Needlework Accessories Novelty and Figural Needlework Tools by Sylvie Collett

he Victorian obsession with creating novelties from everyday objects was Tgiven full rein with needlework tools. The huge range of designs was applied to most types of tools, etuis and workboxes. Materials of every kind were used from brass and wood to silver and ivory. Celluloid was commonly used from the late nineteenth century and plastic pieces were produced through the twentieth century to the present day. Figural and novelty sewing tools were not just made in Britain but all across Europe, America and Asia, although Chinese and Japanese tools were mainly for the export market. Above and Below. Shoe , hand made ones dating from around 1800 to late Victorian, a silver Household objects like tables, chairs, coffee grinders, irons, Edwardian one and pearl knitting needle ends bellows, kettles, saucepans, books, baby cradles, clocks and fashioned as little boots. Prices from £100-£250. baskets were frequently used as the design for tape measures, pincushions and holders. Needle packet holders were very often made to resemble knife boxes and needle cases were modelled as parasols and umbrellas. The silver basket pincushions were first made in the 1830s-40s by Joseph Taylor and are often unmarked although sometimes you may find a small ‘IT’ (his mark) under the handle. These were originally part of a larger fitted sewing set but often these get broken up over time and the pieces sold individually. baskets were also produced in the early twentieth century by several makers. You should expect to pay between £100-£200 for these baskets depending on age, condition and design. Not just household items, but gardening themes were used and wheelbarrow pincushions date from the Georgian period and throughout the nineteenth century. Early painted whitewood Tunbridge ware workboxes, tape measures, thimble holders and sewing clamps were frequently made as beehives and cottages. Fruit, vegetables and flowers were also used as models for sewing tools. One of the most popular is the ivory needlecase in the form of a pea pod. Others include strawberry and tomato emeries and tape measures in the shape of a flower head. Musical instruments were copied too and sewing sets are sometimes found in boxes shaped like spinets or grand pianos, harps, lyres and violins. The piano boxes sold in the Palais Royal in Paris are very collectable but becoming hard to find in good condition, particu- larly if complete with all the fittings. Pincushions and tape measures are also found in the form of musical instruments. Personal items such as pocket watches, shoes, boots and hats were also used as the inspiration for needle holders, pincushions Silver basket pincushions. The one in the centre is Edwardian but the other two are early nineteenth century. Cost is between £90-£200 depending on and thimble holders. Some of these, like the beaded pocket watch age/rarity/condition. needle holder date to the late Georgian period but most items are Victorian and Edwardian. Earlier pieces are often hand made and the stitching is minute. Some, like the pocket watch will cost around £200 but the little baby boot could be as little as £25. Animals and birds were favourite models for pincushions, scissor handles, tape measures and needlecases. The silver animal pincushions are very collectable, from the most common - pigs, swans, elephants and chicks, costing between £100 to £300 - to the more rare (and vastly more expensive) bulldogs, pheasants, camels, crocodiles and bulls which can cost up to £800 plus. In fact, most animals were used as models for pincushions. These were not only made in silver but base metal, brass and silver plated examples are to be found. Sometimes the animal pincushion will be pulling a little Mother of Pearl cart which would hold a thimble. Wheelbarrow pincushions dating from the early nineteenth century, prices Fishes were seemingly irresistible to the Victorians and needle- from £50-£100. cases, scissor handles and pincushions were all made in this form. ANTIQUES INFO - September/October 10 Needlework Accessories Shells too were popular, and many different sewing tools were made using real sea shells. Two halves of the shell could be used to make a pincushion with velvet covered wadding sandwiched in the middle. The handles were often formed as hares, storks, foxes, swans and dolphins and a variety of materials were used including silver and Mother of Pearl. The stork scissors are seen everywhere and range in date from the early to mid nineteenth century through to the present day. Consequently they are difficult to date accurately although the very modern ones are more obvious. Even early examples are fairly inexpensive, only costing a few pounds. However, condition is important and a A jockey cap cushion and a velvet hat pin keep containing a thimble. Both good pair that still well will cost a bit more. The exquisite Victorian. French Palais Royal scissors have Mother of Pearl handles often carved as mythical creatures like those in the photograph. Scissors of this type can cost between £200-£350 depending on the subject and condition. People were also used as models for sewing tools, the finest being the superbly carved Dieppe ivory fisher folk needlecases. They come in a variety of sizes and are usually in pairs of male and female. Silver needlecases and pincushions are also found in many different figural forms. Prices for these silver and ivory people needlecases range from £150-£500 depending on rarity and condition. Tape measures from the early to mid twentieth century were modelled as human heads, some of them famous people of the time like Winston Churchill and King Edward V111. Transport and buildings in various forms was another popular theme and tape measures were modelled as ships, a Coronation coach, churches and Edwardian silver animal pincushions. cottages. One of the most famous makers of silver novelty items was Samson Mordan and Co., and many needlework tools can be attributed to this company, including the wonderful little suitcase etui. It contains a , needlecase and a spool for . Due to the popularity of this maker’s items prices carry a premium. Other well known silversmiths who made figural and novelty items were Adie & Lovekin and Levi & Salaman. Other forms such as eggs and acorns are often in ivory, bone, corozo nut (vegetable ivory), Mother of Pearl, brass, wood and silver. These usually hold but are often miniature sewing kits containing needles and tiny thread spools as well. The greatest use of brass as a medium was the novelty needle packet holders made by Avery. These come in a huge variety of designs including butterflies, hedgehogs, shells, wheelbarrows, flowers, postal weights and buildings. They are extremely Mother of Pearl fish pin keep. French mid nineteenth century. collectable and the prices reflect this. They are relatively easy to date as they have the Registration Number impressed on them and are well documented. Plastic and metal sewing kits were made during the twentieth century in huge quantities and in numerous designs ranging from toadstools to spark plugs. These are generally inexpensive with prices from only a few pounds. As with many areas of collecting, the costliest items are being reproduced or copied in cheaper materials. Many of these which were originally made in ivory are copied in resin and are sold legally and openly as reproductions. Unfortunately once sold, they can be wrongly labelled as ivory and resold to unsuspecting collectors. Similarly, silver ‘people’ needlecases have been repro- duced and I have seen these offered for sale by non-specialist dealers as the real thing. They are usually lighter in weight and Coffee grinder tape measure. Price not as crisply detailed as the genuine pieces. £50-£90.

