©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

GERMANY, AUSTRIA & SWITZERLAND’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 33 ROAD TRIPS

This edition written and researched by Nicola Williams Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Tom Masters, Sally O’Brien, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Benedict Walker SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to , Austria & Switzerland...... 7 % Telephone i Internet E English- Classic Trips...... 8 Number Access Language Menu h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Germany, Austria & Switzerland p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly Highlights...... 12 # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly If You Like...... 22 s a Air- Swimming Conditioning Pool Need to Know...... 24 City Guide...... 26 MAP LEGEND Germany, Austria & Switzerland Routes Trips by Region...... 30 Trip Route Trip 1 Numbers Trip Detour 1 Linked Trip Linked Trip #9 Trip Stop Walk Route Walking tour TollwayTollway 2 Walking tour Freeway ON THE ROAD Trip Detour Primary Secondary RouteHighway Marker Routes Markers Tertiary place-E44 E-road network Lane Ù[97 US National Hwy M100 National network Unsealed Road VÓU5 US Interstate Hwy NORTHEASTERN Plaza/Mall Plaza/Mall Hydrographydk44 California State Hwy Steps GERMANY...... 33 Steps River/Creek Tunnel Hydrography Tunnel Intermittent River Pedestrian River/Creek Along the Baltic holderOverpass Swamp/Mangrove 1 Overpass Intermittent River Coast...... 5 Days 37 Walk Track/PathTrack/Path CanalSwamp/Mangrove Water Boundaries Canal Boundaries Dry/Salt/ Design for Life: Bauhaus International Water International Intermittent Lake 2 to VW...... 2–4 Days 47 State/Province Dry/Salt/ State/Province Glacier Cliff Intermittent Lake mapCliff Areas Glacier Lakes & Treasures of Wall Beach 3 Population Areas –Western Population Cemetery Capital (National) (Christian)Beach Pomerania...... 2–3 Days 55 Capital (National) Capital Cemetery (Other) Capital (Christian) (State/Province) Park (State/Province)City/Large Town Cemetery (Other) Highlights of City/LargeTown/Villag Towne ForestPark 4 Saxony...... 5–7 Days 63 Town/Village Urban Area Transport Forest Sportsground TransportAirport Reservation Central Germany’s Castles AirportCable Car/ Urban Area 5 & Palaces...... 3–5 Days 73 CableFunicula Car/r Sportsground FunicularParking Parking Train/Railway Berlin & the Jewels of Eastern Train/Railway 6 Tram Brandenburg...... 4 Days 81 Tram 2 Underground UndergroundTrain Station Train Station CONTENTS

Via Regia...... 5–7 Days 89 Romantic 7 c Rhine...... 5–7 Days 157

German Avenues 8 Route...... 5–7 Days 101 d Valley...... 2–4 Days 169

German Wine e Route...... 2–4 Days 177 NORTHWESTERN GERMANY...... 121 North Sea SOUTHERN GERMANY....189 9 Coast...... 5–7 Days 125 f Bergstrasse...... 2–4 Days 193 a German Fairy Tale Road...... 5 Days 135 German Castle g Road...... 7 Days 201 Cologne & the b Ruhr Valley...... 4 Days 149

Northeastern Germany Northwestern p33 Germany p121

Southern Germany p189

Austria p273 Switzerland p335

3 Contents cont.

The Romantic SWITZERLAND...... 335 h Road...... 10 Days 213 Northern i Glass Route...... 7 Days 227 t Switzerland...... 3 Days 339 Lake Geneva & Western German Alpine u Switzerland...... 4 Days 347 j Road...... 7 Days 235 v Geneva to k Lake Constance...... 7 Days 247 Zürich...... 7 Days 355 w The Swiss Fantastic Alps...... 7 Days 365 l Road...... 4–6 Days 255 Graubünden & x Ticino...... 5 Days 377 Schwarzwaldhoch- m strasse...... 2–4 Days 263

AUSTRIA...... 273 ROAD TRIP Along the ESSENTIALS n Danube...... 2–4 Days 277

Grossglockner Germany, Austria & Switzerland o Road...... 5–7 Days 285 Driving Guide...... 390 Tyrol & Germany, Austria & Switzerland p Voralberg...... 5–7 Days 295 Travel Guide...... 396 q Castles of Language...... 404 Burgenland...... 2–4 Days 305 Index...... 408 Salzkammergut r ...... 5–7 Days 313

Carinthian s Lakes...... 2–4 Days 323

4 GERMANY, 10 German Fairy Tale Road DENMARK 10 Learn the fantasies and the AUSTRIA & horrors in the stories of the 5 DAYS #] Brothers Grimm. SWITZERLAND Flensburg

#\ Binz Fall under #\ Stralsund Romantic Rhine #]Kiel 12 the spell of the castle-lined riverscape along the world- #] famous Rhine. 5–7 DAYS Lübeck #\ ^# Wismar

