment plants’. The ‘combined’ sewer ally occur toward the end of the summer relied upon to disperse and mix the waste networks and treatment plants, common when town populations are at their peak. as it ebbs and flows. This is only one -ex in older treatment facilities, combine More people means more wastewater. ample of many towns throughout Ireland collected surface water from rains and Combine an increased sewer flow with a without basic sanitary treatment facili- storms, with the sewerage effluent. This period of persistent rain, a good swell (to ties. What does this mean for surfers? It results in excessively high flows to the attract surfers) and health risks begin to means an increased risk to health and in treatment plant during storm and heavy increase. extreme cases, increased risk of serious rainfall events. As the treatment plant To illustrate this scenario, take for exam- gastrointestinal illnesses. In 2003, Madi- does not have sufficient capacity, the ple Bundoran Peak. It is no secret that gan et al, a research organisation, listed a combined effluent and surface water is the Peak is particularly prone to pollution number of illnesses that could potentially diverted directly to the sea or river. incidences. This was highlighted in 1997 occur from bathing or surfing in sewage It must be noted that steps are being during the European Surfing Champi- contaminated waters: taken to improve the treatment facilities onships held at The Peak in Bundoran Acute diarrhoea, Bacillary dysentery, throughout the country, but at an alarm- when the problem became nationally and Colonic ulceration, Conjunctivitis, ingly slow rate. I urge you to contact your internationally apparent: “the bay was Gastro-enteritis, Hepatitis, Herpes, Im- local council to find out what treatment seriously polluted, most of the surfers, munolocal deficiency syndrome, Mild facilities are in your area, if any, and what from Ireland and from other countries, or influenzal typhoidial illness, Paraly- time frames are in place for implementa- wouldn’t get into the water” (ISA, 2004). sis/Meningitis, fever, Pneumonia and tion. It is our responsibility as surfers to My experience described in this article septicaemia, Rashes, Respiratory disease, help keep our waters clean for everyone was also at the Peak. Salmonella infections and Typhoid fever, to enjoy. At the time of writing this, Bundoran Photo: Aaron Pierce Perfect A-frame, but for how long without our help.