Hand stitched and beaded pocket watch. The are stored around the edge and the back opens to reveal a needle holder.

ANTIQUES INFO - September/October 10 Needlework Accessories Selection of Needlework Tools from our website at: www.antiques-info.co.uk

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1 Palais Royal Mother of Pearl dog needlecase, c1830. Canton ivory work box, carved with Edwardian silver novelty pin cushion, figures at various pursuits, interior Birmingham 1909, modelled as a with fittings and needleworking donkey pulling a mother of pearl accessories incl. three table clamps, cart, 3.25in wide. Hartleys, Ilkley. box 9.5in. Gorringes, Lewes. Sep 07. Mar 09. HP: £440. ABP: £517. HP: £3,800. ABP: £4,469.

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Edwardian novelty silver pin cushion, modelled as a bull, maker’s, Cohen & Charles, Birmingham, 1906, length 2.5in. Gorringes, Lewes. May 10. Tiny silver suitcase etui by Samson Mordan. One of these was sold for £360 at Late 18thC Continental gilt-bronze & HP: £420. ABP: £494. Bonham’s, Knowle, Dec 07 for £360 + premium. Courtesy of Judy Pollitt. mother-of-pearl etui and chatelaine carved/engraved with strapwork & foliage, etui 10cm. Bearne’s, Exeter. Sep 06. HP: £1,300. ABP: £1,529. 3

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Edwardian novelty pin cushion, in Victorian silver chatelaine clasp the form of a motor car, the reverse modelled as a Japanese fan, by John bearing a registration No. by Levi & Pride, London 1890, 5 attachments: Saloman, Birmingham 1909, length a pin cushion, Birmingham 1889, a 2.25in. Hy. Duke & Son, Dorchester. propelling pencil, monogrammed and Aug 06. HP: £1,000. ABP: £1,176. dated 28.3.31, by Sampson Mordan & Co, pair of steel scissors in case, Brass needle packet holders by William Avery date to around 1870. Prices Birmingham, 1889, a tape measure from £150-£800 for very rare examples. a/f and an aide-memoire by John Pride, c1890. Sworders, Stansted Mountfitchet. Nov 05. HP: £340. 4 ABP: £399. 10 Edwardian novelty silver pin cushion, modelled as a standing pug dog, makers, Grey & Co, Birmingham, 1904, 2.75in long. Gorringes, Lewes. Sep 09. HP: £650. ABP: £764. Edwardian silver pin cushion, maker’s mark WJM & Co, Birming- ham 1908, modelled as a golden 5 pheasant, black velvet cushion, on rusticated base, 3.5in long. Hartleys, Edwardian novelty pin cushion Ilkley. Mar 09. HP: £340. ABP: £399. modelled as a polar bear pulling a mother of pearl sleigh, on pierced scroll stretchers, 3.75in long, Birmingham 1909. Hartleys, Ilkley. Dec 06. HP: £560. ABP: £658.

