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Tactical Bodies and Appropriated Styles: the Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China Chengcheng Shi a Thesis in T

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Tactical Bodies and Appropriated Styles: the Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China Chengcheng Shi a Thesis in T Tactical Bodies and Appropriated Styles: The Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China Chengcheng Shi A Thesis in The Department of Communication Studies Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts (Media Studies) at Concordia University Montreal, Quebec, Canada February 2019 © Chengcheng Shi, 2019 i CONCORDIA UNIVERSITY School of Graduate Studies This is to certify that the thesis prepared By Chengcheng Shi Entitled: Tactical Bodies and Appropriated Styles: The Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China and submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts (Media Studies) complies with the regulations of the University and meets the accepted standards with respect to originality and quality. Signed by the final Examining Committee: _____________________________ Chair _____________________________ Examiner Dr. Lian Duan _____________________________________________ Examiner Dr. Monika Kin Gagnon _____________________________ Supervisor Dr. Yasmin Jiwani Approved by _______________________________________________ Chair of Department or Graduate Program Director: Monika Kin Gagnon 2019 Dean of Faculty ii ABSTRACT Tactical Bodies and Appropriated Styles: The Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China Chengcheng Shi This thesis explores how the Dagongmei (young, single rural women who migrate to large cities for lowly paid work), a specifically Chinese subaltern, are “making do” with fashion as a discourse imposed by the dominant socio-economic order. My point of departure is to interrogate how fashion is used by the Dagongmei as a means of survival, as a tactic of social mobility, and as a tool for self-fulfillment. To do this, I track the origin and history of Chinese fashion as well as Chinese peasant’s subject position from the 19th century to the present, analyse the construction of the Dagong worker and the Dagongmei in post-socialist Chinese urban discourse, and briefly describe the relationship between the Dagongmei and the urban-dominated discourse of fashion. I examine representations of the Dagongmei in official discourse and popular media, as well as the lived experience of the Dagongmei and their relationship to fashion. Overall, this thesis demonstrates the signifying practices that the Dagongmei adopt within the dominant discourse of fashion in order to adapt it to their own interpretations of subjectivity, modernity, and self-development. iii Acknowledgement I am extremely grateful to the support of my supervisor, Dr. Yasmin Jiwani. I would not have been able to finish this research without her continuous guidance, and I can’t thank her enough for her advices, support, and inspirations. I would like to express my gratitude to Dr. Monika Kin Gagnon and Dr. Lian Duan, who provided many insightful and critical comments for this thesis. Also special thanks to all my classmates and the colleagues at Concordia University’s Department of Communication Studies for their unwavering support during the last two years. To my parents Chuanxia Liu and Wanpeng Shi, everything that I have accomplished is because of your love, support, and encouragements. Finally, this thesis is dedicated to the Dagongmei. As a young Chinese woman, I share a significant amount of pressure, anxiety and confusion with them, and I hope this work will make more people pay attention to the roles and needs of rural migrant women in transitional China. iv Table of Contents List of Figures .......................................................................................................................................................... vii Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................ 1 Chapter Breakdown ....................................................................................................................................................... 7 CHAPTER 1: Historical and Literature Review ............................................................................................... 8 Fashion in China .......................................................................................................................................................... 8 Enter the Dagongmei ................................................................................................................................................ 13 The Making of Rural/Urban Divide .................................................................................................................... 14 The Making of Rural-to-Urban Migrants (the Dagong Worker) .................................................................. 17 The Making of the Dagongmei ............................................................................................................................. 21 The Dagongmei and Chinese Fashion ............................................................................................................... 23 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................................................... 26 CHAPTER 2: Theorizing Fashion ........................................................................................................... 28 Roland Barthes and Fashion ................................................................................................................................. 28 Fashion and Language .......................................................................................................................................... 28 Language/Speech Versus Costume/Clothing ..................................................................................................... 30 Strategy, Tactic, and The Fashion Scene of the Dagongmei in Post-Socialist China ........................... 32 Strategy...................................................................................................................................................................... 32 Tactic .......................................................................................................................................................................... 35 Consumer Production and The Appropriation of the Master’s Space ........................................................ 36 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................................................... 37 CHAPTER 3: From Country Bumpkins to the Dagongmei: The Subject Formation of Rural Female Migrant Workers in Post-Socialist China ...........................................................................................39 Departing from the Village ..................................................................................................................................... 39 Between Us and Them.............................................................................................................................................. 42 Suzhi ........................................................................................................................................................................... 42 Style Consumption .................................................................................................................................................. 45 The Flawed Outsider .............................................................................................................................................. 47 Country Bumpkin/Promiscuous Whore ............................................................................................................ 49 Country Bumpkin .................................................................................................................................................... 50 Promiscuous Whore ................................................................................................................................................ 51 v Model Dagongmei in Dominant Discourse ........................................................................................................ 55 The Returned Dagongmei ..................................................................................................................................... 55 The Lienǚ and The Shizu ....................................................................................................................................... 58 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................................................... 61 CHAPTER 4: Tactical Bodies and The Style of the Dagongmei ..................................................................63 Fashion as Urban Adaptation ................................................................................................................................ 63 Tactical Fashion ......................................................................................................................................................... 67 Dress Up for Myself ................................................................................................................................................ 67 Fashion as Bricolage ............................................................................................................................................
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