Norddeich Hamburg ^# Szczecin #\ Jever Bremerhaven #] #] #] #] ^# POLAND Wilmhelmshaven GroningenGro Look out for the Classic Trips stamp Leeuwarden 10 #\ Lüneburg #\ #] GF #] Bremen Oldenburg ^# W es er BERLIN lbe #_ on our favorite routes in this book. Ems E Wolfsburg #] NETHERLANDSDS #] Potsdam Osnabruck Hanover ^# Enschedens #] #] German Avenues Route #] #] Braunschweig #]Magdeburg 8 Follow one of Germany’s most Lutherstadt Münster #]Bielefeld Hildesheim Dessau- picturesque, tree-lined driving #] Rosslau #\ Wittenberg CCottbusottbu 5–7 DAYS #\ #\ routes. #] R R h 10 Brocken GF8 Nijmegen in GF e (1141m) GelsenkirchenG Göttingen #\ #] ^# #] Halle #] Duisburgg^# Dortmund Hoyerswerda Kassel ^# Krefeld #] - #] Leipzig ^# #]Wuppertal Edersee Freyburg#] Düsseldorf #] Solingen National Park ^#Dresden German Castle Road Erfurt Castles, palaces and fortresses German Avenues Leverkusen #] Gotha Jena Gera GF8 16 #] Bergisch Kellerwald #] ^# #] ^# National Park #] #] Chemnitz galore along this route from Vaalserberg Cologne Gladbach #\ Siegen to . 7 DAYS (321m)R#] #] Aachen #] Bonn Zwickaukau Signal de Giessen #]Suhl Hohe Acht #\ #\ Botrange R (747m) 8 (694m) GF12 R Route...... 5–7 Days 101 #] #]Koblenz Buurgplaatz #_ (559m)R Frankfurt Main Wiesbaden ^# #\ GF10 #] Hanau ECH REPUBLIC #] #\ Bayreuth TheCZECHCZ Romantic REPUBLIC Road Plzeň Trier Mainz #] Darmstadt Würzburg #] 17 A ribbon of historical quaintness #] #] GF16 running through ’s 10 DAYS #\ Erlangen western reaches. Kaiserslautern Mannheim #] #] GF17 Saarbrücken Ludwigshafen #] am Rhein 16 Regensberg Germany Fairy Tale GF #] #\ Regen #] Karlsruhe #\ Don #\ Grafenau orava Ingolstadt#\ au Pforzheim (Danu M b Donau (Danube) #\ e) #] Landshut BRATISLAVA Strasbourg Kniebis e) Linz a M R b Augsburg #] Pöchlarn #_ #_ u #] ^# o #\ Ulm #\ n #] Traun#\ ...... 135 s n Freising Road 5 Days Da VIENNA e i Gengenbach l e u ( l a e h 17 ^# R Don GF Munich #\ #\ Colmar #\ Gmunden #]Freiburg Landsberg #] R am Lech Salzburg Mulhouse Stein am GF19 #\ Feldberg (1493m) #\Rhein Rh 24 ^# ein ^# GF19 n GF R In Zürich #\ Bregenz Basel #] Zugspitze Graz St Gallen (2963m) #] 24 Mur #] oubs GF D Innsbruck R #\ Rennweg #\ Lucerne #] Grossglockner Romantic Biel-Bienne #\ Schwyz GF24 (3798m) #] Bern R D Stanserhorn Rhein#\Chur ra Klagenfurt u #\ #] Interlaken #\ GF32 Maribor Laussane R #] R steraarhorn ITALY R Schilthorn (4274m)42 Triglav c #\ (2970m) Thonon- (2864m) Rhine...... 5–7 Days 157 ne #] les-Bains Rh Locarno #\ Geneva #\ GF32 © IMAGES GETTY / KRAHMER FRANK SLOVENIA Martigny The Swiss Alps The greatest Chamonix R © IMAGES GETTY / BI YUANYUE BRUCE #\ Matterhorn VareseVarese R 32 of#\ the great outdoors: perfect The palace could star Mt Blanc (3883m) #\ mo (4807m) peaks,ComoC gorgeouso glaciers, 7 DAYS in any fairy tale. Home 11 Biella verdant valleys. #\ to Elector Wilhelm and later Kaiser Wilhelm II, the opulent complex today houses one of Germany’s best collections of Flem - German Castle ish and Dutch baroque paintings, featuring works by Rembrandt, Rubens,

Jordaens, Lucas Cranach GERMANY NORTHWESTERN the Elder, Dürer and many g others in the Gemälde - Road...... 7 Days 201 galerie (painting gallery). 54p146 The Drive » Retrace your 6km drive on Wilhelmshöher Allee into Kassel and take the

busy A7 right up to Göttingen. 10

oad r Tale Fairy German 7 Göttingen With over 30,000 students, The Romantic this historic town nestled in a corner of Lower

ONE AND ONLY / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / ONLY AND ONE Saxony near the Hesse WHy THiS iS a border offers a good taste ClaSSiC TriP of university-town life in h Germany’s north. Since RYAN VER Road...... 10 Days 213 1734, the Georg-August BERKMOES, AUTHOR Universität has sent more than 40 Nobel Prize win Did they give us nightmares or - fantasies? Or both? Who can forget ners into the world. As hearing the wild stories of the well as all those award- winning doctors and scien Brothers Grimm as a child? Evil - stepmothers, dashing princes, fair tists, it also produced the maidens, clever animals, mean old fairy-tale-writing Brothers wolves and more. With every passing Grimm (as German lin - year, these stories become more guistic teachers). sanitised. But the real fairy tales are Be sure to stroll around German Alpine far more compelling, as you’ll learn the pleasant Markt and on this trip. nearby Barfüsser-strasse to admire the Fachwerk Top: Beech trees in Kellerwald-Edersee National Park (half-timbered) houses. Left: Brothers Grimm sculpture in Hanau The city’s symbol, the j Right: The exterior of an old building in Marburg Road...... 7 Days 235 Gänseliesel (little goose girl) statue on Markt is hailed locally as the most 140 kissed woman in the world – not a flattering moniker, you might think,