The west coast of Ireland is generally discover that many people have stories hour when a distinct sweet aroma began graced with good quality water, pictur- of paddling through sewerage-smelling to waft through our nostrils as a wave esque scenery, dramatic landscapes and waters to either get to the line-up or swept past, displacing the air as it moved. good waves. in the line-up itself. On a late October One would not be blamed for mistaking Now, as I have mentioned, water quality afternoon in 2004 I had the unfortunate the smell for farmer’s slurry, however in the west is generally very good, but we experience of witnessing, first hand, the working in the environmental sector for have all heard through friends, associ- dirty side of Irish surfing. many years, I knew immediately that ates and pub tales, of the time ‘my mate It was one of those cliché days ‘only a this was not slurry, but human sewer- surfed in sewerage’. For the most part, surfer knows’, soft offshore breeze op- age. Moments later, the water began to these are what they are, tales retold and posing a solid groundswell rolling out froth up after every wave, like chocolate retold until the fact becomes as warped of the west. There was only a handful of moose. Conditions got steadily worse as that two foot onshore day that sup- guys out and a mate and myself had pad- over the next ten minutes, to the point posedly picked up to six foot minutes af- dled out, brimming with anticipation and that we began duck-diving with mouths ter you left the beach, the wind swinging were in the line up waiting for the next closed and eyes shut, I recall one guy around and your mate having the session set. The water was smooth but not par- dry-retching at some point. It was just of his life, not to mention the 5 second ticularly clear. A translucent brown shim- after a particularly large set rolled in, that barrel. However, these stories generally mer covered the face of the sets as they conditions became unbearable. It was the have a basis in truth somewhere. approached but it was not so unpleasant most disgusting thing I have experienced Asking around during a few sessions as to seem out of the ordinary. as a surfer. We were surfing in sewerage. over the past month, I was intrigued to We had been in the water for about a half We decided to head for the beach. Photo: Scott Reid Step into liquid. Just one of many Irish waves with sewer pipes lurking below. FREERIDE 28 FREERIDE 29 “I urge you to contact your local council to find out what treatment facilities are in your area, if any, and what time frames are in place for implementation.” town and surrounds sewerage remains tection of ‘Other Recreational Activities’: Although this legislation dates as far untreated and is pumped a few miles ‘those activities where devices are used to back as 1976, it is antiquated at best. The south from the town and discharged move across the water, involving a mean- legislation was implemented to address into the sea near Tullaghan. The pipe is ingful risk of swallowing water, such as the needs of bathers and water uses limited to the volume of wastewater that surfing, and kayaking’. throughout Europe. It monitors bathing it can carry and hence there is an over- This new directive also proposed to ad- waters over a 20 week period from May flow facility to help cope with periods of dress the need for ‘a tightening of water to September, allocating an Excellent, increased populations and rainfall. The quality standards and providing the pub- Good, or Poor classification on each overflow discharges directly onto the lic with accessible and real time public specific bathing area. The current legisla- Peak. During the holiday season, with a information on bathing waters’. tion however is completely inadequate to period of prolonged rainfall and a good One of the fundamental changes in the address the needs of modern water users swell, the Peak has the potential to be- new directive concerned the reduction and falls short of suggested scientific come a surfing health hazard. Ironically, of the microbiological parameters to be findings and world heath expert’s opin- Bundoran beach, approximately 100m tested, from three to two. The new pa- ions. Scientific research has shown that away, is a Blue Flag beach. rameters are Faecal (Intestinal) Entero- if a beach has a quality rating of ‘Good’, Surfers need to take a stand to protect cocci and Escherichia coli. These two pa- there is still an approximated 15% chance their own health, because as recreational rameters are known as indicator bacteria of contracting a form of gastrointestinal water users, Irish legislation fails to i.e. indicator bacteria to alert scientists to illness. protect us. the possible presence of such bacterium There is a small improvement in the new Over the years there have been a number leading to illnesses as described earlier. directive, which will come into effect in of revocations, amendments and revi- The proposed implementation of ‘Other 2008, tightening water quality standards sions to directives associated with the recreational activities’ into the new and providing an increase in real-time quality of bathing waters. These came directive was largely due to pressure on information on the state of the water about mainly due to the improvement the EU Parliament from ‘Surfers Against quality at given times. Whether these of scientific analysis and knowledge and Sewage’, an organization based in Eng- changes will be implemented into Irish were implemented into law with regard land representing the rights of surfers to legislation remains to be seen. to the safety and health of bathers and a clean environment. However, when the recreational water users. new directive was finally passed, it failed Scott Reid graduated from Sligo Institute Today, 131 bathing areas are monitored to define ‘Other recreational activities’, of Technology with an honours degree in throughout Ireland (122 are coastal once again failing to take into account Environmental Science and Technology. and 9 are inland sites) as a result of the modern water users and surfers alike. He now works with an environmental Quality of Bathing Waters (Amendment) The new directive accounts for ‘bath- consultancy firm that deals with waste- Regulations, 2001. Of the 122 coastal ers’ only, not taking into account waters water treatment and discharge licences bathing areas, none could be described as outside of designated bathing areas were among other things. a ‘serious’ surfing beach. most surfing activities take place. In ad- On the 21st October 2003, the European dition, the limited sampling and analysis Next Issue: Coastal erosion and damage Parliament had its first vote on the new period fails to monitor waters during the to fragile reef ecosystems through use: Bathing Water Directive. This was in periods when recreational water users Suring’s impsacta on our coastline and compliance with the new Water Frame- frequent the oceans, i.e. surfers prefer the solutions. work Directive. This new bathing water the winter months when swell is at its directive proposed to provide for the pro- best. Photo: Graham Reid Speed blur. Time is of the essence.

FREERIDE 30 FREERIDE 31 CULTURE

Eneko Acero loving it. Peace Point, Spain. CROSS The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. In the late 90’s, a surf video called accurately the Bundoran area. I’m telling took me, and my friends Rafa, Alex and Litmus was released. It showed diverse you all this because it was Andrew Txele, to this cold and windy island. SERGIO LÓPEZ, BASQUE COUNTRY RIPPER, SURF PHOTOGRAPHER AND waves in different parts of the world – Kidman’s beautiful video – a 16 mm JOURNALIST FOR SPANISH SURF MAGAZINES 3 SESENTA AND SURFER and without the typical titles revealing movie, full of transcendental music and Searching for a wave the secrets of each area. Among the slow sequences that transported you We had a lot of information about the RULE, WRITES ABOUT HIS WATERY LOVE AFFAIR WITH IRELAND places in the video was Ireland, more to a world of feelings – that eventually places we wanted to visit; we knew All photos in this article: Sergio López “...our national jewel and pride, Mundaka...” Menakoz, Uribe Coast, Spain.