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11 Early 19thC Tunbridge Whitewood Dieppe ivory fisherman needle case. Silver and mother of pearl pin ware table clamp pin cushion, Palais Royal scissors with pearl Similar example sold at Bleasdales, cushion of a goat pulling a cart, decorated with a view of Brighton handles fashioned as mythical Dec 09. £500 hammer price + Chester 1909. Bourne End Auction Pavilion and painted with flowers, creatures. French c1830. premium. Rooms, Bourne End. Oct 07. HP: 7.5in. Gorringes, Lewes. Mar 09. £520. ABP: £611. HP: £340. ABP: £399. ANTIQUES INFO - September/October 10 Needlework Accessories

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Novelty pin cushion, an emu pulling a cart, mother o pearl Edwardian silver novelty pin 19thC French etui, with four cushion, Chester 1910, as a gold implements and a silver bowl, Birmingham 1908, 5in. Seven assorted novelty white Silver novelty pin cushion, as roller skate, 6.75cm long. thimble in oval leather case, George Kidner, Lymington. metal pin cushions modelled a pig, Birmingham 1918, Sworders, Stansted stamped Kirby, Beard & Co Jan 07. HP: £320. ABP: £376. as various animals, fox, cat, 3.5cm high. Charterhouse Mountfitchet. Nov 07. HP: Ltd, 5in Gorringes, Lewes. Apr cow etc. Great Western Auctioneers, Sherborne. Nov £260. ABP: £305. 08. HP: £120. ABP: £141. 13 Auctions, Glasgow. Feb 08. 08. HP: £150. ABP: £176. HP: £190. ABP: £223. 35 30

Edwardian pin cushion 18 modelled as a rabbit, 2in 19thC French carved ivory 24 wide, Birmingham 1906. pin cushion, decorated with Hartleys, Ilkley. Jun 06. HP: Cupid and enclosing a coiled Novelty pin cushion, maker S Victorian silver pin cushion Victorian treen pin cushion, £300. ABP: £352. printed silk list of French Blanckensee & Son Ltd, as a lady’s shoe, indistinct moulded circular form inlaid Saint days for each month of Birmingham 1909, half brogue maker’s mark, Birmingham with geometric in the year, 2.25in. Gorringes, shoe, lace holes, oak base, 1891, 1.9oz, 11cm long. light/dark woods and ivory, Lewes. Oct 09. HP: £260. 5in long. Hartleys, Ilkley. Mar Locke & England, domed red velvet cushion 14 ABP: £305. 10. HP: £190. ABP: £223. Leamington Spa. Mar 09. and moulded base, 4.75in HP: £140. ABP: £164. wide. Hartleys, Ilkley. Feb Edwardian novelty silver pin 07. HP: £110. ABP: £129. cushion, modelled as a fish, with textured scales, maker’s, 19 36 Sampson Mordan & Co, 31 Chester, 1908, 2.25in. Gorringes, Lewes. Sep 09. Edwardian silver duck pin 25 HP: £300. ABP: £352. cushion, 3.75in wide, Birmingham 1905. Hartleys, Silver pin cushion modelled The prices quoted are actual Ilkley. Jun 09. HP: £230. Novelty silver desk stand pin Four various Mauchline ware as a Viking ship by Hamilton Hammer Prices (HP) ABP: £270. cushion, by H J Cooper & Co & Inches, Edinburgh 1929. followed by the Approximate pin cushions with transfers Limited, Birmingham 1910, depicting Dunkeld Cathedral, Great Western Auctions, Buyer’s Price (ABP) which Glasgow. Feb 08. HP: £95. includes an average buyer’s golf bag resting against a tree, 1.5in wide, Skegness, Margate premium of 15% + VAT. 11cm. Sworders, Stansted and St Cross, the Church, ABP: £111. Mountfitchet. Apr 06. HP: and a similar fernware pin 37 £180. ABP: £211. cushion. (5) Hartleys, Ilkley. 20 Aug 06. HP: £130. ABP: £152. 26 32 Victorian treen stained beech Edwardian pin cushion, 15 clamp-on sewing accou- Birmingham 1908, modelled trement, with removable pin as a standing camel, 2.75in cushion top. Dee, Atkinson & wide. Hartleys, Ilkley. Sep Harrison, Driffield. Feb 06. 09. HP: £225. ABP: £264. George V novelty silver pin HP: £90. ABP: £105. cushion, s a swan, maker’s, Victorian tortoiseshell etui, Adie & Lovekin Ltd, Birming- hinged lidded, serpentine 19thC necessaire, hinged lid ham, 1924, 2.75in long. 38 fronted form, lid inset with 21 decorated with a foil backed Gorringes, Lewes. May 10. vacant white metal shield glass panel depicting a view HP: £180. ABP: £211. shaped cartouche, enclosing of Shanklin, Isle of Wight, red velvet lined provision for 27 containing a metalware tape Victorian mahogany pin thimble, scissors and other measure, pin cushion and cushion, waisted oblong form thimble, 6.5cm wide. Locke with ring loop handles, on necessities, 11 x 8.5 x 5.5cm. Early 19thC French gold Locke & England, & England, Leamington Spa. moulded base and bun feet, mounted tortoiseshell etui, Jul 08. HP: £130. ABP: £152. 7.25in wide. Dee, Atkinson & Leamington Spa. Sep 07. with five silver gilt tools, Edwardian novelty silver pin Harrison, Driffield. Nov 07. HP: £300. ABP: £352. 3.75in. Gorringes, Lewes. Feb cushion, as an elephant, HP: £80. ABP: £94. 09. HP: £220. ABP: £258. maker’s, Adie & Lovekin, Birmingham, 1905, 2.25in, 39 22 and one other, marks rubbed, 16 1.75in. Gorringes, Lewes. May 33 10. HP: £180. ABP: £211.