141 & 2pm, also noon & 4pm Sat & The Drive » From Schloss & 1 Dessau-Rosslau Sun), erected in 1925–26 Park Mosigkau, take the B185 as a school of Bauhaus for 15km to the pretty village of The former GDR town art, design and archi- Köthen, where Bach composed of Dessau-Rosslau, Grossglockner tecture, and the three his Brandenburg concertos and 130km south of Berlin, The Well-Tempered Clavier. Meisterhäuser (Masters’ is best known for being Continue on the B185 for 45km Houses; www.meisterhaeuser. the birthplace of the until the junction with the B6. de; Ebertallee 63, 65-67, 69-71; German Avenues Bauhaus movement, but Follow the B6 for 20km, to admission to all houses adult/ is also famed for the Quedlinburg. o concession €7.50/5.50, tours Route Road...... 5–7 Days 285 8 Gartenreich Dessau- NORTHEASTERN GERMANY €11.50/8.50; h11am-6pm Tue- Wörlitz, one of the finest TRIP HIGHLIGHT Sun, tours 12.30pm & 3.30pm garden ensembles in On this magic loop through the diverse natural beauty of the ancient states daily, also 1.30pm Sat & Sun) 2 Quedlinburg Germany. Begin at the where the Bauhaus’ lead- of Saxony-Anhalt, Lower Saxony, Thuringia and Saxony, you’ll fall in love with main Bauhaus sites, the Situated on a fertile plain ing lights lived. Juxtapose Bauhausgebäude (Bauhaus at the northern cusp of the eye-catching villages of Quedlinburg and Goslar, perhaps take a steam these with the 112-hectare Building; %0340-650 8250; the Harz Mountains, Wörlitz Park & Schloss train to the top of a mountain, see where Bach was born and Goethe died, www.bauhaus-dessau.de; Gro- little Quedlinburg, a Wörlitz (%039404-310 09; keep watch from the Wartburg and ponder the histories written upon the piusallee 38; exhibition adult/ Unesco World Heritage www.woerlitz-information.de; town, is one of the loveli- 8 concession €7.50/4.50, tour culture-laden cities of Erfurt, Weimar, Dresden and Leipzig. Förstergasse 26, Wörlitz; palace Ge R m A n Avenue S Rou T e €5; h10am-6pm, tours 11am est in the region. Learn tours €5; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, #\ about its centuries-old The Swiss #] 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) , half-timbered (Fachwerk) pinnacle of the Garden houses (there are 1400 Realm, 20km east of or so) in the Fachwerk- 0¸ /· B B182 A9 town on the L133, before museum im Ständerbau ode E #\ Lübben /·B81 lb returning to Dessau- % w e Lutherstadt ( 03946-3828; Wordgasse #\ Alfeld Goslar le Dessau- /·B6 Halberstadt a Wittenberg Rosslau and heading 3; adult/concession €3/2; Alps...... 7 Days 365 #\ a Rosslau #\ #4 Wernigerode #\ Stassfurt S % #\ J Dessau- #\ southwest on the B185 for #\ h10am-5pm Fri-Wed), and #\ #1 Wörlitzer S /·B87 R #3 c # /·B6 0¸ Elbauen h 11km, for a peek at petite Brocken #\ B185 w wander freely around its 2 #\ (1141m) # #\ E a l r Schloss & Park Mosigkau b z enchanting cobblestone #\ Aschersleben Köthen e e Osterode Quedlinburg E Harz NP l (%039404-521 139; www. Wolfen s #\ am Harz t streets and spectacular #\ e /·A9 Torgau r gartenreich.com; Knobelsdorf- Lutherstadt #\ #\ medieval marketplace, /·A14 Eisleben M /·B2 fallee 3, Dessau-Rosslau; palace Göttingen #\ u where you’ll find a l #] Nordhausen eida d W e admission €7.50; h #\ #] 11am-6pm wonderful mix of original /·A13 /·A38 Halle Wurzen Wed-Sun May-Sep, 11am-7pm options for wining, #H #\ S /· /·A38 #^14 B6 #\ Sat & Sun Apr & Oct), a ‘minia- W p108 a # Riesa dining and resting your FG10 eine a L l e e Leipzig #\ rr ture Sanssouci’. a /·B4 #\ Oschatz /·B6 Meissen #\ Freyburg /·A14 #] Grimma #\ #\ n #5 Mühlhausen /·B87 e E b l Dresden #\ #\ #\ Döbeln be a Naumburg r /·A4 1^#3 LINK 0¸ g # L1016 lo 4 /·B7 /· F FG YOUR /·B88 A9 I# Fu Hainich NP Weimar l Erfurt Altenburg #\ /·A72 Freiberg p118 TRIP da #\ #\ Gotha ^# /·B7 #9 #\ #\ Eisenach#6 #] #8 /· Bad #1#]0 Jena A4 #] Highlights of German Fairy Tale Hersfeld /·A7 #] #] #\ #12 /·B19 /· Gera 4 Saxony a Road 0¸L1026 B88 Chemnitz Teplice Pick up this scenic jaunt From Schmalkalden, head Zwickau #] #\ ##\7 Annaberg in Dresden to immerse southwest for 110km to Schmalkalden 1#\1 Buchholz # #\ #\ yourself in Saxony’s Steinau to link up with this #] Suhl Most Saalfeld #\ Fulda Meiningen #\ rich history and diverse whimsical journey. #\ Plauen #\ #\ architecture. Chomutov Eisfeld Oh re 10 #\ FG W e rra re #\ Karlovy h Sonneberg #\ O e# 0 50 km Vary 103 0 25 miles Hof #\ #\ #\

ANGELO CAVALLI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Zermatt The Matterhorn’s majestic peak rises in the distance

The Swiss Alps 32

From Arosa to Zermatt, this zigzagging trip is the A to Z of Switzerland’s astounding Alpine scenery, with majestic peaks, formidable panoramas, cable-car rides and local charm.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS 612 KM / 382 MILES 77 km 612 km Vals GREAT FOR… Zermatt A modern architectural Switzerland's Alpine jewel embellishes this heart beats remote spa town JG strongest here BEST TIME TO GO This trip can be done year-round, although certain mountain # a Aros passes may be closed lL to vehicular traffic. 2 Grindelwald # # # Andermatt R m) ESSENTIAL Schilthorn (2970 I PHOTO #11 The magical Matterhorn is the ultimate mountain photo op.

#12 BEST FOR mK K OUTDOORS Aletsch Glacier Whatever the season, A mesmerising marvel, viewed from on-high the Alps offer activities galore. 538 km 365

5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Born and raised in Ryan Ver Berkmoes Ryan once lived in Germany. Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, He spent three years in Frankfurt, during which time Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and he edited a magazine until he got a chance for a new back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has career with... Lonely Planet. One of his first jobs was written about her native land for two decades and working on LP’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked authored or contributed to some 80 Lonely Planet fish, which serves him well in the north, and he loves titles, including all editions of the Germany country beer, which serves him well everywhere in Germany. guide and the Berlin city guide. Andrea discovered Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb. her love for road trips while living in California for nearly 20 years and now puts pedal to the metal Read more about Ryan at: https://auth. crisscrossing Europe from her home base in Berlin. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb

Read more about Andrea at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andreaschultepeevers

Benedict Walker Benedict got his driving licence a little later than most and made up for lost time fast: he’s at his happiest behind the wheel on a country road, music blaring. Having lost a few years buzzing around the backroads of Australia, NZ, Japan, Canada and the US, he found it was an honour to get back to Germany’s jaw-dropping history, culture and verdant nature.