FREERIDE 32 FREERIDE 33 there were some well-known jewels in while and someone said: “there’s no use Bundoran, and many more waiting to surfing the left with three other guys, if be discovered. This made us unable to we can surf the right by ourselves”. For sleep in the days prior to our trip, and our ears, it was such an unusual remark fed our souls with an urgent longing (as unusual as seeing lonely waves was for waves. We started the search for a to our eyes) that we burst into laughter, left we’d seen in the Litmus video. Ale full of an increasing joy. guessed a river mouth and an estuary, and his eagerness led him to find the Cocktail of misfortunes wave thanks to Google Earth. When we Rafa and Ale had planned a three-week got there, we could run through those long surfari for this year, but I just green fields, just as Fitzgerald had done. had 9 nine days, which made me feel a We were dreaming about that beautiful, feverish enthusiasm; I wanted to do too fast left, although we knew there wasn’t many things for such a short time. Had I enough swell to surf it. Instead, we found known I would stay five more days due to a small but perfect right which died the cancellation of my flight from Sligo in front of the rocks from where Txele to Dublin, I’d have taken my holidays was filming the barrels Rafa was riding. with a more Oriental philosophy. It We marked that place in our map with all began on our third or fourth day a cross, and this discovery encouraged there. That morning I woke up with my us to go on searching. We enjoyed this Rafa and Ale doing some exploring in ireland. Meñakoz point, Uribe Coast, Spain nose running and a sore throat. I could small north swell for four days in the foresee a near future of painkillers area, and this very fulfilling first and unavoidable rest. There had been “raid” into Irish territory made us try a few days of intense activity: several again in the autumn of 2007. surfs per day, preceded by a thorough search, plus the transport of my photo To be (alone) or not to be... That is equipment. I must admit that, with my the question camera in my hand and inspiration on We live in Uribe Kosta, a coastal area my side. I can be a pain in the neck and about 40 km long near Bilbao, on the it can voraciously consume my energy west coast of the Basque country. A wide and life force when trying to get good range of waves can be found here, from pictures. No wonder I had caught a sandy to rocky bottoms: some good cold. As if this wasn’t enough, I’d waves are moody, some are not; there are smashed my head on a rocky bottom big swells in winter and small waves in one afternoon. It was a ridiculous wave, summer. Advancing further to the east quite small though still really good, you will find the beach of Bakio and our but I was betrayed by an excess of self- national jewel and pride, Mundaka. I’ve confidence. This is typical of me when noticed that when one hasn’t traveled I get carried away by the excitement for a long time, the waves in this area of surfing good waves, but this time I can be good or very good, but when one paid for it. I had fallen once but I wasn’t comes back home from a surfari like defeated, so I went to surf the left on They make a discovery. Rafa Oteo, Ireland. ours in Ireland, you realize what crap the other side of the large cove. I had a breaks we have here, and how crowded go and landed in the rocks, which hurt they can be. (Ed: Now lads, the photos my legs and my board As I got out to look pretty decent, don’t be too hard check the damage, bleeding and starting on yourselves! Not everyone can live in to feel pain in my right leg, I didn’t see the Green Room in the Emerald Isle). a strand of barbed wire. I stepped on it. Every time we looked at some lonely Contrary to what you might think, this Irish break we had discovered, the same wasn’t the work of an Irish leprechaun thought came into our minds: if this (Ed: So he thinks!) because some days wave was near our place, it would be later when I was getting home at seven packed with surfers. We arrived back in in the morning, I stumbled on the steps Ireland for get a little bigger. I couldn’t and fell, like a castaway who gets to help surfing, even though it was small. land after days floating in the water, The next day we enjoyed 3 foot waves, but instead of a sandy beach I found and had a realy fun surf at Tullagghan concrete, as my knees will remember left. It wasn’t very big but still amazing. for a long time. Of course, we were alone for more than one hour. On Sunday we tried again, Consequences and reflections and when we were on the rolling-stoned Ireland is going to be my exclusive shore we saw there were two or three surfari destination until I get bored, or surfers on the left, but the right was until I utterly know the area. Then I’ll empty. We looked at each other for a Surfs Up! Celebrating Spanish style. Xavi Guerrero, secret point,Uribe coast, Spain. turn my obsession to another place, but

