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South India & Kerala 10 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd South India & Kerala Maharashtra p82 ^# Mumbai p44 Telangana & Andhra Pradesh p228 Goa p117 Karnataka p170 Andaman Islands p417 Tamil Nadu Kerala p333 p259 Isabella Noble, Michael Benanav, Paul Harding, Kevin Raub, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to South MUMBAI Palolem . 155 India & Kerala . 4 (BOMBAY) . 44 Patnem . 160 South India & Kerala Map . 6 MAHARASHTRA . 82 KARNATAKA . 170 South India & Northern Maharashtra . 84 Bengaluru (Bangalore) . 172 Kerala’s Top 12 . 8 Nashik . 84 Southern Karnataka . 187 Need to Know . 14 Around Nashik . 88 Hesaraghatta . 187 What’s New . 16 Aurangabad . .. 88 Mysuru (Mysore) . 187 If You Like . 17 Ellora . 92 Around Mysuru . 198 Month by Month . 20 Ajanta . 95 Bandipur National Park . 199 Itineraries . 26 Jalgaon . .. 98 Nagarhole Booking Trains . 29 National Park . 200 Nagpur . 98 Yoga, Spas & Kodagu (Coorg) Region . 201 Around Nagpur . .. 100 Spiritual Pursuits . 31 Hassan . 203 Southern Maharashtra . 101 Volunteering . 35 Belur . 204 Konkan Coast . 101 Travel with Children . 37 Halebid . 205 Matheran . 105 Regions at a Glance . 40 Sravanabelagola . 205 Lonavla . 106 Karnataka Coast . 206 Pune . 108 NATALIIA SOKOLOVSKA / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / SOKOLOVSKA NATALIIA Mangaluru (Mangalore) . 206 Around Pune . 113 Dharmasthala . 208 Kolhapur . 114 Udupi . 208 Mahabaleshwar . 115 Malpe . 209 GOA . 117 Gokarna . 209 Panaji & Central Goa . 120 Central Karnataka . 213 Panaji . 120 Hampi . 213 Old Goa . 126 Anegundi . 220 North Goa . 127 Hosapete (Hospet) . 221 Mapusa . 127 Hubballi (Hubli) . 221 VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE (P214), HAMPI, KARNATAKA Candolim . 128 Northern Karnataka . 221 Calangute & Baga . 131 Badami . 221 Anjuna . 135 Around Badami . 223 GUZEL GASHIGULLINA / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / GASHIGULLINA GUZEL Assagao . 139 Vijapura (Bijapur) . .. 224 Vagator & Chapora . 140 Bidar . 227 Morjim . 144 TELANGANA & ANDHRA Asvem . 145 PRADESH . 228 Mandrem . 146 Telangana . 230 Arambol (Harmal) . 147 Hyderabad . 230 South Goa . 150 Bhongir . 248 Margao . 150 Warangal . 248 Colva . 151 Palampet . 248 Benaulim . 152 PALOLEM BEACH (P155), Andhra Pradesh . 249 Agonda . 153 GOA Vijayawada . .249 Contents UNDERSTAND Amaravathi . 251 Kanchipuram . .359 South India Today . 440. Nagarjunakonda . 251 Tiruvannamalai . .. 362 History . 443 Visakhapatnam . .. 252 Puducherry The Way Of Life . 458 Around Visakhapatnam . 255 (Pondicherry) . 364 Spiritual India . 465 Tirumala & Tirupati . 256 Auroville . 373 Delicious India . 472 Around Tirumala Central Tamil Nadu . 374 The Great & Tirupati . 258 Chidambaram . 374 Indian Bazaar . 483 Tharangambadi The Arts . 490 KERALA . 259 (Tranquebar) . 375 Architectural Southern Kerala . 261 Kumbakonam . 376 Splendour . 494 Thiruvananthapuram Thanjavur (Tanjore) . 378 Wildlife & Landscape . 497 (Trivandrum) . 261 Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) . 382 Kovalam . 266 Southern Tamil Nadu . 386 Varkala . 271 Chettinadu . .386 Kollam (Quilon) . 276 Madurai . 389 Around Kollam . 278 Rameswaram . 393 Alappuzha (Alleppey) . 278 SURVIVAL Kanyakumari GUIDE Marari & Kattoor . 