My Favourite Trip 8 German Avenues Route I love how much this trip packs in without being exhausting, just a hop-skip-and-a-jump from the headiness of Berlin.

414 Marc Di Duca A well-established travel guide author, Catherine Le Nevez Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in Marc has explored many corners of Germany over when she first roadtripped across Europe – including the last 25 years but it’s to the quirky variety and Germany and Austria – aged four, and she’s been friendliness of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. roadtripping here ever since, completing her Doctorate When not hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional or brewery hopping in Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and , he can be found in Sandwich, Kent, where Publishing along the way. A freelance writer for he lives with his wife, Tanya, and their two sons. decades, over the last dozen-or-so years she has written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles Read more about Marc at: https://auth. covering destinations all over Europe and beyond. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu My Favourite Trip d Moselle Valley This is Germany at its most magical: hilltop castles, half- timbered villages, vineyards in every direction, and truly exceptional wines.

Read more about Catherine at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez

Tom Masters Tom hails from London, but has lived Sally O’Brien Australian-born Sally, a Lonely Planet in Berlin since 2009 and has travelled widely all over writer since 2001, has called Switzerland home since Germany in that time. During research for this book, 2007. Swapping her surfboard for a snowboard, the he particularly enjoyed his time discovering Leipzig’s beach for the lake and the BBQ for the caquelon, she secret life beyond the , walking in Saxon loves exploring Switzerland’s charming cities, the Switzerland, the gorgeousness that is Görlitz and sublime Alps and lakes, and catching cable cars and getting to know Dresden. More of Tom’s work can be trains to stunning vantage points. It’s only fitting that found online at www.tommasters.net. she became a naturalised Swiss citizen while on the road for this guide. She lives with her husband, Denis, Read more about Tom at: https://auth. and their sons in the Lake Geneva region. Sally tweets lonelyplanet.com/profiles/tommasters @swissingaround.

Read more about Sally at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/swissingaround

415 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Nicola Williams Border hopping is a way for life for Kerry Christiani Having lived for six years in the British writer Nicola Williams, who lives on Lake Geneva’s Black Forest, Kerry returned to this neck of the woods southern shore. Every journey from her lakeside home (her second home) to write her chapters. Summer begins with a boat ride across Europe’s largest lake hikes in the forest, bike rides on Lake Constance and or a drive around its vine-stitched shore. When not going on the trail of Mozart and Maria in Salzburg kept road-tripping for work, she can be found motoring with her busy for this edition. She tweets @kerrychristiani her trio of trilingual kids to Germany to visit family in and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com. Cologne (and celebrate Karneval), to Switzerland to ski beside the Aletsch Glacier, to Austria to hike childhood Read more about Kerri at: https://auth. haunts … Follow her travels at @Tripalong. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/KerryChristiani My Favourite Trip w The Swiss Alps For outdoor action and top of-the-world views.

Read more about Nicola at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/NicolaWilliams

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Published by Lonely Planet Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the Publications Pty Ltd US Patent and Trademark Office and in ABN 36 005 607 983 other countries. Lonely Planet does not 1st edition – Feb 2016 allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as ISBN 978 1 74360 695 7 retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please © Lonely Planet 2016 let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet. Photographs © as indicated 2016 com/ip. Paper in this book is certified against the 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely socially beneficial and economically viable All rights reserved. No part of this Planet have taken all reasonable management of the world’s forests. publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in care in preparing this book, we make any form by any means, electronic, no warranty about the accuracy or mechanical, recording or otherwise, except completeness of its content and, to brief extracts for the purpose of review, the maximum extent permitted, dis- and no part of this publication may be sold claim all liability arising from its use. or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the ABC D EGF H J KLM

Legend 0100 km e# 050miles Tollway/Freeway Primary Rd Malmö SWEDEN 1 Water Feature Esbjerg 1 Highlight Odense 1 Start Point of Each Trip DENMARK Our Favourite Trips

Elevation

2 NORTH SEE 2 5000m Flensburg 3000m 2000m German Avenues German Fairy Tale 1500m Route 5–7 Days Road 5 Days 1000m Husum Start/End: Dessau-Rosslau (G6) Prerow Start: Hanau (D8) End: Bremerhaven (D4) 500m Binz Kiel Ahrenshoop 300m This quintessential German road trip, Stralsund Göhren You’ll certainly end this trip happy, 200m along the tree-lined avenues of the FG1 having explored a beautiful swath of 100m Warnemünde Harz Mountains and country highways FG9 Peenemünde Germany and learned the real stories 0m Kühlungsborn behind Brothers Grimm fairy tales. 3 of central Germany, leaves no stone Greifswald 3 Bad Rostock unturned. Travemünde Doberan FG3 Lübeck FG1 Wismar Güstrow Anklam

Norddeich Schwerin Jever Bremerhaven 9 FG Wilmhelmshaven Hamburg Waren Neubrandenburg Szczecin