FREERIDE 34 FREERIDE 35 I’m tenacious, and I think that not even three lives would be enough to smell all the flowers in the Irish garden. On the other hand, my girlfriend (who by the way has Irish blood running through her veins) is fond of warm places, so this could be a problem for me. As she is translating this text, the question will probably be resolved by the time you read this. While in Ireland I met quite a few Irish surfers of great worth: when will we have one of them at the top of the rankings? I guess it all depends on the time it will take the media to pay attention to this emerald island. If this ever happened, it would mean a change in the Irish surf scene, and it wouldn’t be my emerald island anymore. I like it as it is now. It is a pleasure to enjoy great quality waves surrounded by green vegetation and farm animals. In Ireland you feel as if you are home, anywhere you go you’ll find kind people who welcome you as old friends, and they are very receptive to . Keeping in mind that I hardly speak English and that the day I met Graham (Editor of Freeride) at Pampa, I was tired, feverish and in a hurry, it is a miracle that you readers of this first national surf magazine have come to read this tribute to our Irish trip.

Thanks to Apolonia Dermit for translating this article, and to Ale, Rafa and Txele for being great surfari mates.

Ed: Well, people have always said that there’s a great kindred spirit between the Irish and the Spanish, particularly those from the North Coast of Spain. From reading Sergio’s article, it’s clear that he and his mates share the laid back attitude and stoke of Irish surfers. On behalf of the Irish surfing community, I say it’s a pleasure to have such appre- ciative and respectful guests to our Irish Steven Kilfeather flying down the line, two swifts on his wing. waters. Sergio has been a surfer for more than fifteen years, and keeps a webpage with another surfer and photogra- pher, Juan Lazcano. The page contains daily updates of their photographs and information on organized surf trips to Spain’s most emportant spots. You can check it out at www.olasdevizcaya.com.

FREERIDE 36 FREERIDE 37 row. But, I don’t know, it hasn’t really didn’t know how to ride waves like that. dropping down to eighth, but that’s all made any difference to sponsorship or It was just whitewater, not one wave, no right for my first year doing it. anything; it’s just good for myself to get shape, nothing, just whitewater. I got Freeride: For sure! Plus you’re the first those results. knocked out in the second round but I Irishman to win a BPSA competition… CHARGING! Freeride: Last I heard, you’d won the wasn’t too pissed ‘cos you don’t mind Fergal: Yeah, the highest Cain and Mike Scottish leg of the BPSA (British Pro- being beaten in waves like that. They’re ever got was top twelve, so I was pretty fessional Surfing Association) and had not actually waves, just complete and stoked to get top eight. a chance of winning the year if you did utter grovel really. Freeride: Which makes you the highest- well at the final event in Newquey. How Freeride: What did the other guys do ranking Irishman ever? did that go? to win the heats? What exactly do you Fergal: Yeah! Fergal: Ah, yeah, that was shit! You have to do on a piece of whitewater to Freeride: Brilliant! Does your brother see, in Therso in Scotland, we had a reef win a heat?! compete these days? break and good waves, and I won that. Fergal: Oh, I don’t know, they were just Fergal: He surfs but he doesn’t compete. It was the only reef on the whole tour, squiggling, doing seventeen cutbacks on He’s living in Sligo, doing an engineering and it showed that me and Cain can do a piece of foam. It wasn’t even surfing course, so I stay with him whenever I’m well in good waves. Then Portrush was in my book. It was a disgrace really that up there, which is pretty handy. pumping as well, so I did well in that… the last event of the tour all got decided Freeride: So he’s the guy you ring for I got to the finals, so I was psyched; in four foot of whitewater. the surf report…! I was really keen to do well. Then two Freeride: What position were you in, Fergal: Yeah! But contests are not really weeks later I went over to Newquey, and going into Newquey? my whole game either, it’s just that you there was literally not a wave. There was Fergal: I was fifth going into it and if I’d kinda gotta do them for sponsorship. no swell, 30-knot northwest onshore made the final, and the guys that were My big sponsor is the Northern Irish winds, and no waves… just whitewater winning got knocked out in the semis, I Sports Council. They pay for all the running towards the beach. I paddled could have won the year. It wasn’t that contest entry fees, travel, accommoda- out and I was just looking at it thinking, easy to win really, but I was hoping to tion, everything. That’s why I have to do ‘what the hell can I do in this?!’ I got just hold my place. If I’d finished in fifth all these contests, because it’s good for though the first heat, but I literally it would have been top class. I ended up them, it’s what they pay me to do, but Photo: Surf Snaps