283 (Cape Comorin) . 395 Kottayam . 284 The Western Ghats . 398 Kumarakom . 285 Kodaikanal (Kodai) . 399 Scams . 504 Kerala’s Coimbatore . 404 Women & Solo Western Ghats . 286 Travellers . 506 Coonoor . 406 Periyar Tiger Reserve . 287 Directory A-Z . 508 Kotagiri . 407 Munnar . 292 Transport . 521 Ooty Around Munnar . 296 (Udhagamandalam) . 409 Health . .. 530 Central Kerala . 297 Mudumalai Language . 535 Kochi (Cochin) . 297 Tiger Reserve . 414 Index . 547 Around Kochi . 311 Anamalai Tiger Reserve Map Legend . 558 (Indira Gandhi Thrissur (Trichur) . 312 Wildlife Sanctuary & Around Thrissur . 314 National Park) . 415 Northern Kerala . 314 ANDAMAN Kozhikode (Calicut) . 314 ISLANDS . 417 Wayanad Region . 317 SPECIAL FEATURES Port Blair . 421 Kannur & Around . 320 Around Port Blair . 425 Bekal & Around . .. 322 Ancient & Historic Havelock Island Sites colour feature . 162 Lakshadweep . 323 (Swaraj Dweep) . 426 TAMIL NADU . 333 Neil Island Mysuru Palace in 3D . 190 (Shaheed Dweep) . 431 Chennai (Madras) . 335 Middle & North Kerala colour feature . 325 Northern Tamil Nadu . 353 Andaman . 434 East Coast Road . 353 Little Andaman . 436 Delicious India . 472 Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) . 355 PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK BEATEN THE OFF 24 # 0 500 km South India & Kerala: Off the Beaten Track e0 250 miles : : : : : Bhuj •# Gandhinagar MADHYA 4: :4: 4: : 44•# PRADESH TADOBA-ANDHARI TIGER•# LONAR METEORITE •# Bhopal Ranchi Man:dvi •# : : : •#Ahmedabad RESERVE Gulf o:f : : : : : (Amdavad) CRATERIndore Kachchh Rajkot •# This Maharashtrian reserve is one of 444•#44: GU:JARAT Created 50,000 years ago this huge : : : the best places in India for 5 crater in Maharashtra has a shallow : : : wildlife-watching while relaxing in green lake at its base and wilderness Pty Ltd Publications Planet ©Lonely Junagadh •# : : : accommodation ranging from Sa4urashtra 4: :Surat all around. (p99) (Kathiawar homestays to luxury jungle lodges. DUDHSAGAR FALLSPeninsula:) : :•# Raipur•# •# Nagpur (p100) Meaning 'Sea of Milk' Dudhsagar: is : : Goa’s 300m-high, tiered waterfall,Gul f of Ajanta •# 5 Khambhat ë# Bhubaneswar reached by a bumpy, 45-minute 4WD •# TADOBA-ANDHARI CHHATTISGARH ride through stunning jungle scenery. •# #æ 5 Aurangabad TIGER RESERVE (p144) LONAR 5 : METEORITE ODISHA 5 5 Mum:bai•#: CRATER : MAHARASHTRA : : •# Pune •# Nizamabad 5 5 MURUDESHWAR •# Sholapur Warangal •# Bheemunipatnam This beachside pilgrimage town in •# •# TELANGANA Visakhapatnam Karnataka is known for its colossal •#Hyderabad Ratnagiri seashore statue of Lord Shiva •# Ú# GUNTUPALLI overlooking the Arabian Sea. (p211) Nizamabad : : 5: GUNTUPALLI •# •#Vijayawada 5 : A former hilltop Buddhist cave ARABIAN 5 5 5 : : SEA •# monastery in Andhra Pradesh DUDHSAGAR Kurnool Panaji •# (Panjim) •# Ongole 5 especially noteworthy for its caves, FALLS •#Hampi GOA #Y carvings and chaitya-griha (prayer ANDHRA hall; p252) PRADESH Gokarna •# KARNATAKA •# PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK BEATEN THE OFF KARNATAKA •# Nellore •# MURUDESHWAR 5 5 BAY OF Bengaluru 5 BENGAL (Bangalore) 5 Mangaluru •# •# Chennai (Mangalore)•# NE & Mysuru •# VALIYAPARAMBA BACKWATERS •# (Mysore) N & THEJASWINI RIVER •#Puducherry TAMIL (Pondicherry) E K NADU Kozhikode •# Trichy (Calicut) •#Coimbatore (Tiruchirappalli) A •# A PARAMBIKULAM TIGER RESERVE ë# 5 5 5 LAKSHADWEEP Kochi (Cochin) •# SEA 5KERALA 5 5 Alappuzha (Alleppey) •# LP 5 5 5 •# A CKWTES & Kollam (Quilon) •# DHANUSHKODI •# THESWN E Varka5la •# 5 Mayabunder # Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) •# Andaman Islands Kanyakumari Gulf of SRI Mannar LANKA ## Port K Blair PKL TGE COLOMBO #_ ESEE HNSHK R K O MALDIVES T N (p295) (p394) #_ 25 26 Itineraries É •#Munnar Kochi •# (Cochin) É Alappuzha •# (Alleppey) INDIA Matha Amrithanandamayi •# Mission É É Kollam •# (Quilon) •# Thiruvananthapuram G U L F O F Varkala (Trivandrum) M A N N A R É •# •#Kovalam I N D I A N O C E A N 2 WEEKS Classic Kerala With its coconut-palm-fringed beaches and languid backwaters, Kerala can justly claim to be India’s most laid-back state. But there’s plenty of colour and fun to spice up your tropical idyll – lively festivals and snake-boat races, Kathakali dance-dramas, charming colonial-era quarters and a famously flavoursome cuisine. Spend a day visiting the museums and dining well in capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), before making the half-hour hop southeast to beach resort Kovalam. Shift down another gear at nearby Varkala, a holy town with a dizzying clifftop guesthouse-and-restaurant enclave, where you’ll keep active with yoga, SUP or surf- ing. Continue north to Kollam (Quilon) and take the tourist cruise along the canals to Alappuzha (Alleppey) with an overnight stop at the Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission, the ashram of Kerala’s celebrated ‘Hugging Mother’. Reaching Alappuzha (Alleppey), you’re in backwaters central; aboard a houseboat, kayak or canoe, discover what the sublime backwaters are all about. Next, detour east into the tea-coated, very trekkable hills of Munnar. Travel back down to Kochi (Cochin) and take the ferry to the old colonial outpost of Fort Cochin, where seafood barbecues, warm homestays, arty cafes, colonial-era mansions, Kathakali shows and the intriguing Jewish quarter at Mattancherry fill a fascinating few days. 27 INDIA Ajanta Nashik É •# •# •# Ellora PLAN YOUR TRIP Mumbai •# É A R A B I A N S E A Hampi •# •# Goa É IT B AY O F I Mysuru B E N G A L NERAR •# (Mysore) ÷# Wayanad I ES É Wildlife Sanctuary Kochi •# (Cochin) I N D I A N SRI O C E A N MALDIVES LANKA 4 WEEKS Goa, Caves & Cities City lights, historic sites, beachy bliss, jungle adventure and a touch of colonial-era quaintness – this trip will give you a flavour of all that’s fantastic about the south. Begin in cosmopolitan Mumbai, Bollywood’s beating heart and home to some of the nation’s finest spots to shop, eat and drink. Take a sunset stroll along Marine Drive, a curvaceous oceanside promenade dubbed the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ because of its sparkling night lights, finishing with bhelpuri (fried rounds of dough with rice, lentils and chutney) on Chowpatty Beach. Catch a ferry to Elephanta Island from Mumbai’s historic Gateway of India to explore its stunning rock-cut temples and the triple-faced sculpture of Lord Shiva. Next, make your way to the dazzling vineyards of Indian wine country around Nashik, sipping award-winning creations at Grover Zampa
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