Leeuwarden Emden 4 Groningen FG3 Mritz 4 FG10 Lüneburg Oldenburg Bremen POLAND NETHERLANDS We se r Romantic Rhine 5–7 Days German Castle Road 7 Days Start: Düsseldorf (C7)IJsselmeer End: Mainz (D9) Start: Mannheim (D9) End: Bayreuth (G9) Celle Watch epic scenery unfold as e 5 E On this trip you’ll follow a ribbon of 5 lb ms BERLIN Germany’s Romantic Rhine valley E fairy-tale castles that winds its way Steinhuder Wolfsburg carves between towering cliffs clad Meer Potsdam across Germany’s south, along with in forest and capped by castles, to Hanover the wonderful historic towns that host Enschede Osnabruck Braunschweig delightful Mainz. Minden them. Hildesheim FG2 6 Bielefeld FG Münster FG2 Salzgitter Magdeburg Nijmegen Lutherstadt R Alfeld Wittenberg 6 h Halberstadt Dessau- 6 in e Rosslau Paderborn FG10 Brocken Cottbus (1141m) FG8 Gelsenkirchen FG11 Duisburg Dortmund Göttingen Krefeld Wuppertal Hoyerswerda Düsseldorf Halle Kassel Leipzig FG4 Solingen Ludenscheid Kellerwald- Freyburg 4 5 Moritzburg FG7 FG 7 FG12 Edersee FG FG5 7 11 National Park Gedenkstätte Görlitz FG Bergisch FG8 Buchenwald 2 FG Pillnitz Cologne Gladbach Kellerwald Gotha Erfurt Vaalserberg Siegen National Park 8 Dresden (321m) Düren Eisenach Weimar Jena Gera FG Aachen Bad Mühlburg Schandau Bonn Chemnitz The Romantic Road 10 Days Signal de Zwickau Giessen Botrange Hohe Acht Start: Würzburg (E9) End: Neuschwan- (694m) (747m) Suhl Wetzlar stein & Hohenschwangau Castles (F12) 8 On this trip you’ll experience medieval 8 Buurgplaatz Koblenz (559m) walled towns, gabled townhouses and cobbled squares, all preserved as if time Frankfurt has come to a standstill. Wiesbaden FG10 Hanau PRAGUE M FG16 ai FG12 Schweinfurt n Mainz 13 CZECH REPUBLIC FG Bayreuth Darmstadt Würzburg Bamberg Trier Bockenheim Plzeň 9 an der FG15 9 Weinstrasse Weiden

Kaiserslautern Mannheim Erlangen FG17 FG7 16 Saarbrücken FG FG21 Wiesloch Rötz 16 Schweigen- FG Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days Rechtenbach Karlsruhe FG18 Start: Salzburg (H1) End: Bregenz (E12) 10 Regensberg 10 FRANCE Pforzheim This trip takes you on a wild roller- Regen coaster drive over three legendary Alpine Baden- Stuttgart D on Grafenau Baden Ingolstadt au passes and packs in outdoor activities ( Da from skiing to windsurfing and white- FG22 nu Strasbourg be) Passau water rafting. Kniebis Tübingen M o Freudenstadt Landshut Donau (Da s nube) e Freising l l n Gengenbach Ulm 23 e i FG e Augsburg Linz h VIENNA BRATISLAVA R Pöchlarn 11 Traun 11 Colmar e) ub FG26 Freiburg an (D Munich nau Steyr Do Ammersee Neusiedler Landsberg Gmunden See am Lech Attersee Mulhouse Feldberg Starnberger Chiemsee Salzburg (1493m) Traunsee Bodensee See The Swiss Alps 7 Days Stein am Rhein Konstanz FG27 20 FG19 FG Lindau FG24 Salzkammergut Start: Arosa (E13) End: Zermatt (C14) Kreuzlingen FG17 Basel FG19 19 12 Winterthur FG Königssee 12 This zigzagging trip is the A to Z 29 Neuschwanstein & FG25 Hallstatt FGFG20 Bregenz Hohenschwangau nn of Switzerland’s astounding Alpinebs Zürich #\ Castles I Dou Zürich St Gallen Zugspitze scenery, with majestic peaks, formid- FG31 See FG25 (2963m) Innsbruck able panoramas, cable-car rides and Ligerz FG29 #\ FG24 local charm. Mur Bieler See Graz 26 Lucerne Zuger 28 FG Bern See Rennweg FG Schwyz FG24 Grossglockner Neuchatel (3798m) FG31 Stanserhorn Chur Brienzer hein FG33 Lienz 13 See R Arosa 13 D Interlaken FG28 ra Laussane FG32 u Klagenfurt Gruyères Finsteraarhorn Nyon 30 Lake Schilthorn (4274m) FGGeneva (2970m) Bolzano Maribor FG31 Thonon- FG33 les-Bains in Rhe Triglav Geneva Chiavenna (2864m) Locarno ITALY FG32 Martigny SLOVENIA Zermatt Lago di Lago 14 Chamonix 14 Lago Lugano - di Como Maggiore Ceresio Matterhorn Monte Rosa Varese Mt Blanc (3883m) (4634m) (4807m) Como German Alpine Road 7 Days Start: Lindau (E12) End: Königssee (H12)

Biella Lago di This exciting drive winds through the Garda foothills of the Bavarian Alps, taking in romantic castles, lakes of drinkable 15 pure water and high peaks whose 15 Adriatic Sea mantle of snow remains year-round.

ABCDEGF H JK LM ABC D EGF H J KLM

Legend 0100 km e# 050miles Tollway/Freeway Primary Rd Malmö SWEDEN 1 Water Feature Esbjerg 1 Highlight Odense 1 Start Point of Each Trip DENMARK Our Favourite Trips