Fergal Smith Is On His Way To H a w a i i A s Y o u R e a d This. No Fear Of The Banzi Pipeline, All He Wants Do Is Surf Big, Heavy Waves...and Win The Odd Contest.

Freeride: Fergal, you seem to be surfing same time, and my Dad surfs, so we all Freeride: You’re twenty now and Cain’s a lot in Sligo lately… are you living up just progressed together, but it was me twenty-one, so you compete in the same here now? and my bro’ that have been pushing age bracket, right? Fergal: No, I still live in Westport. each other for years. I was about fifteen Fergal: Yeah, we’ve always competed There are plenty of waves round here, when I did my first contest up at Easkey. against each other. but nothing too epic. That’s where I met Cain (Kilcullen) and Freeride: So tell me about this year, it’s Freeride: So, how did you get into all the boys. I started out with them, been pretty good for you… surfing in the first place? doing the odd trip, and getting on the Fergal: Yeah, I had some good contests, Fergal: My family has an organic farm Irish team… it just progressed like that. and got heaps of good coverage, so it’s and to get away in the summer, we Freeride: And you did the Rossgnowl- been great. I didn’t really expect to do couldn’t go far because the farm is so agh competitions with Cain in the early that well in the contests, but whenever hectic, so we used to go down to Achill days? I go over to them, I try and do my best Island for a few days every week. We Fergal: Yeah. Well, I didn’t really start because it’s such a mission… like driving have a mobile home down there so that’s competing ‘till I was fifteen, and they’d all the way to Scotland! And it costs how we got into it… every summer we’d all been doing the comps since they so much money, and you’re missing go down to Keel and surf. Later on, we’d were twelve. I didn’t get on the team ‘till pumping waves, so I always give it go up to Easkey, and it goes on from I was seventeen, so I was kind of a late my best shot and this year I got really Photo: Surf Snaps there. Me and my brother learnt at the bloomer! lucky, got a couple of good results in a Fergal Smith going deep.

FREERIDE 38 FREERIDE 39 I’m more into surfing big waves…that’s more sense to try and get my game attitude of being content with surfing what I’m really into; it’s what I’ve been together while I’m in Oz; be ready for our waves and not really trying to push trying to do all winter anyway. when I come back. ourselves. It’s kind of boring, and it Freeride: Big waves are part of your Freeride: And the Northern Irish Sports really wrecks my head! Like, I won that plan for this year then? Council is paying for the whole lot? Scottish comp, and I can guarantee Fergal: Well, I’m off to Hawaii for a Fergal: Yeah, well, they kind of you, no one would ever have done it if I month, and I’ll go from there on to encouraged me to do all that training, hadn’t tried. No one was interested. So Oz for another month. The Oz part is so they’re paying. I’m hoping that my winning will bring organized by the Northern Irish Sports Freeride: Are there any other Irish more Irish surfers over and more people Council. There’s a high performance surfers going with you? will start doing the comps. My main surf centre in Oz that has teamed up Fergal: No, no one’s doing it anymore. thing this winter is to try and surf as with Ireland- we send people out there Cain was the last man standing, and now many waves as I can in Ireland, because regularly enough. The centre is designed he’s a dad so he’s kind of tied down. All I just want to get out there and surf the to teach surfing with all the top coaches. the rest of the boys are either in college heaviest, best waves I can find. Some It’s all about contests and heats and or working, so I’m the Lone Ranger! Cornish bodyboarders have started this strategies. So I’ll do that for a month, Freeride: How does all this surfing project called The Mojo Experiment, and then come back and do the contests affect your studies? and they’ve got me on board now and when they start up again. Hopefully, I’ll Fergal: Well, I’ve got a good Leaving a couple of other surfers. It’s just about go back to Oz afterwards, somewhere Cert so I’ve got that to fall back on if riding heavy waves and filming it, and like the south coast or Western Australia, I need it, but my whole point in life at next year all my free time will be taken and then go to Teahupoo on the way the moment is to stay as far away from up with that. We’ve got one ski, and we’ll home… I don’t know, its all plans… college as I can! If I can keep surfing try and get another one for next year, Freeride: Is going to Hawaii part of without going to college, I’ll be happy then start finding some mental waves your training? out! and getting them on the best days. Fergal: No, Hawaii is just for myself. Freeride: What’s your long-term Yeah, I just want to push myself and my I want to go out and surf some heavy ambition as a surfer? Where do you surfing and see how far I can go. waves, see how it’s done really. Oz will want to be in five years Freeride: Are you thinking about the be the training bit. There’s no point time? WQS (World Qualifying Series)? surfing in Ireland in February, trying to Fergal: I just want to push Irish surfing, Fergal: Well, I’m on the fence on that get ready for contests. It makes so much I suppose. Everyone has got this Irish one. It’s so much money, and so much Fergal Smith. Photo sequence: Aaron Pierce