28 Carved bone needlework & Victorian sewing aid/clamp, sewing equipment holder, 19thC lady’s sewing box, red Edwardian novelty silver pin squared form moulded with carved with dragons, myth- leather case, interior with cushion, in the form of a foliage, top modelled as a ical birds, flowers, etc. silver coloured metal mounts hedgehog, maker’s, Levi & bird with spring-clip action chrysanthemum finial & foot incl. thimble, tape measure, Salaman, Birmingham, 1904, German porcelain half doll and pin cushion to back, carving, ivory/bone imple- pin cushion as a basket, length 1.75in. Gorringes, pin cushion, and another 5.5in high, ‘Patent Feb 15 ments for ribbon threading other items. (incomplete) Lewes. May 09. HP: £190. with porcelain legs, 7.5in. 1853’ to wings. Hartleys, etc. Kent Auction Galleries, Charterhouse, Sherborne. Apr ABP: £223. Gorringes, Lewes. Jun 06. Ilkley. Oct 07. HP: £120. Folkestone. Mar 08. HP: 08. HP: £280. ABP: £329. HP: £150. ABP: £176. ABP: £141. £60. ABP: £70. 52 ANTIQUES INFO - September/October 10 Sterling silver pin cushion modelled as a shoe, by Gorham Manufacturing Co, USA. Great Western Auctions, Glasgow. Nov 08. HP: £70. ABP: £82.

Late Victorian chatelaine pin cushion, maker's mark L.E., Birmingham 1898, of oval form, the fascia cast and pierced with a cherub, reverse with a blank open cartouche, on a short hanging chain, 1.25in dia. Hartleys, Ilkley. Mar 10. HP: £60. ABP: £70.

Silver pin cushion, in the form of a boot, Birmingham, c1912. the top fitted with blue velvet pin pad. 7cm long. Rosebery’s, London. Jul 07. HP: £55. ABP: £64.

Collection of six early 20thC pin cushion ladies, with one pair of legs. (7) Dee, Atkinson & Harrison, Driffield. Apr 09. HP: £55. ABP: £64.

2 Pin Cushion dolls, one porcelain, one plastic with sleeping eyes, porcelain head pin doll dressed as Pierrot, various dates & makers, no visible numbers. Kent Auction Galleries, Folkestone. Jan 06. HP: £50. ABP: £58.

Collection of 4 Pin Cushion Dolls, one head etc. various dates & makers, mainly in original costumes, no visible numbers, varying in height from 3 1/2" to 2". Kent Auction Galleries, Folkestone. Jan 06. HP: £45. ABP: £52.

Late Victorian chatelain pin cushion, unmarked, of circular form, fascia stamped with a rococo cartouche, and the reverse as a whorl, on a short hanging chain, 1.25in dia. Hartleys, Ilkley. Mar 10. HP: £40. ABP: £47. Large novelty silver pin cushion in the form of a shoe by Gorham. Wellers Auctioneers, Chertsey. Jun 09. HP: £35. ABP: £41.

Owl pin cushion, small hook & ornate scissors holder, stamped. (gross 1.53oz) (3) A F Brock & Co Ltd, Stockport. Feb 07. HP: £25. ABP: £29.

Bisque head pin cushion doll modelled as a Red Cross nurse, with bisque arms, 7in high. Hartleys, Ilkley. Mar 09. HP: £25. ABP: £29.

Mauchline ware pin cushion, circular form applied with a black and white image of the Market Place, Beverley, 4in dia, with a small box with an applied black and white image of Elsdon Church, 3.25in wide. (2) Dee, Atkinson & Harrison, Driffield. Apr 10. HP: £22. ABP: £25.

Late Victorian chatelain pin cushion, unmarked, of circular form, fascia stamped with a rococo cartouche, and the reverse as a whorl, on a short hanging chain, 1.25in dia. Hartleys, Ilkley. Mar 10. HP: £40. ABP: £47.