Elevation

2 NORTH SEE Baltic Sea 2 5000m Flensburg 3000m 2000m 1500m 1000m Husum Prerow 500m Binz Kiel Ahrenshoop 300m Stralsund Göhren 200m FG1 100m Warnemünde 9 Peenemünde 0m FG Kühlungsborn 3 Greifswald 3 Bad Rostock Travemünde Doberan FG3 Lübeck 1 FG Güstrow Northern Switzerland Wismar Anklam Trip numbers reflect book order; 1 HIGHLIGHTS GERMANY, AUSTRIA & SWITZERLAND’S BEST TRIPS 1 9 f n t colours indicate chapter region. Norddeich Schwerin Top Sights Jever Bremerhaven 9 FG Wilmhelmshaven Hamburg Waren Berlin H5 Zürich D12 Neubrandenburg Szczecin It oozes glamour and grit, teems with top This German-speaking Swiss city is a Leeuwarden Groningen Emden Mritz 1 Along the Baltic Coast 5 Days c Romantic Rhine 5–7 Days n Along the Danube 2–4 Days 4 FG3 museums and world-famous landmarks hipster delight with a quaint , 4 FG10 that have to be seen. If you love great great art and shopping, waterfront bars Start: Lübeck (F3) End: Binz (H3) Start: Düsseldorf (C7) End: Mainz (D9) Start: Passau (H11) End: Vienna (L11) Lüneburg Oldenburg nightlife, you might dump the car and and dancing till dawn in Züri-West. From Lübeck to Rügen Island, celebrate Fall under the spell of the castle-lined Follow the Danube River as it flows Bremen never leave. POLAND the bracing, beautiful Baltic. riverscape along the world-famous Rhine. through forests and vineyards. NETHERLANDS We se r 2 Design for Life: d Moselle Valley 2–4 Days o Visit Berlin on Trip 6 Visit Zürich on Trip v Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days Start: Trier (B9) End: Koblenz (C8) IJsselmeer Bauhaus to VW 2–4 Days Start: Salzburg (H12) End: Bregenz (E12) Wind through the winery-filled Moselle Celle Start: Weimar (F7) End: Hanover (E5) Twist and turn along three of Austria’s e Vienna L11 Salzburg H12 5 E 5