FREERIDE 40 FREERIDE 41 Photo: Kim Geldenhuys Sunset Beach, North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. time and energy. Realistically, you could get in. It’s a four star event, and guys sponsors, good for coverage and good get top 100 or top 50 in the QS, but are who have done a season on the QS get for media, and hopefully sponsors will you going to make it to the top 44 to first choice. I’m on a waiting list, so they get on board and back us. My sponsor, qualify for the ASP World Tour? That’s might let me in, you never know. Analog, are not really about contests; the thing. You’re going to spend years Freeride: Do you have any fear of Pipe they sponsor people like Nathan of your life and loads of money, but are at all? Fletcher and Koby Abberton, guys who you going to make it in the end? On the Fergal: No, I can’t wait! I’ve been have probably never done a contest in other hand, this thing we’re doing, the surfing some pretty mental waves this their lives! Mojo Experiment, is about surfing the last week, just going out and getting my Freeride: What boards are you riding at best waves you’ve ever imagined and ass kicked, just getting ready for Pipe. the moment? having the best time ever. So, I don’t Freeride: Which waves? Fergal: I always ride small boards. A know. I’m definitely going to do some Fergal: Just some mental slabs around few days ago I was riding G Spot on a QS’s but I don’t know if I’m going to Mayo. I went out last week and they six one, and it was about six foot out make it my career and get lost on it for were too big, you couldn’t really surf there, but then if it was a bit bigger, I’d the next six years or something. I mean, them, but I would just paddle out and use a six four or five. I’ve got a six seven if you got top 100 it’d be amazing, but it catch a wave and get trashed in eight- and six-nine now and I’ve been trying would mean absolutely nothing. You’re foot bombies, just to see if I could to get into them because they’re way getting paid to do contests, but that’s it. handle it. That’s what Hawaii is like, you easier when you ride bigger waves, but That’s all you’d be doing year in and year know, being in really serious situations I usually just use small boards. JP, the out, and it’s a little bit soul destroying. and getting out of them. Next summer shaper for Mellow , has just I think you can do so much more than I want to go to south Oz and do some been giving me the best boards you can getting lost in heat results. It drains you. proper ; learn how to imagine really. I’ve just got a six seven, I’ve done a few things in Europe, like the surf really heavy waves and then I’ll be six five and six four, shaped specially for pro junior events the last three years, ready for our next winter. Hawaii. and you’re just doing contests week in Freeride: Is surfing mental waves going Freeride: Well, charge hard and do the and week out and you kinda forget what to be your life’s work?! Irish proud! Best of luck from all of us it’s about really. I’ll see, I’ll definitely do Fergal: It’s more just what we want to at Freeride, and enjoy the sunshine in some of them… I’m trying to enter the do, but we can get huge coverage out of Australia and Hawaii! Banzi Pipeline ‘QS for when I’m out in it because the photos and the footage Hawaii, but I don’t know if I’m going to is going to be crazy. It’ll be good for

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