lb from historic Trier to the river’s end. ms BERLIN Drive through the evocative industrial most spectacular mountain passes. E Park up and indulge in pedestrian Mozart’s birthplace is also a baroque Steinhuder Wolfsburg heart of the old East Germany (GDR). Meer Potsdameanderingsm around imperial Habsburg masterpiece and Austria’s spiritual Hanover palaces and castles of unimaginable heartland. The city stands proud on the e German Wine Route 2–4 Days p Tyrol & Vorarlberg 5–7 Days Enschede Osnabruck Braunschweig Minden grandeur. Talk, read, dream and indulge banks of the Salzach River, above which 3 Lakes & Treasures of Start: Schweigen-Rechtenbach (D10) Start: Bregenz (E12) End: Salzburg (H12) Hildesheim like Trotsky and Freud did in a Viennese rise the Altstadt (old town) and clifftop- End: Bockenheim an der Weinstrasse (D9) FG2 6 Mecklenburg–Western Walk through wildflower-filled pastures Bielefeld coffee FGhouse. fortress Festung Hohensalzburg. Münster FG2 Salzgitter Magdeburg Pomerania 2–3 Days Bookended by twin gates, this picturesque and savour local produce on this alpine Nijmegen route links up charming vine-draped route. Lutherstadt Visit Vienna on Trips nr Visit Salzburg on Trips opq Start: Lüneburg (F4) End: Greifswald (H3) R Alfeld Wittenberg villages. 6 h Halberstadt Dessau- 6 in Rosslau Palaces and jewel-box towns dot land e that’s also dotted with lakes. q Castles of Burgenland 2–4 Days Paderborn FG10 Brocken Lake GenevaCo ttbus B14 Dresden H7 (1141m) FG8 f Bergstrasse 2–4 Days Start: Vienna (L11) End: Graz (K13) Gelsenkirchen FG11 East along the shore of Europe’s largest This Saxon city is dubbed ‘Florence on Duisburg Dortmund Start: Darmstadt (D9) End: Wiesloch (D10) Göttingen lake, nothing prepares you for the the Elbe’ for good reason. Reconstructed 4 Highlights of Saxony 5–7 Days Visit castles and palaces along with Krefeld dazzling spectacle of emerald vines architectural jewels pair with stunning Start: Görlitz (J7) End: Leipzig (G7) A diverse route following an old Roman celebrated wineries between Vienna and Wuppertal P U L L- O U T Halle marching uphill from theHoye waterrswerd ina the trade route. Graz. Düsseldorf art collections to justify Dresden’s place Follow one of Germany’s great rivers past Kassel Leipzig FG4 Lavaux wine region. in the pantheon of European cultural Solingen Ludenscheid palaces and fortresses to Dresden. Kellerwald- MAPFreyburg 4 5 Moritzburg FG7 FG capitals. g German Castle Road 7 Days r Salzkammergut 5–7 Days 7 FG12 Edersee FG FG5 7 11 National Park Gedenkstätte Görlitz FG Bergisch FG8 Buchenwald 2 Start: Mannheim (D9) End: Bayreuth (G9) Start/End: Salzburg (H12) FG Visit Lake GenevaPillnitz on Trips 5 Central Germany’s Cologne Gladbach Kellerwald uv Visit Dresden on Trip 4 Gotha Erfurt Castles, palaces and fortresses galore Spin around the Salzkammergut’s jewel- Vaalserberg Siegen National Park 8 Dresden Castles & Palaces 3–5 Days (321m) Düren Eisenach Weimar Jena Gera FG along this route from Mannheim to like lakes beneath towering snow-capped Aachen Bad The Swiss Alps C14 Moselle Valley C8 Start: Leipzig (G7) End: Kassel (E7) Bayreuth. mountains. Bonn Mühlburg Chemnitz Schandau After a relentless succession of dramatic The downstream drive along the Through Germany’s heartland from Signal de Zwickau Giessen green peaks, Alpine lakes, glacial serpentine Moselle River is a go-slow, Leipzig to Kassel, with castles and lavish Botrange Hohe Acht h The Romantic Road 10 Days s Carinthian Lakes 2–4 Days (694m) (747m) Suhl ravines and other hallucinatory natural curvaceous affair with gorgeous castles palaces. Wetzlar landscapes, you finally pull into Zermatt, and storybook half-timbered villages. It’s Start: Würzburg (E9) End: Neuschwanstein & Start: Graz (K13) End: Lienz (H13) 8 8 Buurgplaatz Koblenz built around the iconic Matterhorn. topped by exhilarating walks through 6 Berlin & the Jewels Hohenschwangau Castles (F12) Swim, boat, water ski or just unwind along (559m) Nothing prepares for that first ‘Austria’s Riviera’, the Carinthian Lakes. some of the world’s steepest vineyards. of Eastern Brandenburg 4 Days A ribbon of historical quaintness running Frankfurt unforgettable glance. through Bavaria’s western reaches. Wiesbaden FG10 Visit the Moselle Valley on Trip Start: Berlin (H5) End: Gedenkstätte & Hanau Visit the Swiss Alps onPRAGUE Trips d M FG16 uvw t Northern Switzerland 3 Days ai Museum Sachsenhausen (H5) FG12 Schweinfurt n i Glass Route 7 Days Mainz Start: St Gallen (E12) End: Ligerz (C12) 13 CZECH SchlossREPUBLIC Neuschwanstein F12 Frankfurt D8 A tantalising tour to a watery forest, FG Bayreuth Darmstadt WWII sites and medieval marvels. Start: Passau (H11) End: Weiden (G9) Architectural marvels and epic water Bamberg King Ludwig II’s crazy castle rises Germany’s financial capital brims with Würzburg features colour this oft-overlooked Trier Bockenheim fromPlze Bavaria’sň mysterious forest like a cultural and culinary excitement beneath A glass-themed drive through eastern 9 an der FG15 9 Bavaria’s under-visited and thickly forested northern delight. Weinstrasse Weiden storybook illustration. Inside, the make- a corporate demeanour. Discover its soul 7 Via Regia 5–7 Days HIGHLIGHTS believe continues. Said to have inspired with an espresso in an old-time cafe, border regions. Erlangen Start: Saarbrücken (C10) End: Görlitz (J7) Kaiserslautern Mannheim Walt’s castle at Disney World, it now museum-hop along the riverbank, or wash u Lake Geneva & Western Heidelberg The German portion of the longest historic FG17 inspires tourist masses. FG7 16 Nuremberg down local fare in an old-world tavern. j German Alpine Road 7 Days Switzerland 4 Days Saarbrücken FG FG21 INDEX OF PLACES road link across Europe. Wiesloch Rötz Start: Lindau (E12) End: Königssee (H12) Start: Geneva (B14) End: Gruyères (C13) 16 Visit Schloss Neuschwanstein on Trip h Visit Frankfurt on Trip 7 Schweigen- FG 8 German Avenues Route 5–7 Days Take the high road through Germany’s A glorious lake, stunning vineyards, Rechtenbach Heilbronn slice of Europe’s top peaks. Karlsruhe FG18 Start/End: Dessau-Rosslau (G6) enchanting villages and fairy-tale castles. A Biella Colmar F Graz Regensberg K Landsberg am Moritzburg P Schweinfurt U Zürich See 10 C15 C11 K13 H7 D1210 Follow one of Germany’s most picturesque, FRANCE Pforzheim k Binz H3 Cologne C7 Greifswald H3 Regen Lech F11 Moselle B11 E9 Zwickau G8 tree-lined driving routes, which includes Lake Constance 7 Days v Geneva to Zürich 7 Days Baden-Aachen B7 Stuttgart Feldberg D Kaiserslau- Paderborn D6 Ulm E11 on Grafenau Dresden and Leipzig. Start: Lindau (E12) End: Bregenz (E12) Start: Geneva (B14) End: Zürich (D12) Baden Bockenheim Como D14 In(1493m)golstadt Groningen C4 autern Landshut G11 Mritz G4 Schwerin G4 Adriatic Sea C11 (D C9 Passau H11 A circular tri-state route around one of a V Mountains, pastures, lakes and small- FG22 an der Wein- nu Laussane B13 Schwyz D13 Strasbourg Cottbus J6 Finste- Grossglock- Karlsruhebe) Passau Mt Blanc 9 North Sea Coast 5–7 Days Europe’s most attractive lakes. town charm, book-ended by Switzerland’s Kniebis H15Tübingen D10 Peenemünde M strasse D9 biggest cities. Freudenstadt raarhorn ner (3798m) Leeuwarden (4807m) Siegen D7 Vaalserberg Start: Emden (C4) End: Sylt (D2) o Ahrenshoop Landshut Kassel Donau (Danube) s E7 H3 e D Freising l l Fantastic Road 4–6 Days l n Gengenbach BodenseeUlm 23 (321m) B7 A summer jaunt from Emden along the e i (4274m) H13 B4 FG B14 Signal de e G3 Augsburg Kellerwald Linz Pforzheim h D10 VIENNA BRATISLAVA Wattenmeer coast to Sylt. Start/End: Heidelberg (D9) w The Swiss Alps 7 Days 11 R D12 Darmstadt D9 D13 Gruyères C13 Leipzig G7 Mühlburg F7Pöchlarn Botrange Varese D14 11 Alfeld E6 National Traun Pillnitz J7 Fascinating ring through Baden- Start: Arosa (E13) End: Zermatt (C14) Colmar e) 26 ub Bonn C8 Dessau- Flensburg E2 Güstrow Lienz Mulhouse (694m) B8FG Vienna L11 a German Fairy Tale Road 5 Days Württemberg running through a chunk of Freiburg Ammerseean G3 Park E7 H13 C12 The greatest of the great outdoors: perfect (D Munich Plzeň H9 nau Bratislava L11 Rosslau G6 Frankfurt Steyr Solingen C7 Start: Hanau (D8) End: Bremerhaven (D4) the Black Forest. peaks, gorgeous glaciers, verdant valleys. F11Do Ammersee D8 Kellerwald- Ligerz C12 Munich G11 Neusiedler Landsberg H Gmunden Pöchlarn K11 WSee Braunschweig Donauam Lech Freiburg Edersee Attersee St Gallen E12 Learn the fantasies and the horrors in the Mulhouse Feldberg Anklam H3 Starnberger C11 Chiemsee Salzburg LindauTr E12aunsee Münster C6 (1493m) See stories of the Brothers Grimm. m Schwarzwaldhoch- x Graubünden & Ticino 5 Days BodenseeF6 (Danube) Halberstadt National Potsdam H5 Waren H4 Stein am Rhein Konstanz Freising G11 27 Stanserhorn Arosa E13 19 FG Linz J11 Mur J13 strasse 2–4 Days Start: Chur (E13) End: St Gotthard Pass (D14) 20 D12-G10- F6 FG 24 FGBregenzLindau E12 Park FGD7 Salzkammergut Prague J9 D13 Warnemünde b Cologne & the Ruhr Kreuzlingen FG17 Freudenstadt Locarno D14 Start: Baden-Baden (D10) Big-sky wilderness, off-the-beaten-track Basel Attersee H12 FG19 K11 19 N 12 Winterthur FG Halle G7 25 KielKönigsse F3 e Prerow G3 G3 12 Valley 4 Days End: Freudenstadt (D11) beauty, pretty towns and unique local FG29Bremen20 Br E4egenz Neuschwanstein &D11 FG Hallstatt Starnberger Augsburg FG Hohenschwangau n Lübeck F3 F11 #\ Dortmund C6 In Start: Cologne (C7) End: Paderborn (D6) flavours. bs Zürich Castles Hallstatt H12 Klagenfurt Neubranden- See F12 Weiden G9 High-altitude motoring through the Dou Zürich St Gallen Bremerhaven ZugspitzeFreyburg G7 J13 R See FG25 (2963m) Innsbruck Lucerne D13 From Romans to titans, iron to culture, magnificent landscapes of the Black Forest. FG31B Doubs B12 Hamburg E4 Stein am Weimar F7 Ligerz FG29 D4 Kniebis D11 burg H4 this drive is about power. #\ FG24 Drau G Ludenscheid r Regen H10 Bieler See Brienzer See H13 Hanau D8 Mu Graz Rhein D12 Weser E5 Zuger Koblenz C8 Neuchatel FG26 Bern Lucerne C7 FG28Regensberg See Schwyz Dresden H7 Gedenkstätte Rennweg G3 C13 FG24 Hanover E5GrossglockneKönigsseer H12 B13 Steinhuder Wetzlar D8 Neuchatel (3798m) Lüneburg F4 G10 Stanserhorn Duisburg C6 Buchenwald Meer E5 FG31 Bad BrockenChur Heidelberg D9 Konstanz D12 Neuschwan- Wiesbaden D8 Brienzer Rhein FG33 Lienz Lutherstadt Rennweg H13 13 See (1141m)Arosa F6 F7 Steyr J11 13 Schandau J7 Düren B7 Heilbronn D stein & Wiesloch D10 Interlaken E10 KrefeldFG28 C7 Wittenbergra Laussane BuurgplaatzFG32 Gelsenkir- u KlagenHohenfurt - Rhein Stralsund H3 Gruyères FinsteraarhornBaden-Baden Düsseldorf C7 Hildesheim E6 Wilmhelms- Nyon 30 Lake Schilthorn (4274m) chen Kreuzlingen G6 C11-C14-D13 FGGeneva (2970m) (559m) B8 BolzanC6o schwangau Maribor D10 Hohe Acht D12 Strasbourg C11 haven D4 Thonon- E Rhine FG31 FG33 Geneva B14 M Castles F12 B6 les-Bains in Baltic See J2 C (747m) C8 Stuttgart E10 Winterthur Rhe Kühlungsborn Triglav Geneva Chiavenna Eisenach F7 Gengenbach (2864m) Neusiedler Rostock G3 LocaBambergrno F9 ITALYHoyerswerda G3 Magdeburg Suhl F8 D12 FG32 Celle E5 Elbe G5 D11 See L11 Rötz G10 Martigny J7 G6 SLOVENIA Wismar G3 14 Zermatt Basel C12Lago di Lago Szczecin J4 14 Chamonix di ComoChamonix Gera L Nijmegen B6 Lago Lugano - Emden C4 G7 Main MaggioBayreuthre Cere sio Husum E2 F9 S Wolfsburg F5 Matterhorn Monte Rosa G9 B14 Varese Giessen D8 Norddeich C4 T Mt Blanc (3883m) (4634m) Ems C5 Lago di Como Mainz D9 Wuppertal (4807m) BergischCo mo Chemnitz Saarbrücken C7 H8 Gmunden J12 I D14 North See C2 Thonon-les- Gladbach C7 Enschede C5 Malmö H1 C10 Würzburg E9 Chiavenna Göhren H3 IJsselmeer A5 Lago di Garda Nuremberg Bains B13 Berlin H5 Erfurt F7 Mannheim D9 Salzburg Biella E14 Lago di H12 Z Garda Görlitz J7 Ingolstadt F10 F15 F9 Traun J11 Bern C13 Erlangen F9 Maribor K13 Salzgitter Chiemsee Lago di Luga- Nyon B13 F6 Esbjerg D1 Gotha F7 Inn G12 Traunsee H12 Zermatt C14 15 Bielefeld D6 G12 no -Ceresio Martigny C14 Salzkammer- 15 Göttingen E7 Innsbruck F12 Adriatic Sea O Travemünde F3 Zuger See D13 Bieler See Chur E13 D14 Matterhorn gut J12 Grafenau H10 Interlaken C13 Trier B9 Zugspitze C13 Lago Mag- (3883m) C14 Odense F1 Schilthorn Triglav (2963m) ABCDEGF J giore D15H Minden E5 JKOldenburg D4 (2970m) C13 LM (2864m) J14 F12 lonelyplanet.com Lake Geneva Monte Rosa Osnabruck D5 Schweigen- Images by Lisa Kimberly, Paul Biris, Jan Greune, Panoramic Images, Peter Adams, Jena G7 Rechten- Tübingen D11 Zürich D12 sboriso, Ursula Sander, Westend61, Karl Thomas, Manfred Gottschalk, B14 (4634m) L. Toshio Kishiyama/Getty Images © Tawanlubfah , Pecold/shutterstock ©, Jever C4 C14 bach D10 Matt Munro/Lonely Planet © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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